Precision Nails

My (Twenty) First Year

2013-05-01T20:43:00.000-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, April 2013

Last year, I celebrated my first 20 years as a licensed manicurist. I use the term ”celebrated” deliberately because it signifies my attitude toward the nail industry. Though it seems unlikely after so many years, I’m more passionate and positive about our profession than ever before. There’s much to be excited about: the development of new products, the next generation of nail professionals, renewed interest from media and consumers, changes in licensure/governance, and so on. If I didn’t feel as strongly, it would be time to consider a career change. I have options, certainly, but what other career better suits my disposition and would challenge and reward me as much as being a manicurist and salon owner?

That being said, it’s ultimately wiser to position yourself for more rewards than challenges. I believe that doing what you love should bring joy and prosperity, not problems and hardship. If that sounds unrealistic or selfish, I remind myself that I deserve to enjoy my success. And that’s why, in my (twenty) first year, I’ve chosen to reinvest in my nail career for the next 20 years. In terms of planning and decision-making, it’s like starting over, but with the incredible advantages of loyal clients, respected colleagues, favorite products and the knowledge gained from 20 years worth of experiences.

During my first year in business, I had none of those advantages, except the desire to learn. To expedite learning about nails (choosing products, developing skills, marketing services, managing resources, etc.), I naturally sought advice from others with more experience. I wish the majority of advice was useful, but in practice, it was not. To my disappointment, the technical advice was serviceable at best, but not innovative, efficient or exceptional. And the most common business advice (base your prices on the competition, never turn clients away, give discounts to new clients, schedule according to client demand, etc.) turned out to be the most ridiculous. If I’d followed that, my career wouldn’t have lasted as long because I would’ve failed miserably.

No doubt, some of the harsher lessons of business (tax audits, lawsuits, bad investments, etc.) can be avoided with proper guidance. However, when seeking advice from consultants, educators and mentors, consider the source and be more selective. Don’t assume that someone in a position of authority can provide relevant and accurate information; be informed by researching qualifications and asking valid questions. Not all advice is good, and hearing the same bad advice from multiple sources doesn’t make it any better. The “common” way of doing something may be popular, but not necessarily the best way. As as advice seeker, be willing to pay for information/training/coaching; there should not be any expectation to receive anything for free, any more than someone should be obligated to give it away.

Over the years, I’ve shared my experiences with hundreds of other salon owners, manicurists and students. Some have paid a considerable amount to visit my salon for individualized training, but most have stumbled upon me online, or teaching free technical or business classes at a beauty show. Regardless of the investment, what they do with my suggestions, or anyone else’s, is their business. I don’t have any control over them, and what works for me may not work for everyone. In fact, that’s the excuse I often hear for not trying what I suggest. I couldn’t agree more, but why continue doing what’s not working? That doesn’t make any sense.

Growth and progress make sense to me. “Nothing succeeds like success” (Alexandre Dumas), so I’ll continue to focus on what works. In my case, it’s direct interaction with clients. That’s right; I own and manage a salon, have employees AND provide services. Could it work better? Of course, and that’s what I aspire to - improving my business for the future. Is greatness too much to expect? Perhaps. The next 20 years will not be perfect, but I can’t make any excuses given the tremendous advantages I already have.

Far from being complacent or cautious in my twenty-first year, I’m determined to act more strategically. That’s why everything about my business is subject to consideration. What do I enjoy doing most? What would I like to eliminate? Some changes have already been made. For example, I’ve traveled extensively in years past, attending so many beauty shows and networking events that it actually became tiresome. I never expected to reach that point, but I’m there. Supporting the nail industry is still a priority, but how I participate will be different. Traveling less often gives me time to participate in my immediate community, not to promote my business as much as to satisfy other interests, like volunteering and supporting education and the arts. Relocating my salon is an even bigger change I’m considering. The possibility of moving to a more ideal space is invigorating, and I’ll share more about that process in the future. But for now, I’m content to know that it’s never too late to reinvent yourself and improve your life.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

The Name Game

2013-04-01T17:38:00.000-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, March 2013

“If names be not correct, language is not in accordance with the truth of things.” - Confucius

It’s not uncommon for beauty writers to use social media to request information for their upcoming articles. Writers, particularly those without their own experience as beauty professionals, rely on the knowledge of others, and those that contribute gain exposure from being quoted. I’m not able to respond to every request I receive (my expertise has its limits), but am more likely when I feel strongly about the topic. Assuming that the topic is relevant, the information valid, the article well-written and the quotes accurate, everyone can benefit, most important the readers.

A recent experience with another writer inspired this article; her request was for information about what nail professionals name themselves (nail technician, nail artist, manicurist, etc.) and how that might affect client perceptions. Rather than respond via email, I called the writer, Tracy Morin, and we had a stimulating discussion. I haven’t read Tracy’s finished article, so I don’t know how much, if any, of my information she used. However, for this article, I want to merge that seemingly benign “name” topic with the larger issue of false advertising and misrepresentation.

If that seems like a stretch, let me assure you, it’s not. But for the sake of argument, let’s begin with a more common example of false advertising found in nail salons: the misrepresentation of products and services. How often do consumers believe that they’re wearing gel enhancements when in fact they have traditional liquid and powder acrylics? This happens so frequently that I often find myself explaining my preferred products and how I use them.

I advise consumers that no matter what salon they patronize, they’re entitled to the truth about the products applied to their nails. Salons that falsely advertise any artificial nails as "better than acrylics” reveal how ignorant and gullible they expect consumers to be. For example, consider this description of “diamond nails” advertised by a salon: "They are strong and durable like acrylic, except with less odor. They are applied by brushing a resin glue on to the nails and then dipping the nail in to diamond powder." The powder is not “diamond;” it’s acrylic. Instead of acrylic liquid (ethyl methacrylate), this dip procedure uses an adhesive (cyanoacrylate) with acrylic powder (ethyl and methyl methacrylates).

Other falsely advertised nail services include:

Gel - a layer of gel over liquid and powder acrylic. True gel nails consist entirely of acrylic oligomer gel (acrylates) cured with a UV light; there’s no powder.
Solar - a misleading name for any French-style (pink and white) nails, exploits a brand trademark.
Crystal - a fancy name for clear tips covered with acrylic monomer liquid and clear polymer powder.
Porcelain - clay heated to 1200°F cannot possibly be used for nails, yet this ridiculous name persists.
Shellac - a specific brand of soak-off gel polish, not a procedure. There are literally dozens of brands available.
Medical Pedicures - a pedicure that’s promoted as if it were a medical procedure; manicurists aren’t licensed to practice medicine.

If misleading consumers about products and services is wrong, why do some service providers believe it’s acceptable to mislead about their qualifications and licensing? In a perfect world, consumers wouldn’t have to be concerned about whether their chosen beauty professionals are trained and licensed. After all, that’s the MINIMUM requirement of the law. While license types vary by state, each has a “scope of practice,” which defines what licensees are allowed to do. If someone chooses to limit themselves to specific services within a license type, that’s their choice, but they still need a valid individual license. That is, an unlicensed person cannot legally provide “just pedicures.” Moreover, advanced education doesn’t expand the professional scope of practice, no matter who provides the training/certification, how much time it takes or how much it costs.

California’s Board of Barbering and Cosmetology recently released a statement advising consumers to verify licenses of individuals and salons advertising on the internet. What complicates the verification process is the fact that even licensed individuals and salons advertise with “fake” names. In California where establishment (salon) licenses are specific to a geographic location, a salon could have “Acme Nails” on a valid establishment license, but advertise as “Xanadu Nail Spa.” Try verifying the individual license of Jenna Hipp, the “Green Celebrity Nail Stylist.” If that’s not a fake name, perhaps she has no license?

I refuse to tolerate those who are unlicensed, fraudulent and/or pretentious. In my perfect world, all individuals and salons would be required to advertise with their legal names and license numbers. My California individual license (111051) lists my legal name and license type, “Manicurist” and that’s how I advertise. My scope of practice is no different from any other licensed manicurists in California, regardless of what they name themselves. For the record, my favorite example of false advertising has to be “licensed podiatric nail technician;” there’s no such thing in the state of California.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Nail Color Explosion

2013-03-08T19:32:00.002-08:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, February 2013

Nail color has become a powerful force in the beauty industry. Page through any beauty/fashion/lifestyle magazine or spend any time at all on the internet, and count the number of related advertisements. Some ads focus on the person wearing nail color (celebrities and models), while others focus on the product itself (bottle shots and color swatches on “fake fingers”). Regardless of the quality of the ads and their respective products, this proliferation wouldn’t exist if these products weren’t profitable. Reports of “explosive” growth in the nail color market means we should expect more colors, products and advertising in the future.

As nail professionals, we might consider ourselves more savvy and less vulnerable to advertising, but we’re all consumers, exposed to and influenced by advertising to varying effect. The target audience, primarily female, has not changed, but the line between “consumer/retail” and “professional/salon” has been blurred like never before. Consumers interested in doing their own nails (DIYers) have greater access to “professional” products, and/or they can experience nail color by receiving salon services. Likewise, salons have new services to offer and products to retail. In fact, the renewed interest in nail color has been so powerful that many salon owners credit it, particularly in the form of soak-off gel polish, for their survival during this economic downturn. Rather than complain about DIYers and “professional” brands going retail, they’ve found a way to adapt and profit from this new reality.

Limiting this discussion to professional brands and ignoring stickers/decals (apologies to Dashing Diva, Minx and Sally Hansen) there’s still plenty to talk about. The competition among brands, from Akzentz to Zoya and those in between (Artistic, Barielle, China Glaze, CND, Color Club, Cuccio, Entity, Essie, Gelish, IBD, INM, Jessica, LCN, Le Chat, Light Elegance, NSI, Nubar, OPI, Orly, Young Nails, etc.), gives nail professionals many choices. Granted, the list above includes both traditional polish and gel polish brands, but that’s not even a comprehensive list, and some have literally hundreds of colors. Apparently, there’s something for everyone, with shades ranging from soft and subtle to bold and garish in creams, shimmers, frosts, glitters and matte finishes. And yet, new color collections are introduced for every season, including holiday. It can be expensive to keep pace, and not all colors may be worth the investment.

Speaking from my own 20+ years of experience as a salon owner and manicurist, I credit my continued success to loyal clients, and don’t consider advertising nail products to consumers a threat to my professionalism. I cannot compete with national advertising, and don’t have to because it raises awareness about nail care in general. Indirectly, it draws attention to the services offered at my salon and the products I’ve carefully selected based on performance, availability, pricing, etc. I welcome questions from potential and existing clients about professional services and product selection; it means they care.

While my salon services remain consistent (and do not include soak-off gel polish), the color options do evolve. I have my own preferences, but also understand what my clients prefer. Rather than feel overwhelmed by the choices, I limit myself to a wide selection within a few brands so that the colors complement and contrast with each other. After several months of working with the most recent collection, it’s time for something new. I especially look forward to collection previews and swatching, and can predict which colors will be most popular among my clients. Those colors will make it into my ongoing collection, while unpopular or redundant colors will be eliminated.

The power of color cannot be denied and I don’t need to study color psychology to appreciate that it goes beyond expressing yourself and influencing mood and behavior. The fact is nail color is decorative; it’s not even necessary for the health and safety of nails, and yet it may be one of the primary reasons why clients seek professional nail care. The emotional reaction to color is so personal; we all have our favorites, and while some choose to wear the same color for years, others want variety. As a service provider, it makes me feel good that clients of all ages will get excited about wearing their favorite color, whether an old favorite, a new one, or just new to them.

At this point, it may seem difficult to determine which is greater, the supply or the demand for nail color. How many colors/products do we need, and is there a “saturation point” at which the market cannot possibly absorb another brand? The answers may well be “As many as we can afford,” and “Never!” That’s the genius of producing and marketing nail color. Both consumers and professionals want choices and manufactures can satisfy the demand, even while the formulation of the products remains essentially the same. Given personal preferences, infinite possibilities, evolving trends and new technologies, we’ll always be surrounded by the power and beauty of color. It’s hard to resist.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Professional Support

2013-02-04T18:52:00.002-08:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, January 2013

What makes us “professional?” In the broadest sense, anyone working in the beauty industry could be considered “professional,” including those who are not licensed, competent, ethical, legitimate or financially successful. Is being all of those things too much to expect of a “beauty professional?” We all know examples of talented, hard-working individuals who can’t support themselves, and others who do well for themselves, but work illegally. How do we reconcile ourselves to a concept that divides us, the concept of being professional?

