Paul and Queenie's World

The Road to the Yulao Lookout (宇老觀景台))

2021-09-16T23:43:00.006+08:00

3:30 am, Saturday. The alarm rings. I get up, get dressed, brush my teeth and gather my things: Garmin, phone, charger, water etc. It’s 4:00 am, time to leave. I kiss my wife goodbye. She doesn’t stir. The cats do and give me their “are you crazy” look. I am out the door.

Outside my house two drunk girls are making weird noises sitting on the steps outside the bar opposite my house. At the 7-11 a group of foreigners are in a circle making toasts. It is still dark. For them, Friday isn’t finished. For me, Saturday has come.

Why the early morning? I was riding to Mt. Yulao in Hsinchu County, a 200 km round trip. I was going to summit from the North Cross Highway (Provincial Highway 7) and descend into Neiwan. I had read about this trip on the BikeExpress blog. They had left Yingge at 7:00 am and were forced to descend in the dark, which according, to them, it wasn’t pleasant. They started in Yingge, I was starting from Taipei. I figured an early start would be wise.

At 4:00 am the roads are empty. I drifted up Keelung Rd. Turned left onto Roosevelt Rd and quickly arrived in Hsin Tien at the intersection for the 110 to Sanxia. The Hsin Tien side of the 110 is usually a chaotic jumble of cars, trucks, buses, motorcycles and everything in between. At 4:30 am, it was empty! From here to Sanxia is about 20 km.

I pedaled past the welcoming neon signs of the convenience stores, gas stations and betel nut stands, the only open businesses at this hour and soon arrived at the only (little) climb on this road. I was quickly over it and drifting through the dark, passed the small villages that are scattered along this road. A group of motorcyclists passed me. Were they setting off on a Saturday outing, or ending Friday night? I had no idea. I was in Sanxia.

I turned left on Sanmin Road (三民路). I didn’t stop, I was chasing time to Sanmin (三民). As I edged away from Sanxia, the sky brightened, I didn’t need my light. I looked over my left shoulder. The sun was rising and I was riding under pink candy floss clouds. Beautiful. I stopped! My first picture of the day.

I pushed on for Sanmin (三民). The road started to rise. I still hadn’t eaten or drunk anything. And halfway between Sanxia and Sanmin (三民) a sudden, crippling abdominal cramp nearly dragged me off my bike. I stopped and drank, but I didn’t have food. Hydrate! Hydrate! Hydrate! The pain persisted, so did I. I refused to quit (although I thought about it). I focused on the beautiful mountains and trees and river running next to me. It eased the pain. The road got higher, the pain was still there but was fading.

It was 6:00 am and I was in Sanmin (三民). I turned onto Provincial Highway No. 7 (台7線) and headed to Sule (蘇樂), an important milestone. Sule (蘇樂) is the tiny village where you split off from the No. 7 and head to Mt. Yulao. On the BikeExpress blog they had only left Sule sometime between 13h00 and 14h00, which meant they only summited Yulao in the early evening. I didn’t want to do that. I aimed to be in Sule (蘇樂) by 11:00 am. I was making great time.

As I turned left on Road 7, I looked right and saw the Sanmin (三民) 7-11. I should have stopped. Stupid me! I needed food and water, but I wanted a real Taiwanese breakfast. I wanted egg rolls and hash browns and ice-tea. I wanted a Mei Er Mei, a JSP, a My Warm Day. Fat chance. Sanmin (三民) was still sleeping. Only the 7-11 was open. Too late! I was already 3 or 4 km further on in Fuxing (復興). I wasn’t going to turn back.

The lower reaches of Road 7 from Sanmin (三民) to Sule (蘇樂) is beautiful. It undulates through the mountains with no huge climbs, nothing terrifyingly steep. I passed through Fuxing (復興) and headed up a small hill. I looked up and there saw a Hi-Life. The promise of nourishment sucked me up the hill. And to my right was a beautiful valley bathing in the morning sun.

Laos Journal - Our Puppies in Vang Vieng

2014-02-20T13:41:00.001+08:00

I have already raved about the Eco Lodge in Vang Vieng in two of my previous posts (see here & here) but one of the reasons we were so happy staying there were because of the four puppies that were living under our bungalow. Queenie grew especially attached to them and spent a long time playing with them and loving them everyday. The puppies were only a few days old when we arrived (so we were told) and were small, crinkly and cute. We are both animal lovers and while we have two gorgeous cats, we have no dogs so we felt truly blessed and lucky to be a part of these young animals' lives for a few short days. We still miss those puppies but I am sure we wouldn't recognize them now because they grow so quickly.

Puppies Under Our Bungalow

The Video

You can see how cute and adorable these puppies and their parents were in the video below.

How we found them!

Who could not fall in love with these four darlings? They were so beautiful! When we arrived at the Eco Lodge we noticed two dogs hanging around in the dining room (it was an open dining room with no walls). They were very patient and always waiting for food. We noticed the female looked like she had just given birth to a litter. We asked and sure enough we were told she had just had four puppies. Little did we know that they were under our bungalow. That night Queenie hard scratching and squeaking through the entire night and in the morning was curious to see what had been making the noise. She went to investigate and found the four beautiful little dogs just below the floor where the head of the bed was. Well that was it, she spent a lot of time playing with them and loving them.

Queenie with one of the Puppies

I also enjoyed spending time with the puppies.

Paul and Four Puppies

The puppies were born and were living under the bungalow we were staying in. They didn't seem to mind sleeping in the dirt too much and when they cuddled together at night they were warm and dry. Their mother was also a great mother and she really took care of all four of them (to her own detriment it seemed as she was very thin). But the puppies didn't venture too far from their little home under the bungalow as it was a safe place and they wanted to be able to scamper back under if they were scared.

Coming Out

Two Puppies Next to the Bungalow Floor

Queenie and the Puppies

Queenie got really attached to them

As you can see from the video and pictures we (and especially Queenie) got really attached to the little pups. They were (as all animals tend to be) amazing. The mother and father were incredibly friendly dogs. I do remember the first time I tried to pick one of the puppies up, he just squealed and screamed out of fear. I think I might have been the first human to touch him. But after the initial shock they really warmed up to us too knowing that we meant then no harm.

Queenie with the mother

Queenie was very diligent in making sure they came out to play every morning. She would spend a long time playing with them everyday. When we had downtime she would bring them out and put them on the balcony of our bungalow so she could enjoy quality time with them. Of course it was a wonderful experience for us both.

Queenie Playing with the Puppies

Mostly Queenie just loved holding the little dears in her arms and giving them lots of affection

Queenie with the Puppies

Me with the family

Puppy Cuteness

The puppies were just so cute and had so much puppy fat on them. They really just stole our hearts. I am always a big sucker for animals and it was so nice to meet such wonderful little dogs.

Cute Puppy

Why are Puppy Bellies so Cute?

Cute Puppies

Puppies at Play

The best was watching the puppies just running around on the grass, enjoying the sunshine and playing with each other. It was also great to see how their mom and dad interacted with them and to see how well taken care of by both their parents and the hotel staff. In the beginning though only three came out from under the bungalow to play so we were very concerned that the fourth one might have some problem walking but after a while the fourth puppy emerged and was just as normal as the other three. All four of them were awesome.

Puppies at Play

The Parents

The mother and father of these puppies were amazing dogs themselves. They were so warm and friendly and absolutely irresistible. The moment we met them we thought they were awesome dogs. Not aggressive, well fed, reasonably well groomed and generally very well behaved and well disciplined and both of them really tried to do their part taking care of their babies.

Mum with her Puppies

Dad taking a breather.

The Future for the Puppies

Once again we do need to give credit to the amazing folks at the Eco Lodge who made sure that both the mother and father were properly fed and that the puppies were healthy. The dogs did live outside and I think had a wonderfully happy life being able to run in such a large area and play at will, but they were very well taken care of. We were assured that after three months the hotel staff will help to find the four puppies good new homes. We believed them as the quality of life they gave to the mother and father was commendable. And, to be fair, we didn't see many badly treated dogs in Laos.

Our Laos Journal

More stories from our trip in Laos a.k.a. "The Jewel of the Mekong"

Laos Journal - COPE - No. 1 Destination in Vientiane

2014-02-19T10:37:00.001+08:00

Any responsible citizen of the world has to visit COPE when they go to Vientiane. It is the NUMBER 1 thing to see in that city. COPE - Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise - is an incredible organization that is trying nobly to empower and enable those whose lives have been drastically altered due to the loss of limbs caused by un-exploded ordinance (UXO) during the Vietnam War. COPE now has a wider scope where they are trying to help people with any/all disabilities establish meaningful lives. It is one of the most eye opening experiences you will ever see and it is very personal too. We first heard about COPE from one of our friends who has a long association with Laos. Also, on my way to Vientiane I happened upon an article in the Sydney Morning Herald that convinced me to go. Unknown to me Queenie had also looked at some Chinese websites and when I mentioned COPE to her she said that those websites also recommended COPE as the NUMBER 1 THING TO DO IN VIENTIANE. So we went and WOW did we learn! If you are in Vientiane you just have to go. No debate!

Entrance to COPE Visitor Center

Why COPE?

Why do we need COPE? Well since Laos is the most heavily bombed country in the world many UXO remain, wreaking havoc on villagers in the countryside and tearing off their limbs . During the Vietnam War the Americans unleashed hell on earth on that small country to try and shut down supply lines to the North Vietnamese. Just to be clear, this is not propaganda. You can read the following report from the US State Department

"During the Vietnam War, over 2.5 million tons of U.S. munitions were dropped on Laos. This is more than was dropped on Germany and Japan combined in the Second World War. On a per capita basis, Laos is the most heavily bombed country in history. Up to 30 percent of the bombs dropped over Laos failed to detonate. U.S. –origin aerial weaponry accounts for a large proportion of the unexploded ordnance that is still a significant threat to public safety in Laos. The explosive remnants of war continue to impede development and cause hundreds of casualties a year. While Laos also has a landmine problem, unexploded ordnance is a much greater threat to the population, especially because of the value of UXO scrap metal, the pursuit of which brings individuals into direct contact with the weapons. Explosive remnants of war from land battles constitute a significant third threat. Population growth in rural areas and other socio-economic trends are increasing demand to put UXO-contaminated land into production, a development that also increases human contact with all of these dangerous remnants of war."

The biggest UXO threat are unexploded cluster bombs that lie buried in the jungle. While organizations are trying to clear the countryside 30 years after the last bombs fell, people are still susceptible to being hurt.

Of course there were many other types of UXO in Laos and the visitor center has some of the casings from some of the UXO they have recovered.

Cases from other Unexploded Bombs

There is a clear map of the bombing missions run by the Americans in Laos. You can see a better map by doing a Google Search but the map below shows clearly that most of Laos was hit by bombs. I can only imagine the fear and terror that people must have endured during this time.

Map of American Bombing Missions

What does COPE Do?

Part of what COPE does is go around to villages to find people who have lost limbs due to the UXO. Very often people do not know that help and assistance is available so make there own home-made prosthetic. Of course these home-made contraptions, while functional, are not optional. When COPE manages to help a person to replace a home-made prosthetic with a proper one, they ask the person to donate the home-made one to the center where they hang them up for people to see. Some of these are shown below.

Home Made Prosthetic Legs

The most emotionally difficult prosthetic legs to see are the ones made for small children realizing that young kids are exposed to these terrifying dangers in the daily milieu of their life. Tragically, many kids are hurt because they try to get the UXO to sell as scrap metal (for pennies literally) which is incredibly dangerous. The risks are just not worth it ever.

Home Made Prosthetic for Adult & Child

The one story COPE highlighted was that of Singing (see the picture below). As per the attached plaque, Singin's leg was shattered by a BLU 24 cluster bomb. "He made is own prosthesis carved from a solid piece of wood. The metal rim is made from salvaged metal. The source.....Part of a BLU 24 casing."

Singin "kindly donated his home made leg to the COPE visitor center as he had received a polypropylene leg for the first time - 36 years after his accident."

Mr. Singin's Story

It is also great to know that COPE does not just focus on helping and assisting those that have been affected by UXO. Their scope is much broader and they are there to help anyone that suffers from disabilities. There were many plaques on the wall with stories of where they have helped and what they have done. They also provide aid and assistance to people who have severe car accidents. This is becoming an increasing in Laos with modernization and a rapid increase in the number of motorized vehicles on the road. Two of these are shown below.

Monty's Story

Goun's Story

Helping Those in Need

The reality of the challenges of these people struck home hard when we were getting ready to take our two day slow boat down the Mekong River from Huay Xuay to Luang Prabang. We got to the boats very early and were sitting in a small cafe having some refreshments where we met the young 5 y/o Fovin. Fovin was mostly blind, deaf, couldn't speak, couldn't walk and had no control of his hands. COPE reaches out to families like this to provide meaningful assistance to the families so that the lives and humanity of all are honored and respected. Although we took a picture of this young boy crying, he was just wanting some attention. As soon as you touched his chest softly or gave him some food we would give the most delightful laugh. He was well dressed and well loved and the people around him were blessed with so much patience.

Fovin

What I loved about COPE was that although it makes you very aware through movies and graphics about the UXO, it is not a place for victims. It is a proactive organization that is trying to make a meaningful and practical difference in the lives of many people in Laos. One of their innovations is a "hand-bicycle" shown below. Basically if the user doesn't have legs, they use their hands by pulling on the lever between their legs. These bicycles are given away for free to people who need them. I tried to use one but couldn't get used to it. The cool part is is that they go both forwards and backwards. It is an awesome innovation.

Bicycles for the Disabled

You can see use trying to use the hand-bikes in the video below. It was more difficult than I thought it would be but once you get the hang of it it would be easy.

Ban Cluster Bombs

Although this is purely a travel blog (and we never really get political here) I would say a final word about cluster bombs. It was amazing to both of us that despite the evidence that these bombs cause pain and destruction DECADES after the war, the US has still not signed the treaty to ban them and pay very little money (visibly) to support the needs of the people in Laos and to help the clean up of the Laos countryside. These types of UXO have caused severe suffering (not only through injury and death) but also by preventing farmers from using their land to produce food for themselves. It is incredulous to me that the US, despite now knowing how damaging and ineffective these weapons are, continue to keep them in their armory. According to the UN: "Cluster munitions have a "wide-area effect", which makes them inherently inaccurate when used. Moreover, unexploded duds lying around form a life-threatening hazard for civilians long after conflict." Although over 100 states have signed the treaty to date, the biggest states in the world; i.e. the US, China and Russia; have not. Very sad.

Stand up for COPE!

Stand Up for COPE

To end this post on this incredible organization, we should end in a proactive way by asking what can we do to help them. I think the first is to be aware and educated about the challenges that Laos faces with respect to UXO, to be aware of issues surrounding cluster bombs themselves and, if you are in Vientiane, you can visit the center to receive a good education about the issues that this country faces. Secondly, and more importantly, you could visit the website @ COPE - Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise and donate money. I am sure your money will be put to good use. The third thing you can do is make others aware of the problem by directing them to the COPE website and sharing what you know about the problems with them.

Although it was a very eye opening experience, it was also a very hopeful one as it is a place that offers hope and assistance to those who desperately need it. COPE for me is the NUMBER 1 thing to do in Vientiane. Go, learn, reflect and act!

Our Laos Journal

More stories from our trip in Laos a.k.a. "The Jewel of the Mekong"

Laos Journal - Kayaking in Vang Vieng

2014-02-18T17:13:00.001+08:00

Our latest Laos travelogue is about our kayaking trip down the Sung River in Vang Vieng, a small town just North of Vientiane. We were staying at a great place called the Eco Lodge (will write more about this awesome place later) where we met a retired Australian couple, Rose & Gary and young French couple, Jeremie & Abby. They told us they would be going on a kayak trip that would start at the lodge and end in the town (about 10 km). Queenie decided we should join them and of course we had a great time. The kayaking, which included two guides and all the gear, worked out to be KIP100,000 (or USD12.50) per person. Not too bad for a lazy jaunt down the river.

The Sung River

The kayaking for us was pretty simple to arrange. I think Gary just told the reception we wanted to go kayaking. We waited at the hotel (which was 6 km out of Vang Vieng) and on the chosen day the kayaks and the guides arrived while we were waiting and drinking tea in the restaurant near the river. Pretty convenient really. The safety instructions were: "Can you swim?" "Yes!" "OK then you don't need a life jacket." We got into the Kayak's and off we went! Oh, and as you will see in the pictures, it was a gorgeous day.

Kayaking on Sung River (picture by Gary)

Everybody seemed to have a good time. Queenie was assigned the job of chief photographer and I was appointed chief paddler so most of the pictures here are by Queenie (except the ones of us and her). Of course the beginning of every journey (even a short kayak trip) is exciting and enjoyable and as can be expected, we were all happy to lazily drift down the river.

Since not much really happened on the river there isn't really to much to write or say about it. The river was low so there were a few small rapids (but hardly anything challenging) and we did stop at an organic farm for a healthy fruit juice (the guides were real and ordered Beer Laos) and then after the short break we drifted down the river to the end.

The most curious people on the river were the people on tubes floating down the river in the hot sun drinking beer. Rose told us that before there were 23 bars between where they started and the town but since some of them got so drunk and fell out the tubes and drowned, many of the bars had been closed and only four remained. Anyway, I wanted to do it not realizing what it was but after seeing it, was relieved we chose the kayak option.

Anyway, I don't really have much else to say about this except we had a great time and enjoy the pictures.

This is the place we launched from. The views from the Eco Lodge in Vang Vieng were outstanding. We loved being there.

Gary and Rosanne setting out.

Beautiful views of the Sung River stay with you the whole trip.

The sparkling water of the Sung River going towards Vang Vieng

Queenie in the Kayak having fun.

The other couple we met were Jeremie and Abby. They come from France, a small town on the border with Germany. Really lovely couple. We met them in the Eco Lodge too and they were a lot of fun the whole way.

Gary and Rosanne shooting the rapids on the Sung River. The river was low but there were not too many huge rapids. As I recall this one was the most difficult of them all.

Some of the local livestock came to the river for some water. Was nice to see them there and made the whole experience feel a little more real.

While we were having fun in the river the reality is that many people there used it as a part of their daily life. Many people caught fish there, collected water and also bathed in the river too. Made us realize what a privileged life we lead.

The picture says it all: I had a blast....was a lot of fun. Yes, it did get a little hot but so what! We had a great time....

The beautiful sparkling water on the Sung River just made us appreciate nature even more and the wonderful beauty of nature.

