Howdy, dear readers. Thanks for waiting for me, it has been a WEEK. Whew. I hoped to wrap this up and send this beast out yesterday, but I needed to scoot over to Nopa’s 20th anniversary blowout last night. There’s much to say about that joyous celebration of their beautiful community (it felt like an industry wedding reception); I’d like to share more thoughts later. But for now, we love you, Nopa! Cheers to 20!

Happy Pride Month! This time of year always gets me revved up to be in community and go dancing, and let’s just say there are some things I know we all need to shake off together. This week’s column was powered by CarrieOnDisco’s Flaggin’ in the Park mix (especially Part Two)—it has some chuggers that will get you into the Pride party spirit real quick. This Saturday, I’m fired up to kick things off with CarrieOnDisco and Horse Meat Disco (with DJ M3) playing a sold-out party at The Castro Theatre. It’ll be cool to experience a Pride dance party for the first time in the historic space. 

It’s also great that Frameline (the longest-running LGBTQ+ film exhibition event in the world) was able to return to The Castro Theatre in time for their 50th anniversary (since 1976)! Check out the calendar for screenings (June 17th–27th).

This past weekend, I was craving the homey Indonesian cooking and warm hospitality from Joe Sutikno-Sharp and his husband, Chris Sharp, at the easygoing Rasa Rasa Kitchen in the Mission. I wrote about this heartfelt corner restaurant in honor of Pride last year, and it was such a pleasure to return to their signature beef rendang, restorative soto Kediri, and balado/sambal eggplant, while trying their tasty fried pompano fish for the first time (with a trio of their sambals that mean business). I was touched when Joe sent over a bowl of his spicy staff meal for me to try: lodeh, a slow-cooked vegetable stew of green beans and eggplant topped with baby anchovies. Yup, he really feeds you with his big heart—get some friends together and go feast, and you’ll walk out of there feeling nourished in many ways.

I have to front-load a bunch of Pride festivities to early in the month since I’m going to be attending a few World Cup matches with my Dad and sister in the second half of June. Allez allez! We’re bouncing down to LA for Switzerland vs. Bosnia and Herzegovina, and then we head back up for Turkey vs. Paraguay at Levi’s Stadium, and then we’re off to Seattle for Bosnia and Herzegovina vs. Qatar. It’s going to be a blast—our Dad is in full Carmen form when it’s World Cup (here’s another pic of him when we went to World Cup in Russia in 2018). The timing of these matches couldn’t be better with Father’s Day coming up. Wait until you see the custom T-shirts I had made for him. 

One last thing before we dive into the news: I know we’re finally free from the onslaught of midterm election mailers in our mailbox, but now we need to put our attention on this important call to action from Foodwise: “The Market Match program, which doubles the purchasing power of CalFresh EBT benefits at farmers markets across California, is under threat. Funding for Market Match was not included in the Governor’s proposed 2026-27 state budget. Without funding, this vital program could disappear—and with it, the fresh, local food access that so many families in our community depend on. Amid sweeping federal cuts to SNAP, Market Match is needed more than ever.

“Market Match is a triple win: Every time a Market Match dollar is spent at a farmers market, it contributes to a local farmer’s livelihood, nourishes a family in need, and supports our regional economies. Statewide, Market Match represented $25 million in fresh, healthy food for CalFresh shoppers and income for small farms last year alone.

The deadline for California’s legislature to finalize the budget is June 15, which means the next couple of weeks are critical. Here’s how you can help. It takes just a few minutes!
- WRITE to Governor Newsom and Budget Leaders (less than 1 minute)
- CALL Governor Newsom and Budget Leaders (high impact! and online tool makes it easy for you)
- POST on social media and SHARE this email with friends, family, and anyone who cares about local farms, healthy communities, and economic equity

Thank you for standing up for Market Match, for our farmers, and for every family that deserves access to fresh, nutritious food.”

Thanks for showing up in all the ways you do.
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Subscriber Exclusive: A First Look at Bar Malone’s, a New SoMa Neighborhood Bar from Industry Pros

Softly open now in the former District on Townsend in SoMa (which closed in 2025, after a respectable 18-year run) is Bar Malone’s. This stylish cocktail bar was designed to serve the neighborhood with high hospitality from local restaurant and bar industry veterans: longtime friends and business partners Gabriel Freiberg and Eric Passetti (Natoma Cabana and Yerba Buena Bar).

Soft-opening hours are Tue–Sat 3pm–10pm, extending soon until midnight Thu–Sat. Bar bites will be available 3pm–5pm, and eventually after 10pm. Sunday brunch and dinner will be coming in July. Follow @BarMalones for updates. 216 Townsend St.

Noodle in a Haystack Sadly Closes Its Doors on Geary, But Will Open a New Door at Thrive City: Mazé by Noodle in a Haystack

Friends and regulars of the almost-impossible-to-book Noodle in a Haystack have been coming into the Outer Richmond restaurant to say farewell to the ramen-centered tasting menu and highly personal hospitality from husband-and-wife owners Clint and Yoko Tan as they wrap up their past three-plus years in their hard-won location. They were previously hosting a pop-up out of their Daly City home—I wrote about the many challenges of their restaurant opening at 4601 Geary Boulevard for Nob Hill Gazette in 2022. 

I reached out a couple weeks ago to find out why they were closing, which felt a bit unexpected in light of the amazing accolades they have been receiving from The New York Times, Bon Appétit, Michelin, and more. Clint shared they couldn’t maintain the overextended pace they’ve been holding for the past 10 years, and “finally got some opportunities we couldn’t turn down.” He mentioned they were “planning 1 or 2 or maybe 3 new restaurants and we just needed to step away so we can focus on the new projects.”

I couldn’t get any more info from him, and now, the first of those projects has just been revealed: Mazé by Noodle in a Haystack will be opening in Thrive City late this year. They’re launching this modern ramen concept in partnership with Vine Hospitality and CEO Alistair Levine (Left Bank, Petite Left Bank, LB Steak, and Meso Modern Mediterranean). 

The press release states: “Mazé is derived from the Japanese word meaning “to mix” or “to blend,” paired with Men, meaning “noodle.” Together, the name refers to a style of ramen focused on mixing noodles with sauces, oils, toppings, and textures before enjoyment.”

Over the past decade, the couple has been obsessively developing and finessing recipes showcasing various styles of ramen, crafting their own style of modern ramen that blends Japanese inspiration and Californian influences, from their iconic yuzu shio ramen (versions 1.0, 2.0, and 3.0!), to duck shoyu, to tsukemen, to XO tori paitan, to A5 wagyu abura soba, plus their riffs on dry-style (brothless) mazemen, which is what they’ll be highlighting in this fast-casual location (their spicy maze tan tan men is incredible). The mazemen will be served alongside small plates (here’s hoping for their deviled eggs) and desserts. 

Stand by for more details as the project gets closer to opening. Best wishes to Clint and Yoko on this new chapter of their noodle journey.

News Bites: Piedays, Goop Kitchen, New Omakase Takeout Boxes, Monday Dinners

Cawfee Tawk: New Openings, What’s Coming Soon, and an Anniversary 

Over in Oakland: this week is the third anniversary of The Caffè by Mr. Espresso, and, of course, they’ve been featuring all kinds of new drink collaborations with local chefs and makers, plus sweet treats and pastry pop-ups to pair with them, including a gelato flight this weekend with Patrizia Pasqualetti. 1120 Broadway, Oakland.

Closures Include a Couple Neighborhood Old-Timers

I was surprised and sad to learn that OG sushi mainstay, Restaurant Eiji in the Castro, has closed after 20 years. Chef-owner Eiji Onoda has retired, and many regulars will miss the ikebana arrangements by his wife, Hidemi. Known for their housemade oboro tofu (with a fun presentation of toppings) and famed strawberry mochi for dessert, I always thought Eiji had some of the best aji (Spanish mackerel) and kohada when it was in season. It was such a homey and humble little spot that delivered quality without pretense—they hosted so many first dates! Best wishes to the couple on their next chapter. (At least Sam Smith was able to check it out right before it closed at the end of March.) 317 Sanchez St.

Another neighborhood mainstay has closed after 25 years: Lupa Trattoria in Noe Valley. Roman chef-owner Stefano Coppola served hearty portions of lasagna and housemade pappardelle with lamb at neighborhood-friendly prices. There is already a taker for the space: an ABC license transfer lists Michael Ho of Perilla, who has a location of his fast-casual Vietnamese concept in the Lower Haight, serving all kinds of proteins (like five-spice chicken) with garlic noodles and imperial rolls. (The original Perilla is on Irving Street, but lists a different owner.) 4109 24th St.

Eater SF reported Ayesha Curry and Michael Mina’s International Smoke in the Millennium Tower has closed. After renovating the space, The Mina Group will be opening Neighborhood Test Kitchen in its place in the fall, hosting rotating chefs and concepts every four to six months. 301 Mission St.

Alix Wall reports in the J. Weekly that Super Mensch in the Marina closed this past weekend after eight months. Chef-partner Adam Rosenblum told J.: “We thought we had the answers to put a full-service restaurant into a 500-square-foot space with no hood and tried everything we know how to make it work. But at the end of the day, we weren’t able to accomplish it to meet our standards.” People will still be able to order off the Super Mensch menu for private events in the space or catering. 2336 Chestnut St.

the socialite

Celebrate and Explore Over 25 Black-Owned Businesses at Juneteenth on the Waterfront This Sunday

This Sunday June 7th is the sixth annual Pop-Ups on the Plaza: Juneteenth on the Waterfront at the Ferry Plaza in front of the San Francisco Ferry Building (9am–2pm). This year’s event will take place on a Sunday to accommodate more vendors and activities than ever before. 

This free community event will celebrate with 25+ local and Black-owned, food-and-craft businesses, such as Gumbo Social, The Final Sauce, A Girl Named Pinky, Lil Alijo’s, and more (reading through the lineup is going to give you some serious hunger pangs). There’s also a craft market featuring Black designers from the Fillmore-based In The Black marketplace, free cooking demos with chefs Nelson German and Andréa Lawson Gray (from Caribbean Cocktails:Drinks and Bites from the Afro-Latino Diaspora), and Tatiana Thomas, plus family activities, live music, and more.

Juneteenth on the Waterfront is part of a month of festivities in San Francisco surrounding Juneteenth National Independence Day (June 19th), including celebrations in the Fillmore (June 14th), Bayview (June 21st), and the Juneteenth Parade (June 20th).

Pride in SF Is Going to Have You Busy All Month

OK, gang, Pride month is here, and the City is poppin’ with events, special menus, fundraisers, marches, vigils, and more, leading up to the 56th Annual San Francisco Pride Parade on Sunday June 28th, 2026. We protest and we party, we protect and we celebrate. Be sure to pack your wallet with cash money all month—tip the queens and your bartenders, honey.

Already underway this week is the return of the SF Queer Art & Music Festival, featuring nightly events like comedy, drag, DJ Stanley Frank at Rye, cocktails at Propagation, and Tokimonsta at Jones! Through June 7th.

Last night was the First Thursday art walk in the TenderNob, and Rosebud Gallery is featuring their third annual Affordable Pride Show, with work from 100 queer artists, and all artwork is priced $399 and under. The exhibition is up through June 26th. 839 Larkin St.

Enjoy some color therapy all Pride month at Nightbird, where chef Kim Alter is showcasing a color of the rainbow in each course of her June tasting menu, like pink rhubarb with elderflower, and red raspberry and beets with squab. A portion of the menu’s proceeds will be donated to The Trevor Project, the leading suicide prevention and crisis intervention nonprofit organization for LGBTQ+ young people. 

