If you own a 2001, 2002 or 2003 Toyota RAV4 vehicle and you are having problems with the automatic transmission, which symptoms are harsh shifting, loss of power, launching on second or third gear and/or hard engagement when it is put in reverse, then you should know that those problems are caused by a defective engine computer, which also controls the automatic transmission.

These problems are erratic and may only show at intermittent intervals or when the vehicle is warm or have been driven for a specific time. Sometimes it happens one day and the next morning it does not show.

When the computer (ecm or ecu) is defective, it will be presenting the problems mentioned above and many of those vehicles will also show the trouble codes P0750, P0753, P0755, P0758 and/or P1760.

The defective ecm computer, stops to correctly control the transmission shifting solenoids, activating and deactivating them erratically. This must be repaired before the transmission suffer any of the common damages caused by this problem. Reprogramming or updating the computer software will NOT fix the problem. It must be REPAIRED.

If your RAV4 is presenting loss in power when launching, that is, if you stop in a red light for example and when continuing, your RAV4 moves like it is carrying a very heavy load, that is because the vehicle is staring at second or third gear instead of first gear. That, in no time, will burn the transmission clutches. Please, be aware that if the computer is not repaired and you continue using your RAV4 like this, a transmission repair bill will add to the overall cost at the end.

Most users will do the logical thing to do if the vehicle is out of warranty, which is going to a transmission repair shop. If your transmission have not sustained any damage yet, a transmission repair attempt will not fix the problem.

Toyota issued a bulletin where it is recommending that the ecm computer be replaced by a new one, but since this have affected so many vehicles (more than 240,000 units), Toyota extended their warranty to cover this problem specifically. The new warranty covers up to 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first. This new warranty will cover both the ecm computer and the transmission. If you are having this problem and your RAV4 is less than 150,000 miles, you should first visit your local dealer before bringing your RAV4 to be repaired in any independent repair shop.

REPAIRS

When the computer is send to be repaired, it should be checked, repaired and TESTED. We are highlighting on “testing” the computer, because there are several individuals, offering the repair service and while that is ok, many of them are NOT testing the computer after the “repair” is performed.

We were approached by someone that ordered the service from someone on ebay, and after he received back his ecm, his RAV4 still had the same problems. He told us in his own words;

“They did nothing to it, charged me about $145, plus shipping and did not refunded my money, saying that it must be the transmission and we already changed the transmission”.

Needless to say about the frustration that this customer had about this.

So, about testing the computer, as you may already know, most of these vehicles came with a security system called immobilizer. This system will not allow you to run your RAV4 vehicle with other than your keys, which have a security chip integrated in the black plastic handle of each key. A code for running your vehicle is programmed inside that chip on the key, as well as in the ecm computer. Both codes must matched after a security algorithm is automatically run by the system as soon as you insert any of your keys in the keylock cylinder.

To actually test your ecm computer after been repaired, it must be installed in a test vehicle. In order to run the engine for the tests on the test vehicle, the ecm under test must be prepared with the test vehicle codes. Otherwise it will not run. If it does not run, no test can be done. As simple as that.

Not to mention that if the ecm is successfully programmed to do the test, it must be programmed back to the codes it had before. Otherwise, the ecm will be repaired and tested, but will not run on the owner’s RAV4, because now it has a different immobilizer code.

For a quick and quality repair, where the ecm is checked, repaired and tested you may visit the following website:

RAV4 Repair Service at OtherDeal.com

After your ecm is checked and repaired, it will be prepared with the test vehicle immobilizer code and returned to your vehicle’s code after the test is done. It is achieved by removing the owner’s immobilizer eeprom chip from the ecu circuit and installing ours for testing. After the test is done, the original eeprom is reinstalled.

Your ecm will be in good hands and in no time you will drive a NEW RAV4. For more information, you may visit the website above or send an email to info@otherdeal.com

OTHER RELATED INFORMATION

Pinout of the 2001-2003 Toyota RAV4 ECM is depicted below:

Loaction in the vehicle of the ecm can be seen in the next picture:

Here is a partial schematic of wiring of the solenoids on the RAV4 automatic transmission from the ecm. Note that they are all a total of 10 wires, driving 6 solenoids, 4 of them with two terminals on each one and the other two with only one terminal on each one, with the other terminal of those two coils wired directly to chassis ground.

And here is the terminal connector for those ten wires. This connector is wired to the solenoids assembly. You will see in the picture below the perspectives of each harness connector. Also, the terminals for the SL1, SL2 and S4 solenoids are shown, so electrical resistance tests can be done on their coils. The solenoids resistance in ohms is also shown in the illustration, which are the same for SL1 and SL2, 5.0 – 5.6 ohms and 11 to 15 ohms for S4. Any value out of that range means a defective solenoid. If resistance is ok, then you should proceed to test the solenoids in action by disconnecting the 10 wire terminal and applying voltage from the battery, through a 25watt bulb to the solenoids directly. If a clicking sound is not heard when energized, that is indicative of a defective solenoid too.

Below is the position of the solenoids in the assembly in front of the automatic transmission.

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Quick and easy solution for curing the annoying hesitation, jittering, lag back feeling, stalling or whatever you wish to call it, which happens when you are accelerating your car.

(Note: While this article is dedicated to the Toyota Corolla late models, this will apply to most cars equipped with a MAF or flow meter sensor, either from Toyota or any other brand, like Nissan, Mitsubishi, etc.)

If you own a 2004, 2005, 2006 or 2007 Toyota Corolla and your car hesitates when you accelerate or it hesitates when driving, you should try the solution described here. Below is a list of the behavior your car may show that tells that you should try this procedure before going to a mechanic or repair shop.

• The accelerator is slightly pressed while the car is running and it slightly jitters or hesitates
• After completely stopping the car (a red light for example), it hesitates when you accelerate to continue driving
• Engine power is below the usual level
• Sometimes check engine light turns on

You should know that while those problems can be caused by several issues, including low quality or altered fuel, the most common cause is a dirty MAF flow meter sensor.

The MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow Meter Sensor) is in charge of detecting how much air (in mass, not volume) is coming in to the engine, so the ecm computer can calculate the amount of fuel to be injected.

Some times this sensor gets contaminated by lots of microscopic debris that scape the air filter and accumulate on its sensing parts over time. The resulting effect is that the MAF flow meter sensor gets less “sensible” and detects less air than it is currently entering the engine. The reaction of the ecm computer will be to inject less fuel to keep the air fuel balance, taking as reference the false reading of the MAF flow meter sensor. This will produce a too-lean mixture, which is responsible of the hesitation, the loss in power and the check engine light.

If your car engine, besides the hesitation, is also producing knocking or engine pinging at high loads, like when going up through a hill, it is attributed to this too-lean condition.

