Plants & Garden

Popular Evergreen Hedges

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Thu, 12 Jan 2012 16:59:00 +0000

Evergreens make wonderful, quick hedges and privacy screens. When planting, zig-zag your trees to give a fuller effect and to allow the trees to get air and sun. This will also help the hedge give with the wind, preventing breakage and wind tunnels. It’s wise to plant more than one variety of evergreen in a border, so that disease and pests won’t destroy the whole planting.Passing kids, nosy neighbors, wandering drunks, escaping pets, there are many different reasons for fencing your yard but it is quite expensive to fence your whole yard and lets be honest there are more natural and economic ways to get some privacy against prying eyes. A solution with evergreen hedge plants is much better way, it is much more natural, usually it will be less expensive and it is also more effective in the long run. Full grown hedge plants are very effective to keep out intruders and it is stronger then a series of coiled barbed wire.

The effectiveness of the hedge is depended on the size of the hedge plants, if you are on a tight budget, you will probably buy small sized plants because they are much cheaper then the bigger ones. This way it will take you longer before your hedge plants have grown to a size where your privacy is taken care of. But there is a combination solution for this problem. There are cane fences that will last just a few years that can provide you with the necessary privacy in the time your hedge plants are growing. They are very cheap and are a good useful solution for this problem.

When you have a bigger budget you can decide to take bigger hedge plants and you can decide to plant them yourself or to hire a professional. But before you decide you first need to take a decision about the kind of plants you are going to buy.

Soil Type is important

If you are smart you choose evergreen hedge plants that grow well in your area, the ones more native to your area will grow best and will be more resistant against diseases and weather conditions. But not every area has a wide variety native evergreen hedge plants to choose from and when this is the case you need to buy a soil kit and determine your soil type. (sand, chalk, moist, dry) When you have determined the soil type you can choose hedge plants that thrive well there.

Popular evergreen hedge plants are privet,yew and boxwood but there are many other plants to choose from and you can also combine different plants if you like a more natural look and feel.

It depends on budget and time

Planting hedge plants is not difficult but it is time consuming and hard work, because you need to dig a lot of holes. So it depends on your budget and on your health if you decide to hire a professional or if you do it yourself. If you have a bad back, we would advice to hire someone.

If you decide to do this job yourself it is best to put some stakes in the ground and run a clothesline tightly over the ground where the plants should be planted. This way your hedge will be reasonably straight.

Next you need to calculate the amount of plants you are going to need, this depends on the full grown size the plant will have eventually and you need to do some research on the plant you have chosen. In general, you need to keep at least two feet between the plants.

Now you have what you need, you need to dig a trench all along the line where the hedge is coming. And you need to dig in that trench of two feet wide and four inches deep bigger holes for the individual plants, these wholes need to be twice as big as the root balls. When you have placed the plants in the wholes you need to water them and close the holes and the trench.

As you can see it is a lot of hard work but it is so much more rewarding to have a natural hedge instead of the expensive fences you see everywhere around you.

1. Boxwood (Buxus)
Long a European favorite, boxwood respond very well to pruning and shaping. Besides making great hedges, boxwoods are a favorite tree for topiary. The tiny, evergreen leaves remain tidy when clipped. Korean boxwood is proving hardier than the English varieties. Prune in late spring, as new growth darkens. USDA Zones 5-8, H & S varies with species, Full sun to partial shade.

2. Yew (Taxus baccata)
Makes a dense hedge that responds well to pruning. Overgrown yew hedges can often be restored by hard pruning in late winter. Many yews used for foundation plantings remain squat. T. baccata grows to 6' tall and 16' wide, making it great for hedging. The uniformity of a yew hedge makes a great wall for enclosed gardens. Slow to medium grower. USDA Zones 5/6 - 8, H - 6', S - 10-16', Full sun to partial shade.

3. Arborvitae ‘Green Giant’ (Thuja ‘Green Giant’)
Introduced by the U.S. National Arboretum. Grow in almost any soil conditions, from sand to clay. Pyramid shape and requires no pruning. Pest resistant, even deer resistant. For a quick hedge or windbreak, plant 5 - 6' apart. For a more gradual hedge, plant 10 - 12' apart. Fast growers. Prune to shape, before spring growth. USDA Zones 2 - 10, H - 60', S - 20', Full sun.

4. Holly (Ilex)
Popular for their glossy green leaves, and bright red berries. Hollies look best if kept trimmed and full. Only the females set berries, but you’ll need a male to cross pollinate. There are some new varieties that don’t require 2 sexes. Hollies prefer an acidic soil and the addition of peat or garden sulfur may be necessary. The American holly is more widely adaptable than the English. Medium grower. Plant 2 - 4' apart. USDA Zones 5 - 9, H - 6-10', S - 5-8', Full sun to partial shade.

5. Firethorn (Pyacantha coccinea)
Firethorn can be a bit unruly, but it still looks striking in the landscape. Evergreen with white flowers in spring and orange-red berries from summer into winter. Popular for Christmas decorations. Drought tolerant. Plant 3 - 4' apart. Fast growers. Prune if necessary, after flowering. USDA Zones 5/6 - 9, H - 8-12', S - 3-5', Full sun to partial shade.

6. Leyland Cyprus (x Cupressocyparis Leylandii)
Columnar evergreen with flat scale-like leaves. Makes a tough privacy/wind screen that is salt tolerant. Many new cultivars are being bred for bluer color, variegation and more feathery foliage. Fast grower. Prune to shape, as new foliage deepens in color USDA Zones 5 - 9, H - 60-70', S - 15-20, Full sun.

7. Variegated Japanese Laurel (Aucuba japonica ‘Variegata’) aka Gold Dust Tree
Leathery pale bright green leaves mottled with yellow variegation make this tree a standout, especially when used to light up a shady area. ‘Variegata’ is a female and requires a male for pollination, to produce red berries. Good choices include ‘Mr. Goldstrike’ and ‘Maculata’. Prefers a moist soil, but can handle periodic dry spells. Slow Grower. Prune in early spring to summer. USDA Zones 6 -9+, H - 6-9', S - 3-5', Partial shade to full shade.

8. Cotoneaster
The most popularly grown cotoneaster, C. horizontalis (Rockspray Cotoneaster) only gets about 3-5' tall. However two species, C. lucidus and C. divaricatus, grow to 6 - 10' & 5 - 6' respectively. Both can be grown into a hedge with minimal pruning. Both have pink spring flowers and colorful fall foliage. Slow to medium growers. Prune after fruiting. USDA Zones: C. lucidus 6 - 8, C. divaricatus 4 - 7, Full sun to partial shade.

9. Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina domestica)
Nandinas are popular in the Southern US, where their fall/winter berries are the most striking. However Nandinas are tougher than their delicate foliage would suggest. White spring flowers come in Hydrangea-like panicles and are followed by bunches of red berries. The foliage blushes red for fall and winter. Medium to fast grower. Prune before new growth. USDA Zones 6 - 9, H - 5-7', S - 3- 5', Full sun.

10. Ligustrum (Privet)
A classic hedge plant, not all privets are evergreen. The dense foliage responds extremely well to pruning. Most have white summer flowers followed by black berries. Privet are very adaptable and will grow in just about any conditions. Fast growers. Prune after flowering. USDA Zones vary 3/6 - 7/8, H - to 15', S - 5-6', Full Sun to shade.

Vine plant and Arbor

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Sat, 24 Dec 2011 17:59:00 +0000

Vine

Vine plants, known by the name of passion flowers or passion vines, where there are 500 types of species that have interest and entered into the family Passifloraceae. Some of them propagate among the trees, shrubs and some that could be made for drugs. In tropical climates this plant is often found.
This very beautiful plant when we set it in the garden area of our homes or gardens. In addition to this plant is easy to adapt, fast growing and easy to care for her ....
Now how to take advantage of our home page with these plants. There are many examples of the arrangement of this plant for example, was hanged in pots, placed in wooden houses or attached to the wall. But taukah you in choosing the type of plants that are suitable for our home page? Actually there is no fixed rule in the choice of plants of this type, it all depends on your taste heuhuheuhueheuh respectively. But with some experience I've ever had and some people I've given advice. They can feel things more. Maybe my suggestion can petrify you in laying out these vines.
If you want to plant in front yard planting berbungan one who will feel the spirit of light due to the viewer.
Choose a bright berbungan vines such as:
1. Bignonia
Cross the vines is one of the first red, trumpet shaped flowers to greet returning hummingbirds in early spring. The related trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans) is similar, but climbs with ivylike aerial roots instead of tendrils and blooms later in the summer. Plant the two together, and you and the hummingbirds will of tubular flowers have colored flame from the which to feed from early spring and throughout the summer.

2. Coral vine Antigonon leptopus
Plant the which need at least A Few hours a day of solar light. We suggest growing the The Coral vine In the house or in a warmed greenhouse; Pls the minimum temperatures go past 15 ° C it is possible to develop outside.To Move Them to Their best, climber plants need grates, or They can be placed near a wall, the which functions as a support.

3. Bougainvillea Paperflower
Plant the which need at least A Few hours a day of solar light. During this time of year We should not worry about minimum temperatures, in fact the The Paperflower can bear temperatures A Few degrees below zero.To develop to Their best, climber plants need grates, or They can be placed near a wall, the which functions as a support.

But if you want a little relaxation with family in the garden of the house you select a few clams or color is not too flashy so that you feel more relaxed.
1. Morning glory
is a fast-growing, Twining annual with heart-shaped light to mid-green leaves and vibrantly colored, funnel-shaped flowers to 3 inches across. White-colored cultivars include 'Pearly Gates'; 'Heavenly Blue'; crimson-colored, white-throated 'Crimson Rambler'; and 'Flying Saucers', a batik-looking blend of white and blue accented by a golden throat.

2. Asarina scandens
A half-hardy perennial, this sophisticated climber grows to 8 feet tall. It has a profuse show of 1.5-inch indigo, violet, pink, or white flowers. It's great for the cold greenhouse or conservatory, and Will Often bloom until the end of the year Unless there is a hard frost.

3. Passiflora caerulea
This plant produces 3 - to 4-inch-diameter, slightly scented flowers sporadically During summer, Increasing in late summer through autumn. Intricate blossoms have an outer ruffle of petals and sepals; an inner disc of filaments composed of rings of blue, white and purple; and a central "antenna." Deeply lobed dark green leaves cover stems That grasp supports with tendrils. Blue passion flower can reach 10 feet tall in one season. The ovoid, orange-yellow fruit is edible.
Care: Often grown as a houseplant, it can also be grown as an annual outdoors. Grow in a greenhouse border or in containers. Or set outdoors in moderately fertile, moist but well-drained soil. Shelter from cold, drying winds.
The selection seems arbor will also be great ... but if u wanna to mix theres nothink wrong heuheuhuehuehue.
If you order memimilih arbor that has rarely (remote), select vines broadleaf or trunked wide because of this, do not cover up the beauty of the frame arbor and vice versa.
Here's my arbor design. But not finished it all ... ...

simple arbor

mix on top arbor

dooms arbor

Enjoy you're garden
source
http://www.floridata.com/ref/b/bignon_c.cfm
http://www.gardening.eu/
http://www.finegardening.com

How to Minimal Maintenance Garden

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Sat, 24 Dec 2011 16:15:00 +0000

Garden is space to give you refreshing and relaxing family. Do not make your ganden even to make you feel burdened, cause the style of your plant not relevant and need more extra care and hard to maintained. If you have little time to maintenance garden, consider trying to make a low maintenance garden. This is the park where you just need to spend a little time in taking care of the park. With minimal maintenance garden, you can also go on vacation in a week or more without the worry of the park would be damaged. Here are some tips on designing a slick minimal garden care.

1. Use of gravel and stones
Parks dikreasi minimal treatment often using various gravel, rocks, or coral. The combination of stone and kerikit are arranged according to a specific path or randomly arranged to reduce your intensity to maintain the plant. Arrangement of gravel and stones can be incorporated into the order steppingstone.
Problems often arise if the gravel is laid out fairly dense growth of wild grass or weeds. The solution, install weed block on the ground, then put gravel on it. Furthermore, between the land so a place to put gravel filled with thick plastic plants are limited. aims to prevent weeds from growing more and more.

2. Plant low maintenance
In principle, if the crop is planted in areas suitable for the growth of the care required is not too complicated. Therefore, the selected plants need to be adapted to the climate or weather condition of the park where you are. drought resistant plants such as aloevera, Adenium, or other succulent include minimal maintenance and fit combined with a variety of rocks or gravel. As a border, you can choose plants such as iris. Can be used for ground cover that fits a mini elephant grass grown in hot areas, whereas for a somewhat shady area can be selected chives.

3. Use the grass
Meet the park or open area with grass is also an option to park not too much need for intensive care. Simply flush every day so the grass is always green. Fertilization also is conducted every three months. In order to reduce the impression of monotony in the grass, you can create a gravel bed on the grassy land. How, first mark the area for gravel bed according to the desired shape. For example a box, oval, or circle. Then dig the soil according to the form that had made it. Put the gravel in the gravel bed was. If necessary add a few rocks or plants to beautify.

4. Playing the design on the floor
Giving more space to pavement on the floor of the park can also reduce maintenance garden. If the park is located outside the home are easily exposed to rain, you should create a floor design that is still able to absorb water. In order to remain functional pavement to absorb water, select the appropriate material. For example paving blocks. Play with paving design can be done by managing the paving pattern. Examples of paving patterns that can be used include herringbone, stretcherbond, or basket weave. Play designs can also be done by selecting the shape and color of the different pa-Ving. Design floor garden can also be selected from the fabric or wood decks. If the wood is selected accordingly and coated materials that can make it durable, wood decks can look attractive and durable.

5. Give decorations on the walls
Provide more touch hard materials can indeed make the garden low maintenance because it reduces the intensity of plant maintenance.Tapi, often lack the plant can make the garden seem monotonous. To reduce it, you can give a decorative touch to the garden wall. For example, by giving a "window" on the garden wall. The window that lets you have the view to see the outside of the park. Can ping by presenting a statue or sculpture in the garden wall as a focal point, and then made dekoran wall as a focal point of the frame. Installing the sandstone carvings on the walls can also beautify the park. You can also make arrangements dekoran stone wall with paste or arrowroot with stones of different colors.

6. Arrange the plants in pots
Order of the pots containing plants can be used to display a minimal garden care. Garden pots neatly arranged can give freshness in your home. In addition to plant varieties that are used can vary, you can also easily change the arrangement so as not to get bored. A wide size of the pot lets you be creative with the appropriate placement. For example, displaying a small pot containing the plant near a window, or setting up a ladder near the entrance of the house, and so on. But, you need to choose suitable plants grown in pots. If plants can grow bigger, you can control its growth with regular pruning. Trimming the canopy can control root growth. Besides using pots, minimal garden care can also be designed to create a container of fabric exposed brick or cement. Many forms, such as circle, square, triangle, and so on. Container containing these plants can be combined with an appropriate order hardmaterial park. By using containers you can focus to keep the plant more easily.

have a nice try

Tropical Poisonous Flower

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Fri, 15 May 2009 16:16:00 +0000

Vegetation helps sustain life. We eat many plants, herbs and so forth in our daily diet. But, we must remember to be choosy. Some plants, trees or shrubs are potential killers of man. Some part of the ornamental plants or flowers in your yard may contain deadly poison. Many poisonous plants are so common and seemingly innocuous you do not suspect their toxic qualities.

For example, who would expect that the beautiful oleander bush-grown indoors and outdoors all over the country-contains a deadly heart stimulant, similar to the drug digitalis?
It is easy to be deceived by plants. . .one part may be edible while another is poisonous. The following chart lists some of the more common poisonous plants.
read more Poisonous Plants

Name
Indonesia: Alamanda Inggris: golden-trumpet, common allamanda
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)
Subclass: Asteridae
Order: Gentianales
Family: Apocynaceae
Genus: Allamanda
Species: Allamanda cathartica L.
Description
Perdu plants, long-lived (perenial), can achieve a high + / - 4 m. Roots upside. Wooden trunks, astigmatism, eared, green color, smooth surface, monopodial branching, branches droop direction. Single leaf, frame short, structured face-to-face (folia oposita), green color, ellipse shape, length 5 - 15 cm, width 2 - 5 cm, leaf blade thick, the ends of the base and taper (acuminatus), average edge, top and bottom surfaces smooth, sticky compound flowers, bunches of (racemus), appears in the armpit and the tip of the leaf stem, funnel-shaped crown (infundibuliformis) - yellow, crown length 8 - 12 mm, corolla sticky (gamopetalus) Fruit box (capsula), rounded , the length of + / - 1.5 cm, the form of a triangle with the bean, pale green when young - after the old black be generative breeding (seed), vegetative (stek).

Name
Indonesia: Lidah buaya Inggris: Aloe, Medicinal aloe Cina: lu hui
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Liliopsida (Monocotyledons)
Order: Asparagales
Family: Asphodelaceae
Genus: Aloe
Species: Aloe vera L.
Description
Aloe is a succulent, and grows to a height of 12 to 16 inches. It has a fibrous root system producing long, tapering, stemless leaves. These light green leaves have spiky margins and are blotched with cream. The firm upright stems bear several bell-shaped, fleshy, yellow-orange flowers.

Name
English:Madagascar periwinkle, rose periwinkle Indonesian:Tapak dara, rutu-rutu, kembang serdadu Malay:kemunting cina Vietnamese:hoa hai dang Chinese:chang chun hua
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)
Subclass: Asteridae
Order: Gentianales
Family: Apocynaceae
Genus: Catharanthus
Species: Catharanthus roseus (L.) G. Don
Description
Is a species of Catharanthus native and endemic to Madagascar. Synonyms include Vinca rosea (the basionym), Ammocallis rosea, and Lochnera rosea; other English names occasionally used include Cape Periwinkle, Rose Periwinkle, Rosy Periwinkle, and "Old-maid". In the wild, it is an endangered plant; the main cause of decline is habitat destruction by slash and burn agriculture. It is also however widely cultivated and is naturalised in subtropical and tropical areas of the world. It is an evergreen subshrub or herbaceous plant growing to 1 m tall. The leaves are oval to oblong, 2.5–9 cm long and 1–3.5 cm broad, glossy green, hairless, with a pale midrib and a short petiole 1–1.8 cm long; they are arranged in opposite pairs. The flowers are white to dark pink with a darker red centre, with a basal tube 2.5-3 cm long and a corolla 2–5 cm diameter with five petal-like lobes. The fruit is a pair of follicles 2–4 cm long and 3 mm broad.

Name
English:Indian suicide tree, grey milkwood, pong pong tree, sea mango Indonesian:Bintaro, kayu susu, kenyen putih, koyandan, mangga prabu, mangga laut
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)
Subclass: Asteridae
Order: Gentianales
Family: Apocynaceae
Genus: Cerbera
Species: Cerbera odollam Gaertn.
Description
The fruit, when still green, looks like a small mango, with a green fibrous shell enclosing an ovoid kernel measuring approximately 2 cm × 1.5 cm and consisting of two cross-matching white fleshy halves. On exposure to air, the white kernel turns violet, then dark grey, and ultimately brown or black. The plant as a whole yields a milky white latex.

Name
English:Croton Indonesian:Puring
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)
Subclass: Rosidae
Order: Euphorbiales
Family: Euphorbiaceae
Genus: Codiaeum
Species: Codiaeum variegatum Bi.
Description
Croton sylvaticus is a tree growing up to 30 m tall, with a dense spreading crown, bole straight, up to 1 m in diameter. Bark smooth on young branches; stems grey, roughly fissured and strongly aromatic. Leaves simple, broadly ovate, alternate, smooth and dark green; 3-5 nerved, leaf margin shallowly toothed; leaf tip acuminate, base cuneate, rounded or subcordate, 5-15 cm long and up to 10 cm wide. Leaf stalk 10 cm long with 2 prominent knob-like glands at junction of stalk and leaf blade. Flowers 3 mm long, cream coloured; placed on long terminal inflorescences up to 20 cm long, male flowers at top and female flowers at lower part of inflorescence. Male flowers are petalled. Fruit a 3-seeded short stalked capsule; 1 cm long, surface slightly warted and salmon orange. The scientific names summed up mean the ‘woodland croton’.