Everyone was having fun even though it was so unbearably hot.

These guys float 4 km in the blazing sun, exposed, on tubes down the Sung River, drinking beer. I am glad we didn't choose that option. I am sure I would have roasted. They were happy though and seemed to have a good time. It just seemed boring to me. I am glad I was advised against it as I initially did want to do it.

The stunning views of the mountains next to the river never got boring.

So there are a couple of bars next to the river where tubers can top up on the beer. There used to be 20-something bars but after some drownings this has been reduced to four. This was a guitar player welcoming people to the second bar.

You can see our guides out front. I tried to stay close to them so I could follow their path down the rapids. It worked well as we didn't topple once or get stuck once. These guys know the river like the back of their hand I am sure.

Queenie decided to take a break, as did I, and we floated down the river for a bit. It was fun just to relax and enjoy the view.

Well the sign says it all. The last bar for refills.

Just meandering slowly down the river. We were aware we were getting to the end but really were enjoying it too much to stop.

After a few hours of paddling we finally arrived in Vang Vieng. It was nice to paddle in as the night before we had watched some kayakers coming in in the late evening.

We were nearly at the end at this point. We were enjoying the final views of the mountains from the river. Truly stunning beauty.

Happy at the end. What a great experience. Everybody thought it was a worthwhile experience.

Everyone thought it was a wonderful experience and well worth the money and the effort. After seeing the guys on the tubes I was relieved that we chose the kayaks (mostly on the advice of Gary and Rosanne). It was a great day for everyone. Look forward to the next kayak trip somewhere else in the world.

Our Laos Journal

More stories from our trip in Laos a.k.a. "The Jewel of the Mekong"

Laos Journal - Temple Lunch in Vang Vieng

2014-02-13T23:32:00.000+08:00

Our latest Laos Travelogue sees us sharing lunch with worshipers in a small local temple near our Eco Lodge Hotel 6~8 km from the center of the small (party) town of Vang Vieng. We decided to go for an early morning walk and spent sometime drifting through the village, meeting local kids in a school and stopping for some drinks along the way. We saw the small temple on a hill and decided to visit. When we went inside there were four people sitting on the floor watching two Monks eat lunch. They invited us in to join them. We sat on the floor and watched them chatting (of course we didn't understand anything) and then after a while, when the Monks had finished eating, the shared the food with the worshipers. They invited us to join and so I did!

Devotee & Monk

The Video

The Video below shows a lot of what happened (just very abbreviated). We were there for about 40 minutes in total but a lot of that was just sitting around, watching, eating and trying to chat.

As you can see from the video, it was a unique and special experience.

Lunch

This Lady Provided the Lunch

We were told by the one lady (see picture above) who could speak some English that her and her family actually provided the food for the monks. It was their devotion. She said she took the food their everyday to give to them at around 11:00 am. She would then sit there and watch them eat. The other people in the temple were regulars and were there everyday too. She told us that she would sit there for an hour watching the monks eat and chat with the people around them. As soon as the monks finished eating she helped move the food to the middle of the temple and then she left. She didn't join us for lunch.

The older Monk

She also told us that the monks only ate one meal a day but as you can see in the video (and the picture above) they both looked fairly healthy, especially the older monk. He Seemed to be chatting up a storm. Some of the dishes we ate are shown in the picture below. The food was amazing! There were some other dishes too on a different tray. And as you can see, while the food is simple, it is healthy!

The Spread

There was one lady that came along with her small daughter and two very old ladies. I could only assume that they didn't have homes or families that could provide for them and so this was their daily bread as it were.

Old Devotee

Cute Baby

After being graciously invited to join the meal by the devotees (and the monks), I decided it would be rude not to join and I also wanted to taste what locally prepared family food was like. It was a little spicy but it was all super delicious (and as good as anything I tried in a restaurant in Laos) but this being their main meal of the day I decided to eat very little and give them the opportunity to eat more. But still they were insistent that we ate.

Joining the meal

After I ate a small portion and indicated I was full, the older Monk invited me to the front so that we could have our picture taken together. This was a great honor because everyone else had been keeping their distance from him as a sign of respect. He didn't speak English but the lady told us he was in his seventies. Even at that age I am sure you will agree he looked really healthy.

Joining the meal

Lessons Learned

It seems I learned many lessons in Laos, or some were just reinforced with a sledgehammer (and I hope to share some of them in these journal entries). The lesson learned on the day was the power of generosity. So often in life, when we wander in the back roads of life among those that have so little, we are greeted with warmth and generosity that is humbling. We who have much are invited to share in the meal with those who have little. Wow! It has happened so many times over the years and the many thousands of miles we have traveled: from Uzbekistan to Sri Lanka to Laos to China, generosity and genuine warmth and kindness for the foreign stranger abounds. It is the most powerful lesson of traveling that the world is not as it seems or is presented and that there is kindness and genuine humanity wherever you travel.

Our Laos Journal

More stories from our trip in Laos a.k.a. "The Jewel of the Mekong"

Laos Journal - Zip Line over Tad Sae Waterfall, Luang Prabang

2014-02-12T06:26:00.002+08:00

We love zip-lining: plain and simple. No ahs or buts! We love zooming down a wire at considerable speed. Last year in South Africa we did one in Karkloof. When we saw them advertising zip-lines in Luang Prabang we decided to do it. It looked like reasonable fun even though it didn't look as high or as fast as the Karkloof Canopy Tour. We weren't expecting too much and with low expectations we were not disappointed. We had a lot of fun doing it. Because the zip-lines were lower and not so fast we were more relaxed and more able to enjoy the rides. Also, because they weren't so fast we were able to enjoy the scenery a little more. The scenery was also a little more diverse and we did land up going over the waterfall and some elephants in the park below. That was a lot of fun. It wasn't the fastest zip-line, it wasn't the highest zip-line but it was still fun.

Queenie on the Zip-Line

The Package

On this trip we did very few adventure activities but, after a disastrous day the day before we decided to do some fun stuff. We bought a day package from a travel agent that included a walk through a Hmong Village, an Elephant ride with bath, zip-line and lunch, all of course with transport and a local English speaking guide included. The total cost for the package was US$60 per person, or US$120 for two. It was an okay price.

The Video

You can see most of the experience in the video below. The most exciting part for us was when they clipped a cable onto our backs and then expected us to free fall with our face pointing at the ground. That was a scary and intimidating experience but we both got through it okay. Other than that, we just floated between the trees, over the waterfall and back down to the bottom.

The Experience

All in all we would say it was a fun experience. Our guides were friendly but couldn't speak English. They were attentive and made sure all safety procedures were followed so we didn't feel in danger at all. My only concern was when they told me because I am over 80 kg, on one particular zip-line I would need to use a stick to brake. I wasn't that confident but the stick did its job and I stopped short of the platform. Also, they didn't give us any gloves and in the beginning I was worried that our hands might get cut by the cable or something worse but in the end everything was fine and we felt safe and secure.

Me on the Zip-Line

To get onto the zip-lines we had to walk a fair bit up the mountain. This included one particularly challenging rope ladder that was stuck in a kind of rocky outcrop. The climb itself was okay (not too high) but I managed to jam my toes between the steps on the ladder and cliff face. It was okay though and I didn't sustain any serious injury. The climb though wasn't too bad and once up and over the rope ladder we walked on for 300 m and arrived at the first platform.

Walking up the Mountain

Climbing up the Rope Ladder

The first platform and zip-line were not intimidating at all and I knew when they said I could take videos while on the zip-line that we would be going fairly slowly. It was fine. Gave me time to get some nice video and also time to enjoy the view. All-in-all there were around 20 platforms and the entire activity didn't last longer than 90 minutes (although it was probably shorter). It was very nice to actually come in over the river, waterfall and elephants and it was great to actually land and in the base camp and not actually walk anywhere.

Nice View of the Forest

The "scariest" part of the whole zip-line were the few vertical descents we had to make going down face first, with no hands, completely suspended in the air and supported by the guide. The first time we did this was really scary for us both but after the second time we were fine and found it relatively easy to do.

Getting ready to be lowered face first.

Queenie happy to be down

All-in-all it was a fun experience. We have been on faster and higher zip-lines in the past but this one was relaxed and fun and not so intimidating. We enjoyed it and would probably do it again if we ever went back to Luang Prabang.

Our Laos Journal

More stories from our trip in Laos a.k.a. "The Jewel of the Mekong"

Laos Journal - Carrying Firewood near Ban Nam Dee (Namtha)

2014-02-11T00:00:00.000+08:00

We were on our way to the small village of Ban Nam Dee, about 6 km outside of Namtha, a town in the Northern part of Laos, when we went down to the river and quite by accident saw this lady silently carrying a big pile of firewood on her back. She carried it from afar, across a field, through a river, up the steep river bank and then back down towards the village. We were amazed at her strength, resilience and evident dignity. We silently watched and desperately wanted to offer a helping hand but knew this would be rejected as it is something that is done day in and day out over the course of her life. All we can do is pray that their lives will improve and offer help and assistance where we can.

A heavy load

The video below shows just how heavy the load was and how effortlessly she appeared to bear this heavy burden. She walked up the river bank and after the video ends she headed off into the town.

Sometimes pictures tell the story better than words and the picture below shows just how steep that river bank was from the top.

We saw a lot of firewood under many of the homes in the rural villages of Laos and often we saw firewood being sold in the markets for people to take home. Whether this woman was collecting for personal use or for money we will never know. Our brief connection in this life is over but it did give us both pause for thought about how privileged our lives are. It also gave us pause to think how women in rural communities are forced to work so unnecessarily hard in this life.

I grew up in Africa and we often saw these kinds of things but I have been away too long and it opened my eyes again to the reality of life for many millions of people around the world today. Where you can help, help. Every little bit counts.

Our Laos Journal

More stories from our trip in Laos a.k.a. "The Jewel of the Mekong"

Laos Journal - Fire in Luang Prabang

2014-02-10T07:46:00.000+08:00

On Friday 31 January, after a challenging day all around, we were on our way home and saw this huge fire that had already engulfed one building and was about to start burning the buildings next to it. It was tragic to watch. Fortunately there were no injuries or deaths that we could see but sadly whole lives had been destroyed. What was especially gut wrenching was watching people run into their homes to rescue their few possessions. It was a very sad night.

Building on Fire in Luang Prabang

We arrived when the fire had already gained traction. We spoke with some of the people who were staying in the hotel. The one girl told us she had smelt something bad one hour earlier and had asked the reception if everything was okay. At that point there seemed to be no concern by anybody. Other hotel guests told us that they had left their passports and possessions in the hotel while they went out for dinner and came back when the hotel was in full blaze and had lost everything. The worst though were definitely the two homes that lost everything in the blaze and the two families and hotel owners who would have to rebuild their lives from scratch.

The video below starts from about the time we arrived at the fire and as you can see, nobody was really doing anything in the beginning to put the fire out.

As mentioned above, when we arrived there was nobody really engaging the fire and it took the fire department 30 minutes to send the first truck. The situation was complicated by the fact that there are no fire hydrants in Laos and so the only water they could use was the water in their tanks. Every time they seemed to start to get control of the fire they ran out of water and the fire would gain strength. I cannot say how long we stood there for but when we left (and four water tankers later) the fire did seem to be under control.

In the morning I went back to see the damage caused by the fire: it was tragic. It is good nobody was injured or killed but many things were lost in the fire.

Khammany Inn which sustained serious damage

Inside the Hotel

The House that Caught Fire First

As you can see the damage in the hotel was extensive and the house completely gone. For a while there we were worried that no one would come to fight the fire and that the entire block was in danger of burning up. Thankfully fire trucks did eventually arrive. The other problem is that many of the homes in Laos are made of wood which meant the situation could have become much worse very quickly. In retrospect it is amazing that only three buildings burned down. We never did find out what caused the fire but my guess is something left on a stove unattended (although I may be completely wrong).

This was not a happy event to witness and while we are glad no one was injured or killed, we do hope and pray that those who lost their homes would be able to recover and that there lives would be healed.

Our Laos Journal

More stories from our trip in Laos a.k.a. "The Jewel of the Mekong"

Zip-lining in South Africa - AWESOME STUFF

2014-02-09T22:52:00.000+08:00

In February 2013 we returned to South Africa to visit family and friends. While in a coffee shop we saw a flyer advertising the Karkloof Canopy Tours, which turned out to be a zip-line over one of the largest remaining indigenous forests in South Africa. Queenie and I have long wanted to do the flight of the Gibbon in Thailand, but to date haven't had the chance. This was the perfect opportunity to try zip-lining AND IT WAS AWESOME!!!!!

Getting Ready to Fly

The Video

We were fortunate enough to take an awesome video of our flight over the canopy. Along with my dad and his wife Yvonne, we were joined by two other couples: Robert & Jessica as well as Manny & Melissa. As you can see from the video everyone had an awesome and amazing time.

Getting Ready to Fly

Dad and Yvonne all Kitted Out

When we arrived at the base camp for the Canopy Tour we were given a proper introduction to the company, zip-lining and were properly kitted out with the right gear to make sure that we didn't fall off the zip-lines. All-in-all it was a very professional setup and very well done.

In the Four Wheel Drive

Once we were all ready to go we were driven to the first platform in a four wheel drive. It was a nice bumpy ride through the forest but it was definitely better than having to walk up the mountain.

The Zip-Lines

On the Zip Line

Zooming down the zip lines was awesome! On some of the lines we were told we were reaching speeds of 80 km/h. It was a lot of fun. Some where more difficult than others because we needed to break or dodge trees (always a good thing), but the whole experience was amazing and well worth the cost and the effort. You can see Queenie dodging a tree below.

Queenie Posing on the Line

It should be noted that I was doing this barely a month after knee reconstruction surgery and I was still in a brace. Also, my dad was 70 years old at the time of doing it so I think it is possible to do this irrespective of age or disability.

My Dad (Ken Sharpe) Looking Serious

Yvonne (my step mom) also had a great time on the zip lines. She was completely up for it and possibly one of the more enthusiastic participants on the day. She got completely into the whole experience and really enjoyed all the fun that was to be had.

Yvonne Having a Great Time

My dad had a problem keeping his helmet on some of the time. He was very nonchalant about the whole experience. Having been a builder in his youth and having worked on high-rise buildings, heights present no problem for him at all. He just seemed to think this was all in a days work. At the end though he did admit he had a good time. We were pleased to hear that!

Dad Losing His Helmet

For me the most challenging part were the take offs and the landings. Having a semi-functional knee that was still in some pain, I had to be especially careful protecting it. With a little common sense (yes I know, doing this with a reconstructed knee seems to show a lack of common sense) and careful positioning of the body, I managed to get through the entire experience with no problems whatsoever.

Careful Launches Were Neccessary

And I am Off

Some of the zip lines had real height to them. The girl in the picture below, Jessica, had also done zip-lining in Costa Rica but felt that this one was far more exciting. We have also recently gone zip-lining in Laos and felt that this one was faster and higher.

Jessica Above the Canopy

I think the "scariest" part of the whole course was the vertical drop. It was about a 10 m drop straight down on a rope. Almost like free falling. It actually wasn't that scary and a whole lot of fun.

Jessica Getting Ready to Free Fall

The Views

Spectacular Views

We all agreed that one of the best parts about the whole experience were the amazing views of Karkloof and the mountains in the distance. The views (as you can see from above and below) were stunning. The best views were on the second and third platforms. When we came out from under the trees from the second platform we were pleasantly surprised by these amazing views and most of us were quite happy to sit there and enjoy the view before taking off again.

Just Stunning

The third platform was a rocky outcrop that was quite large and had a waterfall flowing through it. It was the perfect spot for a group picture.

Dad by the Waterfall

Group Picture by the Waterfall

The End

End of the Zip Lines

After zipping down the lines for a fair few hours we finally made it to the last platform. After that we had to take a pleasant walk through the rain forest back to the base camp for some refreshments. The walk through the forest was beautiful as it is still indigenous and largely untouched by many (except for the trail that we were walking on). It was a nice way to end the ride.

Back to Base Camp

Once out of the rain forest we were back on the carefully manicured lawns of the base camp, which of course was the perfect place for the "hero" shot because after all, as you heard Queenie say in the video: "We had conquered the whole world!"

Queenie is is happy she made it down

I was relieved the knee was still in tact

Sandwiches and Drinks at the Base Camp

Brilliant Experience

At the top of Platform 2

Everyone agreed it was an amazing experience and one well worth the effort. No one regretted it and it was quite easy to manage (even with an injured leg). The company is very well organized, they have strict safety standards, careful safety instructions and provide a wonderful experience for everyone who dares. Admittedly I am afraid of heights but this was really easy to do and at no point was anyone really afraid or did anyone think it was dangerous.

A top rated experience so, if you are in the area, go do it!

Laos Journal - The Most Efficient Airport in the World

2014-02-08T23:40:00.001+08:00

Wattay International Airport

To get to Laos from Taipei we had to fly via Bangkok. We were flying Thai airways so everything was smooth. Because of the tight turnaround time in Bangkok we had two ladies escort us to the boarding gate for the Vientiane flight: one lady walked behind and the other in front of us to make sure we stayed on track and didn't get distracted by duty free shopping. We arrived at the gate for our flight to Vientiane and once again had a smooth one hour flight to Vientiane.

Our Transfer in BKK Airport

Once in the Wattay International Airport we had to apply for our visa, pay for our visa, collect our visa, go through immigration, collect our bags, find a taxi, get to the hotel, check in and finally settle down for the day. Well, to cut the long story short our flight landed at 12:50 pm and we were checked into our hotel (Sentgawan Riverside Hotel) and in our room in the middle of Vientiane by 1:20 pm. Only an incredibly efficient airport can manage that. Granted, the airport is small and not busy, but still to be able to do all that in half-an-hour blew us away.

Queenie Outside the Airport

Based on our solitary experience in this airport, we were impressed (the domestic side is another story). We really do think the SOP in this airport is quite remarkable.

We do hope to share more of our stories from Laos here from time to time because, apart from the airport, we had an AMAZING time. Laos is a truly amazing country to visit. Despite the many challenges we faced with health and electronic equipment failure, we had a brilliant time and met many amazing new friends.

And as always, we look forward to your comments and feedback.

