Instead of curling up with a poultry catalog, scanning the internet dreaming of what could be or bemoaning what you think you can’t have, why not look into what you can have?

Bringing home your first flock or herd, or adding to an already existing one can be an exciting time. But, there are some things you need to do first. The most important first step, and the one I always recommend to any new suburban livestock owner, is find out what you are allowed to have on your property. Some suburban homeowners will only be able to raise a few rabbits, chickens, ducks or maybe a turkey, while others, like me, on a larger lot with different zoning regulations can have a larger variety – sheep and pigs. Regardless of your situation, you can still raise some of the meat and eggs your family eats, and that is better than nothing.

Including livestock on your suburban homestead is the backbone of a diversified healthy farm system and one that should be seriously considered regardless of your lot size. Even a few laying hens can clean up kitchen scraps, produce eggs and provide manure for the garden. It’s a whole cycle, folks.

Once you have determined which animals you are allowed to have on your property, decide what you want to have and how many. If you are allowed to have rabbits, but don’t like rabbit meat then don’t raise rabbits, at least not for meat. Rabbits for fun and manure is another choice.

The amount of space you have available for raising livestock will also dictate what you can raise and how many. Different species have different space requirements—chickens and rabbits only a few feet per animal, turkeys quite a bit more. As an example, I am zoned to raise a steer on my property, but, with gardens, fruit trees, berry patches and my existing animals I don’t have adequate space available for an animal that will eventually grow to 1000 pounds or more. I am looking into raising a heritage breed which tends to be small, but I may not have enough space for that either, even though I am zoned for a steer. So, I am content with raising meat chickens and ducks, freezer lambs and pigs because I can comfortably house and raise these animals if I raise them at different times of the year.

When you have decided what to raise and have calculated how many of each species you have room for, now is the time to seek out a breeder.

First off, and I think most important, is to find a breeder who has a similar livestock management style as you have or you want to have. If you plan to raise chickens organically and free range, then you should buy stock from a breeder who is doing the same. However, this is not as important if you are buying day old chicks or eggs to hatch because the management system will be determined by you.

The management system an animal comes from is especially important if you plan to raise larger livestock like sheep or pigs, even cattle, and more so with goats. There are many breeders who think nothing of injecting their animals with growth hormones and supplements to improve their chances of survival or faster growth. If this is the case, how do you really know what the animals’ abilities are in an environment that does not include drugs? How do the chemicals affect their natural immunity? Ability to convert feed? Or, their ability to grow to maturity?

When raising larger livestock, you should also ask the breeder about birthing statistics. Along with knowing what the female’s litter size or her rate of singles, twins or triplets is, you also want to know about the frequency of birthing difficulties. If a breeder has a high rate of births that require assistance, they are either way too involved in the birthing process (not letting nature take its course), or they have a flock or herd that is predisposed to birthing problems. Any animal can have a miss-positioned baby once or twice in its life, but any animal that requires birthing assistance every year is one that does not have a desirable trait you want. Other problems that are genetic in nature and should be avoided are mouth, feet and leg problems, females that have poor mothering abilities, prolapes, mastitis, or ketosis, or hoof rot, although hoof rot could be more a result of the wet climate where the breeder lives than an actual trait. I’ve purchased breeding animals from the wet Ohio Valley area with great results because of our hot dry Southern California climate. And, although it may be easier to purchase animals from local breeders, improving your flock or herd by introducing different genetics may force you to look elsewhere.

Herd history and statistics becomes even more important when raising dairy animals, especially goats, because the health of the animals will directly affect the quality of milk produced and your ability to sell milk or use it to make cheese. If you are seriously considering raising goats on your suburban homestead you’ll want to do a lot more research and due diligence especially on contagious diseases affecting many goat herds.