Name

English:Crown-of-thorns Indonesian:Mahkota duri, pakis giwang, Chinese:Tie hai tang
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)
Subclass: Rosidae
Order: Euphorbiales
Family: Euphorbiaceae
Genus: Euphorbia
Species: Euphorbia milii Ch.Des Moulins
Description
Habitat: scrub, annual, erect, 40-80 cm high. Stem: having sides, rounded, sharp thorns meeting, spine 3-5 cm long, branching meeting, sticky, gray brown. Leaf: Single, the end of the rod, sit bcrseling, short stalk, leaf blade shape oval or oval, base and spike, flat edge, 3-5 cm long, 1,5-2 cm wide, smooth, fin bone, green. Flowers: compound, located in the armpit leaves, umbrella shape, the mother flower stalk 5-10 cm long, red-purple color, blade sheath 2, the form of a kidney, smooth, 8-13 mm long, color red, the fruit will stay, stamen and pistil form a prism, the length of 1-2 mm, red, blade crown 5, 1-2 mm long, ravel, red. Fruit: Grid. the form of rounded, small, white greenness. Seed: shape rounded, small, yellowish brown. Roots: fibrous, blackish brown.

Name
English:Poinsettia, christmas flower Indonesian:Kastuba, puring benggala, denok, pohon merah, kigeulis (Sunda), racunan (Jawa) Chinese:Yi ping hong, ye xiang hua
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)
Subclass: Rosidae
Order: Euphorbiales
Family: Euphorbiaceae
Genus: Euphorbia
Species: Euphorbia pulcherrima Willd. ex Klotzs
Description
Poinsettias are shrubs to small trees, typically reaching a height of 0.6 to 4 m (2 to 16 ft). The plant bears dark green dentate leaves that measure 7 to 16 cm (3 to 6 in) in length. The top ves, known as bracts, are flaming red, pink, or white and are often mistaken as flowers. The actual lowers are the small yellow structures found in the center of each leaf bunch, which are called Cyathia. Cultivars have been produced with orange, pale green, cream and marbled leaves. There are over 100 varieties of poinsettias available, but 74% of Americans still prefer red poinsettias, 8% prefer white, and 6% prefer pink (The Poinsettia Pages, University of Illinois Extension).

Name
English:copper plant, red spurge, poison spurge Indonesian:Herba mala
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)
Subclass: Rosidae
Order: Euphorbiales
Family: Euphorbiaceae
Genus: Euphorbia
Species: Euphorbia cotinifolia L
Description
Deciduous or semi-evergreen shrub; leaves alternate, simple; flowers very fragrant, lilac to rose-purple or white, 2-3 per cluster and developing before the leaves; fruit a red or yellow drupe.

Name
English:Glory lily Indonesian:Kembang sungsang
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Liliopsida (Monocotyledons)
Subclass: Liliidae
Order: Liliales
Family: Liliaceae
Genus: Gloriosa
Species: Gloriosa superba
Description
A scandent plant, climbing by leaftip tendrils. The perianth segments, which are accrescent during anthesis and become reflexed, are striking in color, yellow proximally and at margins and dark red in the median portion Height: 60-72 inches.

Name
English:Bottle palm Indonesian:Palem botol
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Liliopsida (Monocotyledons)
Subclass: Arecidae
Order: Arecales
Family: Arecaceae
Genus: Hyophorbe
Species: Hyophorbe lagenicaulis (L.H.Bailey) H.E.Moore
Description
Its height can vary from 40 to 70 feet, and branched reach up to 15 feet across, with a crown of piky fronds. Individual leaves may measure more than 36 inches in width.Bottle palms are very cold sensitive and are killed at 32°F (0°C) or colder for any appreciable length of time. They may survive a brief, light frost, but will have foliage damage. Bottle Palm (Hyophorbe lagenicaulis) 25 Gallon - 5' + - Gets its name from the bloated trunk, which resembles a bottle. Needs full sun and lots of warmth.

Name
English:lantana, shrub verbena Indonesian:Tahi ayam, tembelekan, telekan Malay:Tahi ayam
Classification
Kingdom:Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)
Subclass: Asteridae
Order: Lamiales
Family: Verbenaceae
Genus: Lantana
Species: Lantana camara L.
Description
Introduced. A shrub with cream, yellow, or pink flowers, usually aging to orange or red, clustered into multicolored heads. Flowers: 1/2", with 4 unequal lobes. May bloom year-round. Leaves ovate, toothed, rough-hairy. Fruit 1/3", berry-like, metallic blue. Height: 5' (1.5 m).

Name
English:beauty of the night, marvel of P Indonesian:Bunga pukul empat
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)
Subclass: Hamamelidae
Order: Caryophyllales
Family: Nyctaginaceae
Genus: Mirabilis
Species: Mirabilis jalapa L.
Description
The form of small trumpet-like flowers with a length of 2 to 10 cm shocking pink color, white, or a mixture of both colors and yellow. Flowers bloom in the evening. The yellow fragrant fragrant.Height: 60-90 cm
Leaf arrangement: opposite/sub opposite
Leaf shape: ovate
Leaf margin: serrate
Leaf venation: pinnate
Leaf blade length: 2-7 cm
Leaf blade width: 1-4 cm
Leaf color: green
Flower characteristic: year-round flowering
Fruit characteristic: inconspicuous and not showy
Sun exposure: full sun, or partial shade
Propagation Methods: from seed

Name
English:oleander Indonesian:Bunga jepun, jure (Snd), bunga anis, padendang, oleander Chinese:jia zhu tao
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)
Subclass: Asteridae
Order: Gentianales
Family: Apocynaceae
Genus: Nerium
Species: Nerium oleander L.
Description
Is a woody shrub or small tree ranging in height from 5 to 25 feet. When allowed to grow naturally it produces a large number of stems and forms a dense clump, but occasionally plants are trimmed to a single large trunk with a much-branched crown. The bark on young stems is smooth and green, but older branches and trunks are gray and roughened by many raised lenticels. The numerous short-stalked leaves are borne in pairs or more often in whorls of 3 around the twigs. The leaf-blades are simple, narrow, evergreen, leathery, pointed at the tip, dull dark green above with a prominent lighter colored midrib. They are 3 to 10 inches long and smooth on the margin. The leaves usually turn yellow before falling and the leaf-scars are prominent on twigs and branches.The flowers, produced in early summer or all year in the warmer parts of the state, are borne in upright clusters at the ends of branches on the upper part of the shrub. They vary in color from white through pink, creamy yellow and rose to deep red. Normally, there are 5 petals about 1 inch long with a fringed appendage at the base of each, but many cultivated forms are found in gardens with double (many petalled) flowers. The pods, not commonly produced, are long, narrow, cylindri-cal and paired. The numerous seeds are furnished with a tuft of brown hairs. All parts of the plants, but especially the new growth, exude a gummy, sticky sap when injured.

Name
English:Tobacco Indonesian:Tembakau, mbako (Jawa), bako (Sunda)
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)
Subclass: Asteridae
Order: Solanales
Family: Solanaceae
Genus: Nicotiana
Species: Nicotiana tabacum L.
Description
The genus derives its name from Joan Nicot, a Portuguese who introduced the Tobacco plant into France. The specific name being derived from the Haitian word for the pipe in which the herb is smoked. Tobacco is an annual, with a long fibrous root, stem erect, round, hairy, and viscid; it branches near the top and is from 3 to 6 feet high. Leaves large, numerous, alternate, sessile, somewhat decurrent, ovate, lanceolate, pointed, entire, slightly viscid and hairy, pale-green colour, brittle, narcotic odour, with a nauseous, bitter acrid taste. Nicotine is a volatile oil, inflammable, powerfully alkaline, with an acrid smell and a burning taste. By distillation with water it yields a concrete volatile oil termed nicotianin or Tobacco camphor, which is tasteless, crystalline, and smells of Tobacco; other constituents are albumen, resin, gum, and inorganic matters.

Name
English:Split leaf philodendron, lacy tree philodendron, selloum Indonesian:Philodendron selloum
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Liliopsida (Monocotyledons)
Subclass: Arecidae
Order: Arales
Family: Araceae
Genus: Philodendron
Species: Philodendron selloum C. Koch
Description
This herbaceous plant reaches up to 8 m in height, it is prostrated or ascending when supported. The leaves are big, green, tough, split, perforated and ornamental. Its blossoming is spadix-like (similar to the anthurium, which belongs to the same family), it has a whitish beige colouration and measures 20 to 30 cm in length. The fruit is berry-shaped, aromatic, and very tasty and looks like a green corncob.

Name
English:Nile cabbage, water lettuce Indonesian:Kiapu, ki apung, ki apu, kayu apu, kayu apung
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Liliopsida (Monocotyledons)
Subclass: Arecidae
Order: Arales
Family: Araceae
Genus: Pistia
Species: Pistia stratiotes L.
Description
Herb is a plant, float in the water, with 5-10 cm high. This plant does not trunked. Single leaf, root, roset, solet shaped, with a rounded edge. Has a base tapering, edge berlekuk, and 2-10 cm in length. Leaves have 2-6 cm wide, with parallel pertulangan, and green-blue. Ear-bearing, in the armpit leaves, a settle, ± 1 cm long, blond, protected by seludang (feathering soft), and white. While the fruit is hidden, bulbous, and red. Fibrous roots that have white.

Name
English:castor bean, castor oil plant, palma Christi, wonder tree Indonesian:Jarak kepyar, jarak kaliki (Sunda), tanggang-tanggang raja (Makasar), peleng kaliki (Bugis) Malay:Pokok jarak, kacang kastor Thai:Lahung daeng Chinese:Bi ma, ma hong liang Japanese:Hima, rishin
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)
Subclass: Rosidae
Order: Euphorbiales
Family: Euphorbiaceae
Genus: Ricinus
Species: Ricinus communis L
Description
branching perennial shrub which grows to 3 m high and occasionally higher. It has stout hollow branches which are a dull pale green or red; older branches and trunks turn greyish. Large leaves (10−60 cm across) are widely spaced on the branches and grow on long, stout, hollow stalks attached off-centre to the bottom of the leaf. Each leaf is divided into 7−9 pointed triangular segments with toothed edges and conspicuous veins. Leaves are glossy, dark reddish-green when young, glossy green when mature. The flowers are crowded in stout, erect spikes in the forks of the upper branches. Female flowers are in the upper part of the spikes, male flowers at the base. Female flowers develop into fruits about 2.5 cm across which are covered with soft green or red spines. These fruits have three segments, each segment containing one large, mottled, smooth seed. When ripe, the fruits explode violently and throw the seeds a distance of several metres.

Name
English:Yellow oleander, lucky nut, campanilla Indonesian:Ginje, bunga terompet, oleander kuning Malay:Pokok jepun, bunga terompet
Classification
Kingdom: Plantae (Plants)
Subkingdom: Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Super Division: Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division: Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)
Subclass: Asteridae
Order: Gentianales
Family: Apocynaceae
Genus: Thevetia
Species: Thevetia peruviana (Pers.) K.Schum
Description
Previously known as Thevetia peruviana, all parts of this plant are highly toxic as they contain cardiac glycosides. The fleshy angular fruits, which are about the size of an unshelled walnut, and seeds are the most dangerous. The leaves are leathery and narrow to about 16 cm long and1-1.5 cm wide and the flowers are usually yellow and bell-shaped to about 7 cm long. Flowers present throughout most of the year. This species is a class 3 weed.

source :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/

http://www.plantamor.com/index.php?CatID=13

http://www.gardenguides.com/plants/info/herbs/

http://www.worldagroforestrycentre.org/sea/products/AFDbases/AF/asp/

http://kambing.ui.ac.id/bebas/v12/artikel/ttg_tanaman_obat/depkes/buku5/5-031.pdf

http://72.14.235.132/search?q=cache:eRzLCC0JbfUJ:fulltextt10.fcla.edu/DLData/UF/UF00020522/00027.pdf+oleander+description&cd=
11&hl=id&ct=clnk&gl=id&client=firefox-a

http://bocahpharmacy.multiply.com/journal/item/65

http://cms.jcu.edu.au/discovernature/planttownsville/JCUDEV_005957

http://plantanswers.tamu.edu/publications/poison/poison.html
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/poison/Daphnme.htm

Smiley Orchid from Bangka Indonesia

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Mon, 11 May 2009 11:58:00 +0000

The corwn sheath and green colors in a red lip stick red maroon, sanction of the human-like lips. 'Laughter' is considered exotic orchid by orchid lovers neighboring countries. Not surprisingly, when Eria jacobsonii JJ Sm brought to this exhibition, it is sold out in one day. "I have five great-great family, the direct diborong Thailand," said Tulistiyanto Flora of Bangka Socieety (BFS) at berpameran on Asian Orchid Exhibition in the Palembang ago in May 2008.

Specifically for orchids laugh, there are many reasons why people like it outside. This type of orchid, including perfumes and heavily vanilla. One family of plants, with a minimum of 5 flower bud can scent a room size of 4m x 5m. But size is not large bud, diameter only 2-3 cm. Bud this perch in the flower stalk at the point heave grow. Between by the thick green leaves and spiky. Baling order dealing with the long leaves about 5 cm.

Between the stem with a stem that is connected by another bar (rhizoma) to form clumps. Stem is slightly protuberant, and named pseudobulb, the place where stored food reserves. Pseudobulb sancta Cecil and located near the stem. "Flowers can hold up to 2 months. Pas as decoration on the table. After the fall, the lapse of 3 days longer appear breeding interest on the other," said Tulistiyanto who use it as pengharum room. Of course, it entered into the room only during flowering. By order of this kind, laughing Anggrek potential to be a plant pot plant is displayed on the table.
Eria Jacobsonii

EASY Propagation
Also the attraction laughing orchid is easy to breeding . Breeding more practical use because the scale is not so much. breeding rizhoma this grow from the vine planted in the skin surface. When leaved plants have at least 3 pairs, can be separated by cutting rimpang it. For more safe, not only cut off one family contains a Breeding , but a family that contains at least 3 Breeding . So that the clumps have a greater energy to heal the wounds that cut off the network. In addition, use a sharp pilau for cutting. A blunt knife to make the plant more 'sick' because the network is more damaged.

After Breeding crop, planted in a pot with the fern spaghnummoss or cocopeat. Then disiram twice a day, or try to keep humid. Fertilization does not need a routine, even though there is a treat as orchid hybrid, two times a week fostered NPK. Orchid this should be placed under the (net 65%), or can also be placed in the room that faced with the window. If you want natural, can be tied in the trunk as in the original habitat.

Various Variants
E, jacobsonii, have some other name because variannya vary. Color flowers have a greenness, and light green colors, but have a long form. You can find another name as Campanulorchis pellipes (Rchb.f. ex Hook.f.) YPNg £ t f '. J. Cribb 2005 Eria jacobsonii JJSm. 1917; Eria toluensis JJSm, 1920 Pinalia pellipes (Rchb. f. ex Hook.f.) Kuntze 1891. Year of naming the oldest written in 1851 with the name of Eria teretifolia tariff. This name refers to the form of tenet (like the pencil) on the orchid leaves laughing

Orchid laughing stick found in the trunk callosity. For example bacang (Ma ngifera foetida), mango sour taste. While in other countries is usually found under the conifer forest (pine group). This plant is found spread from Indonesia to Malaysia, in the range 0-1300 m altitude above the surface of Links. There was also mention of Himalaya, Assam, Bhutan, Sikkim, Myanmar, Thailand, Malaysia, Laos, Cambodia, southern China, and Vietnam. In Indonesia, it became laughing pride orchid Bangka.

Scanned / OCR / edited by Sabina from Flona Magazine Issue 65 / July 2008 V

10 Types of vine Plants

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Mon, 11 May 2009 10:31:00 +0000

PETREA VOLUBILIS. Comes from South America. Still able to grow despite heavy flowering in a protected sun. Want the temperature range 25 - 35 ° C. Applied as appropriate plants fluorescent and plant litter on the vine pergola. Grouped flowers in bunches. Each stem length 30 - 40 cm, containing hundreds of flowers.
ANTIGONON LEPTOPUS. This plant comes from Mexico. Growth is very fast. Require the planting in full shine of sun. Planting the desired form of a mixture of soil, compost husk, bran and roasted. conside 2: 1: 1. The desired temperature range is 21 - 32 ° C. Stek may be through or with the generative seed.
STROPHANTHUS GRATUS. also often spread as oleander. Plant this sticky, has a flower stalk group in one. The desired temperature ranges between 16 - 31 ° C. This type of resistance and resistance to exposure to shade the sun. Flowering can be diligent and much more with stek stem and stek shoots. Applied as a suitable plant fluorescent.
QUISQUALIS indica. Often also referred to as plant gulp. Interest rates are unique. Color can change. Young white flowers. Along with the increasing age, the color will change to pink, to finally become dark red. Grow in the fertile plateau and lowland. Require the body in a humid place. The desired temperature range 28 - 32 °C.
Brown ALAMANDA. If most flowering yellow Alamanda, Allamanda cathartica this ornate brown. Comes from the U.S. South and West India. Classified the type of plant sticky. Brown Alamanda ruin affected flowering and resistance to sun also are in the trees between stem. Dpat up through stek stem, with seeds and cangkok. Applied as a suitable plant fluorescent.
A SOLANDRA GRANDIFLORA. The size of the interest rates clench tongue adults. This plant needs a lot of the open exposed to the sun. Solandra grandiflora able to grow on clay or sandy conditions, and always humid.
FLAME OF IRIAN. Included in the family Leguminoceae plants or beans. Mushrooming of height and flowering in more than 300 m. With average temperatures ranging between 24 - 25 ° C. Suitable as plant cover and canopy.
THUNBERGIA MYSORENSIS. Come from Central America. families with eggplant, tomatoes and chili. Fertile and flowering in the high dense and packed cool. Suitable for protectors in the terrace house. Berhumus like the media and humid. Up with stek and seed.
MALAITHONG. Cluster size of interest can reach 80cm long. Filled with hundreds of yellow flowers. Tendon grow each of the shoots. The more shoots, the more many of the tendon.
IPOMEA BRAVIENSIS. dengon yam family. Applied as a suitable plant fence. Hold patronage remain diligent and flowering in the shade. Grow in the fertile lowland. The temperature range 29 - 32 ° C.

Schedule Care
1. Trimming 2 - 4 weeks. Pads, especially when the rainy season
2. Fertilization 2 - 3 months with NPK berkandungan P are.
3. Spraying pesticides. Once a month. Especially in the rainy season for the fragrant flower. Such Quisqualis indica.

Packing way Aglaonema With Pot

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Mon, 11 May 2009 09:47:00 +0000

As a valuable economic plant collection is very high, especially packing Agalonema Aglonema class and youth as well as the plant is small for long distance is not a simple matter, a little can cause the plant leaves and torn tergulung which can lower the quality of the plant. However, Mr. Moes from Flora Gadhinks have cara a safe packing.

1. Add media to the average with the pot lip.

2. Surface of the media covered with a snippet of paper and cardboard pleaster with strong media that does not spill when the pot upside down position.

3. Collect leaves Hati2 with the Queen ... Then enter in the discount paralon

4. Leaf in the safe position paralon

5. Put the paralon(PVC) and pot with pleaster.

6. Close Up paralon(PVC) connection and pot.

7. Enter into the cardboard and trim. packed ready

Care cutting plant

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Mon, 11 May 2009 09:19:00 +0000

All plants need to be cut, especially the large plant of shady tree. Its main objectives is to maintain that trees, and spur a growth. Perhaps only the trimming is not necessary for this type of small plant that serves as a ground cover.

1. Period Trimming
A good time to prune is when the plant does not start cleanly visible. Such, bentuknya sudah tidak teratur, stick to the direction that is not desired. Cover or other plants even mengangli road. Decide which branch should be cut. If you need marked.

2. Branch Cut
Trimming can be done with many tools. Ranging from knives, scissors and saw barbershop. Customize it with a large, and the texture of the cut branch. Make sure the cutting tool that the results can look more tidy.

3. Trunks Cut. Trunks, branches and grow new branches have also made good. Dispose of the new feature, such as closing the main stem to want show. Cutting small profitable since cause the result more cleanly.

4. In addition to maintaining the fixed tidy, trimming can also be made to the new branching. Made to establish such divarication Pandan Bali and other types of Dracaena. How very simple, cut "head" alias plant shoots. It is a good idea to avoid plastic wrapped decay after a trimmed, talon new branches will appear. If it is too many branches can be reduced with the cut.

5. There are other tricks establish branch Pandan Bali, namely merompes stem leaves in the head. Pull the leaves out and patahkan pucuknya. This is more safe from contamination. However, sometimes the main stem shoots can still grow. Brake again if it is not necessary.

6. Entres that waste should not be discarded. Especially good for plants and expensive types of Pandan Bali and Plumerla. Discount stem can be planted with the cutting. Use the red soil media. Can be done in the pot. But better with the best media wrapped gunny. Put in place adequate fluorescent but not dark.