Our Laos Journal

More stories from our trip in Laos a.k.a. "The Jewel of the Mekong"

Laos Journal - 2014

2014-02-08T07:31:00.000+08:00

In 2014 we spent two incredible weeks in Laos PDR. We spent a couple of nights in Vientiane before flying North to Leung Namtha to meet up with an old anthropologist friend of ours. From there we went South West on a bus to Huay Xuay, spent two days on the Mekong River (over nighting in Pak Beng) to the old Royal Capital and World Heritage City of Leung Prabang. From there we drifted down to the party town of Vang Vieng and hung out in an eco lodge and bathed in the Sung River from the locals. Our final day was spent back in Vientiane before flying home to Taipei. We had an amazing time. We saw temples, had challenging days, nearly adopted some puppies and saw some tragedies too. We learned many lessons on this trip and we are happy to share some of those stories with you below.

Beautiful Sunset on the Mekong River near Pak Beng

The Most Efficient Airport in the World

We recently spent two weeks travelling in Laos. One of the most amazing features of the trip was our arrival at the Wattay International Airport (shown below) in Vientiane which, on first appearances, appeared to be the most efficient airport in the world. in the Wattay International Airport we had to apply for our visa, pay for our visa, collect our visa, go through immigration, collect our bags, find a taxi, get to the hotel, check in and finally settle down for the day. Well, to cut the long story short our flight landed at 12:50 pm and we were checked into our hotel and in our room in the middle of Vientiane by 1:20 pm. Only an incredibly efficient airport can manage that

COPE - No. 1 Destination in Vientiane

Any responsible citizen of the world has to visit COPE when they go to Vientiane. It is the NUMBER 1 thing to see in that city. COPE - Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise - is an incredible organization that is trying nobly to empower and enable those whose lives have been drastically altered due to the loss of limbs caused by un-exploded ordinance (UXO) during the Vietnam War. COPE now has a wider scope where they are trying to help people with any/all disabilities establish meaningful lives. It is one of the most eye opening experiences you will ever see and it is very personal too. We first heard about COPE from one of our friends who has a long association with COPE. Also, on my way to Vientiane I happened upon an article in the Sydney Morning Herald that convinced me to go. Unknown to me Queenie had also looked at some Chinese websites and when I mentioned COPE to her she said that those websites also recommended COPE as the NUMBER 1 THING TO DO IN VIENTIANE. So we went and WOW did we learn! If you are in Vientiane you just have to go. No debate!

Carrying Firewood near Ban Nam Dee (Namtha)

Fire in Luang Prabang

Zip Line over Tad Sae Waterfall, Luang Prabang

Temple Lunch in Vang Vieng

Kayaking in Vang Vieng

Our Puppies in Vang Vieng

I have already raved about the Eco Lodge in Vang Vieng in two of my previous posts (see here &here) but one of the reasons we were so happy staying there were because of the four puppies that were living under our bungalow. Queenie grew especially attached to them and spent a long time playing with them and loving them everyday. The puppies were only a few days old when we arrived (so we were told) and were small, crinkly and cute. We are both animal lovers and while we have two gorgeous cats, we have no dogs so we felt truly blessed and lucky to be a part of these young animals' lives for a few short days. We still miss those puppies but I am sure we wouldn't recognize them now because they grow so quickly.

Joining Toastmasters - The Journey Begins

2014-01-14T17:09:00.001+08:00

Queenie and I have both recently joined the TGIF Christian Toasmasters Club here in Taiwan. We are really excited about this opportunity and certainly hope to learn a lot from the experience.

So far we have only done some Table Topics talks and we seem to do OK with those. We are both looking forward to doing our first speeches. Queenie has also had the honor of being the timer and the AH counter and two separate meetings. She has done a great job on both occasions.

Joining has so far proved to be one of the most positive experiences in our lives for a long time. It is a very warm and welcoming club and everyone is welcome. I always love what our President Lester Lin says every time: We treat every guest as if God himself sent that person through our doors.

Anyway, look forward to a long and fruitful affiliation with this group.

Pudding & Shadow - Flower Market Cats

2014-01-13T19:23:00.000+08:00

As I have mentioned before, last year we adopted to precious cats: Pudding and Shadow. Instead of inundating this blog with their pictures and posts about their antics, I went ahead and created a Facebook page called: Pudding & Shadow - Flower Market Cats. People who like cats can follow them. there The page shows pictures of them with inspirational quotes to help encourage people in their lives. An example of one of the pictures is below.

Would be great if you could become their FB fans by clicking on this link: Pudding & Shadow - Flower Market Cats.

Thanks so much for your support. It is much appreciated.

Views of Taipei

2014-01-12T16:13:00.004+08:00

I know I haven't updated my blog in a long time. Should get back to it this year I think. Not sure how often I will post but will try to do more. Anyway, just wanted to share a couple of views of Taipei taken over the past six months. I have just been experimenting with panorama shots and I got some lovely ones from the top of Elephant Mountain.

View from Elephant Mountain

Further Along the Trail

View from Yangmingshan

View from my Rooftop

Dusk from Culture University

Night View from Maokong

Taipei is an awesome city - I really do love living here.
Happy 2014 all

Our Beautiful Cats

2013-09-06T10:25:00.002+08:00

We adopted a new cat Shadow, on the right of the picture. Pudding is on the left. I love these cats. They are so beautiful. And Pudding (seen below) is one of the best natured cats I have ever known. Happy to be with them. They are both boys. Pudding is now 5 months old and Shadow is now 3 months old. Getting big fast!

Riding the (Insane) Toucheng (頭城) Loop - 165 km

2013-07-09T22:54:00.002+08:00

This time I definitely bit off more than I could chew! Riding to Toucheng and back would have been fine if I didn't take the Yilan First Highway (宜1). If I had just ridden straight to Fulong (福隆) on Road 2 and then turned left through Gongliao (貢寮) I would have been fine. However, I decided to do the loop through the mountains and I can honestly say, this was my toughest day on the bike yet. For me it was a monster ride and I think I still need to train more to do it effectively. I left home at 5:30 am and only got back at 8:00 pm: 14.5 hours out on the road is too long. Still, I am proud that I got to the end and now I know how tough this one is. Also, it is a beautiful ride! You first ride to Pinglin(坪林), then Toucheng (頭城), then along the coast to Daxi (大溪), over the mountains to Shuangxi (雙溪) and then through the (lower) mountains to Shenkeng (深坑) and home. It is a beautiful ride but a tough one and you need to be fit and have stamina to get through it.

Turtle Island, Toucheng (頭城)

The Route

So today I rode from Taipei through Pinglin (坪林) to Toucheng (頭城) along Road 9 and then to Daxi (大溪) on Road 2. From Daxi (大溪) I followed the Yilan First Highway (宜1) and then continued on the mountain roads until I got to Shuangxi (雙溪). From Shuangxi (雙溪) I jumped onto Road 2丙 , passed and then from Shifen (十分) followed Road 106 all the way back to Shenkeng (深坑) and then rode home through the city. Since the ride took 14.5 hours, the battery on my GPS failed, the route that was mapped was cut short just after Jingtong (菁桐). You can see the route I wanted to follow here.

Riding for Rhinos

First up, whenever you see me riding my bike now, you will see my helmet has a red replica Rhino Horn on it. The horn is an initiative set up in South Africa to help raise funds to fight Rhino poaching, to help bring awareness about the current crisis and to try and stop people killing these beautiful animals for unscientific beliefs that Rhino horns have curative benefits. The biggest culprits in this trade are Vietnam, Mainland China and Hong Kong. Some illegal product does come into Taiwan but I think not that much (although I don't know). The horn on the helmet makes people curious and I managed to start a few conversations on this ride and start to educate people in Taiwan about the need for a global effort to preserve Rhinos. It is a small thing, but if everyone does their bit, we can save these beautiful creatures from certain extinction. Follow the Rhinose Day Facebook page.

I will willingly admit though that the big plastic horn, mounted on the helmet makes it hotter and you feel much more wind resistance so it makes riding harder. It took me a few hours to get used to having it there and when cross winds blow you really start to feel the impact. Still, I am doing this for a reason: to start conversations and educate people and so far so good, the conversation has started.

Riding to Pinglin (坪林)

The Xindian (新店) River - Love the Low Lying Clouds on the Mountain

There are many ways to get to Pinglin (坪林) but I chose the most direct road which is along Road 9 from Xindian (新店). I woke up at around 5:00 am and was out the door by 5:30 am. The plan was to get to Pinglin (坪林) by 8:30 am, have breakfast there and then leave for Toucheng (頭城) at 9:00 am. I took the simple route out my door and went along the river to Xindian (新店). I was surprised by how many people were exercising on the riverside path so early in the morning. It was a beautiful morning but it has been a long time since I was there early and forgot just how many people like to get out and exercise. I think it is brilliant! I went slower than normal along the river to Xindian (新店) as I wanted to stretch my legs, warm them up and save them for what was to come. Still, I got to Xindian (新店) by 6:10 am and started to follow Road 9 to Pinglin (坪林).

Early Morning on the Xindian (新店) River

Once I got passed Xindian (新店) and through the built up area along Road 9, the spectacular evergreen beauty that surround Road 9 from here all the way to Toucheng (頭城) begins to show itself. It is exquisite scenery and every time I ride Road 9 I am just in awe that such amazing natural beauty is so close to Taipei and yet so far from many people's minds. I wrote about the beauty of this road when I did the Pinglin Lasso a few weeks ago, but on that occasion I was riding it in the opposite direction from Pinglin (坪林). However, Road 9 is beautiful whichever side you ride it from. I was happy to be out of the built up areas so quickly and gliding through nature.

Early Morning View on Road 9 to Pinglin (坪林)

I did naively assume that since it was early in the morning there wouldn't be that much traffic along Road 9. I was wrong. Although not as busy as usual, there were still many buses, cars, trucks and motorcycles racing up and down Road 9. I knew that this would only last until Pinglin (坪林) but still, I would have preferred to have a quieter road. Of course there were many early morning cyclists on Road 9 too which provided more motivation to get up the mountain as fast as possible. When I saw a 60-something year old man pass me I decided to tuck in behind him and draft him for a bit. He eventually pulled away from me when I stopped to take a picture but he was in pretty good shape. It is really great to see people of all ages cycling early in the morning and getting fit.

Early Morning Cyclist on Road 9 to Pinglin (坪林)

Road 9 to Pinglin (坪林) is beautiful all the way up. There is a lot of vegetation on both sides of the road all the way from Xindian (新店) to Toucheng (頭城). This provides ample shade and protection from the burning sun that was with me most of the ride. I was able to stay cool most of the way to Toucheng (頭城) and relatively un-burned from the sun.

Another Beautiful View on Road 9 to Pinglin (坪林)

Shade on Road 9 to Pinglin (坪林)

The climb up Road 9 to Pinglin (坪林) starts at around the 15 km marker and the first main part of the climb ends at around the 23 km marker. So the ride up is about 8 km and about 410 m of climbing. When you get to the 23 km marker you are served with stunning views of the valleys and mountains and makes the climb up worth the effort.

View from the top of Road 9 to Pinglin (坪林)

Once passed the 23 km marker the road flattens out considerably for a few kilometers and the top of Road 9 is finally reached at the 26 km marker, but the ride from the 23 km marker is pretty simple with beautiful views of the valleys on one side (see above) and tea fields on the other side.

Tea Fields at the top of Road 9 to Pinglin (坪林)

Once the descent into Pinglin (坪林) starts at the 26 km marker, you have a short view of the Fetsui Reservoir (翡翠水庫). You can only see the dam through the trees. I would love to ride around this reservoir but the only access road I know of on Road 9甲 to Wulai (烏來) is blocked by a boom gate and some security guards. I have never tried to cycle through the boom gate. Next time I will try but I don't think I will be allowed through.

View of the Fetsui Reservoir (翡翠水庫) on Road 9

Of course the best part of any climb up the mountain is the rapid descent down the other side of the mountain. I love just tucking my body up and drifting around the curves in the road and feeling the cool breeze on my face. The way down is very liberating and always, after a hard climb up, much appreciated. Of course, the views remained spectacular all the way down into Pinglin (坪林)

Stunning Views on the way down Road 9 to Pinglin (坪林)

Once you get to the river in the valley you know you have arrived in Pinglin (坪林). It is a quick ride down the mountain and when I arrived in Pinglin (坪林) I was happy. I always take the picture of the river (see below). I don't know why, I just think it is a beautiful view.

At the Bottom of Road 9 to Pinglin (坪林)

I got into Pinglin (坪林) at 8:00 am on the dot. I was impressed that it had only taken me 2.5 hours from home. I was only expecting to arrive at around 8:30 am. I was ahead of schedule. I needed to eat breakfast so found a small restaurant where I could sit down and eat. I was there for about 20 minutes eating and refreshing water supplies. It was good to take a break and enjoy the early morning ambiance of this small country town. All too soon (at 8:20 am) it was time to leave and head for Toucheng (頭城).

Onward to Toucheng (頭城)

Toucheng (頭城) and Turtle Island

After finishing breakfast and doing an inventory of myself, I found I wasn't particularly tired and was in pretty good shape to go over the next mountain. I thought it would be a good ride up and down. I have never ridden passed Pinglin (坪林) on Road 9 before so I was looking forward to discovering a new road and seeing new things. I jumped on the bike, crossed the river that divides Pinglin (坪林) and at the 38 km marker on Road 9, started the climb up to Toucheng (頭城).

River in Pinglin (坪林)

Once over the river in Pinglin (坪林) the climb up the mountain starts but ,fairly soon after crossing the river, there are some beautiful views of Pinglin (坪林) itself. Pinglin (坪林) is a small riverside town that is famous for its tea. The town itself has a Tea Museum and many different tea houses. There are also some rivers that extend out of the town along which people can walk and in which people can swim. I definitely think Pinglin (坪林) should be on any tourist itinerary for Northern Taiwan.

Early Morning Pinglin (坪林)

As you move further up Road 9 you pass an elaborate gate for a temple and you start to see some beautiful little hamlets buried in the river valley. The views of the valley are stunning. After riding up Road 9 I made a decision that sometime in the near future I will spend a day cycling around the farm roads in Pinglin (坪林). I think it will be a rewarding experience! There are many little roads that shoot off from Road 9 and I think they would take me into beautiful valleys and through small communities. I intend to do the ride soon so lookout for that post.

Elaborate Temple Gate on Road 9

Beautiful Valley View on Road 9 to Toucheng (頭城)

Beautiful Hamlet from Road 9 to Toucheng (頭城)

As I mentioned earlier, the ride up Road 9 is surrounded by vegetation and there is ample shade most of the way. Considering this was a blazing hot day, the shade was much appreciated and the ride was significantly cooler than it could have been.

Shade on Road 9 to Toucheng (頭城)

I thought I would tire quickly on the climb up Road 9 but I was surprisingly fresh and my legs didn't really burn at all. I carried on pressing further up the mountain expecting my legs to feel the pain sooner rather than later, but the pain never came. I was happy to be feeling so good and I was getting increasingly optimistic for the rest of the day. I was pushing hard up the mountain, making good time and was enjoying the ascent and the views of the surrounding mountains.

View from Road 9

After about two hours of riding I could see the gradient of the road was decreasing. I was looking up at the mountains thinking that the end of the climb must be in sight. And I still wasn't feeling particularly tired. I had made good time to the top of Road 9 and felt that it could only get easier on the other side when I had a long and expected downhill into Toucheng (頭城). I realized I was near the top when I came onto a part of the road that had some beautiful green coniferous trees lining the road. It was beautiful and cool.

Beautiful Trees on Road 9 to Toucheng (頭城)

When I passed this part of the road and turned the corner, I looked up and could see what was clearly the top of the mountain. I was happy. As I approached the top I saw the sign that welcomedme to Yilan (宜蘭). I knew from that point on that I would be going downhill all the way to Toucheng (頭城). But it should be said, the greatest part of being at the top of the mountain was the amazing views of the rice paddies, the coast, the ocean and Turtle Island. Just absolutely stunning!

Turtle Island and Toucheng (頭城) from the top of Road 9

Sign at the top of Road 9 in Yilan (宜蘭)

The other incredible views from the top of Road 9 are those of the road and the beautiful greenery that surrounds the road on the way down into Toucheng (頭城). The road is completely surrounded by greenery and after looking at it I was looking forward to gliding down the road and getting in among the rice paddies before I finally made it in to Toucheng (頭城). The views of the ocean, Turtle Island, the rice paddies and the Road 9 itself made the ride up Road 9 from Pinglin (坪林) worth it and I would really recommend this road as one everyone should make an effort to ride.

View of Road 9 and the Surrounding Vegetation

After admiring the view of Toucheng (頭城) and the surroundings for a while it was time to head down the mountain. The road up from Toucheng (頭城) certainly looked like much a more difficult and much steeper ride. There were multiple switchbacks all the way up the mountain and the acceleration down was brilliant.

Switchbacks down Road 9

I all too quickly arrived at the bottom of Road 9 and managed to find a 7-11 in Toucheng (頭城). I looked over my left shoulder up the mountain and could see the place I had just come from. It was an incredible ride down but, as all downwards journeys on a bicycle, was over far too soon. One thing I am determined to do is ride this road in the opposite direction and see what it feels like going up this side of the mountain. I am sure it is more difficult than coming up from the Pinglin (坪林) side and would need a big effort to get to the top.

At the bottom of Road 9 looking Up

Into the Furnace

Temple in Toucheng (頭城)

After stocking up on water it was time to head out of Toucheng (頭城) for Daxi (大溪). However, after riding in the cool mountain air on the mountain before descending into Toucheng (頭城), the heat came as a sudden shock to the system, but was not unexpected. It was a beautiful blue sky day, the sun was pouring down, it was already midday: brilliant weather all around really. I road around Toucheng (頭城) a bit because I remembered there was a place with a coffee shop and great views of Turtle Island. Turns out it was on Road 2 and I didn't have to deviate but I did ride passed a beautiful temple close to the beach (see above). When I did arrive at the tourist center where there is a coffee shop (and some shade), it was time to take another short water break. The picture at the top of this blog post was taken there. As you can see, it was a super hot day.

Enjoying the View of the Beach and Turtle Island

After resting for a bit, it was time to head for Daxi (大溪) and the mountains. Although it was very hot along Road 2 and even though Road 2 from Toucheng (頭城) to Daxi (大溪) is narrow in part and busy with trucks, buses and cars, the ride itself was pleasant. The ride to Daxi (大溪) from Toucheng (頭城) is short (maybe 12 km) and I made good time getting there fairly quickly. I was now really looking forward to climbing up the Yilan First Highway (宜1) but did not realize how tough this road was going to be and that it would be the road that did significant damage to my ability and confidence going home.

Riding Along Road 2

The views along Road 2 to Daxi (大溪) were brilliant all the way and for most of the time I had a great view of Turtle Island. The day was so clear and I got some great pictures of this beautiful little island and the coast line along the road.