Finally—a few things to keep in mind; raising livestock in a suburban setting will NOT be pasture raised because of space constraints and lack of adequate grazing areas, and, if you plan to have an exclusively organic suburban farm you may have to eventually close your flock or herd. This means you will be raising all your own replacement stock with little or no influence from the outside. You will need to bring in new sires occasionally to avoid any inbreeding problems. The animals you produce will build up resistance to germs on your farm, passing this immunity on to their offspring, making a stronger herd or flock.

This makes perfect sense when you think about why large commercial feedlot operations have so many health problems that require chemical intervention. They bring in animals from all over and pen them together. Animals coming from different farms will have different germs or pathogens. It would be improbable for animals not to get sick.

Finding organic breeders to purchase your stock from can be a challenge, one that you may not always be successful at. I know I haven’t. But, if the breeder is reputable and runs a clean well managed operation, even if it is not organic, you should be able to transition the animals to your system quite easily, but know that your results may vary and a few animals may need to be culled before you find the hardiness you’re looking for. And no, culling does not have to mean butchering. Many times an animal that’s not right for your suburban farm will be just right for someone else, perhaps someone that has more property.

So good ahead folks, find out what you can do and take another step closer to food self-reliance. Not only will you be producing good meat for your family table, but you’ll have fun along the way.

Antique roses cover every arbor on the farm and the delicate fragrance that wafts through the night air is intoxicating.

Apple blooms are a promise of fall’s juicy crispness. Cider, tarts, pies and fresh eating are still months away, but nonetheless thought of.

The little peach tree is laden with small fruit. By July we’ll be eating them by the dozen. I can’t wait to make the first tartin of the season.

The deepest purple of this bearded iris makes it look almost black. Flowers like this are a reminder of wonderful friends. I got a few rhizomes from a fellow garden club member who loves to share. And, I will share too, I have no choice, everyone who sees it places an order for a bulb at dividing time. Fortunately for me that won’t be for another year or so.

I’m a big fan of using small bits of most anything to make hearty well balanced meals.—big fan. So much of what people leave behind in the fridge goes to waste when just a bit of creative energy can turn those bits into a wonderfully satisfying meal. Case in point — last night, when I was cleaning the kitchen I realized that my banana was getting too soft to eat. Usually I make banana bread out of the soft ones, but with my life as an empty nester a loaf of banana bread is too much for one person. My solution…turn that lone tropical fruit into a small batch of banana pancakes, with some help from a small amount of pecans I had in the freezer. Simple.

After mixing up a batch of pancake batter for one I mashed the banana, chopped a ¼ cup of pecans and threw it all into the bowl. Once that thick batter hit the hot griddle the kitchen smelled amazing; warm and inviting and comforting like an early fall morn. When my stack of pancakes came off the griddle I slathered them with butter and drizzled warm Vermont maple syrup over the top; added a few slices of crispy bacon and a sliced apple, and there it was—dinner. There’s nothing like the tantalizing smell of breakfast for dinner to turn your head away from the day and bring you solidly into the easy flow of a relaxing night. Perfect.

What little bits are looming in your fridge that can be made into a wonderful meal like a quiche, frittata, stew, soup or chopped to top a hearty salad? Be creative and eat well!

Colorful quilt’s, faded blue jeans and bright whites hanging on an outdoor line is the quintessential picture of homestead life. But, don’t think fresh, natural smelling, line dried clothing is reserved only for those who live in the country – because it’s not. Every suburban house, whether it be home or homestead can garner the benefits and the pleasures of hanging laundry on a clothes line.

It may not seem that hard to stick a clothespin on a piece of clothing and put it on a line, but as many have found, the results can be scratchy, stiff and wrinkled clothing.

So – what are the tricks that will give you soft, fresh smelling clothes? They’re simple.

But, before you’re ready to hang clothes on a line you’ll need the right equipment for the job. That means a sturdy clothes line, clothes pins and a clothes pin bag or apron. There are several different styles of clothes lines to choose from, but I like the 5-line retractable dryer because it extends 34-feet, which gives you 170-feet of hanging space. I also like the umbrella style because it rotates and allows you to bring the clothes to you.