3 Ways to Prune Rhododendrons

Here's how to maintain, shape, or rejuvenate rhododendrons

by Charles W.G. Smith

Despite the common notion that rhododendrons can't be pruned, these shrubs respond well to trimming.

I learned to prune rhododendrons by destroying my prized rock garden. I had a 30-foot-tall pine that I needed to cut down. It missed the house by a wide margin, but it didn't miss the rock garden, which I had lovingly tended for years.

When the last of the pine tree was removed, I discovered that the damage was surprisingly slight, except for a beautiful Rhododendron 'Roseum Elegans', now a 2-foot mound of broken branches and torn foliage. Curious to see if the shrub would recover on its own, I trimmed it back a bit, cut back the scaffold of branches to as pleasing a shape as possible, and waited to see what would happen. Four years later, the rhododendron is one of the most eye-catching shrubs in the yard, with a beautiful shape, dense branches, and plentiful flowers. The incident illustrates how responsive rhododendrons can be to even severe pruning.

There are three common reasons for pruning rhododendrons—maintenance, shaping, and rejuvenation—and the pruning method for each is easy to learn. The result is a shrub with dense branching, plentiful foliage, and abundant flowers. And you don't have to drop a pine tree on your shrub border to learn how to do it.

Maintenance pruning removes old flowers and dead wood

Snip at the base of the old flower trusses to keep the plant's energy focused on producing growth rather than seed. Also remove dead or diseased parts of the shrub--follow the branch back to healthy wood and make a cut there.

Maintenance pruning consists of the removal of spent flower clusters, called trusses, and also of any dead or diseased wood. The trusses are not only unsightly but will eventually form seed, which uses precious energy that would otherwise be available to the plant for vegetative growth. Maintenance pruning is the easiest type of pruning and is the only one that needs to be done every year.

To remove old flower trusses on rhododendrons, use a pruning shear to snip the truss at its base, about 1/2 inch above the emerging flush of new growth. Some folks just grasp the stem with their thumb and forefinger and snap the truss from the plant. This works well most of the time, but occasionally the truss breaks off, taking some of the new growth with it. By using a pruning shear, such accidents are avoided.

Maintain your rhododendron by snipping off spent flower clusters (trusses)...

...and by removing dead and diseased wood.

Winter damage can be common in rhododendrons. Injured branches should be removed during routine maintenance.

Wood damaged by storms or a harsh winter should be clipped from the plant. Diseased stems, often identified by their wilted, curled yellow-green leaves, should also be removed. Make the cut below the damaged portion of the plant, taking care to cut into healthy wood right above a dormant bud. Be sure to disinfect the shears with rubbing alcohol between cuts.

Maintenance pruning is best done when the flowers have faded and before the flush of new growth rising beneath each truss is more than an inch or so tall. Many types of rhododendrons can benefit from maintenance pruning, including some deciduous azaleas, like the Knap Hill-Exbury hybrids, and most broad-leaved evergreens, such as the popular hybrids of mountain rosebay (R. catawbiense). Some varieties of rhododendron, most notably small-leaved cultivars like 'Elite', 'Northern Starburst', and 'PJM Regal', rarely set seed and do not require maintenance pruning. If your flowers and flower stalks simply shrivel up and essentially disappear in the weeks after flowering, then your variety doesn't set seed and doesn't need to be deadheaded.

Pruning for shape enhances the plant's natural habit and form

To shape a rhododendron, follow the branch down to the last whorl of leaves you want to keep and cut just above those leaves.

As the name implies, shaping involves altering the shape of the plant, and it can be done for many reasons, from encouraging denser branching to controlling plant width or height. It differs from other shaping techniques, like topiary, in that shaping of rhododendrons is designed to develop the most aesthetically pleasing aspects of the plant's natural habit and form. Conversely, topiary and other more formal shaping techniques prune a plant into a shape it would not naturally assume. Shaping should not be done on leggy or very large plants, as their open habit requires a more drastic technique called rejuvenation pruning.

To shape, cut just above the whorl of leaves.

Shaping improves the appearance of a plant by encouraging increased branching at its growing points. Since many evergreen rhododendrons hold their leaves for about three years, a branch will have a series of leaf whorls, each representing a year's growth. The whorls of foliage are separated by sections of leafless stem, called internodes. In general, broad-leaved rhododendrons have much longer internodes than small-leaved and deciduous types and benefit most from shaping. To shape a rhododendron, follow the branch from the end down to the last whorl of leaves you want to keep. Make the cut about 1/4 inch above the topmost leaf in this cluster. Repeat as needed.

Shaping is most easily done in late winter, while the plant is dormant. Although this sacrifices some of the flower buds, it ensures a complete growing season for the new stems that emerge.

Rejuvenation pruning calls for drastic cuts on old wood

Cuts for rejuvenation pruning are made much farther back on the shrub. On the primary branches, make your cut just above a latent bud, or even better, a cluster of buds. In severe cases, you can sometimes cut your rhododendron to within 6 inches of the ground.

Rejuvenation pruning is best used to restore shrubs that have become leggy, overgrown, or otherwise unattractive. Many rhododendron species and hybrids can be severely pruned and come back as good as new. Rejuvenation pruning removes most of the branches of the plant, initiating the rise of vigorous flushes of new growth from previously leafless old stems. The new growth matures into a new framework of branches that can then be shaped over the years to produce a stunning shrub. It's best to perform this type of pruning in winter, while the plant is dormant.

Rejuvenation pruning involves the careful cutting back of each primary branch of the plant's framework. Rhododendrons often have three or more main branches rising from the crown of the plant. These branches, called primary branches, form the basic scaffold of each shrub. Each branch is cut at a different height to produce a staggered arrangement that will make the shrub look natural when the new shoots mature.

Another type of rejuvenation pruning consists of cutting the entire plant to within 6 inches of the ground. It is a quick method, but not all rhododendrons survive the treatment. In some instances, an apparently healthy plant may be weakened by disease or poor nutrition and cannot recover from the stresses of hard pruning. To see if your shrub can handle such a hard pruning, cut only one of the main branches back to 6 inches. Cut the others back to a height you are sure is healthy, say 2 feet. If new growth emerges from the 6-inch cut, you can cut back the rest of the shrub following year and be confident in its return.

Cut just above a latent bud to rejuvenate the shrub.

Regardless of the method, rejuvenation pruning works because of a special trait of rhododendrons. Look at the bark on a stem or main branch of many rhododendrons and you will see tiny buds, little pink dots about the size of a pinhead that pepper the surface of older branches. These little pink buds, called latent buds, are the key to successful rejuvenation pruning, as they will give rise to the new framework of branches.

Once you've determined how far back the plant needs to be pruned, take a moment and examine the area for a nice healthy bud (one that is firm and appears filled out) and cut 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch above that bud. Pruning above a cluster of two or three buds is better than pruning above just one bud, as this often produces multiple branches.

All three of these pruning methods are easy to do and result in a healthier and more attractive shrub. Don't worry about making mistakes: Rhododendrons are very forgiving—even if you drop a tree on them.

Illustrations: Dolores R. Santoliquido; photos, Todd Meier
source :http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/articles/three-ways-prune-rhododendrons.aspx?nterms=74872

Mandevilla

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Mon, 11 May 2009 08:38:00 +0000

Mandevilla is a vine plant. will need place to grow with the vertical well. Most easily with the purchase of spread pole made of metal. Mandevilla should vine since its size is still small so easy. Do with convolve repeatedly to the top. When swell shoots will own twist to the bang without the need to be assisted.

If your husband creative, a pillar vine mandevilla can be made own. Simple material, such as the stem of bamboo or wood. How to made also simple, just stick two or four-blade small bamboo plant on the media around the lips of mandevila pot. continue to the top blade ago bamboo tied together with rope. Mandevila curve away on the trunk (make it circle).

Mandevilla "jessamine brazil" is also simple. Can use a mixture of media such as planting cocopeat and roasted bran. Plants should be placed in the open that get enough sun to stimulate the emergence of interest. Sprinkling is done each time don't wait till dry or much water.

Nutrition must be supplied from the fertilizer. Can use a balanced NPK fertilizer, such comparison 20:20:20. Give every one to two weeks. The provision of nutrition akan mandevilla stimulate optimal growth and flowering. To be practical, fertilizer mixing in water to flush. fertilizer Fair use of concentrate about 0.75 grams / liter. How? Dissolved one teaspoon of fertilizer to a 10 liter water, and use to flush the media. And if have liquid organic fertilizer just mix to water.

Natural Insect and Animal Pest Control

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Fri, 24 Apr 2009 23:03:00 +0000

Organic and Mechanical Pest Control for Garden Pests
Organic gardening is safer and greener than conventional gardening. Still, there are garden pests to be dealt with. Insects, rodents, rabbits, raccoons, opossums, and birds are a few of the pests you can encounter.

If you live in a strictly urban area, you will likely not have to deal with the rabbits, raccoons, and opossums, but the insects, rodents, and birds will be quite enough to keep you busy. Insects can spread diseases, such as viruses. Other
diseases breed in certain environmental conditions, such as high humidity. The spores of some diseases are spread by wind and rain. All this will have to be controlled in order to have a successful gardening experience.

Natural Pest Control for Insects and Diseases

There is a variety of natural pest control chemicals that can be on insects and diseases. The latest and greatest of these is Neem oil. Made from the Neem tree, it controls most insects and many diseases, such as fungal infections. It is sold as a liquid concentrate to be diluted and sprayed onto the plants.

For caterpillars, there is a natural bacterial control called Bacillus Thuringiensis, or BT, which comes in spray or dust form. It's also the active ingredient in mosquito dunks for your ponds. This bacteria, while completely safe to humans and most mammals, is toxic to caterpillars and worms.

Natural insect controls such as insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, Rotenone, Sabadilla, and Pyrethrins are all useful. Nicotine is one that should be used on non-edibles only, due to toxicity.

If you're looking for a less expensive natural insect pest control alternatives, there are many recipes for homemade sprays made with everyday items, such as dish soap, oil soap, vegetable oil, pepper, baking soda, milk, and even chopped up insects.

Care of Cactus

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Thu, 23 Apr 2009 19:23:00 +0000

Potted Plants

In most cases cactus will do well in pots as long as you remember three things. Food, light, water.

Food

When you bring the plant home most of the time it is in a small pot and it probably has grown there for a long time, which means it has used up most of all the nutrients in the soil. So think about repotting and setting up feeding program. Most cactus like several small feeding, better than one large feeding. I like a time release type in the spring and this will feed the plant for six or more months. The other way is to give the plants food three time a year (spring, summer, fall)with a dilute solution of plant food like (5-10-5). This should do them well for the year.

Light

A potted cactus will live and flower in the house if given enough light, place the plant near a bright lighted window, where it will receive light most of the day. On the patio is different place the cactus in a partly shaded area until it become accustom to the sun. Never bring the cactus home and place it in the bright sun, cactus sun burn just like people.

Water

Cactus in pots require more care in watering than in the ground. In the growing period which can be spring & summer or fall & winter. Depending on where they come from, south america or north america, the plant should not be allowed to go completely dry, just moist. In the house watering could be as little as once a month depending on the dryness of the house. But outside as much as every two or three days. Take a wooden pencil or dow rod and place it down through the soil to the bottom of the pot, when removed, if damp soil is on it don't water. After a few try's you will learn when to water.

Potting mix for San Antonio area consist of

1 part potting mix (not soil)
1 part washed sand 1 part course gravel or pumas

Care of Your Cactus

Outside Plants in Ground

Only a select few cactus will survive this climate in san antonio, because of our winter rains. In selecting plants for use here one must look at the habitat from which the plant originates. Most of the cactus that grow in texas, and some parts of mexico and even some from south america will survive here. First one must look at how and where to place the cactus. Selecting a location is a good place to start. It must have sun most of the day. Morning and afternoon sun is better than two o clock sun. The area should have very good drainage, if the yard is level you will have to go to above grown beds. I like to make my beds by placing several large rocks in a circle or some odd shape then remove about a foot off dirt from the center , an replace it with a good mix to the top of the rocks. This will assure that the plants will not stand in water. This is more important in the winter than the summer. Most cactus are not killed by the cold, but when the water inside the plant freezes it expands and splits the outer layer of skin, this allows bacteria to enter the plant and kill it. In the winter I listen to the weather report if we are to get rain then a freeze, I will cover my more tender ones with a box or tarp (not plastic) to help keep them dry.

Potting mixes can be made by mixing one part potting mix, one part washed sand & one part course fill (rocks, pumas, broken pots, etc.) Don`t worry too much drainage is better than not enough. Lets talk about shade. Most cactus can use a little protection from the two o'clock sun. A small plant near by or a large rock will work, just a little help. A large rock next to the plant will help hold heat in the winter and will cut down on watering in the summer.

When planting the cactus I never dig a deep hole down in the potting mix. I want the plant to set on top of the potting mix, this allows the roots to go down to get moisture with out the plant setting in wet soil. A lot of time i will use course river gavel around the base of the plant to keep it off the wet soil. After you plant the cactus give it a small amount of water every couple weeks if it doesn't rain, for about a month then let nature take it course. Feed the plants about once a year. With a dilute solution 10-10-10- or a good plant food.

Lets Build a Cactus Garden

Materials

Large rocks, potting mix

To start your garden look for a sunny, well-drained area. For a lot of us, this will be hard to do. Our yards are too flat, so we have to build raised beds. I like to build my bed so that there will be no chance of the plants becoming water logged. First draw an outline on the ground of the garden. Don't make it to large, you can always expand. Now take out some of the top soil (6" to 12") deep. Then place a narrow strip of plastic where the rocks will be, let it extend into the hole a few inches, this will help control grass from getting in the garden. Now place the rocks around the hole, don't make it round or square, do a natural look. If the garden is to be facing the street you can go two or three rocks high in the back. Now fill the hole to the top of the rocks with your soil mix. A good cactus mix is: one part potting mix, one part washed sand, and one part large (gravel, pumas, broken clay pots,) most anything that will help keep the soil loose. If the garden is to be level, mound up the mix to make it show better and increase drainage.

Now Lets Plant

Take all your plants and set them in the garden to give you an idea as to where to put them. Dig a small hole in the mix just deep enough to cover the roots, leaving the cactus body on top of the soil. Cactus that are not winter hardy can be used by leaving them in the pot. Just bury the pot so they can be removed and taken in for the winter. Give the plants a small amount of water ever two or three weeks until they root. Then let nature pay the water bill. Feed once a year with a plant food like 10-10-10 or good house plant food. Never overfeed, this is where a little does better. A few large well placed rocks will add protection from the hot sun, and help hold moisture, and it just looks good. Now go build that garden and save water.

Hanging Plants

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Mon, 20 Apr 2009 09:04:00 +0000

How to Care Hanging Plants

Of you may have already know how to care for ornamental plants with a rope swing and a pot for its entranceway, balcony or front of your house to a window outside your home. You do not want to plant when you buy a pet or plant itself looks withered and died. This may cause you own, the lack of routine care in the excess dose or as a result of fertilizer you use. A little tip for you who want to keep the plant with the swing method.A hanging basket or pot full of wet soil and plant material can be heavy. Before you hang anything from your walls or ceiling, make sure the structure can hold the weight. Do not sink hooks straight into plaster or drywall—make sure they are firmly anchored in wall studs or ceiling joists. If you have existing hooks, test them before hanging anything.
Your choice of soil can help. Potting soil is heavier and, because of its added weight, might limit your available hanging areas. It's better to use a lightweight peat or soil-less potting mix.
Protecting Your Floors and Furniture
Hanging baskets present multiple opportunities disaster, but probably the most common problem is water drainage. The coconut fiber liners that work so well outside are unsuited for indoor use because water runs straight through them. The two best options for indoor baskets are:
• A pot within a pot. This versatile and easy set-up allows you to easily switch out your hanging plants. The outer, decorative basket is completely sealed—no drainage holes at all—and it has chains or rope fastened directly to it for hanging. Place your potted plants inside, and viola, a hanging garden. The major disadvantage here is it may be difficult to reach over the lip of the outside pot while watering, and it is heavier.
• The attached tray. This is how most hanging baskets are sold in garden centers. A plastic basket comes with an attached drip trap. The wires or ropes attach to the basket itself. While this is lighter and more economical, the problem is usually the size of the drip tray. Very small trays allow very little room for error. Even a little too much water and you end up muddy water dripping onto your floors.
Here are a few tips on caring for your hanging baskets.
1. Watering - Hanging baskets and containers dry out very quickly. On a warm summer day, you may have to water as much as two or three times. One way to know if your baskets are dry, is to lift them up from the bottom of the container. Dry baskets will be very light weight and should be watered at once. You may also feel the soil to determine dryness. If the potting soil feels dry one inch below the soil surface, then it must be watered. When you water, be sure to water enough so that it drains out the drainage holes. If your hanging basket has dried out too much, then you will need to immerse it in a bucket of water to resoak the soil mix.
2. Fertilizing - Frequent watering flushes nutrients from the soil rather quickly. Frequent fertilizing will help replenish that which is lost. Two different fertilizers can be used, liquid or timed-release. Liquid fertilizers are applied biweekly throughout the growing season. They are fast acting. Timed-release fertilizers are applied to the soil, and are released over time. They can last up to several months, depending on the fertilizer. Before you fertilize, it is important that the soil is moist. Fertilizer is utilized by plants much better when they are turgid and not wilting. Be sure to follow all labeled instructions on fertilizer applied to hanging baskets.
3. Dead-heading - It is important to remove all faded flowers after they have bloomed. This is known as dead-heading. Removal of spent blooms will promote additional flowers to form. Some plants, such as verbena, benefit from cutting them back in mid summer. This will help promote further branching and flower formation.
Visit your local garden center or nursery for ideas on hanging baskets for your home. You may get some ideas for different color combinations that may work for you.

On Summer Long
Here are few hints to keep that hanging basket looking good all summer long.

• Keep in mind that growers fertilize the baskets every time they water. This helps maintain healthy, vigorous growth. A grower recommended fertilizing once a week with a formula of 10-10-20 or 12-12-12 with micro nutrients such as iron, copper, manganese to satisfy the heavy feeding requirements for hanging baskets. There are some specially formulated fertilizers available for container growing on the market. It is the moderate steady supply of fertilizer that will sustain and maintain the plant in a vigorous growing state. A research study in Michigan State compared 3 flowering baskets: one with soluble fertilizer, one with a time-release fertilizer incorporated into the soil and the one with both soluble and time-release fertilizer. The third basket with both soluble and time-release fertilizer preformed the best.
• Fertilizer is not the only important factor. Watering is just as important. Most of us find that by the time we get home from work, our poor basket is drooping from the heat of the day and lack of water. So we immediately get the watering can and pour lots of water on the plant to rehydrate it. This practice causes lots of stress to the plant. In addition, leaving soaking wet roots overnight (when its cooler) can invite root rot and other diseases. Judicial watering(just enough to revive the plant) in the evening and good drainage is a must. It is best to water in the morning using a wand or watering can and pouring water directly onto the soil avoiding wet leaves. When feeding your plants, water first with unfertilized water and drain; then re-water with a fertilizer solution. This will keep soluble salt accumulation to a minimum and avoid fertilizer burn to the roots. A moisture retaining polymer can also be added to the soil to keep your plant hydrated longer.
• Check the label for sun exposure- hang your plant in the right spot - too much sun can be as bad as not enough. If you basket shows signs of scorching, brown edges and faded or bleached leaves if may be getting too much sun, therefore move it to a shadier spot. Spindly, leggy plants with lack of flowers can indicate not enough sun. Plants facing west in the summer will require more water and need to tolerate hotter temperatures.
• Hopefully, some of these suggestions will reward with summer long blossoms.

