Seashells and Sunflowers | Necochea, Argentina

Linguistic Camouflage: Learning to Blend In

2012-05-08T19:10:00.001-03:00

Over the past several years, I've worked hard to perfect my Argentine Spanish. I've learned a fair bit of the lingo and tried my best to adopt the cadence and accent of an Argentine from the province of Buenos Aires (after all, there are many accents in Argentina!). I'm far from perfect, but I usually manage to fool native speakers for at least a minute or two. Even once they've realized I'm foreign (usually because of those pesky American r's), they have a hard time believing that I learned to speak Spanish as well as I do without having been born in Argentina or having Argentine parents.

This hilarious video (it's subtitled, by the way, so even you non-Spanish speakers can enjoy it) by an American reenacts a typical first-time exchange with an Argentine. It cracked me up because I swear I've had the exact same conversation with people here.

[Click here if you can't view the embedded video.]

Can you fool a native speaker with your accent?

Foul Language in the Argentine Workplace

2012-04-24T10:35:00.001-03:00

[Note: The following post contains foul language written in Spanish. If such things offend you, please visit this post with pretty pictures instead.]

Memo from an American Company to its Argentine Staff

It has been brought to our attention by several officials visiting our office in Buenos Aires that offensive language is commonly used by our Spanish-speaking staff. Such behavior, in addition to violating our policy, is highly unprofessional and offensive to both visitors and staff.

All personnel will immediately adhere to the following rules:

1. Words like "carajo," "la puta madre," "me da en el quinto forro" and other such expressions will not be tolerated or used for emphasis or dramatic effect, no matter how heated a discussion may become.

2. You will not say "la cagó" when someone makes a mistake, or "lo están cagando a pedos" if you see someone being reprimanded, or "qué cagada" when a major mistake has been made. All forms and derivations of the verb "cagar" are utterly inappropriate and unacceptable in our environment.

3. No project manager, section head or administrator under any circumstances will be referred to as "hijo de mil putas," "mal parido," "es una mierda" or "es una bosta."

4. Lack of determination will not be referred to as "falta de huevos" nor will persons who lack initiative be referred to as "cagón de mierda," "pelotudo" or "boludo."

5. Unusual or creative ideas offered by management are not to be referred to as "pajas mentales" or "pendejadas."

6. Do not say "cómo hincha las pelotas" nor "qué ladilla de mierda" if a person is persistent; do not add "cagó fuego," if a colleague is going through a difficult situation. Furthermore, you must not say "cagamos" (refer to item #2) nor "nos rompieron el orto" when a matter becomes excessively complicated.

7. When asking someone to leave you alone, you must not say "andate a la concha de tu hermana" nor should you ever substitute "May I help you?" with "¿Qué mierda querés?"

8. Under no circumstances should you ever call your elderly industrial partners "viejos chotos."

9. Do not say "me chupa un huevo" when a relevant project is presented to you, nor should you ever answer "sobame el nabo" when your assistance is required.

10.You should never call a partner "puto de mierda" or "vieja tortillera"; the sexual behavior of our staff is not to be discussed in terms such as "viejo trolo," "la mira con cariño" or "mariquita."

11. Last but not least, after reading this note, please don't say "me la paso por las pelotas." Just keep it clean and dispose of it properly.

Thank you.

[Source: Text extracted from the BANewcomers' mailing list. Author unknown. // Photo credit: miss mass]

Argentina iPhone Apps Worth Checking Out

2012-04-19T10:26:00.001-03:00

I still enjoy thumbing through the paper editions of travel guides, but there's no doubt that technology has ushered in a new era of trip planning and research. Travel-focused apps often provide access to in-depth information about places that traditional guidebooks barely even mention, and without the constraints of traditional publishing, they can be updated on a more frequent basis as well. You can carry around the equivalent of hundreds of paper guidebooks right there on your lightweight mobile device, another distinct advantage of going digital, especially if you're visiting multiple cities and/or countries. Lastly, the accessible price points of these mobile applications make them hard to resist!

But like everything else, not all apps are created equal. So, today I'd like to recommend a pair of quality, Argentina-related apps, both of which I have personally tested on my iPod touch. These apps function on the iPhone, iPod touch or iPad.

Recoleta Cemetery by Endless Mile
Author: Robert Wright
Price: $5.99

Recoleta Cemetery contains more than just a collection of ornate mausoleums; it contains the history of a nation. "Thanks to its occupants and their eternal sense of style," the cemetery figures prominently on the list of Buenos Aires' must-see attractions. With Endless Mile's Recoleta Cemetery app, you're free to tour the cemetery and take it all in at your own pace.

Truthfully, I can't imagine anyone other than Robert Wright authoring an app about the cemetery. I've been following Robert's blog Afterlife—the definitive English-language resource for information about Recoleta Cemetery—for years now, and his attention to detail, enviable research skills and passion for history have always impressed me. He's managed to condense the wealth of information accumulated in his blog into a slick, well-organized app highlighting the 25 most interesting mausoleums plus the meaning of common funerary symbols and a general overview of the cemetery.

A virtual map leads you through the cemetery to the tombs of some of Argentina's elite. At each point on the route you gain insight into Recoleta's incredible architecture, historical figures and urban legends through text presented with beautiful photos and illustrations. Fans of Evita, the cemetery's most famous resident, will even find a section of the app dedicated to her.

While I fully recommend the mobile app, Robert packs even more information into his 22-page Recoleta Cemetery PDF guide ($9.95). I suggest this option for those with unlimited time to explore and an intense interest in the cemetery's history, since the PDF guide details information about 70 different tombs. The PDF is also the way to go if you'd prefer to print out the guide to carry with you or if you don't own an Apple device.

Argentina Travel Adventures by Sutro Media
Author: Wayne Bernhardson
Price: $2.99

As the man behind the blog Southern Cone Travel and author of Moon Handbooks for Argentina, Buenos Aires and Patagonia, Wayne Bernhardson is eminently qualified to tackle Argentina "from the top to the tip, the city to the campo." The writing featured in the Argentina Travel Adventures app truly reflects Wayne's years of travel experience and knowledge. In addition to information about major attractions, the app offers practical information and cultural tidbits touching upon food, transportation, culture, and health and safety.

The app includes a number of attractive photos, most of which were provided by the author. They look good on the iPod touch, but I imagine they really shine on the larger display of the iPad. An interactive map with markers allows you to visualize each of the recommended spots, and you're able to conveniently filter results by category. You can even ask the author questions or suggest additional information about an attraction. How's that for interactivity?

The app is useful and well-designed, but it only scratches the surface, providing a brief overview of Argentina's most popular destinations. Each entry gives you just enough information to pique your interest. If you're looking to explore second-tier cities or locations off the beaten path, I'd consider a different resource; however, for first-time visitors or those sticking to the main tourist circuit, I think Argentina Travel Adventures more than fits the bill.

Have you tried either of these apps? Can you recommend other useful Argentina-focused apps?

Disclosure: Although Robert Wright and Wayne Bernhardson both provided complimentary downloads of their apps, the opinions expressed here are strictly my own.

[Photo credit: Tony Buser]

7 Super Shots: Adventures in Argentina

2012-04-14T15:50:00.001-03:00

Lucky number 7 is at it again! Last year, I unearthed a few special posts for the My 7 Links challenge. This time, I'm taking part in the HostelBookers 7 Super Shots game to showcase some of my favorite photographs. I'm happy to find an excuse to share these photos from the archives, especially since a couple date to my pre-blogging days.

