Planting Pinellas

No love for lovebugs?

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Tue, 14 May 2013 17:57:00 +0000

Theresa Badurek, Urban Horticulture Extension Agent

May and September are prime times for lovebug mating - have they been bugging you? Perhaps you’ve heard the urban legend that they were created by researchers at the University of Florida- not true.

Click here for a great article debunking this myth.

During lovebug mating season there are many adult lovebugs present in some locations. They are attracted to heat and may confuse car exhaust for the smell of decomposing plants that they are attracted to, which is why they are often found in such great numbers near roadways (and car hoods). They are harmless to humans, but be prepared to wash the front of your car a little more often!

Click here to read more about them on our website on lovebugs.

Florida Summer Gardening 101

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Mon, 06 May 2013 21:34:00 +0000

It’s May and the weather is still pleasant… for now. Soon we will be battling hot summer sun, bugs, humidity, and torrential rains every afternoon. These conditions present several challenges for the home gardener, but there are things you can do now to prepare your garden (and yourself) for the heat.

Smart garden planning will give you more time to play here! Photo courtesy Pinellas County.

If you use annuals in your landscape you probably know by now that many of them don’t tolerate the Florida heat very well. Just because a plant is being sold in local garden centers does not necessarily mean it’s the right time to plant them here in Florida. However, there are several annual plants that take our temps in stride. They include salvia, torenia, wax begonia, coleus, and ornamental peppers. When shopping for annuals choose compact plants with healthy leaves, good color, and lots of flower buds (they don’t have to be in bloom at the time of purchase). Click here for more information about gardening with annuals in Florida.

Coleus, photo courtesy UF/IFAS Okeechobee County

Since annuals are seasonal they should make up focal areas in the garden, but not too much space, as they require a lot of energy and resources for such a short life-span. Right now is also a great time to plan new perennial plantings, including trees, palms, shrubs, and groundcovers. If you have a plan at the ready you can be prepared to install once the rainy season starts- then you won’t need to water as often yourself. Just remember that if you plant something before you go on vacation you should ask a friend or neighbor to care for it while you are gone.
Click here for more information on establishing new trees and shrubs.

But that’s not all you can do this time of the year. You can also plant some herbs that like the heat such as basil, Mexican tarragon, and rosemary. Since some herbs are annuals and some are perennials remember to group them accordingly so you won’t be disturbing the perennials when replanting the annuals. Many herbs are also suited to planting in containers- but you must remember that those plants in containers will dry out faster than those in the ground and will need more irrigation attention. Click here for more information about growing herbs in your Florida garden.

Southern peas, aka black-eye peas, courtesy UF/IFAS Extension

If you think your new herbs might get lonely out there, don’t hesitate to try your hand at vegetable gardening. But (and this is a biggie) you can’t plant the same veggies in the summer that you can up north. Our hot temps just won’t work with many of the usual veggies, but there are several crops you can grow here in the heat including okra, southern pea, and sweet potato. Click here for more information about vegetable gardening in Florida, including suggested crops and their planting dates.

Summer (June, July and August are great) is also a good time to solarize your vegetable garden, so you can add this to your summer gardening plan. What does that mean? Well, this one prep can help reduce soil pests and even kill weed seeds, making your garden more successful throughout the fall gardening season. Solarizing involves harnessing the heat of the sun by covering the soil with clear plastic and is most effective in the summer months. To solarize, you want to prepare your soil with any amendments such as compost or manures before you begin. Make sure your garden is clear of rocks, twigs, weeds, and other debris. Till the soil to at least 6 inches to make sure the heat will penetrate deeply enough to be effective. The day after a good rain or irrigation is best for applying the clear plastic sheeting over the soil. Lay sheets of clear plastic over the soil and bury the edges to keep it in place. Clear plastic is the only kind that will be effective- do not use black. Finally, leave plastic in place for at least 6 weeks. Click here for more info on solarizing your garden,visit “Introduction to Soil Solarization”.

Photo from UF/IFAS "Trees and Hurricanes" website

A discussion of summer garden preps wouldn’t be complete without a mention of hurricane season. Now is your last chance to prepare for hurricane season by checking trees for damaged or weak branches and prune if needed. Be sure to hire an ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) certified arborist to do this work- they are trained to care for trees and continually participate in ongoing education to maintain this certification. This can help lengthen the life of your trees and minimize the chance of property damage. To find a certified arborist near you, visit the ISA website tool to locate a tree professional by clicking here.

Last, but definitely not least, make sure to watch out for your own health in the heat. Slow down, dress for summer, do not get too much sun, drink water, do not drink alcoholic beverages, and spend more time in air-conditioned places. The University of Florida Extension has a great webpage for heat safety that everyone should read before it gets too hot, visit it by clicking here. Be safe and have a great summer!

Share Your Views

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Mon, 25 Feb 2013 21:33:00 +0000

Pinellas County citizens survey opens online and on the go

Got two minutes to help shape the future of Pinellas County?

Residents can take a brief online survey to share their vision about what is good and what needs improvement in Pinellas County. How do people’s priorities align with present realities? What do they want the county to be like in five years?

As the Pinellas County Board of County Commissioners continues to set a strategic direction for the community, feedback from the survey will help set priorities that align with the vision of the citizens they serve.

Citizens can take the survey from 9 a.m. Monday, Feb. 25, to 5 p.m. Friday, March 1.

The survey has gone mobile this year and is accessible at www.pinellascounty.org/mobile. The survey can also be found on the Pinellas County website at www.pinellascounty.org.

“The online survey is one of the tools we are using during the initial phase of prioritizing for the next year’s budget and as we continue to set long-range strategic direction this feedback will guide us toward a vision the community shares,” said Pinellas County Administrator Bob LaSala. “It is absolutely necessary to gather this feedback in order to learn the goals of the residents as individuals and then ultimately as a community.”

This is the third year that the county commission has collected input from residents with an online survey. It follows a statistically valid phone survey that was taken during the past month which targeted a cross-section of the county’s residents. The results of both surveys will be posted online once the information is compiled.

Another opportunity to offer feedback and interact with the county commissioners is coming up on Wednesday, April 10, from 5:30 to 8 p.m., when the Pinellas County 2014 Budget Community Forum is held at the Seminole campus of St. Petersburg College in the Digitorium. An open house and eTownHall will give officials and residents a chance to talk about budget issues and the future of the community.

For more information on Pinellas County services and programs, visit www.pinellascounty.org, now with LiveChat, or create a shortcut to www.pinellascounty.org/mobileon any mobile device. Pinellas County government is on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube. Pinellas County complies with the Americans with Disabilities Act.