Grass Sheet Collection

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 21:57:00 +0000

In the Garden Guides' information sheets for grasses section you will find pages full of information about individual grasses. Each page includes information on various uses of the grass, a detailed description of the grass, information on how the grass is adapted to different climates, how to grow the grass, and how to manage and upkeep the grass. To explore our grasses information sheets select a type of grass from the options below.
Grass Information Sheets

Image	Name	Habitat
	American Beachgrass - Ammophila breviligulata	Salt Water Shorelines Fresh Water Aquatic (pond, lake, river)
	Bermudagrass - Cynodon dactylon	Dry sites. Ruderal areas, disturbed areas. Escaped from cultivation. Native to Africa.
	Big Bluestem - Andropogon gerardii	Dunes, dry prairies, jack pine/oak forests
	Big Sacaton - Sporobolus wrightii	F
	Billion-Dollar Grass - Echinochloa frumentacea	In cultivations and naturalized in wet grassland.
	Bitter Panicgrass - Panicum amarum	chiefly tropical, though a few are hardy enough for outdoor cultivation, and easy to grow in ordinary garden soils.
	Blue Grama - Bouteloua gracilis	Prairie,Meadow,Field
	Pseudoroegneria spicata	F
	Argemone albiflora ssp	disturbed areas, along fence rows and railroad tracks, on hills and slopes, and in overgrazed pastures and old fields.
	Broadleaf Arrowhead - Sagittaria latifolia	Ditches, ponds, lakes and swampy areas
	Calamus - Acorus calamus	North Temperate and subtropical regions upto 2200m altitude in Himalayas.
	Canada Wildrye - Elymus canadensis	Bottoms, mesic to dry upland forests, prairie edges, streambanks, disturbed sites, roadsides.
	Caucasian Bluestem - Bothriochloa bladhii	Upland prairies, glades, dry bluff ledges, railroads, roadsides.
	Cereal Rye - Secale cereale	F
	Crested Wheatgrass - Agropyron cristatum	F
	Deergrass - Muhlenbergia rigens	F
	Desert Wheatgrass - Agropyron desertorum	F
	Eastern Gamagrass - Tripsacum dactyloides	Upland prairies, glades, savannas, margins of mesic to dry upland woods, roadsides, railroads, disturbed sites.
	Florida Paspalum - Paspalum floridanum	Moist depressions of upland prairies, low prairies, swamps, fens, streambanks, sinkhole ponds, lakes, sloughs, pastures, cultivated areas, old fields, ditches, disturbed sites, roadsides, railroads.
	Gulf Cordgrass - Spartina spartinae	F
	Indiangrass - Sorghastrum nutans	F
	Intermediate Wheatgrass - Thinopyrum intermedium	F
	Italian Ryegrass - Lolium perenne ssp. multiflorum	F
	Kentucky Bluegrass - Poa pratensis	Fields, meadows, lawns, glades, open woods, river banks, waste ground.
	Little Bluestem - Schizachyrium scoparium	Dunes, dry prairies, jack pine/oak forests
	Mexican Teosinte - Zea mexicana	F
	Northern Sweetgrass - Hierochloe hirta ssp. arctica	F
	Orchardgrass - Dactylis glomerata	Fields, waste ground, roadsides, fence rows, wooded thickets.
	Perennial Ryegrass - Lolium perenne	F
	Plains Bristlegrass - Setaria vulpiseta	Margins of mesic upland woods, upland prairies, streambanks, pond margins, pastures, fields, lawns, cultivated areas, disturbed sites, roadsides, railroads.
	Prairie Cordgrass - Spartina pectinata	F
	Purpletop Tridens - Tridens flavus	F
	Red Fescue - Festuca rubra	F
	Redtop - Agrostis gigantea	F
	Reed Canarygrass - Phalaris arundinacea	F
	Sainfoin - Onobrychis viciifolia	Mesic to dry fields, clearings, roadsides and waste places
	Saltmeadow Cordgrass - Spartina patens	F
	Sand Bluestem - Andropogon hallii	F
	Sandberg Bluegrass - Poa secunda	Streambanks, bottoms, upland forests, pond margins, pastures, crop fields, fallow fields, gardens, lawns, roadsides, railroads, disturbed sites.
	Siberian Wheatgrass - Agropyron fragile	F
	Sideoats Grama - Bouteloua curtipendula	Glades, upland prairies, savannas, rocky openings of forests, roadsides, railroads. On calcareous soils
	Slender Wheatgrass - Elymus trachycaulus	Bottoms, mesic to dry upland forests, prairie edges, streambanks, disturbed sites, roadsides.
	Smooth Cordgrass - Spartina alterniflora	F
	Snake River Wheatgrass - Elymus wawawaiensis	Bottoms, mesic to dry upland forests, prairie edges, streambanks, disturbed sites, roadsides.
	Sweetgrass - Hierochloe odorata	F
	Switchgrass - Panicum virgatum	Mesic to dry upland forests, shaded bluffs.
	Tall Oatgrass - Arrhenatherum elatius	F
	Tanglehead - Heteropogon contortus	Prairie, Plains, Meadows, Pastures, Savannahs
	Texas Cupgrass - Eriochloa sericea	Prairie, Plains, Meadows, Pastures, Savannahs, Woodlands edge, Opening
	Thin Paspalum - Paspalum setaceum	Moist depressions of upland prairies, low prairies, swamps, fens, streambanks, sinkhole ponds, lakes, sloughs, pastures, cultivated areas, old fields, ditches, disturbed sites, roadsides, railroads.
	Threeflower Melicgrass - Melica nitens	Found in full sun or semi-shade of dry rocky woods, dry clearings, dry to mesic prairies
	Timothy - Phleum pratense	Upland prairies, pond margins, streambanks, pastures, cultivated fields, ditches, disturbed sites, roadsides, railroads.
	Virginia Wildrye - Elymus virginicus	Bottoms, dry upland forests, upland prairies, glades, bluff edges, streambanks, gravel bars, pastures, old fields, roadsides, railroads
	Weeping Lovegrass - Eragrostis curvula	Streambanks, glades, fields, pastures, disturbed sites, roadsides, railroads.
	Western Wheatgrass - Pascopyrum smithii	Woodland (35-60% cover) Prairie/Meadow/Field

source:http://www.missouriplants.com/Grasses/Grasses_page1.html
http://www.michigan.gov/dnr
http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=ERSE5
http://www.plantaxa.com
http://www.ibiblio.org

Plant your Dahlia Flowers

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Sun, 05 Apr 2009 21:27:00 +0000

When & Where to Plant
For best results, dahlias should be planted from mid April through May for most areas. Ground temperature approx. 60 degrees. (exceptions will be hot climates). In general about the same time you would plant your vegetable garden. Dahlias need a sunny location to thrive. An area that receives at least 8 hours of direct sunlight is best. Exception for hot climates, they will need morning sunlight, afternoon shade. Less sun equals taller plants and less blooms.

Soil Preparation & Planting
Ground should be warm, well drained at planting, and in an open sunny location. If you have a heavier soil, add in sand, peat moss or bagged steer manure to lighten and loosen the soil texture for better drainage. Bone meal is ideal at planting time, put a small handful in the hole and work in well before planting tuber. PH level of your soil should be 6.5-7.0, slightly acidic. Do not amend dahlia beds with purchased top soils unless you are sure that it has not been treated in any way for weeds. Compost of any type should be avoided. Lay the tuber horizontally 4-6” deep, about 18” to 24” apart, and then cover with soil. DO NOT WATER TUBERS AFTER PLANTING!! Please wait to water until after the sprouts have appeared above the ground. The exception will be in hot climates, where they should be watered very lightly. Do not use bark dust or mulch to cover dahlias, as it does not allow the soil to warm up or tubers to sprout properly. This is a good time to apply snail and slug bait to protect the new sprouts.

Container Growing
We do not recommend growing dahlias in pots, but if you choose to, low growing or dwarf dahlias work best in containers. Container size should be no smaller than 12” x 12” per tuber. Use 2 parts garden soil, 1 part potting soil that has not been treated in any way. Water sparingly, overwatering to keep soil damp will result in rotting tubers in the pots. After plants are 12” high, potted dahlias will require extra watering and fertilizing to promote proper blooming.

Staking
We recommend staking any dahlias that will reach 3 feet or taller. Any staking product will work, please check your local garden center - i.e.: tomato cages, metal rods, or bamboo stakes.

Watering
Most areas have enough rain to fill dahlia water needs until the sprouts appear above the ground. After dahlias are established, a deep watering 2-3 times a week for at least 30 minutes with a sprinkler, more required during warmer dryer weather. Hotter climates will need to water more often as conditions require. Proper watering promotes proper blooming. Hand watering is not enough.

Fertilizer
Dahlias require a low nitrogen fertilizer, such as used for vegetables. We recommend high percentage potassium and phosphorus fertilizers such as a 5-10-10, 10-20-20, or 0-20-20. First applications should be within 30 days of planting and repeated again approx. 3-4 weeks later. One of the biggest mistakes made with dahlias is over feeding them. Avoid compost and high nitrogen water soluble types as they promote weak stems, small blooms, or no blooms, and tubers that rot or shrivel in storage.

Weed Control
Hand weeding is the only type of weed control you should ever use, there are no exceptions. Do not use any type of Herbicides, your dahlias will not survive.

Pests & Problems

SNAILS & SLUGS - They will begin eating your dahlias before they even show through the ground. Slugs and snails will eat the new sprouts, holes in the leaves, and they will even eat the stalk. We recommend slug and snail baiting 2 weeks after planting and continue to bait throughout the season.

SPIDER MITES - The most common predator to dahlias. Typically looks like your plant needs more water. Most plant will begin with yellow spots on the leaves and then the leaves will begin browning completely, working its way up the entire plant. Spider mites thrive in hot weather and can attack certain varieties, while not bothering others. We recommend preventatively spraying beginning in late July and continue to spray through September. Recommended sprays: Malathion (good for prevention, but does not work as well on infested plants), Bon-Neem, or any other Miticide or spray listing spider mites.

EARWIGS & CUCUMBER BEETLE (similar to a lady bug, but green instead of red) - They are mainly a nuisance, while eating many petals of the blooms, they are really not hurting the dahlia plant itself. They fly or crawl in daily and are very hard to control. Recommended sprays: Sevin Dust or Concentrate, Go West Meal, or any other chemical listed in helping with these insects.
GENERAL INSECTS - Recommended sprays: Orthene, Malathion, or Bon-Neem
MILDEW - Most commonly shows up in the fall. The leaves will begin to get a white powdery mildew or spots on the leaves. We do not believe that this is caused from over head watering, but rather weather temperatures and humidity. We recommend preventatively spraying before this issue arises, begin spraying in late July and continue through the fall. Recommended sprays: Daconil, Funginex, or Fung-onil.

Topping or Pinching
To promote shorter, bushier plants with better stems for cutting, pinch or cut the center shoot just above the third set of leaves, or plant height of about 18-20” tall.

Cut Flowers
Best time to cut your flowers is in the cool mornings. Place the cut stems in 2-3” of VERY HOT WATER (approx. 160-180 degrees) and allow to cool at least one hour. This will set your blooms and make your flowers last for 4-6 days. Removing old blooms will keep your plants strong and blooming late into the season.

Leaving Dahlias in Ground Over the Winter
Dahlias may be left in over the winter, however dahlias are susceptible to rot and/or freeze. Dahlias are not hardy, since they are a tuber (thin skinned) and not a bulb. If you're in an area where the freeze reaches a depth of 6” or more, than leaving your dahlias in the ground is NOT an option. In many climates they must be dug and stored (see digging and winter storage information). In warmer/mild states including the Pacific Northwest, you may try leaving the dahlias in the ground over the winter. It is never a guarantee, but many customers find that this is a more successful route, compared to digging and storing. Since dahlias can rot or freeze, you must protect them. First, we recommend after killing frost or mid November that you cut the stalks down to below ground level. Next, cover the dahlia area with plastic to keep the winter rains off the dahlias. Finally, it is a good idea to add a few inches of mulch, leaves, soil, or straw on top of the plastic to give them a few extra inches of warm protection from the cold. In March you would remove the extra layers of protection from your dahlia beds. If you leave your dahlias in the ground and would like to divide them, you would dig them up in the spring when you see sprouts coming through the ground. Once you have divided them, let the cuts seal/heal over night and then you can replant the next day. Do not let your dahlias sit out for multiple days, as they will begin to dehydrate.

Digging
Digging should be done about 2 weeks after a killing frost, the plants will turn brown if frosted hard enough. Tubers dug too early are still “green” and will not store. It is safe to dig by Mid November without a frost. Cut the stalk off to about 6”, gently lift tubers with a spade or pitchfork carefully so as not to break the necks. Wash dirt from the roots and allow to air dry, protected from the elements for about 24 hours.

Dividing
Can be done in the fall, or in the spring. If eyes are difficult to see, we suggest diving the clump into halves or quarters. Use a hawk bill shoe knife (available pg. 62 of our catalog) or sharp knife to cut through the tubers. The eyes will be located on the center stalk and each root must have an eye in order to grow. Not all tubers will have an eye. Cut surfaces should be allowed to dry overnight before storing, or planting. Different varieties will produce different sizes and shape tubers.

Winter Storage
Use a storage medium such as slightly dampened Peat Moss, Sand, or Pet bedding material (sawdust/shavings). Tubers should be stored in crates or cardboard boxes. We recommend lining the containers with 10-12 sheets of newspaper. Start with your packing medium in the bottom and layer tubers and medium until the container is full. Never store in sealed plastic bags or plastic containers. Store in a cool, dry area (temp. of 40-50 degrees). Too warm they will wrinkle/shrivel and too cold they will freeze/rot. Please check your tubers once a month throughout the winter months.

Starting Dahlias Early Indoors
Potting soil or sand is recommended as a planting medium. Start your dahlias approx. 6 weeks before you transplant them out. Plant 2-3” deep. Keep in a warm area above 60 degrees. The soil should be slightly damp, not wet! (Dahlias can rot or develop poorly in too wet of conditions) Transplant your dahlias out in your beds after danger of frost is past. The ground temperature should be approx. 60 degrees. Plants should be about 12” tall or less when you move them outdoors. If the plants are over 12” high, pinch them back before transplanting them out. When transplanting your dahlias out, be sure to plant the tuber 6” deep. Use a handful of bone meal in each hole, at the time you transplant. After transplanting your dahlias into your beds, be sure to keep them watered until the roots are established. (Approximate time is one week) Once your dahlias are established, care for your dahlias as you would with tubers planted directly in the ground.

Growing Dahlias From Seed
Growing dahlias from seed can be fun! Mixed seed will produce all kinds of flowers in an array of colors. Start by spreading potting soil mix in a low, flat tray. Potting soil can be purchased at any garden center. Sprinkle your dahlia seed over the top of the soil. Then lightly cover with potting soil. Lightly water so that soil is just damp, and continue to water lightly keeping the soil damp during sprouting. Sprouting should occur within a 7 to 10 day period. Do not over water. Keep in mind that unlike vegetable seed, dahlia seed will not all sprout the same day, germination will occur over several days. After the young seedlings have reached a height of approximately 3 inches, they will be ready to separate and transplant into small “plugs” or pots. These containers should be filled with a potting soil and sand mix, approximately 2/3 potting soil and 1/3 sand. After potting up the seedlings, water enough to keep the soil dampened while they take root. Continue to water and keep the soil damp as the plants grow. The seedlings will stay in these containers and continue to grow for about 4 to 5 weeks before they are ready for transplanting outside. Before you transplant outside, it is recommended that you harden off the young seedling first. They should be moved into a cold frame or the trays can be set outside during the day and brought in at night for a period of about 7 to 10 days. This will help condition the young seedlings and they will and they will go through less shock when transplanted. Pick a sunny location that has well drained soil to transplant to. After transplanting your dahlias into your beds, be sure to keep them watered until the roots are established. (Approximate time 1-2 weeks) Please refer to the regular growing instructions for continued care for your dahlias.

Recycled Gardening

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Wed, 25 Mar 2009 02:36:00 +0000

This Instructable will show you how to recycle and grow some plants and flowers at the same time. I will show you how to become a little "Greener".

Image Notes
1. A flower I found in the woods. Near some trash :-(

step 1: Mini Greenhouses
Want to become a little more "Green". Then what's better to do that than making recycled green houses. These are made from old containers for rotisserie chicken, cake
containers, and other miscellaneous clear plastic containers.
All you have to do is fill up your containers you choose to use. Add your seeds and put the plants into the container. This works by keeping the water inside of the
container making a humid environment for the plants. I use this mostly for starting the seeds, it has worked great for me.

Image Notes
1. A cake container from Walmart.

step 2: Toilet Paper Roll Planters
These are nice because they breakdown over time. And they don't cause pollution like peat pots do. To make these all you do is go to the restroom a few times. Put a
gas mask on and take the roll out of the bathroom (since you just used it a few times). Now that you have extracted the roll cut the bottom of it 1 inch about 5-6 times.
Fold in the flaps you created to make a bottom to the roll.
Now you can fill up the rolls with dirt and your choice of seed.

Image Notes
1. The Toilet Paper Roll

Image Notes
1. Weird Scissors I found.

Image Notes
1. What it looks like after you cut it.

Image Notes
1. Fold in the flaps.

Image Notes
1. Flaps all folded in.

Image Notes
1. Finished Product

Greenhouse From Old Windows

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 05:02:00 +0000

This is a brief guide on how I took some old windows from houses they where tearing down in my neighborhood and turned them into a small greenhouse in my
backyard. I collected the windows over the course of a year and a half and the build took about 3 months, spending one day a week on it. I spent about $300 for the
lumber for the frame and screws, caulk, latches, etc. That's almost 10% of what a greenhouse kit would cost. The size I built was 7ft high x 10ft deep x 6ft wide. But the
size of your greenhouse will depend on your windows and the time you want to put into project.

Image Notes
1. Area sealed with wood.
step 1: Collect Windows and Plan Two Pair of Equal Sides.
Look for old windows and save every one you get. After you have many, lay them out and play a game trying to make two pairs of "walls" both the same height. 2-3
inches won't matter as you can cover the difference with wood. Smaller holes will need to have glass cut for them or filled with something else. keep in mind that one end
will need a door and the other a hole for a fan.

Image Notes
1. Be sure to remove all the hardware.
2. Small areas like this can have glass cut and caulked in or just covered with wood.

step 2: Create a Frame
Using the windows you chose as a guide, construct a frame for each wall. Use good lumber for this, as it is the structure that holds all the weight. I used all 2x4's for the
studs and 4x4 for the corner posts. Chooses a length that allows at least 14" of the stud to be placed in the ground for support.

step 3: Brace Walls
Start placing the walls up, bracing well so they don't fall over. Be sure to check that they are level.

step 4: Make the Foundation Secure
To avoid certain problems with pesky permits I built the structure shed height and did not pour a foundation. Instead I used buried cinder blocks to stabilize the 4x4 corner
posts. They keep it from moving an inch.

step 5: Screw on Windows
I used some nice coated deck screws to affix the windows to the frame. This will allow for easy removal and replacement if any break. This side facing has the empty
window for a fan.

Image Notes
1. Fan goes here. Make sure it is across from your door.
2. This is an example of being able to "fudge" your walls a bit with the lumber.

step 6: Get a Floor
I was able to find someone who needed rocks removed from their yard. Using rocks or stones is good for two reasons: good drainage and heat storage.

step 7: Build the Roof
This was tricky. I ended up getting siding from an old shed someone had torn down. Any material you use, look for lightweight and waterproof material. Be sure that you
have some that will open for ventilation, at least 20-30% of your floorspace. You can get by with less if you use a fan for ventilation. Also build the slant roof with at least a
4 degree pitch, otherwise rain may not sheet off well.

step 8: Add the Shelves and Fans.
I found an old picnic bench table and this fan and shelf in the garbage. I figured I can use them in my greenhouse and save them from a landfill.

step 9: Caulk and Paint
Use a good outdoor caulk and seal all the cracks and holes between windows. Paint the wood to protect it from the weather.

Image Notes
1. I made a "barn-door" style door to allow for effective cross-breeze with fan.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Greenhouse_From_Old_Windows/

Butterfly Gardening

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Fri, 20 Mar 2009 19:24:00 +0000

Butterfly gardening has become one of the most popular hobbies today. What could bring more joy than a beautiful butterfly fluttering around your garden?! Here are some tips to make your garden
especially butterfly-friendly.

Your first step should be to find out which butterflies are in your area. You can do this by spending some time outdoors with your field guide to see which species are around. You can also check our checklists here.

Plant
your butterfly garden in a sunny location (5-6 hours each day), but sheltered from the winds. Butterflies need the sun to warm themselves, but they won't want to feed in an area where they are constantly fighting the wind to stay on the plants. It is also a good idea to place a few flat stones in your sunny location so the butterflies can take a break while warming up.

Butterflies need water just like we do. Keep a mud puddle damp in a sunny location, or fill a bucket with sand and enough water to make the sand moist.

Butterflies use two different types of plants - those that provide nectar for the adults to eat (nectar plant), and those that provide food for their offspring (host plant). It is best to find out which plant species are native to your area and plant those rather than exotic species.

Below are list of the more common butterflies with their host and nectar plants.