I dusted off these seven photos—all from my adventures in Argentina—for your consideration:

[1] A photo that…takes my breath away

[The Modesta Victoria docked at the entrance to the Bosque de Arrayanes, Patagonia]

Offering amazing vistas at every turn, the region of Patagonia in southern Argentina is, without a doubt, one of the most breathtaking places I've ever visited. On my most recent trip to Bariloche, I snapped this photo of the historic vessel Modesta Victoria, with the Andes Mountains rising majestically in the background. [View large]

[2] A photo that…makes me laugh or smile

[Near the beach in Necochea]

Daniel and I are driving along the coastal road just south of Necochea one evening when we happen upon this paisano riding toward us along a dusty trail. Daniel stops the car, and I politely ask the man if I may take his picture, trying to contain my excitement. Had he merely paused and allowed me to take his photo, I would have been content; however, with true gaucho flourish he signals to his horse to paw the ground, creating a swirl of dust about him. After I click the shutter, Daniel and I erupt in applause and thanks, and the gaucho continues along that same dirt path. [View large]

[3] A photo that…makes me dream

[Golden afternoon light reflected off the Río Quequén, Necochea]

I've seen the river near my home at all times of day and in all conditions, yet I find nothing more enchanting than the late afternoon when the sun's rays light up the pampas grass and lend a golden hue to the water. [View large]

[4] A photo that…makes me think

[Plaza del Congreso, Buenos Aires]

Privileged lawmakers sit inside the Argentine Congress located just steps away from where this man, down on his luck, sleeps on a park bench. [View large]

[5] A photo that…makes my mouth water

[Plaza Dardo Rocha, Necochea]

Each year, the city government of my adopted home of Necochea organizes an enormous asado (Argentine barbecue) in the main square to celebrate the anniversary of the founding of the city. Chorizo sausages, huge slabs of beef and cross-cut ribs, and whole pigs are splayed out on large iron crosses, where they're left to cook for hours by a wood fire under the watchful eye of the asadores (barbecue pit masters). The meaty smokiness of the asado permeates your hair, your clothes, everything—but just one bite of that Argentine beef makes it all worthwhile. [View large]

[6] A photo that…tells a story

[Plaza Dardo Rocha, Necochea]

These two pit masters take a break for a round of mate and a smoke while minding the sizzling barbecue. They're sitting atop the massive pile of firewood needed to keep an enormous asado fueled for hours on end. [View large]

[7] A photo that…I am most proud of (aka my worthy of National Geographic shot)

[View from Cerro Campanario, Bariloche]

A few years ago, National Geographic selected the view from Cerro Campanario in Bariloche, Patagonia as one of the top 10 most scenic views in the world. I'd say it's pretty damn stunning. [View large]

So now I'm passing the torch to five other bloggers in the hopes that they too will post their 7 Super Shots. For rules and guidelines, click here.

Gabriel at Live from Waterloo
Ana at Ana Travels
Aledys at From Argentina to the Netherlands, For Love!
The Thorny Rose at La Gringa
Elizabeth at Fotos Eli

Butternut Squash and Ricotta Gnocchi, Two Ways | Ñoquis de Zapallo y Ricota, Servido de Dos Maneras

2012-03-28T10:02:00.001-03:00

We're celebrating one of Argentina's most beloved Italian imports, gnocchi! At their most basic, gnocchi take the form of small dumplings made from potato and flour, but with a bit of imagination, you can transform any number of ingredients into gnocchi. Add a luscious sauce of your choosing, and you've got one satisfying meal.

Last year, my blogging pals and I joined forces to spread the love about alfajores. This time, at the initiative of Aledys Ver at From Argentina to the Netherlands, For Love!, we decided to team up again to tackle gnocchi. At the bottom of my post, you'll find links to visit everyone's recipes. Follow the gnocchi trail and decide which recipe tempts you most!

Ñoquis del 29

Whether in neighborhood restaurants or at home, Argentines typically enjoy a heaping plate of gnocchi (ñoquis in Spanish) on the 29^th of each month. The Gnocchi Day tradition supposedly came about because these cheap and filling potato dumplings were the only food struggling Italian immigrants could afford come the end of the month, just before payday. In the hopes of attracting prosperity and good luck, a one peso coin was placed under diners' plates while eating; however, these days, with inflation running rampant in Argentina, we've resorted to $2 or $5-peso bills.

[San Martín's eyeballin' my gnocchi. I guess even independence heroes have to eat.]

Humorously, government workers in Argentina have also been given the nickname "ñoquis." Elected officials frequently placed friends and family in positions within local government, but these ghost employees never put in an honest day's work. Nonetheless, they would show up like clockwork at the end of the month (around the 29^th) to collect their pay, and as a result, civil servants came to be known as ñoquis.

Tips and Tricks for Preparing Gnocchi

Cooks and food bloggers routinely employ the phrase "little pillows" to describe perfect gnocchi. They should be light in texture and actually taste of potato, squash, spinach, beets—or whatever other ingredient you've chosen as your base—rather than flour. I've eaten my fair share of gummy, tasteless gnocchi, even at restaurants, which goes to show that for a dish with a relatively short list of ingredients, gnocchi can be a challenge to prepare well.

[Daniel's grandmother shaping classic potato gnocchi with a gnocchi board]

And so I set about my first solo attempt at making gnocchi, a combination of butternut squash and potato, determined to achieve the ethereal, much sought-after pillows. Let's just say that the results of round one could only be described as little pillows if I tacked on "filled with lead bricks." Although my family ate the gnocchi with gusto (they're not the most discerning lot) at our weekly Sunday get-together, I was disappointed in my dumplings. They were floury. They were tough. And boy, were they heavy. I swear they were still doing somersaults in my stomach four hours later.

My initial failure prompted me to read up on the ins and outs of gnocchi, and I came away with this sage advice.

The Enemies of Good Gnocchi

» Moisture: The wetter your ingredients, the more flour you'll have to add to the dough. And too much flour leads to heavy gnocchi [trust me on this one]. Baking, rather than boiling, your squash or what have you helps on this front.

» Warmth: Warm squash/potato/etc. will require more flour to form a workable dough, so let your ingredients cool sufficiently. Later in the process, chilling the formed dough also cuts down on the stickiness and makes it easier to handle.

» Over-handling: The dough needs a gentle touch. If you overmix it, you'll wind up with tough gnocchi.

[Light-as-a-feather butternut squash gnocchi]

Determined not to let a few lumps of dough get the better of me, I prepared to do battle once again, this time working off a different recipe that swapped out the potato and incorporated ricotta instead. The results were sublime—tender, pillowy (!), flavorful gnocchi. I chose to use butternut squash, but feel free to experiment with other types of pumpkin or winter squash. I've included two different recipes for sauces, a walnut cream sauce and a butter sage sauce. They're equally lovely with the gnocchi, so choose whichever appeals most to you (or try both!).

Butternut Squash and Ricotta Gnocchi | Ñoquis de Zapallo y Ricota
Adapted from a recipe by Biba Caggiano
Yields 4 servings

Ingredients
1 medium butternut squash
vegetable oil, for brushing squash
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 c. whole-milk ricotta, drained
¾ c. grated parmesan cheese
1 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
2 tsp. kosher salt, plus 1 Tbsp. for boiling gnocchi
1 1/3 to 1 2/3 c. all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

Directions
Preheat oven to 375°F. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Lightly brush each half with vegetable oil, and place cut side down on a baking sheet. Roast the squash until tender, about 1 hour. Let cool slightly and scoop out the flesh, discarding the skin. Puree the squash until smooth in a food processor. If the squash puree seems watery, transfer to a saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until liquid evaporates and puree thickens. Measure 2 packed cups squash puree, and chill in the refrigerator.