Insect, Plant & Disease ID

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Fri, 07 Dec 2012 14:17:00 +0000

Lara Miller

Natural Resource Agent

Identification Resources:

Insects, Plants, & Diseases

Many Florida residents find unknown plants growing in their yard, unknown bugs in their houses or gardens, and apparent diseases on what were previously healthy plants. So what resources are out there to help you turn the unknown into known?

Extension Offices

Your local Extension office should be your first point of contact for helping you identify any mysterious problems or species in your home or yard. You can call, e-mail, or visit the office in person.

Lawn and Garden Help

We offer walk-in Lawn and Garden Help Desk services at the following locations:

· Pinellas County Extension Office
12520 Ulmerton Rd., Largo, FL 33774
Walk-In Hours: Mon-Fri 8am-5pm (excluding holidays)

· Pinellas County Master Gardener Plant Clinic
Palm Harbor Library
2330 Nebraska Ave., Palm Harbor, FL 34683
Wednesdays from 10am-2pm, January through mid-November

Lawn and Garden Help Line

Lawn & Garden assistance is also available by phone at (727)582-2100 and then Press 1.
Hours of Operation: Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday
9am-12pm and 1pm-4pm

When you do, have or send the following:

· Photographs (digital or snapshot) or a physical sample if you are making an in-person visit.

· As detailed a description of the organism or disease symptom as possible (e.g., where and when you saw it, behavior, any others present, how long it has been occurring, the type of damage).

Even if your county Extension office cannot make the identification or disease diagnosis, the agents will be able to help you with forms and samples to send to UF/IFAS's diagnostic laboratories.

Insects

There are thousands of insects in Florida, and knowing whether the one you found is harmless, beneficial, or damaging is key for deciding on control measures. The Insect ID Lab can analyze insect samples sent by Florida residents. The Help Desk can provide answers or information on preparing a sample to send to the Insect ID Lab. The lab will charge $8 per sample sent.

Send samples in a crush-proof container with the accompanying submission form (205KB pdf). Sending samples in flat or padded envelopes is discouraged.

Collecting a Sample

1) The more specimens included in a sample, the better.

2) In most cases, you should kill and preserve the insects before sending them.

a. Do this by placing them in the freezer or in a vial with rubbing alcohol.

i. Caterpillars will not preserve well in an alcohol solution. Moths and butterflies should be kept dry.

b. Take special care if you believe the insect could be a new or exotic species.

Contact your Extension office or read the submission guide for more details.

Plants

You can either bring in a physical specimen of the plant (or blossom, leaf, etc.) or a photograph to the Help Desk. Multiple photographs are best, with pictures of leaves, bark or stem, blossoms, seed pods, as well as the whole plant itself.

In addition to the pictures or sample, pass along as much additional information as possible:

· Size and shape of plant, leaves, blossoms, seeds.

· Growth habit and location.

· Conditions in location (e.g., sun, soil type and moisture, cultivated or forested area).

· Colors of plant and blossoms.

If the Extension agent or Master Gardener cannot make an identification, they will send a sample to the UF Herbarium. All identification samples sent to the herbarium must first go through your county Extension agent, but the herbarium does offer an online database where Florida residents can look at images of plants in the collection.

Diseases

UF/IFAS Extension offers multiple plant diagnostic clinics and labs, which make up the Florida Plant Diagnostic Network. These diagnostic clinics use living-plant samples to make disease diagnoses.

An important note: once a plant is dead, our Extension professionals are unable to make a disease diagnosis. Harmful fungi and bacteria are present in all Florida soils, and many secondary bacteria and fungi will start to grow on a dead plant. These two factors make it impossible to determine what, if any, disease killed a plant.

Contact your county's Extension office for help and information on preparing a plant or turf sample to send to a diagnostic lab. The lab will charge $40 per sample sent. (Certain disease tests are no charge.)

Send properly packaged samples with the accompanying submission form (149KB pdf).

Sometimes what you believe may be a disease is only a nutrient deficiency. Your local Extension agent can advise you if it would be worth testing your soil before doing a disease analysis. (Find more information from the Extension Soil Testing Laboratory.)

Collecting a Sample

General guidelines include:

· Take samples before applying pesticides.

· Make sure samples are living (green).

· Include a large amount of plant material that covers the range of the symptoms.

· Do not mix different samples in the same submission bag.

Contact your Extension office and read the submission guide for more details.

Other Identifications

UF/IFAS Extension offices are your source for answers to your questions and solutions for your life. Wildlife was not covered in this guide, but any identification questions or problems you have can be answered by our offices if you give them enough information.

An e-mail, telephone call, or visit to your local Extension office is your first step in identifying any plants, pests, animals, problems, or curiosities you encounter.

Adapted and excerpted from:

L. Buss, Insect Identification Service (RFSR010), Entomology and Nematology Department (rev. 3/2010).

N. Williams, Plant Identification and Information Service (RFSR013), Extension Administration Office (rev. 12/2011).

A. Palmateer, et al, Sample Submission Guide for Plant Diagnostic Clinics of the Florida Plant Diagnostic Network (RFSR007), Plant Pathology Department (rev. 9/2012).

Happy Holly-days!

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Fri, 30 Nov 2012 15:00:00 +0000

by Theresa Badurek, Urban Horticulture Extension Agent, UF/IFAS Pinellas County Extension

Dahoon Holly, Ilex cassine

We all know that there are many beautiful holiday plants to enjoy this time of year. This year I would like to focus on a group of plants that not only bring us pleasure, but also provide something for our wildlife- hollies. There are several native hollies that we can grow here that provide food and habitat for our wildlife while also providing decoration both outside and in. Holly fruits are a favorite winter food for many birds and mammals, providing seasonal nutrition for our feathered and furry friends. In addition to providing a food source, holly shrubs and trees also provide habitat for many birds.

While the most important benefit of these plants is enjoying them outdoors in their natural state, they can also be used as cut greens in holiday decorations (the evergreen varieties). Keep in mind that hollies are dioecious plants: the male and female flowers are on separate plants and female plants produce berries. If you are looking for berries for holiday décor you will want to make sure you have some female plants. Also, many of the dwarf varieties do not produce berries.

If you don’t already have hollies in your landscape you may consider planting them now for next year. Hollies prefer part shade but most will tolerate full sun, they prefer acidic soils, and they all require a well-drained soil. Here are a few suggested native hollies:

American Holly, Ilex opaca. This is the holly most traditionally associated with the holiday season. It has spiny leaves and red or yellow fruit. Click here for more info.

Fruit of Ilex opaca

Foliage of Ilex opaca

Dahoon Holly, Ilex cassine. This holly makes a great specimen or street tree. It even has another seasonally appropriate common name- Christmas Berry. Click here for more info.