Pictured above is one of chef Kim’s reflection courses from her ‘Sustainably Spring’ menu—she uses local ingredients from the previous course in the subsequent course to reduce waste. The tart shell is made with juice from carrot trimmings, and filled with chopped chamomile-poached lobster and fava beans, garnished with sliced apricot to reflect the smoked apricot purée from the prior course.

There are only a few tickets left for the Big Gay Dumpling Party at 18 Reasons with chef Henry Hsu this Saturday June 6th (6pm–10pm). You’ll learn how to make rainbow dumplings with a variety of fillings from scratch, and you get to feast on the fruits of your labor at the end. And on Saturday June 20th, there are a few spots left for the Friends and Family Pride Pop Up with chef Gaby Maeda (formerly State Bird Provisions) and Blake Cole, with bites (Les Eggs will be there!), drinks, dishes, and desserts.

Next Saturday June 13th, Starbelly in the Castro will host its Bacon & Leggs Drag Brunch, featuring performances hosted by Bobby Friday, and they’re pouring a limited-time Aperol Spritz: Pride Edition with edible glitter (it should look fabulous in your teeth). Proceeds will support local LGBTQ+ nonprofit Queer LifeSpace. Reserve here.

This June, probably the busiest queen I can think of is Juanita MORE!, who’s hosting and attending MORE! events than most people go to in a year. A tireless philanthropist, Miss MORE! has helped raise over $1.5 million for local San Francisco charities, and this year, the beneficiary of her annual Pride party and numerous Pride events is the GLBT Historical Society. Founded in 1985, the GLBT Historical Society is a global leader in LGBTQ+ public history, often called the “queer Smithsonian.” The Society collects, preserves, exhibits, and makes accessible to the public materials and knowledge to support and promote understanding of LGBTQ+ history, culture, and arts in all their diversity.

Have you ever been to the GLBT Historical Society Museum in the Castro? It’s full of incredible ephemera, including a piece of one of the two original rainbow flags by Gilbert Baker with eight stripes, first raised on June 25th, 1978, in United Nations Plaza at the San Francisco Gay Freedom Day Parade. Go visit.

Starting this week, Miss MORE! launched the return of her FLOOR21 happy hours (which she first hosted 10 years ago!) at Starlite at the Beacon Grand Hotel. Every Thursday in June, you can enjoy the gorgeous view, performances and music from top SF talent (including Dulce De Leche, Mary Vice, Miss Rahni, Sir Joq), and specialty cocktails by Scott Baird and guest queer bartenders. A portion of the proceeds from the series and 25 percent of proceeds from every Juanita MORE! cocktail sold (a spin on a blackberry smash) will benefit the GLBT Historical Society, her partner in the monthlong series.

Every Thursday in June, 5pm–7pm (reserve your spot here). Limited walk-in availability. No cover. All-vinyl DJs will take over and keep things going until 11pm. 450 Powell St, 21st floor.

Then, on Sunday June 21st, MORE! is hosting a Pride kickoff/Sunday’s a Drag brunch and dance party (with DJs David Harness and Cupcake), with a special menu/culinary pop-up by chef Tucker Ricchio, Bay Area native, winner of Season 2 of Next Level Chef, and currently part of the team at two-Michelin-starred Acquerello. The menu includes a deviled egg flight, a spin on fried chicken and waffles, pork belly bites, caviar service, and MORE! 12pm–4pm. Table reservations; GA/standing reservations.

The annual Stories from Home collaboration of Juanita MORE! at MERKADO will be Wednesday June 17th, coming together to celebrate Pride and support the GLBT Historical Society. Enjoy a family dinner with the community, featuring Juanita’s menu items: the MOREburger, which combines her mother’s poblano chile relleno and love of a late-night burger, and her dreamy tres leches cake, plus DJ Miguelitooo, performances by Xochitl and Juannina Million, cocktails, and cackles! It’s a good time. Reserve here. 130 Townsend St.

And then there’s Miss MORE!’s annual Pride Party, which she has been hosting at 620 Jones since 2012. It’s always such a blowout, packed with performances, great DJs, décor, and is my favorite reunion of SF party people. It sells out, so get your advance tickets (while they last) at the treasured indie shop locations listed here ($60 cash). Tickets will be available at the door on the day of the event. 12pm–7pm.

Something new this year: activist Alex U. Inn and Juanita MORE! announced that the People’s March & Rally, in partnership with Indivisible San Francisco, San Francisco Dyke March, SF Dykes on Bikes® WMC, and SF Pride, will host the Trans Ally Rally, where everyone will march and rally on Pride Saturday (June 27th) to stand up for and celebrate the trans community. It starts at Embarcadero Plaza (Market St. and Steuart) at 10am, marching at 10:30am, and ending at Civic Center at the People’s March Stage for a rally, with live music and performances, all proudly supported by The Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence. (12pm–5pm)

I’ll be sharing more Pride events, special dishes and drinks, and ways to support and show up for the community in the coming weeks!

the sugar mama

You Could Be Happy: Enter to Win Guest List Action to See Paul Oakenfold and The Crystal Method at The Regency Ballroom This Saturday!

Is it 1995? Nope, it’s 2026, and Paul Oakenfold and The Crystal Method are stopping by and going off at The Regency Ballroom in San Francisco for their coast-to-coast United Champions Tour (now with Liquid Todd) this Saturday June 6th. 

I have one pair of tickets to give away to the show (doors at 7pm, show at 8pm, 18+).

the starlet

what’s cookin’

Howdy, hoppers. And wow, it’s Friday evening. Hellllloooooo, short week! Thanks for bearing with me on the late send this week. After the much-needed long weekend (we really need to make those a regular thang), which included such a fun day at BottleRock (read more below), I had a personal matter to attend to this week that took priority over everything. I’ll be back with the news in next week’s column (which will also be on the late train since I’m attending my great Aunt Helen’s memorial service in Sacramento on Monday). Sometimes, you just gotta take things one day at a time.

For today’s column, I have the remainder of my New York City jetsetter recap for you rad supporting subscribers (wait until you see Le Veau d’Or!). Don’t read this if you’re hungry.

A few notes before we take another bite of The Big Apple: 

-Cheers, baby: this weekend is Wine Fare!

-Fridays are better with pizza from Fatty Natty.

-Saturdays are all about peaches and cherries from the Foodwise Ferry Plaza farmers market.

-This Saturday afternoon/evening, my friends behind Werkbird are frying chicken at El Rio for EW.

-Have a look at Matthew Kang’s report on the North America’s 50 Best Restaurants list reveal ceremony last night (O Canada!). The New York Times also shares a little context on the list, as well as their own take on The 25 Best Restaurants in San Francisco Right Now (25 places is impossible to whittle down to, but there are a lot of recently opened gems missing).

-I am beside myself with pure unbridled joy that Despacio is returning to Portola Music Festival this September 26th–27th. Thank you, disco heavens for that alignment! (I like to think Sylvester had something to do with it.) Although I’m sure the lineup of Robyn, DJ Shadow celebrating 30 years of Endtroducing…, Soulwax, Tricky, Four Tet, Groove Armada, Parcels, and Fcukers will all be amazing, for me, nothing compares to being in Despacio. I will be in that tent the entire weekend.

You can read my recap from last year’s Portola of this life-changing, soul-affirming, and incomparable musical experience (which I ended up chasing to iii Points at Miami a month later for another ride, it was that moving). Take a look at the incredible gallery of images from iii Points that Babycakes Romero just dropped, and you’ll see a few pics of yours truly having the time of her goddamn life with her Big Despacio Fan and wingwoman sister-from-another-mister, Diamond Lil. There are some swell behind-the-scenes peeks in that post, too. What a banquet.

I swore to myself I would never miss another Despacio, no matter when and where it was happening, and lucky me/us, it’s gonna be in our backyard once again. It’s such a gift. Don’t miss it. (Read my friend Vlad’s post on Magical Dancefloors for even more convincing and deep Despacio storytelling.) 

Tickets for Portola are on sale Tuesday June 2nd at 12pm. Party People Loyalty Presale for past Portola purchasers starts on Monday June 1st at 12pm. Register! And to my dear disco friends, I better see you on the dance floor. I mean it. You’ve heard me talk about this so much. POSSE UP. Despacio is happiness, something we all need in spades right now.

-In the meantime, don’t miss Total Accord Fest in June, The Seshen and Brijean are playing! And the prices are right.

-Book your reservation for Welly Wednesdays at Dingles.

-Please don’t tell me it’s true, this post says that Held Over on Haight is closing. It’s (reportedly) SF’s oldest vintage store, since 1978. An absolute gem of our vintage scene. Nooooooo. No!

-Don’t forget to vote on Tuesday! At this point, drop your ballot off in person at a drop box or polling place, don’t try to mail it.

Have a swell weekend. Glad it’s already here.

XO
~Marcia

the jetsetter

New York City: Part Two

This second installment of my springtime trip to New York covers a couple iconic French bistros that could only exist in New York, plus some tasty heroes, and a damn good slice. Supporting subscribers can read part one here. 

Besides Bartolo, the other restaurant that was top of my New York must-visit list was Le Veau d’Or (129 E. 60th St.), an Upper East Side/Lenox Hill restaurant that first opened in 1937, and was recently taken over and given a loving and respectful update from restaurateurs Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson (Frenchette, Le Rock), which reopened in 2024.

Step inside and it feels like a time capsule from 1930’s Paris or a century-old Lyonnaise bouchon. It’s the oldest French bistro in New York City, which used to draw customers like Ernest Hemingway, Marlene Dietrich, Grace Kelly, and Oleg Cassini (a current obsession of mine). As a lover of vintage restaurants and cuisine and history, I couldn’t wait to dine there. 

Hope to see you again soon, New York. I won’t let so much time pass next time—you really fill my cup.

the socialite

I Love Rock ’n’ Roll: Daytripping to BottleRock

Last weekend, it was so much fun to return to BottleRock, even for just a day—the last time I attended, it was in 2015 to see Robert Plant! Yeah, things have definitely changed. I drove up on Saturday to meet up with some longtime friends, and after a couple small snafus with parking and media check-in, I still managed to catch the last half of Joan Jett and the Blackhearts’ set.

Damn, she is my new spirit animal, such a boss punk babe at 67. Whatever she’s doing, it’s working. Crimson and clover, over and over.

I’m so glad my music-head friend made sure I knew about Midnight Generation, an electro-funk-disco band (with some vintage synth-heavy and prog rock influences) from Chihuahua, Mexico. Their live set was so groovy and fun, they totally got us movin’. Would love to see them again. Don’t miss their tour!

MG was a terrific warmup to LCD Soundsystem on the main stage. It was a full-on dance party, thanks to them playing some of their older tracks (“Tribulations,” “Movement,” “Yr City’s a Sucker,” “On Repeat”) for the longtime fans who like to rock out (yeah, me), and I’m always happy to party to Sound of Silver (“Time to Get Away,” and “North American Scum” was the perfect choice for the moment right now), and they also gave the kids what they wanted (“All My Friends”), as well as “Dance Yrself Clean” and “Home.” Shut up and play the hits! 

Singer-keyboardist Nancy Whang just gets cooler every time I see her play. Personally, I think James Murphy (who was wearing a baseball cap, weird) was a little miffed they weren’t the closing headliner for the day—he kept on adding odd banter like he was some strange, off-Broadway cabaret act that the band would be wrapping up soon enough, and he was grateful for everyone in the crowd who was sticking it out, since they were just killing time for the Foo Fighters. Um, no.