In a large bowl, mix the squash, egg, ricotta, parmesan, nutmeg and 2 teaspoons salt with a wooden spoon. Gradually fold in 1 1/3 cups flour, taking care not to overwork the dough. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface, and, using your hands, gently knead the dough, adding up to 1/3 cup more flour if the dough sticks too much to your hands and to the work surface. Lightly sprinkle the dough with flour, and place in a bowl. Cover the bowl with a dishtowel, and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.

To form gnocchi, tear off a piece of dough about the size of your fist, returning the remaining dough to the refrigerator while you work. Flour your hands and the work surface lightly. Using a gentle back-and-forth motion, roll out the piece of dough into a rope about the thickness of your pointer finger. Cut the rope into 1-inch pieces. Using a floured gnocchi board or a fork, lightly press with your thumb and roll the gnocchi to form ridges. Repeat with the remaining dough until all the gnocchi have been formed. Transfer gnocchi to a lightly floured baking sheet, keeping them in a single layer. Chill the gnocchi in the refrigerator while you boil the pot of water.

Bring a large pot of water and 1 Tbsp. of salt to a boil. Add the gnocchi in batches, and cook until they float to the surface. Let cook for an extra 30 seconds, and then remove them from the pot with a slotted spoon. Drain off any excess water, and add the gnocchi to the sauce of your choice.

Walnut Cream Sauce

Ingredients
4 Tbsp. butter
1 c. chopped walnuts
2 cloves garlic, crushed
½ c. heavy cream
¼ c. grated parmesan cheese
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Directions
While waiting for the water to come to a boil, melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the walnuts and sauté 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the garlic and sauté 1 minute, until fragrant. Add the cream and stir to combine. Simmer for a few minutes, just until sauce slightly thickens. Transfer the gnocchi to the pan with the sauce, and season with parmesan, salt and pepper; toss to coat. Serve immediately.

Sage Butter Sauce
Adapted from a recipe by Biba Caggiano

Ingredients
4 Tbsp. butter
10 fresh sage leaves, chiffonade
1/3 c. grated parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Directions
While the gnocchi cook, melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Once the butter foams, add sage, and stir 1 minute. Transfer the gnocchi to the pan with the sauce, and season with parmesan, salt and pepper; toss to coat. Serve immediately.

Follow the Gnocchi Trail!
Arugula Gnocchi with Tomato Sauce a la Ana from Ana at Ana Travels
Roasted Beet Malfatti from Meag at A Domestic Disturbance
Gnocchi alla Romana from Aledys at From Argentina to the Netherlands, For Love!
Ñoquis de Espinaca [link in Spanish] from Paula at Bee My Chef
Potato and Ricotta Gnocchi from Rebecca at From Argentina With Love

The Artwork of F. Molina Campos

2012-03-23T15:19:00.001-03:00

My introduction to the work of Florencio Molina Campos came in the form of a dishtowel, of all things. One day, while digging through a drawer filled with linens in Daniel's grandmother's kitchen, I happened upon a cotton cloth adorned with the image of a gaucho aboard a wild-eyed mount. The artist's unique style made an immediate impression upon me, and I vowed to find out more about the man whose name I saw emblazoned in the corner of the image.

Florencio Molina Campos (1891-1959)

Born into a well-to-do family from the city of Buenos Aires, Florencio Molina Campos could have easily adopted the lifestyle and interests of a city slicker, yet it seems that his experiences out in the Argentine countryside ultimately shaped the course of the artist's life. Although his family's primary residence was located in the capital, Molina Campos spent a great deal of time on his father's estancia (ranch) in the province of Buenos Aires. Some years later, the family moved full-time to an estancia in Entre Ríos. A keen observer of rural life from early boyhood, Molina Campos went on to record the details of faces, clothing, animals, and landscapes in his artwork. Even the descriptive titles of his works imitate the speech patterns of Argentina's paisanos.

His whimsical, caricature-style portrayals of gauchos, horses and other elements of life out in the country, rendered in his unmistakable style, earned him fame both within Argentina and abroad.

Some of Molina Campos' paintings of gauchos and assorted country folk may seem quite comical and, perhaps, even jeering, but the truth is that the artist regarded the gauchos with great fondness. Concerning Molina Campos' view of his subjects, respected Argentine art critic Cayetano Córdova Iturburu noted: "The unexpected was that the artist viewed the gaucho as the gaucho saw himself. He wasn't the poet's gaucho, or the historian's gaucho or the gaucho of the world of fantasy. He identified with them, and saw them through their own eyes, and looked at them with fun and affection."¹

Molina Campos dabbled in watercolors, pastels and oils, but he found that tempera was his preferred medium. For the most part, he painted on paper, cardboard, canvas or wood, but he was even known to use ravioli boxes when other materials were scarce.

As a completely self-taught artist, he did not always stick to conventional wisdom when it came to technique, and his unique style frequently drew criticism from other artists of the period. For example, rather than following the rule of thirds, Molina Campos tended to place the horizon very low on his paintings, lending greater importance to the expansive skies he observed while living on the pampas.

Molina Campos became a household name in the 1930s when he was commissioned by the Fábrica Argentina de Alpargatas, a manufacturer of traditional shoes, to illustrate a company calendar. The calendar made its way into homes and businesses across Argentina, turning Molina Campos into one of the nation's most widely known artists.

On the heels of his success with the artwork for Alpargatas, Molina Campos received a grant to study animation in the United States. He consulted on a series of three films that Walt Disney was working on at the time. Although Molina Campos eventually severed his professional ties to Disney—he disagreed with Disney's portrayal of gauchos and traditional life in Argentina—the two remained friends for a number of years. Once Molina Campos quit the project, Disney decided to combine the three movies into one, an animated film known as Saludos Amigos. [Watch an entertaining clip of El Gaucho Goofy from the film.]

Molina Campos' work was exhibited at museums throughout the United States and featured in American publications including National Geographic, Saturday Evening Post, Time and Life. He was even hired by the American company Minneapolis Moline Power Implement Co., a manufacturer of farming equipment, to create a calendar similar to the one he illustrated for Alpargatas. He agreed to take the job on one condition—that he could feature his beloved gauchos and country folk.

Molina Campos' paintings and illustrations continue to enjoy popularity, and today he's considered one of Argentina's great folk artists. The authors of Culture and Customs of Argentina sum up Molina Campos' contributions like so: " [he] achieved in painting what such authors as José Hernández (1834-1886), Benito Lynch (1880-1951) and Ricardo Güiraldes (1886-1927) accomplished in literature: the transformation of the figure of the rogue gaucho into a positive national symbol and a hallmark of Argentine identity."²

And most importantly, let's not forget that his work makes for some truly special dishtowels.

* * * * *

If you're interested, you can view the official catalogue of Molina Campos' works online at the Fundación Molina Campos website. Should you find yourself in Argentina, you can see Molina Campos' works up close and personal at one of two museums, both located in the province of Buenos Aires. The Museo Molina Campos de Areco, inaugurated in 2009, showcases 65 works, personal objects, photos, and books from the collection of Octavio Caraballo. The museum in Moreno, featuring more than 100 of the artist's works, recently reopened after a long-term restoration effort.