Clothes pins and bags are easily found at Wal-Mart and are very reasonably priced. But, you can tap into your inner farm girl and make your own by using a spare apron and sewing a 10-inch long pocket onto it, or for an adorable solution take a toddler size button-front shirt and stitch the bottom closed, then put it on a hanger, fill with clothes pins and hang on the line.

• To ready clothes for the line, put them in the dryer on an air or fluff setting for 5 – 10 minutes. This uses almost no electricity and will make your clothes just as soft as if you ran them through a full dryer cycle. If you don’t have a dryer hang, clothes on a windy day. The buffeting wind will create the same result as a fluff cycle.
• As you hang each piece of clothing give it a firm, sharp SNAP. This only takes seconds and will help shape the garment and shake out some of the wrinkles.
• When washing clothes, use a fabric softener or white vinegar to help soften them. This will help keep clothes dryer soft.
• If you live in areas of the country that have bright sunny days, fading may become a problem, but it’s great for brightening up whites. If fading is a concern, just turn colored clothes inside out before hanging them on the line. Fading can also be kept to a minimum if clothes are brought in as soon as they are dry. But, whites can be left out longer and will become brighter.

Now is it time to hang your clothes on the line? Not just yet.

To make the whole process move along faster try these simple steps, then, as you become more comfortable with the process you can adjust them to meet your own needs.

Before you put clothes on the line sort them quickly into your laundry basket starting with large items like sheets, table clothes and bath towels. Fold in half and place in the basket. When it’s time to hang just pull them out and pin them on the clothesline.

Next pull out all pants and jeans and fold the legs with the seams together. Fold these in half with legs facing up for quick hanging.

Then pull out all shirts, T-shirts and smaller towels and stack them in the basket by like items, starting with the largest items and ending with the smallest items.

Next comes underwear, stacked in a flat pile with waistbands facing the same direction.

Last in the basket are socks. Match socks into pairs and give them a good TUG to straighten and flatten.

This may seem like a time consuming process, but you’ll quickly find it goes by fast and will eventually help you because you can pick up a stack of like items to hang and don’t have to constantly bend over to get each garment. And, when pulling clothes off the line they are already pre-sorted for you, which makes the folding or putting on hanger process go by much faster.

Now it’s time!

Hang pants upside down, by the legs. Water wicks down and the weight of the water and the waistband will help pull out the wrinkles.

Shirts and blouses are also hung upside down to help pull out wrinkles, but also to prevent little puckers that form when clothes are hung by the shoulder.

To hang T-shirts, fold in half by the side seams, then in half again and pin by the bottom of the shirt. This will help prevent shirt corners from pointing out.

Sheets and tablecloths should be folded in half length wise and hung by the corners. If needed, you can pin in the middle also.

If you don’t want your unmentionables flapping in the breeze for all the neighbors to see, hang them on the opposite side of larger items so they are hidden. Socks are hung by the toes, while undies are hung by a side seam.

To help save you from bending over to pull each item from the basket, place a small table, old TV tray or basket stand near the clothesline.

When taking clothes off the line, fold as you go and you’ll find everything is ready to put away or hang on hangers by the time you reach the house.

Some final tips

See which way the wind is blowing and hang smaller items in front (unless you’re hiding your unmentionables). If you hang larger items in front they will block the wind and take longer for your laundry to dry.

Always bring clothes in at the end of the day. This helps the fabric last longer, prevents fading and saves clothes from night deposits by birds and other critters.

Also, do not leave clothes pins on the line, as they can cause black marks which can be transferred to your clothing.

Every once in a while run a clean rag over your line to clean it off.

Now you’re ready to enjoy the benefits of line-dried clothing – lower electric bills, fresh, clean smelling clothes and time outdoors. Amazingly enough, hanging laundry on a line is very therapeutic. The simplicity of it seems to calm the mind and quiet the soul, even if it is for just a few minutes each week.