Consider the efforts of the Professional Beauty Association (PBA), our industry’s largest trade association. Earlier this year, the PBA invited all beauty professionals to “Take the Pledge” and commit to a code of ethical practices. Each PBA membership section (Salon Owners, Licensed Professionals, Manufacturers and Distributors) has its own code online to “print, sign and display (press release dated July 6, 2012). If not already a member of the PBA, you may have missed this invitation to “Take the Pledge,” but it’s available to you “regardless of membership.”

For most readers, the applicable code would be either for Salon Owners or Licensed Professionals. This statement precedes each one: “In order to ensure and promote integrity in the professional beauty industry, PBA expects all members of the [insert section name here] section to abide by the standards which are reflected in this Code of Ethical Practice.” As might be expected, there’s significant overlap between the codes for salon owners and licensed professionals, with minor wording variations:

Provide high quality professional beauty products and services to the consumer.
Keep licensing and/or registration current as required by federal, state, and local authorities.
Keep insurance current as required by federal, state, and local authorities.
Accurately report tips and income as required by federal, state, and local authorities.
Only use professional products and not divert products.
Promote ethical pricing on products and services.
Make all advertising and sales promotions factually accurate.

Additionally, Salon Owners pledge to:

Promote positive awareness about the beauty industry.
Subscribe to and follow accountabilities standards.

Only employ licensed professionals when licensing is required to perform job function.”

And Licensed Professionals also pledge to:

Follow safety and sanitation guidelines.
Follow tax accountabilities.

As a salon owner, licensed professional and PBA member, I understand the PBA’s intent to “create a uniform standard in the way we view and act as an industry.” And I don’t disagree with what’s included in the codes. In fact, my initial reaction was “I’m already doing these things.” However, after careful consideration, I chose not to sign the pledge. In my opinion, it’s meaningless. This pledge wouldn’t change my behavior, or make me any more “professional.” Violating it does not carry any more consequences than signing it does.

What good does it do to pledge to follow laws and guidelines if you don’t know what they are? Beauty professionals don’t lack commitment, they lack information. I’ve supported the PBA for years, and especially appreciate its Nail Manufacturer Council on Safety (NMC). Scientific information from this trusted source benefits both the nail industry and consumers, and I reference it often. Even if the NMC were the only function of the PBA, it would make my membership worthwhile. Yet, I have a difficult time convincing other salon owners and licensees to join this organization. Why is that?

Granted, the impact and appeal of the PBA would be greater if there were national standards, testing and licensure, but that’s not the case. Our individual concerns tend to be more immediate because most of us work at the local level, regulated by our respective state governments. And at the federal level, where laws affect all of us, we don’t support each other and our industry as we should, especially with regard to legal compensation of employees and our tax obligations.

With all due respect, the PBA’s ongoing efforts to lobby Congress to pass The Small Business Tax Equalization and Compliance Act (SB974/HR195, also known as the FICA Tip Tax Credit), have not yet been successful. To its credit, the PBA does an excellent job of explaining its position that salon owners should not be responsible for paying taxes (7.65%) on tip income paid to service providers by consumers. Twenty years ago, the lobbying efforts of the National Restaurant Association resulted in a federal dollar-for-dollar tax credit for restaurant owners, known as section 45B of the Internal Revenue Code. However, that credit does not apply to salon owners and their employees, no matter how comparable the industries.

The proposed legislation is fundamentally fair and logically sound, but how many within the beauty industry even know about it? Sadly, even if they knew, I’m sure that many would think it’s not their problem. This legislation doesn’t directly affect manufacturers or distributors; their employees don’t collect tips. And let’s be real: many licensed professionals don’t report their tip income, and many salon owners don’t take financial responsibility for their workers as employees (although if audited, the IRS would categorize them as such). So we’re left with the PBA and salon owners who follow the law and pay their employment taxes fighting for this legislation? That’s not very encouraging, and apparently not enough. It’s time we come together as professionals for the better of our industry; we need each other’s support.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Maintaining Balance through Action

2013-01-06T23:54:00.000-08:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, December 2012

It’s common to use action terms to describe people’s progress through life: “moving up,” “going downhill,” “running in place” or “stuck in neutral.” But to quote Albert Einstein, “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving.” I couldn’t agree more. Personally, I equate balance with happiness, deriving satisfaction from a sense of stability. As a goal to be achieved, balance can be elusive, temporary and easily disrupted. However, as a way of being, something to be maintained, balance gives me the power to manage my life, especially when circumstances change.

Balance isn’t something I can easily quantify, but I can gauge the quality of my health (physical, mental and emotional), personal relationships, business, finances, etc. Though far from perfect, I’m doing well; sometimes I need distance from my daily life to appreciate that. Distance can be literal or figurative. Just last month, it was both as I headed to South Korea to attend the Seoul International Nail Fair. Traveling alone, I anticipated having many hours to myself, time I expected to spend writing this article, doing research, sleeping more . . . For the next three days, I didn’t work on clients, help my son with homework, run errands, pay bills, do housework or prepare meals. Instead, I was treated like a VIP*, and stayed in a luxury hotel, judged nail competitions, presented awards and dined out every night. Aside from interacting with my Korean nail friends and experiencing their culture, the fact that I had few responsibilities and virtually no control was very appealing.

The weeks, even the hours, leading up to my trip were hectic, but that’s not unusual nor a bad thing. It’s amazing how much you can accomplish when necessary. I’m accustomed to working and living at a quickened pace, given all that I have to do and choose to do. The momentum sustains me, and I find my balance somewhere between feeling bored and useless, and overwhelmed and used, tending toward the latter. I consider myself organized, resourceful and optimistic, but even I have my limits. Whenever I dread something or start feeling overwhelmed, it’s time to evaluate, prioritize and act accordingly. In some instances, that means saying, “That doesn’t work for me,” without explanation or apology, as suggested by a very wise client. From past experience, I know that taking on more than I can manage threatens my well-being, and that’s not acceptable.

Despite advance planning and timely actions, something unexpected can, and usually does, happen. For example, the morning of my trip, I allowed an extra hour of drive time to account for commuters, but hadn’t accounted for rainy weather conditions. Traffic was very heavy and the navigation system only made it seem worse as the remaining miles slowly counted down. Thankfully, I arrived at the parking structure on schedule, took the shuttle to the international terminal (the first stop, thank goodness) and made it through security with a few minutes to spare. Crisis averted. Moments before boarding, I checked my email one last time and learned that I’d be taking a taxi to the hotel. No worries, that’s why I carry American Express. In previous visits, I would board the plane trusting that my nail friends would greet me when I landed. This time, I trusted a complete stranger to drive me, and American Express to approve his payment, even though I’d neglected to alert the credit card company of my travel plans.

The rest of the weekend was uneventful, but didn’t go exactly as planned. In my free time, I watched far too much television and slept very little instead of writing this article. I rationalized my procrastination with the excuse that I wasn’t prepared to write it; I needed more time to think about how balance functions in my life. Really? My life wouldn’t function without it. Most people talk about balancing family, work and their other interests as if they were distinct and isolated. Perhaps they are. For me, balance comes from integration. Though I’m sole owner of my business, my family plays a large part. My parents, who live nearby, donated their skills to help me build the salon and they have standing nail appointments. We frequently share errands, Sunday dinners, sporting events and school functions with the grandchildren. My younger sister has been one of my employees since she became a licensed manicurist five years ago. We also share a household, combining our resources to raise our respective families. My teenage son spends time at the salon, understands my business and enjoys attending beauty shows. I can also connect community involvement, my primary activity outside the beauty industry, to my family and business through facilitation, sponsorships and donations. As much as I enjoyed myself in Seoul that weekend, I was excited to return home. Not only did I miss my family, I missed my work, even the mundane and repetitive tasks that I probably should delegate.

*Special thanks to Ok Hee Cho, my dear friend and Chairman of the Korea Nail Association, for being a wonderful hostess.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Upscale Your Retail

2012-12-07T13:16:00.000-08:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, November 2012

Given all the products necessary to provide nail services in your salon, it only makes sense that your clients would need at least some products to care for their nails between appointments. For example, would you rather have your clients remove a hangnail with their teeth, or with cuticle nippers? Would you rather have them buy a cheap pair at the drugstore, or your favorite brand directly from you? Many professional nail products would be appropriate and profitable to retail, yet most salons limit themselves to retailing a predictable and inexpensive few, like cuticle oil. As the holiday season fast approaches, it’s the ideal time to upscale your retail with professional nail products.

Please note that before retailing anything, you need to obtain the proper licensing as required by your state government. As a California business owner, I have a seller’s permit from the Board of Equalization (BOE), and must collect 7.25% sales tax (the rate varies throughout the state). Every quarter, I use the BOE’s convenient electronic/online services to file a return and make a payment based on my sales activity. Check with your state to ensure your compliance; all the information should be available online.

One of the benefits of being a licensed manicurist/nail technician is access to a great variety of professional nail products: from disposable items like nail files and buffers, to consumable items like lotion and polish, to more permanent equipment like metal tools and paraffin warmers. I choose products based on various factors (quality, price, convenience, availability, exclusivity, technical support, customer service, etc.) and spend accordingly. In fact, many of my colleagues would say they spend and accumulate too much (“product junkies”). Clients make choices based on the same factors and can have the same propensity for (over)spending, though fewer options. Ideally, your salon should be their best and most trusted source for quality nail products.

In a past article, Converting Retail Customers Into Loyal Clients (Stylist, December 2011), I described in more detail how retailing professional nail products satisfies the needs of existing clients and attracts new ones. Your product should be displayed prominently in a clean and organized way; if possible, use marketing materials and signage supplied by the manufacturer. Pricing should be competitive; generally, I use the manufacturer’s “salon price.” The selection of retail products at Precision Nails remains fairly consistent throughout the year; I make room for new products, like seasonal polish collections, by eliminating discontinued or less popular ones. The quantity on hand can vary depending on the season; for example, I tend to stock more Havaianas (rubber flip-flops) during the summer when more tourists visit.

While some salon owners fill their shelves with retail items that have nothing to do with nails (candles, jewelry, etc.), especially for the holidays, I do not. My business is a nail salon, not a gift store or flea market. That being said, professional nail products make great gifts. They can be personal, thoughtful and practical: both affordable and trendy like polish, or more expensive and permanent like cobalt stainless nail trimmers. Gift cards for a specific dollar amount are another option for clients who want to give someone else the power to choose between your services and/or products. I’ve set a minimum of $25 to cover the costs of the card and its packaging. Salon management software makes tracking easy.

Understandably, investing in retail can be expensive; however, if you focus on products you already use, they should be more manageable and easier to promote. Partner with your suppliers and order quantities that ensure bulk/discounted pricing. For example, I purchase unscented exfoliating scrub and massage lotion in 2-gallon bulk containers from which 3/4-ounce portion cups are filled for use later during services. Not only does this give me the best pricing and quantity control, it eliminates cross-contamination. When clients comment on how smooth their skin feels afterwards, we mention that the same products are packaged by the manufacturer for retail, both unscented and scented. I currently stock and display six different scents of the retail-sized shower gel, exfoliating scrub, body butter and massage lotion, with a minimum of three each. Clients can select their favorite scent(s) by sampling the lotions (8 ounce with pump dispenser) labeled as “testers.”

Some final thoughts:

Use your favorite brands/products during services and they will virtually sell themselves. Your services are like a paid product demonstration, minus the sales pitch.
Adjust your retail offerings according to demand, but don’t feel obligated to sell everything you use, or a brand/product you don’t. For example, I don’t sell the products/equipment related to gel enhancements.
Rather than discount your services (your time), reward clients by offering free product. The perceived value is greater than your actual cost, and it may lead to future product sales.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Finding Your Nail Niche

2012-11-05T18:26:00.000-08:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, October 2012

Assuming that you’re interested in the nail industry and have skills/talents/abilities worthy of compensation, how do you find your niche? What are your goals, and how much are you willing to compromise to reach them? What experiences will benefit you most? Our industry encompasses so many different occupations: licensed service providers (manicurists, estheticians, cosmetologists, etc.), salon owners, chemists, manufacturers, distributors, educators, consultants, marketers, event organizers, publishers, writers, web designers and more. Determining which situation suits you can be a challenge, but rather than be discouraged, it’s best to view the process as a journey of personal and professional growth.

As with any journey, we all start somewhere, and for many of us that place was beauty school. The beauty school experience, while shared, can vary considerably; some schools provide an excellent education and prepare students for the realities of salon work, while others do not. That’s to be expected because beauty schools exist to provide the basic knowledge necessary to pass a licensing examination (written and practical, in most states). Given the amount of time and money invested, it’s not the most efficient way to learn, but we need to make the best of it if we want to be licensed manicurists/nail technicians. Ultimately, it’s up to the individual student to seek the additional education, training and experiences to succeed as a licensee.