We capped off the day on a side stage and went back almost 30 years in a hip-hop time machine with Arrested Development, serving up “Give a Man a Fish” and “Mr. Wendal” with a much-needed side of political commentary about ICE and how the current administration is taking voting rights away. Preach, Speech! Raise those fists in the air!

The BottleRock crowd reflects the lineup: eclectic and across all ages. I dig it. We got lucky with the weather (it was a perfect low-to-mid 70s on Saturday), and the real and synthetic turf throughout the festival grounds makes for a pleasant experience (barely any dust and dirt). I was happy to discover they were pouring a pleasant sparkling wine from Emmolo at the general drink stands (this is what happens when you host a festival in Napa Valley)—I wish Outside Lands and Portola did this. Give us the bubbles everywhere!

As for the food lineup, I had limited time to check things out since I was just there for the afternoon, but the team at Under-Study in St. Helena kindly invited us (thank you!) to swing by their disco-ball-outfitted booth to try their popular lobster corn dog with remoulade and a healthy serving of Tsar Nicoulai caviar ($34). While it’s deserving of its festival fame, as a BottleRock-experienced friend predicted, the real winner is the pretzel and crab dip ($22): the buttery and seeded pretzel was made like pain d’épi, so clever, and the smoked onion dip was reminiscent of the one we all know and love (break out the Ruffles), but with the luxe addition of Dungeness crab. The ahi tuna nachos ($22) needed some work—the toppings were sparse and oddly cut, so they didn’t quite come together for that nacho magic. I should have returned for their nitro French fry soft-serve—next time! 🍦

Become a tablehopper supporting subscriber and don’t miss a bite!

what’s cookin’

Good day, sunshine. What a wonderful start to the week with this weather! I feel like my past weekend in Forestville was my kickoff to summer: I got to float down the Russian River on my friends’ party raft that comfortably fit four of us, we enjoyed alfresco brunch and epic snack boards on my friends’ sunny deck, and had a dreamy wine tasting under an old walnut tree at Porter-Bass Winery (just outside of downtown Guerneville) while learning the history of the land and the vines. 

Saturday was a total blast: we headed into Healdsburg for The Vintners Plaza Grand Tasting during the annual Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience. I stuck with bubbles for most of the day (I know, shocking), and had fun trying some N/A selections (the single-origin sparkling teas from Susurrus were a standout, as well as the verjus-based elderflower and yuzu sparkling from Glasrose). 

The food was extra-tasty this year: we noshed on decadent o’toro handrolls with uni and caviar from Hotel del Coronado in San Diego (and now I really want to go there!), wood-roasted mortadella meatballs from Stella Kenwood, incredible Westholme wagyu brisket smoked over red wine barrel staves and almond wood from A&M BBQ in Sebastopol, The Pasta Queen’s Devil’s Kiss rigatoni, and chicken Parm ravioli with roasted garlic tomato butter, three-cheese fonduta, and chicken skin crumble from chef Joe Sasto and Ian Tecklin’s Ripi Foods (I need the entire line in my freezer).

The mind-blowing finale at the end of the day was the aloha affogato from chef Lee Ann Wong of Koko Head Cafe (in Honolulu, Tokyo, and Osaka) with local Mariapilar coconut gelato, sweet Maui Gold pineapple, salted coconut rum caramel, macadamia coconut crumble, topped with a Kona espresso martini shot. I knowwwww! It was unbelievably delicious.

It was fun to run into chef Roland Passot and his lovely wife, Jamie, as well as longtime industry pals, like Scott Beattie (serving his special floral ice at the Rue de Rêve table), and getting a hug from my old friend Walter Moore, as well as from dedicated tablehopper subscriber and friend Adam (of Fog City News). Everyone was watching Festus Ezeli roam the festival (at 6'11", you really can’t miss him), and shoutout to Graffeo for keeping us caffeinated. Save the date: next year’s HWFE is May 20th–23rd, 2027! 

This weekend, I’m heading back up to Wine Country, this time on the Napa Valley side for BottleRock (you know I can’t miss seeing LCD Soundsystem—and Nancy Whang will be playing in the roller rink on Saturday). It’s not just the musical lineup that attendees are looking at: the just-announced 2026 Williams Sonoma Culinary Stage lineup includes Emeril and EJ Lagasse, José Andrés, Curtis Stone, Andrew Zimmern, Masaharu Morimoto, Evan Funke, Bryan and Michael Voltaggio, and The Pasta Queen, along with Chelsea Handler (I hope to run into her so we can exchange gummies, LOL), Phil Rosenthal, Ashley Graham, and John Stamos (how eclectic). KCBS Foodie Chap Liam Mayclem is gonna be bizzeeee emceeing the culinary stage.

The food lineup includes Napa restaurants like PRESS (and Under-Study), Mustards Grill, A16, Slanted Door Napa, Taqueria Rosita, La Toque, Stateline Road Smokehouse, Carabao, Torc, Oenotri, Empress M, and Boon Fly Café. Popsicles from Fruta Ice Cream seem like a must, as well as trying the signature mango float from Carabao. I’ll be hitting up Schramsberg Vineyards for some bubs, and I’m curious about the N/A beers from Athletic Brewing Company. All festival tickets are sold out, but to get on the waiting list for tickets, select “Join the Waitlist.” Hope to see you there!

This week, I was planning to run part two of my New York City jetsetter post for you, but I had a bunch of news bites and events to cover. This newsletter got too long. Stand by! Next week, I will also be sharing some SF PRIDE events to have on your radar.

Before signing off, I want to link to this obituary for the visionary Bob Vorhees, who was behind iconic SF projects in the ’90s, like South Park Cafe, Ristorante Ecco, Citizen Cake, and Universal Cafe. Thanks for the memories! I’m writing about a couple new projects near South Park in today’s column, so it’s good to see some businesses open over there—that area used to be so cool.

Anyway, here’s wishing you a good three-day weekend (tablehopper will go out a bit later next week). Just a reminder: you have one more week to visit the 2026 San Francisco Decorator Showcase. And the 48th annual San Francisco Carnaval takes place this Memorial Day weekend.

Have fun,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Casa Sofia Opens This Thursday (Just in Time for the SF Giants Home Games This Weekend)

I previously mentioned Casa Sofia Kitchen and Bar is coming to SoMa in the former The Brixton from chef Carlos Altamirano and his wife and partner, Shu Altamirano, and it’s opening this Thursday May 21st. Here are more dishes that are on his menu of California cuisine with Latin American influences from Peru, Mexico, and Argentina: Sofia’s meatballs with Mexican mole; ceviche peruano with halibut, rocoto chile, choclo, and long, sweet potato chips; arroz con mariscos with octopus, shrimp, clams, mussels, and fish in saffron aji rice; and easy-to-share plates like raw oysters, housemade empanadas, baby BBQ pork ribs, fried chicken, anticuchos, and a seafood tower with tuna, oysters, kampachi, shrimp, octopus, and mussels.

Desserts from Edgar Valenzuela include lavender honey–glazed crullers, guava cheesecake, arroz con leche brûlée with Peruvian rice pudding, Key lime pie, and rotating ice cream made in house. Cocktails from Yuri Chauca are focused around rum, pisco, cachaça and mezcal, including a caipirinha de gengibre with cachaça, lime, fresh ginger, muddled basil, and sugar (I was drinking these every day on the beach in Ipanema, so good), alongside the Rabo de Galo, with aged cachaça, sweet vermouth, Fernet Branca, Angostura and orange bitters.

The well-appointed and airy 146-seat space was designed by Jon de la Cruz, taking some inspiration from traditional Latin American fondas (with tiled floors, a patio surrounded by lush greenery, and a mural in the dining room), adding custom woodwork and wallpaper, channel-tufted upholstered booths, and two private dining spaces (Sofia’s Room for 40 guests and a 12-seat chef’s table). Open Tue–Thu and Sun 11am–9pm, and Fri–Sat 11am–10pm. 701 2nd St. at Townsend.

Let’s Get Baked: Saltwater Bakeshop Now Open in SoMa, Flour & Branch Has a New Home, and Loquat Is Opening a Sequel

Our city’s embedded bakery reporter, Becky Duffett, wrote about the unexpected opening of the first brick-and-mortar location of Saltwater Bakeshop in SoMa in the former Chantal Guillon Macarons (owner and baker Brittany Dunn Holden had to abandon her original Richmond bakery-café location after permitting snafus and endless delays). For the current soft opening, the menu includes croissants (classic, almond, ham and Point Reyes Toma cheese, and chocolate-pistachio), an orange blossom cardamom bun, passionfruit kouign amann, mochi muffins, seasonal cakes and Danishes, and chocolate chunk cookies, plus baguettes, and all kinds of sourdough bread (country, seeded, whole wheat, sunflower oat porridge, spelt and cornmeal). There’s also the baker’s choice: a smaller, organic sourdough loaf in a seasonal flavor (the spring flavor is four cheese with garlic confit fougasse).

After the grand opening on Saturday May 30th, there will be even more pastries, espresso drinks from Ritual Coffee, spiced chai, and sandwiches (from a breakfast BEC to lunchtime baguettes with turkey, avocado, and pickled onions). Saltwater Bakeshop will continue their farmers’ market appearances. Hours: Tue–Fri 7am–3pm, Sat–Sun 8am–3pm. 1309 Howard St. at 9th St.

More bakery news: after closing the original location of Flour & Branch (493 3rd St.) reportedly due to “severe flooding and building failures at her leased location, prolonged disputes related to landlord negligence,” owner and baker Lauren Arnsdorff is reopening in the former Velvet Raven space on South Park on Wednesday June 3rd. (UPDATE: The opening has been pushed to late June, I will keep you posted.)

More New Openings in West Portal

tablehopper reader Barron L., my new West Portal stringer, shared this report:

Claws of Mantis Launches This Weekend at Fat Cat

Get excited: this weekend (Friday May 22nd–25th) is the grand opening for chef Kevin Tang of Claws of Mantis—fresh from his trip to Saigon—as a co-op inside of Fat Cat wine bar in La Lengua in the Mission (which I was first to write about back in March). He’s been doing a soft run this past week at some private events for friends and family, and the menu looks so sick!

Claws kitchen hours (for now) are Fri–Mon 5pm–10pm. 3215 Mission St. at Fair.

Coming Soon to Noe Valley

Cawfee Tawk

Last month, I attended a special presentation of a World Coffee Championship competition routine at The Wild Fox by 2025 Denmark Barista Champion Christopher Sahyoun Hoff, who placed sixth in the 2025 World Coffee Championship in Milan, Italy. It was a rare opportunity to experience a World Coffee Championship routine since these drinks are almost never served to the public—they’re created exclusively for judges during the World Coffee Championships. I learned the coffees themselves are exceptionally rare micro-lots, sourced through direct relationships, grown specifically for competition rather than normal consumption, and roasted for performance rather than commercial release.

In this case, they were hand-picked Wush Wush beans (an heirloom variety from Ethiopia) from Finca La Negrita in Colombia; we also got a 50g bag of this World Barista Championship coffee (which costs $70/lb.) to bring home to try pulling shots of (but were told to wait five weeks before doing so).

It was a unique experience to be seated at the counter of The Wild Fox on a weekend afternoon alongside eight local baristas and restaurant industry folks, watching Hoff painstakingly prepare an espresso shot, a milk beverage, and a signature beverage for each of us, presented like we were judges.

Would you like to check something like this out? The Wild Fox owners (and married couple) Liza Otanes and Rich Lee (of Spro Coffee Lab) are hosting Kay Cheon (the 2025 United States Barista Champion, and he placed eighth in the 2025 World Barista Championship in Milan, Italy) on Saturday June 6th and Sunday June 7th. Cheon will present his competition routine (an espresso course, a milk course, and a signature beverage), with a Q&A after, and there’s a gift bag (an exclusive coffee offering from Parterre). Tickets are $225, with various time slots each day—don’t be late. If you work in the coffee industry, they’d love to host you (email info@thewildfoxsf.com for industry access). 

