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Over the past year, I have been doing a long term test on the Hadley Racing hubs. This review took a long time on purpose (even received emails from you guys asking how it was going). I wanted to get the chance to try this built wheelset on numerous bikes in as many conditions as I possibly could. Over the course of the past year, the Hadley/Notubes.com wheelset has become my go-to set and I am about to tell you why.
Test Bikes:

• Rocky Mountain Slayer SXC 70 (20mm Fox Talas 36)
• Turner 5.Spot (20mm RockShox Lyrik; 15mm Fox Talas 140)
• Kona Coilair Supreme (20mm Fox Talas 36 RLC)
• Ventana El Terremoto 6.0 (20mm RockShox Lyrik)

Test Trails:

• Local XC Trails of North Georgia
• Pisgah National Forest, North Carolina
• Local FR Spots in North Georgia
• Bent Creek, Asheville, North Carolina
• Raccoon Mtn, Chattanooga, TN

The Wheel Build:

• NoTubes.com – Stans ZTR Flow Rims (setup tubed and tubeless)
• Build Completed by Kovachi Wheels
• Total Weight – 1920g total (860g front and 1060g rear) (w/20mm end caps installed)
• Hub Setup: 10mm TA Rear (Hadley 10mm Axle); 20mm Front; 15mm Front

Install, Maintenance and General Use On the Hadley Hubs


Hadley Axle Parts - 20mm End Caps/15mm Axle

The front hub on the Hadley Racing setup is convertible to accommodate the different axle sizes available on the market today. The review hubs came spec’ed with the 20mm TA end caps and 15mm TA screw in axle. Each of the setups only take about a minute to switch out and the process is stupid easy. I really like the 15mm TA screw together solid axle as it provides a solid foundation for mounting the front wheel. The 20mm TA end caps just set in the hub relying on the rubber rings to keep them put while you install your front wheel. While these did a great job in the beginning, after multiple uses…the rubber starts to become loose and the caps have a harder time staying in while mounting. Ideally, I’d like to see a screw together axle even if that means adding a little bit more weight.
Maintenance recommendations are pretty simple. Check the bearing preload periodically by tightening the lock rings and everything seems to go together with 21mm wrenches. For the rear hub disassembly process, you are going to need a 21mm wrench and a standard Park Tool SPA-2 Spanner. With a little Teflon grease on the seals, you are good to go ride. Honestly, I didn’t touch mine (other than to disassemble for pictures and axle swap-outs) during the entire review period as there was no reason to…they just worked.
For the purposes of this review, I spec’ed in the 10mm TA rear axle for increased stiffness at very little weight penalty. The Hadley 10mm TA rear axle is the easiest to use in the business because they machined the nut to fit into the dropouts. That makes tightening the axle down a one tool/one hand operation. It is almost as easy as a quick release and you don’t need to carry any extra tools on the trail (standard multi-tool does the trick).
Hadley Racing Hubs – The Mechanics


Hadley Pawl Drive

The Hadley Racing hubs use a 72 point, 4 pawl engagement system. The actual drive mechanism looks a lot like what you find in the Hope Pro II’s and Ellsworth wheels I reviewed previously, but with a lot more engagement points. 72 point engagement gets you 5 degrees of play which is fantastic for technical riding and overall pedaling efficiency. Each engagement point is controlled by 2 spring loaded pawls. In the past, this has made for a very loud hub, but this set of Hadley’s was no louder than a Chris King while freewheeling. That was surprising as I am used to the Hadley’s being one of the loudest on the trail.
As mentioned previously, this entire drive mechanism is easily serviced with a couple of tools, so with proper maintenance…they will last for a long time. After pulling apart this set, I saw very little wear and no sign of them giving up any time soon.
On The Bike and On the Trail with the Hadley’s