Immediately after beauty school, new licensees have options; some licensees feel prepared not only for the realities of salon work, but for the responsibilities of salon ownership. If only it were that simple. As a licensee and salon owner who’s never worked as a salon employee, I can understand the appeal. While in beauty school, I definitely planned to work for myself. However, I can also attest to the unlikelihood of success. Even with resources (primarily money), inexperienced salon owners and manicurists struggle to provide quality services, build a loyal clientele and maintain adequate cash flow. That’s the reason why I encourage aspiring salon owners and newly licensed manicurists to seek salon employment as their first position after beauty school, even if being an employee is not their ultimate goal. Why repeat the same mistakes made by others when you could be learning and earning without significant financial risk?

For every manicurist who complains that they cannot find a decent salon to work in, there’s a salon owner who could complain about finding a decent manicurist to lease space to or employ. When I began my business, I had no intention of hiring employees, but now I cannot imagine operating my salon without them. Expanding my business and hiring employees has been an essential part of my professional growth. While finding qualified employees isn’t easy, craigslist.com has proven the most affordable (it’s free) and effective (it’s accessible). Unlike other salon owners that don’t name their salons in their jobs posting, I include mine because it’s not a secret:

We're expanding! Precision Nails, the exclusive nails-only salon at The Crossroads Carmel, needs a licensed manicurist to join our staff part-time (Fridays and Saturdays to start, more days/hours may be added later). Must have valid California manicuring license, ability to learn and strong communication skills. No salon experience or clientele necessary. All training, products and clients provided.

Learn advanced techniques from an expert educator.
Perform innovative natural nail and gel enhancement services in our elegant salon.
Work with premium products (Light Elegance, Essie, Mehaz, etc.)
Take pride in working in a sanitary environment.
Become proficient using STX, the award-winning salon management software.
Enjoy the support of a proactive owner, friendly coworkers and our loyal clients.

Please email resume to apply; NO phone calls. Compensation is listed as $10/hour (guaranteed) plus tips, AND retail and service commissions.

If an applicant responds to this posting with a phone call and/or salon visit, I don’t consider them. That may seem harsh, but following directions is important. Besides, communication via email lets me know if the applicant can write reasonably well. Of course, any resumes submitted also give me insight. Note that grammar mistakes, an invalid license, and/or questionable work history (for example, 10+ different positions in 15 years of work experience!) will eliminate applicants from consideration. Few of my colleagues enter the industry and remain in the same position throughout their nail careers; circumstances change and opportunities present themselves. But I prefer to hire manicurists that have limited experience and no clientele for a reason. My employees provides services according to salon procedures on clients of Precision Nails. Applicants who want to do their thing can open their own salons.

With the recent hiring of two new employees, it was finally time to invest in custom magnetic name badges. Why would I want everyone identified? First, there may be only four of us, but our first names aren’t common. (We use our legal, given names instead of glamorized or simplified “salon” names.) Second, while we work within the same salon, wear the same style of uniform and provide the same services, I want my employees to distinguish themselves and be treated as individual professionals. For now, they’ve found their niche as my employees and I wish them the best, no matter what their future holds.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Organizing your Salon Space

2012-09-30T15:15:00.000-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, September 2012

How much space do you really need to do your best work? It may be less than you think. Whether you’re planning a new salon or remodeling an existing one, the size of your space doesn’t matter as much as how it’s organized. A small, individual room can be functional, spacious and luxurious if organized efficiently, whereas a large salon can be impractical, cluttered and cheap-looking if it’s not. Having an efficient salon space can reduce your overhead (lease, utilities, equipment, maintenance, etc.) and increase your productivity.

Before spending any money on decorating, expanding or moving your salon, learn what’s required by your state board. Even if you already have a valid salon/facility/establishment license, it’s worth reviewing the current regulations about equipment, ventilation, flooring, plumbing/toilets, product storage, signage, etc. Some states are more restrictive than others; here are specific examples:
California - a drinking fountain that is accessible to the disabled may be required in new buildings and remodels (check with local authorities).
Ohio - a floor plan drawn to scale and a sign at the main entrance “using at least three inch tall letters.”
Oregon - a list of licensees providing services and “a map or directions to the facility if it is located in a rural or isolated area.”
Texas - an “autoclave, dry heat sterilizer or ultraviolet sanitizer” if providing nail services.
Washington - a public liability insurance policy for at least $100,000.
A complete list of regulations for your state can be found online; if you have any questions or concerns, make sure to get a response in writing before proceeding. Required or not, business insurance (both liability and property) is a worthwhile investment to protect your clients, your salon and its contents.

State board requirements aside, your salon environment reflects more than personal style (design choices, color preferences, etc.); it also reflects your priorities, which transcend style. Your first priority should be to protect the health and safety of clients. That’s why cleanliness is so important. There’s no excuse for a dirty salon, except the obvious: the busier you are, the more cleaning needs to be done (dusting!), and the less time you have to do it. That’s all the more reason to simplify your decor, have adequate cleaning supplies available and develop a quick routine for surface cleaning. Sharing the responsibility for cleaning will encourage everyone to do their part and take pride in the salon environment. Deeper cleaning also needs to be done on a regular basis, either by staff or an outside service.

Another priority in your salon should be client comfort. Clients are more likely to enjoy their experience when they feel safe and trust your professionalism. Consider your clients as they transition from one aspect of your salon to another. From reception and services, to retail and restrooms, your space needs to be sensible, convenient and accessible, in addition to being clean. Furthermore, the operation of your salon should seem effortless; for example, clients shouldn’t be able to see business paperwork (invoices, bills, bank statements, etc.). To reduce paper clutter, sort through your mail right away, recycle unwanted catalogs, shred sensitive materials and store your paperwork somewhere other than the salon, if possible.

Your comfort as a service provider cannot be neglected either. Because you’ll be spending most of your time at your station, it has to be designed ergonomically. Supportive seating, proper body positioning and adequate task lighting are a must. To conserve space, I’ve created stations where hand and foot services can be performed simultaneously, rather than have separate manicure/enhancement and pedicure areas. Because my salon provides “waterless” services, the only plumbing necessary is a sink where clients and manicurists wash their hands, tools are processed for the autoclave sterilizer and towels can be moistened before placing in the warmer. The public restrooms are conveniently located just outside the front door and maintained by the management of the shopping center.

Contrary to how most manicurists design their stations, every product or piece of equipment does not need to be within arms reach. In fact, it’s better for your health to stand up and move periodically. In my salon, each station has a compact rolling cart stocked with the products used most often during services (gloves, files, cuticle remover, base coat, top coat, etc.); bulk quantities of those same products, the extensive polish/gel polish selection and equipment (towel warmer, paraffin warmer, microwave, etc.) are stored in the back room. Plastic containers and a label maker can keep your back room, or any storage area, organized and clean.

Speaking of storage, do yourself a favor and dispose of products you rarely or never use. Minimizing your products will reduce clutter in your salon, and focus resources (money and space) on the most important ones. Buying those products in bulk, which I strongly recommend, doesn’t require that everything be stored at the salon. For example, I buy nearly 500 lbs. of paraffin (packaged in 24 lb. cases) every two years; I can store the paraffin at home and bring a case to the salon about once a month. Whatever space you utilize, ensure that you store products safely (follow manufacturer’s instructions) and have corresponding MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) available for reference.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Education Etiquette

2012-09-06T22:35:00.001-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, August 2012

If experience were the best teacher, the beauty industry would have no need for formal education. Those interested in becoming a nail professional would purchase supplies, open for business and practice their manicuring skills on unsuspecting clients. In time, they might learn how to do quality work (without hurting their clients) and succeed financially, but that’s not very likely. Experience can be the most inefficient, unreliable and dangerous way to learn, and some manicurists will never become skilled or successful, no matter how much experience they have.

Quality education should be the foundation of our technical expertise; hours of direct instruction/guided practice can easily supersede years of trying. But if education has this potential, why do educators complain that it’s hard to fill classes while manicurists complain about the lack of education? Instead of complaining, we should consider how we can mutually benefit from the learning process. Beyond the mere transfer of knowledge, we can explore new ideas, solve problems, inspire each other and advance the professionalism of our industry. By following education etiquette, both students and educators can play their respective roles:

For Students

Find available classes by researching the internet, reading industry publications and contacting manufacturers, distributors, show/event organizers, educators and other nail professionals.
Watching videos and participating in webinars can be done anywhere, but plan to travel to attend classes in person.
Register in advance, if required, otherwise the class may be cancelled for lack of interest. If you pay for a class and don’t attend, don’t expect a refund.
Bring any required supplies, as directed by the educator.
Arrive early and sit near the front of the room to limit distractions.
Be prepared to take notes, either with pen/paper or electronic device. Ask permission before taking photographs or making any audio/video recordings. The content belongs to the educator, not the students.
Silence your cell phone.
Remember that if you’re not the educator, you’re a student, so behave accordingly. Understand that your background knowledge/experience differs from other students and be supportive of your educator’s efforts to include everyone.
Reserve your questions/comments until the end of the class; don’t be that obnoxious student everyone dreads.
Thank your educator. Some are paid to present classes, but many donate their time and travel expenses.

For Educators

Focus on informing rather than selling; students will respect you more.
Plan shorter rather than longer classes, especially at events that have multiple attractions, like a full schedule of classes, nail competitions and a bustling exhibit floor.
Allow enough time to cover your topic adequately. In my opinion, a lecture class is ideally 60-75 minutes long. For a demonstration class, I allow twice the time it takes to perform the actual task, and for a hands-on class, triple the time.
Make the title of your class brief and relevant; write a description (less than 100 words) that accurately represents the content.
Promote your class through your website, social media, email, print media etc. to reach as many potential students as possible.
Avoid canceling classes; should this happen, announce it immediately and promptly refund any payments.
Visit your classroom the day before, if possible, to preview the location and layout. Confirm that any signage is correct.
Know how to operate whatever equipment you plan to use (lighting, laptop, projector, video camera, etc.), whether it belongs to you or the facility.
Be kind to all event staff (management, decorators, audio-visual experts, room monitors and janitors); you never know when you’ll need their help.
Get your rest and eat something beforehand to maintain your energy. Have water available for the occasional dry mouth or inopportune cough.
Arrive early so you can be prepared to start on time.
Project your voice with confidence; not every classroom will be equipped with a microphone.
Remind your students to silence their cell phones, and instruct them to either ask questions throughout or save them for the end, whichever you prefer.
Briefly introduce yourself; don’t assume everyone knows who you are.
Structure your content logically and make it accessible so students can listen, observe, read and/or experience the information.
Be enthusiastic, no matter how many students you have.
Engage your students by making eye contact and speaking from bullet points rather than reading a script.
Adapt your content to the knowledge level(s) of your students to make everyone feel welcome.
Control your class by staying on topic and not allowing disruptions. You’re entitled to ask any disruptive student (tardy, chatty, disrespectful, confrontational, etc.) to leave the classroom; other students will appreciate your assertiveness.
Thank your students for their time and attention. Give them your contact information so they can ask questions later and learn about future classes.
Invite more experienced educators to attend your class and provide feedback.
Be courteous to other educators, particularly those sharing the same classroom: end your class on time, clear out quickly and don’t leave a mess.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Add-ons Made Easy

2012-08-05T19:44:00.001-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, July 2012

It’s fairly common for nail salons to offer add-on services, like paraffin treatments, French polish and nail art. The options and pricing vary, of course, because there’s a great deal of flexibility and few guidelines. For example, a salon offering nail art might charge by the nail, the time required, the difficulty of the design, or the amount of colors/glitter/rhinestones/etc. used. While add-ons have the potential to significantly increase revenue, their success depends on desirability, cost- and time-effectiveness and client perceptions of value.

Before exploring these variables, I want to acknowledge that for the purpose of this discussion, I will focus on nail-related add-on services only. Many salons have expanded their menus to include more unconventional services, but I caution salon owners against straying beyond their primary business, performing regulated beauty services. Just because clients want something doesn’t mean that you’re qualified/licensed to provide it, or that their/your best interests would be served if you did.

When considering the introduction of a new service, ask yourself, “Will this service enhance my reputation as a successful nail professional?” For example, consider “detox” foot soaks. Be sensible. If detoxifying were even possible through feet (it’s not; ask a reputable doctor) and capable of curing ailments/diseases (really?), you’d be practicing medicine which is definitely NOT within your scope of practice. Conversely, if it’s a scam (it is; just ask a chemist if you’re still not convinced), then you’d be practicing quackery which is unethical and unprofessional. Why risk your reputation when your credibility would be permanently damaged? Please, don’t. Now back to our discussion . . .