Museo Molina Campos de Areco
Moreno 279, San Antonio de Areco, Buenos Aires
Open Friday, Saturday, Sunday and holidays from 10am-8pm, $20 peso entrance fee

Museo Florencio Molina Campos
Calle Molina Campos (ex Güemes) y Avenida Victorica, Moreno, Buenos Aires
Open Saturday and Sunday from 12pm-6pm

On Being Fat in Argentina

2012-03-08T18:17:00.001-03:00

Compared to the United States, shopping for clothes in Argentina is a breeze. In fact, most of the time, I don't even have to leave my house. I'd like to attribute this phenomenon to an increase in the number of online clothing retailers doing business in Argentina or a team of fabulous personal shoppers who've got my style down to a T and do all the hard work for me. But the truth is that shopping here feels so effortless because I just don't bother—I'm not going to find something that fits anyway.

It's tremendously difficult for me to find stylish clothes that fit me here in Argentina. I am 5'7" (170 cm), and I wear a U.S. size 18/20 (ARG size 48/50) or XXL (ARG size 5). Even when I'm lucky enough to find a skirt or top in my size, it often looks more like something my grandmother would wear rather than a vibrant woman in her early thirties. In fact, I'm pretty sure I've seen my grandmother sporting more stylish duds than the dowdy get-ups recommended to me in some of the stores here.

Many shops try to skirt the size issue by offering clothing in the dreaded one-size fits all. I'm hear to tell you that it doesn't, and no amount of coaxing or cajoling on the part of the sales assistant is going to make a too-tight garment look good.

In the three years I've lived in Argentina, I have bought exactly three pieces of clothing here. And it hasn't been for lack of trying. I've never been a clotheshorse, but I can assure you that in my previous life, I purchased more than one item of clothing per year. Let's just say that it's a good thing I like accessories, or else I'd never spend a centavo in the stores here.

Sharon Haywood, director of AnyBody Argentina, a non-profit organization dedicated to changing negative cultural attitudes about women's bodies, related her Argentine shopping experiences in a recent article:

Last year when I was searching for a wedding dress, all I had to do was observe the saleswoman's reaction when she looked my way and I knew that I wasn't going to find anything. Almost always, I heard the same worn-out phrase, "We don't carry your size."¹

If I hadn't read Sharon's name in the article's byline, I would have sworn I'd written that statement myself. It mirrors exactly what I encountered last year when searching for a dress for my own wedding. The dismissive attitude of shopkeepers and saleswomen and lack of options transformed what should have been a fun, exciting shopping experience into a nightmare.

What's most disturbing to me is not necessarily that I have a hard time finding clothes that fit me, but that normal, healthy weight women can't find clothes that fit them either. According to a survey performed by AnyBody Argentina, about 65% of the Argentine women interviewed stated that they've had difficulty finding fashionable clothing in their size.²

Slaves to Image
According to a 2010 study by the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, Argentina ranks among the top 25 countries in the world for the number of cosmetic procedures performed, with liposuction far and away the most frequently chosen procedure.³In fact, many health insurance plans here provide coverage for one cosmetic surgery procedure per year.

While many Argentine women opt for plastic surgery in the quest for a more perfect body, thousands more succumb to eating disorders as they strive to meet a near-impossible standard of beauty. Figures on eating disorders in this country are scarce, but the most recent data from a poll conducted by Argentina's Association for the Fight Against Anorexia and Bulimia (ALUBA) indicated that 1 in 10 teenage girls between the ages of 14 and 18 suffer from an eating disorder. It's also estimated that the prevalence of eating disorders in Argentina is three times higher than in the United States.⁴

High rates of plastic surgery and eating disorders suggest that Argentine women feel extreme societal pressure to be thin and attractive, no matter what the cost.

Dr. Mabel Bello, executive director of ALUBA, frames the Argentine obsession with beauty in the following manner: "We are slaves to image. Appearances are more important than who a person is. We have to look a certain way, be a certain person. This is our cultural imperative."⁵

Ley de Talles // Size Law
Back in November, I bought a cardigan—one of the three pieces from the sacred trilogy of Argentine purchases—from a shop here in Necochea. It's owned by a stout, red-haired woman who obviously understands that the entire universe does not wear a size small. She stocks a variety of sizes [up to ARG size 9] in styles that I'd actually consider wearing. Sadly, her shop is an anomaly.

* * * * *

In December 2005, a Buenos Aires provincial law known as the Ley de Talles took effect, mandating that all clothing stores offer an assortment of sizes from 38 to 48 (U.S. 8 to 18). In addition, the law looks for the clothing industry to standardize sizes, as sizing here varies wildly from one brand to another. A similar law was passed by the City of Buenos Aires in late 2009. Shop owners who fail to comply with the law face fines of up to $10,000 pesos and closure, while clothing manufacturers and importers face fines ranging from $15,000 to $50,000 pesos.

Clothing manufacturers and shops have opposed the law since its inception, and given the lax enforcement of fines, the reality is that most within the clothing industry pay little heed to the Ley de Talles. In fact, compliance with the law is estimated at less than 25%.⁶

According to Haywood, noncompliance centers around three separate issues: heavy resistance from the industry; corruption in the form of bribes to inspectors; and the fact that Argentines have completely bought into the "cult of the body."⁷

Obesity in Argentina
Argentines are quick to point out the obesity problem in the U.S., but what may surprise you is that Argentina doesn't trail far behind.

According to the report World Health Statistics 2011 from the World Health Organization (WHO), 31% of women and 27.4% of men in Argentina aged 20 years or older qualify as obese [based on 2008 figures]. The rates of obesity in the United States for those aged 20 or older are higher, but not by much, coming in at 33.2% of American women and 30.2% of men [based on 2008 figures].⁸

It appears that despite Argentina's societal obsession with being thin and beautiful, its citizens are losing the war against obesity. Although the same can be said of the U.S., in the last couple of decades, retailers have begun to recognize the trend and have finally started to accommodate the ever-expanding American waistline by offering a broader range of sizes. But as previously discussed, the vast majority of Argentine businesses have turned a blind eye to the needs of larger and even average-sized customers.

Given such abysmal rates of compliance with the Ley de Talles, the situation for Argentine consumers appears rather grim. However, AnyBody has launched a campaign to recognize Argentine clothing brands and shops that respect the diversity of the female form. Retailers that strive for compliance with the Ley de Talles are rewarded with a decal that can be found in their display windows, allowing shoppers to easily identify women-friendly businesses.

The women of Argentina, and indeed, of the world, still have a long way to go on many fronts. In the meantime, while we're working on the bigger issues, is it too much to ask that retailers stock clothes that actually fit?

[Photo credit: HA! Designs]

Resources

¹ "Yes, We Carry Your Size," AnyBody
² "Yes, We Carry Your Size," AnyBody
³ISAPS International Survey on Aesthetic/Cosmetic Procedures Performed in 2010, International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery [PDF]
⁴ Eating Disorders 101 Guide: A Summary of Issues, Statistics and Resources, Renfrew Center Foundation for Eating Disorders [Word doc]
⁵ Battling the Beauty Myth in Argentina, AnyBody
⁶ Any-Body in Argentina: Seeking Size Law Compliance, Endangered Species Women
⁷ Battling the Beauty Myth in Argentina, AnyBody
⁸ World Health Statistics 2011, World Health Organization

Surreal Video of Buenos Aires

2012-02-20T18:00:00.001-03:00

Life in Argentina often feels like a roller coaster ride. Whether or not the director intended to include this subtle metaphor in his short film, these classic scenes of Buenos Aires with a mind-bending twist will leave you breathless, just like a true heart-stopping amusement ride should.

[Click here if you can't view the embedded video.]

Adventure and Extreme Sports in Necochea and Quequén

2012-02-09T01:26:00.001-03:00

With access to the sea, a major river, an extensive pine forest, and undulating dunes, Necochea and neighboring Quequén offer tons of exciting activities for visitors with a taste for adventure.