Beautiful Turtle Island

Beautiful Coastline

I finally arrived in Daxi (大溪) where I stopped for a water break and one final picture of Turtle Island (I know I took a lot but it was hard to let go). It was great to have reached Daxi (大溪) in good time (shortly after noon) and I was fairly optimistic of being able to make it to Shuangxi (雙溪) between 2:00 pm and 3:00 pm. I was severely mistaken.

Last View of Turtle Island

A Climb too Far

Yilan First Highway (宜1)

I started to head onto the Yilan First Highway (宜1) in Daxi (大溪). The highway starts at the 10 km marker and I thought the climb up the mountain would end after 10 km. I was wrong! As you start on the Yilan First Highway (宜1) you cross the East coast railway line before heading up the first of many amazing switchbacks that took me higher and higher and higher.

Not the Smartest Place to Take a Picture

Once I crossed the railway tracks in Daxi (大溪) the climb started for real. It was soon apparent that this ascent was going to be a tough one and my muscles finally started to feel the combined effects of cycling up two mountains earlier in the morning. I was soon wasted (probably at around the 4 km marker). Of course, since the mountainside was steep, there were a lot of switchbacks (as mentioned above) to take us to the top. It was tough all the way up.

Wicked Switchbacks on the Yilan First Highway (宜1)

As I got higher on the mountain the views of Daxi (大溪) and the ocean from the road were impressive. Although I was hurting a lot going up, the slowness of the ride once again gave me time to appreciate these magnificent views.

Views of Daxi (大溪) from Yilan First Highway (宜1)

Going up the mountain also threw up some amazing views of the incredible vegetation on the mountain. The evergreen vegetation is always brilliant and is always a feature of my rides and photography.

Stunning Vegetation on the Mountains from Yilan First Highway (宜1)

It was an incredibly hot day and on the lower reaches of the mountain there was little respite from the sun and heat. I stopped often for water and was concerned about my ability to get to the top of this hill. My legs were hurting a lot at this stage and I was starting to think about walking but at the end I took more breaks and rode all the way up. On one of my breaks I looked up and saw this brilliant blue sky.

Blue, blue Sky

As mentioned I started to take a lot more breaks on the ride up. At around the 8 km marker I came across a small shrine with a place to burn paper money. It had shade. I rode there, stopped and sat on the floor, stretched my muscles and drank some water. I sat there way too long. I massaged my legs and tried to revive myself as best I could.

Place to Rest

I rested way too long at this point and I was getting concerned now about how much longer I could ride and I was seriously considering heading down the mountain, back to Road 2 and going home from Fulong (福隆) but I decided to stick with it as I knew there were only 2 km left on this part of the climb. But I knew in myself that I was in bad shape and that the ride home was going to be a tough one as I knew that even when when I got to the bottom of this mountain, there were still a few more climbs I would have to get over. Regardless I decided to take each kilometer at a time and see how far I could go. I knew I had to get home that night on my own steam and that there really was no other option. I finally left my resting place after 20 minutes and managed to to reach the end of the Yilan First Highway (宜1) and start to ride on the the ups and downs at the top of the mountain.

At the end of Yilan First Highway (宜1)

After reaching the end of the Yilan First Highway (宜1) I started to press on acutely aware of the time. In the beginning the road was fairly flat but after a while it did start to go up and down. I was feeling alright on the flats, but the fire in my legs reignited on even the smallest incline. It was hard but I persisted in trying to go as fast as I could. It was painful but I grinned and accepted it as par for the course. As I rode further along the road, I came across this really strange temple that had plastic windmills strung all over the place. It was one of the more interesting temples I have seen. I thought the windmills might serve the same function as the Tibetan prayer flags i.e. carrying prayers to heaven, but I am not sure that is true.

Strange Temple with Plastic Windmills

Although I was exhausted, I was still able to appreciate the natural beauty at the top of this mountain. The vegetation in parts was different to what I had seen before. I liked the diversity.

Different Vegetation on the Road

Of course, since it is Taiwan, there was a river running across the top of the mountain that was beautiful too.

River at the top of the Mountain

Further along the road there was an elaborate temple gate, which is also a common sight here. But for a lot of the time now I was riding next to a beautiful river. Also, now that I was at a higher altitude, it was cooler than it had been at sea level and on the climb out of Daxi (大溪).

Temple Gate on the Side of the Road

Mountain River

I carried along on the road for a little bit and came across this beautiful scenic area next to the river. It was beautiful. It was a good place to stop, rest and take a break and I was happy to be able to rest in such a beautiful part of the mountain. I also met some friendly people there who were amazed to know that I had come from Taipei and was trying to get back on the same day.

Resting at a Scenic Area

Scenic River Area

Reflection in the river

I left the scenic area and started to head for Shuangxi (雙溪) after another 20 minute rest. I was told that although there were some uphills, it was mostly down from here. I tried to use that to encourage myself. Just before getting to the top of the ridge that overlooked the ocean again, I hit another uphill that wasn't particularly tough but, since I was exhausted and my legs already finished, struggled to fight my way up. At this point I was also starving since, apart from two bananas, I had not eaten anything since breakfast and it was already 3:20 pm. After getting up the last of these climbs with tremendous difficulty and a lot of pain, I finally reached a level contour and had some great views of the surrounding areas.

View from the top of the Mountain

From this point on it was downhill all the way into Shuangxi (雙溪). Of course there were as many switchbacks on the way down on this side of the mountain as there were going up from Daxi (大溪). But it was downhill. I just coasted to give my legs a chance to rest. It was necessary. I finally got down to Shuangxi (雙溪), found the 7-11 and started to guzzle food and water. I was hungry and I think the lack of fuel was a big part of the problem. I was happy to be there but when I checked the time, it was already 4:00 pm and I was still a long way from home.

Racing into the Night on Road 106

Sunset on Road 106

After a 30 minute break in the 7-11 in Shuangxi (雙溪), I had to push on. I got back on the bike and found the road from Shuangxi (雙溪) that leads onto Road 2丙. The road runs next to the river which is quite beautiful and I managed to stay focus on this part of the road.

River from Shuangxi (雙溪)

After joining Road 2丙 I started the "long" 40 km ride home. Road 2丙 starts as a flat road but it soon starts to go up and up and up. The first climb is not steep but after trying to ride up for a bit my legs just wouldn't work. I got off the bike and started to push up the mountain. I walked the bike all the way up to the tunnel. When I got to the tunnel I got back on the bike and rode through the tunnel with more agony. At the end of the tunnel there is a short downhill into Shifen (十分). Once into Shifen (十分) I turned left onto Road 106 and started to head towards Pingxi (平溪). By this time my legs were on fire and I started to really struggle. I managed to get up the short uphill that leads into Pingxi (平溪) but by now I was going very slowly. I was in pain and the daylight was starting to fade. I shot through Pingxi (平溪) but was definitely hurting. I finally got to Jingtong (菁桐) at around 6:00 pm, 28 km from home, but I knew I needed to stop and rest.

I found a small restaurant that was serving ice cold jelly drinks and I gulped down two of them. The proprietor, Mr. Yeh, was absolutely amazing. He invited me to stretch my legs out on his chairs and even gave me a cup of juice for free. After 10 minutes when I tried to leave he insisted I stay and rest longer. It was great advice and I took it.

The Friendly Mr Yeh in Jingtong (菁桐)

After 20 minutes of resting in Jingtong (菁桐) I had to go. I left there at 6:20 pm. There is a small uphill outside Jingtong (菁桐) which I managed to crawl up on the bike. At the end of the uphill I managed to race all the way home without stopping on Road 106. The light was fading. I looked down the Road 106 and the sun was dropping below the mountains. When I arrived in Shenkeng (深坑). I blasted through Shenkeng (深坑) and headed for home. I finally made it home at around 8:15 pm in a terrible condition. My legs and whole body was sore, I was covered in sweat but I was happy to be home. I was happy to be back after 14.5 hours on the road. It was a hard ride, but it was done!

Final Thoughts

This was definitely one of my toughest rides to date. My Garmin died so I estimate the total distance covered was around 165 km and about 2,100 m of climbing. It took me an incredible 14.5 hours. I regard this ride as a failure and I will do it again and finish it within 12 hours.

Also, this was definitely a very emotional ride. When I was heading down the mountain from the tunnel on Road 2丙 into Shifen (十分) I started to have a lot of dark and negative thoughts about myself and my life. I was even tempted to stop the bike, get off, and throw it over the mountain. I think I was so disappointed by the failure of not being able to finish the ride in a decent time. But somewhere deep inside I also knew that a lot of this was coming out of sheer exhaustion and desperation for the pain to end. I managed to push those thoughts out of my mind and keep focused on the next 10 m in front of me. Also, stopping in Jingtong (菁桐) and chatting with the jovial Mr. Yeh helped raised my spirits too.

After I got home, showered and ate I sat down and thought about the experience. Yes, I was disappointed that I couldn't get it done in a decent time, yes I was disappointed that I wasn't as fit and strong as I thought I was but, on the positive side, 165 km is still a heck of a distance and this was the first time I climbed over 2,000 m in a day. But, for me, the biggest positive of all, that despite the difficulties, the pain and the self doubt, I managed to push myself through it and, even though I walked a bit, I still got to the end under my own steam. So yes, it was bloody tough, but I did it.

I am going to do this ride again within the next year, but next time I am going to OWN IT.

Cycling to the Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫) - 116 km

2013-07-01T09:49:00.001+08:00

The Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫) (Wikipedia page) is located in Taoyuan (桃園) and I was told is a decent destination for a day's ride. I have never been there before so when I was recently invited by a Church friend, Ming, to ride with him and another mate, David, to the Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫), I agreed. Ming had previously invited me to ride there with him but we could never really find a compatible time. Ming and David typically ride a "straight-line" there and back route but I dislike those and prefer riding in loops so I can explore more. I suggested a route I had seen on Strava. Happily they agreed. The route proved to be an awesome adventure with a few decent climbs and a prolonged ride next to the reservoir. It was a great day out and riding around the reservoir is certainly a great thing to do and should be a part of anyone's riding itinerary in Northern Taiwan.

Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫).

The Route

We met up at the Gongguan (公館) Bike Rental area and rode to Xindian (新店) along the river, exiting just before Road 110. From there we followed Road 110 all the way to Sanxia (三峽). From there we connected with Road 3 and followed that until we hit the Road 7-1 (7之) intersection to Daxi (大溪). We followed Road 7-1 (7之) to the end and then turned right onto Road 7. From there we turned onto the Tao-63 (桃63) which would take us next to the Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫) until we reached the West side. From there we dropped onto Road 4 and followed it for a few kilometers until we found the riverside path next to the Dahan River (大漢溪) in Taoyuan (桃園), and except for one small detour through Yingge (鶯歌), we followed the path along the river all the way back to Gongguan (公館).

A Normal Beginning

Me, Ming and David meeting in Gongguan (公館)

Ming, David and myself met up at the Gongguan (公館) Bike Rental area at 7:30 am. Little did I expect the trip to take 12 hours. I think it was a bit long but we took lots of breaks, enjoyed the scenery and took a lot of pictures. When we arrived in Gongguan (公館), the sun was already out and the weather report suggested the average temperature through the day would be 37°C. Hydration would definitely become the day's watchword.

After some very brief greetings and introductions (it was the first time I was meeting David) in Gongguan (公館) we jumped on our bikes and headed for Xindian (新店) along the North side of the river bank. The initial ride to Xindian (新店) was simple enough and something I have done countless times before.

View from our Breakfast Shop in Xindian (新店)

We got there very quickly and stopped at a breakfast shop just before Road 110 to catch a quick bite to eat and chat about the route. Ming and David have ridden to the Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫) many times before, but normally in a straight line i.e. there and back the same way. We discussed it and eventually it was decided to do a loop that I had seen on Strava. It would require a little more climbing but also give us the chance to ride next to the reservoir. David and Ming were both keen as the route would take us along a new road.

Breakfast in Xindian (新店)

Road 110 - From Hell to Heaven and Back Again

Road 110 to Sanxia (三峽) - Bridge over the Xindian (新店) river

After finishing breakfast it was time to head down Road 110 from Xindian (新店) and make for Sanxia (三峽). The first part of Road 110 is a nightmare, especially in rush hour traffic. Buses, trucks, scooter and cars all jockey for position. Buses were coming past us with only centimeters between our handlebars and them. It wasn't a pleasant experience and I was soon very doubtful about this trip thinking that if most of the roads were like this it would be a disaster. The road in the beginning was awful and it could only improve!

David on Road 110 to Sanxia (三峽) - Fighting Buses and Trucks

As we moved further along Road 110, the traffic did clear up a bit and it became easier to ride on the road. I started feeling a little less threatened but certainly, given another opportunity to ride to the Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫), I will figure out a way to skip this part of the road. It wasn't pleasant. Even though the traffic did thin out quite a bit, the buses were still ever present for the first 6 km along the 110.

Ming and David on Road 110 to Sanxia (三峽)

Ming on Road 110 to Sanxia (三峽)

After the first few kilometers (I think about 6 km or so, the road completely cleared up and we were riding next to some of the nice vegetation that Taiwan is famous for and that I have grown to love. Although the views being thrown up were not the best views in Northern Taiwan (I have seen better), it seemed like we had arrived in heaven after the terrible traffic we had just fought our way through. The best part was the shady spots under the trees that we could ride through and reduce the effects of the burning sun.

Road 110 to Sanxia (三峽) Improves

After a short while Road 110 snakes upwards for about 2 km. The gradient isn't terribly steep and it is a good little warm up for what was to come. It was nice to stretch the legs on the uphill. The road improved a great deal going uphill: much less traffic and much more shade. I really appreciated the shady spots in the road that provided brilliant protection. I don't mind riding in the sunshine (I do most times I go out) but it is great when there is some respite from the burning sun. In the picture below you can also see some of the brilliant views of the mountains in the background.

Road 110 to Sanxia (三峽) Snakes Up

After getting over the top of the little hill on Road 110, we started our descent into Sanxia (三峽). On the way down we passed a few motorcyclists all dressed up for a day's riding. We normally encounter a lot of motorcyclists on Road 9 to Pingling (坪林). Although we did not see as many bikers as we do on Road 9, we did see a few hard core bikers on Road 110. At one point, a group of about 10 bikers passed us on the road. They made an impressive noise.

Bikers on Road 110 to Sanxia (三峽)

As mentioned earlier, in the beginning Road 110 to Sanxia (三峽) is a nightmare with buses, cars, trucks and motorcycles clogging the road and competing for space. Once you get further along Road 110, the road becomes nearly desolate and you are hemmed in by the surrounding vegetation. It makes it seem almost heavenly compared to what we had just been through.

Beautiful Part of Road 110 to Sanxia (三峽)

Dropping further down Road 110 we passed an area of dense vegetation with plants and trees endemic to most of Northern Taiwan. It made for a beautiful backdrop and in the middle of the bush was a small temple. A small river flowed through the valley making a most quintessential country scene. It was a beautiful place to be riding and I was amazed at how the road changed from being a nightmare at the beginning to being almost heavenly at this point.

Temple in the Hills on Road 110 to Sanxia (三峽)

River in the Valley next to Road 110

We dropped further down Road 110 to Sanxia (三峽) and came to this Pagoda in Dacheng (大城) which is a regular resting spot for Ming and David. It has a good little view and it is cool. Because I was delayed taking pictures on the way down, they had a much longer rest than me. But it was OK. It was nice to sit there and relax in the coolness of the Pagoda. I suggested to them that if we ever ride this way again, this is where we should have breakfast. It would ensure that we got some real miles under the wheels before we had our first meaningful break.

David and Ming Resting in the Pagoda in Dacheng (大城)

David and Me Resting in a Pagoda in Dacheng (大城) on Road 110

Me Resting in a Pagoda in Dacheng (大城) on Road 110

After a 10 minute break we followed Road 110 all the way into Sanxia (三峽) where we once again got thrown into one of Taiwan's industrial backwaters with busy traffic, trucks and buses. Although, it should be said that at this point the traffic had thinned out quite a bit so it wasn't quite as harrowing as when we started. Arriving in Sanxia (三峽) also meant that the first milestone of the day had been achieved and the next goal would be Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫). We turned from Road 110 onto Road 3 into Sanxia (三峽) and were soon on our way to the reservoir.

Quickly Through Sanxia (三峽)

Road 3 to Daxi (大溪 ) - Arriving in Sanxia (三峽)

We turned left from Road 110 onto Road 3 to Daxi (大溪) and quickly arrived in the center of Sanxia (三峽). We figured out the route to Daxi (大溪) but as it turned out we would not need to go there like we originally thought. We would be able to get onto Road 7-1 (7之) directly from Road 3 and start climbing into the mountains. As soon as we turned left onto Road 3, we crossed over a small river and were quickly into the center of Sanxia (三峽). Once in the center of Sanxia (三峽), we turned left and followed the signs to Daxi (大溪).

River in Sanxia (三峽)

Middle of Sanxia (三峽)

We started to cycle out of Sanxia (三峽) fairly quickly but we did get stuck at a couple of traffic lights on the way out. Traffic lights are irritating and a great reason not to ride in the cities and towns. But soon we crossed the Sanxia (三峽) river and were well on our way out of the town and heading into the mountains.

Stuck at a Traffic Light in Sanxia (三峽)

The Sanxia (三峽) River

We glided through Sanxia (三峽) on Road 3 until we found an intersection for Road 7-1 (7之) and Road 3. We stopped there to take a short rest at the Hi-Life and prepared to head down Road 7-1 (7之) on a 14.5 km ride that would take us into Daxi (大溪) Township.

Road 7-1 (7之) - The Climb

David and Ming Taking a Break at the Hi-Life

After a 20 minute rest it was time to get going on our bikes and to start the 14.5 km journey over the only significant mountain on the whole trip. The climb was a little over 300 m and the gradient not too steep. But we did run into some difficulties on the way up and went up way more slowly than we should have. However this gave us plenty of time to enjoy the view and to take plenty of pictures.

Road 3 & Road 7-1 (7之) Intersection

Almost as soon as you hit Road 7-1 (7之) to Daxi (大溪) Township you come across these amazing views of the surrounding mountains and countryside. It is very beautiful. The picture below was the first of many views that we saw going up the mountain.

First View from the Road 7-1 (7之)

Shortly after arriving on Road 7-1 (7之) I came across the sign below which clearly says no graders allowed. It is the first time I can recall ever having seen this sign anywhere. It is a good thing! Too often in Taiwan we see graders randomly digging up stuff. This is preventative and will HOPEFULLY help to preserve this part of Taiwan.