Hadley Rear Hub with 10mm Axle

The first thing that really surprised me with the Hadley hub set was how well these hubs freewheeled. As you can see with the video below, it is almost like you can flick these hubs and they will never stop rolling on their own. There is very little drag on both the front and rear hub which is a testament to the quality of materials and bearings Hadley uses in their builds. This stayed consistent from day one until this review was written.
The red ano on this review set is gorgeous. Being a little bit deeper red, it matched perfectly on my black and gray bikes and the ano job showed no flaws or discoloring. Both hubs matched perfectly and provided a great contrast on the bike.
John Kovachi handled the wheel build on the NoTubes.com Stans Flow rims. The stiffness of the build was spot on and the Flow rims provide a great, wide platform for larger tires at a weight that is respectable for numerous ride conditions. Basically, combined with the engagement and reliability of hubs…this is an incredible set to take just about anywhere.
While riding the Hadley’s, the buzzing coming from the rear hub is about as loud as you would expect from a Chris King with a little bit deeper sound. Just loud enough to know the engagement is back there but not so loud that you can hear the dirt ripping against the tires. Being a technical rider, I am a sucker for fast engagement hub drives and the 72 point of the Hadley really delivers in double clutch, slow tech situations. There is very little delay between moving your legs and power getting to the ground. Slower engagement hubs have a distinct gap during this process and the Hadleys delivered the power when you need it.
During flat and rolling sections, you can almost feel the freewheeling capabilities of this hubset. There is literally zero drag as you let gravity and the bike do its thing. With some larger engagement hubs, there is a break-in period where drag can become an issue and the Hadley’s just worked from day one.
The 10mm TA rear axle platform provided a stiffer platform than a traditional quick release which allowed for a more secure attachment and let the rear end of the bikes track better. Combined with the ease of use and minimal weight penalty of the Hadley 10mm, I actually ended up converting all of my hubs to accept that axle. It has too many benefits on the trail not to. As you can see by the pictures in the gallery below, there was very little scarring or wear on the freehub body even after multiple cassettes and harsh riding conditions. Even after all of the abuse, the cassette slides on and off easily.
Overall Thoughts On The Hadley Racing Hubs

As you can see, I have become a huge fan of Hadley Racing over the course of this review. The 72 point engagement pawl drive is dead on every time with literally zero drag and the buzzing of the rear hub is loud enough to hear but not so loud that it takes away from the ride. The flanges on the Hadley’s provide a solid foundation for a stiff wheel build which makes them capable for everything from cross country riding to downhill. The convertible front hub allows fork swaps and transferring from bike to bike a breeze, but I would like to see a more secure way to handle the 20mm TA duties.
If I had one other complaint other than the 20mm TA end caps, it would be distribution. Without a website or any serious marketing behind these hubs, they can be hard to find information on to make service and buying decisions. The crew over at Hadley really needs to ramp up the promotion aspect of their product so more riders can enjoy the high quality manufacturing of their hubs.
What I Liked About The Hadley Racing Hubs

• Best 10mm TA in the Business
• Easily Convertible Front Hub
• Almost Zero Drag
• 72 Point Engagement
• High Build Quality
• Durable Enough To Use In Most Riding Conditions
• Easy To Maintenance
• Incredible Value

What Could Use Some Work On The Hadleys

• 20mm TA End Caps Need To Have A More Secure Attachment
• Better Distribution and Marketing

If you are looking for a solid hubset that can be used in a variety of riding conditions, these may be what you are looking for. I need a hubset that will perform in everything from occasional xc races to several foot drops and…to this point…these hubs have been able to deliver in all situations. They don’t have the brand recognition of a Chris King or the crazy engagement/colors of an Industry Nine, but – at the end of the day -#* they work every time and provide enough engagement to keep this tech rider smiling.

BUY HADLEY DISC HUBS
We also recommend..

• Hadley Racing Hubs Built and Mounted
• Hadley Racing – The Red Hubs Out Of The Box
• Ellsworth AM Wheels – The $1,000 Wheels Reviewed

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anyone here can help my friend.. he has a saddle sore..How to cure it? and how to prevent it?

