My friend Duff sent me a link to this gizmag article from 2005. It’s a few years old now so some of you may have already seen it but I just had to re-post it. It’s a truly amazing hunk of machinery! Here’s the excerpt from the original article, see the bottom of the post for the link back to gizmag.

If you’re tired of anemic, one-lung snowblowers with their slipping drive belts, you might consider Kai Grundt’s V8 snow blower which raises the bar on the traditional snow blower in every respect. With electric start, electric block heater, antifreeze heater and eight cylinders, it has no drive belts to freeze up and you’ll never get bored with the job as the 454 cubic inch big block Chevrolet V8 produces 412 horsepower, 430 foot pounds of torque and can throw snow 50 feet at just 3500 rpm. Nor will you get cold as the machine has been ingeniously designed to route the engine coolant through the handle bars, with the rear mounted, enclosed radiator keeping the operator nice and cosy.

The first point to make is that this is not a V8 grafted on a traditional snow blower carriage but a purpose-built unit crafted around a motor of this magnitude. It functions very much like a traditional blower by way of operator input and feedback and offers effortless safe operation.

Manouevering the massive beastie (it has a total wet weight of 912lbs) is a snack thanks to the hydraulic-drive 4WD skid steer on independent walking beams which offers a zero turning radius. It’s also as fast as you like, with an infinitely adjustable speed range on the drive wheels via dash mounted flow control. At the opposite end of the scale, it has more than enough torque to pull your car out of the ditch before the hydraulic motors stall!

Adding to the well-balanced feel of the unit, just 15 pounds of down force on the handlebars will lift the auger blade off the ground in order to climb stairs/walkways for ease of snow removal. Safety has and continues to be paramount with spring return to centre “fail safe” type directional controls with emergency stop and tether cords.

Safety is one of the key theme, with a flashing blue light (as required by law in many areas) being the least of the safety features. No-one will fail to hear you with those twin throaty exhausts, which come standard with 92 decibels at the controls, though if the rhumba of a V8 exhaust is music to your ears, you can obviously go much louder. Evan at the standard baffling, hearing protection is strongly suggested.

The powerful yard machine lights and a dashboard with backlit gauges complete the package to ease the burden of this normally reviled task

The custom 42 inch, two stage auger has a Chevrolet 10 bolt truck differential with spool and a centrifugal auger clutch with shear pin protection, further adding to the image of this “automotive theme blower.” As each unit is cutom-built, optional extras for the snowblower are both diverse and outrageous as the base unit – there is unlimited auger choices from single to multi stage designs and various motor combinations to suit the religious preferences of the customer (Chevy, Dodge Hemi, Ford) and such exotica as a V-10 or a diesel engine or remote starting can be accommodated.

And if, after a while, you feel you’ve outgrown the 400 horses, this particular engine is well catered for in the performance modification area, with Lunati camshaft, Milodon Gear drive, Holley and Edelbrock components to name a few, and there’s always the fuel injection option too, if you feel you need to throw the snow out of the county or ensure your seat in the “neighborhood blower blingster hall of fame.”

Here’s the link to the original gizmag article. Sorry for the off-topic post, but I couldn’t resist.

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by Barry Young

Machines are expensive. Dust is abrasive. Don’t believe me? Go get that old motorcycle helmet that Aunt Beunice gave you for your 16^th birthday after you bought that 125cc Honda Combat Wombat with your paper route money. Yeah, the snazzy lime green one. See all that dust on the face shield? Give it a good rub and telephone me to tell me it didn’t scratch it up.

You keep your calipers and micrometers in a toolbox right? Those baseball cards that Grampa gave you go into his footlocker right? You keep your money in a bank right? So what do you do with your machinery? If you are like ninety nine percent of amateur machinists you let your machinery sit out in the open, unprotected, cold and lonely.

Next time you are using foul language to describe to a friend how your machine wouldn’t hold the tolerance you wanted it to, look back at how you treated the poor machine. You oughta be ashamed. Why would you put the bench grinder where it would spit abrasive particles onto the lathe? You mean you did woodworking in the same room as your metal machines are stored? Don’t you know that wood chips will soak up all the oil on those precision surfaces and make them rub together? The precision of your machinery is based on the wear that occurs to the ways and other sliding surfaces. So when you are done hanging your head, when your lip stops quivering, I will help you pay your penance. Even you can seek forgiveness at the chapel of the recovering machine abuser.