No Graders Allowed

Road 7-1 (7之), while not the most beautiful road I have ridden on in Taiwan, has some great views and, if riding to the Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫), is well worth doing. Almost as soon as you get on Road 7-1 (7之) the views of the country side open and on one side you have a wall of vegetation and on the other side of the road a small river valley that makes it a beautiful experience.

Beautiful River View on Road 7-1 (7之)

Although the river valley on Road 7-1 (7之) is not as beautiful as what I saw when riding in the Mountains of Wulai (烏來), the views are still beautiful and, given the alternative of riding on a bigger road, this was by far the preferable option. The river gorge extends most of the way up the mountain and so you are always within reach of it. I personally find riding next to rivers very relaxing and always enjoy the experience.

River next to Road 7-1 (7之)

In the beginning Road 7-1 (7之) is an undulating road. The beginning is easy and not terribly steep at all. We made good, steady progress along the road and continued to enjoy the scenery. After a few kilometers, however, the gradient did increase and there were no more downhills until the 12 km marker. When we started to climb we took a few more rests and had the opportunity to enjoy the scenery a little more.

David and Ming Making Progress on Road 7-1 (7之)

We started to climb the 300 m mountain at a gentle pace. It was a very hot day but just pushing slowly down on the pedals and taking our time going up ensured that we made slow but steady progress. For myself I found the ride to be pleasant and the (mostly) gentle gradients easy enough to power up. I have been doing a lot of mountain riding lately so I think my legs are getting stronger and my cardiovascular fitness has improved a lot so moving up the inclines on Road 7-1 (7之) was easier than I thought it would be. David is a fit guy and he was also doing pretty well on the slopes. The third in our party, Ming, is new to riding up mountains so I tried to maintain a slower pace so we could go up the mountain together, and all the time we were riding on Road 7-1 (7之), the river was next to us.

River next to Road 7-1 (7之)

Even though we were riding at a slower pace, it was still hot work out there so taking a few water breaks and grabbing a rest here and there was necessary. We took short breaks fairly regularly and to be fair, in the beginning of the ride, Ming and David would go ahead of me and would have to wait since I would stop and (as you can see) take a lot of pictures. Our first stop on Road 7-1 (7之) was under a bunch of bamboo trees that provided some brilliantly cool shade. As you can see from the second picture below, it was a clear blue sky and a very hot day. This also marked the beginning of the biggest part of the climb.

Resting on Road 7-1 (7之)

Under a Bamboo Sky

Shortly after moving on from our rest position, we crossed into Taoyuan (桃園) County. There wasn't anything special to demarcate the border, just a small sign.

Welcome to Taoyuan (桃園) County

Even though we continued to go up, the river was still mostly running next to us on the left hand side. Eventually we did part ways from the river, but I cannot recall at what part. Also, if we looked out over the left side of the road, there were beautiful mountain views most of the way up the mountain. The mountains were covered with the typical lush, green vegetation that is endemic to Taiwan and makes for amazing views. Looking out the surrounding greenery is relaxing and something I never get tired of. Even though the gradient of the hill increased slowly, the spectacular views helped motivate me to keep on hitting the pedals. It was brilliant to be riding up another of these beautiful hills in Taiwan.

A River Follows the Road

Beautiful Mountain Views

Lush Green Vegetation Next to Road 7-1 (7之)

Beautiful Views from Road 7-1 (7之)

Stunning Views from Road 7-1 (7之)

As I mentioned earlier, the gradient progressively increased, and although it never became very steep, it still slowed us down a bit and we had to start working a little harder to get to the top of the hill. The road itself was in great condition (I cannot recall an open road in Taiwan in bad condition) which made for pleasant riding. Also, as you can see from the pictures below, we were often hemmed in by more vegetation and it helped to keep us cool. We continued to press forward up the hill even as it got a little more difficult. It was great though to feel the burn in the thighs and know that the heart was pumping.

Ming Rides up Road 7-1 (7之)

Looking Up Road 7-1 (7之)

Looking Down Road 7-1 (7之)

Since it was a hot day, we did take a couple of breaks here and there, drank lots of water and ensured our muscles were properly rested before we tried to ride too far or push too hard. Also, stopping and resting gave us the time and space to appreciate our surroundings and enjoy the views. I often think if people ride too fast they miss out on the best part of the journey: enjoying the view. I am sure if I had a lighter bike, proper riding togs and didn't ride with a pannier I could be much quicker, but I am not there for speed, I am there to enjoy the scenery and experience the outdoors in Taiwan.

David and Ming Resting on Road 7-1 (7之)

Ming Catching 40 winks on Road 7-1 (7之)

After a while we reached the top of Road 7-1 (7之) and were looking forward to the promise of a downhill. The top is at the 12 km marker and I think the downhill was only about 2.5 km, but it was still great to rest the legs and cruise all the way down to the Hi-Life on the other side of Road 7-1 (7之)

At the top of Road 7-1 (7之)

The next time we stopped was at the Hi-Life at the intersection between Road 7 and Road 7-1 (7之). Road 7 is the start of the Northern Cross Island Highway and is a road I want to do sometime soon. I have heard great things about this route. From the Road 7 and Road 7-1 (7之) intersection the trip to Ilan I believe it is around 105 km. At this point I think we had ridden about 48 km so the total trip from home to Ilan on this route would be around 160 km (or maybe a little more). Anyway, now I know a great way to get to the Highway so I will probably be riding it soon.

Road 7 to Ilan

Hi-Life at the Road 7 and Road 7-1 (7之) Intersection

We took a well earned rest at the Hi-Life at the Road 7 and Road 7-1 (7之) Intersection. We ate a banana each and drank a lot of water. We stood inside the air-conditioned shop to hide away from the heat and to cool off. All three of us were sweating up a storm and needed to take a decent rest. However, after 15 minutes or so, it was time to head off again. We soon hopped back on our bikes and turned right onto Road 7.

Road 7 to Daxi (大溪)

View from Road 7

We rode about 5 km or 6 km on Road 7 until we hit the first traffic light where we turned left and dropped onto the Tao-63 (桃63) (Hua De Road) and headed for the final 2 km to Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫).

Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫)

We finally arrived at the Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫). The view of the reservoir was stunning. Of course it was a hazy because of the heat and moisture but it was still an incredible sight. We were all really happy to have arrived but I think, since it was the first time for me to ride there, I was the most excited.

Ming and David at Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫)

Ming and Me at Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫)

After enjoying the view at the start of the reservoir we started the 10 km ride along the undulating Tao-63 (桃63) that runs next to the river. The Tao-63 (桃63) next to the reservoir is beautiful. You are either surrounded by amazing vegetation or have tremendous views of the water. The reservoir itself is located in a basin that is surrounded by mountains so the views are amazing.

Boat on the Reservoir

The Stunning the Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫)

Partly because of the time we arrived and also because of the coolness of the water and the shade that covers the Tao-63 (桃63), this part of the ride was significantly cooler than what we had just experienced and was very pleasant. It was wonderful to be riding next to the lake and in the trees that cover the lake side road. As you can see from the pictures below, the Tao-63 (桃63) is a beautiful road (even without the vistas of the reservoir) and comes highly recommended by me. The Tao-63 (桃63) is an undulating road with some ups and downs all the way to the end, but there is nothing too excessive and these ups and downs are easily negotiated by anyone of average riding ability. I didn't find any of the uphills particularly challenging and enjoyed all the downhills. The 10 km next to the lake is well worth the effort!

The Tao-63 (桃63) next to Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫)

Shortly after we started riding next to the lake on the Tao-63 (桃63), we came across an advert with a bunch of windmills on the side, it was kind of cute so I stopped to take a picture. I guess that was the effect the advertisers were hoping for. The plastic windmills certainly got my attention.

Plastic Windmills on the Tao-63 (桃63)

Riding next to the lake on the Tao-63 (桃63)also threw up some great views of the reservoir (see the picture at the top of this post) and also of the surrounding country side. It was just such an amazing place to be! We came across (what I later found out) was an old decrepit sand filter (see picture below). I would never have guessed. I took the picture below and showed it to the owner of the restaurant where we had lunch and she said that this device filtered sand out of the water and perhaps help prevent silt build up in the reservoir. Although I am not sure that this description is correct (and I am open to correction), it seemed like a plausible explanation for the device.

Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫) Sand Filter

Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫) Surroundings

Without a doubt, the most captivating views on the Tao-63 (桃63) were definitely of the Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫) and the rivers that flow into the lake. It is truly beautiful. I wish we had gotten there earlier now so we could have spent more time riding around the lake and explore further, but because we only arrived at the Tao-63 (桃63) at around 2:00 pm we were hard pressed for time so we needed to move more quickly than I would have liked. It was however, a great place to be riding and I will make an effort to go back.

Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫)

River into Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫)

After riding for maybe an hour we arrived on the West-side of the the Tao-63 (桃63) and at the Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫) dam wall. The views from the dam wall of the reservoir are stunning and also the views of the plains below are very impressive. When David and Ming normally ride to the reservoir, this is where they usually end up and leave from. It was the first time for either of them to ride next to the reservoir on the Tao-63 (桃63) and they both said they liked it a lot. I am happy we did that too. We got to enjoy riding next to the lake and then we got to enjoy the scenery at the dam wall itself and I think this route is the better option than just riding to the dam wall and back again.

View of Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫) from the Dam Wall

View from Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫) Dam Wall

Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫) Dam Wall

Of course there is the mandatory statue of Chiang Kai Shek overlooking the dam and I just had to take a picture of that too.

Chiang Kai Shek Statue

We arrived at the Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫) dam wall at around 3:00 pm. At the wall there are a string of restaurants with beautiful views of the wall and the surrounding area. We quickly chose a restaurant and David ordered a massive lunch for three people. To be honest, even though I hadn't eaten anything since breakfast (except for a banana), I wasn't particularly hungry. I decided to jump in though and eat something to prevent me from crashing on the ride home. After lunch I was also tempted into an ice-cream (which is a strict no-no on my new eating lifestyle), which I enjoyed immensely.

David and Ming at Lunch

Me and my Ice Cream

Homeward Bound

We left the dam after lunch at around 3:40 pm and started the "long" trek back. It would be much quicker than getting there because it was mosty down-hill or flat. After lunch we got back onto the Tao-63 (桃63) and raced down a steep 2.0 km hill (where I hit my top speed for the day of 54 km/h) and got onto Road 4 for Taoyuan (桃園)

The End of Tao-63 (桃63)

We got onto Road 4 at around the 34 km marker and would ride along the Road for about 8 km before we came to a fancy bridge, where we would drop onto the river side path and ride more or less non-stop to Gongguan (公館).

Road 4

Road 4 was a pretty easy ride: very flat, no hills and, for the most part, no trucks. We cruised quite quickly down the road and made good progress. Everyone I think felt energized by the long lunch break and the food we had just eaten. Along the road we passed some beautiful rice paddies (but not many). Still, the rice paddies are very common in Taiwan and make the countryside look beautiful

Rice Paddies on Road 4

Pretty soon we came to a bridge that crossed the Dahan River (大漢溪) in Taoyuan (桃園). We would pretty much follow the Dahan River (大漢溪) from here all the way into Taipei and onto the Xindian (新店) River.

Bridge over the Dahan River (大漢溪)

Rice Paddies Next to the Dahan River (大漢溪)

The Dahan River (大漢溪)

After crossing the Dahan River (大漢溪) we followed Road 4 for two more kilometers before we came to a beautiful bridge that was clearly built as a tourist attraction. We stopped here for a water break and also so that I could take a look at the bridge since it was my first time there. I also saw an aboriginal girl doing some modeling so of course I had to get my regulation snap.

Fancy Bridge over the Dahan River (大漢溪)

Aboriginal Model

We rested for about 15 minutes and then from there dropped onto the river side path next to the the Dahan River (大漢溪). I was pretty amazed to realize that we could ride from there to Taipei all next to the river (except for a small detour in Yingge (鶯歌)). The riverside path itself was, in the beginning, a combination of a cyclist-only path and a small country road for farmers to be able to drive on. Altogether it was a well kept road and pretty safe to ride on. In the beginning the road was a bit a rustic, but it was still a good place to be riding.

Riverside Path Next to the Dahan River (大漢溪)

The views along the riverside path were still stunning. I enjoyed riding there as it seemed quite natural (although I new just a few hundred meters to my left it was now very industrialized). The riverside was beautiful and still had a lot of greenery. We rode hard next to the river and picked up the pace quite a bit (thanks to David). I tucked in behind David and drafted him for long stretches at 30 km/h. It was a great cardio workout!

Views Next to the Dahan River (大漢溪)

Just before we arrived in Yingge (鶯歌) we stopped outside the sluice gates on the Dahan River (大漢溪). I never expected to see those. To be honest, I thought we would first have to ride through Sanxia (三峽) before we hit Yingge (鶯歌) but was happy to realize we were much further along when we passed the sluice gates and got into Yingge (鶯歌) itself. From there, we jumped back onto the river side path (which I have ridden a few times before) and headed for home.

Sluice Gates Oustide Yingge (鶯歌) on the Dahan River (大漢溪)

The riverside path from Yingge (鶯歌) is well maintained, but on a late Friday afternoon it certainly gets busier. I decided to jump behind David and draft him for a while, this way I could maintain 30 km/h more easily and get the workout I was craving. David is a fast rider and I think he could go faster, but happily he didn't!

Riverside Path from Yingge (鶯歌)

The views from the riverside path from Yingge (鶯歌) are still spectacular with beautiful lush green vegetation on the right side and the river valley extending before you. Of course you can see many more buildings in the background but it is still a good place to see some nice greenery.

Views from the Dahan River (大漢溪) Riverside Path

After blasting along the riverside path for a while we finally came to the bridge where we would cross over to the other side and head for Gongguan (公館). We stopped there for a 10 minute water break and that is where I realized my camera battery was finished. We looked over the river and saw the massive highway on the other side of the river basin. It was an impressive view but not the view that inspires and brings peace to the soul.

Looking over the Dahan River (大漢溪)

We crossed the river quickly and headed for Gongguan (公館). Up ahead were the big mountains that frame the Northern part of the Island and when we were heading for home I looked over my shoulder and saw the beautiful sunset and the fading light. When I looked up again at the mountains and the dying sun I realized that I was sad the ride was ending and there was a longing for a new road, a new ride, a new adventure. It is something I feel every time I head for home and I cannot wait for the next ride.

We very quickly arrived back in Gongguan (公館) at around 6:40 pm. It had taken us three hours to get home compared to the 7.5 hours it took to get to the reservoir.. I couldn't believe how fast we had gotten back. It was a good effort by everyone. We took our leave of one another and will probably ride together again soon on new roads and new adventures.

Final Thoughts

This was the first time I have ridden on a long ride with a group of people ever. I normally ride alone. It took some getting used to. I think though we need to learn how to stick together and support each other more as a team. We should always stay with the trailing cyclist, especially in more remote parts of the ride. If something happens to the guy at the back and no one is there to help him, he will be stuck. It was a good experience but I think I need to learn more about riding in groups. It was fun though and I am more open to riding with other people now than before this trip.

As for the route, except for the first part of Road 110, the route was a good one. I think if I can avoid the first part of Road 110 this ride would be worth repeating. Also, if you are a cyclist in Northern Taiwan riding to the Shihmen Reservoir (石門水庫) should be on your cycling itinerary. I am glad I did it and will probably do it again in the next year.

It was a good day out. It tool longer than I thought it would but it was a lot of fun. I will be out on the bike again soon and I am looking forward to new adventures and new roads. See you next time somewhere out there on the bike!

Another Sunset

2013-06-23T21:25:00.000+08:00

I previously posted a picture of a Beautiful Sunset in Taipei. On Friday I saw the sun going down again and it was so beautiful. I charged onto the rooftop of my apartment building to take a picture. The beautiful sunset is shown below. Absolutely stunning!

Cycling the Pingling (坪林) Lasso - 109 km

2013-06-21T10:28:00.003+08:00

This was the ride I meant to do when I went on my ride to nowhere. I didn't quite do the planned route, but I still did what I set out to achieve, four big climbs in and around the mountains of Pingling (坪林). The last climb nearly destroyed me and I had to walk the final 2 km up the mountain, but it was still a great day out on the bike riding through the mountains, hills and tea fields of Pingling (坪林). I call it the Pingling Lasso because of the shape of the route as reflected in the map below. The scenery up there is stunning and I was so happy to be out there, in the sun, breathing the fresh air, sweating and working hard. It was a great ride. If you like cycling mountains, this is certainly a ride you should consider. You won't regret it! You can modify the ride to your liking, but certainly the ride to Pingling (坪林) through the tea fields is well worth the effort (even if a little tough).

On a Quintessential Chinese Screen - Temple Gate, Tea and Bicycle

The Route

The first part of the ride to Pingxi (平溪) is a repeat of the first part of my ride to nowhere. Once in Pingxi (平溪) I turned left on Road 106 and followed it to the North 43 (北43) road, which I followed until some how I landed up on the North 42 (北42) Road, which took me to Pingling (坪林). Once I got to Pingling (坪林) I got onto Road 9 that goes into Xindian (新店).I followed Road 9 to the top. When I arrived at North 47 (北47) Road I freewheeled all the way to Shiding (石碇) and onto Road 106-1 (106之) and straight onto Road 106. I followed Road 106 until I reached the North 33 (北33) Road. I turned left onto the North 33 (北33) Road and followed it all the way up the mountain. When I got to the end I turned left and headed down the mountain until I got into Nangang. I then headed for home. The map is shown below (Strava Map). All in all it was about 109 km and 1,750 m of climbing. A brilliant, but tough ride.

The Ride to Pingxi (平溪)

Resting on the North 31 (北31) Road to Pingxi (平溪).

The first part of the trip, riding to to Pingxi (平溪) was uneventful. This part of the trip I mostly covered in my earlier post on my ride to nowhere. After leaving home I quickly charged through the early morning rush hour traffic to get to North 31 (北31). It took about an hour to get there, but once there I was soon climbing up the mountain. I took a break near the bottom of the mountain thinking, after a short rest, I would be able to get all the way up the mountain without taking any further breaks. That was a false hope! I guess I just forgot how steep the climb up the North 31 (北31). Additionally, today was much hotter compared to my previous ride up the mountain and the heat definitely had an energy sapping effect. Rest periods are not all that bad, they allow you to stop, breathe and enjoy your beautiful surroundings!