Much like retail, add-ons have a somewhat negative connotation as an “up-sell,” an extra or more expensive service that you must persuade clients to purchase. As a nail professional and salon owner, I want to provide services clients need and want, without any convincing on my part. What’s the secret? Add-ons sell themselves when clients desire them. It all depends on how your salon defines an add-on.

When developing services, I recommend giving your clients options, but not too many, otherwise scheduling and explaining the differences among services become too complicated. This can be easily avoided by creating two distinct levels of service: a very simple one that meets basic nail care needs and another that packages more luxury into an expanded service. Pedicures provide a ready example:

Basic

Nail shaping
Cuticle work

Expanded

Nail shaping
Cuticle work
Callus work
Exfoliation
Paraffin
Massage

At Precision Nails, the basic service (Foot Express) costs $20 and takes 15 minutes, and the expanded service (Foot Detail) costs $50 and takes 45 minutes. If all the extras provided in the expanded service were available individually, it would be a pricing and scheduling hassle. Whereas, when those extras come packaged together, most clients willingly choose the expanded (and more expensive) service.

Note that neither of these services includes polish. Why? We don’t assume that only women need/want their nails done; men deserve and appreciate professional nail care also. Besides, not all women want polish and some men do. I deliberately name and describe services in a gender-neutral way, because the quality of the service and the products used don’t change according to the client’s gender. Pricing should be based on the service provided, not on who’s receiving it. Our clients, whether male or female, can add a polish application or buffing to either the basic or expanded service for an additional charge; that’s the client’s choice. (Our salon doesn’t offer nail art; that’s my choice).

The cost- and time-effectiveness of an add-on service should be calculated like any other service. My standard is to price a service at no less than a $1/minute, and to limit product costs to no more than 10% of the service cost. For example, we charge $15 for a polish application or buffing, and schedule an additional 15 minutes, though it may take less time. (To learn more about my competitive pricing strategy, please reference the article published in the March 2011 Stylist).

Despite their potential, add-ons cannot generate any revenue if clients aren’t charged for them. That sounds obvious, but I cannot count the number of nail professionals who complain that their clients expect “freebies,” like nail art/repairs/massage/etc. Despite their perceptions, clients must be held financially accountable for the services they choose to receive. To firmly establish your value, produce a comprehensive brochure with enticing service descriptions that detail what’s included, the time allowed and the price. Your salon policies (appointments, cancellations, payment options, etc.) also need to be explained in writing. When asked about your service prices, whether in person, by email or phone call, be prepared to ask some questions to determine which services, if any, best meet the client’s needs. And make sure to charge accordingly.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Miss (or Mister) Independent?

2012-07-05T10:57:00.000-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, June 2012

Several years ago, after teaching a class at Premiere Orlando, I was approached by an apprehensive student who asked, “How do I convince my husband that I can make money doing nails?” Though unexpected, it was a relevant question. Even before becoming licensed, this student was feeling uncertain about her career choice. Perhaps she was concerned about finding the ideal salon, investing in expensive products, developing her technical skills, building a loyal clientele or other challenges that we face as beauty professionals. Instinctively, I responded, “You need to convince yourself first.” Rather than offer false assurances, I wanted to be honest. While my experience validates the possibility of success, it’s not a common experience and not what students should expect, no matter how confident they are. If believing in oneself were the foundation of success, any manicurist could succeed, regardless of talent, effort and/or luck. That’s simply not the case.

Here’s something else students are not likely to be told, but I tell them anyway. Within the beauty profession, there’s a strong possibility of failure, and the overwhelming desire to be “independent” may be to blame. Visit any beauty school and the majority of students will share their dreams of opening their own salons. I can relate to the excitement of entering a new profession, and appreciate the students’ enthusiasm. Understandably, it’s very appealing to envision ourselves as capable of making our own decisions, controlling our work environment, making clients looks and feel better, doing what we love and supporting ourselves. But how realistic is that, really? Regardless of employment status, how many manicurists earn a living wage doing nails? If not many, don’t blame greedy salon owners. Having taken an opportunity to be independent either as booth renters or salon owners, why do so many manicurists still struggle?

Let’s go back to beauty school, in which students learn how to perform the beauty services required by a licensing examination. Being prepared for a test is different from being prepared for the realities of salon work, much less salon ownership. Instructors can inspire students all they want, but if they happened to be unsuccessful working in a salon environment, how can they prepare their students? (I doubt most instructors, while still students, dreamed of working at a beauty school for $15 an hour.) Not to minimize the sacrifices students make, but the investment of attending beauty school at a fixed cost for a specific number of hours does not compare to the investment of launching a salon, and the continuous demands of its operation. Completing beauty school is a prerequisite for attempting the licensing exam; does any state require a beauty school education to own a salon?

I ask that question facetiously because I’m frequently contacted by individuals who plan to open salons, despite having no professional education or experience in our industry other than receiving services. (I love dining out, but that doesn’t qualify me to own a restaurant.) These potential salon owners believe that their success in their current profession will easily translate to success in the nail profession. They’re just as naive as students. Opening a salon is easy; operating one that’s legal and profitable is much harder to achieve.

Returning to the plight of struggling manicurists, what’s the problem? Spend time around them, whether online or in person, and they’ll offer multiple explanations:

the economy is bad and all salons are suffering
I can’t compete with discount salons
my clients will leave if I raise my prices
my services take a long time, but it’s because I’m a perfectionist
my clients expect free repairs and nail art
the cost of quality products is too expensive
the other manicurists in the salon don’t clean
the salon owner doesn’t refer clients to me, and so on.

Apparently, not even glitter can cover their frustration. It would seem that there’s always some excuse, but very little personal responsibility.

Why do these manicurists reject the option of being employed by a successful and responsible salon owner? What makes them believe they could do better on their own? While optimism might sustain them initially, and sometimes indefinitely, it can also mislead. How else to explain the number of manicurists who persist in our profession despite not being financially successful? Maybe they don’t need to make money; they might have another job, financial support from a spouse or a trust fund. That’s not me; I’ve always valued my success more than my independence because I need to support myself. Each of us must consider what’s in our best interests, and for some, that might mean leaving the nail profession altogether. If that seems harsh, I’d say that encouraging those incapable of success, for whatever reasons, to stick it out would be far more so. If I’m wrong, they can prove it.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Nails in the News

2012-06-03T15:51:00.001-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, May 2012

Browsing the home page of msnbc.com recently, I was surprised to find an article link containing the words "extreme manicure" at the top of the page. Before proceeding to the article, I hesitated a moment. Whenever reading or watching any news related to nails, I'm prepared to be disappointed and frustrated. It's not that I expect the news to be positive; that would be remarkable and promising, and likely not news at all.

There's a difference between journalism (investigating and reporting on current events, trends, etc.) and content marketing (providing information to alter consumer behavior and build brand loyalty). I expect journalistic integrity from my news, and hold the media accountable for what they present. What's the purpose and relevance of the news report? Who's the source? Is the information (facts, quotes, etc.) accurate and objective? Has the context been adequately established? What are the qualifications of any contributors? How was the research conducted? What conclusions can be drawn? What impact does the information have? And on a more personal note, why should I care?

Some defend content marketing by claiming that consumers are sophisticated enough to distinguish between journalism and marketing: "today's audiences are accustomed to filtering information from a great many sources and taking those sources into account" (When Worlds Collide by Peter Haapaniemi at www.customcontentcouncil.com). Really? If I were a consumer without any specialized knowledge about nail care (anatomy/physiology, infection control, product chemistry, etc.), I'd probably believe the following:

nails need to breathe;
clients should bring their own tools to the salon;
professional nail services, pedicures in particular, can be deadly;
nail polish adversely affects reproductive health and causes breast cancer;
UV lamps used to cure gel nails cause skin cancer;
products that smell are more toxic than ones that don't.

Repeated often enough in the media, this information, whether true or not, makes consumers afraid of nail salons and nail products, both professional and retail.

If having your nails done is dangerous, then doing nails must be very dangerous. Yet, manicurists don't even make the list of "The 15 Most Dangerous Jobs in America:"

Fishers and related fishing workers*
Logging workers
Aircraft pilots and flight engineers*
Farmers and ranchers*
Coal miners
Roofers
Refuse and recyclable material collectors*
Truck drivers*
Police officers*
Electrical power-line installers and repairers
Construction laborers
Taxi drivers and chauffeurs**
Grounds maintenance workers*
Athletes, coaches, umpires and related workers*
Operating engineers and construction equipment operators*

*Transportation incidents are the main cause of death.
** Assaults accounted for slightly more deaths than transportation incidents.
(Based on data compiled by the Bureau of Labor Statistics in 2010 and reported by Gus Lubin and Kevin Lincoln for www.businessinsider.com).
My work as a nail professional does not require driving, which might explain why it doesn't rank among these other professions.

That being said, it's interesting that when I Googled "nail polish death," I could document an actual death related to nail polish. But it had nothing to do with "toxic" chemicals as some might expect In a tragic incident widely known as the "Nail Polish Crash," motorcyclist Anita Zaffke was killed by motorist Lora Hunt who was polishing her nails while behind the wheel. Hunt was subsequently convicted of reckless homicide and sentenced to 18 months. Meanwhile, Zaffke's son Greg honors his mother's memory with the Crash Coalition (www.crashcoalition.org), a non-profit organization advocating against DWD (driving while distracted). DWD is deliberate and avoidable, yet one of the the leading causes of fatalities and injuries according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (www.distraction.gov.).

I digress, so back to the article I found on msnbc.com, A whole new gloss: Consumers buy into 'extreme manicure' trend by Martha C. White. The author and I have different perspectives on what constitutes "extreme" or even "new;" she briefly mentions the "crack" polish look and "press-on decals" as if they were revolutionary. Within approximately 400 words, the word "bright" appears 3 times to emphasize the trend towards bolder and less traditional colors. White also cites some research from the NPD Group about increased polish sales at department stores (up 63%) and the popularity of blue polish, which accounts for 20% of the top 130 colors sold. (There's no data included on polish sales at salons or mass market retailers, like Target or Walmart.)

White concludes that "budget-minded," "DIY" shoppers are driving this "low-cost trend." That's laughable because I would never refer to consumers who buy department store polish as "budget-conscious" or likely to DIY; Chanel's Le Vernis Nail Color, at $26 a bottle, is hardly "low-cost" when compared to professional polish available for about $8 a bottle. So while the overall tone of the article is positive (no mention is made of the "toxicity" of nail polish ingredients), White ends her article by quoting a retail strategist: '"The customer that used to to get weekly manicures is probably doing her own nails," Levy said. That nail salon's loss is a beauty retailer's gain.' Here's some news: we're gaining clients who prefer to have their nails done professionally, and we also retail polish, some of it blue.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

New Leadership for Our Multi-cultural Industry

2012-05-01T22:21:00.000-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, April 2012

The nail industry could use some good news, and I certainly don’t mean the introduction of another gel polish brand. Don’t get me wrong; I appreciate what reputable and innovative manufacturers contribute to our industry. But what manicurists really need we can’t buy from manufacturers, and that’s leadership. Despite being a growing, multi-cultural industry, we lack direction and have a serious image problem. Is it just me, or does it seem that most publicity about nails is bad (toxic chemicals, dirty salons, deadly pedicures, poor customer service, human trafficking, etc.)? Well-intentioned efforts to educate consumers can inadvertently damage our image further when not handled carefully.

Of course, it’s not just manicurists that suffer bad publicity. And the publicity doesn’t even have to be “real.” Have you seen the suggestive ads for the The Client List, an upcoming fictional television series made for Lifetime starring Jennifer Love Hewitt? The insulting characterization of massage therapists as sex workers has generated protests and online petitions to boycott. In defense of the show, Hewitt has been quoted as saying: "I feel badly that they feel offended, but I respect that people need to say what they need to say . . . At the end of the day, though, it's a television series. I'm not saying every massage parlor in the world gives happy endings, nor do I know which ones do, but it is a part of our society. And even if it wasn't, it's just a part of our story. It's entertainment."* I’m not sure that explanation would make me feel any better if I were a (therapeutic) massage professional.