Speaking with Lee (who’s a San Francisco native, and a world judge in coffee, which takes nine years to become), he shared he’s very hopeful for SF’s current comeback story, and was thrilled to host Hoff (he pitched the idea for him to come to SF). Lee was hoping Hoff’s visit could help build excitement and positivity about San Francisco, and shared his “hidden agenda” is to use coffee as a tool to invite people to come here to do things, and inspire people to travel to SF. In the words of our Mayor, “Let’s go, San Francisco!”

If the upcoming competition routine is out of your budget, you can just visit the café to try The Wild Fox’s Japanese espresso drinks and pour-overs, ceremonial matcha and tea, and menu of Japanese bites (onigiri, sandos) and small plates from chef Tsubasa Onozaki (previously Liholiho Yacht Club). Open Mon–Fri 7am–5pm. 123 Battery St.

the sponsor

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the lush

Back in March, I wrote about Wine Fare from The Vinguard on Saturday May 30th (1pm–5pm) and Sunday May 31st (12pm–4pm) at Catharine Clark Gallery (248 Utah St.). Over 51 winemakers and importers will be featuring hundreds of wines made by women in the natural wine movement, including Champagne Lelarge-Pugeot, Floraison Selections, Terah Wine Co., and T’Amaro Brands Inc. It’s a fantastic event! $60/day, $95 for both days.

There are a few special ticket offers happening: get an annual $125 membership to The Vinguard (a diverse LGBTQ-led organization with a proven track record of effecting social change in the wine industry) and get a complimentary ticket to Wine Fare, a $95 value.

If you purchase a ticket for Sunday May 31, you can get a second one at half-off: that’s two tickets for $75. Just go to the Wine Fare ticket link and look for “WF Sunday 5/31, buy 1, get 1 at half price.”

Or, if you work in the beverage or food industry, they’re offering $25 tickets per day. Just go to the link and use the promo code WineFoodTrade. Please bring a business card from your workplace.

Don’t miss the silent auction, with 30-plus auction items (dinners, special wines, experiences), happening now through May 31st at 11:45pm. 

SF AAPI Cocktail Week Kicks Off This Sunday May 24th, Plus AAPI Celebration Events at Nisei and Bar Iris

The fourth year of SF AAPI Cocktail Week is Sunday May 24th–28th, with more than 12 events and 40+ bar and restaurant partners from across the U.S. and Asia (many are recognized as some of the World’s 50 Best Bars), including Bar Us (Bangkok, Thailand), Penrose (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia), Alice Cheongdam (Seoul, South Korea), and Night Hawk (Singapore). You can take a look at the events here and here, from a sunset luau to a mix masters competition to trade-only events. 

The 2026 AAPI Celebration Series from Nisei and Bar Iris continues, with a Dalla Valle Vineyards vertical tasting (May 28th) with rare wines and a guided Q&A; a two-night collaboration with chef Dae Kim (most recently Nōksu) May 30th–31st; and a one-night takeover at Bar Iris from New York’s Sip & Guzzle (on June 1st), recently named No. 1 bar in North America. Throughout the month, five percent of dinner proceeds from Nisei will be donated to Bay Resistance.

the archivist

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what’s cookin’

Happy Wednesday (which reminds me of the Happy Wednesdays weekly acid house party with DJ Joey Beltram that I used to go to in the early ’90s in Redondo Beach, and I can’t believe I just found an article in the L.A. Times about it!). Bless the online archives.

Yes, yours truly is gonna rave to the grave. On Saturday night, it was a dancing double play, starting at Club Darc at Pier 48 for a groovy set by DJ Harvey (although, hilariously, the only thing dark was the sticker they made us put over our phone camera—the warehouse was cool, but the overhead lighting was way too bright). If you want to enter to win pair of tickets to see Underworld this weekend, don’t miss the sugar mama today (below!). 

After Harvey’s set wrapped, we skedaddled on over to the Great Northern for Om Records’ 30th anniversary night party, a label that has been part of my SF soundtrack for almost all of the 31 years I have lived here. It was such an SF reunion on the friendly dance floor: I ran into club kids I used to dance with at Universe, friends from the early years of Burning Man, and my advertising days—what a fun blast of community and older SF party people who came out to boogie.

But, Dear Great Northern, how much longer do we have to suffer on that swampy AF dance floor? There’s no ventilation and I always die when it’s a packed night. I brought a fan and people were begging me to fan their faces. It’s way past time to install some serious overhead fans, come ON. Love, ~me

More quick notes on anniversaries: I just noticed that Suppenküche is turning 33 and holding a 90s party with DJ Hardkiss this Friday, and Sushi Ran is turning 40! Their anniversary dinners on May 13th and 20th are sold out, but be sure to wish Taka a happy anniversary the next time you’re there.

On Sunday, we had a beautiful Mother’s Day family brunch at Crustacean—Mom loved the elegant dining room and the light, flavorful dishes. Standouts included the crispy chicken rolls, the caviar and crispy langoustine roll, and whole branzino (I wish the recipe was in the An: To Eat cookbook, that sauce is magic). Of course, everyone swooned over the AN’s famous garlic-roasted Dungeness crab and the garlic noodles. Thanks to the team for making the off-menu [supporting subscribers get the dish!] for us—it’s such an unexpected winner of a dish. Special brunch items included an ube pancake with matcha Chantilly, and the luxe “boh koh” wagyu beef hash. Here’s hoping they host future brunches—what a chic setting for a daytime celebration.

We also raised our glasses of Champagne to our dear and sparkly Great Auntie Helen, AKA Helzi, my grandmother’s vivacious younger sister, who just left us last week at the extraordinary age of 94. Those two glamorous dames are back together, drinking the good stuff in heaven’s VIP room, with all their beloved dogs sitting on their laps. I’m dedicating this week’s newsletter to her memory—Auntie Helen had great taste and loved art and really enjoyed her wine and cocktails. Such a brassy bon vivant. Her warm laugh will be missed. To Helzi! 🍸

This week, I’m taking a step back from reporting on a bunch of local restaurant news so I could write up part one of my highlights from my recent jaunt to New York City. (I’ll have part two for you next week, it got too long!) This trip was my tablehopper 20th anniversary gift to myself, since no one is going to give me a gold watch or a promotion. Thanks to my supporting subscribers, who helped pay for my meals there (and enabled me to even be able to take that trip at all), so my New York jetsetter piece is behind the paywall.

I’m burning the midnight oil this week so I can clock out early to head up to Forestville to stay with some kind friends who invited me to their cabin! We’re going to take a break from floating on the river to attend this Saturday’s The Vintners Plaza Grand Tasting (it’s quite the epic tasting, with 150+ wines, beers, spirits, and bites) at the Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience. There are all kinds of lunches, dinners, musical performances, and more happening all weekend (May 14th–17th)—check out the previous sponsored event post, and that’s where you’ll find a discount code! The weather is looking gorgeous: get outta the gray and go enjoy some low 80s! 

Keep it sunny,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Gary Rulli Ends His Residency on Chestnut Street After 22 Years

After first opening Emporio Rulli Gran Caffè on Chestnut Street, and then updating the space to transform it into Ristobar in 2020, owner Gary Rulli is holding the final service for his neighborhood Italian restaurant and bar on Memorial Day (May 25th). He had some really talented chefs come through that kitchen, like Angelo Auriana, Alberto “Berto” Chan Bautista, and I remember having Michele Belotti’s casoncelli for the first time when he started there in 2011. Ristobar had a dynamic list of Italian wines, and wonderful desserts, of course. Grazie for all the Italian excellence! I’m going to miss having this SF outpost to pick up Rulli’s coffee beans and cakes since his bakery is in Larkspur. 

The press release states, “the space will continue in a new direction through a partnership with Eria Events, a Marin-based hospitality and events company led by entrepreneur Nikita Khandheria. We’ll be sharing more about the future of the space and what comes next in the coming weeks.” 2300 Chestnut St. at Scott.

Hardware Coffee Co. Opens a Two-Level Café in West Portal

Thanks to longtime tablehopper subscriber Barron L., who alerted me to the soft opening of the spacious Hardware Coffee Co. in West Portal. This is their second location, an all-day café (designed by Brittany Busacca) in the former Papenhausen Hardware store that has a mezzanine with all kinds of seating upstairs and skylights.

the jetsetter

New York City: Part One

I’m kicking myself for letting so much time pass since my last visit to New York City, which was in 2019. Don’t be like me. This recent springtime trip I had filled me with so much exhilaration and visual input and inspiration. Since I was attending the Cherry Bombe Jubilee conference, I only had four full days to explore and run around and try to catch up with friends, but I did my best! My list of things to eat and see there is always too long.

I hit up a couple museums (the beautiful Cooper Hewitt for the Art of Noise exhibit, and the Whitney Biennial), and caught Running Through Heaven: Visions of Jack Kerouac at the Grolier Club, the oldest existing bibliophilic club in North America. I strolled through Central Park admiring its springy finery, and got a kick out of watching all the people with their dogs on the Upper East Side, and the parents picking up their kids in matching uniforms from private school… There’s nothing like the people watching in New York.

My favorite color moment was spotting the fabulous Debra Rapaport in her blue shades on the subway platform (you would know her from the Advanced Style documentary and book). We had a fun chat—it ends up she lived in SF and Berkeley from 1967–1979. Icon! What a perfect New York sighting (for me).

More style: I’m so grateful a friend reminded me to not miss the new...

Next week, I’ll share part two, with French bistros, hoagies, and more!

the sugar mama

Party On, Wayne! Party On, Garth! Enter to Win Two Tickets to See Underworld at Club Darc This Saturday

This Saturday May 16th is the last night of Goldenvoice Bay Area’s inaugural season of Club Darc at Pier 48’s Shed A on McCovey Cove. The headliner is Underworld, who put on a helluva show the last time I saw them at Portola Festival. Also on deck is The Dare (DJ Set), Mall Grab B2B Effy, yaego, and Bad Juuju.

I have one pair of tickets to give away to this Saturday May 16th’s show, which runs from 7pm–2am (21+). Since I went to Club Darc this last weekend, here are some hopper tips:

the lush

Arabella’s, a New Addition to the Huntington Hotel, Has Opened to the Public

the starlet

what’s cookin’

Hello hello! I’m back in your inbox after taking a week off to enjoy my New York jaunt. There’s nothing like New York City in the springtime—it was a daily parade of tulips and wisteria and birds chirping and green trees. I have much to say about my fabulous trip, but I need to run a bunch of breaking news (and some catch-up stories) for you first, whew.

I’m going to put together a New York jetsetter piece for all you fab supporting subscribers since your support helped me dine out in New York! I can’t wait to tell you about some of the incredible meals and experiences I had, it was a helluva great trip. (Man, I needed that.) I have so many photos and stories to share, but I had to plow through the 1,500 emails I came home to first, ugh. Glad that’s over.

The whole point of heading out to NYC was to attend the 15th Cherry Bombe Jubilee, which was a whirlwind of a day, with 1,000 women to network and build community with, be inspired by, learn about their products, hear their stories, and buy their cookbooks. Go fempire! My favorite panel was The Legacy of Edna Lewis, with culinary historian Toni Tipton-Martin, who wrote the forward for The Taste of Country Cooking: 50th Anniversary Edition by Edna Lewis (out now!), with Nina Williams-Mbengue (Edna’s niece), who looked so much like her, it was breathtaking!