The only way to fix up your Karma is to make covers for your machinery. Yeah, a lathe cozy. This sounds dumb until you think about it. Like “Don’t run with the scissors,” sounded dumb until you either thought about it or found out why people told you that. This is the same, you can learn the easy way through logic or you can poo poo the idea and pay when your machines will no longer do what they should. I finally got sick of waiting for February 30^th which is when my wife said she would finish my equipment covers and asked her to show me how to sew fabric. This she was perfectly willing to do. It was not that hard to learn. We measured the extreme length, width and height of my Atlas horizontal milling machine and she made a sort of toaster cover shaped thing that fit like snot because the mill was not a perfect cube. Scratching my head I thought up a better way. That is what this article is about.

I took a cheap blue tarp and threw it over the mill. Everywhere there was looseness in the tarp got a row of pins. Eventually the tarp fit it snugly. I cut away all the excess tarp and cut nice and even around the base. Voila! We had made a pattern. We took it into the sewing room and laid cotton duck (fabric) down on the floor and laid the “pattern” over it. Dang! The fabric was too narrow. No Problem, We sewed on an extra ten inches and now it was wide enough. We pinned the pattern to the material, traced around it with a Sharpie marker and cut it out. She showed me how to sew the seams  which was WAY easier than I thought. I had her sew (hem) a piece of clothesline around the base of the cover and it was done. Yay! It fit all the curves and odd surfaces of the mill. It literally was a custom made cover.

Next came the Atlas 7-inch shaper. I decided to document the process and do all of it by myself.  Here are photos of the goofy shape that needed a cover

It is an ungainly thing to try to cover.

Under the tarp it looked like an ostrich trying not to be seen.

See that big flap ‘o nonsense hanging off the front? That is the excess we are trying to get rid of. Gathering all the excess material together then pinning it to isolate extra fabric leads to rows of straight pins pinching off whatever you want to get rid of like this.

Once the excess is pinned you can carve away the extra fabric OUTSIDE the pins with scissors leaving you something better looking like this.

Be sure to write on it before you take it off so that the outside is obvious. Otherwise the seams will show and your buddies will laugh even harder at you. When you trim away the bottom of the cover level with the floor it suddenly looks like a machine cover.

Now the pins can come out and you have a pattern. Lay this on the fabric you have chosen. You can see how I had to add material to get the width problem mentioned above solved.

Trace around the pattern and cut out the fabric. Sew up the seams and sew in the cord around the bottom. You now have custom fit machine covers. In this last photo you can see the incognito shaper on the left before the cord is sewn in around the bottom and the incognito milling machine on the right with the cord sewn in. The cord gives the cover a finished appearance so don’t be an idiot and leave it out.

That’s it! If you have a question or you want to leave a comment please click the “Join the forum discussion on this post” link below to log into the forum topic tied to this post.

- Barry

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Here’s a quick tip for you. Organize your small tools with this handy magnetic tool holder.

This was another project that caught my eye while surfing instructables.com, especially since I had just picked up some speakers at a second hand store to use as a mag-base for my dial indicator.

So if you have an hour to kill and some extra speakers laying around …

Just remember not to hang any tools that you don’t want picking up residual magnetism!

The original instructable can be found here, but I’ve included a PDF copy for those who don’t have an instructables.com account. This project was reposted with permission from the original author, klee27x. Thanks Klee!

Material: Aluminum, Steel, and Brass
Units: (in)

If you’re looking for a simple engine to build that runs on compressed air, here’s a nice set of plans for you. Here’s what Rob had to say about his plans:

“This was the semester long project we did in class for Machine Tool Technology at the University of Central Missouri . I would like to hook the engine up to something and do tests.

The base is made out of a 3/4 in thick aluminum and the body and cylinder is mild steel. The flywheel and crank is made out of brass. I used most tools that you would use with metals. Vertical mill, horizontal mill, metal lathe, drill press and grinding machine, thread tap. I even machined the threads on the wrist pin.”

- Rob K.

Here’s a video of the little engine in action:

Thanks for sharing your plans Rob!

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Norman Newguy: In the Beginning

by Barry Young

While perusing You Tube one day you quite by accident come across an intriguing video of a model steam engine whizzing away. Meh! You move on. Something in the back of your noggin keeps reminding you of the video. It just keeps coming back. “Honey!” you yell through the house, “Where was that one video that had that one thing on it on You Tube?”


Yes my friends, it can start just that easily. Nobody with more than six neurons is immune. Just such occurrences can lead otherwise decent, intelligent and family loving people to disregard their families drain their bank accounts and do stupid things they would normally never do. Yes! It is the insidious beast Amateur Machining I am talking about. Only the heinous shutterbug and crack cocaine addiction bite deeper. If you have ever uttered the amateur machining mantra “So THAT’S how they do that”, I am afraid it is far too late for you. You are smitten. You will only level out after losing a family or two and several good jobs. Don’t laugh, I am talking to you.


