what’s cookin’

Hey hey! Happy Thursday to you!

On Tuesday evening, I popped by the 48 Hills/SF Bay Guardian party at El Rio to celebrate the Bay Guardian’s 60th anniversary, 13 years of 48 Hills, AND their 52nd Best of the Bay winners, which included tablehopper as a 2026 Editors’ Pick, thank you very much! We noshed on empanadas from Chile Lindo (I was asked to help curate the party snacks) and owner Paula Tejeda sent me home with a few in my purse since I needed to scoot back to my desk to finish writing this beast of a column. Awwww.

I’m glad my deadline was running later this week, because this morning, I was sent a link to this The Last Word feature that just came out on the final page of the November issue of San Francisco magazine! Thanks to Katie Sweeney for the “Table Talk” Q&A (great job editing down all my long answers, LOL), and to Ashley Rose Conway (Craft & Cocktails) for the fabulous portrait from tablehopper’s 20th anniversary cocktail party at 15 Romolo. Go fempire!

After sending last week’s newsletter, I posted pics from tablehopper’s 20th anniversary PrimeBird dinner (take a look here), as well as a recap of the fab reception at Foodwise’s Sunday Supper. Let’s keep the party going! Tonight (Thursday evening), I’m kicking off my birthday festivities early with friends at The Peach Pit Cabaret with Lady Camden at Bimbo’s 365 Club, my favorite vintage venue in The City. Sunday is my actual birthday, which I’ll be celebrating with my sweet parents and sis over family dinner (my preferred table). There will be Champagne! (There already is, to be honest.)

Last week, I ran a teaser about a giveaway I’m hosting this week for supporting subscribers, so let’s do this. On Monday November 2nd, I’m honored to be emceeing the 20th anniversary cocktail party for Perbacco Ristorante + Bar! Another Vent’Anni celebration! 🥂 Eight tablehopper readers (and their guests) can join me in raising a glass to owners Umberto and Leslie Gibin for 20 years of top-notch Piedmontese cuisine and wines and outstanding service—total excellence for two decades. (Be sure to read below about their anniversary menu running from November 5th–7th.) This invite-only party...

Please don’t forget to vote this week! Election Day is coming on Tuesday November 3rd, and it’s time to return that ballot. Personally, I’m not returning my ballot by mail with all the shenanigans lately. You can drop off your ballot at any of the City’s 37 official drop boxes. Every drop box shows the City seal and the American flag (just look at Miss MORE! posing next to one so you know what it looks like, if you can manage to take your eyes off her for a second), and is accessible, outdoor, and open 24/7 until 8pm on Election Day. You can drop off your ballot at the City Hall Voting Center during Voting Center hours, and on Election Day, you can drop off your ballot at City Hall or at any of the 501 polling places in San Francisco from 7am–8pm. VOTE early, vote now.

This Saturday evening, all eyes will be on the Valkyries playing Game 7 of the 2026 WNBA Finals against the Atlanta Dream, back in Ballhalla! Winner takes all! SF is going to be LOUD. Let’s gooooooo!

Happy Halloween and Samhain and Día de Muertos and Scorpio SZN. GO VALKS!

🥂🥂🥂
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Flour & Branch Finally Reopens in Its New South Park Nest, Adding Brunch, Nostalgic Supper, and More to Its Lineup of House-Baked Goodies

Back in May, I wrote about the intended soft-opening of the new home for Flour & Branch; owner and baker Lauren Arnsdorff had to close the original SoMa shop after “severe flooding and building failures at her leased location, [and] prolonged disputes related to landlord negligence.” It has been an arduous journey, and then the June opening got snagged with a few final construction and permit items. But now, Flour & Branch really, truly opened a couple weeks ago, and this weekend (October 30th–November 1st) is the grand opening, with the launch of the full menu, a few Halloween festive touches, and a giveaway for five lucky guests. (I’ll be writing more after I visit in the coming week, but for now, I wanted you to know about this weekend’s grand opening.)

Arnsdorff has expanded her offering of soft-baked cookies, pastries (both sweet and savory), croissants, and house breads to include brunch (with dishes like red corn chilaquiles, ricotta-banana pancakes, croissant and bagel sandwiches, and a Monte Cristo on shokupan), plus a new supper with nostalgic favorites (think pigs in a blanket with beer cheese, cornbread potpie, brisket dip au jus, creative sourdough pizzas with toppings like house porchetta, and a tableside cheese wheel), new desserts (including a dessert dim sum cart), along with botanical and adaptogen apéritifs; you can look at all the menus here. The space looks cozy, with lots of texture and patterns, low-slung upholstered banquettes, and eye-catching light fixtures. Hours are expanding to Tue–Fri 8am–7pm, and Sat–Sun 9am–7pm. Brunch is until 2pm, and supper runs 2pm to close. 155A South Park St.

Jerry’s Roast Pork Temporarily Closes, But Owner Matt Kosoy Has a New App for Artisan Bakers Fresh Out of the Oven

My fellow fans of the Philly-inspired, thoughtfully constructed roast pork hoagies at Jerry’s Roast Pork will be dismayed to learn the hoagie shop at Two Embarcadero has temporarily closed through the end of the year. I reached out to founder Matt Kosoy (also of Pacifica’s Rosalind Bakery), and he confirmed he has paused operations for now, citing he can’t operate at the “beautifully weird” location after his best efforts for the past year (he opened Jerry’s in November 2025). His meatball hoagies and the supreme vegan hoagie were also pretty incredible, but it was always a next-level challenge to find his shop. Stand by for more. 2 Embarcadero Center, Lobby Level (whatever that meant!). 

In the meantime, Kosoy has been burning the midnight oil creating a web app and operating system for artisan bakers called Yecora (named after Yecora Rojo, a strain of red wheat that grows in Central Valley, which he uses about 15–20 percent of in his bread flour mix). Yeah, Kosoy isn’t just a badass baker with 10 years of experience—he also has a background as a web developer, and he has been writing this software since March. 

Yecora functions like a service, designed to help bakers manage and scale their business, whether they’re a home baker interested in making two loaves from a famed bread recipe, to a nano baker with a cottage food permit who wants to scale up for a farmers market stall, or wholesale, retail, catering, and more. Your first 5 clients are free, and you only pay as your client list grows. The app will help the bulk bread community share bread formulas (which includes a family tree), scale and plan production, build delivery routes, generate invoices, and more, all from someone who has had to work through it all firsthand. It’s pretty mind-blowing. And the beta just went live, check it out!

Another Temporary Closure (and Changes) at Donají on 24th Street

A couple weeks ago, Donají in the Mission...

The Closure of Two Businesses on Divisadero from Way Back

Wow, damn, after 40 years, it looks like Popeyes Louisiana Kitchen on Divis has officially closed. It has had erratic hours and temporary closures over the past couple months, and my friend who lives in the neighborhood said it has been dark for a few weeks and is looking pretty tagged up. Yelp says it’s closed, the Popeyes website doesn’t list the location anymore, and I haven’t been able to call or order anything, so it looks pretty dunzo. There was an article in SFGATE a few years ago that reported a 7-story/17-unit condo was proposed for the location, and there were just three years left on the lease, so the timing tracks. At least the Popeyes location on Fillmore is still open for when a craving for their spicy chicken sandwich strikes. 599 Divisadero St. at Hayes.

Another old-timer, Bus Stop Pizza, closed this summer after 45 years (owner Sam Heng and his wife retired), and the SF Business Times reported Figs N Olives Palestinian Bakery and Pizzeria from chef Marwan Awayssa will be taking its place. 256 Divisadero St. at Haight.

A New Waterfront Café Is on the Way

by Savannah Leone Bundy

Buen Rallo Hospitality Group (Il Parco, Suspiro) is not only busy opening La Piazza next year in Union Square, but is also teaming up with Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy to bring an all-day café to the Embarcadero. Il Porto will be designed to serve the waterfront throughout the day. Situated at the departure point for Alcatraz, the café will offer guests seasonal bites, bar service, coffee, and grab-and-go items. The 3,760-square-foot location is already under construction and scheduled to open at Pier 31 in spring 2027.

New, Casual Bites Around Town

tablehopper media researcher ran across Paku near City College...

Chef Departures and Updates

Perbacco Is Running a 20th Anniversary Menu November 5th–7th (with a Special Guest Chef Appearance!)

When Perbacco was about to open 20 years ago, now-legendary owner Umberto Gibin and chef Staffan Terje were poised to introduce San Francisco to a refined and luxurious kind of Piedmontese cuisine this Cal-Ital and Tuscan town never knew, with a deep wine list to match. Staffan was also a trailblazer in the housemade salumi program game (with their red Berkel slicer), and trained so many cooks who went on to become great chefs. The restaurant has been an anchor in the Financial District in spite of the area’s stormy seas for the past six years, and every time I swing by for dinner or grab a drink at the bar, there’s Umberto, who still works the dining room nearly every service—for 20 years!

In 2011, S.Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants named Perbacco Best Authentic Italian Restaurant in North America. Over 20 years, it has earned Michelin recognition year after year, a Bib Gourmand for a decade, and James Beard Award semifinalist honors for Outstanding Wine Program (2012) and Outstanding Service (2015), with Umberto named a semifinalist for Outstanding Restaurateur that same year. In 2018, he was named a Cavaliere del Tartufo e dei Vini di Alba for his work bringing Italian culture to the West Coast.

When Perbacco first opened (on October 25th, 2006), the menu included the raviolo all’uovo (truffle ricotta and farm egg filling), the iconic agnolotti dal plin, and grissini rubatà, and all three will be on a special anniversary menu running Thursday November 5th–7th, and founding chef-partner Staffan Terje will be coming out of retirement and joining longtime chef de cuisine Toby Nah-Ambrocio and returning to the kitchen that Saturday. 

The four-course menu (antipasto, pasta, secondo, and dolce) will be $95, with an optional wine pairing for an additional $45, both available alongside Perbacco’s full dinner menu. (I always love to bring some brutti ma buoni/“ugly but good” cookies home.) Here’s to 20 years of excellent hospitality and cuisine! Reserve via OpenTable. 230 California St. at Battery.

the sponsor

Invest in The Epicurean Trader So They Can Relocate Their Bernal Heights Location (While You Enjoy Membership Perks)

The Epicurean Trader is a female-founded business started by immigrants from New Zealand. For 11 years, we’ve grown market by market without outside investors, championing small-batch and local makers, bars, and restaurants across our four San Francisco markets. We survived COVID, rent increases, and food inflation. If you work in this industry, you know what that means!

In August, we had to close our Bernal Heights store when the lease expired, and the new rent became unworkable. Now, we’re raising money on StartEngine to relocate and keep serving the community that has supported us. We have a space in mind, but we won’t sign a lease until we know the capital is there.

Every investor gets an Insider Membership with 15% off everything, including our café–great news if you cook, mix, or stock a bar. At $5,000+, you also get our Provisions Club, a personalized quarterly subscription of 8–10 curated items. Think “Stitch Fix for gourmet food.”

the lush

SF’s First Arab- and Japanese-Inspired Cocktail Bar Soft Opens Next Week

There’s a new sign hanging on the corner of Folsom and 14th Street that says Yabani, which means “Japanese” in Arabic, a nod to the space’s former incarnation as a Japanese whiskey bar. The Dajani Group (Bar 821, Tsunami Panhandle) opened Nihon Whiskey Lounge in this location in 2006, a pioneer with its extensive Japanese whiskey collection—it would have been another member of the 20-year club over here, but closed at the onset of the pandemic.

Consulting creative and beverage director Mohammed “Mo” Zagha (who is half Jordanian) worked with Palestinian owner Khaled Dajani on the reboot of his Bar 821 on Divisadero in 2024, creating a choose-your-own-adventure menu of cocktails (like fizzy or refreshing, floral or fruity), and now they’re leaning into a similar format at Yabani, but highlighting their shared Arab backgrounds in this new concept. Yabani blends Japanese and Arab flavors, traditions, and hospitality, placing Japanese shochu and whisky alongside 15 kinds of Arab arak.

Zagha has been exploring the parallels of cross-cultural flavors (like shiso and parsley), and discovering unexpected pairings that work well, like kombu and damask rose. He’s sourcing dried herbs, spices, flowers, and botanicals from the nearby San Francisco Herb Company, and then creating infusions, extractions, hydrosols, and distillations, which cuts down on raw ingredient waste, while some will show up on your glass, like a rose petal salt rim.

I first met Zagha when he was the beverage director at The Linden Room from 2017–2018, and then he was at The Battery, and he has been working for the past eight years at Diageo (most recently as the division educator, where he got to nerd out on all kinds of things, from beverage design to leading a fermentation workshop at Tales of the Cocktail).

Lately, he has been geeking out on soda water, tasting through many kinds to understand what makes true mineral waters like Topo Chico taste different from constructed sodas (beyond the carbonation), deep diving into the science of minerals and salt, and how calcium lactate or magnesium chloride makes things taste dry or sweet or balanced or can pack some bite. And by creating their own house acid water, they can add sour notes to cocktails without generating any fresh citrus waste. Nerdy but sustainable!

So, it should be no surprise to learn that carbonated highballs are the primary format at Yabani. Guests will choose their spirit (vodka, gin, mezcal, tequila, rum, whiskey, shochu, arak, or N/A) to add to six different N/A highball cocktail batches on draft, from floral (damask rose hydrosol with toasted kombu, which gives it a gulp-able umami quality), to fruity (watermelon juice with yuzu kosho and vanilla, unexpectedly garnished with a pickled onion, which is kind of like eating a watermelon salad with sliced red onion—all it needs is some feta on the cocktail pick!), to herbaceous (cypress hydrosol with parsley tea), as well as sour, nutty, or umami (the last two are nitro). And, they’re all just $12.

I was invited for a preview tasting while they prep for their soft opening, and the highballs I tried were very crushable and refreshing yet complex and intriguing. If you’re not sure which spirit to choose, the bar team can make a recommendation. They know some of the ingredients may be unfamiliar, so the last page of the menu has a list of terms, from bakanana to hydrosol.

There’s also a list of Yabani standards (not highballs), like the Yabani Martini (a little wet, a little dirty, with gin or vodka), plus sake blended with vermouth, Empirical Olive spirit, and a housemade Levantine brine of 20-plus ingredients (like mastiha, kombu, and mahleb), garnished with olives tossed in a brilliant shichimi togarashi and za’atar mix that you will want in your life.

For the soft opening, Yabani will be open on Fridays and Saturdays from 6pm–1am, starting Friday November 6th, and expanding to more nights in January (possibly adding Thursdays in December, but it depends upon how staff training goes). In February/March 2027, a Japanese-Arab food menu will be added, so get ready for more exciting flavor intersections. 1779 Folsom St. at 14th St.

Even More Bar News and Venue Updates

After seeing one of my favorite local bands, The Seshen, perform at Bottom of the Hill a couple Fridays ago, I was so relieved to find out a few days later that it wasn’t the last live show I was likely going to see there after all! In an exclusive story in COYOTE, you can read the great news that the live music venue will play on with new ownership, and half of the staff is reportedly going to stay. The New Year’s Eve show will now be a farewell party for longtime owners Kathleen Owen, Ramona Downey, and Lynn Schwarz, instead of a closing party. I really enjoyed the story by Emma Silvers, be sure to read it—it’s exactly the kind of feel-good SF news we all need. Rock on! 1233 17th St.

It looks like The Cinch Saloon is going to reopen...

Another place on my to-visit list: there’s a new aperitivo bar (Torino Bar Aperitivo) that recently opened on Van Ness in Russian Hill (prior to the pandemic, it was Ho’s Bootleg Bar & Kitchen). It’s from Sean Halpin, who was a partner in Key Klub (so expect some natural wines on the list); he previously worked at Cellarmaker and brewed at Social Kitchen and Brewery. I reached out to get a copy of the menu, so here you go!

Hours are Tue–Wed 4pm–10pm, Thu 4pm–11pm, and Fri–Sat 4pm–12am. 2360 Van Ness Ave. at Green.

Alas, some unfortunate news in Chinatown: dive bar Red’s Place—which is also the oldest bar in Chinatown (since 1937)—is due to close soon, according to this story on NBC Bay Area. Owner Jerry Chan...

Wine Events on Both Sides of the Bay

There’s yet another 20th anniversary party coming up: Saturday November 7th will be Biondivino Wine Boutique’s Block Party Birthday Bash, an all-day celebration of 20 years of Italian wine and the community who has come along with it. Founder Ceri Smith is closing down a block in Russian Hill for a day of wine, food, music, and friends. Cin cin! 12pm–7pm. 1415 Green St. at Polk.

Over in the East Bay, Saturday November 7th is Italy, Uncorked, an Italian wine and food celebration at Donato & Co. in Berkeley. Enjoy unlimited tastings of 75+ Italian wines, bites from chef Gianluca, and first pick at their artisanal Italian market. Plus: get discounts on Italian wine (and amari) by the bottle. 12pm–4pm. Ticket registration link here: $78.15, including fees (insider tip: locals can buy tickets at the restaurant to avoid the fees). 2635 Ashby Ave., Berkeley.

sponsored event

A Powerful Night of Women in Food and Wine in Support of the Next Generation of Chefs

This Sunday November 1st, the Bay Area’s most influential women in food will gather at The Aviary in the Yerba Buena district in San Francisco for Sprouts Chef Training’s Annual Gala: Powerful Women in Food. And you’re invited!

It’s going to be an unforgettable evening of exceptional food, brilliant chefs (like Nari’s Pim Techamuanvivit and chef Meghan Clark, Laura Ozyilmaz of Maria Isabel and Dalida, Gayle Pirie of Foreign Cinema, Nancy Oakes and Dana Younkin of Boulevard, Melissa Perello of Frances and Octavia, Pam Mazzola of Prospect, and more, plus hospitality leaders, sommeliers (including Shelley Lindgren and Debbie Zachareas), and community champions, with honorary guests Alice Waters of Chez Panisse and Debby Soo, CEO of OpenTable. Emmy Award-winning broadcaster Liam Mayclem will lead the evening’s live auction and fundraising program.

There’s a cocktail and bubbles and nibbles hour at 5pm, followed by a four-course dinner, live auction, and more. And the purpose goes well beyond the plate: proceeds support Sprouts’ work equipping youth facing economic hardship with culinary training, mentorship, and pathways to meaningful employment. 

Tickets start at $650, tables are available. (70% of ticket price is a tax-deductible donation.)

Sunday November 1st, 2026 (5pm–9:30pm)
The Aviary (at The Metreon), 135 4th St., San Francisco

Jobs change lives. Kitchens heal. It takes a village.

the socialite

Indian Restaurant Week Returns in Time for Diwali

Diwali, the Hindu festival of lights, is coming up on November 8th, which coincides with the return of Indian Restaurant Week, running November 1st–14th (the event returns for a second time around Holi).