I totally savored the keynote conversation with the iconic-yet-publicity-shy Jody Williams and Rita Sodi (I Sodi, Via Carota, Buvette), as well as the inspiring stories from Jenny Nguyen of The Sports Bra (the country’s first sports bar dedicated exclusively to women’s sports), and the frank conversation in the Stories We Tell: Cookbooks, Substack, Social Media, and More panel, with Nasim Lahbichi, Carla Lalli, and the dynamic Ella Quittner, moderated masterfully by Radio Cherry Bombe Kerry Diamond. Good stuff.

I was especially taken with the powerful reading by Zahra Tangorra from her new book, Extra Sauce: The Good, the Bad, and the Onions, and she’s going to be at Omnivore Books on Monday May 18th in conversation with Liz Prueitt, don’t miss it!

May is AAPI Month, and I kicked things off on Sunday at the second annual Bakers & Makers Fair at Nisei (there were so many fantastic treats—they’re gonna need a bigger space next year!); be sure to take a look at Nisei’s calendar of AAPI Month happenings. I’ll have more for you on AAPI Cocktail Week in next week’s issue, but take a look at the events now if you’re interested.

Let’s get to this week’s scoops and stories—I have a lot to cover!

Boop!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Kilgore Hospitality Group Suddenly Closes All Three Restaurant Projects at Transamerica Pyramid Center

Whoa, there’s more big news coming out of the Transamerica Pyramid Center. With the recent sale in March (for $691.6 million to Cyprus-based Yoda PLC), marking the end of developer Michael Shvo’s involvement and ambitious multimillion makeover of the property, it has also led to the abrupt closure of Kilgore Hospitality Group’s three on-site restaurants.

Transamerica Pyramid tenants received this letter from JLL property management on Monday morning:

Subscriber Exclusive: First Look at a Trattoria That Just Soft-Opened

Here’s a fun supporting subscriber–only serving for you:

This Fall, Kitchen Commons Will Open in the Inner Richmond, a Culinary-Minded Place to Gather, Shop, Taste, and Learn

Back in January, I was first to write about the closure of The Spanish Table in the Inner Richmond, and now I have a scoop for you about what’s coming next in the space. Get fired up for Kitchen Commons, a retail kitchen shop geared for home cooks (with cookware, barware, cookbooks, pantry items, and more) and designed to be a community gathering space, whether you’re taking cooking classes in the evening, joining a monthly cookbook reading circle, or getting a coffee at the bar in the morning while flipping through a cookbook. 

The project is from longtime hospitality pro and SF native Jeff Hanak (a partner in Liholiho Yacht Club, Good Good Culture Club, and Nopalito), and Connor Bruce, a Bay Area native with a background in hospitality (both FOH and BOH) and marketing, who will be running the day-to-day operations. The two first met while working together at Nopalito, and both of them are avid home cooks with kids (although Jeff’s are in their 20s now). 

It’s interesting to see how much the early days of the pandemic shaped this concept: instead of being at one of his restaurants almost every night, Jeff recalls how he was suddenly home for family meals, and the experience of sitting at the table and the connection that happens there became really apparent and important to him. Connor is teaching his 3 1/2-year-old son how to cook and bake, and hosts friends often for meals.

When you cook a lot, you get a taste and feel for the best cookware, knives, tools, and pantry staples. At Kitchen Commons, they will be stocking well-made and functional products from brands like Made In, coffee tools from Slow Pour Supply, cast iron from Smithey and Field, as well as stoneware and ceramics (and more) from Hasami Porcelain, and local makers like Sarah Kersten, Jered Nelson, and Zoe Dering. There will be glassware, barware, and some vintage items as well. 

The pantry section will include shelf-stable and perishable/refrigerated items, and will also feature local purveyors. The products will align with the shop programming: imagine a week of Japanese cooking classes, and items like yuzu kosho and black sesame paste will be highlighted. Classes will have room for 15 or so—this aspect of the business will be launching after the shop opens first. Also coming later: the coffee bar, and there will be wine for sale, with wine tastings on Fridays.

Hanak—who has lived in the Inner Richmond since 2001—knows how special and vibrant the neighborhood is, from the fantastic weekly farmers’ market to all the restaurants and coffee shops and bakeries. There will be interactive programming, store activities, and gatherings to provide a space for the neighbors to come together, from food-focused talks to community conversations, as well as cooking demonstrations, and product launches. Follow their Instagram for updates: @kitchen____commons. 130 Clement St. at 3rd Ave.

The Inner Richmond Continues to Crush With the Opening of Rose Pizzeria

After stalking the new location of Rose Pizzeria in the Inner Richmond for weeks, I’m thrilled to see Alexis Rorabaugh and Gerad Gobel have opened the SF outpost of one of my favorite pizzerias in the Bay Area (which has plenty of accolades, including a place as “22 of the Best Pizza Places in the United States” by The New York Times). They took over the former Village Pizzeria, a prime location, with indoor and outdoor seating (like their place in Berkeley), but with a bunch more room. 

Take a look at their menu here, which has their killer spicy miso Caesar salad, and a couple other salad-y items, plus nine 14-inch pizzas. Their dough has a delicious leavened flavor, with a crisp-yet-tender crust with a satisfying texture, and will inspire you to eat every bite.

I love all their punchy combinations of toppings (it’s always tough to choose which pie to get), and while reading Eater SF’s early visit, I discovered they have a new style they’re offering here—tonda romana pizza—which will be even more thin and crisp, with pies like the Beach Club, a spin on a Hawaiian pizza, but with pistachio mortadella and pickled jalapeños. 

While they’re super-busy with on-site dining and takeout (it’s walk-up only for now, online ordering is coming soon), the cool thing is they launched with daytime hours (11:30am–9:15pm daily), so you have an option of planning your visit outside of primetime dinner hours. There are wines, spritzes, and tiramisù for dessert. 1 Clement St. at Arguello.

News Bites

Eater SF reported the Mission location of Hamburger Project has closed. The curse of that space continues! 598 Guerrero St.

La Cocina has appointed 13-year-veteran Aniela Valtierra as Executive Director, who succeeds Leticia Landa, who has been with the organization for 18 years, including five as Executive Director. According to the press release, “Landa approached the board herself with her intention to step down, advocated for an internal search, and will remain connected to the organization as an advisor and board member.” I’m raising my glass to both of these incredible women!

the sugar mama

Where My Party People At? Enter to Win Guest List Action for DJ Harvey and Disco Dom at Club Darc This Saturday Night!

I’ve been curious about checking out the inaugural season of Club Darc at Pier 48’s Shed A on McCovey Cove. It’s from Goldenvoice Bay Area (who are behind Portola Festival), who booked a lineup of DJ talent that kicked off in February, running through mid-May (closing with Underworld on May 16th). 

This Saturday May 9th brings one of my absolute favorite DJs evah, DJ Harvey, who always takes me on a housey Balearic disco spaceship journey, along with Disco Dom (Dombresky) and e’lish (tickets here).

I have one pair of tickets to give away to this Saturday May 9th’s show, which runs from 8:30pm–2am (21+).

the socialite

Some Ways to Spoil Mom This Weekend for Mother’s Day

This Sunday May 10th is Mother’s Day, and the weather is looking sorta springy and maybe sunny for a couple hours. I know it can be a hard day for many of you, so I’m sending some hugs and lots of love, while raising my glass to all the mothers and mother figures. I’m looking forward to bringing our Mom to the swanky new location of Crustacean San Francisco, which is hosting a special brunch that is now sold out (sowwy!).

Here’s a list of some ideas for you:

The colorful ROOH San Francisco is debuting its new weekend brunch (Saturdays and Sundays from 11:30am–2:30pm) on Mother’s Day. Executive chef Ashish Tiwari’s contemporary Indian menu includes dishes like fermented dosa waffle with sambar-spiced maple (crisp dosa waffle with coconut and heirloom tomato chutneys, finished with warm sambar-spiced maple syrup; $28). 333 Brannan St.

Can’t celebrate on Sunday? On Saturday May 9th, guests who come to Empress by Boon with their mothers or parents will enjoy the restaurant’s signature prix-fixe menu ($118) while immersing themselves in a hands-on, complimentary, flower bar experience (in partnership with Bouquet Box Flower Bar), featuring fragrant roses, garden roses, and an array of specialty blooms so you can craft your own bouquets to take home. On Sunday May 10th, chef Ho Chee Boon has a special Mother’s Day menu available for lunch and dinner guests for $78. (No flower bar). Reserve here. 

A few years ago, we brought Mom to Hayes Street Grill for lunch, since it coincided with the kitchen putting Chesapeake Bay soft-shell crabs on the menu. This year, the timing is no different! They dip the soft-shell crabs in buttermilk and seasoned flour, sauté them until crisp, drape them in a meunière (a pan sauce of shallots, wine, butter, and parsley), and serve them with French fries, which you will love dipping in that sauce! So good. Pop some Champagne to go with it.

Are you going to cook brunch for Mom at home? Nopa’s Bake Shop is back this Saturday with their epic French toast kits (I loved them during the pandemic), and you can also get Nopa bacon, garlic breakfast sausage, hand-squeezed organic Navel orange juice, and a bottle of bubs Order now, pick up on Saturday!

Looking for something fun to do? Take Mom to the San Francisco Decorator Showcase, set within a grand 1897 Queen Anne–style Victorian in Pacific Heights.

what’s cookin’

Howdy frens. Happy Earth Day. I’m currently on my flight to New York while finishing up this column for you since I was busy packing and getting my apartment ready for Fortuna’s catsitter yesterday. It’s always so hard to leave baby gurl—she was totally sitting in my suitcase last night and wouldn’t look at me. Awwww, Tuna! I’ll be back, honey!

I’m so friggin’ excited to be heading back in New York after too many years away. I won’t have a tablehopper issue for you next week since I’ll still be in da Big Apple, but I’ll be back in your inbox on May 5th—I have a bunch of tasty tidbits in today’s column to tide you over until I return. I won’t be replying to emails until I get back—I want to enjoy every minute I have in the city. Thanks for understanding.

I gotta keep this intro letter short and sweet, writing on the plane is no fun (and someone didn’t get a full night of sleep—I need a nap!). I will eat some Russ & Daughters and Raoul’s steak au poivre and allllll the pizza for you!

Baci,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

It’s an Outer Sunset Love Match: Two Pitchers Brewing Company Taproom and Maillards Are Now Open

Congrats to Maillards on surviving their crazy-busy soft opening last week. The locally adored smashburger pop-up from chef Max Ponzurick just opened a brick-and-mortar location inside the taproom from Oakland’s Two Pitchers Brewing Company, and the double-play is pretty genius. They’re just blocks from the beach, and there were all kinds of surfers, families, and cyclists enjoying pitchers of beers and burgers at large communal tables inside, or huddled in the outdoor parklet in fleece jackets. 

The soft opening was this past weekend, and I was hoping to snag a burger later on Sunday night, but even at 7:30pm, it was going to take an hour to get through the line that stretched out the door to get my order, according to a friendly reader who I ran into while she was picking up her food (she gave me a French fry, awww). I’ll just need to plan a midweek excursion soon, but will bring a friend with me next time to pass the time—this place is gonna be bizzzeeeeee.

Here’s the menu above, with four kinds of smashburgers (made with grass-fed, grass-finished beef), and some of their killer specials are coming soon. It was interesting to see that it was their fried chicken tender sandwich and bucket of Nashville-style chicken bites (you choose your spice level) that were sold out.