If you're itching to do more than just work on your tan while visiting the area, check out the following companies and organizations dedicated to adventure sports/extreme sports in Necochea and Quequén. Please keep in mind that many of these outfits are small operations without their own websites or year-round locations. Most are active only in high-season [late December through February]. Details such as phone numbers may change without notice.

Surfing/Bodyboarding
Quequén Surf Club at Monte Pasubio Surf Camp
Calle 502 Nº 1160 (at intersection of Calle 529), Quequén
Phone: (02262) 45-1482 // (02262) 15 56-7110 [Monte Pasubio]
Phone: (02262) 49-3114 [Quequén Surf Club]

Classes and equipment rental, Friday-Sunday: 8 am-8 pm

Rafting/Kayaking (River and Sea)
Mundo Bonito
Phone: (02262) 15 65-8998 / (02262) 15 61-3910

Kayak rental at Cabañas Río Quequén
Calle 22 and Ribera, Necochea
Phone: (02262) 42-8068

Surf Kayaking
Escuela de Kayak-surf
Av. 2 and Calle 71, Necochea

Sailing
Agrupación Náutica "Vito Dumas"
Calle 550 and Ribera Río, Quequén
Phone: (02262) 42-6550

La Botera at Club del Valle
Calle 66 and Ruta 86, Necochea
Phone: (02262) 43-0400 / (02262) 15 49-5513

ATV Rental
Motomanía
Av. 10 and 91, Necochea
Phone: (02262) 15 63-7942

Fourtrax
Av. 10 Nº 4788, Necochea
Phone: (02262) 42-1150 / (02262) 15 50-9966

4x4 Excursions
Necotata
Phone: (02262) 15 47-7106

Travesía Sport
Balneario Tarsis, Av. 2 and Calle 83, Necochea
Phone: (02262) 15 49-4916 / (02262) 15 55-3393

Jeep Tours to Médano Blanco
Parador Médano Blanco, Av. 2 and Pino del Japón, Necochea
Phone: (02262) 15 63-9545 / (02262) 15 56-8931

Bike Rental
Stop Bicicletas
Av. 79 and 10, Necochea
Phone: (02262) 52-1616

Surrey Bike/Bike Rental
Av. 10 and Av. Pinolandia, Necochea

Scuba Diving
Centro de Buceo "Azul Profundo"
Av. 79 Nº 316, Necochea
Phone: (02262) 52-8641

Paradiso Escuela de Buceo
Calle 32 Nº 4976, Necochea
Phone: (02262) 42-9133 / (02262) 15 51-7301

Horseback Riding
Av. 10 and Av. de los Eucaliptos, Parque Miguel Lillo, Necochea

In addition to the activities mentioned above, opportunities exist in Necochea and Quequén to participate in windsurfing, kitesurfing, motorized paragliding, parasailing, jet skiing, banana boat rides, waterskiing, canoeing, and sandboarding. Many of the balnearios [beach clubs] along Avenida 2 in Necochea can help you book these activities, or you can visit one of the tourist information offices for more details.

Tourist Information Offices (ENTUR - Ente de Necochea de Turismo)
» ENTUR's Main Office at the Casino Complex, Av. 2 and 91, Necochea
» Av. 79 and 2, Necochea
» Bus Terminal, Av. Jesuita Cardiel [Ruta 86] and Av. 58, Necochea
» Calles 502 and 519, Plaza 3 de agosto, Quequén

Gaucho Garb Drives the Chinas Wild

2012-01-31T17:07:00.001-03:00

Just as the image of the ruggedly-handsome cowboy of the American West has inspired many a fantasy among women, Argentina's gauchos have been known to make more than one china (lady gaucho) swoon. Apart from dashing good looks and a fine steed, the gaucho's appeal lies in the details of the typical dress associated with these men of the pampa. Get the low-down on the essential elements of gaucho garb with this tongue-in-cheek guide to gaucho chic. Personally, I'm a sucker for a jaunty gaucho beret.

[Credit: Image text written by Amanda Barnes, Wine Republic, used with author's permission]

Feria de las Colectividades: Food, Frivolity and Funny Hats

2012-01-27T18:19:00.001-03:00

The Feria de las Colectividades, Necochea's annual multicultural festival, celebrates the various immigrant groups that have helped shape our city. The three-day festival takes place at the end of January in Parque Miguel Lillo and features stands serving up the gastronomic specialties of each ethnic group, as well as music and dance troupes wearing traditional costumes. The event culminates with a pageant and the crowning of the festival queen.

The following ethnic groups participated in this year's festival: Italians [plus the regions of Basilicata, Calabria and Le Marche], French, Danes, Germans, Spaniards [plus the regions of Andalusia and the Basque Country], Arabs and Greeks. For some reason, the Chileans decided to stay home this year, but they usually set up (a rather popular) stand at the festival too.

This year marks the fourth time I have attended the Feria de las Colectividades. I enjoy the lively music and colorful dress, although what I particularly relish is the opportunity to sample dishes from the various stands. Honestly, it's one of the only times out of the whole year that I have the chance to eat ethnic food (that is, unless I prepare it myself at home). Necochea could really use some dining options beyond typical Argentine fare…

Festivalgoers can purchase these delicacies and more from the food stands:
Italy: zeppoli, tiramisu, pizza, piadina, ricotta pie, ciambelline, sfrappe, pizzelle
France: blanquette, ratatouille, baguettes, sweet and savory crepes
Denmark: assorted cakes, open-faced sandwiches with various fillings, and aquavit
Germany: sausages, sauerkraut and beer
Spain: tortilla, paella, ham sandwiches, chistorra, pinchos, seafood stew, fried calamari and pork loin
Middle East: kibbe, fatay, shawarma and hummus
Greece: souvlaki, tiropita, baklava, galaktoboureko
Chile: empanadas de pino

Traditional music and dance fill the stage at the Feria de las Colectividades. In addition to local performers, German, Paraguayan, Bolivian, Greek, Russian and Ukrainian folk dance troupes from Olavarría and Buenos Aires entertain the crowd at the festival.

And as the title of the post indicates, you're guaranteed to see a funny hat throughout the course of the night. Tell me, who doesn't enjoy a funny hat or two?

[Last but not least, take a look at this video montage from this year's festival. You can skip to the good stuff by starting at the 0:35-second mark. Please click here if you can't view the embedded video.]

Red Wine and Watermelon: A Deadly Mix?

2012-01-18T23:18:00.001-03:00

Did you know you will die if you drink red wine and eat watermelon together? According to an old wives' tale widely circulated in Argentina, the mix of red wine and watermelon produces a lethal cocktail in your stomach.

While most Argentines who subscribe to this myth are firmly convinced that consuming a bottle of red and a slice of watermelon spells certain death, some believe the combination merely leads to digestive upset. Still others would have you abstain from any type of alcohol if you're in the mood for a refreshing piece of watermelon, lest you be found lifeless the following day. How sad to think that few Argentines have sampled the joys of a drunken watermelon (or perhaps they have but didn't live to tell the tale).

Next, I present the following compelling scientific arguments, gleaned from various trustworthy, academic Spanish-language sources such as Yahoo! Answers Argentina, as to how the combination of red wine and watermelon kills you:

» The combination of the two causes intestinal paralysis.
» Wine chemically boosts the level of the naturally-occurring toxin arsenic in watermelon.
» The wine makes the watermelon harden in the gut, creating a "cork" that blocks digestion.
» The mixture of the two produces some sort of fatal metabolic reaction within the body.

Apparently, no one told Martha Stewart or The New York Times about the deadly mix that occurs when these two substances unite. If you like to live on the edge, sample these recipes featuring the killer combo: Sangria Soup and Watermelon and Red Wine Drink.