Six of SF’s leading Indian restaurants (Amber India, Bombay Brasserie, COPRA, New Delhi Restaurant, Rooh, and Tiya) will showcase Diwali-inspired menus celebrating family traditions, regional flavors, and personal culinary stories. Take a look at the website to view the different menus and book your reservation now. 🪔

It’s a great time to become a supporting subscriber (save 20% with the anniversary sale!)—that way I will see you at the next tablehopper 20th anniversary event! 🥂

what’s cookin’

Meowza, the past week was such a whirlwind of events—it was great to see so many of you while I was out and about! Tuesday evening was a viewing party of the Rich Table documentary, offering a behind-the-scenes look at the opening of RT Bistro (you can watch it at the end of this OpenTable post). The party featured a generous cavalcade of bites and beverages, what a dream (I’m glad I walked there and back home that night, I had a feeling it would be a gluttonous good time).

Sunday evening’s reception for Foodwise’s Sunday Supper was another tempest of treats—thanks to all the chefs and bartenders who turned out such swell seasonal apps and creative cocktails. The patio was like a fun food world turbo mixer for 90 minutes. Thanks to Foodwise for everything they do for the community! (I’ll be posting pics from the event on @tablehopper shortly!)

And last Thursday, it was tablehopper’s 20th anniversary PrimeBird dinner, with 20 fabulous subscribers and their guests at our boisterous communal table—the conversations and laughs and Champagne Telmont were flowing all night. Take a look at some party pics here!

The Nightbird team really knocked it out of the park—I’m going to be dreaming about the caramelized pork belly party bite for a while, and I was so touched that their pastry chef, Agnes Hardenstine, made a surprise vanilla, almond, and strawberry anniversary cake for the dinner! Too lovely. Thank you for the incredibly generous hospitality for our group! 

I asked Kim and Ron if they would be open to offering the PrimeBird experience for the holidays in their private dining room, and they said yes, so if you’re looking for a place to host your holiday party, there you go!

(It’s also worth mentioning that 15 Romolo is available for private events right now since their opening is likely pushed out another month or so—just email me if you need an intro.)

Next week, I’m going to be doing a fun giveaway for annual supporting subscribers of 10 invitations to a special anniversary event (it’s free). No, it’s not another tablehopper anniversary event (for the moment), but it is a celebration for another local business that’s turning 20! Save the date: Monday November 2nd, 5:30pm. I’ll reveal all the details next week!

Also happening that Monday night is a pop-up at The Anchovy Bar with chef Ryan Bartlow of Ernesto’s and Bartolo (one of the most beautiful and deeeelicious restaurants I visited on my recent trip to New York; read all about it here). The party is for the launch of Bartlow’s first cookbook, Essentially Basque: Bringing Spanish Cooking Home, co-authored with longtime Anthony Bourdain collaborator and food writer Laurie Woolever. Some of his dishes (pintxos, tortilla de patatas, piquillo rellenos, and quail escabeche) will be served alongside The Anchovy Bar’s nightly à la carte menu—I’m praying for the anchoa y mantequilla (it would make sense!). See you there?! (I’m even dining late, so Spanish, ha-ha!)

Now, on to some civic matters. Have you been looking at your general election ballot packet sitting on your desk or kitchen table for weeks? It’s time to break that envelope open: Election Day is coming on Tuesday November 3rd (that’s in two weeks)! Need some guidance? Thanks to Broke-Ass Stuart, I learned about the Open Ballot app that compares voter guides side by side. It’s really handy and non-partisan—you choose which guides you want to compare. You do you! I usually refer to the online voting guides from the SF Bay Guardian, Juanita MORE!, and the SF League of Pissed-Off Voters, while ignoring every single postcard clogging my mailbox this month. And then it’s time to return that ballot. VOTE early, vote now.

Do you have plans this Friday? A few months ago, I mentioned the inspiring Ask E. Jean documentary about my shero, E. Jean Carroll, and I thought you’d want to know there’s an online screening this Friday October 23rd, hosted by Rise Above Justice Movement. Don’t miss it.

OK, back to the food. Thanks to all of you who entered the SF Restaurant Week gift certificate giveaway last week, and now I hope you’ve been exploring the list of menus and deals from 200 SF restaurants, available through Sunday October 25th. I have some picks for you below.

We’re also in the final days of a fabulous ticket giveaway to the Sprouts Chef Training’s Annual Gala: Powerful Women in Food on Sunday November 1st. One lucky winner will land a pair of tickets to the gala celebrating the Bay Area’s most influential women in food, it’s going to be quite the night!

Cin cin! 🥂
~Marcia

the chatterbox

The Outer Sunset Will Be Smelling Good from Two New Businesses Opening Soon

The Instagram algorithm was doing its thing, and brought the upcoming Bare Bones (“A rotisserie joynt”) to my attention. This neighborhood- and family-friendly spot is opening in the Outer Sunset in the former Bearing West from business partners Dan Levin and Danny Tasker (who folks in the neighborhood will recognize as the bar manager from Sunset Cantina). Levin tells me they brought on chef Edwin Olsen, who has over 30 years of experience in the industry, from The Elite Cafe to Restaurant LuLu, and was a butcher at Real Foods Russian Hill—he has been fine-tuning their rotisserie chicken, as well their porchetta recipe. They’ll be keeping things simple (bare bones, baby!) while sourcing quality ingredients, and making most things themselves.

You’ll be able to order a half or whole chicken with side sauces (ranch, BBQ, aji verde), or roasted porchetta served over green apple and shaved fennel, or get either meat in a sandwich (an Acme sweet deli roll will be dipped in au jus, and filled with arugula, Parmesan, pickled red onion, tomatoes, balsamic glaze, and aji verde). If you don’t want meat, there’s a “not fish and chips” main (crispy beer-battered cauliflower with hand-cut fries and house tartar sauce).

There will be a couple side salads, like one with apple, shaved fennel, baby arugula, toasted pistachios, and dates tossed in a honey vinaigrette, and...

There will be a short list of local beers and wines by the glass, carafe, or bottle. The 49-seat space will keep the same footprint, but is currently being updated with a new and upbeat paint job. Hours will be Thu–Mon 4pm–9pm to start, and they’ll see if the neighborhood can support later hours on the weekend. If inspections go as hoped for, they’re targeting a soft opening on Thursday October 29th. I’ll keep you updated. [I also found this post in Mission Local.] 2325 Taraval St. at 33rd Ave.

Due to open this Friday October 23rd is Black Jet Luncheonette (I previously mentioned it’s opening in the former DamnFine Coffee space, which was once Trouble Coffee back in the day, where Black Jet Baking Co. would deliver pastries). Owner Gillian Shaw Lundgren and baker Max Newman will be bringing over Black Jet favorites (scones, pastries, cookies, and Redacted or Cease and Desist—their spin on a Pop-Tart), plus made-to-order sandwiches (including a meatball grinder, and a breakfast sandwich), and some toast as a salute to Trouble Coffee, which is where SF’s toast craze kicked off over a decade ago, thanks to Giulietta Carrelli. Also: there will be slices of pie. And cake! And Dear Francis coffee. You can try to find a spot to sit in the parklet out front; read additional details in this SF Chronicle piece. Hours will be 7am–3pm. 4033 Judah St. at 45th Ave.

Trattoria da Vittorio Passes the Torch to New Owners

I remember when Trattoria da Vittorio first opened in 2013 in West Portal from Vittorio D’Urzo, who originally launched with some Calabrese dishes on the menu (a salute to where he’s from), pasta, and Neapolitan pizzas. Over the years, the restaurant became a neighborhood and family favorite, and D’Urzo really leaned into wedding catering. But after a great run of 13 years, he decided to retire (he just had his party over the weekend), and a trio of new partners will keep the restaurant’s name and the pizza oven fire burning. 

Both Matteo Avallone and Davide Tringali (Modí, Ciaorigato) worked front of house at the trattoria in its early years, and Avallone even met his now-wife there, so he said it would have been difficult to pass on the opportunity to take over. They have partnered with the talented chef Valerio Martorelli (A16, Bottega on Valencia), who will update the menu with old-style trattoria classics, like housemade pasta with Neapolitan ragù, and comforting pasta alla genovese. Martorelli is from Rome, Avallone is from Salerno, and Tringali is from Sicily, so the menu and wines (and accents) will span across Italy’s regions, but their warm Italian hospitality is something they all share.

For now, they have closed the restaurant for a quick refresh and paint job, and plan to reopen on Monday November 2nd, and they’re talking about hosting a grand opening...

150 West Portal Ave. at Vicente.

Changes, Comebacks, and Closures

After two and a half years in the Hotel Enso in Japantown, Naruephon “Billie” Wannajaro’s upscale (and Michelin-recognized) Thai and Issan restaurant, hed 11, will serve its final tasting menu dinner on Friday October 30th. On November 13th, a second location of the casual Hed Very Thai in FiDi (known for their Thai bento boxes) will open in the same spot. (Wannajaro has also been busy opening hed NYC in West Chelsea, Manhattan.) 1800 Sutter St. at Buchanan.

While I was at the Foodwise Sunday Supper reception, I was chatting with Reem Assil, who shared Reem’s California in the Mission had reopened for lunch last Friday after closing for repairs when a car hit their building back in July. Their hours this week are Wed–Thu and Sun 11am–3pm, and Fri–Sat until 8pm. Welcome back. 2901 Mission St. at 25th St.

Another comeback: per an email from the California Department of Public Health, Tomales Bay growing areas are open as of Sunday 10/18/26. To date, no Tomales Bay–related illnesses have been reported during the time window associated with the spill and closure. So, back to our oysters! 🦪

A reader let me know Uccello Lounge on Van Ness appears to have sadly closed; chef Loretta Keller and Clay Reynolds opened the project on the ground floor of the San Francisco Conservatory of Music’s new building, the Bowes Center, in April 2022. Since it was just across the street from Davies Symphony Hall, it was a favorite for a bite and drink before or after performances in the Civic Center area, and is already missed. I reached out to Reynolds, and will let you know if I hear back. 200 Van Ness Ave. at Hayes.

When I saw the announcement about the closing of Admiral Maltings and The Rake pub in Alameda, my heart sank for all the brewers and beer lovers out there; this SFGATE story goes into the details and impact of the unfortunate closures. 651A W. Tower Ave., Alameda.

Cawfee Tawk: Two New Cafés from SF Coffee OGs

sponsored event

Where to Dine for SF Restaurant Week

Thanks to all of you who entered the SF Restaurant Week giveaway (sponsored by the GGRA), and now, I hope you’ve been exploring the list checking out the 200 participating restaurants—SFRW runs through Sunday October 25th!

Restaurants throughout San Francisco are offering prix-fixe lunch, brunch, and dinner menus for takeout, delivery, indoor, and outdoor dining. Brunch or lunch (2+ courses): $15, $25, $35, $45; and dinner (3+ courses): $30, $45, $60, $75, $90.

A few new participants you can visit include Casa Sofia, Cinderella Cafe & Bakery (both locations), Grand Lake Kitchen Noe, JouJou, Lobby Bar, Parasol, and Pazzia.

I looked over a bunch of the menus, and here are some of my picks (everything is listed on this page)! 

The $15 lunchtime menu at Cinderella is perfect inspiration to go visit their new location in the Mission.

There’s a reason we gave away a gift certificate to Pazzia: because their ethereal gnudi alla fiorentina are on their $60 SFRW dinner menu.

Besharam’s soulful dishes are always so captivating, and take a look at chef Heena’s five-course menu for $75!

The $60 dinner menu at Foreign Cinema is a celebration of peak late summer/early fall shoulder season ingredients, enjoy.

Celebrate Gumbo Social’s reopening with an abundant $15 lunch or their new dinner service for $30. (And pick up a gumbo from their new freezer to bring home.)

Go visit an old-school SF favorite: Blue Plate will really feed you with their $45 three-course dinner menu. Hello, Key lime pie!

My friend chef Rob Lam has his insane beef phở on Lily’s $45 dinner menu, do it.

Like to drink? Merkado is offering a three-course cocktail tasting menu with bites for $30, cool!

Support Old Skool Cafe’s community-minded mission with their $45 dinner menu.

Thank you for supporting our local restaurant industry this week!

the sugar mama

Giveaway Alert! Enter to Win a Pair of Tickets to the Sprouts Powerful Women in Food Gala!

On Sunday November 1st, the Bay Area’s most influential women in food will gather at The Aviary in the Yerba Buena district in San Francisco for Sprouts Chef Training’s Annual Gala: Powerful Women in Food. And you can enter to win a pair of tickets!

It’s going to be an unforgettable evening of exceptional food, brilliant chefs (like Nari’s Pim Techamuanvivit and chef Meghan Clark, Laura Ozyilmaz of Maria Isabel and Dalida, Gayle Pirie of Foreign Cinema, Nancy Oakes and Dana Younkin of Boulevard, Melissa Perello of Frances and Octavia, Pam Mazzola of Prospect, and more, plus hospitality leaders, sommeliers (including Shelley Lindgren and Debbie Zachareas), and community champions, with honorary guests Alice Waters of Chez Panisse and Debby Soo, CEO of OpenTable. Emmy Award-winning broadcaster Liam Mayclem will lead the evening’s live auction and fundraising program. AND, the online auction just went live!

There’s a cocktail and bubbles and nibbles hour at 5pm, followed by a four-course dinner, live auction, and more. And the purpose goes well beyond the plate: proceeds support Sprouts’ work equipping youth facing economic hardship with culinary training, mentorship, and pathways to meaningful employment. 

This week, we’re hosting a giveaway of one pair of tickets to the gala (worth $1300!) over on Instagram. One lucky winner will be announced on Thursday October 22nd at 11am PT, so don’t delay!

Tickets start at $650, tables are available. (70% of ticket price is a tax-deductible donation.)

Sunday November 1st, 2026 (5pm–9:30pm)
The Aviary (at The Metreon), 135 4th St., San Francisco

Jobs change lives. Kitchens heal. It takes a village.

the matchmaker

Tommaso’s Is Hiring a Chef

Help shape Tommaso’s next chapter! A North Beach institution since 1935, Tommaso’s is a beloved Italian restaurant with deep roots, a loyal following, and the West Coast’s first wood-fired brick pizza oven. Our menu is grounded in original Italian recipes and timeless hospitality.

After 51 years under the Crotti family, San Francisco restaurateur Maureen “Mo” Donegan took over in 2024, and reopened the restaurant in January 2025. She’s now seeking a chef to carry Tommaso’s legacy forward, while bringing fresh energy and creativity to its next chapter.

The Opportunity
This hands-on leadership role is ideal for an experienced sous chef, kitchen lead, or senior line cook ready to take ownership of a kitchen, develop a menu, and lead a team. Working closely with Mo, you’ll create new dishes, develop seasonal specials, and build on Tommaso’s nearly century-old Italian tradition.

Responsibilities
- Create dishes, specials, and menu additions.
- Master and care for our 90-year-old wood-fired brick oven.
- Hire, train, mentor, and lead a collaborative kitchen team.
- Manage ordering, inventory, vendors, food costs, and waste.
- Maintain high standards from prep through service.

Qualifications
- Professional, hands-on cooking experience.
- Prior sous chef, kitchen lead, or senior line cook experience.
- Knowledge of pizza, pasta, Italian food, and scratch cooking.
- Creative, organized, collaborative leadership style.
- California Food Handler card and Food Manager certification required.

Compensation
$75,000–$80,000 + bonus potential

For confidential consideration, send your résumé to Chef@tommasos.com. Tommaso’s is an equal opportunity employer.

1042 Kearny St., San Francisco

the starlet

what’s cookin’

Happy weekend, frens. Or should I say, “Hey, sailor?” It’s Fleet Week, and love it or hate it, we have thousands of service men and women roaming and drinking all over The City (especially in North Beach), so have fun with that.

I’m already fired up for Thursday’s tablehopper 20th anniversary PrimeBird dinner at Nightbird, which is going to be over the top (chef Kim Alter’s prime rib service is so creative and delicious). Champagne will be flowing! The guest list is too fabulous—this event quickly became my dream dinner party. There will be some good SF stories and cackles and fun folks at the table, so if you’re thinking about flying solo, you’ll be in the best company. Join the party!

We have just a few spots left—take a look below in the chatterbox below for all the details, and I hope to clink glasses 🥂 with you. (Patron or super patron subscribers get invited to a VIP reception.) This dinner was created to give thanks to my subscribers for all their generous support, so why doncha treat yoself?

I want to share my tremendous gratitude to all of you who sent tips of thanks last week to summer intern Francesca Gasparini—you really showed up with some appreciation for her work over here. Grazie! (If you still feel like contributing, her Venmo is @francescagasparini. Mwah!)

Next Friday October 16th, I’m looking forward to attending the opening reception of We Came Here to See, a solo exhibition by Paul Madonna (All Over Coffee), his first gallery exhibition in over 10 years at Nelson Duni Gallery in the Mission. After a near-fatal, hit-and-run car accident in 2022, Madonna started drawing portraits as part of his healing practice. He asked his community if anyone would want to sit for him as he regained his strength and coordination, and I was honored to be one of those people, so you’ll see my portrait in the exhibition (there’s also a small book he has produced in conjunction with the show). The opening reception on Friday is 4pm–9pm (see you there!), and the closing reception is Thursday December 3rd (4pm–9pm). 35 Bartlett St.

Friday is going to be a busy night, because I’m also heading to The Seshen show at Bottom of the Hill, which may be the last show I see there before the deeply uniquely SF club closes on New Year’s Eve. Sniff sniff. Let me know if you’re going, I adore The Seshen.

I’m also going to be celebrating the 20th anniversary of Sui Generis, which is holding a fun Sip and Shop party for the public with my dream SF DJ lineup (it’s major!) on Saturday October 17th from 12pm–5pm. Congrats, Miguel and Gabriel! 🥂

But first, this Sunday, I’m heading down to Monterey with my parents to attend the grand opening party of our longtime family friends’ new restaurant, The Gig, which just opened in a historic restaurant space on Old Fisherman’s Wharf. I’ll be sure to say hi to any otters (my spirit animal).

Next week is the beginning of SF Restaurant Week (October 16th–25th), with so many deals and special menus (book your reservations now!), and don’t miss the giveaway we’re hosting: you can enter to win one of two gift certificates to dine out at Pazzia or Crustacean (check out the sugar mama below). 

Enjoy the sun, may it lift your spirits up from the news this weekend. I also have a scoop on a new bar that is softly open in Nob Hill that will lift spirits (to your lips).

Cheers, my dears.
~Marcia

the chatterbox

10/20 Vision! The Next tablehopper Anniversary Event Is an Extra-Fabulous PrimeBird Dinner This Thursday October 15th!