Guardian on the North 31 (北31) to Pingxi (平溪)

It was good to finally ride on a "good weather" day, i.e. no rain, and I thought I would be able to get some great pictures of the great views in the valley from the top of the mountain. Unfortunately there was simply too much haze and the pictures that I took of the vistas this early in the morning didn't come out. Still, it was great to be riding on almost deserted roads, in among the trees, immersed in the sound of the cicada choir and listening to the eerie echoing creek of some of the birds at higher altitudes. It was a beautiful day to ride and the views on offer and the beautiful vegetation along the side of the road never disappoint.

View from the North 31 (北31) to Pingxi (平溪)

Although I was going slower than I initially thought I would, I soon arrived at the 11 km marker which indicates the top of the mountain and the start of the descent into Pingxi (平溪). Since it was a sunny day, there were no clouds on the mountain so the scenes on the top were slightly less dramatic than the last time I was up there. I only stopped once to take a picture of the switchbacks (see below). I had taken this picture before but just couldn't resist taking it again. The road down into Pingxi (平溪) is definitely very technical and, although it wasn't a wet road this time, I still took a lot of caution on my way down the road.

Switchbacks the North 31 (北31) to Pingxi (平溪)

After riding for 2.5 hours I finally made it down into Pingxi (平溪). At this stage I was hungry and thirsty so I stopped and had a quick bite to eat and some soy bean milk. I then spoke with the restaurant proprietor about how to get to Pingling (坪林). She was very helpful. She took out a map and clearly explained the route I should take. I was surprised that her directions were spot on and, mostly thanks to her, I never got lost the whole way to Pingling (坪林).

The Ride to Pingling (坪林)

The North 43 (北43) to Pingling (坪林)

I love Pingling (坪林). It is one of the beautiful towns in the North of Taiwan. It is nestled in a valley between mountains with a beautiful river running through the town. A short trip outside of Pingling (坪林) takes you to the Jingualiao River (金瓜寮溪) where people can swim and enjoy a walk in the forest. I used to ride to Pingling (坪林) every few weeks but this is the first time I have ridden there since I injured my knee. It has been a while and I was looking forward to riding back into this beautiful town. This time, however, I would be riding along the North 43 (北43) and then get onto the North 42 (北42) and follow this road into Pingling (坪林).

View from the North 42 (北42) to Pingling (坪林)

At the intersection of Road 106 and the North 43 (北43), there is a beautiful sign that indicates no buses are allowed on this road. BRILLIANT! One of my arch enemies on the road was forbidden from this trail and I was so happy about that. To my surprise, there was actually very little traffic along this road and I seldom met with any cars or vehicles until I got close to Pingling (坪林).

No Buses Allowed on the North 43 (北43) to Pingling (坪林)

The beginning of the North 43 (北43) is an easy, undulating road, with some nice flats and gentle uphills. You are soon riding next to, and over some streams and you are soon passing the low lying tea fields at the bottom of the mountain. The road feels more isolated than Road 106, and that is a good thing. The road itself is in pretty good condition (as all roads I ride on seem to be). Almost as soon as I got onto the road, I crossed this old, moss covered bridge and a gentle stream flowing through the valley.

Beautiful Bridge

Beautiful River in the Valley

Once on the North 43 (北43) you quickly start to pass the beautiful low lying tea plantations, and this was the real motivation for me to ride this road. Taiwan Tea is famous all over the world. Tea experts will tell you that some of the tea grown here is world class. I have to believe them as I am no expert, but these are some of the plantations the tea comes from, and they create pleasant and beautiful views.

Tea Fields on the North 43 (北43) road

After riding on the North 43 (北43) road for about 3 km, I came upon this traditional pavilion on the side of the road. I decided to stop there and have a drink of water. The Pavilion was already occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Huang who had come there all the way from Panchiao. They were having a picnic and enjoying the cool mountain air. They told me they had gone to South Africa (my home country) twice and were quite eager to chat. Mr. Huang also poured me a few cups of traditional tea. I was about to decline the offer but then thought I am in tea country so why not? It was good to sit there and chat with these two super friendly elderly Taiwanese people. They were very generous and even offered me water and snacks for the journey up the mountain. They also warned me that the mountain just went higher and higher and that Pingling (坪林) was still 20 km away.

Roadside Pavilion

Mr. Huang Pouring me Tea

After tea I took my leave from Mr. and Mrs. Huang and set off again on the North 43 (北43) and immediately started to pass some more low level tea plantations. Sadly, a little further down the road I came across a dead snake in the road. I always get sad when I see these beautiful reptiles as roadkill. They are such beautiful creatures and play an important part in our ecosystem. I didn't bother to identify this one but, if you are interested, you can check on the Snakes of Taiwan website.

Low lying Tea Plantations

Dead Snake

I carried on riding up the road and the road became even more isolated. I passed by a small stream and then the climbing really began.

Small Stream on the Road

Up until this point the road had been a few gentle undulations, but then the gradient of the inclines started to increase and the pain in the legs started to increase. Still, in the beginning, the road wasn't that bad and I was able to maintain a decent pace up the hills. Of course the views of the mountains above continued to be impressive and I really started to feel like I was the only one on the planet. Here the cicada choir never ceased to remind me where I was and the eerie echo of one of the indigenous birds could be heard again.

Beautiful Views on the Way Up

As I passed the first of many switchbacks I came into a part of the road that was partially covered by trees. Considering it was a super hot day with the sun out burning every part bit of exposed skin, this short interlude along this shady part of the road was welcome relief.

Welcome Shade

As I continued my slow pedal up the road, the gradient of the road and the switchbacks increased dramatically. At this point my legs really started to burn and I started to feel cramps in both legs. Considering I had not even made it to Pingling (坪林) yet I thought this would be a bad sign. I carried on riding through the cramps, but at the top of a particularly steep climb, I decided to take a break in the shade of a tree next to one of the more awesome bends in the road. It was a good break. I managed to rest, stretch out the cramps and enjoy the view. I was loving it up there.

Steep Climb

Amazing Switchback

After a 10 minute rest I got back on the bike and continued to pound the pedals. I was starting to get the energy back in the legs and I was happy to be moving up the mountain. Little did I realize that the worst of it was nearly over and that I was nearly at the top. But at this point I had found a second breath of air and was enjoying the climb up. Of course, all the while I was riding up the mountain I was riding next to some tea plantations and had tremendous views of the valley below.

Tea Plantations on the Mountain

I arrived at a contour which my altimeter told me was 645 meters above sea level. Happily, at this point, the road flattened out and followed the contour around the mountain, through the saddle of the mountain and back down the other side. The worst part of this climb was over and I was happily cruising on a level road enjoying the views and the cool breeze at the top of the mountain. When I looked back down into the valley, I could see part of the road that I had just come up, and let me assure you, I was mortified! I think if you had shown me that picture before the climb I might have backed out of going up. When I saw the road, the inclines and the switchbacks, I was happy that I had already arrived at the top.

View from the top of the North 43 (北43)

The point at which the descent into Pingling (坪林) begins is the border between Pingling (坪林) district and Pingxi (平溪) district. You can tell that this is the road less traveled as the signs welcoming travelers into either district are not well maintained. Still, the view from the top of the road, before the descent would be amazing. Unfortunately for me it was still hazy so I was unable to get any great pictures of the surrounding valleys and mountains. This was a good spot to stop, take a break, drink some water and enjoy the views. I knew when I got on my bike I would be screaming down the mountain at a crazy rate of knots and probably would not be able to enjoy the scenery as much as I should.

Sign for Pingxi (平溪) District

Welcome to Pingling (坪林)

Go Right to Pingxi (平溪), go left to Pingling (坪林)

Once I started heading down the mountain, I couldn't help but look at the amazing views into the valley next to me. The stunning views of tea plantations embedded in the bush on the mountains are beautiful. It is interesting to note that these tea plantations are small in comparison to those we saw in Sri Lanka. In Sri Lanka entire mountains had been cultivated but here only certain parts of the mountain had been cultivated and for the most part the indigenous plants left to grow wild. The views were spectacular.

Tea Plantation in the Forest

As I started to pick up speed I started to ride next to and between more and more plantations. It was so beautiful. I just got this tremendous smile on my face as I was happy and felt free. It is a special experience riding down these roads and I tried to soak up every ounce of pleasure and enjoyment that was possible as I knew it would soon be over. I should warn you however that at the top of this mountain there are no barriers on the side of the road so going down the road you have to be extra careful. If you miss a turn you will definitely be in for a long fall. Despite the danger, I thought the roads were well kept and fairly easy to ride on.

Surrounded by Tea

More Tea

As few kilometers from the top of the mountain I passed a temple. The temple had a viewing deck which seemed to be a popular place for cyclists to stop and rest. When I got there I saw a small group of about 10 cyclists taking it easy and having lunch. It was a good thing as I could get directions and make sure I was still on the right path.

Roadside Temple

The views and the scenery further down the mountain stay consistently beautiful. It was fun heading down the mountain and I loved the cool breeze that was cooling me down after all the hard work it took to get to the top. The roads themselves remained consistently beautiful and mostly surrounded by beautiful trees and flowers or tea plantations. Either way, the road was a beautiful one to be on.

Beautiful Road

As I approached the valley, I could finally see the river that ran through the bottom of the valley. This is the river that eventually runs into and through the town of Pingling (坪林). Also, at some point along this road I transferred from the North 43 (北43) to the North 42 (北42). I am not sure at which point this transition occurred, but I was happily headed in the right direction as it was well past lunch time and, since I had burned so many calories on the up ride, I really needed some nourishment.

Heading down the North 42 (北42)

Beautiful View from the North 42 (北42)

Before too long I had arrived at the bottom of the mountain. It was a brilliant ride down and I thought I would soon be in Pingling (坪林). Unfortunately there was still one small uphill I had to get over. As I started to ride up the hill both legs cramped badly and I was forced to get off the bike. I was now seriously concerned as this was the second time this had happened and either way I had to climb a mountain to get back home. It turned out to be alright. After a few stretches and some water the cramps faded and I managed to get back on the bike and continue. The last part of this road takes you under a big highway and suddenly, without much warning, you arrive in Pingling (坪林). I was happy to be there. I quickly found a tea shop where I could sit down, relax, eat and drink.

Lunch in Pingling (坪林)

Mr. Chen the Proprietor

Pingling (坪林) is famous for tea so naturally I would stop at a tea house for lunch. I stopped at the Dong Mu He Tea House which was founded in the Baoping Temple in 1893. I spoke with Mr. Chen who is the great, great, great grandson of the original founder of the tea house. He said the Tea House had moved from its original location 35 years ago and that business is mostly good. Of course I gulped down a few cups of ice tea and grabbed a bowl of vegetarian noodles. The ice cold tea was most welcome and the food much needed sustenance.

Enjoying my Tea

Lunch

Onward to Shihding (石碇)

Heading out of Pingling (坪林)

After chilling in the Tea House for 30 minutes, it was already 1:30 pm and it was time to head out. I still had two big mountains ahead that I had to climb. While at lunch I was starting to think that maybe I should just go to the top of Road 9 and then drop into Hsin Tien and go home. But I thought I would decide when I got to the top of Road 9. Road 9 has stunning views of the river valley. Words fail to describe the views but they are amazing and it is always a pleasure to ride up this road. You go slowly so you really get to enjoy the view and the surroundings. Unfortunately, the valley is on the left hand side so to get to the side to see the views you need to cross the road, and it is a very busy road, with trucks and buses and big ass motorcycles screaming up and down the mountain.

Views from Road 9

Views from Road 9

As I mentioned earlier, the biggest danger on this road are the trucks. As you are riding up the mountain, the trucks come within inches of the handle bars as they pass you. You know the trucks are coming as they are noisy and you can hear them from a long way off. Still, it is very disconcerting when they are getting so close to you. I think the truck drivers are experienced and used to driving up and down this road, but still it can be a little nerve wracking when they pass. The other irritant are the motorcycles screaming up and down the mountain. They destroy the peace of nature and they are dangerous as they go up and down really fast. But this is the price you have to pay if you want to ride out of Pingling (坪林) on Road 9

Trucks on Road 9

Motorcycle Rest Stop

Despite these distractions, the views of the valley below remained amazing and I continued to be careful when crossing the road to take pictures. It is too bad that there was no designated viewing area along this road. That would be the best solution and make it safer for people to enjoy the view of the spectacular river valley.

Beautiful River Valley outside Pingling (坪林)

I soon arrived at the border between Pingling (坪林) district and Shihding (石碇) district. I was exhausted at this stage and the temptation to drop down into Hsin Tien was getting stronger with each meter. At this point my stomach had started to cramp and I thought I had been in the sun too long. However I pushed back the decision and would only decide when I got to the top of Road 9.

Exhausted on Road 9

On the border of Pingling (坪林) and Shihding (石碇)

At this point exhaustion really set in and I was trying to figure out how much further to go to get to the top of the mountain (from my distant memories) but I realized that the worst was over and the gradient of the inclines became progressively gentle the further up the mountain. After a longer than normal water break I got back on the bike and started to pedal up the mountain slowly. I passed a statue of Buddha on the way up and once again the views of the river valley below opened up and helped motivate the mind, body and soul to keep on going.

Statue of Buddha

The Beautiful Road 9

Old House on the Road

Within 20 minutes I was at the top of Road 9 and my legs could relax. I started to feel better and started to look for some of the famous cycling rest stops at the top of Road 9. Still the incredible views from Road 9 were stunning and I continued to just use these amazing vistas as motivation to keep going.

Mountain View from Road 9

View of the River Valley from Road 9

One of the more famous cycling rest stops is "Coffee A Taste of Helen." I have been there many times before and decided to take a quick break there and get some refreshments. I ordered a delicious apple juice (which took 20 minutes to prepare?) and just enjoyed the view from the restaurant deck area. This is truly a coffee shop with a view! Of course there are other coffee shops there and I think next time I will visit Helen's neighbor as this time the service was too slow. However, the view was stunning.

Outside Coffee A Taste of Helen

View from Coffee A Taste of Helen

Helen's Neighbor

After 25 minutes of enjoying the views from the coffee shop it was time to decide whether I would continue on the original planned route or just stop and drop down into Hsin Tien. I thought I would do the originally planned route and drop down into Shihding (石碇). Back on the bike I headed along Road 9 until I found the North 47 (北47). From there it was a freewheel all the way down to Shihding (石碇) and onto the Road 106-1 (106之) and straight onto Road 106. At the intersection between Road 9 and the North 47 (北47) you are treated some amazing views of the valley again. Some of these vistas are irresistible and I just had to stop and take a picture.

View from Road 9

The North 47 (北47)

Beautiful Views on the North 47 (北47)

Heading down the North 47 (北47) I soon passed a temple and some small hamlets embedded in the mountains. I carried on freewheeling down the hill and was feeling really good. I passed through a small town with a river passing through it and rode under the shadow of the freeway high above my head. I was down the mountain within 20 minutes and I was soon gliding into Shihding (石碇) where I got back onto the Road 106-1 (106之) and then onto the Road 106. It was a great ride down and I enjoyed every moment of it.

Temple on the North 47 (北47)

Looking down North 47 (北47)

Mountain Hamlet on the North 47 (北47)

Small Town

Under the Highway

Back in Shihding (石碇)

To Nangang and Home

Onwared to Xizhi

After hitting Road 106 hard I quickly arrived at the intersection for the North 33 (北33). I turned left, went over the bridge and started the final climb to Xizhi (or so I thought). The bridge that takes you onto the North 33 (北33) crosses a small beautiful river. This is the river that you ride next to for a long way on the Road 106.

Beautiful River

I got onto the road and started moving up the fourth and final climb of the day. I was happy that I had decided to do it and was looking forward to slowly moving up the mountain and enjoying the view before the craziness of the rush hour traffic in the city. Once again the beautiful country side does not disappoint and some spectacular views are on offer from the North 33 (北33).

Views from the North 33 (北33)

It was at this point that I got into some difficulties. There was about 2.5 km left to climb up the mountain and my legs cramped up, I started to feel dizzy and nauseous. Worse still, my stomach started to cramp too. I jumped of the bike, drank some water and really wanted to just get out the sun. I figured I had been in the hot sun way too long and I was thinking this was a disaster and I would probably land up in hospital (happily I didn't). After taking a short break I got back on the bike and tried to pedal, but I couldn't!. I got back off, shrugged my shoulders and started walking. I figured if I pushed for 2.5 km I could be at the top in 30 minutes, and that was OK for me. I intermittently tried to ride up the hill when I could but it was mostly pushing up the last 2.5 km. Along the way I passed what must have been one of the loneliest Pavilions in Taiwan, and of course, the views continued to amaze.

Incredible View from the North 33 (北33)

Lonely Pavilion

When I had about 1 km to go, I ran into these road workers who were packing up for the day. They saw me struggling and gave me a bottle of water and a lot of encouragement to get up the mountain. Their leader assured me I only had 10 minutes to go before I got to the top of the mountain. I was happy to hear that. I was really looking forward to getting there. I felt stronger again and decided to try riding. I managed to get most of the way up from there on my bike.

Encouraging Road Workers

After that I suddenly arrived at the top the mountain and breathed a huge sigh of relief. The views of the valley from there were amazing. Especially the view of Taipei 101. I just wished there wasn't so much haze around as it was difficult to get a good picture of the iconic building. But the views of the surrounding countryside were also breath taking.

The Last Tea Plantation

Taipei 101

The Road I Came Up

At this point I was anxious to get home so I didn't spend too long at the top. I happily realized that I would be heading downhill for the rest of the way into Xizhi (although I actually landed up in Nangang). I jumped on the saddle and started my descent. It was a difficult one with many complicated switchbacks. However, at this point it was better to be going down than up, especially in my condition. I was still feeling dizzy and nauseous and was hoping I could focus enough to get down safetly.

The Way Down

Into the Valley I Rode

I was happily heading down the mountain and thought I would get onto the Road in Xizhi, however, somehow I landed on Academia road and came out right outside Academia Sinica. I was happy as it cut out 7 km of riding on heavily traffic roads. At this point it was already 5:30 pm and I had promised a mate of mine I would go watch a rugby match at Bounce at 6:00 pm. I now knew I could make it. Still feeling terrible I headed down Chunghsiao East Road until I got to Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall and finally arrived at the pub. I was wrecked but the super friendly staff at Bounce soon organized ice and refreshments and within 20 minutes I was feeling much better.