For better, and more often worse, media portrayals of manicurists both reflect and influence how we’re perceived. Consider these characterizations, not so much for their accuracy, but for the powerful messages they convey about our career choice:

Madge the Manicurist, played by accomplished actress Jan Miner, promoted the use of Palmolive dishwashing liquid with the assurance “You’re soaking in it.” She never lacked for clients at Salon East Beauty Parlor and had a longer career than most manicurists (1966-1992).
Ms. (Bunny) Swan, played by Alex Borstein on MADtv, worked at the Gorgeous Pretty Beauty Nail Salon. Though somewhat ambiguous, her ethnicity was often perceived as Asian. She was known for her questionable language skills and frumpy work attire. Who can forget that colorful checkered smock with foot appliques that always covered her floral print dresses?
Paulette Bonafonté, played by Jennifer Coolidge in Legally Blonde, was the insecure and unfashionable manicurist who befriends law student Elle Woods (Reese Witherspoon). She’s best remembered for learning the “bend and snap” to attract a man, not so much for doing great nails.
Anjelah Johnson became famous for her stand-up routine in which she described having her nails done by “Tammy,” a Vietnamese manicurist at Beautiful Nail. Johnson joined the cast of MADtv as a featured player and her videos have more than 50 million views on YouTube.
Katie Cazorla stars in Nail Files, the first reality show based in a nail salon. While not a licensed manicurist herself, she and her staff at The Painted Nail (located in Sherman Oaks, California) earned ratings worthy of a second season premiering this summer.

As manicurists, we’ve allowed ourselves to be relegated into a position of inferiority, even within the beauty industry. We reinforce this by apologizing for our work as “Just nails;” I wouldn’t expect Robert Cromeans or Vivienne Mackinder to say “I only do hair.” We’ll never achieve a more favorable public image if we don’t value ourselves and respect our colleagues. In last month’s column, I encouraged licensees and salon owners to advocate for our industry, particularly at the state level. But we need to proceed with integrity and fairness, and without prejudice. We cannot tolerate derogatory and divisive language related to cultural, socio-economic and/or gender stereotypes (words such as “Oriental/Asian,” “chop shop,” “white-trash,” “ghetto,” “bimbo” or “gay”). I’ve heard this language used by both consumers and professionals as they make broad generalizations about the nail industry. Whether derived from prejudice or limited experience, it’s entirely unfair and serves no purpose other than to perpetuate negative stereotypes.

Our responsibilities as licensees do not change according to our backgrounds or circumstances; we all must follow the applicable laws and regulations. Anyone who wants to be a nail professional and/or salon owner must meet the minimum standards, whatever those may be in your particular state. If those standards do not prevent incompetent licensees from entering the workforce or ignorant owners from operating salons, don’t blame the licensees, the owners, the beauty schools or the examination. The fault lies with the governmental agency that established the standards in the first place. Mediocrity should not be the standard; we should expect more of ourselves and consumers deserve better. The good news? California’s state board recently elected a licensed manicurist and salon owner, Christie Truc Tran, as president. With her leadership, I expect that we’ll make significant progress in unifying as nail professionals and advancing our best interests.

* Reported by Jay Bobbin of Zap2it on March 1, 2012.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Advocacy is Your Right

2012-04-03T21:39:00.000-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, March 2012

Observing yet another quarterly meeting of California’s Board of Barbering and Cosmetology (BBC), I can’t help but have some strong opinions. After all, the issues being addressed in this particular meeting, like health and safety regulations, enforcement procedures and unlicensed activity, directly affect how I do business. Other members of the audience have their own opinions, and that’s one of the main advantages of being at this meeting: the opportunity to share our opinions on the record. In California, the BBC must hold public meetings to facilitate transparency and accountability. To make the meetings even more accessible, they’re simultaneously webcast and later archived on the BBC website. That means I could watch the proceedings from the comfort of my home, even months later. Instead, I choose to be present, no matter what’s on the agenda or how far I must travel. Even when I don’t speak on the record, my presence at these meetings demonstrates my commitment to fair and reasonable governance.

Those unfamiliar with state regulatory agencies may be disappointed to learn that it’s not the government’s responsibility to promote our profession. We have national organizations for that purpose, chiefly the Professional Beauty Association (PBA) which also encompasses the National Cosmetology Association (NCA). As worthwhile as these organizations are, their resources and influence on state governments are limited. It would be different if there were national standards, testing and licensure, but that’s not the case. The fact is individual states protect consumers by regulating us, state by state. To influence how that’s accomplished, we need more salon owners and licensees to participate at the state level, rather than depend on others to advocate for us. We know protecting consumers and promoting our profession are mutually beneficial, rather than exclusive, goals. It only makes sense because strong consumer protection validates our education, licensure and the enforcement of rules and regulations, especially those dealing with health and safety. Who better to protect our interests as beauty professionals, taxpayers, consumers and residents in our respective states than ourselves?

Over the years, I’ve heard so many complaints about inadequate training, outdated exams, incompetent licensees, infrequent inspections, unfair competition, etc., it makes me wonder if any state board does its job well? If not, why bother with licensing at all? Apparently, others have asked the same question and determined that it wasn’t necessary. Recent proposals in Florida, Indiana and New Hampshire to deregulate the beauty profession have prompted professionals to react vehemently to protect their licensing. While that’s encouraging, it’s not enough. To be a more powerful influence on state government, our involvement should be lasting and proactive, not temporary and reactive. If the powers that be only see and/or hear from professionals under the most extreme circumstances, it diminishes our potential impact. Rather than merely complain, consider what you could do to help your board improve. We could accomplish so much more working collaboratively with our state boards, expressing our support or criticism appropriately and respectfully. Building a collaborative relationship with your state board begins with reaching out. The internet makes this easy; there are numerous online resources to learn out about upcoming meetings, proposed regulations and other opportunities to contribute, like being a subject matter expert or serving on an advisory committee. Your professional expertise can help your board develop and implement better policies.

Interacting directly with board members and staff will give you perspective on current policies, and the reasoning and history behind them, whether you agree or not. I have concerns (some minor, others major) about nearly every aspect of my state board’s purview: scope of practice, health and safety, curriculum, beauty schools, written and practical examinations, licensing fees, booth rental, inspections, enforcement and continuing education. There’s plenty of room for improvement, but policies evolve at a much slower pace than our industry does. The constraints (financial, legal, political, etc.) under which state boards operate limit their ability to change. For example, in California, we desperately need more salon inspectors and support staff, and have the money to fund these positions, but a hiring freeze imposed by our governor makes that difficult, if not impossible, at this time.

If we must be regulated, I demand to be regulated fairly and reasonably. For your individual awareness and our collective interests, I encourage you to learn more about the legislative issues affecting our profession. Write directly to the executive officer of your board, the agency overseeing your board, your state legislators and your governor. Attend board meetings and volunteer. Share your concerns and suggestions with other beauty professionals through networking, trade publications and social media. Discuss your involvement with your clients; these are the consumers your board is supposed to protect. For me, advocacy means expressing my opinions judiciously, supported with facts, no matter how unpopular or contradictory to current policy. My opinion counts, as does yours. Advocacy is your right; please use it, wisely.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Building Your Own Online Resource

2012-03-03T23:26:00.000-08:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, February 2012

Selecting a favorite online resource would be easy if there were one that offers everything I want and need. Because that’s not possible, I’ll take a more pragmatic approach and admit that my favorite resources belong to financial institutions (my bank, credit card companies, etc.). There’s nothing “beauty” about their websites, but they serve their purpose well. These sites provide personalized, timely and necessary information, as well as functionality like online bill payment, that I depend on as a business owner. I visit regularly, often daily, to update my finances and make decisions that affect my salon.

Speaking of my salon, it has an online presence also, and I’m not referring to a Facebook page. Many salons have websites; that’s not uncommon. However, there’s a distinction to be made between a simplistic and static site that includes little more than contact information, and a complex and dynamic one that provides visitors more relevant and unique content. Some salon owners will not, or can not, make the investment required to have a more substantial website, if any at all. What a missed opportunity! Building and maintaining a website that others consider a resource is a great way to promote your salon.

The most affordable (at only about $10 a year) and simplest step in the process is the first one, registering a domain name. Lucky for me, my salon name with a “.com” address was available back in 2000. Had it not been, I would have been very reluctant to hyphenate, misspell or otherwise vary the name. Consistency and convenience are important considerations when registering a domain; it needs to be easy to find.

To build the site, I initially considered doing it myself, but quickly determined that I had neither the time, talent nor desire to master the existing software. Assuming that a professional web designer would be too expensive, I made a critical mistake and hired an enthusiastic college student with limited experience. When the process stalled after a few months, I did my research (better late than never) and learned that the design services of a local, emerging firm were more affordable than I thought. I quickly corrected my hiring mistake, and the process restarted in earnest.

Working with a professional web designer proved a very positive experience. Our collaborative process involved many discussions about the purpose of the website: to provide a convenient way for potential clients to learn about the salon. To this end, I wrote all the content (service descriptions and pricing, salon policies, nail care advice, etc.) and the designer did his part to create an attractive and navigable website. In the years since its launch, the website has expanded with the addition of FAQs, a blog, online booking, a shopping cart and consulting information. Regular updates keep the content fresh for visitors who find us through search engines, links from other websites and email marketing.

As expected, my salon website became the most cost-effective way to reach potential clients. But even when something appears to be working, improvements can be made. At a certain point, updates and minor revisions are not enough to get the job done. For example, this time last year, my salon marketing materials (brochure, gift card, business cards, etc.) needed a complete redesign. In the past, I’d always managed without a graphic designer by working directly with a local print shop. But when my expectations outpaced my capabilities, I knew it was time to hire another professional. Together, we produced new materials with a more cohesive, vibrant and sophisticated appearance. Having done that, the website obviously needed a redesign also; it looked tired in comparison.

Thanks to the hard work of my graphic designer, the design of the website (colors, fonts, images, layout, etc.) now aligns with the new salon materials. More important, the website serves multiple purposes; it contains information tailored to potential clients and beauty professionals, separately and collectively. For clients, we simplified the services menu and reservations process, reworked the FAQs, added a complete listing of our polish selection and recommended local services, organizations and businesses.

For professionals, we created an entirely new area accessed by login. Previously, I’d shared product recommendations, service procedures and upcoming events by sending newsletters upon request. Because email marketing has its limitations (timeliness, reader/list fatigue, inbox deliverability, list churn, etc.), it seemed a far better solution to post this information directly on the website. Once registered, professionals will find: nail-related articles from the Stylist, my favorite professional products and services, a comprehensive schedule of beauty shows, networking events and classes and step-by-step instructions for my most popular services, like waterless spa manicures and pedicures. I don’t expect my salon’s website to be anyone else’s favorite. It certainly won’t please everyone or meet all their needs, but as long as it serves my purposes, it’s worthwhile. Check it out at www.precisionnails.com.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

The Value of Standing Appointments

2012-02-02T07:46:00.000-08:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, January 2012

After the chaos/excitement of the holidays, every year begins with a new, orderly salon schedule. At first glance, it may not look that different from last year’s schedule. The salon hours did not change; we’re still open Monday through Saturday, 10 am to 6 pm. We didn’t gain or lose any manicurists; there are three of us and I need to hire another one (that’s a whole other topic). We didn’t add or eliminate any services, and prices have not changed since our last increase in January 2010. Even the names on the schedule are familiar; they belong to clients who’ve reserved standing appointments for the entire year. Standing appointments demonstrate how much these Preferred Clients, as we call them, value our time and services. Likewise, we value Preferred Clients, above all others, for their commitment and reliability. Simply stated, my salon would not be as successful without them.

For 2012, we have approximately 75 Preferred Clients on our schedule. Some are relatively new, while others have been loyal clients for more than ten years. The importance of these clients is obvious; taken together, they account for nearly half our available time and more than half the income generated by the salon, including retail. While value can be quantified by various statistics (service frequency, service/retail/tip dollars, referrals, etc.), those numbers do not convey the qualitative value of standing appointments. They provide structure and stability, and eliminate the seasonal fluctuations that some salons experience. Particularly in uncertain economic times, it’s very reassuring to know that we can reasonably expect a certain amount of revenue during the year.

More than once, I’ve heard the advice that a client should be pre-booked for the next appointment before leaving the salon. That’s not good enough if you want to secure a client’s loyalty for the long term. Why waste the time it takes to schedule the next appointment every visit when you could make a more permanent arrangement? Not only will this save time, but it also relieves the anxiety associated with either having too few clients on your schedule, or so many that you cannot find time for your best clients when they want an appointment.

To build a salon schedule based on standing appointments, advance planning is required, and the more consistent you can be, the better. Begin by establishing your available hours. For example, I work with clients Tuesday thru Thursday; my employees have different, yet consistent, schedules to cover the remaining salon hours. It’s also important to plan your schedule at least a year in advance. The planning for 2012 began last June (2011) with a completely empty schedule. (We don’t block off holidays until after reserving standing appointments; we reschedule those affected clients later.) A complete list of Preferred Clients (and others who wanted to be) ensured that everyone received consideration. Once it was determined that there wouldn’t be any price, service, or schedule changes, we started filling the schedule and confirming reservations based on seniority. Most Preferred Clients wanted to keep the same schedule, while some needed a change (e.g. adding another service or increasing the frequency interval from three weeks to two weeks).