Last call for tickets to the tablehopper 20th anniversary version of a PrimeBird dinner this coming Thursday October 15th with Nightbird’s Kim Alter and Ron Boyd (currently celebrating 10 years)! For our double anniversary 🥂 night, Kim and Ron are pulling out all the stops on their modern steakhouse dinner I fell in love with when they first ran it a couple years ago. It’s their homage to House of Prime Rib, with Nightbird’s Cali-soigné touch. We’ll dine together at a communal table in the private dining room flanking Nightbird. 

Awesome patrons and super patrons have access to a VIP reception (6pm–6:30pm), with The Caviar Co. canapés, and Champagne Telmont is back supporting my anniversary events with their elegant bubbles (merci!).

Starting at 6:30pm, ticketed tablehopper annual subscribers (and their guests) will join the party, and everyone will be welcomed with a brilliant cocktail from the adjoining The Linden Room that’s going to be featured in the upcoming Hopper 100 (it’s a surprise—I don’t want to give it away!) while we mingle over some old-school/new-school snacks (Kim and Ron love party bites). 

Once everyone arrives, we’ll start sitting down at our communal table by 7pm, beginning with the Little Gems with Green Goddess dressing (our beloved SF dressing—tarragon is my love language), plus Nightbird’s farro bread with cultured butter (so divine), and a glass of Réserve Brut from Champagne Telmont. Cin cin!

The main event will feature a rosy slice of 45-day, dry-aged Flannery Beef prime rib (the “Jorge” cut); creamed spinach; baked potato with all the fixings; herbed horseradish, truffle, and cheddar Yorkshire pudding (whut); and demented sauces (like smoked bone marrow wagyu Hollandaise!). It’s all sooooo good. Don’t miss this dinner.

With the prime rib course, you have the choice of a Martini or glass of red wine. (Don’t drive to this dinner, okay?) We’ll wrap up with a custom 10th/20th anniversary dessert Kim is devising, as well as a couple cute sweets. 

The team is really spoiling us with this event: the entire dinner is only $150 (the three drinks mentioned above are included!), plus tax, 20% service charge, and SF mandate (6%), coming to $202.91 total. (For comparison, the regular PrimeBird meal—which doesn’t come with our special snacks, caviar, Champagne/cocktail/wine, and extra dessert treats—was $85/$115 all in, so this is a total steal. Who loves you?) Tremendous thanks to The Caviar Co. and Champagne Telmont for the generous support!

Sorry, no alterations to the menu. Additional drinks are extra. (If you prefer N/A beverages instead of what’s listed above, let Nightbird know when you buy your ticket.)

HOW TO GET A TICKET:

You must be a tablehopper annual subscriber to buy a ticket, and you can get a ticket for one guest (but encourage them to subscribe—there is even a sale right now!). If you want to bring more peeps, drop me a note and I’ll see what we can do! 🥂

Just email me (you can also hit reply to this newsletter) to book your spot and once I confirm your subscription level (annual, patron, super patron), I’ll connect you with Nightbird, who will have you pay in full ahead of the dinner. No refunds, no cancellations, no flaking. 

Thursday October 15th. 6pm: reception for Patrons and Super Patrons. 6:30pm: entry for annual subscribers. Cheers! 334 Gough St. at Linden.

Think Pink: Handroll Hawker Is Already on a Roll in Russian Hill

While we had that little blip of delicious heat last week, I went to check out the new Handroll Hawker in Russian Hill that I first wrote about back in July. The pink corner shop was previously Tonic (most recently Zero&), and brings some sunny, Aussie energy, thanks to Romi Trower, an Australian filmmaker and Melbourne native who enlisted the Flour + Water Hospitality Group as consulting partners on the project. She was missing Australian-style, grab-and-go handrolls since she moved here in 2019, which back home are a casual lunchtime staple and available everywhere. 

The menu features some Aussie classics, like cooked tuna (imagine tuna salad in olive oil with mayo and cucumber), alongside popular picks like spicy tuna (which isn’t chopped up like we do here), spicy salmon, tempura shrimp, and California faves like salmon avocado (or cucumber avocado). Trower says she could just open a store serving spicy tuna, salmon avocado, and shrimp tempura (those are good ones to try first).

There’s also a crispy chicken roll if you’re feeling adventurous, and cooked shrimp with avocado, cucumber, and sesame seeds. Some of the rolls feature housemade mayo or spicy yuzu mayo, which some people may not like, but I’m definitely on team mayo (I have three kinds in my fridge). 

These are a far cry from the premade temaki you’d find at a local market—the first thing that stood out for me is the rice, with a texture and flavor right up there with the shari you’d find at some of our better sushi restaurants. Trower brought on executive chef Tai Trinh, who was formerly head chef at Robin for three years, which explains why the rice is so good (he uses a combination of white and Japanese red vinegar). The ingredients are well-sourced, and since the fillings are simple, the gorgeous pieces of tuna (not chopped up trim), fresh salmon, and perfectly ripe avocado stand out.

All the rolls are $7 each, and you can get a price break with sets (3 rolls for $18, 4 for $24)—they’re just under four inches long. For lunch, I ate two-and-a-half rolls, and snacked on the rest after my pilates class. They make everything fresh daily, and since it’s all premade, you can’t really request modifications. I compared the rolls fresh from the shop versus hanging out in my fridge for a couple hours, and I actually preferred the cooked tuna and spicy salmon with a bit of chill. The nori wrapper on the rolls is soft and easy to bite, and contains everything pretty well (although the spears of cucumber were a bit awkward and fell out in big pieces).

These handrolls are a no-brainer for when you want a quick bite on the go: instead of a filling burrito or sandwich, you can snag a couple handrolls that are fresh and light (although, if you want to go for the crispy chicken, you can do that, too). I can see these going into heavy rotation for folks after working out at the gyms and fitness studios in the neighborhood—I know where I’ll be going after yoga. There’s also miso soup in a coffee cup for $3.50, and I enjoyed the refreshing yuzu lemonade ($4) on the sunny day.

The space is mostly designed for grab and go, but there are a few tables inside and pink ones (of course) outside on the sidewalk. While you wait in line, be sure to take a closer look at the mural by Serge Gay Jr. for some fun custom details.

Trower has been thrilled by the enthusiastic reception by the neighborhood (she says it has been bananas!), with lines down the block, and repeat customers already coming back for more—even little kids are into it, and catering orders are rolling in (lol).

They can’t even think about delivery right now, so you gotta swing by in person. Open daily 11:30am–7:30pm. 2360 Polk St. at Union.

Restaurant Rotations in Union Square and the Former Leo’s Oyster Bar

Heads-up, kouign amann lovers: come March 1st, 2027, the San Francisco Recreation and Parks Department just announced b. Patisserie will be leaving its Union Square kiosk after two years, and the Bay Area restaurant group that’s behind Colibrí and Il Parco in the Presidio (Buen Rallo, LLC) will be bringing an all-day Italian concept to the space called La Piazza. Come spring 2027, you can start your day with espresso drinks, housemade pastries and baked goods, breakfast sandwiches, and frittatas, while later in the day, the menu will shift to salads, pizzas, panini, and pastas, along with beer, wine, cocktails, and seasonal non-alcoholic drinks. The café will have a wraparound veranda with seating for more than 30 people, and will be open daily 6:30am–7pm, staying open until 8pm on Fri–Sat. La Piazza is anticipated to secure a nine-year lease, and FYI, Super Duper Burgers is preparing to open in the east café on the Stockton Street side this fall. 

A few weeks ago, the news came out in the SF Chronicle that Brad Kilgore—the Miami chef who was at the three Transamerica businesses that abruptly closed in May (the stylish Ama by Brad Kil­gore, Café Sebastian, and Mad­Lab Kakigori)—is taking over Anna Weinberg’s recently shuttered Leo’s Oyster Bar to open The Bonacker with man­aging part­ner Julian Uribe.

A Grab Bag of Updates and News Bites

Did you know that Sam’s Grill (my favorite old-school SF seafood spot) has brought back Saturday dinner service? I went in for dinner last Saturday (I got to introduce my friend Victor to celery Victor), and the place was busy, with tables and private booths full of folks soaking in the classic ambiance (while enjoying the A/C). It’s probably the only time you could sit at Willie Brown’s front table—while enjoying my Oliver Twist Martini at the bar, I informed a group of diners that they were about to be seated at an impossible table to book during the week. Open Sat 5:30pm–9pm. 374 Bush St.

Another spot open for Saturday service is Bruno’s Italian Taste, the casual Calabrese spot in Yerba Buena (you can read my opening story here), serving panini on their housemade bread, pizza, pasta, homey dishes like eggplant parm, desserts (don’t miss Fabio’s pistachio tiramisù), and Italian wines. Open Sat 12pm–7pm. 606 Mission St. at 2nd St.

Good news: after suffering damage from a fire in June, Che Fico is reopening on Sunday October 18th, and reservations are open now. 838 Divisadero St.

Closures Around Town 

After 15 years, Castro dim sum and Sichuan standby, Mama Ji’s, is closing at the end of October. Hoodline reports owners Lily Ji and husband Marv Wolpa posted a sign in the window announcing the upcoming closure. 4416 18th St.

A friend who lives near the Castro told me that The Rustic (in the former Chow) had been closed for a few weeks, with a makeshift sign on the door that said: “Temporarily closed until next week.” I noticed they were still taking reservations on OpenTable, and after waiting a week, I reached out to the restaurant via Instagram, but didn’t hear back. Yelp users report it’s closed, and now Hoodline confirms it has been sold to a new owner. I hope things improve on that block, it’s a tough one. 215 Church St.

Over in the Inner Richmond, the longtime (since 1979!) Vietnamese Mai’s Restaurant has closed. What a run. 316 Clement St. [Via SF Chronicle] 

the sugar mama

San Francisco Restaurant Week Returns October 16th—Enter to Win One of Two Gift Certificates to Dine in Style!

Attention all food lovers! Get ready for San Francisco’s most exciting culinary event of the fall: San Francisco Restaurant Week (running Friday October 16th through Sunday October 25th, 2026). Celebrate the flavors of The City and enter to win a gift certificate at participating San Francisco Restaurant Week restaurants: we’re giving away a $150 gift certificate to Pazzia, and another $125 gift certificate to Crustacean! 

Delectable weekend brunch? Indulgent five-star dinner? SF Restaurant Week brings you lunch and dinner options from nearly 200 restaurants, including Besharam, Copra, Che Fico Pizzeria, EPIC Steak, Penny Roma, Rose’s Cafe, Tony’s Pizza Napoletana, and more!

Restaurants will offer special prix-fixe menus at one or more of the following price points:
- brunch or lunch (2+ items or courses): $15, $25, $35, $45
- dinner (3+ items or courses): $30, $45, $60, $75, $90

Visit sfrestaurantweek.com to see all participating restaurants and make your reservations now!

To enter to win a $150 gift certificate to Pazzia OR $125 to Crustacean, visit this @tablehopper post on Instagram! Two lucky winners will be selected on Wednesday October 14th at 11am PT. Good luck!

sponsored event

A Powerful Night of Women in Food and Wine in Support of the Next Generation of Chefs

On Sunday November 1st, the Bay Area’s most influential women in food will gather at The Aviary in the Yerba Buena district in San Francisco for Sprouts Chef Training’s Annual Gala: Powerful Women in Food. And you’re invited!

It’s going to be an unforgettable evening of exceptional food, brilliant chefs (like Nari’s Pim Techamuanvivit and chef Meghan Clark, Laura Ozyilmaz of Maria Isabel and Dalida, Gayle Pirie of Foreign Cinema, Nancy Oakes and Dana Younkin of Boulevard, Melissa Perello of Frances and Octavia, Pam Mazzola of Prospect, and more, plus hospitality leaders, sommeliers (including Shelley Lindgren and Debbie Zachareas), and community champions, with honorary guests Alice Waters of Chez Panisse and Debby Soo, CEO of OpenTable. Emmy Award-winning broadcaster Liam Mayclem will lead the evening’s live auction and fundraising program.

There’s a cocktail and bubbles and nibbles hour at 5pm, followed by a four-course dinner, live auction, and more. And the purpose goes well beyond the plate: proceeds support Sprouts’ work equipping youth facing economic hardship with culinary training, mentorship, and pathways to meaningful employment. 

Tickets start at $650, tables are available. (70% of ticket price is a tax-deductible donation.)

Sunday November 1st, 2026 (5pm–9:30pm)
The Aviary (at The Metreon), 135 4th St., San Francisco

Jobs change lives. Kitchens heal. It takes a village.

the lush

Scoop: Take a First Look Inside Olde Fashioned, a New Nob Hill Bar Designed with an Old-School SF Sensibility 

After Nob Hill’s cute mini disco, Zhuzh Bar, sadly closed on Pride Sunday, I was wondering what was next for the stylish lil’ spot (especially since it’s just blocks away from my still-new-to-me apartment). As I was driving by last week, I noticed some people inside, and I’m happy to report the Polk Gulch/Nob Hill neighborhood has a new bar that’s eager to host us with true SF-style hospitality. 

Meet Olde Fashioned, from Eric Passetti, who brought on Will Herrera, operating partner of Harlan Records, to transform the space into its latest iteration and concept (they partnered on Harlan Records, which opened in 2022, and have worked together on many projects over the years, like Café Terminus, and recently Bar Malone’s in SoMa). Both of them have been deeply embedded in SF’s hospitality scene for decades, and they know the neighborhood well—Herrera shares they worked together at Pesce when Ruggero Gadaldi ran it up Polk Street in the aughts, and have been reminiscing about the authentic kind of hospitality and community they built there. (Trust me, I already requested Herrera to please bring back the sgroppino they used to serve.)

Herrera envisions Olde Fashioned to become a third space to balance people’s lives, where you can come have a drink without pretense, or a conversation (or even several) at the long bar. He says, “We think we know what one of our favorite neighborhoods in San Francisco deserves, which is a neighborhood bar, a bar that actually understands them, that can read the tea leaves in just the right way. We have catered to this clientele for a really long time, and it’s a community that we absolutely adore.”

As for the décor, Herrera wanted to reimagine the space as if the Victorian era never went out of fashion. As San Franciscans, he observes how we love our history, and our architecture, and the people (and characters) who have shaped our city—he plans to pay homage to prominent local figures, like Mary Ellen Pleasant, Julia Morgan, and Maya Angelou. He wants folks to come in and have the bar offer a familiar San Francisco sense of place, reminiscent of a drawing room or a salon or a Victorian library (but there would have to be a draft, haha). 

So, Zhuzh’s leopard wallpaper and hot pink DJ booth are kaput, and the cluster of disco balls has been replaced with a grouping of vintage pendant lights. The room feels warm and classic, but not fusty or old timey. (Herrera says Marissa Jade Marsh helped bring the design to life.) Zhuzh’s floral wallpaper along the wall with the curving ceiling arch remains, and the long bar now has a wood top instead of copper, with glowing globe lights overhead (akin to the lighting at Passetti’s new Bar Malone’s—ditto the glossy epoxy floor), and upholstered barstools in a slate blue that matches the color of the painted wainscoting that runs under the standing bar ledge. 

In the back is a wall of vintage art (there is one piece that absolutely commands your attention), mirrors, maps, and framed pieces hung in an eclectic salon-style, and the former DJ booth is now a petite corner stage. Since they have an entertainment license, the plan is to have some live jazz—Herrera has been hosting a lot of live music at Harlan, so they have a pretty good pipeline of jazz bands.

As for the menu, like the bar’s name, they really want to get back to the classics and eliminate the pressure that patrons sometimes have reading through a whole menu of ingredients they don’t know while trying to imagine the cocktail (Will quips: “Our drinks won’t require a chemistry exam for every single order”). Instead, they want to develop a bridge of trust with their patrons much sooner through a cocktail program that is familiar and approachable. You’ll see all your old friends: an Olde Fashioned, Sazerac, Manhattan, Negroni, Americano, and Daiquiri, with some N/A options. Amazingly, the house cocktails are only $13, with $10 well drinks, and beers are $8 (still slightly under market).

But, if you want to order something off-menu, or have your bartender surprise you, they will have a crew that is receptive to that. Since I was just rolling in from a wine tasting, Herrera made me a delightful spin on a Hugo Spritz-meets-Gambler, with notes of bitter orange and dry vermouth (he made it with Italicus and Dolin’s Genepy Le Chamois), topped with the crémant they have on the menu and a sprig of mint. It was made with care, garnished with flair, and served in an engraved vintage glass. Yup, I think I just found my new local. To that point, Herrera says, “Yes, we need people to come back out, but what I think is even more imperative is why or what’s the motivation?” $13 well-made cocktails served in vintage glassware with a friendly staff and a comfy bar open late three blocks from my apartment will motivate me.

They’re in soft-opening mode right now, and just getting up to speed with staffing, service, and dialing in the cocktails, so they’re keeping the hours limited (and have been trying to keep things quiet). Hours for now are Tue–Sat 5pm–12am, eventually expanding last call to 1:30am, and they will be opening on Sundays and Mondays as well (which all the industry people in the neighborhood should be happy about). They look forward to serving you. 1548 California St. at Polk.

the socialite

Next Sunday October 18th is the Foodwise Sunday Supper, their big, annual fundraising gala featuring 35 restaurants, and this year, they’re offering a special reception-only ticket, a walk-around tasting experience showcasing hors d’oeuvres and drinks from 30 restaurants and beverage makers in the Ferry Building front plaza. (It’s always my favorite part of the event.)

Here’s a little teaser of some bites: Abacá: pork jowl tocino with marinated K&J Orchards apples; and from Tsar Nicoulai Caviar Café: tartlet with kabocha mousse, honey-glazed squash, and caviar. Beverage makers include Bar Orso, Brucato Amaro, Buddy, Charbay, plus California wines, and more! See you there! 4:30pm–6pm.

And, yes, they still have tickets to the four-course dinner, A Farm-to-City Feast, which also includes the reception and a live auction with one-of-a-kind packages. Some dishes served at the dinner upstairs will include The Happy Crane: “mouthwatering” last of summer salad: mian jin, 8 treasure tomatoes, marinated eggplant and celtuce; and from Californios, lamb barbacoa: smoked and grilled whole lamb and shoulder with grilled Jimmy Nardellos and dates with pinquito beans, tortillas, consome, and three salsas.

For the next few days, Abacá is hosting a bunch of guest chefs, bartenders, and winemakers for a week of events to celebrate Filipino-American History Month, including Pulutan Nights (a night market) on Monday October 12th, a Kamayan (communal feast) on Wednesday October 14th, and Paubaya Tasting Dinner (wine-paired tasting) on Friday October 16th. Read more about the guests and formats here. 2700 Jones St. at North Point.