To purchase laundry and clothesline equipment as well as other useful homesteading supplies check out Lehmans.com and Verrmontcountrystore.com.

photo credit: kamoda

Just for fun see how many you already know then make plans to learn a few new ones in 2013!

1. to use a chainsaw safely
√ to grow a vegetables & herbs
√  to sharpen an edged tool – knife, axe, hoe, chisel etc.
√ to use and store firearms safety
√  to tan rabbit skins
6. to read the weather
7. to spin wool, cotton or angora into thread or yarn using a spinning wheel or drop spindle
√ to use long handles tools without hurting your back
√ to light a fire indoors or outdoors
√ to buy at an auction without paying too much

√ to mend clothes
√ to butcher rabbits or chickens
√ to hang clothes on a clothesline
√ to operate & maintain a tiller
15. the unique traits of different trees & their types of wood
√ to cook from scratch
17. to pasteurize milk
√ to conserve & save water
√ to recognize healthy plants & animals versus unhealthy

√ basic sewing skills
√ to ear tag or tattoo an animal
√ to tell an animal’s age by its teeth
23. to replace a broken window
√ to drive a stick shift

25. Learn how to thaw out frozen pipes without busting them

√ to graft a fruit tree
27. to hand thresh & winnow wheat or oats & other small grains
28. to train a working cattle or sheep dog
29. to read the moon and stars
√ to make cheese
√ to live within your means
√ to catch, clean & fillet a fish

33. to use a wash tub, hand-wringer and washboard
√ to make soap or detergent

√ to build a bunk planter
√ to can canning & preserve food
√ to save seeds
√ to de-horn livestock
√ basic leather work or repair
√ to plan for the future – orchard, livestock program, or energy sources
√ to repair with duct tape, baling twine or whatever is on hand
√ to read an almanac
√ to put down an animal
√ to cook on an open fire
√ entertain yourself without electronic media
√ to shear a sheep, electric & hand
√ to maintain shears
√ to swap, barter and network with like-minded people
√ to make candles
50. to dig & use a shallow well
√ to refinish furniture
52. to drive a draft animal
√  to realistically deal with life, death and failure
√ to use & maintain an oil lamp
√ to treat livestock injuries
√ to restrain large livestock
√  to use a sewing machine
√ to give an IM or Sub-Q injection
√ to properly use hand tools
√ to recognize your own physical and mental limits
√ how and when to prune grapes and fruit trees
√ to hatch out eggs
63. to use a scythe
64. to skin a furred animal & stretch the skin
65. to tell the time of day by the sun
√ to milk a goat, sheep or cow
√ to stomach tube a newborn animal
√  to butcher large livestock
√ to use a wood stove & to bank a fire
√ to make butter
71. to knit or crochet
√ to make & use a hot bed or cold frame
√ to deliver a piglet, calf, lamb or goat
74. to know when winter is over
√ to plant a tree
√ to brood day-old chicks
77. to dye yarn or cloth from plants
√ to haggle like a horse trader
√ to bake bread from scratch
80. to use a pressure tank garden sprayer
√ to halter break a horse, cow, sheep or goat
√ to graft baby animals onto a foster-mother
83. to weave cloth
√ to grow kitchen herbs
√ to make sausage
√ to set and bait traps for unwanted vermin and predators
√ to grind wheat into flour
88. to make paper and ink
89. to learn when it is more economical to buy ready-made or make it yourself
√ to castrate large livestock
√ to choose a location for a vegetable garden or orchard
92. to weave a basket
93. to use electric netting or fencing
√ to make fire starters

95. to use a pressure cooker
96. to correctly attach 3 point hitch implements to a tractor
√ to trim hooves of goats or sheep
√ to sew a quilt
99. to make wine or beer
√ basic plumbing & electrical
√ to shoot a rifle & handgun

73 down

28 to go!

Not bad. Not bad at all!!

In my neck of the woods, February and March are prime garden readiness months. Fruit trees are pruned, berries are trimmed of dead canes and tied to trellises or fencing, raised beds are restocked with compost or built brand new. But, the most fun of this time of year is starting seeds. We mark the day on our calendars and when it arrives the task begins like the start of an Olympic race.