Fruit and foliage of Ilex cassine

Ilex cassine

Yaupon Holly, Ilex vomitoria. Depending on the variety you choose this can be a small shrub or a small tree. Click here for more info.

Fruit and foliage of Ilex vomitoria

Ilex vomitoria ’Dodds Cranberry’

These hollies, and others, would make great additions to the landscape-and great gifts for those on your holiday shopping list too. You will enjoy them and the wildlife will thank you. Happy holly-days everyone!

Cinnamon Fern

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Wed, 31 Oct 2012 14:00:00 +0000

Cinnamon Fern

by: Lara Miller, Natural Resource Agent

Jonathan Houser, Brooker Creek Preserve Intern

While the name refers to a spice many have come to love during this time of year, Cinnamon Ferns don’t actually produce cinnamon. They get their name from their cinnamon-colored fronds. Cinnamon ferns are fairly large and capable of growing six feet high by one foot wide. They can be found in large clusters of damp woods, marshes, wet ditches, and stream banks. There are two types of fronds in cinnamon ferns: large green sterile fronds and smaller bright green fronds which turn a brown cinnamon-color as they become fertile. The cinnamon-colored fronds are fertile because they are covered with sporangia (a cell structure where spores (reproductive bodies) are produced) to propel new fern growth. In the spring, the fronds in the center of the plant become fertile as they develop their sporangia. These fertile fronds will die back in the late summer once they have lost their spores.

Cinnamon fern is a long lived perennial that does best in moist shaded areas with rich acidic soil, but can also survive full sun if there is an abundance of water. It was historically used by American Indians to treat headaches, muscles pain, chills, colds and snakebites. Frond tips were eaten both raw and cooked. The fiddleheads are edible, and said to taste like a blend of broccoli, asparagus and artichoke. The Florida Department of Agriculture lists cinnamon fern as a "Commercially Exploited Species". A permit is needed to remove it from the wild for commercial purposes. It is legally available from many native plant nurseries.

Sources: http://www.floridata.com/ref/o/osmu_cin.cfm
http://www.fcps.edu/islandcreekes/ecology/cinnamon_fern.htm

From Cypress Trees to Cypress Knees

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Mon, 29 Oct 2012 13:00:00 +0000

From Cypress Trees to Cypress Knees

by: Lara Miller, Natural Resource Agent

Jennifer Jones, Brooker Creek Preserve Intern

Cypress trees can be found across the southeast United States, and they are known to dominate the forested wetlands of Florida. There are two distinct types found within Florida: the bald cypress (Taxodium distichum var. distichum) and the pond cypress (Taxodium distichumvar. nutans). They share a few characteristics in common, such as roots that protrude above soil, which are sometimes called the ‘’knees,” and they both lose their leaves in the fall. Bald cypress trees are typically larger than the pond cypress; they can grow to heights of 150 feet and reach six feet in diameter. The leaves on each of the cypress trees differ as well: bald cypress leaves are generally flat, and pond cypress leaves grow scale-like, close to the branchlets (Figure 1). These trees can live for hundreds of years, and some known Cypress trees are over 500 years old. They are extremely flood tolerant, and this allows them to dominate swamps and other wetlands which are known to endure long periods of flooding.

Figure 1. Side-by-side comparison of bald cypress and pond cypress leaves.

Cypress swamps create homes for many rare and endangered species. Everything from large mammals to birds and insects make their homes in cypress trees and swamps. Cypress ponds are capable of holding more water than soil, absorbing runoff from storms and preventing floods. Cypress trees have also been known to improve water quality in their environments. The soil and plants that are typically found within cypress ponds can remove phosphorus and nitrogen from stormwater.

Cypress trees have been growing in Florida for about 6,500 years. They were once logged and almost completely removed because cypress wood is extremely durable and can be used for shingles, siding, fence posts, and other products. Currently, cypress trees are mainly used for saw timber and landscape mulch, although UF/IFAS Extension does not recommend purchasing cypress mulch for your landscape. Cypress trees exist in almost every area of Florida, from the Wakulla Springs in the panhandle all the way to the Everglades in South Florida. These trees are a very beneficial and beautiful species which serve important ecological functions, and are needed in swamps in order to maintain a balanced and healthy ecosystem.

Stay up to date on news and information affecting our environment by following your Pinellas County Natural Resource Extension Agent on Twitter.

Source: http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/hot_topics/environment/cypress.html

Sword Fern - Native or Not?

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Wed, 24 Oct 2012 13:00:00 +0000

Florida’s Native and Non-Native Sword Ferns

by: Lara Miller, Natural Resource Agent

Jennifer Jones, Brooker Creek Preserve Intern

Florida is home to many native fern species, including the Boston fern (Nephrolepis exalta) and giant sword fern (Nephrolepis biserrata), which can be difficult to distinguish from non-native ferns that grow in the same environments, such as Tuberous sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia) and the Asian sword fern (Nephrolepis multiflora). Each of these are often still sold in the nursery and landscape trade, and often confused or misidentified as the native species of fern.

The Natives

The native Boston fern (Figure 1) has erect fronds that can reach up to 3 feet long and 6 inches wide. The round sori (clusters of spore-bearing organs) are in two rows near the underside of the pinnae (leaflet). It is commonly found in humid forests and swamps of Florida, although is native to other regions such as South and Central America. It is grown outdoors as well as indoors for ornamental value; their high humidity tolerance makes them a good candidate for both indoor and outdoor use.

Figure 1. Native Boston Fern

The native giant sword fern (Figure 2) has fronds that extend several feet and can be found in moist to wet soil. The species name comes from tiny teeth that alternate with larger teeth along the edge of each lance-like pinna. Underneath each pinna, round sori occur evenly around the entire edge. The petioles (stalk) are sparse to moderate with reddish to light brown hair-like scales. Tubers are never present in this species.

Figure 2. Native Giant Sword Fern

The Non-Natives

Since the non-native ferns can be invasive and disruptive to native plant communities, it is very beneficial to be able to recognize the differences between them. The Asian sword fern and Tuberous sword fern are sold under various names, often ones of native origin.

Tuberous sword fern (Figure 3) sometimes produces tubers, and it is the only one of the four ferns mentioned that is capable of doing so. The presence of these tubers alone is a distinct way to identify the species. The presence of scales on the upper side of the rachis (stem) that is distinctively darker at the point of attachment is another way to distinguish the tuberous sword fern from the other three species. Native sword fern has scales on the upper side and are homogenously colored.