Before going to an auto parts store or to a mechanic to fix the problem, you should try fixing it your self. If the problem is a dirty MAF flow meter sensor, the solution is to clean it, plain and simple. That may save you some money that a mechanic will charge for cleaning it (you could do the same) or for replacing the part when most of the times it is not damaged, just dirty or contaminated.

Here are some guidelines to do it by your self. If you do, you will be glad that you saved money and learned how to do it for the next time it happens to you, your family or friends.

First of all, you will only need a #2 Phillips screwdriver (shown in the picture below) for removing just two screws and a spray can of electrical cleaner, specially designed for these jobs. Though I said “specially designed”, don’t worry as it is available on any Auto Zone or similar stores. The brand “CRC” is an excellent one and it is also shown in the picture below (I am not affiliated with CRC or Auto Zone in any way, just sharing my experience).

Now, you will need to locate the MAF flow meter sensor in your Corolla. It is very accessible and no mechanical experience is needed to do this. In the picture below, the location of the MAF flow meter sensor of the 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007 Corolla (1ZZ-FE Engine) is shown. You will find it by opening the hood of your car’s engine compartment and looking at the air intake assembly behind the vehicle’s battery. It is attached in place by just two small Phillips screws. Take the screws out with a #2 Phillips screwdriver, carefully not to drop them off. If they drop, you may end up loosing them and while they can be easily replaced, this will turn from a quick fix to a time wasting ’searching for a similar screws’ job that might involve a trip to the hardware store.

After removing the two screws and putting them in a safe place, now pull out the MAF flow meter sensor. Sometimes it could feel a little bit attached, but if both screws are removed, it will come out.

In the next picture, it is shown the MAF flow meter sensor already pulled out. Now you must disconnect the wiring harness that is attached to it, by pushing a plastic clip located in the plug, while pulling away the plug at the same time. It will easily come out.

With the MAF flow meter sensor already unmounted from your car’s engine, put it in a table over a paper towel or a cloth and with the CRC cleaner, spray directly to the connector harness to clean the contacts from debris and dust. Just spray it with full force for a couple of seconds. You should wear eye protection or be very careful so the spray back does not get in your eyes. Also, since this product is highly flammable, do this away from open flames, heat sources and in a ventilated area.

Now what will really fix the engine hesitation issue; spray with full force inside the MAF flow meter sensor openings for a couple of seconds on each opening. Avoid the straw of the spray can, to get inside the MAF sensor and touch anything inside. After that, repeat one more time and put the MAF sensor upside down, so the excess liquid drips out. Allow enough time for the MAF sensor to be completely dry before reinstalling it in your vehicle. The CRC chemical is designed to dry almost instantly and it does, but spraying for a few seconds over the MAF sensor’s surface, will considerably lower the temperature, causing condensation from the environment moisture. Just allow it to dry completely before putting it back in the engine. A good trick is, if the engine is warm by chance (you drove the car before doing this job), just put the MAF sensor on top of the plastic cover of the engine for at least 15 minutes and it will dry completely.

IMPORTANT! One final note. Please only use the chemical (spray) described here or one that is for similar purposes and (1) will not harm polymers (plastics), (2) will not harm electrical connections (not acidic) and (3) most important, will not leave any residue when it vaporizes. Cleaners that contain lubricants, like WD-40 for example, may not be used for this job. Any residue left inside the MAF sensor will damage the part. This job is about removing contaminants, not replacing them with some other substance.

That’s it!    Enjoy your new-again Corolla!

Thanks for reading!

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This covers the Honda JDM “P72“, “P30” and “P08“.

Installing a performance chip on 1992-1995 Honda JDM computers uses the same method as described on other posts on this website. You may use the search function above for those other publications. What differentiate the installation on JDM ecus from USDM, Canadian, European, Australian and some others, is the need of installing Surface-Mount-Devices (SMD’s). The same installation kit of the P28 and other OBD-I Civic / Integra ecus is needed, but the parts are smaller. These parts are; the 74HC373 chip, the “J1″ jumper and the two bypass capacitors, which instead of being a through-hole mounting devices, these are soldered on the surface of the circuit board. They are smaller and a little bit more difficult than their counter parts, but still, it is a simple job. The resistor “R54″ is not needed on this installation and the two capacitors are optional, so the jumper and 74HC373 latch chip will be depicted only.

Here is a picture of the 74HC373 SMD Chip

Note: This job requires average skills on electronics soldering, but it doesn’t require skills on electronics. You may always bring the computer and the new chip to any TV or electronics shop so they can install the chip and the other parts, then you just install back the computer in your car. Also, all connections should be verified before and after soldering the socket. Take care not to jump connections with soldering or brake circuit traces by over heating. Notice that there are connections above, bellow and inside the circuit board that are sensitive to too much heat. Always clean the finished job with a mild solvent like alcohol

This installation is needed only once. After that, it will be a matter of pulling out one chip and inserting any other if you would like to switch between different tunings or for comparisons. Whenever you wish to go back to stock mode, please do not uninstall anything. Just cut or remove jumper “J1″. Installing back that jumper will switch to performance mode again, as long as the chip is inserted.

Your computer is located at the passenger’s side kick panel or lower dash. After locating the computer in your vehicle, remove the bolts that attach the computer to its place and carefully disconnect the harnesses that are plugged to its back. The harnesses can be disconnected by pushing a clip, located on top of the plastic connectors and pulling it back carefully. After uninstalling the ecu, put it in a flat table and remove the bolts securing both top and bottom covers using a #2 Phillips screwdriver. Remove the bolts that fixes the small board on the top of the main board and CAREFULLY flip it back, taking care not brake the flexible cable ribbon attached to it.

(Click on image to enlarge)

For installing the chip, you will need to locate the footprints on the circuit board where the parts to be installed belong (See picture above). In regular cases, there will be no parts installed in the targeted spots, just the footprints. You will only need to clean the spots (remove the solder) and then solder in place the corresponding parts. First, solder in place the 28-Pin socket and the 74HC373 small chip (SMD – Surface Mount Device).

After that, flip over the ecu and locate the spot of the “J1″ jumper on that side of the circuit board. Just jump it with a small piece of wire or with a zero-ohm surface-mount resistor. The best is a low height arc shaped jumper made with a piece of wire, so it can be cut / joined for switching between stock and performance modes. If you decide to put a switch on the ecu wall or cover, it is ok, but keep wires short. Check picture below for location of “J1″.

Now, insert the performance chip on the 28-Pin socket. Please use the drawings above and below as reference, to make sure you are installing the chips the right way in the socket, since they will fit both ways, but will only work in the right one.

Now you are ready to put back together your ecu and reinstall it in your NEW car !!!

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This is the following Honda ecu computers: PM6, PW0, PR3 (OBD-0) and PR4 (OBD-0).

Installing a performance chip on 1988 -1991 Honda Civic / CRX is a single procedure that consists of removing the stock chip, soldering a socket in place and inserting the performance chip on the socket. This instructions are similar to the instructions for installing a performance chip on OBD-I Accord and Prelude elsewhere on this website.