Outside Bounce

Final Thoughts

What a great ride. I highly recommend it! Yes it was tough. I was thinking it was four mountains and nearly 1,800 m of climbing on the day. I compared this to my ride over the Suhua highway and I realized that this was probably more difficult than that ride. I was happy I only needed to walk at the end. The best part of the ride are the uphills since you go much slower and can enjoy the scenery more. I will happily do this once again at some point but I just need to wait for my leg to get stronger. I think right now the issue is the weakness in my leg, but as that heals , rides like this will still present a challenge, but will be easier to deal with. I loved being out there in the sun and nature and cannot wait for my next ride out.

Ta-An Forest Park (大安森林公園)

2013-06-10T23:13:00.001+08:00

Ta-An Forest Park (大安森林公園) is probably the nicest park in Taipei. I have always been fortunate to live close to this beautiful park. However, now that the new MRT is nearly done, I fear on the weekends it will become even MORE overcrowded (if that is possible). Still, it is a great place to walk around and chill out in on the weekend. We have had many a good time there.

Saturday Lunch

2013-06-10T09:37:00.002+08:00

My niece and nephew came to visit Pudding on Saturday. They didn't want to go out and leave the cat so we prepared food by ourselves. This was what we came up with. Pretty healthy I think. Sashimi, tomatoes, mushrooms, cucumbers and scrambled eggs. I think it was a pretty healthy meal. And good for me as these type of meals are helping me to maintain my 15 kg weight loss, meals like this and aggressive exercise programs. The kids were amazing (considering my nephew is 5 and niece is 10) and they even helped do the washing and cleaning up afterwards. The plated food is shown below.

Saturday Lunch

Ride to Nowhere - Two Big Climbs - 97 km

2013-06-06T09:25:00.002+08:00

Today's ride didn't turn out as intended! Instead of doing the ride I had planned I went a different way. At some point I started to feel I was in the middle of a Talking Heads song on a Road to Nowhere. That of course happened after I drifted off course a few times. Before that though I felt I was riding through a Chinese painting and towards the end of the second major climb I felt I was in the middle of Vangelis' Heaven and Hell since half of that album is as painful to the ears as the lactic acid burn in my muscles, but the views were heavenly. Even though the ride lost its objective somewhere along the way, it was still a good 97 km grunt with 1,250 m of climbing. It was a great ride to nowhere. Loved being out there in the mountains.

Mountain Clouds

The Route

The route is to hit Road 5 in Taipei and ride to just before the 18 km marker. Turn onto the North 31 (北31) Road and climb over the mountain into Pingxi (平溪). From there turn onto Road 106 and, instead of turning towards Shenkeng, follow Road 106-1 (106之) towards Pinglin (坪林). Head to the top of the mountain and turn around and come back down the mountain. Head along Road 106 through Shenkeng to Muzha and then hit the riverside path along the Jingmei river and home.

Road 5 to Xizhi

View of the Mountains from Road 5

Road 5 starts on Chunghsiao East Rd. in Taipei. I picked it up in the Hsin Yi district of Taipei. I followed the road from Hsin Yi district to the end of Chunghsiao East Rd. and followed it onto Nangang Road and then onto Datong Road. From there Road 5 turns onto Hsin Tai Wu Road. I followed Hsin Tai Wu Road through Xizhi until just before the 18 km marker for Road 5, where I saw the sign for Pingxi (平溪). I then took the off ramp and turned onto the North 31 (北31) Road.

I previously documented this part of the ride in Cycle Trip to Tamsui, Via Keelung. You can see lots of pictures of this part of the ride there. I remember when I did that ride I had only started to get into cycling and before I even got to Xizhi I took tons of breaks. This time I cycled all the way there with a few stops for traffic lights only. I was happy to be moving along the road so quickly but, once I got into Xizhi and started looking at the huge clouds aggregating on the mountain tops, I started to get nervous. I was worried about rain, poor visibility, rock falls and slippery roads at the top of the mountain.

Ride to Pingxi (平溪)- First Attempt

Temple/Pagoda on the North 31 (北31) Road

When I was riding to Tamsui via Keelung all those years ago I bumped into a bunch of cyclists who were riding to Pingxi (平溪) along the North 31 (北31) Road. Later on, when I was riding to Fulong (and then Keelung), I had met another group of riders on Road 106 who had just finished riding the North 31 (北31) Road. I was determined to do this ride at some point. It certainly was a long time coming (but lets face it, I have been riding other roads!).

Cyclists I met riding the North 31 (北31) Road - met them on Road 5 in 2010

Friends in Pingxi (平溪) in 2010 - they had just finished riding the North 31 (北31) Road

It took me a while but today was going to be the first time I would make an attempt on the North 31 (北31) Road to Pingxi (平溪). To be honest, until I arrived at the actual turn off I was still debating whether I should make the attempt since the weather seemed to be turning even worse. When I arrived at the Pingxi (平溪) turn off I thought I would give it a try anyway. I thought if the weather got really nasty I could always turn around and head back down the mountain. So, decision made, I headed off Road 5 and got onto the North 31 (北31) Road. The bottom of the off ramp is ugly but I knew in the back of my head that Taiwan always delivers and very soon the views would be amazing. I was right! At the turn off onto the North 31 (北31) Road you are greeted with the signs below and a pretty ugly road (see the second picture below).

The first signs on the North 31 (北31) Road

On the Road to Pingxi (平溪)

Soon after entering the North 31 (北31) Road the views improve dramatically. The first beautiful thing I saw was a Pagoda or Temple (not sure which one it was) nestled into the mountain (see picture at the top of this section). I was making good time up the mountain, smashing past some of the switchbacks. I was quickly onto roads mostly surrounded by deep, green vegetation and nice river views. I started climbing even higher. I passed the 4 km marker quickly and was heading up to the 6 km marker when the incessant drizzle that had been with me the whole way so far, turned into a more serious downpour. The thunder in the clouds above was also pretty impressive. I decided to head down the mountain and find some shelter to wait out the weather. I drifted down the mountain and eventually found a closed up building with a front overhang where I could stay. Of course there was a stray dog there already waiting for the rain to stop! But he didn't seem to mind me. So my first assault on this mountain had ended. I decided to wait it out and see what would happen.

Waiting, waiting, waiting....

On the Road to Pingxi (平溪)

So I found a place to chill out and relax. I sat down on the floor, stretched out my legs, and drank some water. I took out my mobile phone, called a few people, took a few random pictures (of my feet and other things) and generally just got bored.

My companion who was also hiding from the rain

The Shelter I was hiding in

I realized pretty quickly however the wisdom of my decision. The rain got progressively worse over the next 40 minutes. The light also started to vanish under the thick cloud cover and it felt more like late evening than early afternoon. The thunder was also getting very loud and I noticed there seemed to be a lot of lightning on the mountain I was meant to be riding on. Normally rain doesn't bother me but thunder and lightning do. Last year when I was in Kenting going around the island there was thunder and lightning in the early morning which severely delayed my progress. Here again too I thought the wise decision was to take a break (no matter how long) and see the weather through.

Thick Storm Clouds on the Mountain

Experience has taught me that this type of rain in Taiwan usually doesn't last for more than an hour, and I was right. About an hour after I stopped and put up my feet up the rain started to lessen and then, all of a sudden stopped altogether. It was time to get back on the bike. I had to make the decision whether to go up the mountain, or go back down the way I had come. It was already 1:30 pm and I was concerned about the time and how long it would take me to complete my originally planned route. At the end I decided to try and get over the mountain and see how long that would take. I thought that if I got to Pingxi (平溪) I could see the time and make more decisions then about where I would go to next. This is the point where the ride lost its objective and became a journey on a road to nowhere.

Ride to Pingxi (平溪) - Take Two

The North 31 (北31) Road

I was quickly on my way to Pingxi (平溪). I was starting out at the 4 km marker on the North 31 (北31) Road and the road would climb for another 7 km before starting the descent into Pingxi (平溪). The road condition was good (see above) and I was surrounded by green most of the way. Sometimes the vegetation on the side of the road would open up and reveal amazing views of the city below and the neighboring mountains. It was a stunning days ride. Unfortunately the weather wasn't cooperating so I was struggling to get nice pictures of the city below. I am sure a better photographer than me could do it so you will either have to take my word for it that the view of the city from there is impressive, or get yourself up that mountain to see the stunning views yourself!

View of the city below

Mountain View

As I was riding along the road I saw this old, run down traditional house. You often run into these traditional houses on the roads in the countryside of Taiwan. It is always fun to see them. Much of the traditional way of life in Taiwan is being wiped out by modern development all over the country. I am not sure if this house was occupied. There was a more modern house next to it on the right hand side (not shown) that was certainly occupied by people and one big vicious dog. I think the dog wanted a piece of me, but we had a chat and he went home.

Traditional House

The nice thing about the North 31 (北31) Road are all these radical switchbacks. They became more frequent the higher up the mountain you went and they certainly helped to reduce the gradient a lot and, lets be honest, they simply look cool. The one shown below was nice and circular. The switchbacks on the other side of the mountain were even more dramatic and made the ride downhill a little more complicated, but more on that later.

Radical Switchbacks

As I got higher on the mountain the sounds of nature increased. There was one particular sound that left an impression: a high frequency bird call that echoed constantly on my ascent through the forest. I have no idea what type of bird it was. It was the first time (that I can recall) that I have ever heard that bird call. It was a very impressive sound. I kept looking around to see if I could identify the bird but no such luck. I just have to be content with the memory of its call. This particular bird call made me feel that I was in the middle of the jungle (although I wasn't really).

I quickly arrived at the top of the mountain. This was signaled by an incredibly green, towering mountain above the road. Unfortunately, once again, the picture below doesn't capture the drama of this mountain in quite the same way. A the top of the mountain there were also some more impressive views of the neighboring mountain. I stopped, sipped on my water, enjoyed the view, and then quickly decided it was time to start the descent.

At the top of the North 31 (北31) Road

View from the top of the North 31 (北31) Road

And into a Chinese Painting

Mountains and Clouds on The North 31 (北31) Road

After getting to the top of the mountain and riding to the other side, I was met by these stunning views of the mountains and the clouds. When I rode to Fushan (福山) last week I wrote that "the most amazing views is that of the clouds doing their dance around the mountains," and this was even more true today. As I stopped to enjoy these stunning views of the clouds on the mountains, and as I looked down the road and along the switchbacks I would be hitting, I felt I was about to ride through a Chinese painting. It was beautiful! It is amazing that we can see these views considering I was not even that high up relatively speaking (maybe a little over 500 m above sea level). These views are majestic and no matter how many times I see them, I never get tired of them! (I just wish I knew how to take better pictures of them - any tips anyone?)

Mountains and Clouds on The North 31 (北31) Road

After enjoying these views for a bit, it was time to head down. As I went down the other side of the mountain into Pingxi (平溪) I was sometimes riding through low level clouds. It was a tremendous feeling. Also, apart from being dwarfed by huge, green mountains on the side of the road, I was also covered with soft, delicate clouds. What a wonderful experience. Coming down the other side of the mountain, however, would prove to be a little more difficult. I think "real cyclists" would call it a technical descent! I wasn't in a rush to get down so I went down a little slower than normal: the roads were wet, my brakes didn't feel that good, I was on slicks and the switchbacks on this side of the mountain were quite vicious. I thought better to be safe than fall off and so went a lot slower down the mountain than I normally would.

Switchback on the other side of The North 31 (北31) Road

The road down to Pingxi (平溪), from the top, is around 7 km. You hit Pingxi (平溪) shortly after arriving at the 18 km marker on the North 31 (北31) Road. The trip down, as noted above, is beautiful. Unfortunately the ride down (as most rides downhill tend to be, was quick and was soon over. Before I knew it I was crossing the small bridge into Pingxi (平溪).

Pingxi (平溪) and a Ride into Heaven (and/or Hell)

Quaint Pingxi (平溪)

I got to the end of The North 31 (北31) Road and turned left onto Road 106. I had just ridden this road a few weeks ago on my way to Fulong. I had also ridden Road 106 on my way to Fulong a few years back too. I turned left onto Road 106 and was still thinking to follow my original route of going into Pinglin (坪林) along the The North 41 (北41) Road but started to think about the time and the fact that it would probably be another two 500 m climbs. After reaching the viewing deck for the river about 2 km outside of Pingxi (平溪), I decided it would be best to head back home. I turned the bike around and headed towards Shenkeng (深坑) along Road 106.

River View Outside Pingxi (平溪)

Although I had been on Road 106 before, most times before I had been heading towards Fulong, this was the first time I would be riding along Road 106 on the way back to Shenkeng (深坑). Thankfully it was mostly downhill as my legs were a bit tired at this point. There were some brief uphills but nothing too dramatic. All the time on Road 106 you are riding next to a river and are in between the stunning mountains covered in green vegetation.

Walls of Green on Road 106

I easily cruised through the small hamlets that dot the landscape on Road 106 and before I knew it I was at the intersection for Road 106 and Road 106-1 (106之). At the intersection there is a 7-11, a Family Mart and a few restaurants. I decided (since it was now nearly 3:00 pm to have a quick lunch. I went into the Family Mart and grabbed some cold noodles. Up until this point I fully intended on riding straight home, but then I started to think (and that was BAD!!!). I thought I could ride up Road 106-1 (106之) where it intersects Road 9, and then drop back down into Hsin Tien and head for home. I mean, I had done this before. Unfortunately, Road 106-1 (106之) doesn't intersect Road 9 at all. To get to Road 9 I would need to take a right turn in Shihding, but I completely forgot about that and decided to just follow Road 106-1 (106之). And that is where the journey to heaven (and hell) began!

Into Shihding

Road 106 intersects Road 106-1 (106之) at the 6 km marker and I knew it would be a pretty wild climb up this mountain. I got on the bike after lunch and started pumping my legs to get up the mountain. I quickly went through Shihding and started the climb in earnest. Shihding looks like a quaint little town and certainly a place I should stop in one day for lunch! But not this time, this time I was trying to get to the top of the mountain as fast as possible.

River in Shihding

After Shihding I started to feel the pain in my legs as the lactic acid started to race through my quads and hamstrings. I mean it wasn't the toughest of climbs but my legs are still not in proper shape and this climb would be tough for a lot of people I think. I started pushing harder and harder to get up the mountain. For the first 7 km I didn't take any breaks: I just focused on pumping my legs and pushing up higher and higher on the mountain. Each pedal bought with it additional pain and I knew I was nearly done, but I didn't want to quit. Eventually I stopped and took a picture of the switchback I had just ascended. At this point I was strongly thinking to call it a day , to turn the bike around and head for home, but what fun would that be?

Switchbacks on Road 106-1 (106之) to Pinglin (坪林)

Switchbasks on Road 106-1 (106之) to Pinglin (坪林)

I carried on pushing up the mountain but eventually my legs just gave in! I had nothing left to give the pedals. I decided I couldn't be that far from the top so decided, instead of giving up completely, I would just walk up. As I was walking up I found a small shop that offered some refreshments! I grabbed some sweet sugary drink and relaxed in front of the fan for about 10 minutes massaging my wasted legs. I spoke to the proprietor and she assured me that I was nearly at the top and the views were worth it. She said I was within 1 km of the top but she also told me that there was no Road 9 at the top of the mountain and to get to Hsin Tien I would have to descend into Pinglin (坪林) and then climb out again over the mountain along Road 9. It was already 4:00 pm. It was getting late and I knew I just didn't have the legs to do another 500 m climb. I decided I would ride to the top, enjoy the view and the descend the way I had come. My legs were wrecked, but the road and the views were heavenly. After resting for about 10 minutes I got back onto the bike and rode the final kilometer. It was worth the effort and the views of the mountains in the dying sun were as beautiful as ever.

Finally at the top of Road 106-1 (106之)

The views from the top of the mountain are spectacular. I could even see the top of Taipei 101!. It was early evening, the sun was going down, so it was even more enjoyable. I took a long break up there! I had earned this view with a lot of pain going up. But I was content and I was at peace with my decision to descend the way I had come. I just stood there enjoying the views, wishing I could stay up there longer!

View from the Top of Road 106-1 (106之)

Taipei 101 from the Top of Road 106-1 (106之)

As I mentioned earlier, Road 106 and Road 106-1 (106之) intersect at the 6 km marker on Road 106-1 (106之). The climb to the top of the mountain is about 12 km. I saw the 18 km marker near the top. I had been on this road before, except I had ridden it the other way, from Pinglin (坪林) into Shihding. I did it many years ago. The descent into Pinglin (坪林) is only 7 km as I recall so the gradient down is very steep. I remember when I did it the last time, I couldn't even pedal up some parts of the road it was so steep. Anyway, today I wouldn't be going down that way. After spending some time at the top of the mountain, it was time to head down and head for home!

Homeward Bound

Tunnel near the bottom of the Road 106-1 (106之)

Going down is easy! I just jumped on the bike and coasted all the way down the mountain. I was at the bottom within 20 minutes. I was relieved to finally be heading home. But the day was not finished with me yet! A few kilometers before Shenkeng (深坑), as I pushed down on the pedal, all the muscles in my left thigh cramped at once. It was severe pain and I nearly fell off the bike! I managed to get off the bike slowly and I sat on the side of the dirty road slowly flexing the leg and stretching the cramp out. It wasn't the best experience but I was ecstatic! Since my knee operation in December, these muscles have been severely atrophied. I have been working out and trying to build them but no matter what I do I haven't really had the sense that they were being worked. Today was the first day I felt them! I was happy. It means all the walking, cycling and squats are paying off and that the muscles are building and starting to do their fair share of the load. Good News! Although it was a little undignified sitting on that road!

After I dealt with the cramp I headed through Shenkeng (深坑) for Muzha. Riding through Shenkeng (深坑) at rush hour is terrible and I decided I didn't want to be on the roads anymore. Once I got to Muzha I jumped onto the riverside path next to the Jingmei river and headed for Gonguan. This is a path I know very well so I was quite content to just cruise along the bike trail and not stress the muscles anymore than was needed. It was good to be back on this path (it had been a while) and it also meant I was close to home!

The Jingmei River - looking back at the incinerator

Riverside Park Opposite the Zoo

Along the riverside path you see some of the homes and buildings in the city. These views are not the nicest but at least the path is safe and you don't have to worry about cars, motorcycles, buses and trucks.

Not the Prettiest

Silhouette City

I was quickly back in Gonguan and riding through the University for home. It was a great days riding, despite not achieving specified goals, I still managed to do 97 km and climb 1,200 m or so, not much wrong with that!

Final Thoughts

Girls on Bikes Rock!