Figure 3. Non-Native Tuberous Sword Fern

Tuberous sword fern can be distinguished from Asian sword fern (Figure 4) by its glabrous central vein of the pinnae contrasted by the presence of short stiff hairs that occur on the central vein of the pinnae of Asian and giant sword fern. The most distinguishing characteristic for Asian sword fern is a dense covering of dark brown, pressed scales with pale margins on mature petioles. Petiole scales of tuberous sword fern are dense, spreading, and pale brown, while those of native sword fern are sparse to moderate, reddish-brown, of a single color or slightly darkened at the point of attachment and have expanded bases with small hairs.

Figure 4. Non-Native Asian Sword Fern

Resources:

http://www.floridata.com/ref/n/neph_exa.cfm

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/uw217

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/AG/AG12000.pdf

Fall Wildflower Festival

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Mon, 22 Oct 2012 16:55:00 +0000

Fall Wildflower Festival

by: Lara Miller, Natural Resource Agent

Jennifer Jones, Brooker Creek Preserve Intern

Wildflowers, field. UF/IFAS: Photos Thomas Wright

The Florida Wildflower Foundation defines a “Florida native wildflower” as any flowering herbaceous species, or woody species with ornamental flowers, which grew wild within the state’s natural ecosystems in the 1560s when Florida’s first botanical records were created. Wildflowers are beautiful and can be the perfect addition to your garden, but they can become weeds if they are growing in the wrong place. Having wildflowers in your yard can increase plant and animal diversity in your neighborhood and can help support diverse wildlife, such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Since plants and animals have evolved together, one often relies on the other for survival. Herbivores often feast on the flowers, while their nectar provides a food source to insects. The wildflowers also serve as shelter for insect eggs. Because these flowers have adapted to Florida’s climate and pests, they usually require less water, fertilizer, and pesticides than other flowers.

If you are interested in learning more about wildflowers please check out the Fall Wildflower Festival at Brooker Creek Preserve this Saturday, October 27^th, 2012 from 9:00am-4:00pm. This is a free event, held rain or shine! You will have the opportunity to enjoy a walk-through tent with 500 plants and over 250 live butterflies! Come get up close and personal with hundreds of butterflies and learn about their life cycle! There will also be wildflowers for sale as well as a fun wildflower scavenger hunt!

The Friends of Brooker Creek look forward to seeing you there!

Stay up to date on news and information affecting our environment by following your Pinellas County Natural Resource Extension Agent on Twitter.

Sources: http://flawildflowers.org/learn.php, http://www.flawildflowers.org/bloom.php

Plumeria Rust

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Thu, 18 Oct 2012 19:06:00 +0000

Featured Guest Blogger: Jane Morse, UF/IFAS Commercial Horticulture Extension Agent, Pinellas County

Have you ever wondered “what is wrong with this plant?” or “what is this insect, where did it come from and now what do I do?” or “oh my, what are these black, shiny, wormy looking things on the floor?” We hear questions like these every day at the Lawn and Garden Help Desk, supported by the University of Florida and Pinellas County, and we can usually answer your questions - free of charge.

Plumeria spp.: Photo, Okeechobee County Extension

Recently, we have seen a rash of frangipani or plumeria rust fungus. This disease produces a mass of tiny pockets of rust colored spores on the undersides of the leaves. Infected leaves become yellow-spotted on top and fall off the tree. This disease is most commonly seen during the mid to late part of summer. Although it may look rather menacing it normally does not cause any serious problem for the plant. Since the leaves are getting ready to drop off for the fall anyway, spraying with a fungicide is usually not warranted. It is best to pick up or rake away any infected fallen leaves and dispose of them in the trash. This will help to reduce the amount of spores available to re-infest the tree at a later date.

Early signs of plumeria rust on the underside of a leaf.

Later the underside of the leaf may be completely covered.

Plumeria rust spores under magnification.

For more information about plumeria rust (and other rusts) visit: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pp172

You can visit us in person at Pinellas County Extension, 12520 Ulmerton Road, Largo any Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. You can call the Help Desk from 9 a.m. to noon and 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. on Mondays, Tuesdays or Thursdays. Or you can visit our frequently asked questions website at www.AskExtension.org.

Post-Storm Flooding and Your Landscape

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Wed, 27 Jun 2012 19:03:00 +0000

Wow, have we seen a lot of rain thanks to Tropical Storm Debby! Many parts of Pinellas County are completely saturated and some are still dealing with standing water. Many plants in the landscape are not tolerant of standing water. Under these conditions the roots are unable to get oxygen and essentially the root system suffocates. Some plants can tolerate up to a week or so in these flooded conditions while others will be damaged after only a day or two. Recovery from this situation is just as varied, as some plants will recover in just one growing season while others may decline and die. Healthy established plants will generally fare better than older stressed plants and young seedlings. Here are some of the symptoms that you might see above-ground if your plants have root damage from standing water:
-leaf yellowing or browning
-droopy foliage
-leaf drop
-leaf and stem wilting
-stem and limb die-back
-plant death

There are some things you can do after this occurs to lessen the damage to some plants. If you have container plants that have been flooded put them up on blocks, bricks, gravel, etc. to allow the drainage of excess water. Due to erosion you may have sediment, mulch, etc. deposited on your plants after the water recedes. Carefully remove this sediment so as not to harm the roots. You may also have exposed tree roots where the soil was washed away. These roots should be covered with soil to protect them. Try to return the soil to its original depth/condition, as putting too much soil on the roots will also reduce the oxygen available to them. The goal is to return to pre-flood conditions as soon as possible. Furthermore, according to the University of Florida, “trees showing signs of flooding stress should have up to ½ the leafy tree canopy removed to reduce the stress imposed by soil conditions. Reducing the size of the canopy will improve the chances for tree survival”. It is recommended that you consult an arborist for this activity.

Wet soils are also favorable for a number of soil-borne root and crown rots including Fusarium spp. and Phytophthora spp. These organisms are responsible for a number of root and crown rots that are potentially fatal. Keep a watchful eye on your landscape after flooding for symptoms that often look similar to drought stress like wilting or a dull appearance to leaves. Contact Extension if you suspect these infections as there are different control and sanitation methods that may help manage the spread of the organisms. Different plant species and root and crown rot species call for different responses that would be too numerous to explore here. So, keep an eye on your landscape and an umbrella at the ready.

Finally, this post mainly addresses freshwater flood impacts. If you have experienced salt or brackish water flooding you will want to flush the plants root zone and rinse the plant with fresh water once the salt water recedes. Carefully wash away sediment and debris as well. After a thorough rinsing and flushing use the above methods to promote drainage and aeration as much as possible.

Good luck- and consider this a warning from Mother Nature. Be sure to have a hurricane plan in place for your family, pets, property, and landscape!

Summer Vegetable Gardening: Can you stand the heat?