Different from the OBD-I Civic and Integra ecus, which you must add some extra parts, the OBD-0 Civic and CRX ecus do have a stock chip that can be replaced, making it simpler in a way, but tougher at the same time in another, because you will need to unsolder the stock chip, which is held with soldering in both top and bottom sides of the circuit board.

Note: This job requires average skills on electronics soldering, but it doesn’t require skills on electronics. You may always bring the computer, the new chip to any TV or electronics shop so they can install the chip, then you just install back the computer in your car. Also, all connections should be verified before and after soldering the socket. Take care not to jump connections with soldering or brake circuit traces by over heating. Notice that there are connections above, bellow and inside the circuit (multi-layered) board that are sensitive to too much heat. Always clean the finished job with a mild solvent like 91% – 99% isopropyl alcohol.

Your car’s ecu is located at the passenger’s side kick panel or lower dash. After locating the computer in your vehicle, remove the bolts that attach the computer to its place and carefully disconnect the harnesses that are plugged to its back. The harnesses can be disconnected by pushing a clip, located on top of the plastic connectors and pulling it back carefully.

This installation is needed only once. After that, it will be a matter of pulling out one chip and inserting any other, every time you want to switch between “Stock” and “Power” modes. These instructions cover all 1988 to 1991 (OBD-0) Honda computers that are listed at the top of this page for Civic and CRX.

For installing the chip, just find the 28 pin chip marked as “M38256AP-xx” (see the picture bellow). It must be unsoldered and replaced with the 28-pin chip socket, and then the new performance chip must be inserted on it. Make sure that you align the chip so pin #1 goes to the same place of the old chip (lower left corner of the chip in the picture bellow). No other parts are needed on these models. After inserting the chip, just put the ecu back together and reinstall it in your car.

Note: The “xx” after the “M38256AP” is different in every computer. That is the code of the program written in the chip. The picture below is an example of the PM6-A09 (65). For PW0 it will be “71“, for the OBD-0 PR3, there are two versions, “58″ and “93″, so you must first open and check your ecu before buying a performance chip, to make sure it will fit. Every ecu has its own code.

One good technique of removing the chip, though still requires patience, is soldering all the pins of the stock chip together and fill it up with molten solder, then heating both sides at the same time and gently prying it with a flat screwdriver. This, of course, will require two good soldering irons of 35 watts. Please do NOT use soldering irons hotter than that or it may damage the ecu and the stock chip. The best non expensive and very good quality for this are the Weller brand. Radio Shack’s irons are NOT appropriate for this. Those are more for hobbyists than for heavy jobs like this. Before starting, always spread in all the area to be worked some electronics soldering flux paste to facilitate the job, as it cleans contacts and rejuvenate soldering when heated.

After you finally and GENTLY pull out the chip, you must clean it with desoldering braid so it can be used again whenever you want to go back to stock mode. Otherwise, if you damage the chip when removing it, you will need a copy of the stock chip if you want to go back to stock mode. You can either burn your own or order it from places like http://www.otherdeal.com Just drop a quick message at the contact form on that page requiring what you need. Also, on that page you can pay for the service of installing the socket for you, handing your ecu over the mail.

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This is the following Honda ecu computers: P0A, P0B, P0C, P0H (OBD-I), P11, P12, P13, and P14.

Installing a performance chip on 1993-1995 Honda Prelude and 1994-1995 Accord is a single procedure that consists of removing the stock chip, soldering a socket in place and inserting the performance chip on the socket.

Different from the OBD-I Civic and Integra ecus, which you must add some extra parts, the OBD-I Accord and Prelude ecus do have a stock chip that can be replaced, making it simpler in a way, but tougher at the same time in another, because you will need to unsolder the stock chip, which is held with soldering in both top and bottom sides of the circuit board.

Note: This job requires average skills on electronics soldering, but it doesn’t require skills on electronics. You may always bring the computer, the new chip to any TV or electronics shop so they can install the chip, then you just install back the computer in your car. Also, all connections should be verified before and after soldering the socket. Take care not to jump connections with soldering or brake circuit traces by over heating. Notice that there are connections above, bellow and inside the circuit (multi-layered) board that are sensitive to too much heat. Always clean the finished job with a mild solvent like 91% – 99% isopropyl alcohol.

Your car’s ecu is located at the passenger’s side kick panel or lower dash. After locating the computer in your vehicle, remove the bolts that attach the computer to its place and carefully disconnect the harnesses that are plugged to its back. The harnesses can be disconnected by pushing a clip, located on top of the plastic connectors and pulling it back carefully.

This installation is needed only once. After that, it will be a matter of pulling out one chip and inserting any other, every time you want to switch between “Stock” and “Power” modes. These instructions cover all 1993 to 1995 (OBD-I) Honda computers that are listed at the top of this page for Accord and Prelude.

For installing the chip, just find the 28 pin chip marked as “M38256AP-xx” (see the picture bellow). It must be unsoldered and replaced with the 28-pin chip socket, and then the new performance chip must be inserted on it. Make sure that you align the chip so pin #1 goes to the same place of the old chip (lower left corner of the chip in the picture bellow). No other parts are needed on these models. After inserting the chip, just put the ecu back together and reinstall it in your car.

Note: The “xx” after the “M38256AP” is different in every computer. That is the code of the program written in the chip. The picture below is an example of the P0A-A51 (F4). For P0B it will be “F5“, for P14 it is “C8“, and so on. Every ecu has its own code. Even the Prelude’s P13 have 4 different codes, which are “A6″, “E6″, “C2″ and “C3″. On this case, the code depends on the Domestic Market of the ecu. SO, A6 and E6 are Japanese (JDM) and both programs are different. C2 is for the USA ecu (USDM) and C3 is for the UK European ecu (UKDM or EDM).

One good technique of removing the chip, though still requires patience, is soldering all the pins of the stock chip together and fill it up with molten solder, then heating both sides at the same time and gently prying it with a flat screwdriver. This, of course, will require two good soldering irons of 35 watts. Please do NOT use soldering irons hotter than that or it may damage the ecu and the stock chip. The best non expensive and very good quality for this are the Weller brand. Radio Shack’s irons are NOT appropriate for this. Those are more for hobbyists than for heavy jobs like this. Before starting, always spread in all the area to be worked some electronics soldering flux paste to facilitate the job, as it cleans contacts and rejuvenate soldering when heated.

After you finally and GENTLY pull out the chip, you must clean it with desoldering braid so it can be used again whenever you want to go back to stock mode. Otherwise, if you damage the chip when removing it, you will need a copy of the stock chip if you want to go back to stock mode. You can either burn your own or order it from places like http://www.otherdeal.com Just drop a quick message at the contact form on that page requiring what you need. Also, on that page you can pay for the service of installing the socket for you, handing your ecu over the mail.