If I don't post next week, you'll know why.

Top Baby Names in Buenos Aires for 2011

2012-01-12T00:24:00.001-03:00

The results are in! According to the civil registries in both the city and province of Buenos Aires, Argentina, the following baby names were selected by parents more than any others in the year 2011.

Girls	Boys
1. Isabella	1. Benicio
2. Valentina	2. Benjamín
3. Sofía	3. Bautista
4. Juana	4. Thiago
5. Martina	5. Santino
6. Morena	6. Joaquín
7. Mía	7. Santiago
8. Lola	8. Valentín
9. Alma	9. Nicolás
10. Jazmín	10. Ignacio

Isabella came out of nowhere to oust Sofía, the leading name for girls since 2005, while Benicio took the top spot for boy names, knocking former frontrunner Thiago down to the fourth spot. In terms of overall trends, more parents are opting to give their children just a first name—no middle name—and a preference for short names such as Mía, Lola, and Alma has emerged.

In Necochea, the most popular names for girls were Isabella, Emma, Mía, Renata, Catalina and Lola, while Valentino, Bautista and Benicio were tops for boys. Daniel's cousin helped contribute to the popularity of the name Catalina here in Necochea, as she and her husband chose that name for their baby girl, the newest member of the family born back in September.

The civil registry of each province maintains an official list of approved names, and each year, a few new monikers are tacked on the list. In 2011, the following names were added to the list for the City of Buenos Aires: Zafira, Kaila, Gaetana, Mina, and Narine, for girls, and Akari, Tomassso, Hyun, Diago and Ringo, for boys.

I'm really drawn to the names Benicio (#1) and Joaquín (#6) for a boy, and the names Emma and Renata (#2 and #4, respectively, in Necochea) for a girl sound lovely to my ears.

Which names from the list do you like most?

[Photo credit: limaoscarjuliet]

Did you enjoy this post? If so, then check out the most popular baby names in Buenos Aires for 2010.

2011: Our Life in Pictures

2011-12-31T03:34:00.001-03:00

Presenting a 2011 recap in pictures rather than words...enjoy!

[Please click here if you can't view the embedded video.]

Happy New Year! ¡Feliz Año Nuevo!

¡Felices Fiestas!

2011-12-22T18:24:00.001-03:00

In the early days of my blog, I wrote a post lamenting the fact that I couldn't celebrate Christmas with both my American family and my Argentine one. Three years later, I still haven't succeeded in bringing everyone together at one table, but for the first time, I am blessed to be able to share in an American Christmas celebration with my Argentine hubby at my side.

We're having a ball here with my family, and it's been fun documenting all of Daniel's firsts here in Yanquilandia (first time eating Chinese food, going on a hayride, picking out a real Christmas tree, etc.). I also had the opportunity to meet up with my blogging buddy Norma from Platanos, Mangoes and Me! in New York City, for a wonderful adventure that I promise to write about soon. If you're interested, take a look at my photos (so far) from our trip to Philadelphia and my quick jaunt to NYC.

I'd like to wish all of my readers a very merry Christmas and a happy New Year. May you all have a joyous holiday filled with peace, love and light.

Tuesday the 13th | martes 13

2011-12-13T22:37:00.001-03:00

In the Spanish-speaking world, it's Tuesday—not Friday—the 13th that carries the threat of bad luck. The number 13 has long been linked with misfortune in both the Anglo-Saxon and Hispanic cultures, but how did Tuesday, rather than Friday, come to signify a day of mala suerte?

The combination of unlucky number 13 and Tuesday may have arisen during the Middle Ages, as the city of Constantinople fell to the Muslim Turks on a Tuesday. Christians of the period considered this event to be most inauspicious, and it seems that Tuesday's reputation remained forever stained as a result. Another possible explanation lies in the origins of the Spanish word for Tuesday. Martes stems from the name of the Roman god of war, Mars, and as Tuesday is ruled by this deity, the day became associated with destruction, violence and bloodshed. Lastly, legend holds that the confusion of tongues at the Tower of Babel took place on Tuesday the 13th.

If you're the superstitious type, take heed of the following Spanish proverb that advises against marrying or traveling on Tuesday the 13th.

En martes 13, no te cases ni te embarques.

Has anything unlucky ever happened to you on Tuesday (or Friday) the 13th?

[Photo credit: chrisinplymouth]

Holiday Traditions in Argentina

2011-12-08T14:42:00.001-03:00

The holiday season in Argentina kicks off on December 8 with the Feast of the Immaculate Conception (El Día de la Virgen) and runs straight through to Three Kings' Day (El Día de los Tres Reyes Magos) on January 6. Late-night dinners filled with family, presents under the tree and inside children's shoes, sweltering heat, and even fireworks on Christmas form part of the celebrations. Learn about the Argentine traditions and foods linked to this festive time of year in my article for Hispanic Kitchen.

What are your favorite traditions at this time of year?

[Photo credit: seiho]

Listen to Me on BA Cast

2011-11-29T00:59:00.001-03:00

Dan Karlin, a long-term American expat, and Fernando Farías, an Argentine local, combine forces to produce an entertaining weekly podcast known as The Buenos Aires Podcast, or BA Cast for short. This dynamic duo "attempts to sort out…foreigners' perceptions of Argentina and Argentines, Argentines' perception of themselves, and everything in between." Dan and Fer share a great rapport, and you're virtually guaranteed to learn something new about Argentine culture with each episode. At the very least, you'll get a good laugh.

A few months back, I chatted with Dan and Fer via Skype about my experiences as an expat in Necochea, and now you can tune in to BA Cast, Season 2 Episode 14 for my take on life in Argentina outside the capital. You can listen to the podcast straight from the BA Cast website or download it onto your computer, iPod, etc. Enjoy!

Show Dan and Fer some love. Follow BA Cast on Facebook or Twitter.

Home for the Holidays

2011-11-24T02:34:00.001-03:00

Reflecting on this past year, I must say that 2011 has treated me quite well. I got married to my wonderful husband Daniel; I successfully waded through Argentine bureaucracy to receive my permanent residency and DNI; and now, I have the joy of celebrating Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's with Daniel and my family here in my hometown of Philadelphia.

After 24 hours of travel, we arrived at Philadelphia International Airport last Thursday morning and were promptly whisked away by my dad and his wife. From that moment on, our time has been filled with family, friends, and food, and it feels great to be back in Yanquilandia, even if only for a brief time.

This trip is particularly special because it's Daniel's first visit to the United States. It means so much to me that he finally has the opportunity to get acquainted with the place I grew up, my family, and my culture. I always felt that there was a piece of me that he would never fully know or understand until he could experience my country firsthand, so it brings me enormous pleasure to have him here with me.

I'm incredibly grateful for all that I've been blessed with this past year. Now excuse me—I've got some turkey, stuffing, cranberries and pumpkin pie to eat. Happy Thanksgiving!

[Photo credit: dracobotanicus]

Past reflections on Thanksgiving

2010 Grateful
2009 Let's Talk Turkey (or Lack Thereof)
2008 Thankful

Argentina Holiday Gift Guide

2011-11-22T23:39:00.001-03:00

Add a bit of Argentine flair to your holiday purchases this year. I've scoped out various suggestions for Argentina-related gifts, with everything from books to bombillas. Which items would you like Papá Noel or the Reyes to bring you?

Books // Libros

» Speechless: A Dictionary of Argentine Gestures by Guido Indij
Gain a greater appreciation and understanding of the vast vocabulary of non-verbal gestures that the Argentines have at their disposal through this entertaining book. [Read my brief review of the book.]