There’s truly nothing better than plunging your hands deep into freshly dug soil, warmed by the spring sun and planting homegrown seedlings started way back in winter, when spring was just a hope and a dream. And, the money you save over buying already started veggies and the vibrant taste of homegrown food ain’t bad either.

This is also the time when garden centers and hardware stores stock a plethora of seed starting paraphernalia: peat pots, soil pellets, plastic pots, covered mini-greenhouses, you name it, if it can start a seed, some store in your area will carry it.

But, do you really need all this fancy commercial stuff to start the seeds you want to plant in your garden. The answer is no! Seeds are not divas. They don’t require 5-star accommodations to germinate and thrive. What they do require is the right kind of starter/growing medium, the right amount of moisture, warm temperatures and room to produce a strong healthy root system.

Planting containers can be as simple as recycled yoghurt, sour cream or cottage cheese containers, or the bottom of milk cartons with holes punched in the bottom for drainage. An oddball collection of 2, 3 or 4-inch clay and plastic pots, or left over pony packs and planting trays will also serve well as starter pots. The main point is to give the seeds you’re planting a fighting chance at thriving.

I do however, like to use peat pots for veggies that don’t like their roots disturbed too much during transplanting, mainly because roots can grow through them as the pot decays in the soil. And, peat pellets, those little rock hard soil disks that expand when soaked in water, are great for tiny herb seeds that can get lost or wash away in larger containers. But, seeds started in peat pellets need to be transplanted into larger pots as soon as they emerge from the soil.

Newspaper pots are surprisingly strong if you don’t handle them too much and are an inexpensive way to start a variety of seeds. You can buy a newspaper pot press, but that costs money, about $20. You can use a piece of round dowel or other round object that is about an 1-1/2 to 2-inches in diameter and make your own for nothing. Toilet paper or paper towel rolls can also be used if you cut them to the right length, and cut and fold one end to hold in the soil.

Of all the ways I’ve started seeds over the years, 4-inch pots, either plastic or clay, are my favorite. Friends and family save them for me when they buy plants from the nursery. And, I’ve even been known to ask a commercial gardener or two when I see them planting seasonal color around office buildings or shopping malls. The pots are big enough to keep most seedlings in until they are transplant size and ready to go out into the garden. They can hold any size seeds, from small tomato seeds to large pumpkin and squash.

When I’ve finished with them, I rinse them out in a light bleach solution (2 tbsp to 5 gallons of water), to kill any bacteria, and store them away until next season.

If you plan on starting your own seeds this season try these tips for success and watch your garden flourish this year.

• Use a coarse planting mix instead of potting soil; it holds too much moisture which can rot seeds before they geminate. To mix your own: use equal parts potting soil or very well composted compost, peat moss, and perlite, with a small amount of vermiculite. To mix it easily, fill a 5-gallon bucket about ¾ full and snap on the lid then roll it around a while so ingredients can blend thoroughly.
• Use heat mats, or a heating pad to warm the soil faster. Warm soil mimics the onset of spring and encourages seeds to germinate. When I plant my seeds, I place the containers on a metal tray then set the tray on the heating pad. The heat conducts easily and no moisture can harm the heating pad.
• When seeds emerge from the soil, give them plenty of light so they don’t get too leggy (long, weak stems). If this happens, gently run your hand over the tops of the seedlings a few times a day or place a fan, on low, several feet away and let it blow across the seedlings. The motion makes the stems strong. A south facing window works great, or you can use grow lights.
• If weather permits, put seedling outside to get some direct sun. Keep extending the length of time so they become acclimated to outdoor weather. This will help when you plant them out in the garden. I set mine under a tree to give seedlings dappled light. Cold frames also work great.
• Protect seedlings from the cold by bringing them in at night or covering them with row cloth. If your winters are not too severe, a simple greenhouse built over a raised bed will work fine. Check out our In The Garden section.
• Keep an eye out for creepy crawlies that will go after your tender seedlings. If you see them pick them off by hand or put your seedlings out of their way.