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When installing a performance chip, most of the times it is required that the distributor ignition timing be at the stock setting. This is brought here, because prior to installing a chip, many car owners, often do a manual timing advance (global setting) in an attempt to make more power out of the engine. Other times, it is caused because of a mechanical fix that required removal of the ignition assembly and it is left unadjusted when it is installed back.

This should be reverted if a performance chip is used, since the chip advance timing in various points by itself already and adding any extra manual advance will possibly result in dangerous detonations, also known as engine pinging or pre-ignition. This, could be very destructive for the engine at high speeds.

Here are some tables showing the stock setting of some Honda cars that are chipped often.

92-95 Civic EX (P28 Chip, D16Z6 1.6 L SOHC VTEC Engine) and
92-95 Civic DX (P06 Chip, D15B7 1.5L SOHC Engine)

Degrees BTDC	@RPM Automatic	@ RPM Manual
16°	650-750	620-720

92-95 Civic CX (P05 Chip, D15B8 1.5L SOHC Engine)

Degrees BTDC	@RPM Automatic	@ RPM Manual
12°	650-750	620-720

94-95 Civic Del Sol (P30 Chip, B16A3 1.6L DOHC VTEC Engine)

Degrees BTDC	@RPM Automatic	@ RPM Manual
16°	650-750	620-720

All 94-95 Accord EX/LX (P0A, P0B Chips, F22 2.2L Engine)

Degrees BTDC	@RPM Automatic	@ RPM Manual
13°-17°	650-750	620-720

All 93-94 Prelude S/Si (P12, P13, P14 Chips, H22, H23 2.2L/2.3L Engines)

Degrees BTDC	@RPM Automatic	@ RPM Manual
13°-17°	650-750	620-720

93-95 Honda Prelude Ignition Timing Adjustment

For doing the adjustment on Prelude, you will need a timing light. The car must first be warmed up until the fan turns on. Timing marks for timing light are exposed by removing the rubber cap from inspection window on the cylinder block, by the bell housing. Also, the ignition timing check connector must be jumped. It is located under center of dash. See the drawing below for its location.

Connect jumper wire between the Blue/White and Brown/White wire terminals.

To adjust timing, loosen distributor hold-down bolts and turn distributor housing counterclockwise to advance or clockwise to retard timing. Align the pointer with the Red timing mark.

When the job is done, tighten the distributor bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 N.m). and recheck timing.

If it is all OK, remove the jumper from the ignition timing check connector. Reinstall the cap into inspection window on the cylinder block.

94-95 Honda Accord Ignition Timing Adjustment

Adjustment for the Accord is similar to the Prelude described above, with exception that timing marks are located on the timing belt cover itself and the service connector is located somewhere else. It is located under the glove compartment, as shown below:

92-95 Civic Ignition Timing Adjustment

Again, the Civic procedure is no different from the two above. As in the Accord, ignition timing marks are located on the timing belt cover itself. The ignition check connector is located different. You will find it on the right side (passenger’s side) kick panel, near the ecu. Check the drawing below for location:

Here are the timing marks on the 1992 – 1995 Honda Accord:

On the above picture, the red mark is 15 degrees BTDC, while the white mark is TDC (0 degrees BTDC). If colors are faded, you may clean the area from dirt and/or grease and highlight each with white and red chalk, so it shines through the timing light. Remember that the last mark at the right should be the white one (TDC).

 
www.TechnicalDomain.Net

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Well, I have heard one of the craziest proposals on racing. People suggested to maybe use gun powder to boost low octane gasoline…

Well, the truth is that damage is imminent, but how big, will depend on what gun powder you use.

Before clarifying, first of all, gun powder is solid. Not being a fluid is reason enough to stop thinking on that! Non-fluid components will risk the whole fuel system, specially the capillary size flow parts like injectors, if it gets through the fuel filter.

Haven’t tried that, but if you use regular (old) gun powder (black powder), it is composed of very finely powdered and very intimately mixed charcoal (Carbon – C), sulfur (S) and salpeter (Potassium Nitrate – KNO3). It will separate on a liquid (fuel) and some particles will actually path the fuel filter, specially KNO3 that can be diluted.

That is just part of the problem, because if it makes it through the combustion chamber, the chemical reaction under high pressure and high temperature will be unpredictable.

Potassium Nitrate, which is the part that will mostly reach the combustion chamber because of it solubility at high temperatures, is the oxidant part of gun powder. At high temperature it will liberate one atom of oxygen per molecule of KNO3, boosting the combustion stroke. Yes, possibly more power and possibly in the order of the power given by nitrous oxides (at the end there are plenty of nitrous oxides in KNO3), but with a devastating effect on the engine, like extreme corrosion because of nitric acid formation, damage of the catalytic converter, and a possible complete valve clough because of the resulting Potassium Nitrite (KNO2), to mention a few.

On the other hand, if the gun powder used is the modern smokeless powder, I think that the fuel filter will get cloughed in question if seconds. If it manages to get to the combustion chamber, the same nitrous oxides + nitric acid accident will happen. Smokeless powder is made using nitro-cellulose, like nitro-cotton. Yes, nitrated cotton. It gets worse than that, as it is a double-base powder, meaning that a small percentage of nitro-glycerin is added for a more complete combustion. This complete combustion and the fact that it is a chemical compound and not a mixture as the black powder is, make it burn so complete, that makes little or no smoke and very small solid residue, contrary to black powder. Invisible gasses are liberated from its combustion and that’s is why it is called smokeless powder. At the end some nitro-glycerin may reach the combustion chamber at least.

In any case, it is a bad, bad idea. I though only a child could imagine a thing like that, but who knows. Who ever uses this, will only get a non-running vehicle in a very little time and the damage will be so expensive to fix that maybe will be without car for long.

Sounds like an obvious need-not-to-explain silly idea, but I have often heard things like this, so I better give my two cents for enlightment.

Anyway, keep safe guys.

Copyright: www.TechnicalDomain.Net

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For installing a chip on your GTi ecu, just follow the following instructions:

Start out by locating the engine computer on your car. It is located under the driver’s side dash. You will need to remove the bolts that are attaching it on its place, then carefully pull out the ecu connector by pressing the locking plastic clip on it. See the drawing below for reference on locating the ecu:

Once the computer is out, remove the top cover by taking out the 4 long bolts that secure the cover. Now, remove the 6 bolts that hold the top circuit board. You will notice them as soon as you remove the top cover. The picture below will show the location of the 6 bolts that need to be removed.