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This is the second article in a series of guest posts by Keith Pytlinski. Keith has shot for numerous bike magazines and professional publications…so needless to say…this guy REALLY knows what he is talking about. Mountain biking photography is a hobby of mine and a lot of the riders I ride with…so I found this invaluable information a must post. You can check out more of Keith’s work over at M5 Photography.
Before we get into any of the technical details of photography, there are a few things that I left out of Part 1 that I want to cover. A major concern for many camera owners is how to transport their camera. I’m going to share the things that work best for me. If you already have a method of transport that works well, then stick with it. Starting with my smaller Canon point and shoot camera, I place it and a second battery (more on this in the next section) in a simple small case and drop it into one of the front pockets in my Camelbak. I’ve seen others attach smaller cameras to the outside of their pack near the shoulder or run a system that attaches it to their waist. For me I like the peace of mind knowing that my camera is in what I see as a safer place stashed in my pack. Yes, it takes me more time to access my camera, but again, it feels a bit more protected on my back.
There seems to be even more concern with people who shoot with SLRs. Hopefully, knowing there are others bringing their SLR on rides will ease some of that worry. When I carry my SLR, I use the same method of placing it in my Camelbak, but instead of a camera case I use a R.A.P by Skooba. The RAP product allows some shock protection, some water resistance and is less bulky than an SLR case would be. I’ve been using this method for a number of years and have yet to have any issues. Again, you’ll find what works best for you; these are some transport options that have worked for me over the years. The bottom line here is that you shouldn’t be afraid to take your camera with you.
I mentioned above that I bring a second battery with me on my rides. I think this is an often overlooked topic and can make or break your day of shooting. Many of us forget to charge our main battery the night before, and a second battery can save your butt when that primary runs out or you forgot to charge it. SLR batteries are on the pricey side; I’d like to suggest you visit http://sterlingtek.com/. Their batteries are substantially cheaper than the brand name, and I’ve yet to have any issues with the quality.
Oh look, a free camera! This is probably what someone said when I left one of my first digital cameras on a trail in Mammoth Mountain a few years ago. There was no way the person who found it would have known it was mine. This was a life lesson and one that I try to share with anyone doing photography. The solution I’ve found to work best is labeling my equipment with the following:

Reward if returned
Keith@m5photography.com
My phone number

I used to use the return address labels that you use to mail envelopes on my gear, but I found they didn’t last long. I have since discovered ID My Stuff from the folks at Maverick Label. The ID My Stuff labels come in four different sizes and they seem to have a size that fits all my equipment. I use these on my camera bodies, lenses and flash units. Of course there is no guarantee that the person who finds your gear will call or email you, but at least you’ve got that information on there.
Canon DSLR Lens Label

In Part 1, I suggested bringing your camera even when riding solo, but I didn’t offer up any suggestions on how to shoot when alone. First let me say that we can only look at so many shots of your bike on the ground or leaning on a fence. We want to see a rider in that shot! A great way I’ve found to shoot alone is by bringing along a tiny tri-pod. The Ultrapod II is one that I’ve used for years and I love its features. It’s small, lightweight, folds up nicely and takes little room to store. It is also strong enough to hold up your SLR and a small lens. These shots will take some practice, but with some effort on your part you can get great results. Find that great background, set your camera on your mini tripod, set the self timer, and dash back to your bike for the shot. Typically the self timer will have two options for time. Play with this feature and of course choose the longer timer.
Well I’m hoping since you read through Part 1 that you went out and tried some new angles with your camera and challenged yourself with getting something different. I promised to get into the more technical side of using your camera, and for this we are going to go on an internet field trip. The main goal is to get you comfortable making changes to your camera’s settings and get you out of the habit of shooting in full auto all of the time. Darren Rowse over at Digital Photography School (DPS) has already done an outstanding job covering shutter speed, aperture and ISO. I’d suggest taking your time in reading these, seeing where these settings are on your camera and even making a small cheat sheet you can bring with you on rides. So head on over to DPS. You can use that information to see which settings I used on the pictures below and why.
Shutter Speed: http://digital-photography-school.com/shutter-speed
Aperture: http://digital-photography-school.com/aperture
ISO: http://digital-photography-school.com/iso-settings
I understand the effort it took Darren to complete those articles; a huge thank you goes out to him and DPS.
Now that the tech side has been covered, let’s look at some real world examples in mountain biking photography. In the photo examples below I will explain the shot I wanted and how I got there.
Keep in mind that this is only a tiny example of the types of shots you can get while riding and shooting.
Photo01 - Mountain Biking Photography

Photo1 above was taken with my small Canon point and shoot camera. I read some feedback from my first post about a SLR being a must, I don’t agree with that statement as I’ve captured many of my favorite shots using my point and shoot. For this shot my first challenge was finding the angle that I thought would be different. I typically will take a look without the camera and envision the shot in my head, then take a look through the view finder or LCD. I wanted to shoot something low as the stairs were the main feature here. I knew if I used too fast a shutter speed that it might look like the rider was simply balancing on the stairs, so I slowed the shutter speed down enough to allow for some motion blur.
The second challenge in this shot was having enough light. You may be able to tell that this was shot beneath a tree. The fact I was using a slower shutter speed did help in this case. Increasing the ISO here would also have allowed me to get the light that was needed for this shot. Some will say using the flash would be another option here. I agree but the flash on the smaller point and shoot cameras can be a bit harsh and hard to control. Again you will find there isn’t one single correct way to get your shot and I think that is one of the cool things about photography.
The take aways from this example:

• Small cameras can get the job done.
• Choose the angle
• Slow shutter speed for some motion blur.
• I chose not to use the flash in this case.