Oh – one last thing…don’t forget to label your pots, folks! There’s nothing more frustrating than getting ready to plant your garden and not knowing that each pot contains.

Today’s grocery store chickens are hybridized to be exactly the same as all the other grocery store chickens. They are bred to grow the same, finish out the same and be similar in weight. This fast-growing breed is called a Cornish Rock Cross. Typically, they range in age from 4-weeks, for a Cornish Game Hen, to 8 to 10 weeks for a full grown roaster. The chickens are the same; only their name has been changed, taking labels given to chickens from days gone by.

So, if you’re thinking that a Cornish Game hen is not a Cornish Game hen at all, but rather a baby Cornish Rock Cross, you’d be right. Cornish Game hens are not raised commercially any longer because they take too long to grow to a marketable weight.

Modern grocery store chickens also have white feathers and were developed in the 1980’s to gain weight fast on a limited amount of feed. It is true that some birds grow so fast that they sometimes have heart attacks or break down in their legs before ever reaching a butcherable weight. But, I think that is a factor in commercially raised birds more than homestead or small farm raised birds. Some growers even limit the feeding schedule to slow down the birds’ growth.

And, what about those white feathers? Well—the average consumer wants a pretty carcass to make a pretty roasted chicken to put on her family’s dinner table. Non-white feathered chickens can have black spots in the skin where the pin feathers broke off during plucking. This happens to white chickens too; only the consumer can’t see them because they are white.

Heritage chickens on the other hand are breeds that were historically raised on farms before the commercial breed was developed. There are many different breeds of heritage chickens that come in many different sizes. Traditionally, breeds were chosen for their ability to thrive in the area of the country you lived in. White chickens were not popular because they stood out to predators, while natural colored birds would blend in to their surroundings. The comb size and heartiness of the chicken was also taken into consideration when selecting a breed. Chickens with flat combs were favored by people in the north because their combs wouldn’t freeze and break off, while breeds that did well in warmer climates were favored in the southern states and in the west.

Breeds that made the best layers were not traditionally used for meat production because their carcasses were scrawny. Conversely, chickens that made good meat birds were not used as layers because of their terrible egg production. The most popular chickens were those that were considered “dual-purpose”—breeds that could provide a good egg production as well as a good Sunday dinner.

In days of old, chicken production went something like this…a rooster would breed a hen, who would in turn lay a clutch of eggs. The hen would set the eggs until they hatched, producing 6 to 8 live chicks. Assuming predators didn’t snatch a few chicks they would grow up. As the chickens grew some would show themselves as roosters, who would then be butchered. A few roosters might be kept longer, until they reached roasting size. But, the outcome of the rooster was mostly the same—slaughter to oven to table.

Hens on the other hand were kept as replacement layers for those past their prime in egg production; at which point they too would be butchered and used for stocks and stews or chicken and dumplings. I bet if you ask your grandma or your great grandma she will swear that “old chickens” make the best broth. “Old chickens” were also cooked slowly over a low heat, and then the meat was pulled off the bone to make casseroles and salads.

So, what’s the debate?

It’s still the same.

Are heritage breeds or commercial breeds better?

My answer… it all depends on your goal.

As a small homesteader trying to manage my resources on a limited amount of ground, I prefer the Cornish Rock Cross. Mainly because I can grow 25 chicks to 2 to 3 pounds with one 50 pound bag of feed in just a few weeks. If I want a 6 to 8 pound roasting size bird it may take me 2 to 3 bags of feed and a few more weeks.

A heritage breed will take much longer and eat a lot more feed to reach the same weight. Skin color, black spots where pin feathers use to be, and carcass have very little to do with it, at least for me. I want to be able to raise a year’s worth of meat in as reasonable amount of time as possible because my growing spaces have to be used for other animals.

It’s as simple as that.