DO NOT pull the board up yet! Please, first notice that this board is attached to the bottom board with a flexible ribbon. Flip out the top board very carefully, not to brake the flexible ribbon. Look at the following picture so you have an idea of the attaching ribbon location:

Now, the chip to be replaced, is in the top board and will be covered with a silver colored label or sticker. First, notice the orientation of Pin #1. Write down if necessary, where that pin is facing to, as the new chip must be installed in the same direction. Very carefully, not to damage the circuit by overheating, unsolder the chip and after cleaning the excess flux with alcohol pads and verifying that everything is ok, no broken traces, etc., solder a chip socket (DIP-28) in its place and then just insert the chip in the socket, aligning it in the same way the prior chip was and firmly pressing down after making sure that all pins of the chip are in place on the socket.

It will help a lot if before soldering, you also align the socket mark for Pin #1. That way, it will serve as reference, making any future chip swapping easier.

Put back the board and the computer top cover and then re install the computer in the car. Make sure that the connector harnesses snaps in place when you push it in. Otherwise, some wires might not connect properly, causing problems.

Be careful with what chip you use as there are many sellers offering low quality chips. For example, a chip that we saw in a famous online market, stated that it works on 89-95 models. That is not true! Either 89-91 or 92-94.

A very good chip for this ecu is sold at:

http://www.OtherDeal.com

These will really work for 89-94 GT and GTi models. Do not be fooled by its low price. They pull very hard and are made by real professionals. Believe me, once you test one of these chips, you won’t want to drive your car without it ever again.

Copyright: www.TechnicalDomain.Net

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To install a chip on VW Jetta / Golf / Passat ecu, you first must uninstall the ecu from your car. Here is the location of the VW Jetta / Golf / Passat, though the placement might be the same for other models. This document is intended for the 94-95 VR6, but again, the same may apply to other models, so it can be used as a guide.

The ecu is located on the engine compartment, below the passengers side wiper assembly, as shown in the picture below.

Remove the hood seal and plastic cover over that area and then release the 68-Pin harness connector by pulling the plug end lever, away from the wire harness. This will release the plug so it can be removed from the computer. Now, remove the bolt that secures the computer to the car’s body and slide the computer out. Often, it can be slightly tight, but it will come out.

Once the computer is out, remove the (4) #10 Torx screws that secure the computer cover and gently slide out the heat sink and connector with the circuit board. Take precautions against static electricity by sitting down and grounding yourself by touching the heat sink portion of the computer. This will balance any existing electrical differential of potential.

Some 1994-1996 VR6 computers may have the ROM soldered to the circuit board and will have to be un-soldered and have a socket installed (included). If this is your case, you can either unsolder the chip yourself if you have skills on electronics soldering or take your car computer to any TV or electronics technician to unsolder it and solder the socket in.

Click on image to enlarge

If your ROM is in a socket already, then gently pry the ROM from the socket with a small flat screwdriver. Lift each side little by little until fully extracted and take note of the notch on one end of the ROM and the socket.

When inserting the new ROM, make sure that the notch is pointing to the same direction as the ROM you just pulled out. Make sure that all the pins are aligned in the socket before carefully, but firmly pushing it all the way down.

Now put the ecu back together and reinstall it on its place. Plug back the 68-Pin connector and push it until engaged. Put back the plastic cover and hood seal.

Great real chips for this ecu can be found at

http://www.otherdeal.com

They are very affordable, but don’t let the price fool you. Even though they are low priced, they offer great drivability and power gains fro your VW.

Copyright www.TechnicalDomain.net

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Now, here is the location of most Honda ecus. In some models it is also located below the passenger’s side seat, but most of the times is in the location pictured below.

Be sure that it reads any number starting with “37820″ on its side label, as some automatic Honda’s have a separated transmission ecu that starts with other numbers. Below is an example of the engine ecu of a P04 ecu. Note that it begins with “37820″.

Richard

www.TechnicalDomain.net

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Hi guys, as it is frequently asked, here is the location of the ecu for the 2004-2007 Toyota Corolla. It might also be located in the same place in either earlier and later model years as well.

To take it out, you must remove the glove compartment by gently disengaging it. Also, 2 bolts at the bottom of the glove compartment must be removed along with plastic plugs in the same area at the bottom, that holds a plastic cover.

After that, all that remains are the 4 connectors of the ecu and a support point that the ecu has on its back, covered with a rubber piece. That support point is not tied to anything. Just to move it backwards will loosen it. The four connectors can be disconnected from the front, through the glove compartment hole. Just push the plastic clip of each connector with your thumb, while carefully pulling it back. Don’t worry about taking notes of connectors order, since each one will only fit on its right place.

Good lock guys.

www.technicaldomain.net

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After publishing our article about IAT resistors, many people have been requesting related information not included in the mentioned post. Here we are including some
of that info.

The original article may be accessed at:
http://qcwo.com/technicaldomain/?p=64#more-64

NOTE: For easy calculating the resistor you need, just use the online resistor color code calculator: Resistor Color Code Calculator

What does “IAT” stands for?

IAT = “Intake Air Temperature” sensor. On some vehicles, the info of this sensor is very relevant, making considerable changes depending on the value present on this sensor, while in other vehicles it will cause very small changes.

What is the resistance of X model?

Honda IAT:

BMW IAT:

Toyota IAT:

We don’t have the info on the Toyota Corolla handy at this moment, but below you will find how to identify the connection of the iat from the maf sensor. That should be enough for doing some simple temperature tests as described in the first published article about this. Just search for “IAT” on the form at the top of this page or look at the link elsewhere at the beginning of this article.

As you will see in the image above, the pinout seems to be inverted. This is because the reference is taken from the harness connector terminal and not from the MAF connector terminal. Only two wires (4 and 5) connect to the internal IAT. They are; Yellow with a black stripe and Brown (or Orange in some models). Remember that the IAT has no polarity and it can be connected without taking care of that.

Hyundai IAT:

Where can I find the IAT sensor?

IAT sensor for Honda Civic:

Below is pictured the location of the Honda Civic and Integra location of the IAT sensor. It is right after the intake air hardware, at the beginning of the plenum. This is a two-wire connector.

IAT sensor for BMW 325i:

The BMW manual for the IAT sensor location is very simple and do not provide location pictures. They are describes as follows:

92-93 BMW 325i: “on throttle body assembly, behind throttle valve switch”

93-95 BMW 325i: “on left side of engine” (Dohh!)

IAT sensor for 2004-2005 Corolla:

You will find the MAF / IAT installed in the incoming air path, right on top of the air filter on the 2004-2007 Toyota Corolla. It has a 5-wire connector.

These are based on search statistics. Any other model you wish to be added, please just requested below in this page’s “comments” area.

Thanks for reading,

Richard

(C) Copyright - TechnicalDomain.Net

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Some questions that we receive are posted here, in case it can help others that may need the same information.

————————————————-

Question

————————————————-

Dear auto-motivo,

can you provide me with the shipping tracking number when available, and i was also wonder if it would be possible to not solder the socket directly to the ecu motherboard but rather solder wires to each pin hole after original IC is removed and connect those wires to the socket that is located in a easier to access location like say in the bottom of the center console for easier chip changing or would the resistance of that length of wire interfere with the chip.