Let me emphasize that we offer standing appointments to only our best clients (reliable, cooperative, appreciative, etc.). It’s as easy as saying: “I really enjoy doing your nails, but as my clientele grows, convenient appointments will be harder to schedule. I’d like to reserve a specific day and time just for you. What days and times work best?” Not all clients will be able to commit as their personal schedules may vary too much, and that’s understandable. We also value these “regular” clients because they nearly fill out the remaining time in our schedule, leaving very little time for walk-in clients. Both our brochure and website announce: “By invitation only, Precision Nails offers standing appointments in one-, two-, three-or four-week intervals. Clients with standing appointments receive scheduling priority and other valuable benefits.” There’s no monetary incentive involved; the incentive for the client should be securing the most convenient time on a consistent basis.

And speaking of incentives, I do not recommend discounts, ever. If getting busier (more clients, more appointments) is that important, you could advertise discounted (why not free?) services and convince yourself those clients will return and pay your regular prices later. However, being busy is not the same as being successful. The “regular” prices have no meaning when a salon continually offers discounts. In fact, the term “discount salon” is a common euphemism for a salon known for poor quality work at lower-than-average prices. Why would any beauty professional want to be associated with that? When manicurists discount their service prices, clients may discount their professionalism. I want clients who can readily afford to have their nails done, not those who need special pricing to justify the experience.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Giving Can Be Its Own Reward

2011-11-01T21:15:00.000-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, October 2011

Nearly every week at my salon, some “great opportunity” presents itself in the form of an advertising solicitation. The companies soliciting my business would have me believe that I need to spend money on advertising to be successful. From print to internet, from AdWords (Google) to Yelp, the options for gaining exposure seem limitless. However, having realized the limitations of traditional advertising (especially print) many years ago, I haven’t wasted my money. For example, when a local weekly paper contacted me to advertise in a special beauty section, I offered to write an article instead. That article, which advised consumers about selecting a reputable salon, proved much more useful to the paper, its readers and my business than any ad would have been. Sharing my expertise costs me nothing and has greater impact.

Instead of spending to advertise my salon, I prefer to give to promote my salon. One of the most rewarding ways to give is to contribute to worthy causes within the local community. Very few non-profit organizations have adequate resources to solicit donations from small businesses like mine. I make it easy for them by regularly scanning local papers and magazines for their announcements/advertisements. The words “auction” or “door prizes” usually catch my attention. I then contact the organizers to donate a $100 gift card, good for either products and/or services with no expiration date. Even if the upcoming event doesn’t include an auction or door prizes, I’ll donate anyway; organizations can always use gift cards to reward hard-working volunteers and staff members. If I have the time, I’ll drop off a gift card to the organizers for greater convenience; otherwise, I’ll arrange for it to be picked up. Either way, the presentation of a gift card must be attractive. My presentation, which costs less than $3.00, includes a custom plastic gift card in a metallic gift card box (labeled with the salon logo) placed in a metallic kraft paper bag (also labeled with the salon logo) with a brochure and tissue paper. (Instead of paying to have the salon logo hot-stamped on boxes and bags, I save money by buying custom-made labels that can be put on almost anything.)

In exchange for making a donation, my salon is listed in the event program, linked on the organizer’s website and later printed in newspaper/magazine ads thanking sponsors. I may not be able to afford $500-a-plate dinners, but my business can be represented to people who can. And that’s the point.

For tax purposes, I organize all my donation information in a binder filled with sheet protectors. Each event is contained in its own sheet protector, including the donation form and the confirmation/thank you letter confirming receipt. I also keep a spreadsheet updated with the gift card number, the amount, the name of the event, the name of the organization, its tax identification number, etc. Once a donation is made, the organizers know to contact me so I can donate again in the future.

To promote these organizations and their events, I share information with my clients. This encourages them to participate, either by attending, volunteering and/or making donations of their own. Likewise, I encourage clients to suggest organizations/events that I may not be familiar with. Given my work schedule, I don’t have much time to volunteer, but I do make an exception for the Sunset Center (www.sunsetcenter.org), a unique performing arts venue with a rich history in my town. In addition to my time, I also donate money to sponsor the program that’s distributed at all performances. This year, the Precision Nails advertisement will be double its previous size, and still will not include any special offers or discounts. The primary purpose of the ad is to demonstrate support for the Sunset Center, not attract new clients. The ad lets people know that money spent at my salon gets reinvested in our local community.

During past holiday seasons, I’ve shown appreciation to my best clients with gifts. Last year, after losing two clients to ALS (amyotrophic lateral sclerosis, also known as Lou Gehrig’s disease), I didn’t feel giving gifts to certain clients was appropriate. Instead, I donated that money to the ALS Association (www.alsa.org) on behalf of the salon to honor those two wonderful women. The client response to this decision was so affirming that I never plan to buy client gifts again. Each year, I’ll donate to an organization whose cause holds special significance.

You can give in many ways: your expertise, time, money, products, hosting and more. Whatever your interests (education, the arts, sports, health care, disaster relief, the environment, animal welfare, military/veterans, etc.), there are organizations in your local community that need and will appreciate your support. Which organizations you choose and how you support them, if at all, are very personal decisions. If I could make one suggestion, I urge you to consider organ donation. There’s no tax deduction or other financial benefit, but sometimes giving is its own reward. To become a donor in your state, register online at www.organdonor.gov.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Continuing (Mis) Education?

2011-10-01T08:00:00.000-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, September 2011

Whether your state requires continuing education or not, any discussion about it presumes that the basic education provided in beauty schools produces licensed manicurists capable of working competently and safely. If this were true, why do so many licensed manicurists lack basic skills and fail to follow heath and safety regulations? And if it's not true, what will a few hours of continuing education accomplish after hundreds of hours spent in beauty school? California, Oregon and Washington do not currently require continuing education, but in states that do like Ohio and Texas, are manicurists more informed and consumers safer?

Our careers as nail professionals begin with beauty school, where we can spend as few as 200 hours (Ohio) or as many as 600 hours (Oregon, Texas and Washington) to qualify for the licensing examination. These variations in time confirm the fundamental problem with time-based curriculums: the quantity of time is valued more than the quality of the instruction and the competency of the student. To suggest that beauty school students spend all their time in technical instruction and/or providing services (practical operation) defies reality. Beauty schools rarely devote more than 90 minutes to direct instruction during the day, nor can they possibly supply enough clients to keep students busy.

Some states have considered increasing the hours required in hopes of improving compliance and consumer safety. For example, California’s Board of Barbering and Cosmetology recently proposed an increase from 400 to 500 hours. As an expert educator, licensed salon owner and manicurist, I strongly opposed this proposal. Requiring more hours would likely discourage individuals from becoming students, produce a significant financial burden on those who do and unnecessarily delay their entry into this profession, without ANY guarantee of increased competence or consumer safety. Given the time already wasted in existing curriculums, why would school instructors need more time? Students could learn how to properly disinfect equipment, including what can and cannot be disinfected, in 60 minutes or less. The failure of licensees to follow health and safety regulations after they leave school suggests that either they didn’t learn what to do or weren’t convinced that it wasn’t optional.

As long as "nail care" is considered distinct from "health and safety,” students will dismiss the latter as unimportant when in fact it should inform everything they do. These are NOT separate subjects; beauty schools should teach nail care procedures based on acceptable health and safety practices. To be very simplistic, "nail care" is what licensed manicurists do, and "health and safety" is how it must be done. A well-designed manicuring curriculum must be based on scientifically accurate information and promote best practices, not perpetuate misinformation and low standards. I consider the competent performance of the following tasks fundamental to manicuring, regardless of "trends:"

shaping the nails (trimming, filing and buffing);
conditioning the skin surrounding the nail (eponychium, not "cuticle");
conditioning the skin of the hands and feet (exfoliating, moisturizing and massaging);
smoothing (not removing) calluses;
applying and removing polish;
applying and removing artificial nails, including natural nail repairs;
and most important, doing all of the above in a manner that protects the health and safety of consumers and the licensee.

Manicurists who have not been trained properly are more likely to deviate from accepted standards of practice, like performing pedicures on clients with questionable health conditions. While students, they likely worked on many elderly and/or unhealthy clients who should have been refused service and referred to a medical professional. It's unfortunate, and potentially very dangerous, that the most inexperienced practice on the most vulnerable with little or no direct supervision. Manicuring students need to understand the scope of practice of their future license, and how to determine who can safely receive nail services. Students should realize that making money is not worth risking a client’s health or losing their license.

In my experience as an expert witness, I’ve observed that many consumer complaints involve pedicures, but another common problem is the improper use of drills/electric files. In California, using a drill is not prohibited, but it’s not included in the manicuring curriculum or licensing examination either. If it were included, the thought of students practicing on clients without the proper training or supervision makes me wince! Given how many complaints arise from drill damage, this may be one of those instances where special certification through continuing education should be required, like in Colorado.

The exceptionally poor work done by some manicurists undermines our professionalism and poses a serious risk to consumers.The average consumer mistakenly believes that a manicuring license proves technical competence. Why do states allow incompetent individuals to obtain licenses? Has the focus on “safety” obscured the benefits of requiring licensees to demonstrate quality work? If we continue to accept mediocrity as our standard of practice, we will continue to produce an incompetent workforce incapable of meeting the demands and expectations of consumers.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Making Technology Work for You

2011-09-06T20:28:00.000-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, August 2011

While writing this article on my laptop, I’m willing to acknowledge that technology makes it possible. If I had to hand write, it just wouldn’t happen. I have neither the patience or time necessary to draft and edit using only pen and paper. And my handwriting isn’t all that legible anyways; there are times when even I cannot read my own notes. My typing skills aren’t much better than my hand writing, but at least I can read what I’ve typed.

The work of a licensed manicurist does not require any particular technology skills, but those skills are very relevant to the work of a salon owner. My responsibilities would be overwhelming if it weren’t for technology. There’s so much to do that I can rationalize my dependence on technology as productive rather than addictive. I manage my business using a smartphone, a laptop and desktop computers, printer/fax machine, internet access and numerous applications. All this technology gives me the control and functionality I need to:

Track finances
Pay bills
Report taxes
Communicate through email, texting, and phone calls
Design marketing materials
Plan travel to shows and other industry events
Promote our salon and services
Research new products, techniques and sources
Order supplies
Network with other businesses
Write content for articles, blog, etc.
Maintain a website
Develop and deliver presentations
Keep client and employee records
Schedule clients
Control inventory
Sell products online
Process credit card transactions
Donate to charitable organizations
Analyze performance reports

In my twenty years in the nail industry, technology has proven itself the best investment I’ve ever made in my business. While not infallible, overall it’s more reliable than most people I know, including myself. Choosing which technology to invest in, and how much time to spend using it, depends on your needs. Many years ago, while still working alone, I chose to make what most manicurists in my position would consider an unnecessary and expensive purchase, salon management software. After all, most salons at the time used large appointment books and pencils (and lots of erasers) to schedule clients. I don’t doubt that many salons till do, despite the obvious limitations. Even without any immediate plans to work with or employ other manicurists, I understood that I needed the same technology that larger, more successful salons use, and it was more affordable than I expected.

It’s not an exaggeration to say that salon management software transformed my business. Clients recognized that their money was being reinvested to improve their salon experience. The efficiency of the scheduling process was the most obvious improvement. No more counting every four pages to schedule a monthly standing, or hand-writing appointment cards. The software does just about everything (email appointment reminders, online scheduling, integrated credit card processing, gift card tracking, automatic remote data storage, etc.) except self check-out. Years later, as my business grows and the software evolves, I appreciate the technology even more.

Not every investment in technology has been worthwhile. When I designed my current salon, I had satellite radio receivers installed at each station so clients could listen privately wearing headphones. Music played throughout the salon on an additional receiver. What a waste of money! Clients wanted to interact us, not isolate themselves. So I ditched the service as soon as my contract expired and have been much more satisfied using Pandora on my computer. Sometimes simpler is better.

A simple and often underutilized technology, voicemail has replaced a receptionist in my salon. We don’t answer the salon phone while providing services because our clients deserve our full attention. However, just hearing a phone ring makes some people anxious, even when it’s not theirs. Last holiday season, I silenced the ringer to reduce disruptions. Not only did our clients seem more relaxed, we were too so the ringer has stayed off. We can discretely retrieve and respond to voicemail messages between clients. Existing clients know its best to schedule in advance and notify us of any changes via email. But potential clients don’t know any better, so a detailed outgoing message informs callers that we don’t answer the phone while providing services, and that more information about our salon and services can be found on our website.