Let us assume you have decided to take a trip down the slippery slope. There is no talking you out of it and no intervention service exists for amateur machinists. Where to start? Not where you think. Every book says rush out and buy a lathe. Bah! Before you do that lets juggle some numbers, it may be your last chance to see your kids. My divorce started when the wife stubbed her toe on a lathe chuck. I do not know what she was thinking going barefoot in the bedroom but she blamed me nonetheless.


To the numbers.
$800   Lathe
$100 Lumber for lathe bench
$200 Drill press
$500 Minimill
$2000 Measuring tools
$13 Material, one piece, 3 feet long from Home Depot
$56,514.26 Haas CNC Vertical Machining Center


That totals a whopping over 60 thousand dollars to get started. Add to this having to find a new place to live when you get kicked out of the house plus travel costs to see your kids between projects.


For those of you still reading we will now get a bit more serious. I have tried to save those of you I was able to.


A cheap drill press from Harbor Freight is the first thing to buy. Also some crappy drills from same vendor. If after drilling some holes in anything you can lay your hands on you still want to pursue this hobby then you are one of the truly shining examples of machininghood and we can proceed. If the junk drills do not deter you by making you feel the true level of frustration this hobby has to offer then you have the requisite stick-to-it-ive-ness. You are on your way to becoming a steely eyed master of metal. The pure among you will try every belt setting on the drill press. You will use nearly every drill and drill nearly everything that is not nailed down. If you back out now you will not have killed the Roth IRA and your family will welcome you back into their open arms tears in their eyes. If not, then come with me friend as we delve deeper into the world of amateur machining.


Your first major machine purchase MUST be a metal lathe. It is called the prince of machine tools for a reason. NO a wood lathe will not work. NO you cannot convert the drill press into a lathe. NO you do not want a milling machine first. NO you cannot start with a five gallon charcoal foundry and a wheel from a 74 Pinto wagon. That is only for the most pure among us who willingly choose to spend six months of toil and learning to avoid buying a sub $1000 Grizzly lathe. Do not even go there. If you do, you venture forth alone. Get thee to a Grizzly catalog or website or showroom and buy thee a nice machine at a great price and bask in its green glow. This for you is prudent. Be not tempted by old Atlas and South Bend equipment on Craigslist that is for later. Right now you need a machine you can lubricate turn on and enjoy. You needeth not the hassle of restoring an antique. In the beginning you need to cut metal, not shine it. Buy as large a lathe as you can afford. That is THE rule when lathe shopping.


Before the truck shows up with the shiny new appliance, you will have cleared an area of honor for the thing to sit. The area is dry and has good lighting. The little cabinets that come with small lathes are not tall enough and I am a short guy. Soooo. The bench will be built using stout 4X4 legs with 2X6 aprons bolted through the legs (drilled on your HF drill press). Another set of horizontal 2X4 bracing goes around the bottom about 6 inches off the floor to hold the legs steady. On top is a piece of 1 ½ inch flooring plywood from Home Depot. The more skilled craftsmen will let the plywood into the top so the edge does not show.


While waiting for the truck to show up spend as much time as possible with the family. They might just decide to keep you. The big day arrives. The truck shows up. Stop that jumping up and down. Try to act “professional”. Act like this happens all the time and you are bored. Be cool. When the driver asks for your signature say something like “whatever man”. Nobody needs to know that you are bursting inside. Stifle that grin now.  Do not let the driver go until you have opened the box. If any castings are broken you want to inform him BEFORE he leaves. Once the driver leaves you can go into the bathroom and lock the door and jump up and down till you have that out of your system. Regaining your detached persona go and unpack the machine. There are many little packets of fasteners and such. On packages like this the manufacturer hides pieces and parts all over so be careful. One time I had to chase the garbage truck to retrieve a piece of Styrofoam packing that had a follow rest in a little pocket. Check all the packing materials and retain them for at least a week. The manual goes into a file folder in a file cabinet in the house. Make a copy of it for out in the shop. Yes, I know they are almost always available at the manufacturer’s website but the one time you need it the server will be down. Been there. So stop sassing and go make a copy of the manual. Sheesh!


Get a friend or three to help you lift the machine up onto the shiny new bench you built. Bolt it down and finish the assembly of the wonderful thing. Step back, take a look and soak up the aura of this beautiful thing. It will never look this good again. If you want a picture now is the time. After use the paint will be scratched and oil will leave little trails everywhere so get while ya can.