94 – 95 Honda Accord EX 2.2L Performance Chip P0A ECU

- JoEllen

————————————————-

Answer

————————————————-

Hello JoEllen.

I apologize for the delay. We had a technical problem when preparing your item last Friday and it was the last one. Fortunately, we are receiving new merchandise on Monday, so your item will be shipped then. Again, I apologize for this, as we currently ship the same day.

About your technical question, if the chip is wired from any remote location, other than mounted on the socket on the board, the resistance offered by the wires is not to be worried about, but for the possible electronic noise being picked up by the wiring as if it were 28 separate antennas (28-pins). Electronic noise may lock the ecu or make it behave erratically.

If you wish to do so, you should use parallel wiring, like the one used for the hard disk or CD-ROM data connection (IDE), making two separated harnesses of 14 pins each one, plus, it must be shielded and the shielding must be connected to ground on the ecu. For example, heavy aluminum foil can be neatly rapped around each of the two resulting harnesses, and then, both must be securely (flawlessly) connected to ground.

On the other hand, if your idea is to switch between “Stock” and “Power” chips, or just two different chips, a dual chip would do the job better and you will be able to choose between programs with the flip of a switch. This will only work if it is going to be chosen between two programs only. If it is to be switched among more than two programs, this approach won’t work.

For this you will need a dual chip which is, a double capacity chip with two programs accommodated on it. For example, your ecu uses a chip of 32K, and a dual chip will have a capacity of 64K, making room for two programs. Then it will be a matter of switching the higher memory address bit between ground and +Vcc to choose which one of the programs to activate.

You will find more details in the link below. If you are interested, and the programs are “stock” and “power”, I can send you the dual chip, where the default program is the power one, that will be active in case you finally decide not to do the wiring for the dual chip, which really is very easy and will need much less effort than wiring the whole chip (it is explained in details in the link at the end of this message (our blog).

The only thing with a dual chip in Honda cars, is that in most cases, the engine has to be turned off, flip the switch and then start the engine again so the changes take place. Flipping the switch with the engine on, will do no harm, but the program might not switch.

Just let me know.

Best regards,

Richard

www.racingchips.net

Technical Info:

http://qcwo.com/technicaldomain/?p=129

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We have often been asked for a EWS delete chip. That is, a chip that boost power of their 1995 325i or 525i, and deletes the EWS protection at the same time.

First of all, what is EWS? EWS is an anti-theft system installed in BMW cars around 1995 (EWS-II). Later cars use EWS system too, but different versions (EWS-III, for example). It is similar on its idea, to the immobilizer system used in other cars, like Toyota, Honda and VW.

Schematic of the EWS-II system:

In the 1995 325i / 525i, it is used the EWS-II. Those cars have module (EWS Control Module), pictured above as “EWS II”, that connects to the ecu (”DME” above). The car key sends an unique code through the key lock cylinder, to the transmitter/receiver module which amplifies the signal and convert it to a digital signal and then send it to the EWS control module. This module will compare the received code with the code stored in the ecu (”DME”) and if the same, all normal functioning is resumed. Otherwise, the starter might work or not, but there will absolutely be no injection.

In short, your car can only be started with your key (transponder key). The key has a micro chip inside with the unique code stored on its micro circuit. Your car’s ecu will only “listen” to your key. A perfect copy of the key won’t work either, even if it is a similar transponder key, originally made by BMW.

So an EWS delete chip, has as part of its functions, the disabling of this system. We don’t have one of those chips available, but the one we have (www.racingchips.net) can be used if some wiring tampering is done. Our chip is meant for Non-EWS ecus (0 261 200 413 with RED label or sticker, NOT Silver colored). If our chip is used without the tampering on EWS enabled ecus (silver label or sticker), the car won’t crank or will crank but will not start.

You can install the Non-EWS chip and manually disable the EWS system by locating the EWS Control Module (location pictured below) and cut or disconnect the wire #7 (solid green colored). This will allow the chip to give its power and not been interrupted by the EWS system.

Other alternative, is to disconnect the same wire from the ecu instead. On the ecu it connects to pin #66, as shown on the image below. The image is of the harness terminal and NOT of the ecu terminal. That is why numbers are on inverted order. Click on it to see it full size.

The cons of this are of course, that your car will no longer be protected by the EWS system as long as you have this modification.

Reaching the EWS Control Module:

Good luck and thanks for reading.

Copyright www.technicaldomain.net

Â

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We have heard a lot of customer complaints about the built in immobilizer on the 2005 – 2006 Toyota Corolla, being the most common ones “The car cranks OK, but won’t start” or “The car cranks and starts, but the engine die in about a second and a half”.

Well, the above is most of the times caused by a mismatch of the engine immobilizer or a malfunctioning of its circuit (very rare).

What is it?

The immobilizer is an anti-theft measure, implemented on many modern cars today.

The system is integrated by (1) a special circuit in the ecu, (2) the car key, called “transponder key”, and (3) a coil antenna mounted around and inside the key lock assembly and (4) the transponder circuit, where the antenna connects.

Inside your car key, in the black or grey plastic part, there is a micro chip in a glass capsule, which contains the whole circuit needed for the key to transmit an unique code when close to the energized coil antenna. That is why your car key’s plastic part is wider than normal, to accommodate the device.

The circuit inside the key needs no battery, as it is powered up by magnetic signals out coming from the coil antenna. Right after the key is energized by the antenna, it starts emitting back to the coil, the code it has previously stored. All the communication and power feeding between the car key and the transponder circuit installed inside the steering column, is electro-magnetical. The code that the car key has programmed inside, is the code given to it when it was programmed by the dealer, using part of the VIN number.

The code received by the coil antenna from the car key, is amplified and decoded by the transponder circuit and then transmitted to the ecu to be compared with the code already stored on it and then be sent back to the transponder for comparisons.

If the comparison tests Ok, then the transponder circuit sends a signal to the ecu to allow the engine to run. If on the other hand, the code is not recognized (mismatched), the ecu shuts off the engine a second and a half after starting it and flash the security indicator on the dash board.

Why this happens?

Well, this can be caused by several reasons. Some are the following:

1 – The owner lost a key, ordered a new one, but since the code is unique to every key, it won’t match the one on the ecu and will fail the comparison test, shutting the engine down. On this state, the car should run with the valet parking key or any other valid copy of the key the owner may have. The problem is if the lost key was the only one available.

2 – The owner needed an ecu replacement for any reason and the same will happen here, the code in the ecu won’t match the one on the key, shutting down the engine.

3 – A sudden malfunction of the system caused by an unexplainable reason like a power failure or by connecting an incompatible, wrong or faulty scanner or diagnostic equipment or anything alike.

What to do?

We have, as told by the dealer, 3 options here.