Speaking of our website, it eliminates the need for any other advertising, as far as I’m concerned. Twenty years ago, I was paying the phone company for an ad in the Yellow Pages. Every year, I was encouraged to purchase a larger one, like it was some kind of contest. Thanks to technology, I haven’t paid for print advertising in more than 15 years. A well-designed and regularly updated website is the most cost-effective way to reach potential clients. If you don’t already have one for your salon, get one, but do yourself a favor, and have yours professionally done. Like most technology, you don’t need to understand how it works, just how to make it work for you.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Clients Behaving Badly

2011-08-08T08:04:00.000-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, July 2011

One of my most popular classes, “Clients Behaving Badly” begins with a simple, but powerful, statement: Bad clients are not worth having. If this class were an interactive discussion about the worst clients ever (read: bitch session), this statement would be considered a logical conclusion. However, the class does not focus on bad clients. Despite the title, I share strategies on building a clientele based on the premise that bad clients are not worth having. Clients form the foundation of your salon business; the stronger the foundation, the stronger your business.

Rather than entreat you, as many would, to provide better customer service, I encourage you to provide quality services to better customers. There are far more consumers/customers/potential clients than beauty professionals, and this gives us a tremendous advantage. That advantage is the power of choice. Choosing who to serve and who to refuse/refer elsewhere may seem incompatible with providing good customer service. But what’s truly incompatible is the misguided notion that we’re somehow obligated to serve/please everyone. No one can demand service from you, though some may treat you as if they could. That’s as absurd as the notion that the customer is always right. Your value as a beauty professional lies in your expertise; clients pay you for being right. When having the clients you want makes giving them what they want that much easier, why not actively pursue the ideal clients for your salon business?

“The purpose of a business is to create a mutually beneficial relationship between itself and those that it serves.” (John Woods). Many beauty professionals consider client relationships one of the most rewarding, yet most challenging, aspects of their work. Every client is a relationship; some will flame out within their first and only appointment, while others may last through hundreds of appointments over decades. It’s not reasonable to expect that every person who contacts your business will become one of your best clients. (Likewise, not every person you meet will become your best friend.) Communicating what your salon offers to and expects from clients encourages compatible potential clients to contact you, while discouraging others from wasting your time.

Building relationships requires effort and resources that should not be wasted on those who don’t respect you as a beauty professional. When reflecting on my own clientele, I keep this in mind: “I don’t build in order to have clients. I have clients in order to build.” (Ayn Rand). The following statement, posted several years ago to my salon website, summarizes my approach to client relationships:

We believe that receiving a salon service should be a safe and pleasant experience for the consumer. Conversely, we believe that the beauty professional providing the service also deserves a safe and pleasant experience. Our salon does not suit every consumer, nor does every consumer suit us. To be blunt, we will refuse service to those who do not.

After 17 years of providing nail services, we have more than enough experience to know who best suits us. Our ideal client exhibits these qualities:

insists on trained and licensed professionals;
respects our time;
expects a clean, organized salon environment;
appreciates quality more than convenience;
enjoys our salon experience;
schedules in advance;
values our professional opinions;
encourages our efforts to improve our skills;
supports our commitment to the beauty industry;
and refers family and friends.

Within an industry that treats consumers and professionals as disposable, Precision Nails thrives because we respect ourselves and value our clients, particularly our Preferred Clients (those with standing appointments).

As expected, this statement generated some insightful discussions and prompted some (less than ideal) clients to seek services elsewhere. Mission accomplished.

When clients behave badly, it’s time to question your judgment and evaluate your contribution to the problem. The reason why clients behave badly is very simple - because you let them. You continue to schedule them even as they arrive late or miss appointments entirely, criticize your work, complain about the price, etc. What’s the incentive for good behavior when you keep rewarding bad behavior? Serving your clients should make you feel good about yourself, professionally and personally. I sincerely hope that you wouldn’t tolerate an unhealthy professional relationship anymore than you’d tolerate an unhealthy personal relationship. You deserve better, but unless you’re willing to act, you’re not likely to get it.

My best advice for losing bad clients? Simultaneously change your schedule and raise your prices (even minor changes will do). If you haven’t already done so, develop salon policies and procedures and be prepared to enforce consequences. Give your clients at least a month’s notice that you’ll be canceling all future appointments to rebuild your new schedule. Reward your best clients by giving them priority as you fill your new schedule. Do NOT schedule bad clients; when they realize that you’re no longer willing to tolerate their behavior, they’ll go elsewhere. Who you choose to serve, and when, is your business, literally.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Nail Services in the Spa Environment

2011-07-06T16:05:00.000-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, June 2011

What role do nails play in the day spa industry? Apparently, not a very significant one. With the industry focused on skin care, massage, wellness, etc., nails don’t receive much attention. That’s obvious whether reading a typical menu of day spa services, or a list of exhibitors and classes at a spa show. Very few day spas target nail clients, and very few nail product manufacturers target day spas. This leads me to conclude that despite the popularity of professional nail care, nails may be the most neglected aspect of the day spa industry.

Many day spas attempt to function as both a spa and a full-service beauty salon (remember those?). How often do the words “spa and salon” appear together? Enough already. Typically, a day spa relegates its beauty services, like hair, nails, waxing and makeup, to the “salon” area of the facility. But it’s difficult, if not impossible, to maintain separate spa and salon areas, and have them impart the same sense of “spa.” Nail services performed at a day spa rarely offer an experience any different or better from what clients can experience at a traditional beauty salon. So why bother offering the services? And why would nail clients frequent a business that doesn’t prioritize what they want most?

Having attending numerous spa/beauty shows, I’ve concluded that spas, whether they be resort, destination or day, treat nail services as a necessity for guest convenience, but not as legitimate profit generators. There’s a presumption that while facial/massage/body treatments can command $2 per minute, if not more, nail services cannot. I could take offense that the time/training/skills of nail professionals are not regarded more highly within the day spa industry. (I have a hard enough time convincing nail professionals to charge at least a $1 per minute for themselves!) But as a salon owner who employs licensed manicurists to provide services in a clean, upscale salon environment, I’m grateful. It’s easier to compete when the competition doesn’t understand the market and its potential.

The word “spa,” when used, must be used with caution. Attaching “spa” to the name of any service or business raises client expectations, except when that word appears in neon. (Neon tends to lower my expectations, but increase my appetite.) But what exactly does the word “spa” mean anyway? Like so many words overused in the beauty industry, it lacks meaning. For me, it translates as more complicated, more time-consuming and more expensive, none of which appeals to me as a consumer.

Raising expectations can be a good thing, as long as they’re met. Clients would expect to pay more at a day spa than they would at a beauty salon, but they also expect a better quality service. But as most people would acknowledge, paying more does not guarantee a safer, or better service. The bottom line: any establishment that offers beauty services is required by law to meet minimum standards for health and safety, regardless of how much the services cost.

A salon does not need to be a spa to offer quality nail services. The environment does not ensure quality; it’s the professional performing the services that matters most. Nor does a salon need to make its services more “spa” to charge more. Adding unnecessary steps or overpriced products to the procedures does little to improve quality. It’s hard to justify increased service prices without commensurate results. For example, using expensive facial products for pedicures would likely do nothing except add to product costs, and lower the profit margin.

While spas advertise facials, massages and other treatments with elaborate descriptions, nail services often get a one-line mention as if everyone should know what to expect of a spa’s “signature” manicure or pedicure. Again, perhaps I should be grateful because if more detail were included, it may read something like this:

Your extremities collect stress that must be released to achieve optimal wellness/improve your mood/soothe your soul/balance your energy. Experience the ancient traditions of the [insert name of indigenous people here] who have passed along their unique nail care rituals for hundreds/thousands of years. Utilizing the incredible healing power of [insert name of indigenous plant/mineral or popular landmark here], our nail experts [read: any available employee] will revitalize/nurture/replenish/restore your hands and feet with our custom-blended, organic, natural products, available for use at home to extend your journey of enlightenment.

On a side note, it’s disappointing to realize that many spas have not moved beyond “gentleman’s” manicures and pedicures to gender-neutral services. Instead of being inclusive, which is no doubt the intent, naming services according to gender makes it seem somehow unnatural for men to have their hands and feet cared for/groomed.

In the future, day spas may realize the value of nail services for generating additional revenue and increasing client loyalty. In the meanwhile, I’m happy to share what I’ve learned about providing quality nail services at every spa/beauty show I attend.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

In Praise of Polish

2011-06-06T14:37:00.000-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, May 2011

If you hadn’t already noticed, nail color has made a tremendous comeback. The renewed focus on colorful nails owes much to the incredible popularity and abundance of colored gel and gel-polish products. These products promise no drying time because they light-cure, extended wear with no chipping and soak-off removal (more or less). Consumers have responded to clever marketing by contacting salons to request a “lacquer manicure,” or a “three-week manicure,” even when they don’t fully understand what the service entails. This trend has been so pervasive that brands known primarily for polish and natural nail products have launched their own gel lines. And while this may seem like bad news for polish manufacturers, the recent acquisitions of Essie by L’Oreal and OPI by Coty suggest otherwise. No doubt, the value of these professional brands lie in their growth potential beyond salons. And as expected, these brands have expanded their presence in retail and drug stores, competing alongside Sally Hansen (also owned by Coty) and other brands that consumers have had access to for years.

While these recent developments provide consumers many options, they also prompt professionals to question whether polish has lost its appeal as a salon service and product? I cannot answer this question for every salon owner or nail professional, but for me, the answer would be decidedly no. Polish is not the perfect product; an expert application can be a challenge for the professional, and the patience to let it dry, a challenge for the client. But after decades of reliable performance, polish remains an integral part of my professional nail services. What polish lacks in drying speed and durability, it more than makes up for in price, color range and ease of application and removal, with no additional equipment necessary. Moreover, just as my stylist friends don’t complain about the availability of hair coloring products, I won’t complain about the availability of polish. My clients still rely on my application skills, and they want to test colors before they purchase.

The minimal supplies I use to polish include nail wipes (non-woven sponges), pure acetone in a pump dispenser, base coat (needed for natural nails only), polish, top coat and a clean-up brush (my favorite: a #4 oval taklon). Application begins with removing any existing polish and/or oils from the nails using nail wipes moistened with acetone.

The speed and accuracy of my polish application depends largely on my positioning. I hold the client’s finger firmly from underneath with my left thumb and forefinger, the polish bottle in the palm of my left hand and the bottle cap/brush with my right thumb and forefinger. When removing the brush from the polish bottle, I wipe against the neck so that polish remains on one side of the brush only. For more precise brush placement, I extend my right pinky to rest against the three other fingers of my left hand. When placing the brush at the base of the nail, it’s my goal to have polish be close to, but not touching, the skin. Each stroke toward the edge of the nail should be smooth and straight, and slightly overlapping to cover the entire surface. The fewer the strokes, the better. Starting at the center of the nail and working toward either sidewall, or from one sidewall and working across to the other, is a matter of personal preference. (I happen to start on the left side and work toward the right.) While polishing, I prefer to gently rotate the client’s fingers than tilt my head.

After each layer of polish, I place that hand under a polish-drying fan that circulates room-temperature air while I polish the other hand. Drying between layers reduces the amount of time clients wait to dry at the end of the service. For sheer colors, I generally apply only one layer of color; for opaque colors, two thin layers provide better coverage. There should not be any excess polish on the underside of the nail, or on the surrounding skin. Before applying top coat, I use my clean-up brush dipped in acetone to perfect the perimeter of the polish. After top coat is applied, the client waits another 3-5 minutes under the polish-drying fans before leaving the salon.

That clients can, with varying degrees of competence, polish their own, or a friend’s, nails makes it ideal for retailing. Displayed attractively, polish virtually sells itself. Let your clients choose their favorite color from a well-stocked, dust-free retail display, rather than from the bottles you use to polish. At my salon, we stock a minimum of 3 bottles each of more than 200 different colors, arranged according to color. We store one bottle of every available color alphabetically in the back room for use during services. Clients can also request to test colors using these bottles. For testing purposes, we place a piece of clear plastic tape on the client’s hand and dab polish there instead of directly on their nails.

There’s no need or scientific reason to advise clients to purchase a bottle for salon use. Frightening clients about the possibility of cross-contamination is not a valid marketing strategy. If bacteria and fungus were able to thrive among polish ingredients and subsequently be transmitted to other clients, there might be cause for concern. However, this is not the case. According to research conducted by chemists Paul Bryson, Ph.D. and Doug Schoon, “nail polish quickly destroys microbes that are introduced into it. . . . When partially-used bottles of polish were repurchased from salons after actual use on multiple customers, examination by an independent lab showed no trace of microbial contamination whatsoever.” That’s bad news for microbes, but good news for those of us who love polish.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Being Green: What Does it Mean?