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Wed, 13 Jun 2012 19:33:00 +0000

Okra crop

If you come to us from up north, this is the time of year you would normally enjoy vegetable gardening. That’s not usually the case here in Florida. Sure, there’s plenty of sunshine and usually lots of rain… but the heat, oh my, the heat. Most crops people really want to grow just won’t perform in our subtropical summer temps, and it can be downright brutal to weed your garden mid-July. But what if you are determined to garden in the summer anyway? Besides sunscreen and lots of water to hydrate yourself, what do you need to know?

Fresh watermelons

Summer crops for Florida are limited. Things like watermelon, black-eyed peas, okra, and sweet potatoes are best this time of year. If you are more interested in getting ready for the more diverse fall vegetable gardening season, black-eyed peas are a great choice. They are legumes and the help fix nitrogen in their roots. If you grow these as a cover crop and turn the plants into the soil before they produce peas, you will help nourish your soil with more nitrogen for the fall. You can grow and harvest the peas if you like, but this will reduce the amount of nitrogen put back into the soil.

Okra flower

Sweet potatoes are healthy (superfood anyone?) and they grow on rather beautiful vines. Growing this crop is a great way to keep down weeds in your garden while keeping it beautiful all summer long. I don’t have much to say about okra- can you tell I’m not a fan? But, if you like gumbo this is the crop for you! Finally, watermelon is a fun crop, and a summertime favorite that would be ready late August or early September if you got it planted right now. You’re going to need some space for this one, as watermelon vines can grow up to 12’-16’ long! Plan accordingly.

All of the usual tips and techniques apply when gardening in the summer as well. Things like mulching to keep down weeds and scouting for pests regularly to avoid infestation are always great advice. Keep an eye on plants to make sure they are getting enough water. We usually get plenty of water from rain in the summer, but not always. Be sure to avoid letting your garden wilt in the extreme summer heat. Plants grown in containers will need more frequent watering to avoid this. For this and much more about vegetable gardening- at any time of year- please visit http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/VH/VH02100.pdf. This handy link will give you the tools to succeed in your Florida garden any time of year, including planting dates, best varieties for Florida, and times to harvest.

Or you could just hit the beach… it’s hot out there!

Is your landscape storm-ready (Part 3)

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Wed, 06 Jun 2012 19:19:00 +0000

Part 3: Properly Training Your Trees for Wind Resistance

This week's blog was written by guest blogger Jane Morse. Jane Morse is the Pinellas County Commercial Horticulture Extension Agent. This is part two of a three-part series.

Trees are like children. When they are young they need lots of training to make sure they grow up strong, straight and healthy. Proper pruning is extremely important for good tree structure and the health of the tree. The most wind-resistant tree form is one that has a single leader or trunk with evenly spaced branches. There should be no narrow forks or branches leaving the trunk and if there are multiple trunks with sharp V angles these are very likely to split apart in a storm. Tree branches should retain 2/3 of their canopy.

The palm on the top has
been improperly pruned.
The one on the bottom
has been pruned properly.

Palms, on the other hand, should never have their fronds removed above a horizontal line, or less than a 90 degree angle off of the trunk. The so-called “hurricane cut” is the worst cut of all for palms. Palms treated in this manner are robbed of food and vigor, and will be more likely to sustain severe damage or death from a hurricane. See these links for more about pruning: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg087and http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep443. For suggestions on choosing a tree care professional, check this website: http://tinyurl.com/7gbqt6r.

Having trees that are beautiful, strong, healthy and wind-resistant just takes a little know how. Now that you know what to look for, go outside and inspect your trees. Make sure they have good structure and enough space for their root systems. If a tree needs help, contact a certified arborist who can advise you about pruning steps that can be done to create good structure, or for possible removal if the tree is hazardous.

And if a tree does fall or have to be removed, plant a new one. But plant a more storm-resistant one and make sure it gets regular pruning while young. See this link for a tree pruning schedule: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep276

Is your landscape storm-ready? (Part 2)

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Wed, 30 May 2012 19:36:00 +0000

Planting Wind Resistant Trees in Your Landscape

Dr. Ed Gilman, Professor of Environmental Horticulture, University of Florida, consulting with a resident on wind resistant tree selection.

This week's blog was written by guest blogger Jane Morse. Jane Morse is the Pinellas County Commercial Horticulture Extension Agent. This is part two of a three-part series.

After you have selected a tree for your yard and are getting ready to plant it, you need to picture it full grown. Make sure mature trees will have lots of space, both in the air and in the soil, which gives them a better chance of surviving storms. Plant smaller trees near homes, power lines and other structures.

All trees need a certain amount of root space based on their mature size. Trees smaller than 30 feet tall need a soil area of at least 10-by-10 feet and should be at least two feet from paved surfaces. Medium trees with a height and spread less than 50 feet need at least 20 x 20 feet should be six feet from pavement. Trees with a height and spread greater than 50 feet need at least a 30-by- 30 foot area and should be 10 feet from pavement. More space is needed if there is a high water table and the roots have less than a depth of 3 feet for rooting.

When planting for shade it is more important to shade the east and west walls of a house than the roof. Small trees planted fairly close to the house for wall shade will be less hazardous than large trees which can fall on the house. For more information, see these links: Urban Design for a Wind Resistant Urban Forest and Choosing Suitable Trees for Urban and Suburban Sites.

If you are a do-it-yourself landscaper, dig the hole wide and shallow so that the top 10% of the root ball is above ground level. The outer inch or so of the root ball should be shaved off to remove all circling roots, and mulch should be applied 3 inches thick and in an area 2 feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter. Mulch should come up to the edge of the root ball, but not cover it. Roots will expand best when there are no soil differences, so it is best to stick with the natural soil and not amend the planting hole. Establishment takes time and providing enough water is critical to tree survival. For more detail see this link: Planting Trees and Shrubs.

Next week Part 3: Properly Training Your Trees for Wind Resistance

Is your landscape storm-ready? (Part 1)

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Wed, 23 May 2012 17:54:00 +0000

This week's blog was written by guest blogger Jane Morse. Jane Morse is the Pinellas County Commercial Horticulture Extension Agent. This is part one of a three-part series.

Part 1: Wind Resistant Trees for Your Landscape

When it comes to trees and storms, there are victims and there are survivors. The question to ask yourself before the next – inevitable – big Florida storm is: Will your tree survive or will it come crashing down on your roof?

Trees have a lot to contend with during storms. High winds snap them and break off branches. Rain loosens the soil, making it harder for the roots to hold them up. And the longer it takes for storms to move through an area, the more water accumulates in the soil and the more battering the trees take.