The Care and Handling of Cut Flowers

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Mon, 16 Mar 2009 17:21:00 +0000

While most cut flowers are currently imported from out-of-state producers, Oklahoma growers can substantially
contribute to and profit from the production and marketing of cut flowers. Greenhouse or garden centers could diversify their operations with cut flowers, depending upon proper care of the flowers and establishment of a market. Since Oklahoma is centrally located in the U.S. and has two major airports, increased production of cut flowers could be warranted. Therefore, establishing care and handling guidelines is critical to the success of cut flower production in Oklahoma.
Below is basic information which may be useful to growers, wholesalers, retailers, and ultimately the consumers.
Since water quality and growing, harvesting, and storing conditions vary considerably, it is important to first test any changes in procedures on a small scale. Whether a firm is growing or importing cut flowers, periodic tests of the vase
life of the flowers should be conducted to assure that vase life is adequate. Flowers may look acceptable, but may not last as long as possible.

Harvesting the Flowers
Before a single flower is harvested, a few items should be prepared first. All buckets and utensils should be cleaned and sanitized. Cutting tools need to be sharp; dull tools will macerate stems and reduce water uptake. Plants should be healthy and vigorous. Flowers harvested from poor quality plants will generally have a shorter vase life than those harvested from high quality plants. Finally, the vase life of a species can vary greatly, depending on the cultivar; cultivar selection criteria should include both production capability and vase life protection.
Flowers should be harvested at the proper stage of development for maximum vase life. The optimum stage varies with the species grown (Table 1) and the time of the year. Some species may be harvested at a less mature stage during the summer, when warmer temperatures may induce rapid development. Morning harvest is often advantageous over afternoon harvests, because the temperature is lowest during the morning, plant water content is high, and the rest of the day is available for packing and flower distribution.

Temperature
As storage temperatures rise, respiration and water loss increases and wilting ensues. Therefore, rapid cooling is imperative to remove field heat and greatly improve quality and vase life of cut flowers. Cool flowers as soon as possible and maintain a temperature range of 32 to 35oF (0-2oC). Just a few additional degrees warmth can significantly decrease vase life.
Flowers stored at 41oF, for example, may deteriorate up to four times faster than those stored at 32oF. However, to increase water uptake initially, place the stems in warm water and allow the water to reach ambient temperature gradually. Once packed, flowers are difficult to adequately cool. Try to pack the flowers in a cold room and, when possible, force cool air through perforations in the storage boxes.

Relative Humidity
The ratio of water vapor pressure in the air to vapor pressure in saturated air at a given temperature is known as relative humidity (RH). Relative humidity can be determined by comparison of the wet bulb and dry bulb temperatures on a psychrometric chart. Devices for measuring these properties are available commercially at a low cost. Proper RH plays a significant role in increasing longevity of cut flowers. Strive for a RH over 90%, but less than 100%. If water droplets start forming on the flowers and foliage, a common fungus known as botrytis may attack.

Nutrition
Starch and sugars (carbohydrates) stored in cut flowers are responsible for flower opening and longevity. Carbohydrate levels are highest when cut flowers are grown under proper nutrition, temperatures, light levels, and water supply.
Quality and longevity of cut flowers are improved by placing stems in sugar (sucrose) water. Place the flowers in a cool room but in warm water (110oF/43oC). Sugar added to holding solutions will enhance flower size and color throughout the vase life of the flowers. Many excellent commercial floral preservatives are available on the market today, some of which come in powder form to be mixed with water.
Automated application systems can be purchased to mix solutions more easily, and premixed are available with a liquid silver treatment (see ethylene section) as well.

Water
Plant tissue is comprised mainly of water (at least 95%). Water loss in cut flowers can occur rapidly leading to wilting.
Maintaining a low temperature helps to reduce water loss and allows easier rehydration after shipping. Try to prevent any wilting, which will shorten vase life. While it is common to handle flowers dry and rehydrate them later, vase life generally suffers. Stems will normally accept water as long as the xylem tissues (water conducting channels) are not blocked. Air bubbles may be drawn into the stem at time of harvest, resulting in restricted upward movement of water. Eliminate
the blockage by removing an inch of the end of stems under water. Water uptake is enhanced by acidic (pH 3 to 4) and warm (110oF/43oC) water. Microorganisms such as bacteria also plug water conducting channels, necessitating the use of clean containers and solutions which contain germicides.
The lowered pH will also discourage bacterial colonization. Rehydrate wilted flowers in deionized water along with a germicide. Acidify the water with citric acid, 8-HQC (8-hydroxyquinoline citrate) or aluminum sulfate. Do not add sucrose to water when attempting to rehydrate wilted flowers. Rehydrate flowers in a cold room, but begin with water at 110oF/43oC. This same treatment is appropriate for treating non-wilted flowers, except sucrose may be added.
Hard water significantly reduces vase life. However, this can be overcome by deionizing or acidifying the water. Commercial flower preservatives are useful but may not be enough; in cases of very hard or alkaline water, additional acid will be required. High levels of sodium (Na), fluoride (F), or sulfate (SO4) can be toxic. Contact your county educator for help in acquiring a water test to determine salt levels from your water source. This test is inexpensive and will provide information on which to base chemical choice and chemical quantity decisions. Do not use chemically softened water in any stage of cut flower storage.

Light
Light is not as great of concern as other factors mentioned earlier; however, chronic darkness will cause foliar deterioration. Remember, optimum light levels during production are important to ensure high quality cut flowers.

Ethylene
Flowers generate ethylene gas as a part of the normal aging process. This gas is also given off by several types of ripening fruits, gasoline or propane combustion, and during welding.
Air containing 100 parts per billion ethylene (0.00001%) may damage flowers in the vicinity. Thus, a very minute amount can wreak havoc in the storage area. Besides avoiding ethylene producing sources near cut flower production and harvest areas, provide proper air circulation for dilution of the gas.
Silver thiosulfate (STS) reduces harmful effects of ethylene and is readily available in various formulations. This product may be recycled and the costly silver recovered. In addition, silver is a heavy metal which pollutes soil and groundwater. SuperCan® is a silver recovery system long used by individuals in the photographic industry. This system allows the silver to be recycled to save money while sparing the environment. Refrigeration also helps to reduce ethylene production and lowers the sensitivity of vulnerable flower species (Table 2.

Geotropism
Geotropism is a growth response to gravity. Unless spikes of flowers such as gladiolus and snapdragon are shipped upright, spikes will bend upward (negative geotropism), causing abnormally shaped flowers. Most flowers, however, can be shipped horizontally.

Mechanical Damage
Avoid bruising and breaking cut flowers which reduces their aesthetic value and, thus, their wholesale/retail value. Pathogens (disease organisms) may gain access through wounded areas and, thus, further decrease their value. Ethylene production and respiration are both natural wound responses. These two reactions greatly accelerate in response to mechanical damage and, thus, shorten postharvest life. Species Stage of development Table 1. Continued.

Diseases
Flowers and foliage packed moist after harvest are very susceptible to a number of disease organisms. Condensation of water on the flowers or foliage encourages diseases. Avoid moving flowers directly from cool to warm rooms which results in water droplets forming. Botrytis (gray mold) is the most common disease wherever excessive moisture occurs. Although botrytis can be controlled by fungicides, proper environmental management is the best method. Reduce excessive humidity and do not allow water to sit on the flowers and foliage.

Insects
Insect damage is rarely encountered as long as refrigeration is provided. However, insect damage during production reduces quality and provides entry points for diseases.

Cut Flower Storage/Display Facilities
A number of quality flower coolers are commercially available today. Choose a model that fits your needs and also controls critical environmental factors, mentioned earlier, as closely as possible. When choosing a cooler look for one that not only will provide proper environmental needs, but also will help market the flowers. In other words, purchase a cooler that is functional and attractive. One major purchase decision is whether to buy an enclosed or open-air flower cooler. An enclosed cooler controls temperature and humidity to near ideal conditions, allowing for prolonged cut flower storage. An open-air cooler will not maintain the favorable conditions as well as an enclosed cooler but is preferred for customer convenience.
Open air coolers tend to be more inviting for customers to visit, and are especially appropriate in businesses with rapid turnover of floral stock. When feasible, choose a triple pane glass or heated glass floral cooler. During hot and humid weather in Oklahoma, condensation can form easily on cool, thin glass, thus blocking the consumers’ view of flowers. Insulation of three to four inches is also advisable for energy efficient use. Avoid placing the cooler in direct sunlight, for further energy savings.
Newer models control ethylene with filters that can be placed inside. One additional feature to consider is the dual temperature controls, for allowing storage of temperate and tropical flowers at the same time.
Growers/marketers should contact their local cooler manufacturer for assistance in building a cooler. Not only will suppliers be eager to sell parts and offer maintenance, but some can assist with engineering skills and advice in the construction of the cooler.

What is a flower?

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Mon, 16 Mar 2009 16:24:00 +0000

What is a flower? So simple a question would scarcely need an answer if flowers were only just as simple. Actually they are extremely complex and it would cater to the vanity of the sentimentalist if we could say they where created only for our enjoyment -- their alluring forms, their color and frequently their quite seductive odor. But such a concept is fantastically false. The true function of flowers is reproduction and nothing else, and upon the sex life of flowers our very existance depends. Without it there would be no weat or rice, no coffee or chocolate, no timber or cotton, no quinine or digitalis, and in a few years the earth would return to something like its reputed condition in the first chapters of Genesis.

In what does the sex life of flowers consist? Basically it is very like the reproduction process in man or any other animal. Male and female must be brought together at the proper time in order that fertilization may be completed to perpetuate the race.

How do flowers accomplish this? While the sex organs of flowers are their most essential organs, they do not usually stand naked and their arrangement within the flower is neither an accidental nor has nature left these delicate sex organs without proper protection. To understand their arrangement it is necessary to look at a typical flower rather carefully. Just the beneath the showy petals is a usually greenish envelope known as a calyx which is often divided into individual sepals. This calyx usually covers the flower while it is stil in bud, and even after the flowers opens is still the outer envelope of normal flowers. The next inner circle of organs comprise the petals, which are sometimes of seperate segments, as in a pink, but are quite often united to form a cup-shaped corolla, as in the lily-of-the-valley.

Within these outer envelopes of calyx and coralla are placed the sex organs. They consist, usualy of a central female organ, including an ovary, clustered around which are the male organs of stamens. These produce the familiar yellow "dust" which is the male fertilizing pollen. This, at the proper time, must be deposited upon the prolongation of the ovary (known as the style and stigma). This usually happens when the stigma is slightly sticky. What is called pollination is then completed, and the stage is set for the fertilization of the ovules. It is these fertilizied ovules (future seeds) within the ovary (the future fruit) that ensure the perpetuation of nearly all flowers.

Seed Germination

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 22:00:00 +0000

Greetings fellow Gardeners!
The following tutorial refers to tomato growing specifically, but can easily be used for most vegetable
gardening starts and annual flowers. Enjoy the following gardening tips.
The following information is for general germination techniques that work well for the majority of plant
seeds that don't require special care. For example, most vegetables, herbs, and summer type flowers. Of
course, there are lots of specialty seeds and plants that require specific techniques but as I am not a
professional horticulturist, but a home gardener like yourselves, I will stick with what I know!
For basic seed germination you need a few things. First of all your seeds! It is always a
good idea that if you are just starting out, to start with seeds that are forgiving and
germinate easily and quickly! We all want to be successful as gardeners!
I am basically a vegetable gardener so every year I start out with my tomato plant seeds in
late February to early March. I like to get a ten week minimum head start before it is
planting time outside. Once you have your seeds, then you need to gather up your pots,
bag of soil, a soil thermometer, a household fan, , an inexpensive outlet timer, a watering
can, plant tags and what else you think you need. Don't' worry, I will go over each item and
my rationale for having them in my arsenal!
LIGHTING: If you don't have a south facing window area like me, then you need to
consider investing in a shop light at your local hardware store and a couple of "grow light
bulbs". The shop light is around $10-$15 which is cheap lighting but the grow lights are
kind of spendy, but well worth it. They are specifically made to project the correct colored
light rays for the seedlings. Keep your lights just barely above the growing seedlings.
POTS: OK, so I am cheap! I reuse pots and flats from the previous year!
No biggie as long as they are cleaned out and dipped in a solution of 10:1 water to
household bleach solution before using. This kills any lingering diseases or fungus
spores from last year. Course, if you are using brand new pots, then skip this step!
SOIL: Always use new potting soil ! I know, garden soil can be used as long
as it is sterilized first but why bother ! Potting soil is cheap and already
sterilized. I personally like Whitney Farm's Germinating Mix (Ingredients: A
soil less mix consisting of fine-screened Sphagnum Peat Moss, Fine Perlite,
Fine Vermiculite, Sand, and Fine Pumice. ) for small seeds like petunias and
tomatoes. but any good brand will do. For larger seeds like squashes and
cucumbers, I use the cheapest generic soil mix available. It has coarser
texture and stuff like stick chunks but the larger seeds can push up through it
and the roots like the coarser texture to grow into. Makes transplanting easy
as the soil doesn't fall off the root ball like the finer stuff does.
Most commercial mixes contain : high-quality sphagnum peat, fine vermiculite
and often perlite, a very small quantity of limestone, a wetting agent and
enough fertilizer to last through two or three waterings For a home made mix
(per gallon) My personal home-made soil mix: 1 part store bought bagged
soil, 1 part peat moss, and 1 part perlite. You can also add as an option,1 part organic compost for an added
nutritional boost.
As for fertilizer, that would come later in the watering can when I water. Seeds do not need fertilizers or
additional nutrients until they are established and are growing leaves. The most important thing to remember
when using peat moss is that it doesn't retain or wick moisture well. Once you have it dampened, you can't let it
dry out completely or you will lose your seeds from dehydration! A good rule of thumb is to mix your seed
starting mix the day before sowing and dampen it. Recheck the moisture level the next day before you plant your
seeds, then keep the mix "slightly damp" until ready to transplant. Your seedlings will pop up quickly through this
mix and once established well, then you will be ready to "pot up" into larger containers with standard soil mix
(here is where the generic cheap soil mix comes in).
SOIL THERMOMETER: Why? So you know the temperature of your soil! Most seeds
don't like cold wet soil and will refuse to germinate, even rot! Now, this is more
important for starting seeds in your unheated greenhouse I admit, but I use mine
indoors to monitor the ambient general temperatures surrounding my seed
environment. Also since I use a heating mat to give my seeds a head start, I can make
sure that the soil isn't getting too hot. This first year I used a plant heating mat, I
couldn't understand why none of the seeds were germinating. I check the soil temp and
found out that the soil was nearly one hundred degrees! So, I use some wood slats and
raised the seed flats off the mats by an inch or two and within a few days, seedlings
started to emerge! I learned that since I start my seed indoors and the average room
temperature is around seventy, that the mats got too hot when in direct contact with the
flats! So by raising them, I got the temp closer to 75-80 and the seeds germinated!
Remember, this is tomatoes we are talking about. For general seed germination, the soil temp should be in the
60-75 degree range. If your soil temp is staying too warm, then the heat needs to be turned down or preferable
off in the room where the seed flats are at. Seedlings like a night time temp of 50-60 degrees so the plant can
harden off gradually. I had my heat mats plugged into my timer so at night when the lights and fan turned off, so
did the heat mats. Once the seeds have germinated, turn off the heat mats permanently. They don't need them
and you want your seedlings to grow up stout and ready to go outside in the real world!
HOUSEHOLD FAN: The number two reason for seed failure is a fungus called "damping off". The fungus
attacks the tender stems at the soil level and before you know it, your precious seedlings have fallen over and
are dying. Nothing you can do at that point. So, the trick here is prevention! This is where the household fan
comes in. By maintaining a steady low flow of air circulating in your seedling room, you help keep the top layer of
soil dry enough that the fungus doesn't grow. I have had no seedling damping off since I tried this years ago and
continue faithfully to use the fan every spring. Of course in the greenhouse setting, you have to provide a cross
ventilation through your windows, doors and fan system if you have one. I have my fan hooked up to my timer so
than when the lights come on, the fan comes on too! Works great!
TIMER: Onto the timer, this is where it gets tricky. Some plants are light sensitive such as marigolds while others
could care less. So for simplicity sake, let's stick with tomatoes. I start my seedlings in late February. I will start
out my daylight hours with the timer set to eight hours on and sixteen hours off. Then as the plants grow, I
gradually extend the daylight hours until I hit twelve and twelve. This seems to work great for tomatoes. By the
time they are ready for moving into my outdoor greenhouse in April, they are nice and stout, deep green and
look fabulous. Also by using a timer, I don't have to worry if we are out of town a few days. The plants will never
miss me!
WATERING CAN: Well, this is a no brainer. I use a gallon milk jug often times so I can mix my fertilizer correctly,
then pour that mixture into a watering can for individual pot watering. OK, here is the Number One Cause of
seed failure!: Over watering! Don't drown your seedlings. The soil should never be more than slightly damp. If
the soil feels damp, don't water! I finally broke down and bought a water meter. The soil may look dry on top but
the meter says it's plenty damp underneath! Great tool and one can be picked up for around $6.00. For
fertilizing, I use a liquid hydroponic solution that is balanced and has all the
nutrients that the plant needs. After all, hydroponic systems don't use any soil
and the plants are totally dependent on the nutrients provided. Of course, general
products such as Miracle Grow are just fine too. Dilute the solution to half the
recommended concentration. I add nutrients to my watering can every time I
water. I feel that the plants get a sustainable and constant feeding this way. After
all, you wouldn't want to go for three days on just water, then get a mega meal to
make up! Plants are constantly growing and need nutrients just like children!
Here is a great idea for conserving water in your outdoor garden! A Poor Man's
drip system, if you will. Fertigating: (See picture on right) Works great with any
type soil, especially heavy or gravel type soils like ours. Drill a 3/16 hole near the bottom on one of your plastic
bucket or gallon milk jug and you are all set. I like the idea of the gallon jug so I can put in the correct amount of
nutrients as stated on the packet and not worry about over or underfeeding. Just fill your bucket with quantity of
water you want per plant, add your nutrients if desired and walk away!
PLANT TAGS AND PERMANENT MARKER: A must have before you even start
planting. Believe me, you won't be able to remember what every tray has in it. Then
when you are ready to transplant, you already have the tag and it goes right in with
the plant in it's new pot! Nothing more frustrating than "mystery plants"!
Onto Planting! : OK, you have your premixed dampened
soil which you prepare the previous day. Your pots are
cleaned and sterilized. Your have your plant tags, pen,
seeds, and pots. Let's go! Lightly fill each pot or section 3/4
full of soil mix but don't pack down. Using your finger, or the back end of the pen, knife
or what have you and create a depression at least three times the diameter of the seed
or in most cases about ¼ inch deep. Drop in one or two seeds. I like to overseed
slightly so I have something sprouted in every section. I have no problem in pinching
off extras later! Gently tap the soil back over the seed and press down lightly but don't
compress! Gently water the section with tepid warm tap water, place your printed plant
tag and move on. When the whole tray is filled, then cover with a clear tray top or clear
plastic wrap and tuck underneath. There, you are done for now! Place under the light so that the light bulbs are
no more than three to four inches above the seed flat. The further the light is away, the less intensity the
seedlings will get and you will have weak, spindly plants that will probably die. I place the shop light fixture right
over the top of the seed tray cover. Not only do the seeds get the most intense light but the warm heat from the
bulbs help in germinating too. No need to take the cover off again until you see sprouts!
In a few days, you will start seeing seedlings appear.
Now, it is time to remove the cover so the emerging

seedlings can get the circulated air from your fan. No
need to fertilized until they have started to show true
leaves. See the picture to the right. Notice on this
pumpkin seedlings that the first two seed leaves are
rounded (fig 1). These are called the "seed leaves".
Then the "true leaves" start to come on. This is the
serrated looking leaf (fig 2) and notice the newly
emerging leaf in the center. The white arrow points to a new true leaf just
emerging.
You will notice in the sprouts picture on the left, that three out of four seeds have sprouted so far. That's 75%
which is considered average for most garden seeds. I checked and found the final seed is sprouting but just
below the soil surface.
Probably in about a week, these sprouts will be ready to be transplanted into the outdoor garden. I am looking
forward to growing my first crop of popcorn (Japanese Hull-less popcorn)!
There, you've done it! You have now planted and germinated your own seeds for your garden!

When you judge that your plants are outgrowing their cells or section, gently remove one
from it's cell and look at the soil ball. Do you see white roots extending from the side of the
ball and maybe starting to curl around the exterior? OK! It's time to transplant up into a
larger pot and a more sturdier soil mix as described above.