2011-05-07T22:18:00.000-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, April 2011

Judging by the increasing number of salons marketed as “natural,” “organic” and “eco-friendly,” the pressure to appear “green” must be immense. My salon appears green; I painted both the exterior and interior beautiful, complimentary shades. But besides being my favorite color, and in the context of a nail salon, what exactly does “being green” mean? I don’t ask this question facetiously; in fact, I struggle with the entire concept. While the intent may be admirable (protecting the environment, conserving resources, preserving health, etc.), this concept has been distorted and abused through misinformation and fear mongering. Now, more than ever, clients ask questions like, “Is your polish toxic?,” while some manufacturers go so far as to promote their 1`products as “chemical-free.” How do we nail professionals differentiate fact from fiction? And how do we reconcile our responsibility to protect our clients with a desire to protect the environment?

Lacking a definitive standard based on empirical evidence, the concept of being green deserves careful consideration. This requires knowledge beyond the basic education and training most manicurists receive. That’s why I’ve enlisted three of the nail industry’s most respected chemists, Paul Bryson, Ph.D., Jim McConnell and Doug Schoon to provide their scientific expertise.

All three experts agree that manicurists need to better understand the structure and function of nails. In brief, Doug Schoon advises, “Be a knowledgeable professional.” Although beauty school would be the obvious and ideal place to learn this information, that apparently does not happen for many students. As Schoon points out, “Most nail techs can't even name the parts of the nail . . . How can you address concerns when you don’t understand the basics?”

Furthermore, manicurists “need to educate themselves on the products they use,” emphasizes Jim McConnell. Professional nail products contain chemicals that have been proven safe when used according to manufacturer instructions. That being said, you should never ingest nail products, rub them into your eyes or otherwise use them inappropriately. Any manufacturer claiming that its products don’t contain chemicals is simply being dishonest. Bryson reminds us of basic science, “It's impossible to make a product that is ‘chemical free,’ since everything around us - water, air, plants, foods, etc. - is composed of chemicals.” Likewise, any manufacturer claiming better/safer products because they’re made from some unlikely, yet more “natural” ingredients, cannot be trusted. McConnell expresses his frustration when mentioning a UV gel product supposedly made from seaweed.

Despite decades of safe use, nail products still raise safety concerns, leading to questions like “What’s the most dangerous chemical used in nail salons?” Acetone is a common response. But contrary to what many manicurists and consumers believe, “acetone is one of the safest solvents that we can work with in the salon,” according to McConnell. Bryson describes acetone emphatically as “the safest and greenest polish remover! All the acetone substitutes either produce more photochemical smog, and/or are more hazardous. ‘Non-acetone’ polish remover has long been dishonestly marketed as a safer product, but in fact the reverse is true . . ." Bryson singles out methyl acetate as “the only non-acetone polish remover solvent still legal in California,” but warns that it “could cause death or permanent blindness if a child drank it! The few companies that sell it use a bitter tasting additive to prevent accidental ingestion."

What about formaldehyde in nail polish? Schoon addresses this controversial chemical in a must-read article, The Formaldehyde Myth (available at www.schoonscientific.com). “Formaldehyde is not a cosmetic ingredient and never has been,” he states. Bryson acknowledges the understandable confusion about formaldehyde: “one of the main resins in nail polish is called ‘Tosylamide-Formaldehyde Resin,’ which despite the name, is not the same chemical as formaldehyde. Specialty nail hardeners are another story - they contain a small, US FDA-permitted amount of a non-volatile, reaction product of formaldehyde and water - more properly known as methylene glycol - or they won't work. Confusingly, until recently, this substance had to be called ‘Formaldehyde’ on the label, which wrought much customer confusion as they wrongly assumed that nail hardeners posed a cancer risk.”

Schoon further cautions against allowing ourselves and our clients to think in terms of what’s most dangerous, “If you remove an ingredient, then the next one on the list becomes the ‘most,’ until you have no chemicals to list. It is more important to ask, what should we do in nail salons to ensure that all products are used safely?”

The following suggestions will help you create a healthier salon environment:

Protect the health and safety of yourself, your coworkers and your clients.
Keep your salon clean.
Follow applicable laws (state board, OSHA, etc.).
Install an effective ventilation system.
Read product labels and follow manufacturer’s instructions.
Learn about product chemistry.
Read product labels and follow manufacturer’s instructions.
Obtain MSDS on every product.
Store your products properly.
Limit your exposure by wearing gloves.
Wear protective eyewear.
Utilize disposable products when necessary.
Dispose of your waste safely.
Make the most of the resources you use.
Invest in bulk quantities.
Encourage manufacturers to reduce packaging waste.
Simplify your salon packaging and marketing materials.
Purchase adequate liability & property insurance.

For more information about nails, nail products and salon safety, read Doug Schoon’s book, Nail Structure and Product Chemistry, Second Edition (Milady, 2005) and visit the website, www.schoonscientific.com for relevant articles and publications from the Nail Manufacturers Council.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Competitive Pricing for Salon Success

2011-04-11T12:36:00.000-07:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, March 2011

“Nowadays, people know the price of everything and the value of nothing.”
Oscar Wilde

Spend any time in the beauty industry and you’ll soon recognize the first words of most potential clients: “How much is a (insert name of service here)?” Like most nail professionals, you instinctively answer with the price. But no matter what that number, the answer will be wrong. Why? Because without context, a mere number is essentially meaningless. It assumes that all services are created and delivered equally from salon to salon, and it cannot possibly capture the nature and quality of your service. Clients cannot appreciate the value of your work when they don’t understand what they’re paying for. It’s your responsibility to communicate that value.

Whether just starting your salon business, or reinventing an existing one, the decisions to be made can be overwhelming. One of the most important is how to structure and price your services. Overpricing will discourage potential clients initially, while underpricing will discourage you eventually. The only thing more frustrating than clients taking advantage is the realization that it’s your fault. Ideally, your service prices will strike just the right balance between being competitive (attractive to potential clients) and
providing adequate compensation (enabling you to earn a living doing what you love . . . nails!).

Important decisions related to service pricing require doing your research, but not the kind that you might expect. How many times have you been advised to contact other salons and ask about their pricing to determine your own? That’s just as useless as when a potential client asks the same question. If you want to make the common and misguided mistake of competing on price, then contact other salons. But what’s the point unless you also find out what their salon costs are? Few salon owners would be
willing to share that information, even if they knew.

Doing your research means accounting for your own costs:

Lease
Equipment and supplies
Utilities (telephone, water, gas and electric, etc.)
Outside/professional services (payroll, accounting, laundry, etc.)
Licenses (business and professional)
Insurance
Taxes (payroll, sales, property, etc.)
Marketing/advertising
Education
Professional memberships
Payroll, or your time if you work independently

These costs vary so widely from salon to salon that it’s imperative that you do this for yourself, and make every effort to reduce these costs whenever possible.

Even with this information, you’re not prepared to make good decisions. Considering that income generated from nail services depends on the active participation of service providers, time must be accounted for before pricing can be determined. The time required to complete the service should be minimized as much as possible to avoid wasting your time or your client’s. To maximize time (your greatest resource!), your services need to be structured deliberately to achieve the desired results: the
procedures organized step-by-step and the products and tools selected for each step. Every procedure, product and tool should be evaluated for its safety, efficiency and cost-efficiency.

For every service, you need to calculate the product cost, including both disposables (files, gloves, nail wipes, etc.) and consumables (polish, lotion, acetone, gel, etc.). Once calculated, that number. along with the time required to complete the service can be used in the following formula:

Product Cost + $1/minute = Service Price (Round up to the nearest $5 increment.)

For example, our pedicure costs $3 in product and takes 45 minutes. Our service price is $3 + $45 = $48, but rounded up to $50. The product cost percentage is $3/$50 = 6%. Ideally, the product cost should be lower than 10%; otherwise, that service may not be worth offering.

Before you question the feasibility of earning at least a $1/minute, let’s discuss. For nail professionals who believe that clients in their particular area won’t pay $1/minute, ask yourself what the standard hourly rate is for massage. Given your diverse skills and significant investment in education, equipment and supplies, your work should be worth at least the equivalent of that of a massage therapist. And for nail professionals who don’t think they can charge $90 for a pink and white backfill just because it takes 90 minutes, they’re right. What’s taking so long? Every service offered should be doable in an hour or less. Developing your skills and being more efficient will reduce the time required and move you closer to that $1/minute minimum.

To market your services, publish enticing service descriptions that detail what’s included, the time allowed and the price. Your salon policies (appointments, cancellations, payment options, etc.) also need to be explained in writing. Despite the accessibility of the internet, salons still need something tangible to present to potential clients, so a brochure is a must. When asked about your service prices, whether in person, by email or phone call, be prepared to ask some questions to determine which service, if any, best meets the client’s needs and to focus on its value, not the price.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

What Should be Hot for 2011

2011-03-12T20:16:00.000-08:00

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, February 2011

It’s hard to predict where the nail industry will trend. Years ago, who would have anticipated the incredible popularity of gel polish, or the total absurdity of fish pedicures? The fact that gel polish has become a trend, while fish pedicures have not, suggests that some changes are embraced and others rejected for a reason. When evaluating a new product, service, technique or business practice, I consider whether it advances my professionalism, provides a workable solution to an existing problem and serves as a safer, more efficient and cost-effective alternative to my present choices. These criteria help me make informed decisions for my own salon, but does not make me any more prescient. So rather than attempt to predict trends for the nail industry, here’s my wish list for 2011.

Despite the expedience and cost savings associated with using dirty files, tools and foot spas, nail professionals will take responsibility to follow the health and safety rules. Being “clean” will become the norm, rather than the anomaly it is currently. Voluntary compliance will protect consumers, increase our professionalism and reduce the need for enforcement. Our state boards have enough to do without the added burden of dealing with licensees who know better, but choose to act irresponsibly.
Consumer outreach will reinforce the value of our training and licensure, so that consumers will demand quality services from licensed professionals in licensed establishments only. Unlicensed activity will decrease and average service prices will increase when consumers no longer compromise their health and safety for low prices.
Beauty schools will fulfill their mission of education by hiring competent instructors, providing an adequate supply of professional products and preparing students for success beyond licensure. The significant number of hours spent in school will be utilized optimally to train students on current techniques and best practices, including proper sanitation. Students will have ample opportunity to perform services on real clients rather than on plastic practice hands.
In addition to teaching technical skills, beauty schools will teach students about the legal rights and responsibilities associated with being a salon owner, an employer, an employee and/or booth renter. Salon owners will compensate their employees legally or treat their booth renters as the independent businesses they are, whichever is applicable. More professionals will protect their business/financial interests with the appropriate insurance coverage (liability, property, workers’ compensation, etc.).
Beauty professionals (including unlicensed salon owners) will claim ALL their income and pay their taxes. Failing to do so demonstrates a blatant disregard for the law and disrespect for the beauty industry. Unfair competition undermines our professionalism and our industry can longer afford to be any part of the underground economy.
Nail professionals will eagerly participate in continuing education, whether it’s required or not. Given the inconsistent (and that’s being generous) quality of beauty school education, all post-licensure education could be considered remedial. But given the immediacy and accessibility of information, particularly via the internet, there’s no excuse for being uninformed. In addition to accessing industry sources, you’ll read consumer sources to be aware of (mis)information your clients will undoubtedly encounter. Your clients should never be telling you what’s new; that’s your job.
Participation in beauty shows and networking events will reach record numbers, much to the delight of event organizers, manufacturers and educators who invest hundreds of thousands of dollars in showcasing their products. While attending these events, beauty professionals will conduct themselves appropriately, including dressing the part.
Rather than sensationalize the negative, misrepresent the facts and scare consumers, the media will rely on beauty industry experts when presenting stories about professional nail care. If a story can’t be done without satisfying the journalism standards of accuracy, fairness, accountability, etc., it shouldn’t be done at all because we don’t need that kind of publicity.
The words “spa,” “natural,” “organic” and “green” will lose favor as consumers and beauty professionals will realize how overused and meaningless these words have become. Giving too much credence to these words may be hazardous to your credibility, if not your health.
Manufacturers will present their products with integrity, rather than mislead with buzzwords and marketing speak. As product consumers, we have the right to know what ingredients products contain and a responsibility to use them safely and effectively. We should know where the science ends and the marketing begins, and not cross that line with our own clients.
Manufacturers of professional products will renew their commitment to salon professionals, through education, research and inventory control. If the term “professional” means anything at all, it suggests that these products are of a higher quality and that professionals use these products in salons to achieve optimum results. If it’s only a marketing term to appeal to consumers, then it’s meaningless.

Most trends within the nail industry start in the salon, so start your own trend for 2011 by being the best nail professional you can be.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.