Next time we will move on with leveling, alignment and initial power up of your glorious machine. Meanwhile you can write a letter to your kids.

Barry

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Material: Cast Iron (Castings) and Steel
Units: (in)

This set of vintage plans was loaned to me by a friend who has had them for many (30+) years. The plans are for a “Six Inch Stroke Bench Crank Shaper” from the Pootatuck Corporation of Stratford Connecticut. However, I can’t seem to find any information about them online. The plans are old enough that I believe they are no longer protected under copyright. If this is not the case, please let me know and I will remove them.

Also, if anyone has any information about this shaper, including pictures or videos of a completed version of this shaper, please post them to the forum.

Which reminds me, for those of you who haven’t heard, ProjectsInMetal.com has a new forum! The new forum will allow users to communicate with each other more easily and provides a simple way for visitors to share pictures of their projects, ask and answer questions, etc. The forum is free, so please take a moment to register via the “Forum” tab at the top of the page.

One more thing, it looks as though someone used to supply castings for this shaper. If anyone is still supplying castings, please let us know by posting the information to the forum. If not, this might be a good casting project for the furnace my friend Barry is building. Also, if you’d be interested in buying castings for the shaper, please leave a comment below or on the forum.

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I came across this project several months ago on Instructables.com and I thought it might make a good beginner milling project. The author, Doc Workingday graciously gave me permission to add his project to this site.

It’s a simple project for making a set of clamps that fit an X2 Mini Mill (Sieg / Harbor Freight / Grizzly) and these clamps would make a great first project for anyone who owns an X2 or similar sized mill.

The original instructable can be found here. However, for those of you who don’t have an instructables.com account, I’ve provided a PDF copy of the project instructions as well as the drawing below. Doc also provides SLDDRW and SLDPRT files of the drawing in his instructable for those of you with CAD capabilities.

Thanks again for letting me share this with my readers Doc!

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Sometimes my laziness tries to get in the way of doing things properly. For instance, there have been numerous times where the proper way of approaching a setup would be to turn the piece between centers. For me that means removing my 3 jaw chuck so that I can fit a MT#4 dead center in my spindle.

I don’t know why, but I’ll spend 20 minutes trying to figure out an alternative setup rather than spending 5 minutes removing my 3 jaw chuck.

Then one day at GEARS in Portland someone asked me why I just don’t turn a sacrificial center and use that in my 3 jaw. Great idea!

The principle behind a sacrificial center is simple. It’s a center that can be re-chucked and re-turned to ensure that it’s perfectly centered. Whenever you need to turn between centers you simply chuck the sacrificial center in your 3 jaw chuck, set your compound at 30° (60° included), and shave off a few thousandths to ensure that it’s turning concentric.

It’s simple to build, but since this site is geared toward absolute beginners I’ll include pictures and directions below. The next time you need to turn something between centers, you’ll think twice before removing that chuck!

The Process:

First, find a piece of scrap steel an inch or so in diameter. Turn a shank down to about a half inch in diameter and at least an inch long.

Part off the piece leaving 2 to 3 inches of length on the larger diameter. The longer you make this portion, the more sacrificial cuts you’ll get out of it before you need to make a new center. Flip and re-chuck the parted-off piece.

Set your compound at 30° (60° included) and cut the center to a point in several passes.

You’re done once your center has a nice point to it.

Whenever you need to turn something between centers, re-chuck your sacrificial center, set your compound at 30° (60° included), and remove a few thousandths to ensure that the center is perfectly concentric along the axis of rotation. That’s it!

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I ‘ve wanted to make a set of center drill holders for a long time. No matter what project I was working on, it always seemed like I spent half of my time with a chuck key in my hand swapping out center drills with drill bits. However, the thought of cutting a Morse taper (with no taper attachment) had always seemed daunting. After all, how in the world was I going to accurately cut a taper at 1° 26′ 16″? One degree 26 feet and 16 inches? What? … Just kidding.

Then it occurred to me that I could use my compound to cut a Morse taper since it has plenty of travel. I needed about 4″ of travel to cut a number 3 Morse taper (also known as a MT3, MT#3, or a 3MT). Excited, I set to work.

Here is an image of all the dimensions of a Morse taper (click the image to go to the Wikipedia article on Morse tapers). But you don’t have to calculate a single dimension if you follow my process for creating a Morse taper – it is very simple.

I set things up using a MT3 drill chuck arbor positioned between centers (the center in the 3-jaw chuck is a sacrificial center that I re-cut at 60° to ensure that it was perfectly centered). I didn’t have an extra arbor sitting around, so I removed the arbor from my lathe’s drill chuck and used that.