Cheers to 20 years! Let’s celebrate! 🥂 Become an annual supporting subscriber and save 20% forever! I’d love to see you at PrimeBird on the 15th! 🍸

what’s cookin’

Hello, earthlings. Your gurl has just barely touched down after a four-day extravaganza of music, kicking off with Soulwax performing at The Regency Ballroom last Thursday night (what a full-throttle show, they played like they stole it!), followed by three nonstop days and late nights dancing at Portola Festival inside the spaceship of my most-adored music and sound and dance experience in this lifetime, Despacio. (If you don’t want to read this, just skip ahead to the second photo of the disco ball.)

It was a gorgeous 20-hour infusion of much-needed joy (THANKS, I REALLY NEEDED THAT) and Dionysian release (I left it all on the dance floor) and disco ball stupefaction and re/connection with the most inspiring community of international dance party friends who know how to show up (and get down). I’m going to take a momentito to germinate the seedlings of my thoughts and feelings and impressions and stories into something tangible like actual words. (This was my recap from last year’s Portola, so you can see why it’s gonna take a minute.) And, your dancing queen needed to go to her appointment today for an injection in her knee—I knew 20K+ steps a day for four days would come calling. Hello, ma’am!

I loved meeting and dancing with some of you rad subscribers who told me you came because of my “rhapsodic” piece from last year. Awww. Strong work! Despuesio is a thing—and the Despacio Fan Club can help with the comedown (join the Discord and/or the r/Despacio reddit). This Despacio playlist from Portola 2025 is also tiding me over until the 2026 recordings and playlists come out because the songs will haunt you—all hail the TSOT/the spreadsheet of truth.

I started posting pics, videos, and stories on @tablehopper—including a cuuuute Despacio Fan Club Pre-Tola brunch at Side A—stand by for more disco ball moments and unbelievable dance floor postcards as soon as I send this thing! I’m so damn lucky and grateful for all the unrivaled joy and laughs and ass-shaking and cosmic downloads and connection and LOVE I just experienced. My heart. I’m soaring and feeling so much lighter. What a ride. (Get off the speakers!)

Thank you to everyone who pours their errrrrything into honoring and creating the world’s best dance floor, one that simultaneously pulls from the bins of everything I’ve ever deeply loved about dance and music and sound and party people, and yet massively transcends anything I have ever experienced before. I love you, I love you, I looovvvvvvvve!

In the meantime, I know some of you just barely finished the 8,200-word tome I wrote last week about tablehopper’s 20th anniversary and the reopening of 15 Romolo in October. (Ha-ha, sorry not sorry.) And I have a bunch of wonderful pics coming on @tablehopper about the party, too! (It’s so hard to keep up. If only I didn’t have to write, too.) Thanks to the work of summer intern Francesca Gasparini, this week we’re following up with her archivist piece on 15 Romolo history that she researched and wrote, as well as a couple other pieces.

In my previous column, I asked if any of you could join me in saying thanks for Francesca’s dedicated work and please tip our intern some “walking around money” (which is what my grandmother used to call it) as she goes back to school, and I was quite dismayed to learn there was only ONE PERSON who threw her some dough. Really? There are thousands of you. My friend (the sole person who sent her anything) suggested I mention it again, so, can you please consider sending Francesca a lil’ tip of appreciation instead of thinking someone else is gonna do it for you? (Which in the end is going to be me.) Her Venmo is @francescagasparini. Grazie mille!

All aboard! The tablehopper 20th anniversary party train keeps on chugging, wooo wooo! This week’s column has all the info you need below about the second event in the series: tablehopper’s 10/20 anniversary PrimeBird dinner with Nightbird on Thursday October 15th! If you love House of Prime Rib, then you’re going to lose your mind over this modern tribute from chef Kim Alter and co-owner/GM/beverage manager Ron Boyd, who are making this tablehopper subscriber only-dinner so extra-magical. Like the title of my life story, #therewillbeChampagne. (And Yorkshire pudding.) Don’t miss it!

More anniversary fun: I was so fired up to see tablehopper included as a Best of the Bay 2026 Editors’ Pick by 48 Hills! Awwww, great timing! (Fellow journalist Tamara Palmer wrote one heck of a thoughtful accolade, thank you!) The last time I won, it was for Best Fresh Scuttlebutt (lol) in 2007, and Best of the Bay 2011 and 2012 Readers Poll: Best Food/Drinks Blog or Site! (Hey, we can do it again, please vote for tablehopper for best local website!)

Read more Best of the Bay editorial picks here. Did you know the Bay Guardian was the first city paper to ask its readers to vote on their local favorites, all the way back in 1974?!

You can cast your vote in the 52nd annual Bay Guardian Best of the Bay Readers’ Poll, hosted by 48 Hills. Psssst, a little birdie just told me voting has been extended through Monday October 5th at midnight (you heard it here first). Hop to it!

What’s your favorite burrito or hair salon or yoga studio? (And please vote for tablehopper for best local website!) You don’t have to fill out every category to enter, but show as much love as you can—and don’t forget to hit the “Submit” button at the end. Get the word out to all your friends and favorite local businesses and customers!

Speaking of local businesses and haps I love: if you’re looking for something restorative yet stimulating with some very SF-community-minded programming, don’t miss First Sundays at Alchemy Springs; check out this Sunday’s lineup here. See you in the Sauna Garden!

More shindigs: a couple weekends ago, I was invited by SF New Deal to cover the third The Funky Brunch at The Nosh Box (take a peek at my pics), and fall was in the air with their Warren pear toast (which thankfully is still on the menu), DJs, sunshine, and cute vibes. This fun and funky daytime brunch returns every other month, thanks in part to Downtown ENRG, a program supporting arts, community experiences, and nightlife programming in SF (as well as this independent publication, thanks!). I’ll keep you posted on the next one! 

OK, let’s jump in. Happy Rocktober! 

Yours in disco and L.O.V.E.,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

10/20 Vision! The Next tablehopper Anniversary Event Is an Extra-Fabulous PrimeBird Dinner on Thursday October 15th!

Last week, I sent a teaser that I’m cohosting a tablehopper 20th anniversary version of a PrimeBird dinner with Nightbird’s Kim Alter and Ron Boyd (currently celebrating 10 years)! For our double anniversary 🥂 night, Kim and Ron are pulling out all the stops on their modern steakhouse dinner I fell in love with when they first ran it a couple years ago. It’s their homage to House of Prime Rib, with Nightbird’s Cali-soigné touch.

We had to shift the date to Thursday October 15th, but I really hope you can make it! We’ll dine together in the private dining room flanking Nightbird. 

All you awesome patrons and super patron subscribers have access to a VIP reception (6pm–6:30pm), with The Caviar Co. canapés, and Champagne Telmont is back supporting my anniversary events with their elegant bubbles (merci!).

Please let me know if you have a sponsorship at the patron/super patron level when you reserve your ticket (see below for instructions). You also have priority access/first crack at tickets—thanks for your generous support.

Starting at 6:30pm, ticketed tablehopper annual subscribers (and their guests) will join the party, and everyone will be welcomed with a brilliant cocktail from the adjoining The Linden Room that’s going to be featured in the upcoming Hopper 100 (it’s a surprise—I don’t want to give it away!) while we mingle over some old-school/new-school snacks (Kim and Ron love party bites). 

Once everyone arrives, we’ll start sitting down at our communal table by 7pm, beginning with the Little Gems with Green Goddess dressing (our beloved SF dressing—tarragon is my love language), plus Nightbird’s farro bread with cultured butter (so divine), and a glass of Réserve Brut from Champagne Telmont. Cin cin!

The main event will feature a rosy slice of 45-day, dry-aged Flannery Beef prime rib (the “Jorge” cut); creamed spinach; baked potato with all the fixings; herbed horseradish, truffle, and cheddar Yorkshire pudding (whut); and demented sauces (like smoked bone marrow wagyu Hollandaise!). It’s all sooooo good.

With the prime rib course, you have the choice of a Martini or glass of red wine. (Don’t drive to this dinner, okay?) We’ll wrap up with a custom 10th/20th anniversary dessert Kim is devising, as well as a couple cute sweets. 

The team is really spoiling us with this event: the entire dinner is only $150 (the three drinks mentioned above are included!), plus tax, 20% service charge, and SF mandate (6%), coming to $202.91 total. (For comparison, the regular PrimeBird meal—which doesn’t come with our special snacks, caviar, Champagne/cocktail/wine, and extra dessert treats—was $85/$115 all in, so this is a total steal. Who loves you?) Tremendous thanks to The Caviar Co. and Champagne Telmont for the generous support!

Sorry, no alterations to the menu. Additional drinks are extra. (If you prefer N/A beverages instead of what’s listed above, let Nightbird know when you buy your ticket.)

HOW TO GET A TICKET:

You must be a tablehopper annual subscriber to buy a ticket, and you can get a ticket for one guest (but encourage them to subscribe—there is even a sale right now!). If you want to bring more peeps, drop me a note and I’ll see what we can do! 🥂

Once I confirm your subscription level (annual, patron, super patron), I’ll connect you with Nightbird, who will have you pay in full ahead of the dinner. No refunds, no cancellations, no flaking. 

This event has super-limited seating, so don’t delay on booking your spot! Just email me (you can also hit reply to this newsletter) and I’ll let you know very soon if you’re in (I’m going to take 24 hours to let patrons and super patrons secure their reservations first).

If we end up getting a lot of interest, we may schedule a second date, or more! So, if October 15th doesn’t work for you, but you’d still like to attend another time, please let me know! I’d love to see you. This dinner is going to be a feast and a blast!

Thursday October 15th. 6pm: reception for Patrons and Super Patrons. 6:30pm: entry for annual subscribers. Cheers! 334 Gough St. at Linden.

News Briefs: Openings and Pop-Ups and Project Changes and Closures

Here are some quick news bites for ya. I’ll be following up on a few of these stories with in-person visits soon, but for now:

The City’s First Nikkei Handroll Bar Opens in Cow Hollow

By Francesca Gasparini

Last month, another handroll bar opened its doors in Cow Hollow, but this time with a Latin twist. KAIYŌ Handroll Bar is the new sister restaurant to the KAIYŌ Resturant and KAIYŌ Rooftop in the Hyatt Place San Francisco. The trio of restaurants, spearheaded by John Park and his Brick X Brick Hospitality Group, all surround Nikkei: a culinary tradition originating from Japanese immigrants in Peru that uses Japanese cooking techniques with native Peruvian ingredients.

I was able to stop by for a preview before their grand opening to try some of their signature handrolls and get eyes on the new space. The restaurant had a hipster feel with neon signs, a ceiling of wagasa (Japanese sun umbrellas), and shoji-inspired wall designs.

The menu, brought to life by chef Alex Reccio and chef de cuisine Kenji Sawada, highlights classic Peruvian dishes like lomo saltado (stir-fried beef with onions, tomatoes, and potatoes), anticuchos (Peruvian meat skewers), as well as a variety of ceviches, small bites, and, of course, handrolls.

The cocktail menu is a fruity display curated by Danny Louie and the beverages even extend to matcha mocktails and boozy matcha soft serve.

We ordered a chicken anticucho starter that came with a side of Peruvian corn and and crispy potatoes, as well as a selection of handrolls: the chu toro tiradito (bluefin tuna tataki, leche de tigre, avocado cream, chalaquilla), hotate ceviche (Hokkaido scallop, onion, kombu, tobiko, garlic chip), the arroz con pato (roasted duck, cilantro rice, sansho pepper, unagi, and gooseberry sauce), and the torotaku (otoro fatty bluefin tuna, takuan, shiso).

The handroll bar is planning to work their way into the nightlife scene with late hours and DJs. The space will stay open past service with a limited menu of small plates to pair with craft cocktails like the shima (pisco, pandan, pineapple, coconut, pineapple amaro, lime) and the hana no Manhattan (Japanese whisky, rye whiskey, jasmine tea, cherry blossom fortified wine, angostura bitters). Hours are Tue–Thu 4pm–12am, Fri–Sat 4pm–1am, Sun 4pm–9pm. 1838 Union St. at Octavia.

the sponsor

Vote Now for Best of the Bay 2026

Best Burrito? Best Dive Bar? Best Date Restaurant? Best Coffee? Best Pizza? The 48 Hills/Bay Guardian’s 52nd Best of the Bay Readers’ Poll is open now—tell us what you love! Every year, thousands of locals weigh in with their favorites in dozens of categories.

Winners are announced in October and celebrated at the acclaimed Best of the Bay Gala. You’re the first to know that voting has been extended to midnight on Monday October 5th, so hurry and vote—and tell your friends and favorite businesses to get the word out! 

the socialite

Celebrate Latine Makers at This Saturday’s Pop-Ups on the Plaza with Foodwise

By Francesca Gasparini

This Saturday October 3rd, is Foodwise’s Pop-Ups on the Plaza: Celebrating Latine Makers, presenting a day of delicious food, beverages, and artisan goods by over 12 Latine-owned local businesses in honor of Hispanic Heritage Month. Taking place at the Ferry Terminal Plaza and the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, this makers’ market will include mouthwatering Latine culinary feats and treats, like Cuban roast pork sandwiches, Colombian pastries, conchas, and Oaxacan tlayudas, as well as fun activities, like cooking demonstrations by chef Amalia Avendano of Tonantzin Mexican Cuisine, and baker Raquel Goldman of Norte 54.

Participating vendors include Chi Chi’s Kiosko, Clandestina Cocina, Dulce Maná, Flor de Chile, MexEvents/Casa Bonampak, Mi Comedor, Norte 54, Painted Leopard, Pass the Sauced, Semilla, SoulCraft Apotheca, Tonantzin Mexican Cuisine, and Xula Guatemalan Cuisine. The event is free (food is available for purchase) and runs from 9am–2pm. 1 Ferry Plaza.

the archivist

More Than Just a Restaurant: The Basque Hotel

By Francesca Gasparini

Although the Basque Hotel Restaurant blade sign still proudly outstretches from the corner of Broadway and Romolo above the marquee lights of the Hungry I Club, the traditional Basque boarding house and its restaurant have not hosted guests for many years.

Basque boarding houses (known locally as ostatuaks) were first constructed during the Gold Rush and acted as cultural centers for young Basque men seeking solidarity within their immigrant community in San Francisco. The National Park Service notes these hotels were not only vital in upholding cultural practices like language, culinary tradition, religion, and pilota (a beloved traditional Basque sport), they also played a key role in helping Basques find work and spouses.

According to Euskal Kazeta, the first of these boarding houses was built in 1866, and many were established throughout the latter half of the 19th century. Hotel Vasco on Powell Street was among the earliest, run by Martina Aguirre and her husband. Unfortunately, most of San Francisco’s “Basque Town” was destroyed in the 1906 earthquake and fire.

In the aftermath came the cluster of hotels and restaurants separating Chinatown and North Beach that many of you may be familiar with. These establishments thrived throughout much of the 1900s, until business began to weaken when Basques began to settle down and move out of the boarding houses around the 1960s. The Basque Hotel and Hotel des Alpes & Restaurant at 732 Broadway (which funnily enough became Rosewood, another Jon Gasparini and Greg Lindgren bar project) were among the last.

Nestled in the steep alleyway of Romolo, perched just above the bustling jazz clubs and striptease joints of Broadway, lies the remnants of the old Basque Hotel. Constructed in 1912, the hotel functioned as a boarding house for traveling Basques from 1964–1996.

This historic hotel had many ownership turnovers throughout the years, but was originally opened in 1964 by Marthe and Pierre Bigue. According to Gardeners of Identity: Basques in the San Francisco Bay Area by Pedro J. Oiarzabal, Marthe had previously owned Hotel du Midi, another Basque hotel located at 1362 Powell Street, before buying and opening The Basque Hotel and Restaurant. 

A dissertation by Jerónima Echeverría at North Texas State University, titled A History of California’s Basque Hotels, identifies Joseph and Madeleine Gestas as the successors to the Bigues. The paper goes on to outline the hotel’s subsequent ownership transfers: Sauveur and Anna Anchartechahar took over in 1975, followed by Antoinette and Francisco (Daniel-Francisco) Oroz, who leased the building from the Achartechahars from 1979 to 1985. Finally, Rebecca and Jean-Emile Idiart purchased and operated the hotel and restaurant from 1985 until its closure in 1996.

The tenants who occupied this twenty-five room hotel were most commonly shepherds, fishermen, and cooks who traveled from the Basque Country in search of work and new roots. Idiart was said to have taken up five separate units all to himself to create one huge apartment during his years of operation. But beyond the upper floors of otherwise modest lodging accommodations, what this spot was really known for was its traditional French Basque dinner service at The Basque Hotel Restaurant, which occupied the first floor.

The dining experience was quintessentially Basque, with traditional family-style dinners that drew both local Basque families and tourists alike. There would be only one service nightly, starting promptly at 6:30pm, with just a few large picnic tables to seat whomever was dining that evening.

In one article remembering the establishment, Matthew Iribarne recalled that depending on the day of the week, the menu would differ between proteins like trout with lemon sauce, leg of duck, oxtail stew or chicken Basque, a traditional braised chicken dish with peppers and tomatoes (it was expected that you called ahead of time to state your preference for white or dark meat so they could prepare accordingly).

Soup was always served first in large tureens, and salad was last (in the traditional Basque style), and old patrons often reminisce over the never-ending mounds of French fries on old blog forums. Nondescript red wine was poured generously and often into the same tumbler reused for water and coffee throughout the meal, and dishes were passed communally between strangers around the table.

In the back corner of the restaurant stood a small Formica bar, and behind it, a grand, double-door, forest green 1950s refrigerator from which a bartender would be mixing up Kalimoxtos and traditional Picón Punch. On Sunday nights, the tenants who lived above would all come downstairs to enjoy a weekly feast, making the space feel more like a family dining room than a traditional restaurant.

The meals were all-inclusive, with a flat rate of around five to eight dollars for your fill of food and wine. Their unreliable system of having customers pay as they left, coupled with the unlimited wine, likely contributed to the restaurant’s losses over the years and eventually led to its closure in December 1996. Although The Basque Hotel above still operates as a boarding house for long-term renters to this day, it is no longer run by Idiart, nor is home to any Basque residents.

And as many of you likely know, the first floor of 15 Romolo Place has long been home to the cocktail bar 15 Romolo, which has made a point of incorporating elements of the building’s Basque history into its atmosphere and offerings. Opened in 1998 by Jon Gasparini and Greg Lindgren, 15 Romolo quickly became one of The City’s most cherished bars. Known for their excellent cocktails, beloved Sunday brunch, and mahogany-hued sultry ambiance, this hidden-away bar has established itself as a longtime North Beach favorite (if you read my byline, you may see why I’m partial). 