Although my birds are not pasture raised they do have the run of the barn and outside pen area, giving them lots of light and fresh air. In all the years we’ve raised meat chickens, only one has died; a pretty good outcome I think.
As for meat quality…every bird we have raised on our farm has been plump, juicy and full of flavor, especially when cooked with our favorite white wine and garlic recipe. The same can’t be said for a grocery store chicken.
For me the bottom line is…raising good quality, healthy meat that is free from chemical additives or growth hormones and processed in a humane manner. So, the breed becomes a matter of choice, not a matter of quality.

Oh, and those old girls who are past their prime…they spend a few days on the crockpot before becoming the base for chicken soup and chicken and noodles. Grandma would be proud.

photo credit: UGArdener

It’s shocking to think that 50 million people, many of them children, go hungry every day. It’s even more shocking when you learn that almost ¼ of food produced in America goes to waste.

From the Directors of FOOD, Inc., Kristi Jacobson and Lori Silverbush examine the food insecurity issue through the lens of three people who are struggling to feed their families—a single Philadelphia mother who grew up in poverty and is trying to provide a better life for her two kids; Rosie, a Colorado fifth-grader who often has to depend on friends and neighbors to feed her and has trouble concentrating in school; and Tremonica, a Mississippi second-grader whose asthma and health issues are exacerbated by the largely empty calories her hardworking mother can afford.

Woven together with the insights of experts, A Place at the Table will show how hunger poses serious economic, social and cultural implications for our nation, and how it could be solved once and for all, if the American public decides-as they have in the past-that making healthy food available and affordable is in the best interest of us all.

As farmers, gardeners, homesteaders and foodies of all kinds we know all too well how simple changes can improve a family’s food security and self-sufficiency.

I hope you will take time to watch this must see documentary…and then decide how you can be helpful in your community.

Our flock of chickens grew this week. Four new arrivals, 2 Welsummer and 2 Blue Wyandotte pullets were added to the coop. I hadn’t really planned on adding more hens this early, but when I realized some of my girls were getting on in years, slowing down their egg production, and my friend and chicken breeder Larry had 3-month old’s in the breeds I was thinking about, the plan sped up by a few months.

I’ve never really been interested in the plain production breeds like Leghorns, Barred Rocks or Rhode Island Reds. I want hens that are colorful, not only in their feathers, but also in their eggs. I already have Americana’s that lay blue-green eggs, and Black Cochin’s and New Hampshire’s that lay light brown eggs. The only thing missing was a breed that lays the dark chocolate brown eggs, like those Cadbury chocolates wrapped in shiny gold paper.

There are only two breeds that lay such dark brown eggs—Marans and Welsummer’s. Marans tend to be a little pricey for egg layers and relatively hard to come by, but Welsummer’s are more common. They are a Dutch breed…a combination of several breeds really. But, over time they have been refined and standardized by poultry breeders who took a fancy to them as soon as they were imported. Through selective breeding they have become a nice temperate addition to farm flocks, and the dark brown eggs they lay are an added bonus.

(Welsummer hens)

The Blue Wyandotte is a variety of the Wyandotte breed, meaning they are a “color” of the breed. Wyandotte’s come in a several different colors from golden and silver laced, to white, black and buff. There are even Columbian, partridge and silver penciled giving any poultry lover a wide range of colors and feather patterns to choose from.

Wyandotte’s are an American breed used for both egg production and meat. Although I like them for their solid medium brown eggs, I also think they are just what a chicken should be…plump, fluffy and fun to watch scratching in the garden.

(Blue Wyandotte Hen)

Right now they are housed in six foot long wire caged that was used when we raised meat rabbits. The cage will keep them safe at this young age, away from circling hawks and feral cats, and allow the other chickens to get use to new additions. Although I don’t think Sophia (our goose) is to keen on the idea of more chickens in the coop.

So…in a few months the flock will add a wonderful dark brown color to my daily collection of farm fresh eggs.

Breakfast can’t get any better than that!