Shot 2 - Mountain Biking Photography

In shot 2 above I was able to use one of my suggested techniques mentioned in Part 1. I was able to ride out ahead of the group, find what I thought to be an ideal location and set up for the shot. In a landscape and rider combo shot like this, one thing to keep in mind is you often want the foreground and background to be in focus. The solution here was choosing to use a smaller aperture. The use of a smaller aperture allows for the entire scene to be in focus which is what I was looking for in this shot. A larger aperture would have had the rider in focus and the background blurred.
The take aways from this example:

• Ride ahead, choose the spot.
• Get your settings dialed.
• Choose a smaller aperture to allow for everything in the shot to be in focus.

Shot 3 - Mountain Biking Photography

Shot 3 came with a few of its own unique challenges. Again the first task was to find an angle that I thought would work best and hopefully be a bit different. It’s hard to tell from the actual photo, but I am tucked down below the ledge on the left as low as I could get. The sun in this spot was less than ideal as it was at the riders back causing the rider to be back lit. I did my best to compensate for the dark front of the rider by using a larger aperture, but not so much that the sky was totally blown out. I also wanted to keep the shutter speed high enough that I could get a sequence of shots and stop the motion of the rider. This is a good example of being in position, having your camera settings dialed in and being ready for anything.
The take aways from this example:

• Find that unique angle.
• Know your settings to adapt for challenging light.
• Higher shutter speed to stop the action.
• Be prepared for anything to happen.

Shot 4 - Mountain Biking Motion Shot

When shooting cross country races you don’t usually come home with the most exciting photos. I’m hoping this one gets you thinking for the next time you are out shooting something that isn’t considered exciting. In shot 4 I decided I was going to experiment with some really slow shutter speeds and hopefully get something with movement that would create that sense of action. Normally with very slow shutter speeds and movement everything in the photo would be blurry. In this situation I used the flash to stop the action. It’s a bit more of an advanced technique that wasn’t covered in our field trip, but I wanted to give a good illustration of trying to be creative and using slower shutter speeds. I’ll cover some flash information in part 3.
The take aways from this example:

• Try something new if you are bored.
• Play with shutter speeds.
• Use the flash to stop the action. (More on that in Part 3)

Mountain Biking Photography

I feel this last example conveys many of the points I’ve talked about so far. In this shot I really went for the creative angle (I will cover how I did that in part 3), used a slow shutter speed to show motion with the blurred tire and chose an aperture that would allow for focus in the foreground and background. This maybe more on the advanced side but again hopefully it inspires you to get out there and try some things on your own.
The take aways from this example:

• Again find a unique angle.
• Know your how to change your settings to get the desired shot.
• A smaller aperture allowed for both the foreground and background to be in focus.
• Slow shutter speed for motion blur.

Thanks for reading! In Part 3 I’ll cover China Bees, Pocket Wizards and Magic Arms…..oh my.
You can check out more of Keith’s work over at M5 Photography.
We also recommend..

• How To Shoot Mountain Biking Pictures – MTB Photography – Part 1
• Your Local Trails Work Party – Take Action
• A Perfect Ride In North Georgia…Almost…
• MTB Alert: Bitterroot Travel Management Comments Due on Nov 9th

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help mga sir.. newbie.

we bought a built bike before (like 4 or 5 years ago) for around 7k. i forgot the components (generics lang siguro) maybe except for the frame 'coz it has a SPECIALIZED decal (im not sure lang if its orig or not). so my dad wants to build a bike with our old frame. village biking lang mga sir. pang exercise lang niya.

he doesn't want to spend a lot of money but he also doesn't want to buy unbranded components.

what are the stuff we need and would you recommend? budget bike mga sir.
maybe the cheapest shimano groupset? cheapest suntour fork? cheap but reliable wheelset? ano pa?

sorry if medyo magulo. noob talaga.

thank you PMTB!

This thread is dedicated to all bikers on the "heavy-built" category [just like me]. Baka maka-inspire po lalo sa mga gustong mag loose-weight, hehehe.

Im 260lbs 7mos ago...230lbs na ngayon. A bike commuter, I lost 30lbs doing my 45kms daily padyak all da way. My php 150.00 ave transpo allowance was converted to "vaccine" expense. My doc says, i need to hit 180lbs to keep my BMI proportioned.