A tree’s survival comes down to whether it is resistant to wind, if it is properly planted and pruned, has enough space for its root system, and is in good health. Trees with these properties can help to protect your home during a storm. Or at least minimize damage. Here are some things to consider when adding new trees to your landscape:

That some trees are naturally more resistant to wind has been shown by surveying those still standing after hurricanes. They include southern magnolia, yaupon holly, dahoon holly, podocarpus, crape myrtle, pondcypress and baldcypress. Palms in this category include pindo, areca, Alexander and sabal. You can find a more comprehensive list at: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/FR/FR17300.pdf.

According to the University of Florida's "Trees and Hurricanes," some of the weaker trees are ash, maple, water oaks, pecan, tulip poplar, Bradford pear, southern red oak, Australian pine, floss-silk tree, weeping banyan, silk oak and jacaranda.

Next week: Part 2, Planting Wind Resistant Trees in Your Landscape

Oh Deer...

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Wed, 16 May 2012 13:09:00 +0000

This week's blog was written by guest blogger Lara Miller. Lara Miller is the Pinellas County Natural Resources Extension Agent.

Tired of planting trees, shrubs, vines and flowers only to find them damaged by deer just days later? Pinellas County is a very urbanized county where human developments have replaced native deer habitats. This in turn limits the availability of natural food preferred by deer. In cases like this, deer adapt by feeding on gardens around homes. While fencing and chemical repellents are options for reducing damage by deer, a simpler, less expensive and usually more effective alternative is to landscape your yard with plants that deer do not like to eat.

Deer feed upon a variety of vegetation, but are turned away by certain tastes and digestibility. This preference for certain plants can be altered if deer populations increase in an area forcing them to feed on other vegetation they wouldn’t normally consume.

There are many common garden plants in Florida that are least susceptible to damage by deer. For example, many palms, some holly, several ferns, and certain lilies have been identified as deer-resistant plants. The tables of rarely damaged plants found in the link below may be used to guide planting decisions in areas where damage from deer is likely to be problem. Additional information on Pinellas county natural resources can be obtained through attending educational programs offered by University of Florida Extension Agents. For a list of upcoming programs visit: http://pinellas.ifas.ufl.edu/calendar.shtml

Frequently asked questions of Pinellas County residents are posted at http://www.askextension.org/. Visit this site to see if your question has already been asked or to post a question of your own. Stay up to date with publications from Extension by liking us on facebook.

Source: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/uw137

Thanksgiving Mushrooms: The Turkey Tail

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Wed, 23 Nov 2011 19:04:00 +0000

This week's blog was written by guest blogger Dusty Purcell. Dusty is a Mycologist/Plant Pathologist who studied at the University of Florida.

This Thanksgiving-themed fungus is not a true mushroom but really a polypore. Whereas your typical mushroom emerges from the soil as a stalk topped with a cap sporting gills on its underside, the typical polypore has no stalk, is attached to wood and has pores instead of gills. Polypores also have tough persistent flesh and live for weeks or months instead of hours or days as soft-fleshed mushrooms do.

The one pictured here is not the “true” Turkey Tail fungus (but it was one I could find). True Turkey Tail fungus goes by the name Trametes versicolor. This one is Trametes pubescens, one of many fungi that look kind of like the tail of a turkey. As the scientific names suggest, this turkey tail is a little more fuzzy but a little less colorful than Trametes versicolor.

There are at least 5 species of Trametes reported from Florida. It’s not always easy to tell which one you’ve found, even with a good field guide, because all of these turkey tails are similar in appearance and share a number of features. They can be found any time of the year on dead or dying hardwood trees, like oaks. They have a fan-like shape that extends 1 or 2 inches from the wood and is a few inches wide, but multiple turkey tails may fuse together into large confluent masses. The flesh is thin (maybe ¼ inch) with a pliable, leathery texture. The top of the cap may be smooth or fuzzy and often has rainbow-like zones of contrasting earth-tone colors. What differs, and allows the species of Trametes to be differentiated from each other, is mainly the texture and coloration of the cap surface and the characteristics of the pores on the underside of the cap.

These and other polypores are important decomposers of wood and vital to the cycling of nutrients through forest (and backyard) ecosystems.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Flower Pot Mushrooms

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Fri, 28 Oct 2011 20:00:00 +0000

This week's blog was written by guest blogger Dusty Purcell. Dusty is a Mycologist/Plant Pathologist who studied at the University of Florida.

There are a few delicate little mushrooms that commonly sprout from the soil of nursery grown plants. The yellow species pictured below appears to be the most common of them.

Leucocoprinus birnbaumii growing with crape myrtle trees in a nursery. The pale specimen on the left is mature and has a fully expanded cap. The picture on the right depicts several young mushrooms whose caps haven’t yet opened up into little parasols.

Despite its frequency, it has no universally accepted common name, though flower pot mushroom would be appropriate. It goes by the scientific name Leucocoprinus birnbaumii, but some field guides may list it as Leucocoprinus luteus. These mushrooms don’t harm the plants they share potting soil with; they just decompose the organic matter in the soil. You may see them any time of the year in Florida, but in the cooler months you’re more likely to see them in a greenhouse or at the base of a houseplant. While they are most conspicuous when growing with potted plants, they can also be found in compost piles, old mulch, and among the twigs and leaf-litter of the forest floor.

Mature mushrooms range from pale to bright yellow and stand about 4 inches tall. I’ll forego the detailed description here… If you see little yellow mushrooms growing from your potted plants it’s pretty safe to assume that this is your guy. They are tissue-paper delicate and don’t normally last more than a day or two before shriveling away. So try to enjoy the short lived novelty of this harmless mushroom if you ever see them among your houseplants.

Bee Balm

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Fri, 21 Oct 2011 20:00:00 +0000

Fall is a great time to enjoy wildflowers in Florida. One of the wildflowers blooming in the Florida Botanical Gardens right now is Bee Balm, Monarda punctata. This is an herbaceous perennial that typically grows to about 18” tall and spreads. Like other herbaceous members of the mint family (Labiatae), Bee Balm has leaves that are in an opposite arrangement on a square stem. You can feel the angular shape of the stem by rolling it between your thumb and forefinger. The pinkish-purple showy parts that are most noticeable are not the flowers, but bracts. If you look closely above you can see the flowers above the bracts; the flower tubes are pale with purple spots.

Bee Balm is attractive to bees, butterflies, and birds, which makes it an excellent plant for attracting wildlife. The Bee Balm in the Gardens is just buzzing with life right now! Click here for more information on this plant.

Green Gills and Fairy Rings

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Fri, 23 Sep 2011 19:23:00 +0000

This week's blog was written by guest blogger Dusty Purcell. Dusty is a Mycologist/Plant Pathologist who studied at the University of Florida.