Fries are fried in beef tallow, and there’s also a garlic crunch Caesar salad. For dessert, there are a couple Straus soft-serve options (the cookies ’n’ cream mix it sounds so good), but it will be interesting to see how they work that out with the long line since most people don’t want to have to eat their soft-serve before their burger.

Maillards will continue to slang their burgers at the Outer Sunset farmers market on Sundays, and their pop-up at Heritage Restaurant will continue (for now) on Tuesdays.

Two Pitchers has seven brews on tap, including their Baseline lager for just $3 (whut!), their blood orange and grapefruit radler, a pale ale, plus a dry cider, as well as 13 beers from local brewers like Enterprise, Fort Point, Headlands, Standard Deviant, and more ($6–$10 per pint). Open Wed–Thu 4pm–10pm, Fri 4pm–11pm, Sat 12pm–11pm, and Sun 12pm–9pm. 3821 Noriega St. at 46th Ave.

Coming Soon: Casa Sofia Is Opening by Oracle Park, Who’s Moving Into the Del Popolo Space, Toronado’s New Owners

I was trying to find out who the new people listed on the ABC license transfer for Toronado were, and SFGATE received a press release with the deets: “Bill Lewis, a San Francisco resident of three decades and a regular of the beloved Haight Street bar, will serve as the new owner of Toronado along with his brother-in-law, Wall Pringle, according to a news release shared with SFGATE on behalf of Lewis. Founder Dave Keene, who owned the bar for 39 years and turned it into an internationally recognized destination for craft beer enthusiasts, will remain connected to the bar as an ambassador following the sale.” Cheers to no crypto bros taking over the infamously cash-only bar! 547 Haight St.

A North Indian Restaurant with Date Night-Ready Décor Opens in the Mission

Recently opened in the Mission in the former 14 Peaks Nepalese Cuisine is Namaste Indian Cuisine, the fifth in the Namaste restaurant group and their first location in SF. The space got quite an upgrade, and according to pics on Yelp, it has a welcoming style with leather chairs, tufted booth tables, wallpaper, and pendant lights. 

Founded by chef-owner Dilip Gurung, the first Namaste opened on the Monterey Peninsula in 2011, and expanded to Palo Alto, Los Gatos, Santa Cruz, and now the Mission (all the locations are owner-operated by Gurung and his family, and he tells me he’s very hands-on in the kitchen across all locations).

At Namaste, the menu is focused primarily on North Indian cuisine (Gurung is originally from Nepal), highlighting rich, slow-cooked curries (their Himalayan goat curry is personally close to his heart, made with traditional Nepalese spices and herbs passed down through generations), as well as tandoori clay oven preparations, chicken momos, and biryani. 

The menu also includes South Indian–influenced dishes like lemongrass curry (made with coconut milk and curry leaf), and Malabar curry (built on a coconut and garlic base with mustard seeds, which reflect the coastal cooking of Kerala), as well as Goan cuisine, like vindaloo and Goan seafood curry. Everything is made in-house from scratch, from their sauces to their spice blends. All diners are welcome (they even offer vegan curries), and they’re halal-friendly.

The Namaste team is excited to open in the Mission and be part of “such a diverse and food-literate community.” Open Sun–Thu 11:30am–2:30pm and 5pm–9pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 5pm–9:30pm. 2848 23rd St. at Bryant.

A New Turkish Pizza and Pide Shop with Late-Night Hours

Enjoy a Meal Out on the Town (and Save a Few Bucks!) With These Extra-Special Menus

It’s Time to Perk Up at These New Coffee and Matcha Shops

In last week’s issue, I wrote about the new Vietnamese café in downtown Yerba Buena at 121 New Montgomery Street, Cà phê Việt, and this past weekend, my friend and I met up to try their coffee with egg cream (soooo delish) and iced coffee with coconut cream (the ideal afternoon pick-me-up). We tried the bánh mì as well, but it’s the coffee with egg cream that will bring me back. 

Note: it ends up the soft-serve ice cream I mentioned last week is coming soon, and isn’t there quite yet. I was happy to see Papa Noodle next door so busy on a Saturday—looks like the word is finally getting out about how tasty and affordable their noodles are! 

My friend went to visit Origin Lab, a coffee/matcha shop that opened downtown (near Union Square) just a week ago and it has been nonstop slammed. The Turkish owner Ibrahim is making the drinks right in front of the customers, including whisking his Matcha Cloud creations (using ceremonial grade matcha) with flavors like yuzu or strawberry, and making single-origin pour-over coffee, and espresso drinks that include the usual suspects, or there’s the banana cream cloud (the espresso is incorporated into the cream layer on top, while the base is a banana milk–style drink), or there’s a Kyoto matchapresso. The space has a welcoming design by Flower Design & Build Co., with punchy grass green and a variety of seating options in the cozy space. Open daily 6am–6pm. 211 Sutter St. at Kearny.

Bay Area Pizza Week Celebrates the Art of the Pie

Underway now is the second annual Bay Area Pizza Week, running April 22nd–May 3rd. Participating restaurants—anywhere pizza or flatbreads are made—will serve special pies and slices at special prices. This year, SF spots Tony’s Pizza Napoletana, Giovanni Italian Specialties, Toscano Brothers Italian Bakery, Capo’s, all A16 locations, Pizzeria Delfina, Goat Hill Pizza, North Beach Pizza, and Cheezy’s Artisan Pizza are all on board, but there are participating pizzerias all over the Bay Area. You can check out the app too.

Pizzeria Delfina is bringing back the Il Tropicale pizza (charred pineapple, prosciutto cotto, tomato, pickled peppers, and mozzarella) for dine-in, takeout, and delivery at all Pizzeria Delfina locations.

the sugar mama

San Francisco, Don’t Miss Your Lamb Jam Moment

We’re more than halfway through April, which means Lamb Jam 2026 is in full swing across San Francisco and time is running out to experience it. For a limited time, a lineup of talented local chefs are each serving a signature dish featuring American lamb, all priced under $30 and available on bar, happy hour, or small plates menus.

Featuring chef Reem Assil of Reem’s California, chef Francis Ang of Abacá, chef Mat Schuster of Canela Bistro, chef Jason Halverson of The Vault Steakhouse, and chef Ryan McIlwraith of Bosco, each brings their own unique take on American lamb to the table. Diners are invited to explore, taste, and cast their vote for their favorite dishes as the competition heats up.

Explore participating restaurants and vote here. When you vote, you’re automatically entered for a chance to win two tickets to an exclusive chef dinner hosted by the winning restaurant!

You can also enter to win a $100 gift certificate to the participating restaurant of your choice, click here!

If you haven’t made your way out yet, now is the time. Join the momentum, support local chefs, and be part of the excitement before the month wraps. Take a look at the dishes here and prepare to get hungry!

Presented by the American Lamb Board.

sponsored event

Get Your Tickets for a Weekend of Fun Events at the Fifth Annual Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience, May 14th–17th

Experience the best of Sonoma and beyond at the Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience (May 14th–17th). This weekend-long festival celebrates local farmers, world-renowned winemakers, and top chefs from around the world and local favorites! 

The Vintners Plaza Grand Tasting on Saturday May 16th is the centerpiece of the weekend, with over 150 wines, beers, and spirits, plus curated bites from nationally recognized chefs including Joe Sasto, Nadia Caterina Munno “The Pasta Queen,” Viet Pham, Lee Anne Wong, Britt Rescigno, and more! 

Start the weekend early with lunch on Friday at a special Shifting the Lens Brunch with chef Stephanie Izard at J Vineyards and Winery, or a Garden-to-Table Lunch at Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens. Or chow down at a lunchtime Barbecue with Matt Horn at Orsi Family Vineyards.

Rock out Friday night to an Outdoor Concert at Rodney Strong Vineyards, featuring the soulful sounds of 19-year-old, award-winning guitarist-singer Grace Bowers. Opening for Grace is Hannah Ellis, a country music singer/songwriter who will sing her hit song, “Wine Country!”

Want to up your wine game? Join dynamic and fun wine seminars, including 150 Years of Beringer and “Don’t Bust My Chops” Red Wine Loves Lamb: Food & Wine Seminar.

This is your chance to indulge in the ultimate Wine Country celebration. Join us May 14–17th—tickets are on sale now at healdsburgwineandfood.com.

the socialite

Fior d’Italia Is Turning 140 and You Can Celebrate All 14 Decades at This Anniversary Dinner

My fellow restaurant history buffs: celebrate America’s oldest Italian restaurant, Fior d’Italia, at this anniversary dinner with Bay Area Culinary Historians on Sunday June 28th. (Normally, I’d be all over this, but the dinner is being held on Pride Sunday, darn!)

Here’s more: “Experience a recreation of an 1886 menu, and enjoy a special presentation from Francine Brevetti, the granddaughter of one of Fior’s founders and author of The Fabulous Fior. Ms. Brevetti will share stories of urban history, culinary tradition, and special personal memories. As you enjoy a six-course meal drawn from the restaurant's historic archives, you’ll trace the story of how Fior d’Italia rose as a beacon of immigrant resilience and cultural continuity, all the while reflecting the ever-changing soul of North Beach and American dining.”

“Please note: To stay true to the integrity of the time period and the historical recreation, the menu will be served as stated, with no substitutions. We apologize that it is not appropriate for vegetarians or those on restricted diets. Guests will enjoy: assaggino del giorno; calamari milleottecentottantasei; salada mista; assaggino del giorno; tortellini bolognese; scaloppine di vitello con patate arrosto e verdure (di stagione); and zabaglione, as well as a welcome glass of wine, with their compliments."

Tickets are limited. The cost per person, including tax and gratuity, is $140 per person, plus Eventbrite fees. 6pm–9pm. 2237 Mason St.

the archivist

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what’s cookin’

Hey there, I hope you had a Happy 415 Day! I love rebranding tax day. In the same SF spirit, don’t forget it’s SF Restaurant Week. I ran some of my favorite deals and meals last week, and you have through Sunday April 19th to enjoy special-priced menus from 200 restaurants. And, it’s a good weekend to stay in the City—the Caltrans work on I-80 and subsequent nightmare with Bay Bridge traffic begins Friday night through Monday morning, eeeee.

4/20 is puffing up next Monday, and SF Space Walk is already underway with a series of events and party drops at local dispensaries all week, check the lineup here. Don’t miss the Sunday screening of the Join the Club documentary film about Dennis Peron I wrote about a few months ago, it’s so moving and important! Incredible doc. Your $30 ticket includes a Brownie Mary Democratic Club membership, and it’s screening at Meadow HQ in SoMa, who are such fine folks!

Another film tidbit: there’s an entertaining weekly newsletter I subscribe to, Secret Breakfast, which pointed me to this short film, Sandiwara, shot by the talented Sean Baker (Anora) on an iPhone in two days (!) with the gorgeous Michelle Yeoh, who plays five characters (almost all have a connection to food) in Penang, Malaysia. Enjoy the visual banquet.

More eye candy! The San Francisco Art Fair is running April 16th–19th, at Fort Mason’s Festival Pavilion. (Don’t miss my good friend John Nieto’s work in Vaunt Gallery’s booth D30.)

This Saturday April 18th is the 120th anniversary of the 1906 Earthquake and Fire, and there are still a couple spots open on this special cocktail and bar history walking tour with writer Camper English of Alcademics. Enjoy the sunny day while walkin’ and boozin’ and learnin’. 1:30pm–4:30pm. $100. 21+.