Dozens of petunia plants for my garden and for selling at the Master Gardener's Fair this spring!
Congratulations, you are a true gardener! I hope you enjoy this quick tutorial on seed starting. All instructions
contained here are from my own personal experiences. Your situation may be different and your seeds may
need special conditions, lighting, temperatures and soils. Please consult some good gardening books for more
info such as American Horticultural Society Series including their excellent A-Z Plant Encyclopedia, Plant and
Propagation book and others found in your local library. For more specific planting help, please call your local
county Extension office and ask to speak to a "Master Gardener". He or she would be more than happy to help
you find solutions and be successful as a home gardener.

Weird and wonderful ways to naturally control garden snails and slugs

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Sat, 07 Mar 2009 17:42:00 +0000

Weird and wonderful ways to naturally control garden snails and slugs
Excellent ideas on how to control an over population of garden snails. Important information to have as you really don't want to spend your time and money preparing a garden only to wake up and find it all eaten. In the case of my Raised Garden Bed - No Dig Garden I knew I would have a problem with these little critters. There were small shrubs nearby and it had also been raining, I had seen the tell tale signs of snail trails heading for the new garden. Combine that with a few dozen seedlings and it was the chance for a feast.
There was no way I wanted to use any commercially prepared snail bait as I had the pets and local birds etc to consider. These natural organic gardening techniques have been around for many years - maybe you have some of your own and would like to share with the rest of us. Please fill in the form below and you can get your idea published on this site.

NATURAL GARDEN SNAIL SOLUTIONS

Snail Salt Trap - a classic
It is always more beneficial to manage garden pests with natural and sustainable solutions. This just has to be one to the easiest ways to manage garden pests such as snails and slugs - and it is something you more than likely have in the kitchen and is a wonderful snail bait solution.

They will NOT walk over salt, they hate the stuff

When I plant new seedlings and I know they are going to be attacked by slugs and snails I always place salt on the paths that lead to the new bed.
I sprinkle the salt just on dark as they are more active then. This is a fantastic ecological solution and really fits in line with organic gardening advice no matter where you live.

This is how I place the salt over the path at my home. It is thick and wide. I am very generous with the amount of salt I use as I know it works well and I really want to protect the plants.
The salt will blow away quite a lot in a strong wind I found.
Naturally this snail and slug trap won't work at all during wet weather. I use the beer trap on those occasions as another home pest control idea

Human or Animal Hair
Organic Garden Pest Control For Snails and Slugs

One of the most natural organic garden pest control ideas you can use to help stop a snail is hair - human or animal hair. It even works in controlling slugs. Imagine that!
If you are 'hair challenged' fear not.
You can always ask your local hairdresser or pet groomer for their supplies. I imagine they would be more than happy to see the fruits of their labor being used for such a worthy cause.

I have used this natural method and can say it worked quite well for a while.
After grooming our giant schnauzer I placed his hair around some new lettuce plants. I had a reasonable amount of hair and it came out about 5 inches from the base of the plant so it was good coverage. Because there was a fair amount of hair it held together well and did not blow away.
However, I did find after rain the hair became flat and wet. The snails were then able to wander over the hair onto the plants so it was not that effective when I needed it most.
I do use this method still though and mix egg shells with the hair as the eggshells are not effected by rain.

Crushed Eggshells
Eggshells can prevent snails from eating your young plants

Yet another use for old eggshells. Snails and slugs have a soft underbelly which makes it difficult for them to travel over crushed eggshells.

I have never had enough egg shells to be able to put this theory to the test but you could always ask a local cafe or restaurant if you could collect from them.
I have combined eggshells and hair to deter these pests and that has been successful, I do think it is a better slug catcher than many I have seen.
I always wash the eggshells in clear water before I crush them too much as the mucus from the eggshell may attract other pests. No point in getting rid of one vegetable garden pest only to end up with another one. hair to deter these pests and that has been successful.
I always wash the eggshells in clear water before I crush them too much as the mucus from the eggshell may attract other pests.

Bird Netting is a great idea also
What Do Snails Eat?
New gardeners often ask 'what do snails eat'? I guess gardeners are keen to have early success and I can understand that. Gardening is as much about the actual act of gardening as it is being able to eventually see the product of your labors.
I am never really sure exactly which specific plants snails do eat, I just work on the premise they will eat any new plants and work from there.

I have found amazing success when dealing with garden pests that bird netting placed around the base of pots when the plants are young is a great way to keep snails and slugs away. Once the plants are older I really find they are not as interested.
I place the bird netting all around the base of the pots right up against the side of the pot. These areas can often remain moist for long periods of time and can also attract slugs.
I have never had a snail climb over the bird netting to get to the plant - not once - 100% success. It can look a little untidy in the beginning but as the plant grows the leaves tend to cover the visible netting.

Let them eat porridge / oats
Garden slugs are a real menace and threat to young plants

I really think garden slugs and snails are tuned to know when you plant new seedlings - they must be watching from under some shrub!
This idea was sent to me from Susan who has great success with it - I have not tried it myself - I can't imagine giving my porridge away. But I guess if it came down to a choice of slug and lettuce or slug and porridge, I would choose the porridge every time.

Apparently you place the porridge / oats around the new plants or along the border. If I was to use this idea I would make sure I had a relatively thick spread of porridge / oats.
The snails come along and devour the porridge - this makes them bloat up and die!!!!
In the morning the birds come along and eat them all, a treat for the birds as they get their protein and grain in one meal.
I have never had enough egg shells to be able to put this theory to the test but you could always ask a local cafe or restaurant if you could collect from them.
I have combined eggshells and hair to deter these pests and that has been successful, I do think it is a better slug catcher than many I have seen.
I always wash the eggshells in clear water before I crush them too much as the mucus from the eggshell may attract other pests. No point in getting rid of one vegetable garden pest only to end up with another one. hair to deter these pests and that has been successful.
I always wash the eggshells in clear water before I crush them too much as the mucus from the eggshell may attract other pests.

Give them a shock with copper wire
Vegetable Garden Pest in for a shock
This vegetable garden pest idea is about the most effective I have heard of so far for controlling slugs.
Up until now it has always been me getting a shock over the state of the new plants – not any more, it seems the shock can go both ways.
If the snails or slugs try to wander over the copper wire they get a very small zap. This causes them to backtrack and leave your young plants alone.
Where possible try to secure a small copper wire around the perimeter of your garden bed.
The raised garden bed style of gardening is ideal for this as it has raised edges which can hold the wire. Please have a look at my other pages for more organic gardening advice.

Top 10 Plants for Garden

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Thu, 26 Feb 2009 23:41:00 +0000

1. Confederate Jasmine - Trachelospermum Jasminoides

The confederate jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is generally described as a Perennial Vine. This Dicot (dicotyledon) is not native to the U.S. (United States) and has its most active growth period in the Spring and Summer . The Confederate Jasmine has Dark Green foliage and conspicuous Orange flowers, with conspicuous fruits or seeds. Leaves are retained year to year. The Confederate Jasmine has a Long life span relative to most other plant species and a Rapid growth rate. At maturity, the typical Confederate Jasmine will reach up to 2 feet high, with a maximum height at 20 years of 2 feet.

The Confederate Jasmine is easily found in nurseries, garden stores and other plant dealers and distributors. It can be propagated by Bare Root, Container and Cuttings. Note that cold stratification is not required for seed germination and the plant cannot survive exposure to temperatures below 7°F. Confederate Jasmine has Medium tolerance to drought and restricted water conditions.
2. Rosemary - Rosmarinus Officinalis

Rosemary is an attractive evergreen shrub with pine needle-like leaves. It's trusses of blue flowers last through spring and summer in a warm, humid environment. It will grow to a height of between 3 and 5 feet.
3. Flowering Dogwood - Cornus Florida

Cornus florida (Flowering Dogwood, syn. Benthamidia florida (L.) Spach) is a species of dogwood native to eastern North America, from southern Maine west to southern Ontario and eastern Kansas, and south to northern Florida and eastern Texas and also in Illinois, with a disjunct population in eastern Mexico in Nuevo León and Veracruz.
A single inflorescence, showing the large, white petal-like bracts and the tight cluster of small greenish-yellow flowers.

Flowering dogwood is a small deciduous tree growing to 10 m (30 ft) high, often wider than it is tall when mature, with a trunk diameter of up to 30 cm (1 ft). A 10-year-old tree will stand about 5 m (15 ft) tall. The leaves are opposite, simple, oval with acute tips, 6-13 cm long and 4-6 cm broad, with an apparently entire margin (actually very finely toothed, under a lens); they turn a rich red-brown in fall.

The flowers are individually small and inconspicuous, with four greenish-yellow petals 4 mm long. Around 20 flowers are produced in a dense, rounded, umbel-shaped inflorescence, or flower-head, 1-2 cm in diameter. The flower-head is surrounded by four conspicuous large white, pink or red "petals" (actually bracts), each bract 3 cm long and 2.5 cm broad, rounded, and often with a distinct notch at the apex. The flowers are bisexual.

While most of the wild trees have white bracts, some selected cultivars of this tree also have pink bracts, some even almost a true red. They typically flower in early April in the southern part of their range, to late April or early May in northern and high altitude areas. The similar Kousa Dogwood (Cornus kousa), native to Asia, flowers about a month later.
Close up of a flower cluster showing the four yellow petals on each flower.

The fruit is a cluster of two to ten drupes, each 10-15 mm long and about 8 mm wide, which ripen in the late summer and the early fall to a bright red, or occasionally yellow with a rosy blush. They are an important food source for dozens of species of birds, which then distribute the seeds.
4. Coconut Palm - Cocos Nucifera

The Coconut Palm (Cocos nucifera) is a member of the Family Arecaceae (palm family). It is the only species in the genus Cocos, and is a large palm, growing to 30 m tall, with pinnate leaves 4-6 m long, pinnae 60-90 cm long; old leaves break away cleanly leaving the trunk smooth. The term coconut refers to the seed of the coconut palm. An alternate spelling is cocoanut.

The coconut palm is grown throughout the tropical world, for decoration as well as for its many culinary and non-culinary uses; virtually every part of the coconut palm has some human uses.

The coconut has spread across much of the tropics, probably aided in many cases by seafaring people. The fruit is light and buoyant and presumably spread significant distances by marine currents. Fruits collected from the sea as far north as Norway have been found to be viable (and subsequently germinated under the right conditions). In the Hawaiian Islands, the coconut is regarded as a Polynesian introduction, first brought to the islands by early Polynesian voyagers from their homelands in the South Pacific. They are now almost ubiquitous between 26ºN and 26ºS.

The flowers of the coconut palm are polygamomonoecious, with both male and female flowers in the same inflorescence. Flowering occurs continuously, with female flowers producing seeds. Coconut palms are believed to be largely cross-pollinated, although some dwarf varieties are self-pollinating. Coconuts also come with a liquid that is clear like water but sweet. The "Nut" of the coconut is edible and is in the shape of a ball or is on the inside sides of the coconut.
5. American Holly - Ilex Opaca

The bright red berries, distinct deep green leaves, small white flowers and the diversity of the plant makes it an excellent choice for many homes.

The American Holly grows in several zones, specifically Zones 5 to 9, and is well adapted to almost all soil types. This means the plant is fine in clay or sandy, acidic or rich soil and everything in between. It is very hardy and thrives in full sun or partial shade.

One of the best features of the American Holly is the fact that it can either serve as a focal point in a garden, growing to heights of 40 to 50 feet, with the typical evergreen pyramid shape. If it is privacy that you crave, the American Holly can be trimmed down to serve as a hedge.

Despite the functions of the tree, the American Holly offers food and homes to many animals and you will find yourself not only enjoying year round color but also a host of friendly animals to your yard. It is a well-known fact that the luscious berries that reach maturity between September and October are enjoyed as a food source by birds and deer alike. I should mention that, although deer and birds enjoy the berries they are poisonous to humans.

Lastly, if you are interested in having a successful American Holly in your yard, complete with berries, it is important to plan for more than one. The American Holly is a dioecious, which means that male and female are found in separate plants. To pollinate correctly, there must be more than one tree. Another detractor of the American Holly is its slow growth rate. On average, an American Holly can take roughly 4 to 7 years before it even begins to blossom and it gains an average of only 12 to 24″ in height each year.

Still, despite its detractors, the American Holly is a hardy plant that grows in a wide variety of zones, soils and geographical areas. It is a perfect addition to any yard, whether you want a decorative tree or a nice hedge.
6. Weeping Willow - Salix Sepulcralis

BOTANISTS would probably agree that, among flowering plants and trees, there is not a more puzzling group than the Willows. Though of comparatively recent introduction, there is no Willow so popular and familiar, from its exceptional form and beauty, as the Babylonian, or "Weeping" species (Salix babylonica). With the Poplars, the Willows form the Natural Order Salicaceae, a group, the smallest of which is entitled to the name of shrub, though within the arctic circle they sometimes do not exceed two or three inches in height.

The whole group are characterized by having their flowers in catkins, the "staminate," or male blossoms being on distinct trees from the "pistillate," or female ones. Among the difficulties of the study of Willows are the facts, that the male and female trees are often dissimilar, that in many species the flowers and the leaves are produced at different times of the year, and that hybrids (i.e. seedlings resulting from the fertilization of the pistil of one species by the pollen of another) frequently occur. The Willows differ from the Poplars in having generally narrower leaves, these being for the most part lance-shaped, with a finely-toothed margin, often pale-colored on their under surfaces, and furnished with the two small leaf-like appendages, known as "stipules," at their bases, though these often fall off early. The catkins of the Willows are made up of scales, or "bracts," fringed with hairs, but not notched like those of the Poplars; nor is there in the former group the least vestige of a "perianth." In the genus as a whole the number of stamens is variable; but in the Weeping Willow, as in many other species, there are two in the axil of each scale of the male, or "golden palm" catkin, which, however, is little known in this case.

Willows belong mainly to the arctic and north temperate zones, and the Weeping Willow proper seems to be a native of extra-tropical Asia, from Japan and China to Armenia and the banks of the Euphrates, and of Egypt and North Africa; but pendulous varieties of other species are also known in cultivation.

Though some kinds of Willow inhabit the barren tops of alpine mountains, or the equally barren plains of arctic latitudes, the Weeping Willow agrees with the majority of its genus in frequenting the water-side, or at least some situation where its roots can obtain a good supply of moisture. In such spots it may attain a height of forty or fifty feet in as many years, with a diameter of two or three feet.

The Weeping Willow belongs to the group known as Crack Willows, from the brittleness of their twigs at the joints. These belong to the section of the genus known as Vitisalix, characterized by producing their leaves and flowers simultaneously; by their flower-stalks bearing fully-developed leaves; by their catkin-scales being of a uniform, generally pale, color; by the filaments of their stamens being perfectly free from one another and hairy on the lower part, while the capsules are free from hairs; and by their leaves being "convolute"--i.e. rolled together in the bud, like a scroll of paper, with one free edge. Considering that we have between eighty and ninety distinct kinds of Willow in this country alone, the above apparently elaborate description of one of the three main divisions of the genus is not mere technical refinement.

The section Vitisalix contains three series, distinguished by having five, three, or two stamens respectively to each flower; and the last of these three series, to which, as has been implied, the Weeping Willow belongs, contains two minor groups, the Albae, or White Willows, and the Fragiles, or Crack Willows. The White Willows have minute stipules, "ovate-lanceolate" in form, capsules almost stalkless, and stigmas not only forked, but recurved. The Crack Willows, on the other hand, have good-sized "semi-cordate" stipules, stalked capsules, and merely forked stigmas. The several species in the last-mentioned group are distinguished from one another by the color of their young shoots and by the forms of their leaves. The young shoots of the Weeping Willow are pale green, very slender, and with a slight twist at the point of origin of each leaf, being, of course, also distinguished by their drooping habit of growth. The leaves are technically termed "lanceolate, acuminate," being some five inches long and only an inch across, tapering to a point, with a finely-serrated edge, smooth above, and with a grey bloom on their under surfaces. This species is also characterized by the ovate form of its ovary.

As to the scientific name Salix, we are told, in Thomas Newton's "Herball for the Bible" (1587), that--

"The Willow is called Salix, and hath his name a saliendo, for that it quicklie groweth up, and soon becommeth a tree. Herewith do they in some countres trim up their parlours and dining roomes in sommer, and sticke fresh greene leaves thereof about their beds for coolness."

Though this etymology "from leaping" may be doubtful, even with the analogous case of our own word "quick" applied to the Hawthorn, there can be little doubt that the old English name "Sallow" is a corruption from the Latin, whilst the other two names, Willow and Withy, both probably refer to the flexibility of the young branches.

Though the Weeping Willow is commonly planted in burial grounds both in China and in Turkey, its tearful symbolism has been mainly recognized in modern times, and among Christian peoples. As has been well said: "The Cypress was long considered as the appropriate ornament of the cemetery; but its gloomy shade among the tombs, and its thick, heavy foliage of the darkest green, inspire only depressing thoughts, and present death under its most appalling image, whilst the Weeping Willow, on the contrary, rather conveys a picture of the grief felt for the loss of the departed than of the darkness of the grave. Its light and elegant foliage flows like the disheveled hair and graceful drapery of a sculptured mourner over a sepulchral urn, and conveys those soothing, though melancholy reflections that made the poet write--

"'Tis better to have lov'd and lost,
Than never to have lov'd at all.'"

In the classical poets, we meet with only a few allusions to the Willow as growing by the water-side, and as twisted into baskets by the ancient Britons, the word `basket' itself being one of the few words which, under the form "bascauda," ancient Britain seems to have given to the Latin vocabulary; but from Elizabethan times it is invariably the symbol of forsaken love. This is remarkable, since, with one notable exception, all the Biblical references to this group of trees are associated with joyfulness and fertility. Yet for Spenser it is--

"The willow worne of forlorne paramoures;"

whilst in addition to the ballad fragment sung by Desdemona, the beautiful description of Ophelia's death, and various other allusions to the tree, Shakespeare, in the Merchant of Venice, represents Dido lamenting the loss of AEneas

"with a willow in her hand,
Upon the wild sea banks, and waved her love
To come again to Carthage."

It is difficult not to associate the Willow that

"grows ascaunt the brook
That shows his hoar leaves in the glassy stream,"

with the Babylonian species, which, however, Shakespeare certainly never saw; but so pathetic is the lament of the Jewish captives, that one can well believe it may have permanently altered the symbolism of the once joy-inspiring Willow. There is a pretty legend that its boughs first drooped under the weight of the harps, as the exiled Hebrews sang: "By the waters of Babylon we sat down and wept when we remembered thee, O Sion! As for our harps, we hanged them up upon the willow-trees that are therein." The Arabian story-tellers, however, have a very different tale to tell. They relate that David, after he had married Bathsheba, was one day playing on his harp in his private chamber, when two angels appeared before him and convinced him of his sin. Thereupon he threw himself upon the ground, and lay forty days and forty nights weeping bitter tears of penitence; and in those forty days he wept as many tears as the whole human race have, or will, shed on account of their sins, from then until the Day of Judgment; so that two streams of tears flowed out into the garden, whence there sprang up two trees, the Weeping Willow and the Frankincense-tree, the boughs of the one drooping in grief, whilst the other constantly distils tears of sorrow.

The torches used at funerals by the ancients were made of Willow wood; and it may have been a tree of ill omen, seeing that the soothsayers of Babylon are said to have foretold the early death of Alexander the Great, from the fact that the boughs of a Weeping Willow swept the crown from his head as he was crossing the Euphrates in a boat.

This beautiful tree is said to have been introduced into Europe by Tournefort, and was almost certainly first brought to England, in 1748, by Mr. Vernon, a Turkey merchant of Aleppo, who planted a tree, from the Euphrates, at his seat at Twickenham Park. Its alleged introduction by the poet Pope is a poetical fiction, of which there are several versions. The poet, it is said, was with his friend Lady Suffolk, when she received a basket of figs from Turkey, or Spain, and noticing that some of the twigs of the basket seemed to have life in them, he exclaimed: "Perhaps these may produce something that we have not in England," and accordingly planted them in his garden.

As the greenish-yellow flowers that appear in May never produce seed in this species, and as almost all Willows can be readily propagated by slips, this is the way in which this tree is always multiplied, and in this way it was introduced by Governor Beatson into the island of St. Helena, where there are no native Willows. The form, however, planted over the tomb of Napoleon, from which many cuttings have now grown into large trees in England, seems to be a distinct variety, having reddish shoots and no stipules to the leaves.