» Che Boludo! A Gringo's Guide to the Argentines by James Bracken
Sling Argentine slang with the best of them. Learn all you need to know with this amusing guide to the local jargon.

» El libro de oro de la argentinidad [in Spanish] by Federico Scagliotti
Chock-full of random facts about Argentine history, culture, food, sports and more, this book makes for great bathroom reading [sorry, but it's true!].

» Happy Tango: Sallycat's Guide to Dancing in Buenos Aires by Sally Blake
Happy Tango is an essential guide for anyone looking to find positive tango experiences in the milongas of Buenos Aires. [Read my review of the book.]

» Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way by Francis Mallmann and Peter Kaminsky
Written by Francis Mallmann, one of Argentina's best known chefs, this cookbook invites you to learn the secrets of Argentine asado.

» Vino Argentino: An Insider's Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of Argentina by Laura Catena
In this book filled with lush photography, Laura Catena provides an intimate look at Argentina's wine regions and the history and personalities behind the country's wine industry.

» SaltShaker Spanish-English Food & Wine Dictionary by Dan Perlman
Tallarines, milanesas, locro...what does it all mean? The SaltShaker Food & Wine Dictionary will help you navigate Argentine menus with ease.

Learn Spanish // Aprender castellano

Looking for a sassy, unconventional and entertaining way to learn Spanish? Try General Linguistics' Spanish-language learning program Bueno, entonces.... The program is geared toward expats and travelers in South America, with pronunciation by native speakers and a focus on the slang and grammatical nuances particular to Argentina.

Food // Comidas

Amigofoods.com stocks an impressive selection of authentic, imported Argentine foods including chimichurri, queso provoleta parrillero, various brands of alfajores and yerba mate, Mantecol, and Gancia [the product for export is known as Livenza].

Amazon offers up your favorite Argentine foods, including dulce de leche, yerba mate, mate cocido, Balcarce alfajores, dulce de membrillo, and Argentine cheeses such as reggianito and sardo. You can also find mate gourds and bombillas on Amazon.

Music // Música

» Revancha Del Tango by Gotan Project
A sexy and hypnotic blend of tango and electronica, check out this album for a taste of something decidedly different. [Similar bands: Bajofondo Tango Club, San Telmo Lounge]

» Carlos Gardel: Sus 40 tangos más famosos Argentina's best known tango crooner, Carlos Gardel's good looks and smooth baritone voice rocketed him to popularity at the beginning of the 20th century. More than 75 years after his death, Gardel remains an icon of the tango both here in Argentina and abroad. [Similar artists: Roberto Goyaneche, Julio Sosa]

» Los Fabulosos Cadillacs
A fun mix of rock, ska, punk, reggae and Latin rhythms, tunes by Los Fabulosos Cadillacs will get you moving your groove thing. [Similar bands: Patricio Rey y Sus Redonditos de Ricota, Charly García, Soda Stereo]

» Mercedes Sosa: 30 Años
The music of Mercedes Sosa, one of Argentina's and, indeed, Latin America's most celebrated folk singers, overflows with emotion that translates into any language. Sosa's moving rendition of Gracias a la vida and the haunting melody Alfonsina y el mar are two of my favorite tracks from this album. [Similar artists: Chaqueño Palavicino, Soledad]

» Rough Guide to the Music of ArgentinaThis album spans a number of styles, from tango to chamamé to chacarera, and serves as a great introduction to uniquely Argentine folk music and tango.

Take a look at this list for additional suggestions of great Argentine music.

Movies // Películas

» The Motorcycle Diaries [Diarios de motocicleta]
Follow the life-changing journey of the young Ernesto "Che" Guevara as he explores South America on the back of his motorcycle. [I also enjoyed the soundtrack to this movie.]

» The Secret in Their Eyes [El secreto de sus ojos]
The Academy-award winning film The Secret in Their Eyes tells the story of "a retired legal counselor [who] writes a novel hoping to find closure for one of his past unresolved homicide cases and for his unreciprocated love with his superior—both of which still haunt him decades later." [synopsis by IMDb]

» Nine Queens [Nueve reinas]
"This sly 2000 caper weaves a tangled story of deceit and con games, with intriguing plot twists. It was nominated for 28 awards in Latin America, the United States and Europe and won 21 of them." [synopsis by Latin Flyer]

» The Official Story [La historia oficial]"This heartbreaking drama—winner of best foreign film in 1985—is about a woman in Buenos Aires who slowly comes to realize that the child that she and her husband adopted was a victim of the…so-called Dirty War of the 1970s." [synopsis by Latin Flyer]

» Intimate Stories [Historias mínimas]"This wonderful little gem of a road movie follows three characters as they travel…the vast, flat plains of Patagonia in southern Argentina to the port town of San Julián. Made almost entirely with nonprofessional actors, the film is a picaresque sequence of moments in the lives of simple people being their quirky selves…. If you like little movies about everyday life in its lighter, comic moments, you'll enjoy this one." [review on Amazon]

Wine // Vino

Anuva Wines offers a hand-picked selection of artisanal wines from Argentina, including the famed malbec and torrontés. These small-batch wines are direct-shipped to the customer in the United States from Argentina. Purchase individual bottles or a wine-club membership for your favorite oenophile.

Traditional Crafts //Artesanías

El Boyero Artesanías Argentinas specializes in unique gift items from Argentina including fancy mate gourds with silver or alpaca details, bombillas, silver jewelry, fine leatherwork including belts, wallets, and handbags [including unusual and beautiful carpincho leather], leather boots and shoes, wine accessories, and gaucho accessories such as knives and braided rawhide leather.

Miscellaneous // Otros

» Do you have a huge soccer [call it football, if you must] fan in your life? If so, consider purchasing an Argentine national team soccer jersey.

» Pamper your skin with beauty products made with rosa mosqueta [rose hips] from Patagonia.

Note: Many, but not all, of the links in this post are affiliate links, and I will earn a small commission if you click on them and purchase an item. Thank you for supporting this blog!

Bathing Regulations — Mar del Plata, Argentina [1888]

2011-11-08T11:29:00.001-03:00

With beach season just around the corner for those of us here in the southern hemisphere, I thought I'd remind you all of the behavior expected of respectable ladies and gents while enjoying a little fun in the sun (never mind that the rules date to the 19^th century!). The following excerpt was translated from the Spanish-language book El libro de oro de la argentinidad by Federico Scagliotti.

Bathing Regulations — Mar del Plata, Argentina [1888]

Article 1 - Nude bathing is prohibited.

Article 2 – Only bathing costumes that cover the body from the neck to the knee are permitted under these regulations.

Article 3 – At Playa del Puerto, Playa de la Iglesia and Playa de la Gruta, men may not bathe together with women, unless they do so accompanied by their families.

Article 4 - Single men are prohibited from approaching women while they are bathing and must maintain a distance of at least 30 meters.

Article 5 - The use of opera glasses or other binoculars is prohibited during bathing hours, as well as situating oneself at the edge of the water while women are bathing.

Article 6 - The bathing of animals at beaches designated for families is prohibited.

Article 7 - The use of lewd or indecorous language or behavior is also prohibited.

Article 8 - Those persons in violation of the preceding ordinances shall incur a fine of two to five pesos or detention for 24 to 48 hours. A repeat offense shall result in a fine of five to ten pesos or detention for 48 to 96 hours. In the event of a third offense, violators shall be banned from the beach for one month.

Click here or here for vintage photos of folks enjoying the summertime in Mar del Plata.