Attention shoppers! It looks like Imperfect Foods/Misfit Foods is running another $25 referral offer for first-time users of their grocery delivery service. I order from them about once a month since they have some good deals and you don’t need me to tell you how expensive it is to get groceries in SF. Some current faves include the MeatCrafters Thai chicken sausage (tasty for lunch), Ataulfo mangoes, their organic blueberries have been delicious lately with organic coconut yogurt, their five-year aged cheddar is a solid staple in my cheese drawer, and any deals they’re running on Fishwife products (like smoked trout with red chimichurri). The special offer ends 4/30!

Your gurl is getting ready to leave for New York next week for my first Cherry Bombe Jubilee, and I’m getting excited. It feels fitting to celebrate tablehopper’s 20th anniversary with a trip to New York! This next week is going to be hectic as I try to get outta here, so apologies in advance if I don’t get back to you quickly. 

And I need to turn the beat around—an herbal supplement I took over the weekend took me down hard, after just one dose. Not to be TMI, but a bunch of you readers are in my demographic, and I think it’s worth sending a quick cautionary tale for my fellow (peri)menopausal ladies who take herbal supplements: tread carefully with black cohosh! She isn’t playing! I almost passed out in my Sunday yoga class and I’ve been wiped out for four days, WTF. And, yes, I went to my doctor and we’re looking at my labs—things are off. (I was telling my weird story to a friend and she told me about a bad experience with DHEA supplements and HRT.) See, all the Gen X ladies are out here disrupting menopause and running interference for everyone. Just consider this a PSA that if you’re taking black cohosh, please read more about how it can potentially react with your liver, and in some rare cases even damage it. Lesson learned, jeesh.

Last week, I was so sorry to see the awful news that chef Jeremiah Tower’s dear husband, the shining Curtis Cox, has passed away due to a longterm, incurable illness and complications from COVID. How devastating. Some friends have launched a GoFundMe to help Tower cover memorial expenses and some debt he incurred from medical and related bills while caring for Curtis. You can also show support by subscribing to JT’s must-read newsletter, Out of the Oven. Sending condolences and caring thoughts.

Let’s get into today’s column. I should be able to follow up with more news and stories for you next week when I’m feeling less punky.

Take it easy,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

The Owners of the Original El Faro Just Had Their Rent Doubled and Now the 65-Year-Old Taqueria Is for Sale

I hated hearing the news that the landlord of the original El Faro in the Mission has doubled the rent of the 65-year-old taqueria, which has basically forced owners Raymunda Ramírez and Patrick Kocourek to put the restaurant up for sale to avoid bankruptcy (via SFGATE). 

The taqueria is a Legacy Business, founded in 1961 by Febronio Ontiveros, who claimed to have made the first super burrito (La Cumbre also lays claim to making the first Mission-style burrito). 

Ramírez started as an employee in 1979, and bought the business from Ontiveros in 2003. She has weathered so many tough times recently (you may remember she was trying to recover from four robberies!), and now, she’s fighting to avoid eviction. At the moment, she really needs help to cover the new double rent; please read her personal letter on her GoFundMe that she launched March 24th (fortunately, the GoFundMe is halfway there—let’s keep it going so she can catch her breath). 

I’m hoping to hear a story of this matter getting shown some support by Mayor Lurie’s office. People, do what you can! And go get a breakfast burrito. Open daily 7am–7pm. 2399 Folsom St. at 20th St.

Quick Opening Notes: New Ramen on Polk, Cemitas, Specialty Vietnamese Coffee

A First Kitchen Table Book from a Longtime SF Restaurant Consultant, Bon Vivant, and Lifetime Lover of Food

Last week, I plunked into a corner booth for dinner at The Big Four with my longtime friend, Faith Wheeler—we were introduced in the beginning of my freelance writing career, which was before I launched tablehopper, so it has been more than 20 years! Joining us at the table was the sole copy of her brand-new and first book, Chickens Don’t Fly.

Anyone who has been involved in San Francisco’s restaurant industry for some time should know Faith Wheeler, the creative consulting force behind restaurants like The Slanted Door (she visited in the restaurant’s first days and offered to rewrite Charles Phan’s menu for free), and she’s the Faith of the Faith’s Cheese Toast that was on the menu at Town Hall. Prior to founding her own restaurant consulting firm, FW&Co., she was marketing director for Larry Mindel’s Spectrum Foods, a restaurant group some of you may remember fondly, with trendy white-tablecloth restaurants like Ciao! (one of SF’s early Cal-Ital restaurants) and Prego (the breadsticks!). What a time to be in the restaurant world. 

Faith had right timing in her career: prior to her SF restaurant consulting life, she was working in advertising at Goodby Berlin and Silverstein, and before that, she was in New York in the ’80s at Ogilvy & Mather, with clients like Tiffany & Co. and Steuben Glass. She was born a New York City girl, and raised in New Jersey, but left to attend Vanderbilt University in Nashville for a Mid-South chapter in her life—and her new book.

She’s calling Chickens Don’t Fly a “kitchen table book,” which is a combination of a coffee table book, a cookbook, and a memoir. There are 220 pages of stories, photographs, and over 100 recipes that span seven chapters and settings of her interesting life: NYC, Nashville, San Francisco, St. Helena, Asia, Paris, and Todos Santos, MX, where she currently spends as much time chasing sunsets as possible. 

Unless you’re family or friends with Faith, you wouldn’t necessarily know how much a great cook she is—but you don’t have a career in the restaurant industry as long as she did unless you really love food and drink (and good stories). The recipes have been collected along the way in her peripatetic life, improving with age and experience, from her winning college chili (now made with Rancho Gordo beans), to her French onion tart inspired by a chef friend, to her version of the iconic Diana’s Meat Pie from Henry’s Hunan. They’re all tried-and-true dishes you want in your wheelhouse (the Wheelerhouse?), whether you’re hosting brunch or cooking midweek dinner for your daughters or in charge of Christmas dessert.

It’s a beautiful, classy book with her favorite green on the cover (published by PRINT, a book agency and company formed by two Assouline alums), with evocative photos by Clay McLachlan of New York restaurants, vintage signs in Nashville, and hunger-inducing Korean-inspired short ribs. There are only a few chicken recipes—like the title implies, you will find it’s Faith’s personal stories that are meant to inspire you to live your life fearlessly. She’s big on trusting your gut, whether you’re reading the vibes or a menu. You may not know Faith, but you’ll share a good dinner with her while cooking your way through her book. Keep it on your kitchen table for inspiration of all kinds.🍸

How to Order/Book Signings
You can pre-order the book here, and be sure to meet the dynamic woman behind the Devilish Deviled Eggs at these upcoming book signings at Hudson Grace stores around California. The signing in SF next week (April 22nd) is going to be a blast, I wish I was in town.

April 16th (5pm–7pm): Hudson Grace 2403 Larkspur Landing Circle
April 22nd (5pm–7pm): Hudson Grace, 3350 Sacramento St., San Francisco
April 26th (1pm–3pm): Signing in the kitchen at the SF Showcase
April 29th (5pm–7pm): Hudson Grace, Brentwood
May 1st (4pm–6pm): Hudson Grace, Montecito

sponsored event

Get Your Tickets for a Weekend of Fun Events at the Fifth Annual Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience, May 14th–17th

Experience the best of Sonoma and beyond at the Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience (May 14th–17th). This weekend-long festival celebrates local farmers, world-renowned winemakers, and top chefs from around the world and local favorites! 

The Vintners Plaza Grand Tasting on Saturday May 16th is the centerpiece of the weekend, with over 150 wines, beers, and spirits, plus curated bites from nationally recognized chefs including Joe Sasto, Nadia Caterina Munno “The Pasta Queen,” Viet Pham, Lee Anne Wong, Britt Rescigno, and more! 

Start the weekend early with lunch on Friday at a special Shifting the Lens Brunch with chef Stephanie Izard at J Vineyards and Winery, or a Garden-to-Table Lunch at Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens. Or chow down at a lunchtime Barbecue with Matt Horn at Orsi Family Vineyards.

Rock out Friday night to an Outdoor Concert at Rodney Strong Vineyards, featuring the soulful sounds of 19-year-old, award-winning guitarist-singer Grace Bowers. Opening for Grace is Hannah Ellis, a country music singer/songwriter who will sing her hit song, “Wine Country!”

Want to up your wine game? Join dynamic and fun wine seminars, including 150 Years of Beringer and “Don’t Bust My Chops” Red Wine Loves Lamb: Food & Wine Seminar.

This is your chance to indulge in the ultimate Wine Country celebration. Join us May 14–17th—tickets are on sale now at healdsburgwineandfood.com.

the lush

Spring for the New Release from Brucato Spirits

the archivist

Thanks for reading tablehopper—become a supporting subscriber and you’ll get to see cool SF and vintage restaurant ephemera from my personal collection every month.

what’s cookin’

Hello, peeps. I hope you had a very Hoppy Easter. Sis and I enjoyed a family dinner with our parents in their balmy backyard, replete with a huge bowl of the most delicate housemade pasta (thanks, Carm!) and juicy leg of lamb off the barbecue; joining us was an array of beautiful birds feasting nearby at their bird feeder. A sunny Easter Sunday always feels like a special gift (especially if you’re at Dolores Park for Hunky Jesus—suns out, buns out!).

The night before, sissy and I were rocking out to Fcukers at The Castro Theatre—it was my first time seeing the $41 million worth of renovations in person (finally!). The restored ceiling is utterly breathtaking—I couldn’t believe all the details we never saw due to the 100 years of cigarette smoke buildup and dirt. I’m including a picture from 2022 so you can compare the difference. Incroyable.

We got to the show early so we could stake out a spot on the new tiered levels in front of the stage in the orchestra section, and admired the original proscenium that was uncovered and is now visible in all its opulent glory.

The show rocked, but, sadly, the sound was wonky—the vocals were really muted, and we could barely understand a word when lead vocalist Shanny Wise spoke to the audience on the mic. (My sis noted we needed subtitles.) Some friends noticed the same thing, while others said it sounded better upstairs. Here’s hoping the sound team dials it all in before I drop more money on another live show there—I didn’t hear any complaints about Sam Smith’s shows, so maybe it depends upon the style of the musical act. I’m going to stick with watching a film next—it’s time to hear David Hegarty bust out San Francisco on the new organ!

For my fellow cinema buffs, check out this article (“The 24 most breathtaking cinemas in the world”). Sadly, The Castro must not have been ready in time, but it really should be the 25th!

It was wonderful to see the Castro neighborhood buzzing with people (Saturday was also a warm evening), and I’m sure the local bars are experiencing new clientele coming in (I overheard a young 20-something asking her friend about the Twin Peaks bar—I almost wanted to see how that was going to play out). I recommend having a cocktail before or after a show at the nearby Lobby Bar (we did both, LOL: pregame and nightcap!). You can read my early piece about the bar here; some things have changed over the past year, including the bar team, but we loved the fab service (thanks, Oscar!) and well-made cocktails. They have plenty of N/A cocktails and bites, too.

I’m so damn excited to be leaving for New York in a couple weeks to attend my first Cherry Bombe Jubilee—is anyone from SF going? Springtime in New York! Cue the Gershwin. Would you believe my last visit was right before the pandemic? 2019! Ugh! Too long! There are so many places I need to revisit (including Russ & Daughters, I want a sabich from Taïm, and I’m really trying hard to get a table at Raoul’s for their epic steak au poivre—I haven’t been since I lived in New York in 2016!). A late-night slice of Joe’s Pizza will likely happen after drinks at nearby Little Branch, forever a favorite.

As for new spots, I’m thrilled to have a table booked at Le Veau d’Or (I can practically taste that Martini!), I plan to stalk the braised oxtail gratin at Markette, and since I’m staying in the West Village, I can’t stop dreaming over my future dinner at Bartolo—it’s such a chic dining room (the light, the linens!), and you know I’m coming home with a lynx ashtray.