After having to close their doors in summer of 2024, Gasparini couldn’t bring himself to walk away from the bar he opened at 28 and where he started his career. For the past eight months, Gasparini and his wife, Kelly Anne, have been personally remodeling the space, getting ready to launch a revamped version of 15 Romolo this October. As for what’s to come, you can read about what to expect in the upcoming remodeled 15 Romolo in last week’s tablehopper preview here.

Cheers to 20 years! Let’s celebrate! 🥂 Become an annual supporting subscriber and I’d love to see you at PrimeBird on the 15th! 🍸

what’s cookin’

Hellllllooooooooo! It’s me, I’m back in SF after running away to my family’s cabin in Tahoma for a quick summer break. I planned to send you a dispatch while I was there, but my parents decided to join me and my sister at the lake, so enjoying the precious time with my sweet family took precedence over laptop time. Fortuna was thrilled to have four people fawning over her and her daily nature walks (although Chip—her chipmunk boyfriend last month—didn’t come by to tease her; I think he realized they weren’t a good match).

Although so much for working on my tan and swimming in the lake every day—the first week was in the 50s and raining. (Not yet, fall! No soup for you!) I can’t believe I made a fire for two nights. Anyway, I needed to power-wash and stain the wraparound deck, so at least the non-beach weather was a good motivator for doing cabin chores. Sis and I also spent a day painting all the deck railing while playing the 70s music we grew up listening to at the cabin on our eight-track machine. Physical labor and the Saturday Night Fever soundtrack: recommended.

Fortunately, warmer temps returned for a few days, so we were back to swimming in the lake and grilling, and a sunset dinner on the deck at Christy Hill in Tahoe City to celebrate my sister’s birthday. I loved JB’s wine list (hello, Corsican rosé!), the gregarious staff, and chef Luis Vallin’s menu was full of creative touches and ingredients, like lemon verbena in a spin on a caprese salad with stracciatella, and a memorable venison tartare. While the furnishings are dated, the view (and warm hospitality) are timeless. Sadly, we had to cancel our family dinner at Savoie, but I plan to make it there later this fall for tartiflette season!

Just before leaving SF a few weeks ago, I pressed pause on the newsletter so I could throw a last-minute and intimate cocktail party (Vent’Anni) to celebrate tablehopper’s 20th anniversary at the remodeled 15 Romolo—Jon and Kelly Anne Gasparini oh-so-kindly offered to host this very early preview before they reopen the beloved bar next month. What a dream location for my party, our beloved 15 Romolo, right in the heart of North Beach!

The only difficult part was the extremely limited capacity I had to adhere to for the bar’s first preview, so please don’t be miffed if you didn’t see an invite—it had to be super-tiny, and the whole thing was arranged quickly and kind of felt like a shotgun wedding. There will be more anniversary parties!

For now, read all about the upcoming reopening of 15 Romolo below, and there’s a fun Vent’Anni party recap. (If you can read this on a laptop or monitor, it will be much more enjoyable.) This week’s column got way too big, so you can read all about the history of the storied location as The Basque Hotel in the next issue in the archivist (thanks to summer intern Francesca Gasparini).

Tremendous thanks to our longtime friends at Charbay for generously being our premier event sponsor for this first shindig in a series of events to celebrate tablehopper’s 20th anniversary. I hope to raise a glass with you at my next gathering, there are so many of you to thank and reminisce with. But only annual supporting subscribers will be able to get tickets to these anniversary soirées. I’m also launching some fun anniversary content and retrospectives, here we gooooo!

Speaking of: in October, I’m cohosting a supped-up tablehopper version of a PrimeBird dinner with Kim Alter and Ron Boyd of Nightbird (currently celebrating 10 years)! They’re going to be pulling out all the stops on this modern steakhouse dinner I fell in love with when they first ran it a couple years ago in their private dining space. Bring on the Flannery Beef prime rib au jus with smoked bone marrow wagyu Hollandaise and herbed horseradish, truffle, and cheddar Yorkshire pudding! It’s sooooo good. And raise your glass, because Champagne Telmont 🥂 is joining me once again for this anniversary event. Ticket info, pricing, and reservations will be released super soon, and seating is very limited. Watch for my email! This event is for annual supporting subscribers only (and patrons and super patrons will have access to a VIP reception).

If you (or a brand or company or product you work with) would like to be involved as an event partner or sponsor/donor/supporter/underwriter, please get in touch! There are a bunch of opportunities and ways we can work together. Are you in the media? I have story ideas and some cool content coming. Let’s talk! Thank you for supporting tablehopper’s 20th anniversary and event series!

It was a timely surprise to be included in this feature in SincerelySusye: Top Independent San Francisco Bloggers to Follow in 2027, which was written to include “independent bloggers whose work met the full editorial criteria: domain ownership, original long-form publishing, established archives, active publishing, and a meaningful San Francisco or Bay Area connection.” Yeah, that’s me. (Except for the blogger part, but still, right on and thanks.)

I also appreciate the shoutout in 48 Hills from my homie in bites and beats, Tamara Palmer, who wrote a preview of fall projects in last week’s Good Taste column.

There’s a bunch of news to catch you up on, which I’ll be able to dig deeper into after I get out from under this pile of emails and press releases, but for now, I’m sharing a few timely headlines and quick bites below.

I’m sad to report this is the last month we have summer intern Francesca Gasparini contributing to tablehopper since she has headed back to school at UCSB! It was such a pleasure to have her snappy writing, lively voice, enthusiasm, much-needed admin help, and dedicated research over the past few months—and I really appreciated her event support for Vent’Anni (her floral displays were beautiful).

This will likely embarrass her, but if you want to join me in saying thanks for her work and tip her some “walking around money” (which is what my grandmother used to call it) as she goes back to school, her Venmo is @francescagasparini. Grazie!

So, this week is going to be an absolute banger. I literally can’t wait to return to Despacio at Portola Music Festival this weekend (September 26th–27th), and I’m praying to get me and my bestie into the Despacio Extravaganza pre-party on Friday. (Let me know if you hear of any tickets, thank youuuu.)

I won’t have any Portola schedule conflicts since I will be in that tent the entire weekend. You can read my recap from last year’s Portola of this life-changing, soul-affirming, and incomparable musical and dance floor experience (which I ended up chasing to iii Points in Miami a month later for a second tour of disco duty). I swore to myself I would never miss another Despacio, no matter when and where it was happening, and lucky me/us, it’s gonna be in our backyard once again. It’s such a gift.

My dear disco friends, I better see you on the dance floor. I mean it. You’ve heard me talk about this so much. I know it’s Folsom weekend, but you can do both! You can buy a single-day ticket, and all you need is GA to get into Despacio. You’ll be outta there by 11pm (set times here), so I don’t want to hear about how you can’t stay out late. DO IT. Read my friend Vlad’s post on Magical Dancefloors for even more convincing and deep Despacio storytelling.

New this year: The Four Horsemen (James Murphy of LCD Soundsystem’s wine bar and restaurant in Brooklyn) is serving cocktails inside Despacio. (Dreams almost answered?? All I wanted was a glass of Champagne while I was in there!)

And if you can’t make it to the festival, this week is Portola Week, with acts performing all over town before and after the festival. Soulwax will be putting on one of their SICK shows at The Regency Ballroom this Thursday (low ticket alert!) and the next night, 2manydjs (the Dewaele brothers) will be playing a DJ set at 1015 on Friday night (can’t stop, won’t stop), as well as FCUKERS at Public Works, and Neil Frances at 888 Garage...and more! Buckle up!

Since I’m lighting a disco candle and praying to get into the Despacio Extravaganza on Friday night, I need to sell my two floor/GA tickets to the Kruder & Dorfmeister: K&D Kicks 30 Anniversary Tour this Friday September 25th at the Fox Theater in Oakland (8pm). I paid $133.50, and will let ’em go for $100! I hope someone wants to buy them. They put on such a great show—last year’s K&D Sessions tour was epic. I wish I could clone myself. Let me know! MWAH. 💋

Have a great week! XO!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

A Quick News Roundup

Before we dive into all of this week’s 15 Romolo coverage, here are some of the latest news headlines:

This Saturday September 19th is the last service for the Southern-inspired Prelude at The Jay, Autograph Collection hotel in San Francisco. The AvroKO-designed space was such a stunna, and executive chef Celtin Hendrickson-Jones made some delicious dishes (gonna miss those wings and catfish dumplings), and same goes for the bar team—that P.F.C Martini! Hendrickson-Jones will stay with Omakase Restaurant Group, working alongside ORG Culinary Director Dustin Falcon at Niku Steakhouse.

Moving in will be Shinka, featuring modern Japanese cuisine with French technique and NorCal ingredients, led by executive chef Fumio Yonezawa (Jean-Georges, Jean-Georges Tokyo, NO CODE in Tokyo and Taipei), who’s new to SF. Look for an October opening—Shinka will debut with a tasting menu and a selection of dishes available at the bar, with a full à la carte menu to follow. Franco Bilbaeno will still lead the bar team, cheers to that.

No more steamer baskets of har gow in the atrium at Rincon Center: Yank Sing is closing their longtime (and largest) Spear Street location after 27 years on Sunday September 20th (the lease is up); thankfully, their 49 Stevenson Street location will remain open. [Via SF Chronicle]

After closing Anomaly so he could take a mental and physical health break, the ever-driven, chef-owner Mike Lanham is back with the next iteration of his modern culinary vision: Athanor. The alchemy continues. (Read more in this SF Eater feature.] 2600 Sutter St. at Baker.

Another fliperoo: the former French Bistro La Chaumière on Divisadero (which had a short-lived transformation into Divis Taqueria) is now Anima Bistro, featuring legit Italian dishes, like Venetian fritto misto with shrimp and local calamari with lemon aioli; housemade lasagna of beef ragù and autumn truffle (for just $22!); pappardelle with slow-cooked Italian ragù and Fontina fondue ($24); and there are even a few pizzas. Lunch and dinner are offered.

I inquired about who the chef is, and was surprised to learn it’s Valentino Luchin, who was the executive chef of Rose Pistola back in 2007, and he went on to open and own the acclaimed Ottavio in Walnut Creek, which sadly closed due to financial and legal issues in 2016. Things began to really spiral for him, and Luchin was in the news in 2018, and then again in 2025, for allegedly robbing a number of local banks, acts of pure desperation. The New York Times ran this thoughtfully written and heart-wrenching story about his travails (a much-needed counterpoint to all the sensational headlines that churned through the news).

I asked owner Kamel Bouzidi how Luchin is doing, and he said, “He’s doing very good now, I hope people understand everybody has [the] right for the second chance.” (Or, in this case, a third.) Here’s wishing some stability for both Luchin and Anima Bistro—the restaurant business is truly brutal. Anima is open for lunch and dinner, and has some sidewalk seating as well. Open Mon, Wed, and Thu 11:30am–3pm and 5pm–9pm; Fri until 9:30pm; Sat 11:30am–9:30pm; Sun 11:30am–9pm; closed Tue. 607 Divisadero St. at Grove.

A tablehopper reader let me know that the Tunisian Gola on Valencia has sadly closed (you can read my preview from 2023 here). But, some good news: I hear owner Rafik Bouzidi (who is related to Kamel Bouzidi at Anima Bistro)...

Awwww, the cute and little old-school Corsagna Deli in Cow Hollow is closing after 47 years, on Friday October 2nd. 1668 Union St. at Gough.

After working together for 20 years, chef pâtissier Juan Contreras is departing his Willy Wonka workshop at Dominique Crenn’s Atelier Crenn, where he has delighted us with his innovative and whimsical creations for the past 15 years. According to Dom’s thoughtful farewell post on Instagram, he’s beginning a new chapter—I reached out for more, will let you know if I hear back.

After opening in 2021, Lower Haight’s Otra is sadly closing in December (no more tacos and totopos), but the talented Spencer Horovitz will be opening his brick-and-mortar location for his California-Jewish pop-up, Hadeem, in there in early 2027. I’ll share more deets on that soon.

Congrats to the ever-resilient Azikiwee Anderson, who just opened Rize Up Cafe, a public-facing space in the front of Rize Up Bakery in SoMa, where you can enjoy grilled cheese and toasts and quiche, and will be able to pick up a loaf of his many inspired breads (from masala to semolina hoagie rolls). SFGATE wrote up an early visit, with some details about the menu. Open Wed–Sun 8am–3pm. 1160 Howard St. at Rausch (near 8th St.).

I need to head over stat to Corey’s Pizza for a Staten Island–style thin slice—the shop opened last week in the former Turner’s Kitchen with a limited menu for now (and they just launched online ordering and delivery). Updates at @coreyspizzasf. Open daily 4pm–10pm. 3505 17th St. at Guerrero.

Just a block away from Golden Gate Park, a tablehopper subscriber shared a hot scoop that Mama’s Boy Pizza is opening its first-ever San Francisco location. This Oakland-based, New York-style pizza joint will be taking over the former home of Inner Sunset’s Reliable Rexall Sunset Pharmacy on Irving Street, which had previously resided there since 1932. Mama’s Boy Pizza has been building its reputation since opening in March 2023 for having one of the best NY-style slices in the Bay Area. It was ranked ninth in the nation by one Italian pizza ranking site—50 Top Pizza—which specifically complimented its Margherita grandma for its crispy undercarriage, fluffy crust, flavorful sauce, and the perfect ratio of cheese, basil, and Parmesan.

Owners Ezra Berman and Miles Palliser opened Mama’s Boy Pizza to offer a New York–style slice shop in the Bay Area, and as an additional business to complement their nearby sports bar the two previously started together, Athletic Club Oakland. Inspired by both of their New York mothers, the two friends set out on a mission to try as many slices as they could to understand and formulate the ideal recipe to bring back to the Bay. According to Nosh, Berman and Palliser took a four-day trip to New York for an intense pizza-tasting tour led by their friend Angelo Womak, where they tried 44 different pies. For the past three years, they’ve been bringing the taste of New York to Uptown Oakland, and, evidently, SF is next. [We reached out to them for confirmation, and Mission Local has since confirmed the project.] Stay tuned for more details soon. 801 Irving St. at 9th Ave. ~Francesca Gasparini

I spotted this early peek inside Bruno’s, which has been closed for the past six years, and I can barely reconcile the current club with my memories of dining at the bar on chef James Ormsby’s supper club menu in the 90s, or grooving to acid jazz in the stylish Cork Club. Anyway, I’m old. Mission Local reports the club is currently soft opening with some weekend parties until a grand opening in October. 2389 Mission St. at 20th St.

the socialite

Vent’Anni at 15 Romolo: The First in a Series of Celebrations for tablehopper’s 20th Anniversary

When Jon and Kelly Anne Gasparini invited me to host a preview party at the soon-to-reopen and renovated 15 Romolo, I couldn’t believe how perfectly their generous offer aligned with where I’d want to be able to celebrate tablehopper’s 20th anniversary. A dream! I know I’m not alone in having many years of fond memories (honestly, mostly hazy ones) from late nights at that stealth bar in North Beach.

It felt really good to be back, and the bar is looking so fine. It’s like finding the perfect shade of red lipstick or having a Martini made the way you like it—classic, chic, classy (but unpretentious). Just right. It’s exactly the kind of bar I want to hang out at for this stage of my cocktail-drinking life.

I know I’ll be seeing many of our guests back at the bar when it reopens next month. It was a puuuush for the Gasparinis to get the bar ready for this early preview party (there are design elements they’re still finishing up), and they put so much thought and heart into so many event details, but they pulled it all off beautifully, and we really loved the sneak peek!

A huge shoutout to all the incredible folks who worked the party—everyone was so fun, personable, and professional. It felt like a natural extension of a house party, but we were in a bar—the best kind of hospitality! For the first preview night, it was so impressive. Thank you! (And this is why Rye on the Road is amazing for cocktail catering, such pros.)

Mille grazie to summer intern Francesca Gasparini for all her event support (and the stunning flower arrangements!), I so appreciated her dedicated help.

It was an honor to be able to kick off the next era for the bar, and a new decade for tablehopper with many of the people who got me to this moment. Honestly, I need a stadium to host and thank all of you friends and longtime supporters and collaborators, but hosting a series of smaller and highly personal events feels right.

Thanks to all of you who followed the dress code and really turned it out! I love being in a room of friends looking so snazzy and sharp. We all need to dress up more. You’re beautiful. (And so sexy in the new amber glow of 15 Romolo!)

Tremendous thanks to emcee and dear friend Liam Mayclem for his rousing and heartfelt toast, and to the glam Juanita MORE! for her electric rendition of I’m Always Drunk in San Francisco—what a dame, what a moment! 

It felt like an only-in-San Francisco kind of party, the way tablehopper is an only-in-SF kind of column. Looking around the room, it was a vibrant gathering of our city’s creatives and culture-makers and bohemians, our incomparable food and beverage industry, North Beach friends, tablehopper collaborators...it was a celebration of SF queerness, our progressive values, our flair, and big, caring hearts. Such quality people. I cherish our community so damn much.

It felt wonderful to be able to work with people and brands I have known and loved for years. None of it would have been possible without the magnanimous support from our premier event sponsor, Jenni and Marko Karakasevic of Charbay Distillery, whom I first met for a tasting and tour on Spring Mountain in 2008! And when I held parties for my book launch in 2010, Charbay was there with a Plum Twisted cocktail for my poolside happy hour at Bardessono. We have some long history and many shared memories from SF’s vibrant craft cocktail scene 20 years ago. Just to add to the hopper connection: did you know Marko (who is a 13th-generation master distiller) pioneered the hopped-whiskey category in the U.S. when he cracked the code of distilling from bottle-ready beer in an alembic pot still?

Jenni was pouring some very special and rare cheekies for our guests, like a preview of Charbay’s upcoming petrichor gin (stand by for a 2027 launch of that one, inspired by the scent of Spring Mountain after it rains), Charbay 1983 Brandy (so damn gorgeous, a sipper from the heavens), and Charbay 2005 Double Aged Rum.

The 15 Romolo team pulled from the extensive Charbay portfolio for our party cocktail menu, which included a Charbay Vodka Martini (which will be on the 15 Romolo menu when it reopens!) and the Spaghetti Western (with Tapatío blanco tequila 110 proof, grapefruit, Campari, rosemary).

I started my night with the Charbay Espresso Martini, and I know I wasn’t the only one who appreciated a little pick-me-up from this guaranteed party starter. (Did you know you can just pour it from the bottle and shake and strain it at home?)

And I wanted to feature an SF original, the Boothby, which the 15 Romolo team made with Charbay Doubled & Twisted whiskey (a blend of five custom-brewed, individually distilled and aged Charbay whiskeys), Cocchi Torino sweet vermouth, and a float of Champagne Telmont. (I love having this cocktail at my parties.)