Though perhaps its wood might be used, like other Willows, for crayon charcoal or for paper pulp, and its bark possesses some of the medicinal and tanning properties of the group, the Weeping Willow is practically a purely ornamental tree. As Gilpin says, it is "a perfect contrast to the Lombardy poplar. The light, airy spray of the poplar rises perpendicularly; that of the weeping willow is pendent. The shape of the leaf is conformable to the pensile character of the tree, and its spray, which is lighter than that of the poplar, is more easily put in motion by a breath of air. The weeping willow, however, is not adapted to sublime subjects. We wish it not to screen the broken buttresses and Gothic windows of an abbey, or to overshadow the battlements of a ruined castle. These offices it resigns to the oak, whose dignity can support them. The weeping willow seeks a humble scene--some romantic footpath bridge, some quiet grave, which it half conceals, or some glassy pond, over which it hangs its streaming foliage." In the words of Cowper, a poet who would be familiar with the newly-introduced species
7. Bush Morning-Glory - Ipomoea Leptophylla

The bush morning-glory (Ipomoea leptophylla) is generally described as a Perennial Forb or herb. This Dicot (dicotyledon) is native to the U.S. (United States) and has its most active growth period in the Spring and Summer . The Bush Morning-Glory has Green foliage and conspicuous Purple flowers, with conspicuous fruits or seeds. The greatest bloom is usually observed in the Summer, with fruit and seed production starting in the Fall and continuing until Winter. Leaves are not retained year to year. The Bush Morning-Glory has a Short life span relative to most other plant species and a Rapid growth rate. At maturity, the typical Bush Morning-Glory will reach up to 3 feet high, with a maximum height at 20 years of 3 feet.

The Bush Morning-Glory is usually not commercially available except under contract. It can be propagated by Bare Root, Container and Seed. It has a Moderate ability to spread through seed production and the seedlings have High vigor. Note that cold stratification is not required for seed germination and the plant cannot survive exposure to temperatures below 47°F. Bush Morning-Glory has Medium tolerance to drought and restricted water conditions.
8. Southern Magnolia - Magnolia Grandiflora

The Southern magnolia, or magnolia grandiflora, is the royalty of Southern trees. Growing easily in agricultural zones 7 to 10, it towers up to 50 feet tall with glossy evergreen foliage and produces large white blossoms that exude a beautiful fragrance. It adapts to a variety of soils, and once planted, requires little care and has few pest problems.
9. Arabian Jasmine - Jasminum Sambac

Many species of jasmine – the delicate floral emblem of Indonesia, Pakistan and the Philippines – are renowned for their superb sensuous scent, and the very valuable essential oil is produced in several countries for perfumery and aromatherapy.

Common jasmine (J. officinale) is a frost-hardy, tall twining climber with compound leaves and five-petaled, intensely fragrant flowers fused into a tube at the base. Brought to Europe in the 16th century, it is now extensively cultivated commercially for its flowers in southern France, Spain, India, Egypt, China, Algeria and Morocco.

Arabian jasmine (J. sambac) is used to make a fragrant tisane in China, the blossoms being hand-picked early in the morning and mixed with dried green or Oolong tea. Native to India, it forms an arching bush.

Double-flowered forms of J. sambac, favored for garlands and religious ceremonies, include the very double, miniature rose-like ‘Duke of Tuscany’ (syn. kudda-mulla), the semi-double ‘Maid of Orléans’ and the smaller-flowered double ‘Belle of India’.

Other common fragrant, white-flowered species include angel wing jasmine (J. nitidum), the pink-budded J. polyanthemum, Azores jasmine (J. azoricum), Canary Island jasmine (J. odoratissimum), J. multiflorum and J. floribundum. There are a number of yellow-flowered species, some fragrant, but they are not used herbally.

* Varieties: Fancy leaf forms include ‘Argenteovariegatum’, ‘Aureum’ and ‘Frojas’. Fragrant J. x stepanense is a pink-flowered hybrid. The large-flowered Catalonian jasmine, also known as royal jasmine, poet’s jasmine or Spanish jasmine, is variously regarded as a variety of J. officinale ‘Grandiflora’, or as the separate species, J. grandiflora.
* Position: Plants prefer a well-drained soil enriched with rotted compost. Most species require warm to tropical climates but in colder areas can make excellent glasshouse plants.
* Propagation: Propagate jasmine from semi-ripened wood cuttings.
* Maintenance: In cold areas J. sambac and its varieties should be overwintered under protection, as they are unlikely to survive frost exposure. Trim J. officinale immediately after flowering.
* Pests and diseases: Jasmine plants grown in the open have few problems; however, those grown under glass can be attacked by whitefly, mealy bugs and spider mites.
* Harvesting and storing: Gather fully developed buds in the early morning and add the opening flowers to tea. You can dry them for herbal use. Lift the roots of J. sambac in autumn and dry them for medicinal use.
10.Golden Bamboo - Phyllostachys Aurea

The golden bamboo (Phyllostachys aurea) is generally described as a Perennial Vine or Shrub or Graminoid. This Monocot (monocotyledon) is not native to the U.S. (United States) and has its most active growth period in the Spring and Summer and Fall . The Golden Bamboo has Green foliage and inconspicuous flowers, with inconspicuous fruits or seeds. Leaves are retained year to year. The Golden Bamboo has a Long life span relative to most other plant species and a Rapid growth rate. At maturity, the typical Golden Bamboo will reach up to 15 feet high, with a maximum height at 20 years of 15 feet.

The Golden Bamboo is usually not commercially available except under contract. It can be propagated by Bare Root, Container and Sprigs. Note that cold stratification is not required for seed germination and the plant cannot survive exposure to temperatures below -3°F. Golden Bamboo has Low tolerance to drought and restricted water conditions.

The Ways to Control Plant Pests on Your Garden

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 16:47:00 +0000

The tell-tale signs are there: C- shaped notches in leaves; stunted growth; and even yellow, wilting leaves - a black vine weevil infestation! This insect infects over 200 plants but the most common include rhododendrons, azaleas and yew. There are few garden pests that are as difficult to get rid of as this weevil but by targeting the young and vulnerable larvae and using a few cultural practices, gardeners can get good control of this nuisance.

Identification

The adult weevil is a dark, oval-shaped insect, ½" in length with a blunt snout and distinct antennae. In North America, all of the adults are females so every insect has the ability to cause and infestation. Feeding occurs at night; the adults do not fly but instead need to crawl up plants. The larvae are off-white in color with dark heads and can also do extensive damage as they feed on plant roots.

Life cycle

The adult weevils emerge from the soil in late May or early June through mid-July. These adults feed for 4-5 weeks in order to produce the 300+ eggs that are dropped into the ground under the plant. The eggs hatch within 2 weeks and the larvae then tunnel into the soil where they feed on plant roots. They then tunnel deeper into the soil to protect themselves from frost and pupate in the spring.

Control Methods

Understanding the lifecycle and feeding practices of the weevil is the key to keeping the pest under control. Since adult weevils feed on leaves during the night and look for dark, moist spots during the day to rest, trapping them in these areas can be quite effective.

Hand picking

With the aid of a flashlight, pick-off the adults in the evening as they come out to feed.

Traps

*Simply placing a white drop cloth under your plant in the evening or early morning and shaking the leaves will help to catch many of the adults.

*During the day, place a board under the plant. Check the board for hiding adults and scrape them off into a bucket of soapy water.

*Place a wrapper around the trunk of the plant
and coat it with a sticky substance such as Tanglefoot. The wrapper should be at least 6" wide.

Mulching

The eggs and larvae of the black vine weevil require moisture to survive. If your plants are heavily mulched, pull back this mulch to allow the surface of the soil to dry out and do not water plants unless necessary.

Beneficial Nematodes

Rather than attacking the adults, beneficial nematodes go after the larvae in the soil and are a safe & natural method of controlling black vine weevil. A few things are critical in order to get good control:

Timing & Temperature - Beneficial nematodes require a soil temperature of at least 60 F to work. Gardeners often miss the critical period in the spring since the weevil larvae pupate fairly early, before the soil warms. The late summer and early fall is the best time to apply nematodes.

Moisture - The root zone around the plant must be moist since nematodes don't swim and require water to carry them through the soil. Water the area before and after application.

Photo

Name, description and damage symptoms

Management

Caterpillar

While you like butterfly plants like passiflora, aristolochia or asclepias
- no way you like what their babies-caterpillars do to them...

Most times, mechanical controls are effective. When young trees are
heavily infested, the use of insecticides may be warranted. If a biological
insecticide is used such as Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), be sure to spray
the entire foliage that is being affected. Caterpillars must eat a good
amount of the treated foliage to be sickened. Bt is most effective for
managing small, young larvae in the spring. If a contact insecticide is
used, treat the larvae that congregated in the early morning. This way,
you do not have to spray the entire tree, just the tents. In doing this,
be sure that your pesticide is penetrating the tent. Making tears into
the tents may be worthwhile before you spray. As the caterpillars mature,
it is important that the surrounding foliage is also treated; the caterpillars
disperse from the tent as food becomes scarce. As with all our chemical
recommendations, be sure to read and follow the label. Be sure to distinguish
label directions for fruiting, edible trees and ornamental trees.

Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects with long, slender mouth parts
that they use to pierce stems, leaves, and other tender plant parts
and suck out plant fluids. Almost every plant has one or more aphid
species that occasionally feeds on it. Many aphid species are difficult
to distinguish; however, identification to species is not necessary
to control them in most situations.

Aphids may be green, yellow, brown, red, or black depending on the
species and the plants they feed on. A few species appear waxy or woolly
due to the secretion of a waxy white or gray substance over their body
surface. All are small, pear-shaped insects with long legs and antennae.
Most species have a pair of tubelike structures called cornicles projecting
backwards out of the hind end of their bodies. The presence of cornicles
distinguishes aphids from all other insects.

Generally adult aphids are wingless, but most species also occur in
winged forms, especially when populations are high or during spring
and fall. The ability to produce winged individuals provides the pest
with a way to disperse to other plants when the quality of the food
source deteriorates.

Although they may be found singly, aphids often feed in dense groups
on leaves or stems. Unlike leafhoppers, plant bugs, and certain other
insects that might be confused with them, most aphids do not move rapidly
when disturbed.

Life Cycle. Aphids have many generations a year. Most aphids in California's
mild climate reproduce asexually throughout most or all of the year
with adult females giving birth to live offspring (often as many as
12 per day) without mating. Young aphids are called nymphs. They molt,
shedding their skins about four times before becoming adults. There
is no pupal stage. Some species mate and produce eggs in fall or winter,
which provides them a more hardy stage to survive harsh weather. In
some cases, these eggs are laid on an alternative host, usually a perennial
plant, for winter survival. When the weather is warm, many species of
aphids can develop from newborn nymph to reproducing adult in 7 to 8
days. Because each adult aphid can produce up to 80 offspring in a matter
of a week, aphid populations can increase with great speed.

Low to moderate numbers of leaf-feeding aphids are usually not damaging
in gardens or on trees. However, large populations cause curling, yellowing,
and distortion of leaves and stunting of shoots; they can also produce
large quantities of a sticky exudate known as honeydew, which often
turns black with the growth of a sooty mold fungus. Some aphid species
inject a toxin into plants, which further distorts growth. A few species
cause gall formations.

Check your plants regularly for aphids--at least twice weekly when
plants are growing rapidly. Many species of aphids cause the greatest
damage when temperatures are warm but not hot (65° to 80°F). Catch infestations
early. Once aphid numbers are high and they have begun to distort and
curl leaves, it is often hard to control them because the curled leaves
shelter aphids from insecticides or natural enemies.

Many aphid species prefer the undersides of leaves, so turn them over
to check them. On trees, clip off leaves from several areas of the tree
to check for aphids. Also check for evidence of natural enemies such
as lady beetles, lacewings, syrphid fly larvae, and the mummified skins
of parasitized aphids. Look for disease-killed aphids as well: they
may appear off-color, bloated, or flattened. Substantial numbers of
any of these natural control factors can mean that the aphid population
may be reduced rapidly without the need for treatment.

Biological Control. Many predators also feed on aphids. The most well
known are lady beetle adults and larvae, lacewing larvae, and syrphid
fly larvae. Naturally occurring predators work best, especially in a
small backyard situation. Commercially available lady beetles may give
some temporary control when properly handled, although most of them
will disperse away from your yard within a few days.

Aphids are very susceptible to fungal diseases when it is humid. Whole
colonies of aphids can be killed by these pathogens when conditions
are right.

Where aphid populations are localized on a few curled leaves or new
shoots, the best control may be to prune these areas out and dispose
of them. In large trees, some aphids thrive in the dense inner canopy;
pruning these areas out can make the habitat less suitable.

High levels of nitrogen fertilizer favor aphid reproduction. Never
use more nitrogen than necessary. Use less soluble forms of nitrogen
and apply it in small portions throughout the season rather than all
at once. Or better yet, use a urea-based, time-release formulation (most
organic fertilizers can be classified as time-release products as compared
to synthetically manufactured fertilizers).

Another way to reduce aphid populations on sturdy plants is to knock
them off with a strong spray of water. Most dislodged aphids will not
be able to return to the plant, and their honeydew will be washed off
as well. Using water sprays early in the day allows plants to dry off
rapidly in the sun and be less susceptible to fungal diseases.

Chemical Control. Insecticidal soap, neem oil, and narrow-range oil
(e.g., supreme or superior parafinic-type oil) provide temporary control
if applied to thoroughly cover infested foliage. To get thorough coverage,
spray these materials with a high volume of water and target the underside
of leaves as well as the top. Soaps, neem oil, and narrow range oil
only kill aphids present on the day they are sprayed, so applications
may need to be repeated.

Many other insecticides are available to control aphids in the home
garden and landscape, including foliar-applied formulations of malathion,
permethrin and acephate (nonfood crops only). While these materials
may kill higher numbers of aphids than soaps and oils, their use should
be limited because they also kill the natural enemies that provide long-term
control of aphids and other pests. Repeated applications of these materials
may also result in the development of resistance to the material by
the aphid.

Tomato hornworm with Braconid Cocoons

The larval stage of this insect is a 3 1/2 to 4 inch long pale green
caterpillar with 5 pairs of prolegs and a "horn" on the last
segment. The two most common hornworms are the tobacco hornworm (7 diagonal
white stripes and, most commonly, a red horn) and the tomato hornworm
("V" shaped markings with a horn that is often black). The
adult of the tobacco Hornworm is the Sphinx moth. The Five-spotted Hawk
Moth is the adult of the tomato hornworm. Both moths are stout-bodied,
grayish-colored insects with a wing spread of 4 to 5 inches.

The larva is the damaging stage and feeds on the leaves and stems of
the tomato plant leaving behind dark green or black droppings. Though
initially quite small with a body about the same size as its horn, these
insects pass through 4 or 5 larval stages to reach full size in about
a month. The coloration of this larva causes it to blend in with its
surroundings and is often difficult to see despite its large size. It
eventually will burrow into the soil to pupate. There are two generations
a year.

This insect is parasitized by a number of insects. One of the most common
is a small braconid wasp. Larva that hatch from wasp eggs laid on the
hornworm feed on the inside of the hornworm until the wasp is ready to
pupate. The cocoons appear as white projections protruding from the hornworms
body. If such projections are seen, leave the infected hornworms in the
garden. The wasps will kill the hornworms when they emerge from the cocoons

and will seek out other hornworms to parasitize.

Handpicking is an effective control in small gardens. Bt (Bacillus
thuringiensis) and other insecticides may also be used to control hornworms.

Snails and slugs

- move by gliding along on a muscular "foot." This muscle
constantly secretes mucus, which later dries to form the silvery "slime
trail" that signals the presence of either pest. Slugs and snails
are hermaphrodites, so all have the potential to lay eggs. Adult brown
garden snails lay about 80 spherical, pearly white eggs at a time into
a hole in the topsoil. They may lay eggs up to six times a year. It
takes about 2 years for snails to mature. Slugs reach maturity after
about 3 to 6 months, depending on species, and lay clear oval to round
eggs in batches of 3 to 40 under leaves, in soil cracks, and in other
protected areas.

Snails and slugs are most active at night and on cloudy or foggy days.
On sunny days they seek hiding places out of the heat and bright light;
often the only clues to their presence are their silvery trails and
plant damage. In mild-winter areas such as southern coastal locations,
young snails and slugs can be active throughout the year.

During cold weather, snails and slugs hibernate in the topsoil. During
hot, dry periods or when it is cold, snails seal themselves off with
a parchmentlike membrane and often attach themselves to tree trunks,
fences, or walls.

Snails and slugs feed on a variety of living plants as well as on decaying
plant matter. On plants they chew irregular holes with smooth edges
in leaves and flowers and can clip succulent plant parts. They can also
chew fruit and young plant bark. Because they prefer succulent foliage
or flowers, they are primarily pests of seedlings and herbaceous plants,
but they are also serious pests of ripening fruits, such as strawberries,
artichokes, and tomatoes, that are close to the ground.

A good snail and slug management program relies on a combination of
methods. The first step is to eliminate, to the extent possible, all places
where snails or slugs can hide during the day. Boards, stones, debris,
weedy areas around tree trunks, leafy branches growing close to the ground,
and dense ground covers such as ivy are ideal sheltering spots. There
will be shelters that are not possible to eliminate—e.g., low ledges on
fences, the undersides of wooden decks, and water meter boxes. Make a
regular practice of trapping and removing snails and slugs in these areas.
Also, locate vegetable gardens or susceptible plants as far away as possible
from these areas. Reducing hiding places allows fewer snails and slugs
to survive. The survivors congregate in the remaining shelters, where
they can more easily be located and removed. Switching from sprinkler
irrigation to drip irrigation will reduce humidity and moist surfaces,
making the habitat less favorable for these pests. Choose snail-proof
plants for areas where snails and slugs are dense. Copper barriers can
be useful for protecting especially susceptible plants. Though baits can
be part of a management program for snails and slugs, by themselves they
don’t provide adequate control in gardens that contain plenty of shelter,
food, and moisture.

Handpicking can be very effective if done thoroughly on a regular basis.
Snails and slugs can be trapped under boards or flower pots positioned
throughout the garden and landscape. Several types of barriers will
keep snails and slugs out of planting beds. The easiest to maintain
are those made with copper flashing and screen. Copper barriers are
effective because it is thought that the copper reacts with the slime
that the snail or slug secretes, causing a flow of electricity. Vertical
copper screens can be erected around planting beds. The screen should
be 6 inches tall and buried several inches below the soil to prevent
slugs from crawling through the soil beneath the barrier. Snails and
slugs have many natural enemies, including ground beetles, pathogens,
snakes, toads, turtles, and birds, but most are rarely effective enough
to provide satisfactory control in the garden.

Snail and slug baits can be effective when used properly in conjunction
with a cultural program incorporating the other methods discussed above.
However, baits alone will not effectively control snails or slugs. Several
types of snail and slug bait products are available. Baits containing
the active ingredient metaldehyde are most common. Metaldehyde baits
are particularly poisonous to dogs and cats, and the pelleted form is
especially attractive to dogs. Metaldehyde snail baits should not be
used where children and pets cannot be kept away from them. Some metaldehyde
products are formulated with carbaryl, partly to increase the spectrum
of pests controlled to include soil and debris-dwelling insects, spiders,
and sowbugs. However, carbaryl is toxic to soil-inhabiting beneficials
like ground beetles and earthworms and should be avoided if snail and
slug management is all that is required. Metaldehyde baits containing
4% metaldehyde are significantly more effective than those products
containing only 2% metaldehyde; however, they are also more toxic to
dogs and wildlife. Most currently available 4% products are formulated
for use in enclosed bait stations to minimize their hazard.

Avoid getting metaldehyde bait on plants, especially vegetables. Baits
containing only metaldehyde are most reliable when temperatures are
warm or following a rain when snails and slugs are active. Metaldehyde
does not kill snails and slugs directly unless they eat a substantial
amount; rather, it stimulates their mucous-producing cells to overproduce
mucous in an attempt to detoxify the bait. The cells eventually fail
and the snail dies. When it is sunny or hot, they die from desiccation.
If baiting is followed by cool and wet weather, they may recover if
they ingest a sublethal dose. Do not water heavily for at least 3 or
4 days after bait placement; watering will reduce effectiveness and
snails may recover from metaldehyde poisoning if high moisture conditions
occur. Most metaldehyde baits break down rapidly when exposed to sunlight;
however, some paste or bullet formulations (such as Deadline) hold up
somewhat longer under conditions of sunlight and moisture.

A recently registered snail and slug bait, iron phosphate (available
under many trade names including Sluggo and Escar-Go), has the advantage
of being safe for use around domestic animals, children, birds, fish,
and other wildlife and is a good choice for a garden IPM program. Ingestion
of the iron phosphate bait, even in small amounts, will cause snails
and slugs to cease feeding, although it may take several days for the
snails to die. Iron phosphate bait can be scattered on lawns or on the
soil around any vegetables, ornamentals, or fruit trees to be protected.
Iron phosphate baits may be more effective against snails than slugs.