Indeed, MTBiking is guaranteed healthy and beneficial.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Want to share your testimonials?


_______________
MODS: kindly move if there is similar thread. Tnx.

mainit init pa, mga kaibigan:

brooks saddles of england
brooks proofide for saddle leather maintenance
assos chamois creme (for your precious singit)

sapim nipples & spokes

pls call or visit the shop for more info.

maraming salamat!

greetings bike gurus...i currently run on non series shimano rds and i'm thinking of upgrading to to an acera or alivio. one queston though...why does one need to upgrade the rds? whats the difference between the non series and alivio and acera...lamans terms please gurus...newbie here

thank you

The Cardiac Attack happens at the Sta. Rosa trails on November 28, 2009 (Saturday).

What makes it different? We called it Cardiac Attack because you'll be racing up the infamous Cardiac Hill! Racers start is inside South Forbes Golf City and will make their way up Cardiac Hill towards Bukohan. It's a heart-pumping, chest-ripping, breathtaking effort on a course that is less than 10 kilometers long!

Race Mechanics:
Race Briefing 6:30 a.m.
Race Start 7:30 a.m. SHARP

-Staggered start. 2 riders to be flagged off at every 1-minute interval. Riders will be flagged off according to number (riders 001 and 002 at 7:30 a.m., 003 and 004 at 7:31 a.m., etc.)
-Point-to-point race. This is not a circuit race. Racers start at South Forbes and will end in another area. Riders and spectators will not be allowed to counterflow for safety reasons.
-No outside help allowed. Spectators and other non-racers are not allowed to extend any form of support except in a medical emergency.
-Timing shall be based on "time of day".

Categories:
Kids 13-17 (sorry, no children below 13 allowed)
Male 18-23
Male 24-30
Male 31-40
Male 41 and up
Female open

Medals for top 3 finishers in each category.

Registration fee P400.00 (includes race packet and packed brunch)

Registration forms will be made available at all Sabak branches and Knobbies in White Plains QC by this weekend.

Cardiac Attack Reg Form

HURRY. ONLY 200 RIDERS WILL BE ACCEPTED. NO ON-SITE REGISTRATION.

Thread Discussion HERE

gud day to all, mga sir ano po ba ang difference ng small hubs at big hubs na parehas nman nka ball bearing? alin po kaya sa dalawa ang mas matibay? at mas design para sa mtb? alin po kya ang mas applicable para sa mga heavy weight rider(200++lbs) na gaya ko? thanks inn advance

now for sale & on display in KNB:

brand new & unused 2010 Yeti AS-R 7

asking price: P105k

some info on the frame:
team turquoise color
size small (17.7" seat tube length)
7" travel
e-type front derailleur
1.5 to 1 1/8 headtube

as far as the seller is concerned:
- it's the only one in the country
- guguwapo yung bibili't gagamit sa frame na ito

for more info http://www.yeticycles.com/#/bikes/ASR7/

check out the other 2nd hand goods that are available in KNB: http://www.pinoymtbiker.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=33084

maraming salamat po.

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John Collins headed up to Eriksen Cycles to setup the process for his new titanium ride. Thankfully, while he was there, he was able to grab a couple of questions from Kent Eriksen (you can find the info and interview by clicking here) and test ride a Eriksen 29er mountain bike. The following article is John’s recap of the Eriksen 29er.
After spending the day with Kent, he let me demo one of his 29’er hard tail mountain bikes. Kent actually raced this bike and keeps it around for demo purposes. Built in 2009, it was the first 29’er I had ever seen up close, never mind ridden. The bike featured the following components:
Fork: Maverick DUC32 – 130mm of adjustable travel. This was the first inverted fork I had ever ridden, but I was very happy with the smooth travel and absorption. At 3.9 lbs, it was light and felt very solid on the front of the big wheeler.
Brakes: Magura Marta SL Red – Provided exceptional stopping power in fast descents down fire roads.
Shifters and Derailleurs: SRAM X.0 and X.9 Combo – Easy shifting and I needed it in the high altitudes!
Handlebars: Custom Eriksen Titanium 31.8mm – This is high quality, light weight bike bling.
Hubs : Maverick Front, Bontrager Rear – The front is a Maverick 24/7 hub which is required for the DUC32 fork.
Stem : Maverick adjustable
Bottom Bracket: Shimano XT
Cranks: Shimano XT
Tires: Bontrager Jones 2.25 X 29″