Guests also got to preview 15 Romolo’s Fords Gin Martini, and the Caprese Highball I mention in my Romolo recap piece below. (See you again real soon.)

I was so thrilled to have a Champagne tower be the first thing our guests saw on arrival—thanks to former Romolo bar manager Ian Adams for making that happen. (It felt so good to have him there—it wasn’t the first time he poured at a tablehopper event at 15 Romolo!) Merci beaucoup to Champagne Telmont for supplying oh-so-many coupes of their refreshing and elegant Réserve Brut (did you know they are the first Champagne house to obtain the certification Regenerative Organic Certified® for their vineyards?).

More bubbles! It was a treat to be able to spoil our guests with Domaine Carneros Cuvée de la Pompadour Brut Rosé, a forever-favorite sparkling rosé of mine, and I was so grateful for the gift of a big bottle o’ bubs for everyone to sign, what a thoughtful memento (thank you, CEO Remi Cohen and publicist extraordinaire Kimberly Charles of Charles Communications). See, this is what women do for each other. Pure class. I appreciate the excellence and female-centric legacy of this local winery (and their PR!). Cheers, ladies!

At the end of the party, our late-night posse piled into a booth and cracked a bottle of the Cuvée de la Pompadour Brut Rosé, the best after-midnight bubs. So refreshing. Think pink! We played songs on Romolo’s new jukebox, and had a moment listening to Dolly, and raised our coupes to that singular woman.

Another longtime friend who came through is the one-and-only Duggan McDonnell, who helped stock our party with the zero-proof Pentire Paloma. So good. (Thanks, Shotzi.) 

Chef Giovanni Gasparini and his kitchen team cranked out an abbondanza of delicious bites for our guests, from ricotta-stuffed fried olives with lemon aioli, to summer caprese salad. The star of the evening was a preview of the chophouse steak sandwich (you can read all about it in my Romolo renovation recap—it was such a hit). 

Grazie mille (again) to Kimberly Charles for the connection to Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co., who graciously donated their creamy Toma for Giovanni’s pancetta arancini, and a duo of crostini featured Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co. pimento cheese spread topped with cornichons, and their Original Blue Date Spread, which Giovanni flourished with sweet pickled red onions. (Those are instant party bites for your next gathering!) And the bar team stuffed olives with the Point Reyes Original Blue for the Martinis, so damn delicious.

For dessert, I wanted everyone to enjoy a slice of a North Beach classic: the Sacripantina cake from Stella Pastry & Cafe, since 1942! (It also served as a taste of one of the items that will featured in my upcoming Hopper 100—more on that very soon!)

Charbay came through yet again for the gift bag, with minis of their Charbay Espresso Martini (I thought they would be a swell hair-of-the-dog present to get guests back in the game the next day). Cans are coming soon! 

Jon and Kelly Anne created the most charming memento: a Blue Note–inspired album sleeve that contained the original 45s that came in the jukebox they restored, and the track listing cleverly highlighted our sponsors. So thoughtful, so cool (just like them!). There were also jukebox tokens in the gift bag for guests to use when they return after the bar opens!

And where would I be without my gay glam squad? Mil gracias, my beloved Mr. Anthony, for taking such exquisite care of me all day, and always giving me the best goddamned event hair (the gardenias were intoxicating—everyone loved their romantic scent when I’d hug them). Book him for your next event updo or holiday party tresses or fab color and cut at Ginger Rubio.

Thank youuuuu to the talented Drex Campos (Form and Finish Beauty) for my 70s-meets-Xanadu makeup that managed to stay put on a hot day and with all my running around (a miracle!). Gang, he can do gorgeous, but if you need someone for scary Halloween makeup, Drex is your boo!

I am the luckiest lady evah to bask in the impeccable styling of my dear Scott Goble, who always knows exactly what I need (those gold shoes! That vintage Paco Rabanne chain necklace!), and whose sign-off before I walk out the door is like a blessing from the style gods. How can one person have so much taste?

I always want a friendly face and sparkly personality to run my door, and Marya Kahan of Moxie Proxy Events really understood thew assignment, showing up in full sequins, with tablehopper blue boots! She was a tremendous event support (some people just naturally know what you need while hosting an event, and she is one of them), and she is also a high-energy auctioneer, fundraiser, MC, and day-of event coordinator. Book her for your holiday events!

So, can you believe all these fabulous images? It makes a huge difference when you’re already friends with your event photographer, and even better when they move in the same circles you do, and really love cocktails, and know the shots you need to get. I have admired the talented Ashley Rose Conway’s stunning cocktail content for @craftandcocktails for years, and when our original photographer had to unfortunately drop out at the last minute, I was so stoked to find out Ashley has quietly started shooting events! Um, hello! It was meant to be. Her vivacious personality and bubbly energy and creativity shine in all these images, and she hustled allllll night. Thank you, goddess!

As a music obsessive, the soundtrack to any of my parties is one of the most important components. While I love Romolo’s new jukebox, I wanted the music for the party to be continuous and build a certain vibe. I thought I was just going to put together a playlist, and then my dear friend, Tamara Palmer (T$!)—a longtime music journalist, professional DJ, author, zine maker, Music Book Club founder, and fellow food writing freelancer and San Mateo homie—offered the sweetest gift: to do a party mix for tablehopper’s 20th. Awwww!

There’s nothing like a mix from someone who knows you, and she made me two—you can listen to both (linked below) and see the tracklists, too, ’cause she’s good like that. (Thanks, teemoney, for allowing me to be a control freak and request some of my personal faves, like Steppin’ Out, and some Italian tracks.) Here’s what she had to say:

“It was a pleasure to work with my food writing mentor Marcia Gagliardi to program two exclusive and Despacio-inspired fantasy disco DJ mixes for tablehopper’s 20th anniversary at 15 Romolo in North Beach. I am proud that she said that I gave her goosebumps upon the first listen, and that we are now sharing this celebratory soundtrack with her dear readers. Her taste is exquisite, and I selected some gems as well.

“I have over 30 years experience as a DJ who enjoys working with restaurant and food events. I’m available to spin, create custom mixes or original music for restaurant events as a soloist or with my new duo, Wealth + Hellness!” Yeah, hit her up!

tablehopper 20

Mix 1: 2.5 hours
Fantastic Plastic Machine — Steppin’ Out
Eartha Kitt — C’est Si Bon
Thundercat — Satellite Space Age
Nightmares on Wax — Calling
ESTA. — Jammin
The Stranglers — Peaches
Musical Youth — Pass the Dutchie
Eddie Hazel — California Dreaming
Ready for the World — Don’t Disturb This Groove
Señor Coconut — White Horse
Romeo Void — Never Say Never
Sister Nancy — Bam Bam
Grace Jones — La Vie en Rose
Tears for Fears — Everybody Wants to Run the World (Running Version)
The Beat — Mirror in the Bathroom
Sade — Feel No Pain (Cutso Slap)
Seals and Crofts — Summer Breeze
Kool & the Gang — Summer Madness
Al B. Sure — Nuit et Jour
David Bowie — Fame (Daniel Crawford Remix)
Marvin Gaye — A Funky Space Reincarnation
O’Jays — For the Love of Money
Sly & The Family Stone — Luv ‘N Haight
Steve Miller Band — Fly Like an Eagle (Phoreyez Remix)
Men Without Hats — Safety Dance (Extended Version)
New Edition — A Little Bit of Love (Instrumental)
Chaka Khan — Ain’t Nobody (Hot Classics Remix)
George McCrae — You Can Have It All
Hot Chocolate — Every 1’s a Winner
The Dominatrix — The Dominatrix Sleeps Tonight
MFSB — The Message
Sheila E — A Love Bizarre
Diana Ross — Love Hangover
Hall & Oates — Go 4 That (LNTG Mix)
Pointer Sisters — Automatic

Mix 2: 75 min.
Bohannon — Let’s Start the Dance
Bryan Ferry — Don’t Stop the Dance
Les Rita Mitsouko — Marcia Baïla
The Clash — This Is Radio Clash (Different Lyrics)
Human League — Don’t You Want Me (Purple Disco Machine Remix)
Patrick Cowley featuring Sylvester — Do Ya Wanna Funk?
ESG — Dance (Cutso’s Shakedown)
Goya — House at the Sea (Psychemagik Edit)
La Bellini — Satan in Love
Mina — Capisco
Pino D’Angiò — Okay Okay
Milton Wright — Friends and Buddies
Isley Brothers — It’s a Disco Night (Rock Don’t Stop)
Tame Impala — Let It Happen (Soulwax Remix)

So, on that note 🎵, thanks to everyone who helped make this such a sweet and memorable gathering, and here’s to seeing you at 15 Romolo in October, and more upcoming tablehopper anniversary events! Cin cin! 🥂

the lush

The Renovated 15 Romolo Is About to Reopen, and at 28 Years Old, the Clandestine Bar Has a New Air of Timeless Elegance and Refined Taste 

When Greg Lindgren and Jon Gasparini opened 15 Romolo on a quiet alley in North Beach in June 1998, they were on the brink of SF’s latest craft cocktail movement (the groundbreaking Absinthe Brasserie & Bar opened that same year, creating seasonal and ingredient-driven riffs on classic cocktails). The place had such a cool vibe, with great music and a fun crowd who liked to drink. 15 Romolo was also ahead of the modern speakeasy revival that became a de facto style during the aughts with its dark lighting, wood plank floors, and hidden-away address (Bourbon & Branch wouldn’t be around for another seven years, opening in 2005).

Lindgren and Gasparini went on to open Rosewood Bar in Chinatown in 2001, and industry watering hole Rye in 2006 (which just celebrated its 20th anniversary as well, cheers!). They also founded Rye on the Road mobile beverage catering in 2009.

15 Romolo has always been the perfect hideout in North Beach, tucked away from the busy bar scene of Grant and Columbus on the steep Romolo Place alley, perched above the gaudy lights of Broadway and the Hungry I below—you’d see the glow of the red neon The Basque Hotel sign, and that’s about it. Inside, it was always dimly lit, and felt like a secret—it was custom made for a great date spot, and known for an excellent Pimm’s Cup, as well as Picón Punch (paying tribute to its Basque roots), and a late-night bite (those fries!). There was always something for anyone with taste there, and the menu went far beyond your standard bar meat and cheese plate, eventually focusing on tapas, and they even hosted a renowned Sunday boozy brunch.

There were a number of talented bartenders and managers and chefs over the years, creating different eras and styles of the bar, from the relaunch in 2008 with Aaron Gregory Smith and Scott Baird (with carnival food and their clever craft cocktails), along with the talented Brandon Josie, and then there was the sick sherry selection from Ian Adams. It had everything it needed to be an industry hangout for years. And the fricking drinks! They were always ahead of the times. I was looking at some old menus, and back in 2014, I had the Darjeeling Ltd., with gin, turmeric, Earl Grey, lime, gum syrup, and a sprinkling of black pepper (just $10, awwww).

After barely making it through the pandemic (remember their Basque picnic boxes?), Gasparini and Lindgren closed the bar for a remodel in 2024. It was also the time for new lease negotiations and ownership changes—at one point, the bar was on the brink of being leased to someone else, but Gasparini brought on his wife, Kelly Anne, as an owner and they signed the new lease together (Lindgren is still involved and remains a partner).

The couple decided to really lean into the upgrades the bar needed to shepherd it into its future decades—they’re redesigning it with the hope and vision that it outlasts them and lives on to be a North Beach standard. The space dates back to 1912, and was formerly a Basque boarding house and restaurant, which you can read about in the archivist next week. Jon shares that while he has been working in the space almost daily for the past seven months, numerous people have come by and rattled the gate, looking to see if The Basque Hotel and Restaurant still existed from their memories from 40-plus years ago. He said it feels like some good juju.

In an interesting crossover, Kelly Anne has her home in Boise, where there’s a strong Basque community (thanks to all the land for farming), and even hosts the largest Basque festival in the U.S., Jaialdi, with attendees coming from all over the world on the last week of July every five years. The community there even knows about 15 Romolo and The Basque Hotel.

After 114 years, the bar was in need of some foundational updates, from the electrical to plumbing. Since labor is so expensive, the Gasparinis have been doing the majority of the work themselves (including many family members, and their friend, Dwayne Hill, a woodworker who comes down from Boise to help), from installing an air conditioner (yay), to building a curving soffit above the bar with recessed amber lighting, to adding mahogany panels above the previous mahogany wainscoting, all the way to the custom ceiling (which they painted themselves).

This way, they were able to dedicate more money into materials and supplies, like the green Heath tiles their son Giovanni installed behind the bar, and recovering the 1950’s Thonet barstools (the new seating by the front window has porcelain bases that were originally from a soda fountain—you may remember them from Rosewood).

The former banquettes are now four spacious booths with black channel tufting, plus there are a couple big booths along the opposing wall that allow for tables to be added or moved out for flexible seating options (be sure to note the stacked and exposed plywood square edges on the tables that Jon made, which bring a mid-century touch).

Jon has been a fan of modernism all his life, so he was excited to finally find a home for his Art Deco milk glass sconces that he salvaged in his early 20s and has been storing for the past 35 years—you’ll see them on the center wood pillar. There’s a soft glow from the new globe fixtures and wall lights, and when you first walk in, there’s a chic Deco overhead light fixture with brass and folds of linen. While some things may feel the same (the layout, the bar, the sexy hideaway sensibility), the room feels more refined, polished, and elegant. Ms. Romolo has grown up a bit, and she knows some things.

The former CD jukebox, which was a favorite of many, proved challenging to find parts for, so it has been swapped out for a 1951 Seeberg Select-O-Matic jukebox that has its own newly created niche in the back of the bar. It needed a major restoration, but since the parts are all mechanical, it could be fixed—it took four months to completely rebuild it. It now houses a new collection of 100 45s, and since the Seeburg plays both sides of a record, there are 200 songs that Kelly Anne has searched for and curated, ranging from Motown to soul, David Bowie to Blondie, Prince to Patsy Cline. 

By the front of the bar, a former phone booth that was converted into a photo booth takes some cool black-and-white picture strips. (Take some pics with your date: I can see it becoming a kissing booth.)

The kitchen has been redone and looks lighter and airier—it’s freshly tiled and now has a wood pass, while the grotty hallway to the bathrooms now transports you to what feels like a 1930s supper club, with cork flooring in a black-and-red diamond pattern and more mahogany paneling, with retro WC lights they actually made.

Kelly Anne designed the women’s bathroom with a dark boudoir sensibility, featuring floral wallpaper, illustrations and paintings of nudes, a dusty pink vintage sink, and a black toilette. And then there are all the updates you don’t see, like the stripped and re-gasketed refrigerator doors, the soundsystem, the wiring, the list goes on. The team has been working so hard for months—there is so much craft and consideration behind every detail, and feels so personal. The bar is a beaut, a true labor of love.

As for the cocktail program, Jon is working on a super-simple menu of beautifully crafted drinks—he says if people want to know more, they can ask, or they can order off-menu and go deep, but he doesn’t want a long drink list with complicated ingredients and techniques (even though the drinks will be technique-driven). There will be around 11 cocktails (spanning Martinis, highballs, classics, house drinks, and a coffee drink), with clear and pronounced flavors yet elegant simplicity. They are also striving to make them affordable, but if you want something special to splash out on, you can find that, too.

Guests of our preview party for tablehopper’s 20th anniversary got a sneak peek of their Fords gin and Charbay vodka Martinis shaken with ice shards, with touches like a chilled glass and a sidecar—it should remind you of the House of Prime Rib Martini service. (As for all those olives, we were just having fun.)

Guests went pazzo for the Caprese Highball, which Jon said is inspired by nostalgia for his Italian grandpa’s garden. It was like a sparkling, savory kiss of late summer, with olive oil–washed Fords gin, heirloom tomato water, basil, lemon, and then force carbonated (see, there’s a lot of hidden technique).

Another star item my guests got a preview of was the upcoming chophouse steak sandwich, which their son, chef Giovanni Gasparini, has been workshopping with the family for months. He dry-brines New York steaks from Golden Gate Meat Company for a day, and cooks the pepper-crusted steak to medium, and then thinly slices it. If the sandwich makes you think of HOPR leftovers, it’s because there’s an herby creamed spinach sauce in there, whipped with ricotta, Parmesan, garlic, and white wine. There’s also some acidity from sweet pickled red onion and the peppery kick of arugula, all nestled in a ciabatta roll from Starter Bakery. Enjoy that bad boy with a Martini and you’re set. Just wait until you see the sandwich served on vintage-style plates that say 15 Romolo along the rim in green. It all feels so classic and timeless.

Since Giovanni worked in a Basque restaurant (Ansots) in Boise—it’s from the Ansotegui Inchausti family, which has been a part of the Idaho Basque scene for over a century—he’s developing some leek and bacalao croquettes, and there will be a presa pork sandwich, plus some snacky bites, like gildas. He’s making a Basque spin on a filet-o-fish by using beer-battered bacalao, but will be keeping it old-school with American cheese and tartar sauce. 

Meatballs are a 15 Romolo menu standard, and since the Gasparini and Lindgren families have a lot of history, Giovanni shares the latest version is inspired by the A16 recipe for their slow-braised meatballs, but will have a Basque spin by being made with lamb (with some pork fat).

I’m looking forward to trying his caramelized eggplant with roasted pine nuts, walnuts, and sun-dried tomatoes over arugula with a balsamic glaze, inspired by a dish he had in Barcelona. There will be other seasonal vegetable dishes—like stuffed zucchini blossoms in the summer—and a couple salads, too. Since Romolo is such a great date spot, you’ll find small bites to share, so couples can enjoy more than a drink or two.

Something that is really important to the Gasparinis is hospitality—Kelly Anne says they want to bury their guests in hospitality! We definitely got a taste of that at my party—everything was made and served with such care and warmth, with some snazzy flourishes and next-level presentations that made you feel like you were in a venue that has been around for decades, even if your bartender was young enough to be your kid. Good North Beach bars are like that: you’ll see different generations of customers in a bar, and it helps give them character. 

In one of our many conversations, Jon notes that North Beach is analog, and the opposite of tech and AI. He knows the neighborhood well—not only has he operated the bar there for almost 30 years, but he lived in North Beach for a long time, and knows the history, people, and its different eras. He can’t even count how many people swing by to see how it’s coming along. And now, with his wife Kelly Anne, they’re launching a new era for this treasure of a bar, built upon its solid roots, but with some strong new branches to climb and fruits to eat (and frosty Martinis to drink). 🍸

Stand by for an early October opening. I’ll definitely keep you posted on pre-opening details. 15 Romolo Pl. at Broadway.

the starlet

what’s cookin’

Howdy, hopper friends! Happy Friday. I hope the misty Fogust wind hasn’t blown you away—I just keep reminding myself that September and Rocktober are coming soon with our best weather (but I’m sad peaches are leaving us early this year, wah). 