This is the ‘Green Gill Mushroom’, Chlorophyllum molybdites. If you live in Pinellas County during the summer months, I am almost 100% certain that you have seen this mushroom.

For several reasons, it is an excellent first mushroom to learn:

1. It has a cool name. Chlorophyllum molybdites. Sound it out phonetically. No one will dare correct your pronunciation. Trust me.

2. It is extremely conspicuous. These large pale mushrooms, often in large groups, poke up through the grass on sunny lawns and golf courses. You can spot them while driving down the road.

3. It is very common. They pop up en mass around town every year during the warm and wet months.

4. It is highly distinctive. As far as I know, this is the only gilled mushroom with green spores. Mature mushrooms have green gills (hence the common name).

5. It is poisonous, being responsible for the majority of reported mushroom poisonings in Florida. Eating them can cause severe intestinal distress including cramps, vomiting, and diarrhea severe enough to require hospitalization.

You’ll find green gills following rains during summer and fall. They may be alone but are more often found in groups. They often sprout from the ground arranged in a line, arc or circle. These circular arrangements of mushrooms are called fairy rings, and they are not uncommon sights in large open grassy areas like those found in parks and golf courses. ‘Why do they grow in a ring?’ you may ask. Well, have you ever seen mold growing on a Petri dish or a slice of bread? The mold colony grows out from its center as a round expanding colony. The fungus that produces this mushroom grows through the soil of a lawn in the same way. As it gets larger the old central part of the colony dies, leaving a ring of living fungal colony to produce mushrooms when the weather is right. They won’t hurt your grass… in fact they help decay grass clippings and other organic material in the soil. This frees up nutrients for your lawn to use. If, however, you are concerned about little ones (e.g. children and dogs) who put things found on the ground in their mouths, you may want to remove them from your yard. You can pick them, put them in a bag, and throw them away with the trash. This won’t eliminate the fungus from your yard, more mushrooms will likely sprout from the fungus growing in the soil, but it will make the yard safe for grazing family members.

On the left is an immature Green Gill mushroom. The cap has not yet expanded to expose the gills. On the right is a slightly older specimen. The cap has begun to open, revealing the gills. Notice the ring of tissue that was left behind on the stem where the margin of the cap had been attached.

You can find a thorough technical description in a good field guide to mushrooms. Here you will find a simple but workable description and some decent pictures. A good specimen may be 6-10 inches tall with a cap about as big around when fully expanded. A ring of tissue encircles the stalk somewhere in its upper third, and the cap has tan to brown patches or scales clinging to its upper surface. The gills are densely arranged on the underside of the cap and are not attached to the stalk. The gills are white at first, but turn gray-green as the spores are produced. The cap, stalk and ring may be white in fresh young specimens but are usually pale tan and darken to a light brown as the mushroom ages. The gills, too, may turn brown as the mushroom ages.

The caps of these mushrooms have been folded back so you can get a good look at the color of the gills. The one on the left is younger and still has white gills. The specimen on the right is mature; the gills have turned green as they are now covered with mature spores. Notice also how the stem has darkened with age.

Young specimens, with their white gills, can easily be mistaken for mushrooms of the genera Lepiota and Macrolepiota. Old mushrooms, with their brownish gills, may be confused with members of the genus Agaricus. So, even this highly unique mushroom has look-alikes. However, mature fresh specimens, with their distinctive green gills, cannot be mistaken for any mushroom that I know of. A spore print, as seen in the photo below, is also a reliable way to determine spore color and confidently identify this neat toadstool.

This spore print was made from a fresh mushroom that still had white gills. They are easy to make. Just cut the stalk off of the mushroom and place the cap on a sheet of paper with the gills facing down. It may take a while… The heavy spore deposit here was made by placing a damp paper towel on top of the cap, setting an inverted bowl on top of it, and putting it in the refrigerator overnight. The bowl and moist paper towel keep the mushroom cap from drying out. Mushroom hunters make spore prints to determine the spore color for proper identification using field guides.

References and further reading:

Fairy Ring fact sheet from the University of Florida

Common Florida Mushrooms by James Kimbrough

Fall Vegetable Garden Varieties

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Fri, 16 Sep 2011 20:00:00 +0000

Are you planting a fall vegetable garden? Well don’t delay- planting most veggies should happen right away in case of early cold weather! When you are shopping for plants or seeds, remember that there are certain varieties of herbs and vegetables that are better suited to our climate and growing conditions. Suggested varieties for Florida are better adapted to our challenging weather patterns and more resistant to Florida pests and diseases.

Here are a few popular cool-season vegetables with suggested varieties and planting times for Central Florida:

• Beets: Early Wonder, Detroit Dark Red, Cylindra, Red Ade, Little Ball (Oct.-Mar.)

• Broccoli: Early Green, Early Dividend, Green Sprouting/Calabrese, Waltham, Packman, De Cicco (Aug.-Jan.)

• Carrots: Imperator, Nantes, Danvers, Chantenay (Oct.- Mar.)

• Celery: Utah Strains, Florida Strains, Summer Pascal (Aug.- Feb.)

• Lettuce: Great Lakes (Crisphead); Parris Island Cos, Outredgeous (Romaine) (Sept.- Mar.)

• Onions (Bulbing): Excel, Texas Grano, Granex, White Granex, Tropicana Red (Sept.- Dec.)

• Peas (English or Snow): Wando, Green Arrow, Sugar Snap, Oregon Sugarpod II (Sept.- Mar.)

For more information about vegetable gardening in Florida, including a complete list of suggested varieties and so much more, please click here to download a fact sheet provided by the University of Florida Extension.

At Pinellas County Extension – registration made easy

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Fri, 22 Jul 2011 21:05:00 +0000

Rain barrels, cooking classes, financial plans, 4-H … Pinellas County Extension has always addressed a variety of issues to help residents improve their quality of life. As an outreach of the University of Florida, the educational programs are geared toward making the most of resources, from money management skills to programs that teach energy efficient practices.

To make it easier for residents to participate in the variety of classes and program, Extension agents are introducing a citizen-friendly process to facilitate advance registration for programs. The new format will make it easy to sign up for any of the special events.

Visitors to www.pinellascounty.org will notice a process that is simple to follow, with readily available information and a fun new look.

“We are very excited about this new registration because it is so easy and fun for people to use,” said Mary Campbell, director of Pinellas County Extension. “We hope it will translate into more of our citizens taking advantage of our services.”

The new registration site will come online on Monday, Aug. 1, for all of the Extension classes that require registration, including those held at the Extension office in Largo, Brooker Creek Preserve in Tarpon Springs and Weedon Island Preserve in St. Petersburg. Online visitors will be easily directed to the registration page. Payment for classes with fees can be made using a credit or debit card (no cash or checks).