Also on my go-get-it list: lunch at Roscioli NYC, the ham and cheese pithivier at Wildair, and finally making a pizza pilgrimage to Razza. Feel free to send any can’t-miss recos my way, although I don’t know how I can fit it all in, especially since I’m planning to visit the Cooper Hewitt for the Art of Noise exhibit, the Biennial at the Whitney, Egon Schiele at Neue Galerie (plus a swing-by to Café Sabarsky), and a Helmut Newton x Steven Klein show at Staley Wise Gallery. tablehopper, you betta hop!

I haven’t seen any DJs listed who I can’t miss (yet), so at least I have a chance of some full days of running around instead of sleeping off a late night of dancing until 4am. Famous last words. Ha! I’m the worst. Send me any cute parties! (I’m there from April 22nd–28th.) Can’t. Wait.

Related: I really enjoyed this recent post on Restaurant-ing Through History about the tea rooms of Harlem in the 1920s. Check it out.

OK, let’s get to the news, along with my writeup of where to get some tasty tonkatsu, and I have a fun ticket giveaway for you beloved supporting subscribers, thank youuuuuu!

XO!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Inner Sunset’s Caché Opening a Second Location in the Financial District (with a Full Bar)

In just a little over a year after opening the modern bistro Caché in the Inner Sunset—the first SF project from French owners Florent Thomas and chef Simon Mounier—the team just announced an upcoming second location in the Financial District; they plan to open in fall 2026. They’re raising funds on The SMBX, where you can purchase CACH Small Business Bonds, check it out.

Mangrove Thai Kitchen on Divisadero Transforms Into Song Wat

I saw a post from @divisaderocorridor that noticed Mangrove Thai Kitchen appeared to be temporarily closed until February 2027. Thanks to my neighborhood stringer, I found out the concept has actually flipped to “Song Wat, named after an iconic Street in Bangkok’s Chinatown and built by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) in 1892, whose portrait hangs prominently on the wall.” Song Wat is co-owned by Atthapon Inkhong, who is also one of the owners of Kan Kiin, a Michelin Guide–recognized Thai restaurant in Daly City.

My NoPa informant got a look inside the dining room, which has been redesigned with a colorful style and new décor on the walls (including vintage-inspired ads from Song Wat, and a shelving unit stocked with residential décor), while a server station looks like a supermarket shelf from 75 years ago. Round tables for group dining have been added to the middle of the dining room, replacing the former heavy rectangular tables (but the tufted booths along one wall remain).

They’re currently in their soft-opening phase and open daily from 5pm–9pm. Starting next month, Song Wat will open for lunch from 11am–2pm. 312 Divisadero St. at Page.

Hologram Opens in the Outer Richmond, Bringing Retro and Ohana Vibes to Your Day

Sometimes the Instagram algorithm really knows what I’m looking for. Newly open as of last Friday April 3rd is Hologram, a retro-styled neighborhood café in the Outer Richmond from Snowbird Coffee’s Eugene and Anneliese Kim (the coffee roaster opened in the Inner Sunset in 2014). The husband-and-wife duo later expanded with more cafés, and even a breakfast spot in Alameda, but were forced to scale back during the pandemic (but they kept the original Snowbird).

After making it through some tough times and doing some reflection on what was important to them (health, time, and community), they realized they really missed having a place to gather and just be able to sit and hang out (Snowbird became grab and go during COVID). Eugene, who grew up in the Richmond and the Sunset, always has his eye on neighborhood buildings and spotted the available location (previously Umami Sushi and Dumpling Alley; it looks like Mission Local reported on this a few months ago). When the couple realized it came with a full kitchen, their passion project really began to take shape.

Annaliese, who is Filipina and grew up on Oahu, misses the affordable, Hawaiian-style comfort food of her childhood, so she wanted to offer some diner-style dishes that are accessible to the everyday person (along with coffee, of course). There’s a Hawaiian plate with Portuguese sausage, rice, and eggs, and a couple of the café’s cold brews have coconut or ube cream tops (the Kona Gold comes with dried coconut). They will offer a few more of their specialty coffee drinks, like the Spaniard (with condensed milk).

Since they have a bunch of friends in the food industry, they look forward to hosting pop-ups in the future, and since they bought the beer-and-wine license from the former business, they plan to hold local wine dinners, too.

Hologram has 20–30 seats, with some round tables inside that seat 4, and outdoor tables are coming. The space has a nostalgic and Mid-Century look, with orange tiles that remind me of my childhood (as well as the tiles that were outside Five Happiness on Geary, now L H Restaurant), along with retro stacking chairs, and vintage-style orange glass pendant and Nelson bubble saucer lamps. There’s also a piece of art from local duo KEFE (Kelly Tunstall and Ferris Plock), and a bunch of fun merch and items from Freddie’s Lifestyle Shop in the corner (and you can buy some Snowbird Coffee beans to bring home). 

I asked Anneliese about the name, and she said a hologram is nostalgic of the 90s, while also a reflection of light from the past that is brought into the future, which is a lovely expression of what they’re doing here. Hours are Wed–Sun 8am–2pm, and will expand as they staff up and get going. 2512 Clement St. at 26th Ave.

Two Longtime Bay Area Restaurants Closing After 30-Plus Years in Business

Over the weekend, I was sorry to see this Instagram post from Millennium Restaurant announcing the upcoming closure of their Rockridge location after service on May 16th. The groundbreaking, upscale vegan restaurant first opened in San Francisco 32 years ago, in 1994, which is the year I moved to the City. (Wow, memories!) In 2015, executive chef-partner Eric Tucker and GM Alison Bagby closed the SF location in the Hotel California (at 580 Geary)—much to the dismay of their SF fanbase—and moved to Oakland and reopened later that year. Their loyal customers will miss opening the restaurant doors with the clever asparagus and carrot handles, but hopefully they will be in use again since the team may be launching a different version of Millennium in the future, stand by. 5912 College Ave. at Chabot, Oakland.

SFGATE wrote about the closure of Outer Richmond diner Eat Americana, which is closing after 30 years (owner Tony Lai is reportedly retiring). According to the story, “In 2016, Lai brought a local chef, James Moisey, on board to overhaul the menu into what it is today. Moisey had become well-known in San Francisco for his gluttonous, yet creative takes on diner food after stints at the Broken Record bar and his own restaurant, Rickybobby.” The diner’s last day of business will be Sunday April 12th. 3532 Balboa St.

This Friday, It’s Time to Go Out and Eat for SF Restaurant Week

Thanks to all of you who entered the San Francisco Restaurant Week giveaway on @tablehopper! 

Beginning this Friday April 10th through Sunday April 19th, you can take your pick from 200 restaurants throughout San Francisco that will offer prix-fixe lunch, brunch, and dinner menus for takeout, delivery, indoor, and outdoor dining. It’s a great time to meet a friend for lunch, or hit the town and try a new place for dinner! Be sure to look at the individual listings to see the SFRW menus and make your reservation. Here are a few offers that caught my eye:

For the giveaway, one winner gets a $150 gift certificate to Delfina, which is serving a classic dinner menu of guest faves for $65: primi: grilled calamari and white beans or insalata di campo; secondi: roasted chicken with mushrooms and olive oil mashed potatoes, or hanger steak and French fries, or spaghetti pomodoro; and for dessert: buttermilk panna cotta, or profiteroles with espresso gelato, warm chocolate sauce, and almonds. At Pizzeria Delfina, they’re doing a $45 menu with chicken or eggplant Parm! 

We also gave away a $100 gift certificate to Brenda’s French Soul Food, which has a $25 brunch menu and $35 lunch menu offer.

You can check out the atmospheric AMA by Bradley Kilgore with their $75 dinner menu (viewable here), which includes their kakigori for dessert.

I dig the upbeat Latin Caribbean Chao Pescao near City Hall, and their tasty ropa vieja is on their $35 three-course lunch menu, as well as their $75 five-course dinner menu, which also lists their deeeeeelicious lechón cubano (slow-cooked pork shoulder, salsa de mojo, habanero salsa, and the brilliant gremolata de chicharrón).

Flour + Water Pizzeria is running a Pizza Power Lunch with a $25 midday special for dine-in guests. Take your choice of a Caesar or chop salad, followed by a choice of Margherita, cacio e pepe, or pesto pizza. 532 Columbus Ave. 

At Early to Rise, the $25 weekday-only special means you basically get a warm, sugar-rolled donut and a cup of coffee (Signal Coffee) for free if you order their trademark eggs Benedict (normally $25) with their house-smoked Canadian bacon (be sure to buy a pack to bring home). You can also choose from the BLT with griddled challah bread, heirloom tomato, housemade bacon, and lemon aioli, or the seasonal blueberry-ricotta pancakes topped with almond crunch. 1801 McAllister St.

A bunch of places haven’t even posted their menus yet—be sure to check back in a couple days and look at the list of 200 restaurants participating in SFRW!

Booked Up

There are some upcoming author events for springtime book releases, starting with an upcoming book talk at Omnivore Books for Mariana Velásquez’s new book: Revel — A Maximalist’s Guide to Having People Over (sounds right up my alley), in conversation with A16’s Shelley Lindgren this Wednesday April 8th (6:30pm), and a book release dinner at A16 on Thursday April 9th (reserve from 5:30pm–9:30pm).

Velásquez is a chef, food stylist, and housewares designer who started the retail line Casa Velasquez, a brand that ventures into an unexplored consumer category: hosting-ware. Velásquez is also the designer of A16’s new restaurant, Lucania, opening later this year in the Ferry Building (more on that from me very soon!). 

In a couple weeks, cookbook author and culinary tour guide Domenica Marchetti of Domenica Cooks is going to be appearing at a number of events and signings for her Italian Cookies cookbook launch, featuring recipes and stories from all regions of Italy.

April 19th (3pm) is a book talk and cookie tasting with Kate Leahy at Omnivore Books in San Francisco; April 22nd (6pm), Marchetti is in conversation with Tori Ritchie at the Museo Italo Americano, San Francisco; April 23rd (6pm) is an appearance (La Dolce Vita Cookies & Wine) with Kitty Oestlien of Tansy Wines at Book Society Social, Berkeley; April 24th (11am–1pm) is cookies and coffee at The Caffè by Mr. Espresso, Oakland (there will be two cookies from the book especially for the event); and on April 25th (1pm–3pm), Marchetti is back in SF for the You Had Me at Almonds Pop-Up Bakesale at Kantine, San Francisco, a Cookbook Week event. Yay, we all need cookies.

fresh meat

Golden Child 

A couple months ago, I headed over to Kawanoya in Noe Valley for dinner (which you supporting subscribers already know opened recently in the former Clay Oven Indian Cuisine).

the sugar mama

Hey Boy, Hey Girl: Here’s Your Chance to Win Tickets to TOMORA at The Regency Ballroom

Last month, I attended the uplifting Franc Moody show (SO FUN) at the recently upgraded The Regency Ballroom, and they really had the sound and lighting dialed like I haven’t experienced there before. (I’m also digging that The Regency is just a quick walk down Van Ness Avenue for me.) Here’s the current calendar. 

You want to see a show, too? I have one pair of tickets to give away to TOMORA on Tuesday April 14th! This is a brand-new side project featuring Norwegian singer AURORA and Tom Rowlands of The Chemical Brothers (Aurora was on The Chems’ No Geography album). TOMORA is releasing their debut album on April 17th, and this is their fans’ first chance to hear their new music live before the album is released! So cool, right? 

And be sure to grab a drink and a bite before the show at Dacha on Sutter, which is just a couple blocks away!