1 – Go to the dealer so they cut a new key and synchronize it (program it) with the existing ecu. The ecu must be in a state that can accept new keys. All ecru’s are supposed to have a capacity of accepting from 8 to 10 new keys (maybe around $100).

2 – If the dealer has the equipment, the ecu must be re-seeded so it can accept new keys, in case number one above doesn’t work (even more $$$).

3- Replace the ecu for a new one if the above two options don’t work and possibly will need to buy new blank keys. (probably from $800 to $1300).

Too pricey

yes, it is too pricey, but there is a third option not offered by the dealers, probably because they don’t know it. The ecu can be reflashed (reprogrammed) so it will be ready to accept either new or old keys. This procedure will put the ecu key memory in a virgin state, as a new one. The downside of this is that a special reprogramming equipment and software is needed, but we have tested it and works perfect and only takes a few minutes. Another downside is that the ecu must be sent by mail so the job get done.

What is done to the ecu? It is reprogrammed (only the part that works with the key codes) without removing any part from the circuit. The job is completely untraceable and warrantied to work 100%.

This service can be found at the link below:

http://www.OtherDeal.com

Copyright www.technicaldomain.net

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Installed a performance chip in a Honda P28 and it is not working? Having problems?

Don’t worry. It is more common than you think, as many people choose to install it their selves, even if they have no experience with electronic parts soldering / desoldering and these ecms, even though small and somewhat basic, still are computers with sophisticated and sensitive circuits which are physically fragile. Once in a while, even professionals face some problems, so here are some basic methods to troubleshoot your installation.

This will cover not only the P28, but the P05, P06, USDM P30, P72, P74, P75 and OBD-I PR4 computers as well.

First things first

The most common problem is that the engine won’t rev more than 4000 RPMs after the installation of the chip and check engine light will be turned steadily on also. This will be accompanied by a too rich mixture smell. Some others, show a different behavior like VTEC not activating (on VTEC engines), rough idle and difficulties starting the engine.

Before doing anything, please check that both chips, the EPROM and the latch (74HC373), were inserted in the right direction. If any of those is backwards, correct it and do a test. Note: It is possible that the inverted chip or chips got damaged, needing replacement.

If chips were inserted the right way, the next move is to check if the ecu is still working when put back to stock mode. To do this test, just remove (unsolder) or cut “J1″, which is the jumper that is instructed to solder in when installing a performance chip, and do a test starting the engine. Note: Removal of any other of the installed parts is NOT necessary for this test. This test will rule out the possibility that the ecu got damaged somehow, when the installation was performed.

“J1″ jumper tells the ecu circuit whether to use the internal (stock) program or use the code existing in the installed chip (external program). The ecu will be in stock mode when “J1″ jumper is cut (opened). In that mode it will be using the internal program, which is embedded in the microcontroller itself (OKI 66207). On the other hand, when this jumper is connected (closed), it will force the ecu to use the external program, which is written in the installed chip. So, if when opening J1, everything goes back to normal and problems no longer show, then the problem will be one or a combination of the following 3 causes;

1. The installation wasn’t done right
2. The chip installed is not compatible with the ecu (wrong program)
3. The chip is damaged

If the problem persists after doing the “J1″ jumper test, then somehow, the ecu circuitry got damaged during the installation. For possible causes, keep reading.

How to check the installation

Accidental jumpers or short circuits

The first thing to check is the soldering. You should check for accidental bridges, jumping contiguous pins or connections of the installed parts. Do this firstly by inspecting it visually using a magnifier glass. If nothing is found, then you should use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between every pair of contiguous pins. This is important as the circuit board is a multi-layered one, meaning that it has connections above, below and in between its layers, making some connections not visible. When too much solder is used, it tends to absorb it through the integrated tubular connections that join all the layers and possibly accumulating in excess, jumping two or more points. So, if any two contiguous pins of any of the installed parts shows a resistance reading of less than 1 or 2 ohms, then somehow those two connections got jumped by excess soldering or metal debris.

Broken Connections

The other thing to check is possible broken connections that often happen on these jobs due to overheating when soldering. This computer circuit boards are VERY sensitive to excess heat and this accounts for the majority of the problems that show after an installation.

If a connection was broken during installation, it will be between the chip, the latch (small 74HC373 chip) and the MCU (64-Pin microcontroller unit), because that is the area involved on the job.

Below is a chart that will help you corroborate all involved connections. All the connection should measure continuity (less than 1 ohm) with an ohmmeter or continuity checker. Any reading over 1 ohm is indicative of a faulty connection. If any of the connections displayed in the table fails the continuity test, it must be corrected before going further with the test. Do so by checking the circuit to see if the connecting trace is visibly broken so it can be fixed by soldering. Otherwise, just run a thin insulated wire, soldering between both points that failed. The wire should be kept as short and close to the board as possible. This Will prevent it from picking or generating electronic noise.

Before the chart, there are two pictures. One identifying the involved components and the other, showing a guide for identifying the pin numbering on every respective chip.

Involved components location:

Pin Identification of involved chips:

Connection test chart:

Pin#11 of the HC373, connects to Pin#22 of the MCU

When “J1″ Test Fails and all connections are good

If “J1″ test fails and all connections on the table test OK, we have seen that sometimes the latch chip (74HC373) goes bad by overheating when soldering it or by static electricity. Also, as mentioned before, backwards insertion of any of the chips can damage either one or both, but being this one the more susceptible to such problem.

The less possible but has happened before, is the MCU going bad for the same reasons.

The procedure then, is to replace the 74HC373 first as it is quite inexpensive (about $2.00) and do a test. If problems persist, then it is best to replace the ecu, as a spare MCU is hardly found, adding to this that it is a discontinued product. Also, replacing it will take a greater effort than the the whole installation job and might really ruin the ecu, loosing the money spent in that part anyway.

FAQ

Q – Will a chip with an incompatible program damage my ecu?

A – No. The ecu will activate the check engine light steadily and go to protection (limp home) mode to avoid engine damage. To achieve the purpose of protection, it won’t allow the engine to rev more than 4000 RPMs and fuel mixture will go very rich to avoid destructive lean conditions.

Q – I have had many problems buying chips like these on eBay and other places. Do you know where to buy a real good chip?

A – Yes. We know about problems with eBay. Most chip sellers don’t know about mechanics or racing, neither programming. The ones that sell a chip that doesn’t fail, are selling just the same copies of the same chip. Nothing new and those chips are only fairly good. We highly recommend the chips found on the link below. They are tested and will make your car pull real hard:

http://www.OtherDeal.com

In that web site, you will also find the service of chipping your ecu very affordably, in case you don’t want to, don’t have either the tools or experience, or didn’t find anyone to do it for you.

Copyright www.TechnicalDomain.net

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Many of you racers, must have heard or read about dual chips. Dual chips are chips that their memory capacity doubles the one of the original chip, so two different, same size programs can be written inside so it can be selected between them on the fly, simply by using a small switch.