Pinellas County Extension is a partnership between Pinellas County government and the University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS) as part of a nationwide network of land grant universities. The University of Florida is an equal access/equal opportunity institution.

The mission of Pinellas County Extension is to provide research-based knowledge and education programs enabling people to make practical decisions to improve their quality of life and the world around them. Education focuses on sustainable living, lawn and garden, families and consumers, and 4-H youth development.

Pinellas County Extension offers programming at the Extension office, 12520 Ulmerton Road, Largo, (727) 582-2100, www.pinellascountyextension.org; Brooker Creek Preserve Environmental Education Center, 3940 Keystone Road, Tarpon Springs, (727) 453-6800, brookercreekpreserve.org and Weedon Island Preserve Cultural and Natural History Center, 1800 Weedon Drive N.E., St. Petersburg, (727) 453-6500, weedonislandpreserve.org.

Pinellas County complies with the Americans with Disabilities Act. If you are a person with a disability who needs any accommodation in order to participate, you are entitled, at no cost to you, to the provision of certain assistance. At least seven days prior to the event, contact the Office of Human Rights, 400 S. Fort Harrison Ave., Suite 500, Clearwater, FL 33756, (727) 464-4062 (V/TDD).

Anyone have a good cocktail sauce recipe?

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Fri, 27 May 2011 18:18:00 +0000

A dead lawn shrimp.

Just when you thought you had seen it all, along comes the lawn shrimp. Most amphipods (shrimp-like crustaceans) require water to live, but there are about 90 terrestrial species found here in the United States and Canada. These terrestrial amphipods do require moist living conditions like the underside of rocks or decaying vegetation. They are very small in size, ranging from 3/16 to 3/4 inch long, but generally just a bit smaller than a grain of rice. Lawn shrimp are often confused with springtails (see photo below), which are not crustacea at all, but insect-like arthropods who also live in moist environments in the landscape.

A springtail.

Frequently, after heavy rains large numbers of lawn shrimp will migrate into structures, where they soon die from water loss. You see, they don’t have a waxy layer to their exoskeleton (hard crunchy outer shell) so they rely on their environment for moisture. Too wet or too dry are both deadly situations, hence the migration from rain soaked soil and the resulting desiccation (drying out) once they reach higher ground. While their normal color ranges from pale brown to greenish to brownish black, they turn a red color when they die. This is how most people find them.

These harmless invaders are commonly found by homeowners under or near the doors of houses, or in garages and porches. Once they make it inside they will die and can be vacuumed or swept up and thrown away. Weather stripping under the door can help prevent them from reaching the inside in the first place. Click here to learn even more about this fascinating creature!

Those Mysterious Molds, Part 2: "Dog Turd Fungus”

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Fri, 06 May 2011 16:02:00 +0000

This week's blog was written by guest blogger Dustin H. Purcell, MS. Dustin is a Mycologist/Plant Pathologist who studied at the University of Florida.

This is a true fungus (just like other mushrooms, toadstools and puffballs) named Pisolithus tinctorius, and apparently a nice purple to coppery golden brown fabric dye can be made from them, though I confess to have never tye-dyed with this shroom. Like the “dog vomit fungus” discussed in an earlier blog post, it looks like something that might have been left behind by a dog. In more polite company, you might say it looks like a stalked puffball sculpted from chocolate. They range in height from 2 to 6 inches and terminate in a bulbous knob from 1 to 3 inches in diameter. Initially they are covered by a smooth firm skin, but this weathers away to expose and liberate the cocoa-powder-looking spores inside.

Both of these pictures are of the same Pisolithus mushroom. The one on the left is only slightly weathered and the cinnamon colored spores can be seen. In the photo on the right, taken 2 weeks later, all of the spores have been washed away by a heavy rain.

This fungus is mycorrhizal, meaning that the portion below the ground (which happens to be significantly more than the portion you see above the ground) forms mutually beneficial relationships with trees… The faux-latin word mycorrhizae is formed from the latin words for fungus and root. The below ground portion grows through the soil as microscopic strands which decay organic matter (like rotting leaves), absorb nutrients and water, and wrap around the roots of trees (especially pines and oaks). Though these odd mushrooms may be many yards from the trees with which they form mycorrhizae, rest assured that they are in partnership with at least one of the trees nearby. The fungus exchanges nutrients and water with the trees, allowing the plants to grow well under harsh conditions. They are credited with helping trees survive drought conditions and for this reason are important to forestry. They can be seen sporadically throughout the year in Florida anywhere trees grow, especially on dry sandy soil. They are not uncommon to see around oak trees planted in parking lots and median strips where they undoubtedly aid the trees in these stressful environments.

They are not known to be harmful to people or animals and are helpful to trees in the landscape. For these reasons, try to appreciate their ecological importance rather than being put off by their gross appearance.

Watch Out for Assassin Bugs!

pinellascountyextension.org (pinellascountyextension.org) — Fri, 29 Apr 2011 15:50:00 +0000

By Jane Morse, UF/IFAS Extension Agent, Pinellas County Extension

These bugs are meat-eating hunters! They are very beneficial in the landscape/garden as they prey (feed) on a wide variety of pest insects such as caterpillars, stinkbugs, aphids, and beetles. However, they are general predators and may also feed on each other and other beneficial insects. Since assassin bugs (also known as wheel bugs) are also preyed upon they have developed a unique defense system, they use their beak to squirt venom at their attacker as far as a foot away!

Assassin bug nymph

Assassin nymphs (young) are abundant this year. Several specimens have been brought into the Pinellas County Extension Service’s Lawn and Garden Help Desk for identification.

They come in many shapes and sizes as there are over 3,000 species. Their length can vary from less than ¼ inch to 1 ½ inches, and they have only one generation per year. ALL assassin bugs have a powerful, curved beak that they use to pierce and inject dissolving venom into their prey. Once the inside of the prey is turned to liquid, the assassin bug uses its beak to suck out the liquefied tissues, much like we use a straw to drink a milkshake!

This powerful beak packs a mean wallop, so be careful when working in the landscape/garden. When disturbed the wheel bug can inflict a bite described as worse than stings from bees, wasps, or hornets.
Remember they are doing free pest control in your landscape/garden, so it is very good to have them around. If you see them it is best to leave them alone, but you may want to watch them hunt for other bugs to eat. The landscape/garden can be a fascinating place to watch insects in action.

Avoid blanket spraying of insecticides and instead only spot-treat plants. Try using horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps rather than the more toxic insecticides. This will help to preserve these and other beneficial insects that are doing free pest control for you.

Click here to learn more about the assassin (wheel) bug.