I have also been hanging on for the return of the Despacio sound system at Portola Music Festival the last weekend of September (kicking off with Despacio Extravaganza, a special Friday night party to celebrate Portola’s fifth anniversary!). Friends who love music: I really hope to see you on the dance floor—I will be in that tent from the very first song they play to the very last. Freaks only! You can read my writeup about last year’s Despacio at Portola, which was so life changing that I chased it to Miami a month later. (Here’s the proof: a pic of yours truly having the time of her life at Despacio at iii Points in Miami last October.) AND: Soulwax also just announced a Thursday night—September 24th—pre-Portola-party show at the Regency; the last time I saw them perform there in 2018 with their full setup was so sick! Rest up, buckle up.

Another thing to strap in for: as many of you longtime subscribers already know, this is tablehopper’s 20th anniversary year (mamma mia), and I’m finally mustering the energy and carving out the time to kick off a series of small celebrations over the coming months. Unfortunately, I just don’t have the bandwidth to produce a big bodacious PARTAY on the scale of Bohemian Sunday at the Savoy Tivoli a couple years ago, but we’ll have some quality time together at a variety of intimate tablehopper cocktail parties, special dinners, happy hours, brunches, and more. I look forward to clinking glasses with you! 🥂 There will be bubbles (that should be the title of my memoir!). Only supporting subscribers (and awesome patrons and super patrons) will be able to get tickets to these soirées! Stay tuned!

If you (or a brand or company or product you work with) would like to be involved as an event partner or sponsor/donor/supporter/underwriter, please get in touch! There are a bunch of opportunities and ways we can work together. Thank you for supporting tablehopper’s 20th anniversary event series!

There’s much more to say about my 20th, but first, this bizzee lady has work to do. I hope you enjoy today’s issue: I hit up a couple new places this past week offering affordable dining, from khao mun gai to katsu.

In fried chicken we trust. XO!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Calling All Khao Mun Gai Fans: Here’s Where to Find Some Really Delicious Thai Chicken Rice 

After looking at the hunger-inducing pictures of the khao mun gai (Thai chicken rice) at the new Ruay Mitr (the name means “prosperous friends”) on the edge of Nob Hill and Chinatown, I asked tablehopper summer intern Francesca Gasparini to please write it up in an opening report. But, I couldn’t stop thinking about it, so I headed over for dinner with a friend to check it out this past week (I love KMG). 

And then there’s the damn AI art on the walls, with AI-generated street scenes and posters for the business, which feel at odds with the homestyle food and intention of this place. Faux nostalgia is so dystopian—they should just put some vintage Thai beer posters up and call it a day. Heck, I would prefer bare walls to retro AI slop. Please make it stop. Open daily 11am–2pm and 5pm–8pm. 1059 Powell St. at Washington.

And so, to not render Francesca’s work in vain, here’s what she wrote about the new shop:

Ruay Mitr prides itself on perfectly prepared, tender chicken, fragrant rice, comforting broth and homemade sauces. Inspired by neighborhood chicken and rice shops common in Thailand, the restaurant offers just a handful of dishes prepared using traditional Thai recipes and fresh ingredients to infuse the meat with flavor. There are a few variations of the dish you can choose from—including poached, fried, or braised chicken with curry—yet their menu extends past just the one dish. 

Traditional Thai chicken and rice shops are rooted in flavorful meat served over khao mun (fragrant rice), and extend to include crispy pork belly, barbecued pork, roast duck, and slow-braised pork, among others. To honor this same practice, Ruay Mitr’s menu also features barbecued pork and crispy pork belly. In addition to their meat and rice dishes, the shop rounds out their menu with a selection of traditional appetizers (the crispy curried samosas and crab wontons sound divine) and mango sticky rice and fried bananas for dessert. Open daily 11am–2pm and 5pm–8pm. 1059 Powell St. at Washington.

A Casual Place for Japanese-Korean Katsu Plates (and More) Opens in Anza Vista

Cinderella Bakery Opens a Second Location on 24th Street This Week

The project delays are over: according to a post on Instagram, Cinderella Bakery (a family-owned Russian bakery that has been in Inner Richmond since 1953!) will be opening their second location in the former La Victoria on 24th Street in the Mission on Friday August 28th. (I wrote about this project back in February 2025, so it’s good to see it come to fruition.)

Bring on the pelmeni in broth (perfect for Fogust), pirogi, piroshki, and all their pastries. Owners Mike and Marika Fishman are looking forward to being part of the Calle 24 community. I’ll get more details together for an upcoming column, but I just wanted to share the good news for now. 2937 24th St. at Alabama.

Ugh! Hideous Vandals Broke Most of the Many Windows at Boogaloos in the Mission 

What the actual hell. A tablehopper reader wrote in with some terrible news: “Someone broke all the windows at Boogaloos! It didn’t look like anything was stolen, but someone had knocked a hole in all 8(?) front-facing windows. It’s really terrible.” Indeed. My friend who has his shop nearby told me most of the big windows were boarded up, and it’s going to be a costly repair job. For a corner location known for its big windows, it’s so disheartening to see.

I reached out for more information and clarification on how we can help, and spoke with one of the owners, Antonio Luna, who took over the business with his wife, Karla Garcia, in April 2025. He said it happened sometime on Monday night (August 17th), and the SFPD called him super early on Tuesday morning (at 4:15am) to let him know. Boogaloos was the only place hit. It looks like 12 windows will need to be replaced, which is estimated to cost more than $55K. Fortunately, insurance is going to cover it (after they pay their deductible), but the restaurant had to close for two days to clean up the mess, and business is slow. If you can please ignore the boarded-up windows and go visit them for brunch this weekend, or in the coming month, it would really help them out.

Of course, someone has already tagged the plywood. Is there an artist/muralist who can help make the plywood look better until the windows are replaced? It will keep things from looking so rundown (they need all the customers they can get). You can call the restaurant and ask for Antonio.

Luna said this was the third time someone has broken a window at Boogaloos since they took over—the most recent time was just two weeks ago, and the vandals tried to steal their espresso machine. He paid to replace the window out of his pocket ($1,500). Here’s hoping The City can step in and help—this Mission brunch spot has been holding down the sunny corner of 22nd and Valencia since 1994. 3296 22nd St. at Valencia.

Noe Valley Updates: Alice’s Restaurant Is Closing, Fresca 2.0 Is Opening

According to this post on Threads, “After 30 years Alice’s in Noe Valley is closing! 😩 Sad to see this neighborhood Chinese neighborhood gone.” Sharon and James Sung opened Alice’s Restaurant in 1996, which is known for its Hunan and Mandarin dishes, like smoked pork, Alice’s spicy eggplant, and orange chicken, and this neighborhood spot is also popular for its great lunch special. I called and got the word that the couple is retiring—the last day of business is August 31st.

I guess customers will be able to head over to the nearby and Sung family–owned Eric’s Restaurant (Kim Dang and Tony Sung), which is also known for its Hunan and Mandarin dishes (it opened in 1991). But, alas, we will no longer be able to compare who makes a better General Tso’s chicken. 1599 Sanchez St. at 29th St.

You can read this story in SFGATE about the return of Fresca (one of SF’s first Peruvian restaurants) to Noe Valley, thanks to the next generation of the Calvo-Perez family business. The opening is set for Monday August 24th, starting at 4pm, and reservations are open now. Follow along for updates here. 3945 24th St. at Sanchez.

the lush

Getting Cinched Up

Just a heads-up that The Cinch Saloon will be closing temporarily for renovations starting Monday September 21st. According to the sign in their window: “We will keep you posted on social media as the reopening date becomes available, sometime around mid-October. Thank you for your patience during that time!” 

The Friday before the closure (September 18th) will be a wild one: the illustrious Anna Conda is coming back to town and holding a Charlie Horse reunion, the rock ’n’ roll drag show that was always wild! From the flyer: “The old gang is getting back together. A little older but clearly none the wiser! Anna Conda welcomes to the stage once more: Monistat, Miss Nix, Lucy Borden, Mutha Chucka, Dizzy Blank, Juanita Fajita, Kegel Kater, Downy, Turleen, Sandy Shorts, Noseeum, and Sheena Rose. With the Marcy Playground Minute with Miss Chief at 11pm. DJ Dirty Knees. Guest Bartender Michael Brown. Names names names, Darling. Zimmerframe valet at the door. FRIDAY SEPT 18TH. SHOW AT MIDNIGHT!” (And, psssst, it’s Glendon’s birthday that night!) 1723 Polk St. at Washington.

Be SF Proud, Drink Pisco

By Francesca Gasparini

San Francisco’s trademark cocktail just got its own week of valor. From August 21st–28th, local bars will be taking part in Pisco Punch Week, a time to celebrate the ingenious recipe created right here in The City, while shedding light on its namesake Peruvian spirit.

Pisco punch was created in the mid-1800s at the Bank Exchange Saloon, a famed Gold Rush bar, by bartender and owner Duncan Nicol. The drink is built around a few key ingredients: Peruvian Italia pisco, pineapple gum syrup, and fresh lemon juice. While the recipe was supposed to remain a secret, many were quick to reinvent the drink due to its immediate popularity. Loved for its tropical, refreshing taste with a discreet yet potent dose of alcohol, pisco punch became known as “lemonade that kicks like a mule” (according to the Pisco Punch Week website). Prohibition snuffed out much of the pisco punch craze, but BarSol (pisco producer and host of Pisco Punch Week) hopes to reinvigorate San Franciscans’ appreciation for this local cocktail through this event.

Throughout the week, participating bars—including Aziza, Bar Esper, Bar Sprezzatura, Elixir, High Horse, Hog Island, Kaiyo, La Mar, Lillie Coit, Novela, Old Ship, Per Diem, San Francisco Historium, and Tiya—will be serving original cocktails made using BarSol pisco, in addition to traditional pisco punch.

Pisco punch is not only a relic of San Francisco’s culinary legacy, but also an introduction to the rich history of the spirit. BarSol prides itself on preserving the same century-old technique it uses to distill fresh wines fermented exclusively from pisco grapes harvested in the Southern Valley of Ica and distilled at Bodega San Isidro. Salud!

the archivist

The Flatiron That Refuses to Fall

By Francesca Gasparini

Having withstood earthquakes, organized crime, ever-changing businesses, and Hollywood’s greatest stars, the famed Sentinel Building (otherwise known as Columbus Tower) stands steadfast in the narrow sliver before the intersection of Kearny Street and Columbus Avenue. This fabulous flatiron building catches the eye of everyone in North Beach with its bright green patina and countless bay windows. 

Subscribe to tablehopper and support our love for San Francisco. 🥂

what’s cookin’

Well hellllllloooooo Fogust. Here we are. At least I just finished having my closet painted a violet-tinged 80’s fuchsia that will have me thinking pink on the gray days. I also had my bathroom painted yesterday (a pinky lavender that is evocative of Easter, hence the paint’s precious name: Bunny Nose Pink), so things have been a bit chaotic over here at Hopper HQ, but visually uplifting, that’s for sure. Let’s just say focusing on writing while a couple chatty and interesting painters are five feet away from you was not really conducive to finishing my column yesterday, ha. And now, I need to put all my caftans back into my new Pinky Benson hawt box closet, so let’s get to the news.

But first: please help support and signal boost this fundraiser to help rebuild and reopen the Tenderloin Museum after suffering major water damage. They have uninsured recovery needs, and in this city of obscene wealth, we need to set them up with more than the fundraiser’s current total of $5,733 in donations to ensure the museum’s stable future. As a good friend wrote to me: “A vital space for sharing the stories of this unparalleled neighborhood, the TLM is an under appreciated SF treasure that needs our support. Please donate if you can, and share with your networks. Any amount helps.” You can read and share this post on Instagram as well, thank you.

Have a fun weekend: there’s a lot going on, like the SF Pizza, Bagel, & Beer Festival on Saturday (and you can shake off those carbs to The Juan MacLean, who is playing at Public Works that night!), and Sunday is all about Dirty Martini Frappés, plus even more tasty events below.

See you next week. Think best thoughts for our Big Sur friends.

With love,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Pasta Supply Co Is Coming to Cole Valley, and You Can Help Them Open By Snagging One of Their Weekly Pasta Plans

A couple weeks ago, supporting subscribers got the scoop first that the next location of Pasta Supply Co is coming to Cole Valley, opening in the former Peet’s Coffee (once Tully’s Coffee, and Spinelli Coffee Company before that). Founder Anthony Strong, who has lived in the neighborhood for 12 years, and his wife, Katherine Altonaga, are gunning for a fall opening (think October). Strong says he’s hopeful that people taking the N Judah home will be inspired to jump off and stop by to grab something for dinner before making their way to their final destination in the Sunset. (Always thinking, that one.)

This will be the third PSC shop in three years, and they continue to pride themselves on staying small (but mighty)—this location should have 26 seats, plus sidewalk seats, too. The retail setup will be the same as the other two spots in the Inner Richmond and the Mission, but they’ll be adding coffee-rubbed porchetta on their ciabatta here as a cute nod to the former Spinelli’s. 

Something else new they’re trying is to crowdsource/crowdfund the project themselves instead of paying one of the existing platforms their fees (or getting investors, or a loan, and starting the venture in debt). Here’s where things get fun: 200 subscribers can buy the Pasta for a Year plan for $550, and once a week, you can take home one pasta per week for 52 weeks (from the crab + sriracha rangooni to an extruded pasta, you’ll have over 30 to choose from). 

If you’re feeling really pazzo—like a certified pasta freak—there’s the Pasta for Life plan, which is $4K and limited to 100 subscribers. Strong explains it’s like getting the PSC employee discount by paying up front, and what’s super cool is you don’t need to wait for Cole Valley to open: the plans are redeemable now at any and all of their locations. You know what to do! 919 Cole St. at Carl.

Upcoming SF Projects from the Friends and Family Team and The Mushroom

Your Presidio Picnic Just Got Reimagined: The Mess Hall Opens August 15th

By Francesca Gasparini

There’s nothing like stopping your run halfway through to get a steaming plate of crispy Korean fried chicken. Good news for picnic-goers and deeply discouraging news for the exercise-focussed crew: your favorite running path just got a tantalizing food hall right in the center of it. Consider your cardio officially compromised. 

The Presidio’s very own Mess Hall will open in Tunnel Tops Park this Friday August 15th, and is ready to lure in all passersby with its all-day offerings. Incorporated into the Presidio National Park, this new food hall brings three restaurants, a cocktail bar, café, and specialty food market to Tunnel Tops. The Mess Hall’s 6,200-square-foot space offers dinner with a view, with sprawling vistas of the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz Island, and the Palace of Fine Arts. The building was originally constructed in 1897 as part of the Presidio’s historic military campus, but has been newly renovated into a modern communal space designed by Studio KDA and built by ACI.

The Mess Hall’s six different concepts were thoughtfully selected by consulting chef Peter Serpico (of the Momofuku Group and STARR Restaurants) and founding partner and director of operations Nate Leonard. They aimed to choose options that were casual, delicious, and could be served all day.

The three featured restaurants include Dayboat Seafood, serving up oysters, shrimp cocktail, crudo, clam chowder, and hand rolls; Boda, a Korean-Japanese street-food concept offering Korean fried chicken, housemade banchan, kimchi fried rice, and mandu (dumplings); and, finally, Breadwinner, supplying breakfast sandwiches, smashburgers, salads, and subs.

For what to expect from the coffee bar, get excited for Wrecking Ball beans and baked goods from James Beard Award–nominated Breadbelly, all ready to go every morning by 7am. 

The bar will display a full beverage program featuring house-crafted cocktails alongside local beer and wine to be enjoyed on the bridge-facing patio and wraparound deck. Aiming to transform this space into a neighborhood staple, the Mess Hall will also have a specialty market stocked with prepared grab-and-go food, bottled beverages, cheeses, and picnic essentials. They also plan to collaborate with local chefs and restaurants for seasonal pop-ups, such as seafood boils and smashburger cookouts on the Tunnel Tops outdoor grills. Operating hours will be Mon–Thu 7am–8pm; open Fri–Sun 7am–10pm. 201 Halleck St. at French. 

A Couple More New Casual Stops in Flava Town

By Francesca Gasparini

San Francisco summer is bringing new restaurants popping up left and right, so buckle up, because we have news of even more openings to deliver.

Nightbird Knows How to Celebrate a 10-Year Anniversary: With 10 Fun and Super-Tasty Events

Big congrats to chef Kim Alter and Ron Boyd, who are celebrating 10 years of Nightbird! Of course, they’re doing it in style, with 10 events to commemorate each year of business (which is like dog years, amirite?). They kick things off this Wednesday August 12th, with the redux of PrimeBird, their modern homage to House of Prime Rib (using Flannery Beef, with smoked wagyu bone marrow hollandaise that you dunk the truffle and cheddar Yorkshire pudding into, uh huh!). You get three courses for $85 (exclusive of tax, 18% service charge, and SF mandate 6%), plus there are some supplements (they’re talking about adding a seared New York steak this season). It all goes down in Nightjar, their PDR flanking Nightbird. You can book your table on intermittent Tuesday–Friday nights (5pm–8:30pm) through September. 334 Gough St. at Linden.

And then this Thursday August 13th, the beef parade continues with the return of Nightburger, their decadent daytime burger pop-up, which you may recall from the early days of the pandemic. They’ll be serving their double cheeseburger (with a cheese skirt and their special 138 sauce), their fried chicken sandwich (made with chicken marinated in buttermilk and shio koji, served with slaw, fried onions, and pepperoncini on a Kaiser roll—with fried chicken skin!), waffle fries, and fun “soda jerk” cocktails inside the Linden Room; you can sit down in the bar or get your order to go from 2pm–8pm. 292 Linden St. at Gough.

Sandwich fanatics: you don’t want to miss C Squared (as in See You Next Tuesday) on Monday August 24th, Kim’s homage to the rowdy The Wieners Circle in Chicago (she lived in Chi-Town for a year). Standing in for the notoriously hostile staff will be Sister Roma slinging barbs and insults. On the menu:

12pm to sell out. 334 Gough St. at Linden.

More Anniversaries and Shindigs

A fellow biz celebrating their 20th anniversary this year is The Front Porch, and they’re throwing a 20th buffet and boil this Saturday August 15th. There will be a big-ass crawfish boil, a buffet of fried chicken, mac and cheese, rice and beans, cornbread, and coleslaw for $50 (reserve your ticket here). There will also be a second line performance from MJ’s Brass Boppers, flash tattoos, and good times rollin’. 2pm–5pm.