The Faro Quequén Turns 90

2011-11-01T19:22:00.001-03:00

In honor of the Faro Quequén's 90^th birthday, I thought I'd offer a photographic tribute to one of the most recognizable and beloved symbols of our coastal community.

A slew of shipwrecks off the coast of Necochea and Quequén in the 1800s prompted the construction of a lighthouse to assist ships navigating the waters near the Port of Quequén. Inaugurated on Nov. 1, 1921, the 111.5 ft.- (34 m) tall Faro Quequén was built of reinforced concrete by the firm Dyckerhoff y Widmann. The lighthouse's 400W beam is visible at a distance of up to 28 mi. (45 km), serving as a beacon for the thousands of ships that pass by every year.

After climbing the 163 steps of the Faro Quequén's spiral staircase, visitors are treated to an aerial view of the port, the expansive beaches of Necochea and Quequén, and even the shipwrecked Pesuarsa II, one of the most photographed sights in the area (in addition to the lighthouse, of course).

[The first of many climbs to the top of the lighthouse]

[The beach in Quequén with the lighthouse in the distance]

[Faro Quequén under a full moon]

Faro Quequén | Quequén Lighthouse
Calle 541 to 700, Quequén, Province of Buenos Aires, Argentina
Open Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, 8am-12pm and 4pm-7pm
Admission: Free

Alfonsina and The Sea

2011-10-25T10:10:00.001-03:00

All too often, we lose special people before their time. Such is the tragic story of Alfonsina Storni.

Born in Switzerland in 1892, Alfonsina moved with her parents and siblings to Argentina when she was four years old. She endured a difficult childhood, marked by her father's alcoholism and subsequent death as well as her family's precarious financial situation, which forced her to leave school to go to work at the age of ten.

In spite of her troubled upbringing, she later found success as an educator and author. Alfonsina Storni's prose, plays, and poetry—much of which focused on feminist themes—received literary awards and critical acclaim, and she's considered one of Latin America's most respected female poets of the 20th century.

Haunted by demons throughout her life, Alfonsina was frequently wracked by bouts of depression, paranoia and anxiety. After unsuccessfully battling a diagnosis of breast cancer and losing several close friends to suicide, she fell into a deep, intractable depression.

Alfonsina wrote her final poem Voy a dormir ("I'm Going to Sleep") just a few days before her death. In the early hours of October 25, 1938, Alfonsina threw herself from the jetty at the Club Argentino de Mujeres in Mar del Plata, meeting her end in the waters of the Atlantic; however, many prefer to believe that Alfonsina calmly walked out into the embrace of the sea, slowly disappearing into its depths.

In 1969, Ariel Ramírez—one of Argentina's greatest composers of folk music—wrote the song Alfonsina y el mar as an homage to Alfonsina Storni. Inspired by images from her last work, lyricist Félix Luna's words beautifully evoke the ill-fated poet's suicide through touching and evocative metaphors. This moving tribute to Alfonsina never fails to give me goose bumps, especially when sung by the incomparable Mercedes Sosa.

[Click here if you're unable to view the embedded video of Alfonsina y el mar]

Alfonsina and The Sea
By Ariel Ramírez and Félix Luna [original Spanish lyrics]
English translation by Jean Peccei

From the soft sand lapped by the sea,
Your little footprint will never come back.
A path full of pain and suffering
Reaches the deep water;
A path of silent grief
Leads to the waves.

Only God knows what anguish you had,
What ancient pains silenced your voice.
Lying down, lulled by the song
Of the conch shells,
The songs that the conchs sing
In the dark depths of the sea.

Alfonsina, you have left with your loneliness.
What new poems are you seeking?
An ancient voice of the wind and the sea
Breaks off your soul and carries it away.
And you follow, as in your dreams,
Asleep, Alfonsina, clothed with the sea.

Five little mermaids will take you
Along paths of seaweed and coral,
And phosphorescent sea horses
Will swim around you.
And the creatures of the water
Will soon play at your side.

Dim the lamp a little more for me.
Let me sleep in peace.
And if he calls, don't tell him that I'm here.
Tell him that Alfonsina will not return.
And if he calls, don't ever tell him that I'm here—
Say that I have gone.

[Photo credit: Martín Gardeazabal]

Foods of Argentina: Vizcacha (Viscacha)

2011-10-19T21:55:00.001-03:00

With a thud, Tío Roberto plunked down a large glass jar before me filled with hunks of meat, onion, carrot, parsley, bay leaf and garlic suspended in a cloudy bath of vinegar. He unscrewed the jar's red plastic lid and invited me to fish out a piece of meat and some vegetables.

The jar, I was told, contained homemade vizcacha en escabeche or pickled viscacha. After trying to determine the mystery meat's identity through an elaborate game of 20 Questions with my husband's family, I still couldn't form a solid mental image of this critter. Ultimately, I decided to do what any open-minded foodie would: eat first and google later. The viscacha's meat was tender, lean and white with no trace of gaminess. Whatever it was that I'd just eaten, it tasted decidedly delicious.

As it turns out, the plains viscacha (spelled vizcacha in Spanish) is a rodent and member of the chinchilla family native to South America. At home on the range here in Argentina, viscachas live together in groups of up to 50 in a system of burrows known as a vizcachera.

Viscachas are primarily nocturnal animals, beginning their period of activity in late afternoon. The group's dominant male pops out of the vizcachera first to check for predators, and if all is well, the rest of the colony follows.

The viscacha is prone to some rather curious habits, which include hoarding sticks, small bones, wire and other objects at the entrances to the vizcachera. In a nod to the animal's propensity for collecting trinkets and baubles, people who do the same are sometimes referred to as vizcachas.

For a number of reasons, Argentine farmers and cattle ranchers consider viscachas an agricultural pest. They strip the ground surrounding the vizcachera bare, leaving little to nothing for grazing animals to munch on. Viscachas also have quite a taste for vegetables and grains, causing significant damage to farmers' crops. In addition, their burrows present a hazard for horses or cattle that may accidentally step in the holes. As a result, the government strongly encourages hunting as a method of population control.

According to Daniel's family, the flavor of the animal's meat depends a lot on its diet, and given that the vizcacha is an herbivore, its meat retains a "clean" (i.e. non-gamey) flavor. Honestly, I found the taste and texture of viscacha to be quite enjoyable, and I wouldn't hesitate to sample it again in the future.

Vizcacha en escabeche [photo] is usually enjoyed at room temperature as part of a picada—a selection of meats, cheeses and other finger foods. If you're in Argentina and looking to try the dish, shops with a selection of specialty foods often carry pickled viscacha. In the country's Cuyo region, viscacha marinated in a mixture of garlic, parsley, onion, wine and spices and roasted in the oven or on the grill [photo] makes the occasional appearance.

Have you ever dined on rodent, viscacha or otherwise?

[Photo credits: Daniel Fox/The Wild Image Project, Edwin E. Harvey and Ostrosky]

I Love a Parade

2011-10-14T17:40:00.001-03:00

October 12^th marked the 130^th anniversary of the founding of Necochea. Along with my chorus, Coro Alta Mira, I participated in the city's parade to celebrate this special date. This year, inclement weather forced the cancellation or postponement of a number of events, but fortunately, this colorful and chaotic display of civic pride went off without a hitch. Most of these photos were snapped before the parade got underway.

[Majorettes preparing to strut their stuff]

[Kids participating in a murga, a street dance troupe backed by percussion]

[Coro Alta Mira with our flags and banner for the Coraliada, the multi-day, international choral event that we organize annually in Necochea]

[Several colectividades (ethnic clubs and organizations) were represented including the Basques (left) and the Calabrians (right).]

And last but not least, it wouldn't be a parade without some gauchos!