Eriksen 29er Mountain Bike

The bike weighed in at 24.2 lbs as configured. The frame was a bead blasted naked titanium finish with the Eriksen logos laid on the down tube and the chain stays. It truly is a beautiful material and requires no paint as Kent indicated in the interview. The TIG welds laid down by Chris Moore are the best I have ever seen on any product anywhere in the world, and I been a lot of place. Unfortunately, I did not get to experience the Eriksen Sweetpost. These unique and often imitated seatposts are in high demand and they were out of stock, so I used the WTB carbon seatpost in place. An Eriksen 29’er titanium crafted frame starts at $3000 and you can add a Ventana rear suspension for an additional $300. Kent knows Sherwood Gibson personally and they have a licensing agreement with Ventana, Maverick and Yeti Cycles to use their rear suspension components. Kent doesn’t see any reason to recreate rear suspensions when these companies offer great products for him to use. The man has been around bikes for a long time and seen a lot of products, so I’ll take his word for it.
Riding the Eriksen 29er

My initial thoughts when I sat on the 29’er were, #*#*#*#* this thing is like a 4×4 bike. I felt like an all powerful good ole boy riding high above everyone else with my dirt tires. I headed down a gravel road and hit every rock and small obstacle I could find to get a feel for the roll over ability of the 29’er, and it delivered. Rocks that would jar me on my 26” Hardtail were easily overcome by the 29’er.
The handling ability of the 29’er is what really surprised me though. I gained as much speed as possible down a 7 or 8 degree grade fire road which led into a tight circle around a grove of aspen trees and headed back up the hill. According to my iPhone GPS tracker I hit 38.7mph going down the hill. I hit the brakes hard on the first run because I was not sure how it would handle in the sharp circular turn.
The second run was a bit different. I slowed less and drifted around the circle quickly and was surprised at the handling ability of the big wheeler. It’s not really my style of riding now, but if I were a XC sort of guy this would be the ticket with the optional Ventana rear suspension. I made a few runs up and down this hill and really paid the price climbing in the 7600’ altitude. I told my Aunt, whose property I was riding on, that if I didn’t come back in 30 minutes she better come looking for me passed out on the road.
I also hit some ditches and set up some fence posts on the ground to bunny hop, which was pretty easy with the light weight. The weather was uncooperative while I was there so I didn’t get a chance to hit any of the local trails or purpose built TTFs, which was both good and bad. Bad because I really wanted to experience the trails and nature there, but good because Kent wanted to go riding together and I really would have passed out riding with him. It’s really hard to give an accurate review of a custom bike that wasn’t built for me. The dimensions are not spot on for me, and the components are totally customizable. Kent is a few inches short than me and I probably have 20lbs on him. Here are my pros and cons of the bike overall without taking into account my personal comforts or components.
Pros for the Eriksen 29er

• The weight of course
• Easy rolling commonly associated with 29” wheeled bikes
• Rigidity and response in turning

Cons for the Eriksen 29er

• Four wheel drive feel of the 29” wheel
• Price of titanium
• Increased chance of having your bike stolen

Final Thoughts On The Eriksen 29er Mountain Bike

Eriksen 29er Mountain Bike


If you love bikes and the process of designing, call up Eriksen Cycles.#* Everyone there loves to talk bikes, components and racing.#* If you sit down with Kent at the computer be prepared to navigate the Internet browser, as Kent is no Bill Gates when it comes to computers!#* Kent really believes in the 29’er design and tried to nudge me towards it after the demo instead of my AM/FR build.#* Titanium bikes will last a lifetime and I’ll probably transfer mine to my daughter in my last will and testament.#* My last day there I turned in the demo bike and Chad Eskins came in to talk with me about components for my bike.#* He had just returned from racing the 24 Hours of Moab where his team placed 2nd in Mens Expert class.#* Unfortunately, he was recovering from a stomach virus but still came in to talk with me before I left.#* We all kept him at bay, but his actions epitomize the customer support and passion for biking everyone at Eriksen Cycles possesses.
We also recommend..

• Pivot Mach 429 – 29er Mountain Bike Review
• First Look: Niner W.F.O. 9 Review – Long Travel 29er Mountain Bike
• Review: Kona Coilair Supreme with Magic Link Suspension Mountain Bike
• Trek Session 88 FR – Freeride Mountain Bike Review

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