Although Saturday August 15th is officially Ferragosto (Italy’s treasured summer holiday), Delfina will be hosting their second annual Ferragosto aperitivo party on Tuesday August 18th, with spirits and specialty cocktails from sponsor Bordiga, Italian wines from Oliver McCrum, frosé, and complimentary snacks inspired by beachy good vibes. 5pm–6:30pm.

Closures Around the Bay

Some unfortunate closures include Chicken Fried Palace in the former WesBurger ’N’ More in the Mission (read more in these pieces by The SF Standard and SFGATE); Superprime Steakhouse was priced out by their landlord in SoMa (via The SF Standard); longtime Russian Hill restaurant Hyde Street Seafood House and Raw Bar has closed; and over in Old Oakland, Horn Barbecue has closed their last location (via Berkeley Eats and SF Chronicle).

the sponsor

Your Love for Heirloom Tomatoes Could Win You a Year of Dining in San Francisco!

A few weeks ago, I mentioned the return of the GGRA’s SF Tomato Month, and now they’ve added an Instagram dining challenge, giving you a chance to win 1 Year of SF Dining: 13 gift certificates to 13 SF restaurants. It’s a baker’s dozen! And it’s so easy to enter: all it takes is one post on Instagram, but you only have until this Saturday to enter to win!

How to enter:
Share a photo of your favorite tomato or summer restaurant dish on Instagram with the hashtag #SFTomatoMonth. That’s it. 

For inspo, here are a couple of my entries!

One lucky winner will receive gift certificates to: Cotogna, Wayfare Tavern, Jane the Bakery, Brenda’s French Soul Food, Canela Bistro Bar, E&O Kitchen & Bar, Waterbar, Harborview Restaurant & Bar, Splash Sports Bar at Thrive City, Beretta, Bosco, and Ladle & Leaf/Oren’s Hummus (all gift cards are $100+ each, except for the Ladle & Leaf and Oren’s Hummus cards, which are $25 each). You’ll be busy and popular with your friends!

Enter by 11:59pm PDT on August 15th, 2026. Post your dish, tag #SFTomatoMonth, and you could be dining out in style for the next 12 months!

And for the overachiever: if you dine out at any five restaurants or farmers markets in SF between July 15th–August 15th, you can submit five photos of summer produce to enter the raffle to enter to win one of four staycation packages, with overnight stays at SF hotels! (Tomato dishes are encouraged, but corn, peaches, and other summer produce count, too.)

Good luck and happy tomato season! 🍅

the socialite

Raise Your Glass at the Toast & Taste Gala: City of Magic

By Francesca Gasparini

Mark your calendars for the evening of Tuesday August 18th, for a night of fantastic food, exceptional drinks, and a cause worth raising a glass to at San Francisco Private Dining Venues’ (SFPDV) ninth annual Toast & Taste gala. SFPDV is gathering 40 of San Francisco’s top restaurants, including A16, Acquerello, Boulevard, Copra, Harris’ Restaurant, Merkado, Original Joe’s, Perbacco, and Spruce, to create a night full of delectable offerings for a worthy cause. The event will be hosted at the snazzy Chotto Matte.

100 percent of proceeds from this event will go toward Compass Family Services, an organization devoted to aiding families experiencing homelessness. This gala has raised over $428,000 in past years to help parents and children who are struggling to stay afloat. Compass Family Services has been in operation for more than 100 years, and has delivered lasting stability to thousands of families (11,000 individuals last year alone!). Join SFPDV for a night to give back to the community by doing what we do best.

Tickets are on sale now. If you purchase your ticket online, general admission will ring in at $150, or purchase at the door the night of the 18th for $175. 6pm—9pm. 50 O’Farrell St. at Stockton.

the matchmaker

PIZZA COOK / PIZZAIOLO — FULL TIME
Tommaso’s | North Beach, San Francisco

Tommaso’s is looking for an experienced Pizzaiolo/Pizza Cook to join our kitchen team. We are a 90-year-old San Francisco institution known for our traditional pizza and original wood-burning oven. We’re looking for someone who understands dough, respects the craft, and can execute consistently during a busy service. You should have:

• 3+ years professional pizza experience
• Strong knowledge of dough, fermentation, stretching, and pizza preparation
• Wood-burning oven experience strongly preferred
• Ability to work quickly while maintaining quality and consistency
• Excellent timing and attention to detail
• Reliable, punctual, honest, and hardworking
• Strong communication and a team-first attitude
• Ability to lift and carry 50+ lbs
• Experience prepping and maintaining a professional pizza station
• Wednesday–Sunday availability
• Bilingual English/Spanish is a plus

This is a hands-on position for someone who takes pride in their craft and wants to be part of a true San Francisco culinary institution. Please apply with your resume to Mo@Tommasos.com, and tell us about your pizza experience, dough knowledge, and wood-fired oven experience.

the starlet

It’s the perfect time to subscribe to tablehopper. Trust me. Fun things are coming. 🥂

what’s cookin’

Howdy, friends. I’m trying to get this column back on its regular schedule of going out earlier in the week, wish me luck. Last night, I was invited to an industry screening of “Tony” before its theatrical release this Friday August 5th (thank you, Liam Mayclem, for the invite, and OpenTable for hosting). I know, it’s a daunting concept to even think of making a film about the monolithic Anthony Bourdain, but director Matt Johnson (and actor Dominic Sessa from “The Holdovers”)...

More icons: I’m so pleased to see Jeanette Etheredge get her flowers in a helluva colorful NYT obituary full of stories and quotes and keen observations—I was a little concerned her passing was going to remain a local story, but I’m glad the indelible mark she left on our city and the importance of her rare kind of hospitality and unique life finally got picked up and celebrated in the Old Gray Lady.

Since I hit pause on reporting on a lot of news while I was in Tahoe, I have a bunch of stories and catch-up links and blurbs for you today. Over 5,200 words tonight, people. Whew. It’s kind of wild to see how much is happening right now—so many upcoming openings and cafés and bakeries, buckle up. Thanks to summer intern Francesca Gasparini for helping me wrangle all these updates!

Let’s jump in.
~Marcia

the chatterbox

An Update on Tommaso’s (Including Upcoming Suppers to Help Support the Restaurant)

After writing about the tough times over at Tommaso’s in North Beach a couple weeks ago, I followed up with owner Mo Donegan for an update on how things are going. First, she wanted to say thanks to so many of you for all the generosity you showed in your donations to the 91-year-old restaurant’s GoFundMe (I told her I saw a bunch of subscriber names in the list of donations—you’re the best).

She mentioned a couple generous angels swooped in to loan her the money to cover her back rent and avoid eviction (as a loan, not a gift, as reported by the SF Chronicle, which caused the GoFundMe donations to slow down). So, if you feel like kicking in some dough to help her pay back the loans and get her head above water, that would be amazing. Keep it flowin’.

Donegan said business has been on the upswing since the announcement that the iconic restaurant was struggling, so she appreciates everyone showing up, but, she has been short-staffed, so she wants to thank everyone for their patience as she makes some new hires (and her host returns from vacation).

I reached out holding a tablehopper supper later this fall, so stand by on that, but in the meantime, her good friend Barbie is hosting two dinners—The Tommaso’s Family Table—to help raise funds on Tuesday August 11th and 18th, with seatings available at 5:30pm and 8pm. The supper will include an antipasto plate of Italian cured meats, marinated vegetables, and olives, as well as a Caesar salad and garlic bread. The family-style entrées will include their lasagna, eggplant Parmigiana, chicken piccata, and a selection of Tommaso’s classic, wood-fired pizzas, with mini chocolate cannoli for dessert. Pricing is $200 per head, all-inclusive, with wine! (If you want to donate wine for the event, or BYOB, you can do that.) Contact Tommasospartyreso@gmail.com with your preferred day, time (Tuesday August 11th or 18th, with seatings at 5:30pm and 8pm), and group size, and if you have any questions. 1042 Kearny St. at Broadway.

Two More Calls for Support, from Gumbo Social and Reem’s Mission

In addition to our dear Tommaso’s, there are a couple other SF restaurants that could use our support. Chef-owner Dontaye Ball of Gumbo Social has temporarily closed his three-year-old Bayview restaurant for six weeks (until August 17th) so he could upgrade equipment (including installing a new commercial oven), strengthen operations, allow the team to rest, and do some R&D for the next chapter.

Ball launched a GoFundMe to fund a pilot evening takeout window so they can offer Bayview a dinner option from 6pm–10pm. Funds will go toward installing a service door, security cameras, and the staffing needed to run it safely. 

Café Mélange, Gumbo Social’s sister restaurant in Civic Center, will remain open and serves gumbo if you need a fix.

More ways to support: book Gumbo Social for catering! Visit their booth at Outside Lands (they’ll be serving their Louisiana-style chicken and sausage gumbo, vegan gumbo, fried fish filet sandwiches, Cajun fries, and strawberry-basil lemonade). And, get a ticket to Gumbo Social’s 6th Annual All-You-Can-Eat Seafood Boil on Sunday August 23rd to celebrate Mr. Gumbo’s birthday. Your ticket ($49.99) includes unlimited servings of shrimp, smoked sausage, baby potatoes, sweet corn, and all the buttery Old Bay and Cajun goodness you can handle from 12pm–2pm (or until they sell out). 5176 3rd St. at Thornton.

And this is such a bummer: after suffering significant damage from a car crashing into the storefront of Reem’s Mission in a hit-and-run on the night of June 10th, the team has made the challenging decision to close for two months, starting this past Sunday August 2nd. In a recent post, they share: “Initial estimates put the cost of repairs at almost $200,000 and, because foundational damage may have been done to the building, the work may require pulling permits from the city, which could add up to six weeks to the timeline. We hope insurance will cover costs, but we have yet to hear a definitive response regarding what they will cover.

“We hoped we could keep some of our team working and make ends meet by continuing to offer takeout, delivery, and catering while we get the repairs done, but it’s simply not enough. In an industry with skyrocketing costs and razor-thin margins, we simply do not have the cash reserves to float us during this time.” If you’re able to support, please donate to their GoFundMe. 2901 Mission St. at 25th St.

Reem’s will also be at Outside Lands, teaming up with the American Lamb Board to bring back their La Gringa lamb quesabirria wrap, as well as serving Arab party fries and chocolate chip cookies. They’re also collaborating with Lion Dance Cafe on a vegan sambal tomat man’oushe. And, you can go visit the new Reem’s Jack London Square, a worker-owned café and flagship bakery in Oakland (at 85 Webster Street).

Let’s Get Baked: So Many New Bakeries Are Coming, Including a New Location of Maison Nico

Tartine is going to open a fourth location in San Francisco, a bakery in a former CVS at California and Sansome. The SF Chronicle reports the new Financial District location will actually be serving more than pastries and coffee, bringing breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It’s a significant buildout, so stand by for timing in 2027. 351 California St. at Sansome.

Angelica Nulud and Paul Faraon of Filipino pastry popup La Kalidád have a location for their café-bakery: 680 A 2nd Street in South Beach (previously Birdbox). They plan to open in the fall, in time for holiday pie orders. 680 A 2nd St. at Townsend. [Via SF Chronicle]

Something to diminish some of the sads over Shuggie’s closing is the news of who’s going in: Florecita Panaderia, the Mexican American bakery from owners Ximena and Jared Williams. They’re vacating their current Mission location, and plan to start serving their California-style conchas (and more) in mid-September. The SF Standard mentions they’re going to partner with a Bay Area coffee brand to handle coffee service in the second dining room, and will invite chefs to pop up and offer savory items as well. Stand by for more. 3349 23rd St. at Bartlett.

New Pastries Coming to Polk as Saturbake Goes Permanent

By Francesca Gasparini

Coming this fall is Lorella, a new bakery concept from chef-owner Melissa Loar and chef-partner Melissa Perello of Frances and Octavia. What started as Saturbake, a recurring pop-up at Octavia, has now gained permanent footing and plans to deliver seasonal pastries, fresh loaves, elevated desserts, and coffee to Russian Hill.

Cawfee Tawk: Exciting New Openings, Including SF’s First Café Highlighting Speciality Coffee from India

When I returned from Tahoe a couple weekends back, I swung by the upcoming Le Mil’s Coffee, which was getting close to soft opening in the space under Funky Door Yoga on Polk Street. I had reached out a few weeks ago for more info, but hadn’t heard back, so I was lucky with my in-person visit timing and got to meet one of the owners, Milana Ram (her husband and co-owner is Himanshu Bhaisare).

The airy space was looking great, with Modbar espresso machines set in a custom bar top with resin poured to look like the rainbow on their branding, comfortable chairs that will invite you to linger (plus a mezzanine with even more seating), and an eye-catching ceiling installation made of baskets. Ram was busy meeting with her plant consultant, but she let me buy a bag of their Chikka espresso blend with shade-grown, hand-picked, and sun-dried Arabica and Robusta beans sourced from her fifth-generation family farm in Navilumane Estate in Chikmagalur (in Karnataka in southwestern India). Le Mil roasts their coffee in small batches every two weeks in Berkeley (the Chikka was smooth, creamy, and balanced, with an extra boost of caffeine—I’ll take it!).

There is much more to Le Mil’s story, which you can read in these features in the SF Chronicle and SFGATE, and I look forward to returning to the café very soon to try some of their specialty coffee drinks. They’re having their soft opening right now, and the grand opening is Saturday August 15th, on India’s Independence Day. Here’s to San Francisco’s first café dedicated to specialty coffee from India! Keep track of their updates and hours here. 1330 Polk St. at Austin (near Pine).

Fuel Up for Your Next Adventure at Double Black

By Francesca Gasparini

Don’t Tell Your Cardiologist! Tacos El Patrón Is Coming to the Fillmore District

By Francesca Gasparini

If you like Tijuana-style quesabirria, then you likely know and love Tacos El Patrón. Lucky for me, my first-ever quesabirria experience was there, and ever since, the bar has been set exceptionally high. So, I know I’m not the only one who is thrilled with the news (via SF Business Times) that the Bay Area taquería is opening its fourth location on Fillmore Street in the former home of Scott’s Chowder House, making this the largest Tacos El Patrón location yet.

Tacos El Patrón gained stardom thanks to its standout quesabirria: tacos grilled to perfection with crispy, cheese-latticed edges, stuffed with slow-braised, shredded beef, and served with a rich, deeply flavorful consomé for dipping. Other menu items—like its grilled meat tacos and burritos—showcase owner Alberto Pineda and his wife Mariana Reza’s commitment to serving authentic Mexican flavors using family recipes and high-quality ingredients. 

This new location should be opening in coming weeks, and will be welcoming back tacos de guisado: traditional homestyle Mexican stews (like chile verde and tinga de pollo), a specialty that was once the concept of their past brick-and-mortar, Los Guisados Del Patrón on S. Van Ness Avenue. 1325 Fillmore St. at Eddy.

Even More Expansions Around Town

Better Late Than Never: Jollibee Finally Opened Their Downtown Location

East Bay Updates: Bring on the Hoagies and Injera and More

Enssaro just relocated into its new space in Rockridge after 20 years in Oakland’s Adams Point neighborhood. The family-run Ethiopian restaurant bought a permanent home on College Avenue to pass down to future generations. The mother-daughter-son Tamirue family team enlisted Ethiopian designer Kalu Gebreyohannes-Royster of Liyu Designs to create a space that feels “unmistakably Ethiopian.” The owners ensure that the new location preserves everything longtime patrons love about the restaurant, as well as adding a redesigned bar and cocktail program that you can enjoy on the inviting open-air patio. Operating hours are Mon–Fri 5pm–10pm and Sat–Sun 11am–10pm. 5897 College Ave. at Chabot, Oakland. -FG

While scrolling through Facebook last week, I noticed my friend Mo Hodges (previously Benjamin Cooper) announced a new project: Hoagie’s World of Hoagies coming to Berkeley. Suh-weet! The Philly native will be serving Italian hoagies, cheesesteaks, and roast pork with broccoli rabe and provolone, all on Amoroso’s rolls. You can read about it in this post on Berkeley Eats. The late August opening can’t come soon enough. 2618 Telegraph Ave. at Carleton, Berkeley.

Congrats to chef-owner Geoff Davis of Burdell, who will be opening his wood-fired, steak-centric concept, Uncles, in 2027 in the Wood Tavern location (which is closing after 20 years at the end of this year). The style will be more approachable instead of special-occasion steak, with a creative and seasonal spin on classic steakhouse sides and sauces; Uncles will also be open for lunch, dinner, and brunch. You can read more in this piece in Food & Wine and the SF Chronicle. 6317 College Ave. at 63rd St., Oakland.

the sponsor

Your Love for Heirloom Tomatoes Could Win You a Year of Dining in San Francisco!

A couple weeks ago, I mentioned the return of the GGRA’s SF Tomato Month, and now they’ve added an Instagram dining challenge, giving you a chance to win 1 Year of SF Dining: 13 gift certificates to 13 SF restaurants. It’s a baker’s dozen! And it’s so easy to enter: all it takes is one post on Instagram.

How to enter:
Share a photo of your favorite tomato or summer restaurant dish on Instagram with the hashtag #SFTomatoMonth. That’s it. 

One lucky winner will receive gift certificates to: Cotogna, Wayfare Tavern, Jane the Bakery, Brenda’s French Soul Food, Canela Bistro Bar, E&O Kitchen & Bar, Waterbar, Harborview Restaurant & Bar, Splash Sports Bar at Thrive City, Beretta, Bosco, and Ladle & Leaf/Oren’s Hummus (all gift cards are $100+ each, except for the Ladle & Leaf and Oren’s Hummus cards, which are $25 each). You’ll be busy and popular with your friends!

Enter by 11:59pm PDT on August 15th, 2026. Post your dish, tag #SFTomatoMonth, and you could be dining out in style for the next 12 months!

And for the overachiever: if you dine out at any five restaurants or farmers markets in SF between July 15th–August 15th, you can submit five photos of summer produce to enter the raffle to enter to win one of four staycation packages, with overnight stays at SF hotels! (Tomato dishes are encouraged, but corn, peaches, and other summer produce count, too.)

Good luck and happy tomato season! 🍅

the socialite

Outside Lands Is This Weekend—Whatcha Gonna Eat?

It’s already so unbelievable that August is here, and it’s even more bonkers that Outside Lands is this weekend (August 7th–9th). I’m sad to sit this year out, but such is life. OSL food curator Tanya Kollar has done another bang-up job with the Taste of the Bay Area food lineup, so I thought I’d point out a few bites that would be top of my list if I was going. 

I’ve already mentioned Gumbo Social and Reem’s (with Lion Dance Cafe) above, and did you see that Caché is serving ham and cheese galettes (made with buckwheat)? New to the lineup: Mi Comedor (a La Cocina entrepreneur) will have pineapple al pastor chicken wings; Meski is making Dominican braised chicken sambusas...

Subscribe to tablehopper and live your best SF life. 🙌