Using a dial indicator (attached to the compound with a mag base) I adjusted my compound to about 1.5° and began sweeping the indicator from one end to the other, making adjustments as needed until the indicator read zero across the entire length of the taper.

The Picture below is my attempt at a double-exposure to illustrate the process of sweeping back and fourth along the taper.

Make sure that the point of you dial indicator is on the centerline of the part, if it’s high or low you’re taper won’t come out right! Frank Ford built a special dial indicator holder that helps ensure that his indicator is reading exactly from the centerline of a taper. Franks special indicator holder can be found here. If you plan on making a lot of tapers, Franks tool would definately speed up the process and help make it more precise.

Here’s what 1° 26′ 16″ (one degree 26 minutes and 16 seconds) looks like on my compound – pretty precise … right? Which is exactly why it would be impossible to set up this angle using only the graduations on the compound – they’re not nearly precise enough.

Once you’re satisfied that your compound is set at the correct angle you’re ready to start cutting your taper. It’s a good idea to have a way to check the size of your taper occasionally. I used a Morse taper sleeve (4/3) for this purpose. Keep test fitting until the taper fits into the sleeve to the right depth. Be sure it fits far enough into the sleeve so that it can be knocked out with a drift, but not so far in that it bottoms out.

Here’s an image to illustrate how to use a sleeve to check your taper for proper fit. The taper on the top is still too large and doesn’t penetrate the sleeve far enough to be knocked out with a drift. The taper on the bottom has enough of the taper exposed to be knocked out by using a drift in the slot.

Here’s what I mean by using a drift to separate a taper from a sleeve. Get my drift? …

Once you’re satisfied with the size of the taper and the depth of the fit, you can fine tune the angle using layout die (or a Sharpie) and emery cloth. To test the fit draw a line along the taper and slide the sleeve over the taper giving it a few full rotations. The ink will be removed wherever the two tapers make contact.

Here you can see that my taper rubs in the middle more than at the ends, but it’s making contact along about 2 inches of the taper. With a little fine tuning (polishing with fine grit emery cloth reinforced with a flat backing) I should be able to improve the level of contact even further.

You’ll notice that my taper doesn’t have a tang. This is because my tailstock doesn’t have a slot in it so tangs are useless for my lathe – they just get in the way. Feel free to put a tang on your taper if you like.

However, if you decide to forgo the tang, be sure to turn down the first 0.300 so that you’ll have a protective “button” (for lack of a better term) at the end of the taper. This button is intended to absorb any abuse the arbor might experience over it’s lifetime (from being dropped or deformed by a drift). If the taper were to extend all the way to the end, any damage would cause the taper to not seat properly in the tailstock. Here is a picture of a manufactured live center with a black (hardened) protective button on the end.

I decided to cut several blank tapers while I had the angle set up. I’d advise you do the same. You can always think of uses for the tapers later! The long one on the left will be used to make a die holder. The third one from the left will probably become a slitting saw arbor. And the 3 on the right became the center drill holders shown at the very beginning of this article.

This was my first time cutting my own Morse taper, so If I missed anything please leave a comment. I’m sure there are several other methods of accurately cutting a Morse taper, so if you have one, please share your experience!

Update: There have been several comments on this project posted on the Machinist Workshop Forum. Feel free to visit the forum for more information and insight from others.

Update #2: Here’s a picture of the completed Steve Bedair style Die Holder.

It’s actually pretty similar in design to one that you can buy from LittleMachineShop.com. However, the LMS die holder fits smaller dies (13/16 and 1 inch). I made mine so that one end can hold a 1″ die and the other end can hold a 1.5″ die.

Also, the shaft is slightly longer than the sleeve, so you can pop the dies out easily when the set screws are loosened. Here’s a pic of the 1.5″ die being pushed out.

I’ve been thinking about trying my hand at CAD and drawing up a set of plans for the die holder with the dimensions I used. I haven’t seen plans for one anywhere else. If anyone is interested please leave a comment. If there is enough interest I’ll draw them up.

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Just a quick note to let everyone know that the Books page has a new look which makes it much easier to browse titles.

Instead of a long list of titles, the covers are now proudly displayed for each and every book on the list. A simple click takes you to the Amazon summary page for the title clicked.

Also, I’ve removed the Amazon Pop-Up summaries that were frustrating a few visitors.

When you get a second, please take a look.

If you have a book that you’d like to recommend to be added to the list, please leave a comment. Thanks!

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