It is useful for selecting between the stock program and the performance program. That is, a “Normal” and “Sport” selection switch. Also, if your performance chip doesn’t pass smog tests, the stock program can be selected in a flip of the switch at the time of the inspection test.

If the stock or “Normal” program is not to be used anyway, then the dual chip can accommodate two different performance programs like “Mild” and “Hot” selection switch.

If the original chip is small enough in capacity, there can be installed more “versions” or “power levels”, but a more complex switching would be needed. We will cover here the dual program chip only, using a 27C512 (64KB) EPROM where the original is a 27C256 EPROM (32KB).

If you don’t have or don’t know how to use or manage the chip burning equipment, you may ask somebody skilled on this to do the burning part. If using the “Normal” and “Sports” version, then you would ask the stock program to be burned in the lower memory page of the chip (0000h-7FFFh) and the performance program in the higher memory page (8000h-FFFFh). This is done by combining the programs in that order, in a single binary file, before transferring it (burning) to the new chip.

There are many products out there to do this dual chip switching in form of a socket with jumpers, averaging between $30 and $80 , like the Moates one, and it is a very nice product, but if you need to do it in many ecus or simply don’t have much to spend, then this trick will be useful.

You will just need a 1 kohm resistor, a small switch and some thin electrical cable. Below is the simple schematic:

The connection diagram is something like the one blow:

Installation

The resistor must be soldered directly in the pins #1 and #28 of the chip. Do this with the chip out of the socket or you will ruin it. Solder must only cover the upper part of the chip leads, or the chip could not be reinserted in the socket. Then, the switch must be wired to leads #1 (carefully, in the same spot as the resistor) and #14 in the upper part of the leads also. Now the chip can be carefully reinserted in the socket, but VERY IMPORTANT, pin #1 must be hanging out the socket, unconnected, nor touching any part of the socket metal contact.

The above happens because pin#1 is used only when programming (writing) the chip and it is of no use for the ecu (the ecu only reads it), but for some reason, Honda and many other manufacturers wire it directly to the +5V supply of the ecu. That will make a short circuit that WILL damage the ecu when the switch is flipped to the ground position (Pin#14), which corresponds to “Normal” mode.

Special Details

There are two details about this installation;

(1) In some cars, switching on the fly will have no effect. In these cars, for changes to take place, the car must be turned off, the switch flipped, and then the car turned on. Then changes are available.

This is because in those cars, as soon as turned on, the ROM chip is read and then transferred to a faster RAM memory. That is called shadowing or masking. When the car is turned off and then on, it is forced to re-read the ROM and with the switch already flipped, it will read the newly selected program and transfer it to RAM.

(2) In most cases, the cables for the switch must not be longer than 12 inches. That is why we recommend to install it in the ecu body instead of the car dash. This is done to prevent any electrical noise to be picked up by the switch wires, just like an antenna would do. Electrical noise either might cause that the switching of programs become unstable and turn on the check engine light or might also cause the ecu to act erratically or make it to lock up.

Summary

The method described above, is a precise one and have been tested with no problems. It is offered as an economical option for who which to implement a system like this, but, if you don’t have, or have insufficient experience or knowledge in electronics to do this, we recommend that you either do not try it or bring it to a trained person that can do it for you. A trained person might charge a small fee, but damaging the ecu will be really expensive.

www.technicaldomain.net

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Recently, a reader (James) sent me an email asking what he must do to return his P28 ECM to stock specifications after a performance chip was installed. I tried to reply in two occasions, but both emails bounced probably because of a wrong email address entered when sending the contact form, so this is an attempt to answer the question in hope he will read it. Although he have a P28-L01 (Californian – Manual ECM), this applies to all P28, with the exception of Japanese market P28’s.

Before answering this, let me explain that the P28 ecm is not like ecms that you just replace the stock chip for a performance one. In case of a P28, the ecm is running with the stock program which is embedded inside the microcontroller itself. When a performance chip is installed, it is added, but not replaced by a stock part. Besides adding the chip, several other electronic components must be added so the ecm can “realize” that chip is installed and read it. Those other components are two capacitors, a resistor, the performance chip, a small electronic latch chip and the key between performance (new chip) and stock specs (internal program), a jumper (”J1″).

Well for answering the question, just leave the performance parts in circuit and just cut or disconnect the jumper “J1″. When jumper J1 is connected, the ecm will read the new installed chip (performance), but when J1 is cut, the ecm will read its internal program again and all other parts will be transparent for it.

Good Luck.

Best regards,

Richard

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This document is about installing a performance chip on a 1993 – 1995 BMW 325i or 525i ecu.

First of all, let’s locate the ecu so we can unmount it from the car. It is locate under the hood, in the engine compartment.

#1

Refer to the drawing above; facing rearward, towards the windshield, at the upper left hand (passenger side), you will see a soft foam cover. Remove the (3) black plastic buttons that are on top and pry out the plastic tab centers to remove them and then remove the insulated foam cover.

#2

Now, you will see a hard plastic cover. Remove this cover by removing the (4) top screws.

#3

You will see the ECU box attached to a wire harness. Remove it by pulling it out. The ECU will just slide out.

Do not disconnect harness until the ECU is completely removed. For disconnecting the harness, just pull out the lock lever, in the direction showed by the red arrow in the picture at the Right.

#4

E34

If your BMW is the E34 chassis model, the ECU is located under a plastic cover, as showed by the red arrow in the picture above.

Chip Installation

Please, DO NOT remove any bolt from the ecu.

There are (6) tabs holding the cover at the bottom. Using a small and sharp flat screwdriver, CAREFULLY bend the tabs away, so you can take the cover out from its original place. Please take EXTRA precautions when doing this and also when reinstalling the cover, to (1) avoid cutting your hands / fingers if the screwdriver slips and (2) avoid breaking the tabs, as they have proven to be very, very fragile.

Now, inside of the ECU, there is a white plastic cover on top of a chip. It looks like an “H” (picture below). The chip bellow it is the one to be replaced, so please unsnap the plastic cover and BEFORE removing the chip, please note the alignment of its pin #1, so the new chip can be inserted the same way (see a note about this at the end of this document).

Take out the chip by using the same small flat screwdriver and slide it CAREFULLY under the chip for slowly pulling / prying it off its original place, little by little, from both sides. If you have a simple chip pulling tool, you may use it instead.

Install the performance chip, by inserting it in the socket. For doing this, point pin #1 to the same corner as the old chip, then, carefully aligning all the pins into the holes and pushing it down firmly, securing it on place. Re insert (snap) the plastic “H” shaped cover. Now you are ready to put back the ecu cover, reinstall the ecu and enjoy your NEW CAR!!!

A word of caution about installing chips

Copyright www.TechnicalDomain.net

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