Spider Mite

Mites are common pests in landscapes and gardens and can be found feeding
on many fruit trees, vines, berries, vegetables, and ornamental plants.
Although related to insects, mites are not insects but members of the
arachnid class along with spiders and ticks. The spider mites, also
called webspinning mites, are the most common mite pests and among the
most ubiquitous of all pests in the garden and farm.

To the naked eye, spider mites look like tiny moving dots; however,
you can see them easily with a 10X hand lens. Adult females, the largest
forms, are less than 1/20 inch long. Spider mites live in colonies ,
mostly on the under-surfaces of leaves; a single colony may contain
hundreds of individuals. The names "spider mite" and "webspinning
mite" come from the silk webbing most species produce on infested
leaves. The presence of webbing is an easy way to distinguish them from
all other types of mites.

Adults have eight legs and an oval body, with two red eyespots near
the head end of the body. Females usually have a large, dark blotch
on each side of the body and numerous bristles covering the legs and
body. Immatures resemble adults, except the newly hatched larvae have
only six legs. Eggs are spherical and translucent, like tiny droplets,
becoming cream colored before hatching.

Mites cause damage by sucking cell contents from leaves. A small number
of mites is not usually reason for concern, but very high populations—levels
high enough to show visible damage to leaves—can be damaging to plants,
especially herbaceous ones. At first, the damage shows up as a stippling
of light dots on the leaves; sometimes the leaves take on a bronze color.
As feeding continues, the leaves turn yellow and drop off. Often leaves,
twigs, and fruit are covered with large amounts of webbing. Damage is
usually worse when compounded by water stress.

Spider mites have many natural enemies that often limit populations.
Adequate irrigation is important because water-stressed plants are most
likely to be damaged. Broad-spectrum insecticide treatments for other
pests frequently cause mite outbreaks, so avoid these when possible.
Sprays of water, insecticidal oils, or soaps can be used for management.
Always monitor before treatment.

Spider mites frequently become a problem after the application of insecticides.
Such outbreaks are commonly a result of the insecticide killing off
the natural enemies of the mites, but also occur when certain insecticides
stimulate mite reproduction. For example, spider mites exposed to carbaryl
(Sevin) in the laboratory have been shown to reproduce faster than untreated
populations. Carbaryl, some organophosphates, and some pyrethroids apparently
also favor spider mites by increasing the level of nitrogen in leaves.
Insecticides applied during hot weather usually appear to have the greatest
effect on mites, causing dramatic outbreaks within a few days.

If a treatment for mites is necessary, use selective materials, preferably
insecticidal soap or insecticidal oil. Petroleum-based horticultural
oils or neem oils are both acceptable. Do not use soaps or oils on water-stressed
plants or when temperatures exceed 90°F. These materials may be phytotoxic
to some plants, so check labels and/or test them out on a portion of
the foliage several days before applying a full treatment. Oils and
soaps must contact mites to kill them so excellent coverage, especially
on the undersides of leaves, is essential and repeat applications may
be required. Sulfur dust or spray can be used on some vegetables, but
will burn cucurbits. Do not use sulfur dust if temperatures exceed 90°F
and do not apply sulfur within 30 days of an oil spray. Sulfur dusts
are skin irritants and eye and respiratory hazards. Always wear appropriate
protective clothing.

Mealybug

Mealybugs are part of the insect families collectively known as scale
insects. They are soft-bodied, without the outer shell associated with
insects in the other scale insect families. Instead, mealybugs are usually
covered with a white waxy powder

Mealybugs have sucking mouthparts. Feeding weakens and stunts plants,
causes leaf distortion, yellowing, and even total leaf loss. In some
cases, plants can be killed. Mealybugs also produce large amounts of
honeydew (similar to that produced by whiteflies and aphids), which
can coat plants and surrounding surfaces with a sticky layer. A black
fungus commonly known as "sooty mold" grows on the honeydew.
The presence of honeydew and sooty fungus is one way to detect infestations
of these insects.

Life Cycle. The citrus mealybug female can produce about 600 eggs,
which are produced in cottony structures called ovisacs. Eggs may be
produced with or without males. The eggs hatch in less than 10 days
into small nymphs called crawlers. The crawlers move about the plants
and locate feeding sites. Once the insects settle, there is not much
movement. Under favorable conditions, there may be six generations per
year. In reality, generations overlap, so all developmental stages will
be present.

Many chemical insecticides list mealybugs.

Non-chemical Control:

- Rubbing Alcohol Spray: Mix 1 to 2 cups alcohol per quart of water.
Using undiluted alcohol as a spray is very risky for plants. Since alcohol
can damage plants always test your spray mix on a few leaves of plants
first. If the spray kills the pests and no leaf damage shows within
the next 2 or 3 days, go ahead and spray further, using exactly the
same ingredients and proportions you tested. If an infestation is well-established,
it will be necessary to make a series of applications, at 10 to 14 day
intervals, for mealybug control.

- Insecticidal soap spray according to the dilution on the label but
substitute alcohol for half of the water required.

- Horticultural Oil and Insecticidal Soap Sprays: Are effective non-chemical
controls for mealy bugs and other soft-bodied pests. Oil sprays suffocate
the insects and can aid in controlling scale crawlers and eggs, while
soap sprays cause the insects cell membranes to rupture effectively
causing it to dessicate.

Fungus

Photo

Leaf Curl

Caused by the fungus Taphrina deformans. One of the most common disease
problems for backyard gardeners. The distorted, reddened foliage that
it causes is easily seen in spring. When severe, the disease can reduce
fruit production substantially.

To prevent peach leaf curl, treat the trees every year after leaves
have fallen (late November). Copper-based fungicides, tribasic copper
sulfate, calcium polysulfides, metallic copper, or synthetic fungicides
can be used. However, to be effective, copper-containing compounds must
have at least 50% copper; those containing less do not adequately control
leaf curl despite advertising claims. If timed properly, a single fall/winter
spray will normally prevent losses.

In areas of high spring rainfall or when spring rainfall is abundant,
it may be advisable to apply a second copper spray or a lime sulfur
treatment in spring, preferably before buds begin to swell, but definitely
before budbreak (when green color is first visible). Fungicides containing
chlorothalonil also work well at this time.

white magnolia scale

Scales

Can be serious pests on all types of woody plants and shrubs. Scales
are so unusual looking that many people do not at first recognize them
as insects. Adult female scales and many immature forms do not move,
are hidden under a disklike or waxy covering, and lack a separate head
or other recognizable body parts. Scales have long piercing mouthparts
with which they suck juices out of plants. They may occur on twigs,
leaves, branches, or fruit. Severe infestations can cause overall decline
and even death of plants. Most scales have many natural enemies that
often effectively control them.

Woody plants heavily infested with armored scales often look water
stressed. Leaves may turn yellow and drop, twigs and limbs on trees
may die, and bark may crack and produce gum. Many armored scales attack
leaves or fruit as well, leaving blemishes and halos on fruit; the fruit
damage is often just aesthetic. Some armored scales can kill plants.

Scales are often well controlled by natural enemies, especially when
predator and parasite activities are not disrupted by ants or applications
of broad-spectrum insecticides such as carbaryl, malathion, or pyrethroids
applied to control other pests. If scale populations, especially armored
scale species, become abundant, you should take action. In the case
of soft scales, controlling ants may be sufficient to bring about gradual
control of scales as natural enemies become more abundant. If not, well-timed
sprays of oil applied either during the dormant season or when crawlers
are active in spring (or, in the case of black scale, in summer) should
provide good control.

Dormant-season applications of specially refined oils, often called
narrow-range, supreme, or superior type oils, are effective against
most scale pests of deciduous trees and landscape plants, especially
San Jose scale, walnut scale, and the lecanium scales, but not against
oystershell or olive scales because susceptible stages of these pests
are not present during winter. Avoid oils called dormant oil or dormant
oil emulsions, which are more likely to injure plants. Treatments can
be made any time during dormancy or, for sycamore scale and oak pit
scales, during the delayed dormant period, which is the time after the
buds swell but before they open. Be sure that the plants are not water
stressed to avoid injury. A good time to apply oils is right after a
period of rain or foggy weather.

An application of oil or soap alone is usually adequate. One study
(of sycamore scale) found that organophosphates (e.g., malathion) combined
with oil were no more effective than a properly timed, thorough application
of oil or soap alone.

Avoid using the organophosphates chlorpyrifos (Dursban) and diazinon
in landscapes and gardens because of problems from their runoff in urban
surface water and contamination of municipal wastewater.

Nematodes

Microscopic, eel-like roundworms. The most troublesome species in the
garden are those that live and feed within plant roots most of their
lives and those that live freely in the soil and feed on plant roots.

Root knot nematodes usually cause distinctive swellings, called galls,
on the roots of affected plants. Infestations of these nematodes are
fairly easy to recognize by digging up a few plants with symptoms, washing
or gently tapping the soil from the roots, and examining the roots for
galls. The nematodes feed and develop within the galls, which may grow
to as large as 1-inch in diameter on some plants but are usually much
smaller. The water- and nutrient-conducting abilities of the roots are
damaged by the formation of the galls. Galls may crack or split open,
especially on the roots of vegetable plants, allowing the entry of soilborne,
disease-causing microorganisms.

Management of nematodes is difficult. The most reliable practices are
preventive, including sanitation and choice of plant varieties. Existing
infestations can be reduced through fallowing, crop rotation, or soil
solarization. However, these methods reduce nematodes primarily in the
top foot or so of the soil, so are effective only for about a year.
They are suitable primarily for annual plants or to help young woody
plants establish. Once an area or crop is infested, try to minimize
damage by adjusting planting and harvesting dates and irrigation or
by the use of soil amendments.

Nematodes are usually introduced into new areas with infested soil
or plants. Prevent nematodes from entering your garden by using only
nematode-free plants purchased from reliable nurseries. To prevent the
spread of nematodes, avoid moving plants and soil from infested parts
of the garden. Do not allow irrigation water from around infested plants
to run off, as this spreads nematodes. Nematodes may be present in soil
attached to tools and equipment used elsewhere, so clean tools thoroughly
before using them in your garden.

Whiteflies

Whiteflies are tiny, sap-sucking insects that are frequently abundant
in vegetable and ornamental plantings. They excrete sticky honeydew
and cause yellowing or death of leaves.

Whiteflies usually occur in groups on the undersides of leaves. They
derive their name from the mealy, white wax covering the adult’s wings
and body. Adults are tiny insects with yellowish bodies and whitish
wings.

Whiteflies suck phloem sap. Large populations can cause leaves to turn
yellow, appear dry, or fall off plants. Like aphids, whiteflies excrete
honeydew, so leaves may be sticky or covered with black sooty mold.
The honeydew attracts ants, which interfere with the activities of natural
enemies that may control whiteflies and other pests.

Management of heavy whitefly infestations is very difficult. Whiteflies
are not well controlled with any available insecticides. The best strategy
is to prevent problems from developing in your garden to the extent possible.
In many situations, natural enemies will provide adequate control of whiteflies;
outbreaks may occur if natural enemies that provide biological control
of whiteflies are disrupted by insecticide applications, dusty conditions,
or interference by ants. Avoid or remove plants that repeatedly host high
populations of whiteflies. In gardens, whitefly populations in the early
stages of population development can be held down by a vigilant program
of removing infested leaves, vacuuming adults, or hosing down (syringing)
with water sprays. Aluminum foil or reflective mulches can repel whiteflies
from vegetable gardens and sticky traps can be used to monitor or, at
high levels, reduce whitefly numbers. If you choose to use insecticides,
insecticidal soaps or oils such as neem oil may reduce but not eliminate
populations.

Hand-removal of leaves heavily infested with the nonmobile nymphal
and pupal stages may reduce populations to levels that natural enemies
can contain. Water sprays (syringing) may also be useful in dislodging
adults.

A small, hand-held, battery-operated vacuum cleaner has also been recommended
for vacuuming adults off leaves. Vacuum in the early morning or other
times when it is cool and whiteflies are sluggish. Kill vacuumed insects
by placing the vacuum bag in a plastic bag and freezing it overnight.
Contents may be disposed of the next day.

Insecticides have only a limited effect on whiteflies. Most kill only
those whiteflies that come in direct contact with them. For particularly
troublesome situations, try insecticidal soap or an insecticidal oil
such as neem oil or narrow-range oil. Because these products only kill
whitefly nymphs that are directly sprayed, plants must be thoroughly
covered with the spray solution. Be sure to cover undersides of all
infested leaves; usually these are the lowest leaves and the most difficult
to reach. Use soaps when plants are not drought-stressed and when temperatures
are under 80°F to prevent possible damage to plants. Avoid using other
pesticides to control whiteflies; not only do most of them kill natural
enemies, whiteflies quickly build up resistance to them, and most are
not very effective in garden situations.

Thrips

Thrips are tiny, slender insects with fringed wings. They feed by puncturing
their host plant or animal prey and sucking up exuding contents. Certain
thrips species are beneficial predators that feed only on other insects
and mites. Beneficial species include black hunter thrips and the sixspotted
thrips. Pest species are plant feeders that scar leaf, flower, or fruit
surfaces or distort plant parts. Other species of thrips simply feed
on fungal spores and pollen.

Feeding by thrips causes tiny scars on leaves and fruit, called stippling,
and can stunt growth. Damaged leaves may become papery and distorted.
Infested terminals may discolor, become rolled , and drop leaves prematurely.
Petals may exhibit "color break," which is pale or dark discoloring
of petal tissue that was killed by thrips feeding before buds opened.

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info on trips

Healthy woody plants usually tolerate thrips damage; however, high
infestations on certain herbaceous ornamentals and developing fruits
or vegetables may justify control. If control is necessary, use an integrated
program of control strategies that combines the use of good cultural
practices and conservation of natural enemies with the use of least
toxic insecticides, such as narrow range oils. Greenhouse thrips biology
differs some from that of most other pest thrips.

Although thrips damage to leaves is unsightly, thrips activity does
not usually warrant the use of insecticide sprays. For instance, while
thrips damage on citrus or avocado fruit may look unpleasant, it does
not harm trees or affect the internal fruit quality. Also, by the time
damage is noticed on ripening fruit, the thrips that caused the injury
are usually gone. While viruses vectored by thrips may cause plant loss,
insecticide sprays are not recommended to prevent viruses because thrips
are not killed fast enough to prevent the transfer of the virus to new
plants. Furthermore, most thrips are difficult to control effectively
with insecticides because they are protected within plant parts that
surround them as they feed. If insecticides are used, they will only
be partially effective and must be combined with appropriate cultural
practices and conservation of natural enemies.

Narrow-range oil, neem oil, and other low-toxicity insecticides such
as insecticidal soaps or pyrethrins can be somewhat effective for temporary
reduction of thrips populations if applied when thrips and damage first
appear. These materials have the benefit of allowing at least a portion
of the natural enemy populations to survive because they don't leave
toxic residues. Sprays must be applied to thoroughly cover susceptible
plant tissue, such as new leaf growth and buds. On plants with a history
of severe, unacceptable damage, begin treatment early when thrips or
their damage is first observed. Repeat applications (usually 5 to 10
days apart, depending on temperature) are usually required because these
insecticides only kill newly hatched thrips and recently emerged adults.
With most thrips species, eggs are protected within plant tissue and
prepupae and pupae are in the soil and will not be killed. No pesticide
treatment will restore the appearance of injured tissue; plants will
remain damaged until leaves drop or injury is pruned off.

For ornamental nonfood plants, several applications of a systemic insecticide
such as the organophosphate acephate (Orthene) can provide temporary
control of thrips, but this product can be highly toxic to natural enemies.
Another systemic insecticide, imidacloprid (Bayer Advanced Garden, Marathon,
and Merit), is also available.

Leaf Miner

Any insect which lays its eggs in the spongy layer between the upper
and lower surfaces of leaves is known as a leaf miner. Larvae develop
between the leaf surfaces and tunnel or 'mine' out the spongy middle
layer as they grow, giving leaves a spotty and brownish appearance.
The four stages of its development are: egg, larva (leaf miner), pupa,
and adult (a small fly).

Although the mines may be considered to be unsightly, this pest can
be tolerated as it has little real impact on the health and vigour of
a holly. Leaves with mines may turn yellow and drop in early summer but
this is the natural shedding of older leaves and not due to the pest.

Pinch the leaves of small trees to kill the leaf miner.

Insecticides are unlikely to be effective as the thick glossy surface
of holly leaves means that sprays run off the foliage and do not penetrate
to where the grubs are feeding. On small specimen plants it is feasible
to remove mined leaves but not if this would result in significant defoliation.

When the leaves are fully formed in late April or early May, this is
your first opportunity to use insecticides. Managing leaf miners at
this time can significantly reduce the chance of a problem later in
the season. In June, if populations are severe, time your insecticide
application to coincide with the second period of adult flight. Once
you’ve noticed that the larvae have left the leaf, start to look for
adults emerging two to three weeks later. Apply insecticides when most
of the adults have emerged. Using insecticides to manage late season
generations is generally not worth it. If late season problems are severe,
consider an insecticide application next spring.

More information:Pests in Landscape

Garden Indoors Excerpt

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Fri, 13 Feb 2009 18:59:00 +0000

Too often foliage is passed over by our attraction to blooms. This is certainly the case in the garden and I see the same myopic view inside the home. By embracing foliage you do not in any way sacrifice beauty or color: both are present in a range of forms. The advantage good foliage has over blooms I that it is long lasting. Rather than cycling in and out of flower, the color, pattern, and texture remain a constant.

Another compelling reason to fill your bedroom with foliage houseplants is that they help remove toxins from the air pollutants that are found in houses from industrial chemicals used to manufacture building materials and numerous household cleaners that may contain formaldehyde, benzene, ammonia, acetone, and ethyl acetate. These pollutants are actually absorbed through the leaves of the plants and converted to harmless substances. Experts estimate that fifteen houseplants make a significant impact on improving the air quality in a house. So along with foliage houseplants adding color and texture to your bedroom, they also help clean the air.
P. Allen Smith's Bringing the Garden Indoors
This article is an excerpt from the latest book in the Garden Home Series, P. Allen Smith's Bringing the Garden Indoors.
Air Purifying Houseplants

* Bamboo Palm (Chamaedorea sefritzii) - bright filtered or indirect light, water sparingly in winter, neutral to acidic soil, minimum temperature of 61 degrees F.
* Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema modestum)- filtered light, high humidity, water moderately and allow some drying in winter, minimum temperature 45 degrees F.
* Corn Plant (Dracaena fragrans) - full light with shade from hot sun, moderate humidity, water sparingly in winter, minimum temperature 55 degrees F.
* Dragon Tree (Dracaena draco) - full light with shade from hot sun, water sparingly in winter, moderate humidity, minimum temperature 55 degrees F.
* Elephant Ear (Philodendron domesticum)- bright filtered light, mist daily in summer, water sparingly in winter, support stems with moss pole, minimum temperature 59 degrees F.
* English Ivy (Hedera helix) - bright indirect to low light, keep moist, grow as a topiary or in a hanging basket, hardy zones 5 ,6, 7, 8, 9, and 10.
* Gerbera Daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) - requires bright light, excellent drainage, plant crown 1/2 inch above surface of soil, keep the old leaves picked off, minimum temperature 60 degrees F.
* Golden Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) - full or bright filtered light, light water in winter, minimum temperature 45 degrees F.
* Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum 'Mauna Loa')- indirect to bright light, high humidity, minimum temperature 59 degrees F.
* Red Edge Dracaena (Dracaena marginata 'Tricolor')- full light with shade from hot sun, keep moist in summer, water sparingly in winter, minimum temperature 55 degrees F.
* Ribbon Plant (Dracaena sanderiana)- full light with shade from hot sun, moderate humidity, water sparingly in winter, minimum temperature 55 degrees F.

Garden Festival

noreply@blogger.com (My feed RSS) — Fri, 13 Feb 2009 16:17:00 +0000

Garden Festival
Garden festival from Singapore (SGF) run in 2006 and 2008. Singapore Garden Festival (SGF) is a feast of flora that showcase the beauty and cultural events that attract and entertain all our senses. Positioned to become one of the flower and garden exhibition in the best international calendar, SGF is a unique place to showcase creations-creations of the pre-eminent designer, florist and garden hortikulturist and stars best natural world, which will be specially invited to this Festival.
Located in the Suntec Singapore International Convention and Exhibition Center (SICEC) Level 4 and 6. The best gardener here is the picture.