Sometimes planned routes don't work out. I planned to leave at 5:00 am to do the original route but there was too much rain. I only got out the door at 10:20 am. I went for a ride and didn't follow the route I intended. I got stuck, my legs weren't up for some of it, I suffered a lot of pain (especially the cramping) but so what. It was an awesome ride. I would do it again in a heartbeat. The beauty of the clouds in the mountains, the beauty of the green vegetation lining the streets, the stunning views of the mountains in the dying sun make it all worthwhile. I never regret my rides, no matter what happens. To ride is to be free! Seeing Taiwan from the seat of a bicycle is a privilege, and in my honest opinion it is the best way to see Taiwan. It is a magnificently beautiful country.

One other great thing about this ride is I have developed a bunch of new routes for the future. I think there would be some interesting rides in this part of the woods. Everyone rides Yangmingshan, but I think these mountains, while not as high as Yangmingshan, have great potential for some awesome views, and are not heavily touristed, which makes it a lot safer. So I am looking forward to many more happy days with my butt in the saddle, and my tires screaming (at relatively low speed) along the tarmac of Taiwan! C'est la vie!

As always, thanks for reading and comments are free!

Pudding - An Introduction

2013-06-03T21:46:00.000+08:00

Five and a half years ago we had to say good bye to our precious and most beloved cat Mimi. We were devastated. She had polycystic kidney disease and diabetes. We kept her alive with insulin injections and regular runs to the hospital as long as we could but eventually there was nothing that could be done and we put her down. Well, this past weekend, we decided to adopt a new cat from the Chienkuo Flower Market (建國花市). Queenie's mom named him Pudding. I am sure from time to time we will be posting pictures of Pudding on our blog so just thought we would introduce him now.

Pudding is, at the time of adoption on 1 June, 2013 two months old. He is cute but of course very nervous and unsure of his new environment. We are looking forward to years of joy and fun with our new cat.Pictures of Pudding are below

Riding in the Mountains of Wulai (烏來) - 130 km

2013-05-30T17:06:00.000+08:00

Cycling to Wulai (烏來), from Taipei (台北), is a regular route for me. It combines beautiful scenery with some nice, not too devastating climbs, and some good flats, with the promised reward of almond milk at the end of the trip. Yesterday (29 May 2013) I decided to do the Wulai (烏來) fork (my own name). The first road on the fork, that goes to the Tong Hou (桶后), trail is truly a ride along God's own road! Easily the MOST BEAUTIFUL road I have cycled on in Taiwan. Straight through the mountains with magnificent views of the river and vegetation and very little traffic. A tremendous reward for such great and challenging effort. The second road that goes past the famous Wulai (烏來) waterfall goes all the way up to the small village of Fushan (福山). This road is not as impressive as the first, but it is still stunning. It is well worth the effort and both roads are highly recommended!

Beautiful River Road on the way to Fushan (福山)

The Route

The basic route from Taipei (台北) is to ride to Hsin Tien (新店)then head to Wulai (烏來). Turn left to the Tong Hou (桶后)trail. Return to Wulai (烏來) and then head up to Fushan (福山). The map is shown below.

Getting to Wulai (烏來)

Wulai (烏來) Waterfall

The normal route to Wulai (烏來) is to get to Hsin Tien (新店) and follow Road 9 to Ping Ling (坪林) for about two or three kilometers. Go past the Hsin Tien (新店) MRT station, head up over the hill and then after a short descent you will see Road 9甲. Turn right and go straight for about 16 km and you will arrive (regular route map). Today I decided to go a different way through the back of Hsin Tien (新店). Instead of crossing to the East side of the Hsin Tien (新店) river, I stayed on the West side and navigated my way through the small narrow streets. I got onto Bitan Road and followed it onto Yongye Road. Unfortunately at this point, for some reason unknown to me, instead of following instinct and going straight, I turned left on Lane 81 Yongye road (next to the Family Mart). This was a very steep climb to the top. When I got there I was blessed with a tremendous view of the hills (and waterworks) (see picture below) behind Hsin Tien (新店) but it was a needless (and painful) detour. I got back down to Yongye Road, and turned left and followed the road up and had a nice downhill into the valley I was just admiring.

View of Water Works from Hsin Tien (新店)

The first part of this road is not that impressive. Small industrial outfits take away the beauty of the road. I just carried on straight following signs indicating I was on the North Road 105. Unfortunately this is where I took my second detour. Instead of veering left (as instinct dictated) I continued heading up the road for some reason believing it would get me back to the river. After cycling uphill for a few kilometers I flagged down a scooter and asked the guy. He put me back on course. The good news was that the way to the correct road was all downhill, so easy to get to. I must admit though that the road I was on did have some nice views too and wouldn't be too bad for a days ride, but I had a specific goal for the day and wanted to achieve it.

When I finally got on the correct road the views of the river and the mountains improved dramatically. The river in the morning light was magnificent. I stopped to grab a few pictures and, when I finally arrived in the small town of Quchi, the riverside park offered tremendous views of the river and the surrounding mountains. This is the first time I have been here and it will become a regular route for me now.

On the Road to Quchi

River View from the Park in Quchi

After leaving Quchi I soon joined the regular road to Wulai (烏來), Road 9甲, and was quickly on my way. The Road 9甲 to Wulai (烏來) is very familiar to me now but I am always stunned and amazed by the beauty of this road and the closeness of the mountains and the deep river valley. I have been there often on the bus or in the car but you really feel the magnificence of this road when you are there on your bicycle. It never gets old. I was soon cruising down the hill to Wulai Shopping Street (烏來老街), which was completely deserted. I Stopped to grab some water at the Family Mart and found a small breakfast shop to grab an egg roll and soy bean milk. I was soon on my way again to the Tonghou Trail (桶后步道)

The Beautiful Hsin Tien River

Fisherman in the River

River Valley to Wulai (烏來)

Looking into Wulai (烏來)

Wulai Shopping Street (烏來老街)

God's Own Road - Cycling to the Tonghou Trail (桶后步道)

Caution Cyclists: this road is not for road bikes.

I have been on many roads in Taiwan, but this certainly ranks among the most beautiful to date. Stunning views of the river and the forest are amazing reward for the tremendous effort needed to get there. To get onto the road is easy: it is a continuation of Road 9甲. When coming into the Wulai Shopping Street (烏來老街) you will pass a Family Mart and cross a small bridge. Take the next left turn. After riding for a bit you will soon see a sign indicating the Tonghou Trail (桶后步道) is a further 17 km along the road. The sign is correct. Riding along the small narrow road soon shows some great views of the river valley.

Road to the Tonghou Trail (桶后步道)

After the first 4 km you will come to a police station with a gate across the road. I stopped and went into the police office. The policeman told me the road only went for a further 3 km and then stopped. I told him I would go anyway. He said fine. I had to sign in and he told me when I came out again I needed to stop and tell him. I passed through the gate and headed on what I thought would be a relatively short ride. After 4 km I arrived at a second police check point. The policeman was stopping cars and trucks from going in. I thought that this would be where this part of the ride would end. I carried on riding up to the boom gate and, as soon as the guard saw me he opened the gate and waved me through. I wasn't about to stop. I just continued to ride on and tried to put as much distance between myself and the gate.

First Police Check Point

Once you get on the road, the road quickly becomes a tree covered paradise that with beautiful views of the valley below, the river and the mountains and the cool breeze from the forest makes it an extremely enjoyable ride and helps to make the fiery uphills bearable.

Tree Covered Road

There are some incredible views of the valley below. One of the best of which is shown in the picture below. The road all the way to the end is gorgeous and the surrounding natural environment is very compelling.

The Beautiful Tonghou River (桶后溪)

All the way along the road you are surrounded by forest and natural greenery and the beauty of the place is way too difficult to capture in either words or pictures. Only experience will suffice.

Beautiful Mountain Road

Along the road are many small waterfalls and small water features. One of the more impressive of these falls is about halfway to the end of the road and of course it was time to stop to take some pictures.

Beautiful Waterfall

After the waterfall you carry on cycling uphill and eventually arrive at a small beach that can be easily accessed from the road. I decided to take a short break and enjoy the water. It was great. There was a family doing a day trip in their car (the road was closed but the family patriarch was an administrator in the region and they were permitted to drive their cars through). They helped take a picture of me in the water. The water was so clean, clear and fresh: pristine would be the correct word to describe it.

In the River

After the beach the road continues to go up but eventually the river and the road meet at the same level and a beautiful open wooded area that can be walked through shows the water falling over terraces and tremendous views of the fir tree covered mountain. Absolutely stunning views.

Beautiful River Valley

Terraced Falls

At this point I thought the road was going to go on for another 10 km or so but it ended all too soon a few kilometers further on. It was an inauspicious arrival: the road just drifts into a gravel parking area, next to it is a suspension bridge that leads you into the forest on the other side and is the beginning of the Tonghou Trail (桶后步道). The bridge looks a bit dodgy but I went across it anyway. At the other side of the bridge is a staircase that leads to a beautiful forest. I was happy to be there finally. I had first read about the Tonghou Trail (桶后步道) a few years back and this is the first time I have been to the beginning of the trail. One day I will cycle through it to Jiaoxi, but I need to be more prepared to do it. For this trip I had reached the end of the road and would soon head back to Wulai (烏來).

The End of the Road, Beginning of the Trail

On the Other Side of the Suspension Bridge

Beginning of the Tonghou Trail (桶后步道)

When I finally went back to the other side of the river the people who were travelling in their cars had arrived. They were very kind giving me some snacks and a bottle of water. They had also come from Taipei and were quite surprised that I had cycled all the way there from Taipei.

New Friends at the beginning of the Tonghou Trail(桶后步道)

All too soon it was time to leave and head back to the Wulai Shopping Street (烏來老街). The one thing to note about this road is that the condition of the road is not that great and road bikes would probably not easily get through on this road. It was shocking in some parts (and that is why the road was closed). See the pictures below.

Road to the Tonghou Trail (桶后步道)

Coming down the mountain was easy enough. There weren't many uphills but the complications arrived with the massive rain the bucketed down on me. The rain was so hard that visibility was reduced to about 20 m. I had no choice but to carry on riding down. The rain in itself was also majestic and presented a different and more compelling impression of the power of nature. In the heaviest rain, the journey down that mountain almost became a spiritual exercise. I was afraid that the roads were wet, that my breaks would fail, that I would over shoot a narrow corner and bounce over the barriers separating the road from very high drops. I just did what I needed to do and continued to roll slowly down the mountain. It was an incredible experience and right the way through it I was thinking to myself that this is part of the great adventure. I wasn't upset that it was raining, I was, in some ways, ecstatic and welcomed it, it showed me a different face of nature and I will forever appreciate the gift.

An hour after leaving the Tonghou Trail (桶后步道) I was back in the Family Mart in the Wulai Shopping Street (烏來老街). I stopped for a banana and a snickers bar and replenished my water. I met some other cyclists who were taking a break and chatted to them about their plans. No one wanted to ride up to Fushan (福山) with me. To be honest, I was a little bit demotivated by the incessant rain falling down on me but I decided a goal was a goal and I needed to do the ride. So at around 12:20 I got back on the bike and headed for the second goal of the day: Fushan (福山).

Into the Clouds - Riding to Fushan (福山)

To get to Fushan (福山), go to the end of the Wulai Shopping Street (烏來老街), cross the bridge, turn left and cycle up the mountain for about 17 km, you will arrive. It is an incredible ride up the mountain, and although I think the road to the Tonghou Trail (桶后步道) is the best, this one is incredible too and well worth the effort. Unfortunately, as you get on the road to go up to Fushan (福山), there are some roadworks in progress so it is necessary to push your bike for a few hundred meters, but this is only temporary and will change soon. Once past the roadworks I hopped on the bike and headed straight up the mountain: I passed the waterfall, went through a small tunnel along the road and then blasted all the way up the mountain without stopping once. I was kind of impressed by the effort.

It rained most of the way up the mountain but I had just ridden to Fushan (福山) the week before (23 May 2013 - see map) so most of the pictures below were taken during that ride as it was too difficult to take out the camera and grab pictures with such heavy rain around.

Once you pass the Wulai (烏來) waterfall, the next major milestone is the small tunnel 3 km up the road. It is probably one of the smallest and quaintest tunnels in Taiwan and certainly one of the big reasons tour buses, trucks and the like do not go further up this road. And that is a good thing!

Tunnel on the way to Fushan (福山)

It should also be noted that the roads to Fushan (福山) are very well maintained and certainly much better than the road to the Tonghou Trail (桶后步道). The roads are narrow in part so constant vigilance for oncoming traffic is needed. Also, because of the mist that may appear on the road, it is best have reflective gear at hand so vehicles can see you more easily, especially on the narrower stretches of the road. Still, this road I think is very safe, and I was riding up it in a downpour.

The Road to Fushan (福山)

Along the way there are some tremendous views of the river running through the valley (see the picture at the top of this post) and of the mountains. Next to the road there are also waterfalls, terraced waterfalls and beautiful vegetation to admire. For me, the most amazing views is that of the clouds doing their dance around the mountains. Just stunning and overwhelming. And although it is so dramatic, watching it play out brings so much peace. Nature is majestic!

The picture below is taken right outside the small tunnel shown above.

Protecting the road from Rockfalls and Landslides

Beautiful Views on The Road to Fushan (福山)

Stunning Stream on The Road to Fushan (福山)

Beautiful Terraced Falls

Big Waterfall

The road here mostly goes up. Just up, up and up. You continue to pump your legs to make sure you continue to move, but sometimes it hurts. The worst part of the climbing starts at the 7 km mark and ends around the 12 km mark. But for those 5 km it is tough. The rest doesn't seem particularly challenging and if you have decent endurance you should make it easily enough. If I did it, most people can. You will pass another police check point but they won't say anything to you. Both times they just waved me on. When you reach the check point you are about 10 km away from Fushan (福山). Just remember to keep spinning those legs and to look up and appreciate the tremendous views and vistas you are earning. It is not easy for an average rider like me, but it is worth it.

Eventually you will reach the sign shown below, and you know you have made it.

Fushan (福山)

Go past this sign for about 1 km and you will come to a small brick layered parking lot with some restaurants. Go behind the restaurants and you will see a beautiful river with some beautiful waterfalls. Alternatively, go across the river and enjoy the beautiful river side park. It is such a beautiful place to hang around in or have a picnic in. Unfortunately, when I was there (both times) it was raining.

Terraced Falls in Fushan (福山)

River View in Fushan (福山)

On this ride I was cold and wet and found a small restaurant that was open. I asked them for some hot tea and lunch. They delivered a freshly cooked waffle, three slices of pineapple and a cake. With the hot tea it was NTD 150! Very expensive! The week before I had much better food at a different restaurant (which was unfortunately closed) for around the same price, but was so much more than what I got on this ride. However, beggars can't be choosers so I ate and paid and got ready to head back down the mountain to Wulai (烏來) once more!

My sad Lunch

By the time I was ready to leave, the rain had stopped and the day was becoming pleasant again. I was soon on my bike, drifting down the mountain and enjoying the majestic views again. After a very quick hour of riding I was at the Wulai (烏來) waterfall again.

Homeward Bound

Atayal (泰雅) Girl in Wulai

When I got to the Wulai (烏來)Waterfall I stopped to take some pictures with the local Atayal Women dressed in their traditional clothes.

Atayal (泰雅) Girls in Wulai

I then powered down to the Wulai Shopping Street (烏來老街 )again where I had to once again push my bike through the terrible roadworks.

Roadworks in Wulai (烏來)

After I arrived at the Wulai Shopping Street (烏來老街)I stopped to honor my years long tradition of having a large cup of almond milk. I only drink it in Wulai (烏來) as a well deserved treat for riding so hard and far.

Almond Milk Treat

After finishing my almond milk it was time to head back home along Road 9甲 that turns off onto Road 9 into Hsin Tien. I was sad to be leaving the mountains again but happy to have ridden so hard and so high during the day. It was a wonderful day of riding. I managed to power back home in about 1.5 hours and was pleased to be able to put my feet up after 130 km and 1,600 m of climbing. It was a great day.

Final Thoughts

So after doing 187 km a week ago (see Cycling Taiwan's North Coast - 187 km), I was still worried about my knee. I rode up to Fushan (福山) last week too and I thought my knee would be fine. It mostly was! However towards the end of the day it started to feel sore. I had no choice but to carry on riding home.

Some other thoughts: The ride to the Tonghou Trail (桶后步道) is definitely one of the most beautiful roads you can ride on in Taiwan. It was stunning. The road to Fushan (福山) is also amazing too. Doing both in a day is well worth the effort and one is richly rewarded with tremendous views of Taiwan's amazing natural beauty. Brilliant stuff and well worth it. Riding in the rain was also a bit disconcerting but slowing down and taking care makes it safe and easily manageable.

I will definitely do both roads again but I will probably never do them both in the same day again. I guess on should never say never!

Flickr Sets:

Cycling Taiwan's North Coast - 187 km

2013-05-28T07:31:00.000+08:00

This is a ride I have been meaning to do for a while. Unfortunately ripping my AC ligament off the bone and tearing the meniscus ligament (both in the left knee) while playing rugby last year in October put paid to any cycling for a long long time. My knee is feeling better and I decided to do the massive North Coast loop (Monday, 20 May 2013). It was a good day for riding and I am glad to report that there was no significant discomfort and, apart from the usual aches and pains, the ride went off smoothly.

Mountain View on the way to Fulong

The Route

The ride combines the ride from Fulong to Keelung (see Rain Riding to Fulong and Back) and the ride from Keelung to Tamsui (see Cycle Trip to Tamsui, via Keelung). The total route was about 187km. I managed to do it in under 12 hours. I was hoping to do 200 km within 10 hours but I am still not fighting fit and even if fit, that target would be ambitious. Briefly, I cycled to Shenkeng, passed through Shiding and headed out to Fulong. From Fulong I just followed the coastal highway to Tamsui and then headed along the river side path back to Taipei.

Beginnings - Not really up to it

I mentioned my intention to do this ride to Queenie and a few friends last week, but when I woke up rain was threatening and I was concerned about my leg. I haven't cycled too much in the past 6 months and my recent attempt at a 100 km ride (ride to Yingge) met with disaster as I had severe cramps at the 45 km mark and had to quit at 88 km. The following week I managed to do a 60 km ride to Wulai without too much trouble but I was still concerned.. Anyway, the morning I was going to ride I sat around the house for about 40 minutes procrastinating and then at 7:00 am I decided to head out and see how far I could get. I had no regrets.

Riding to Fulong

Early Morning Shenkeng

The first part of the trip to Fulong wasn't nearly as difficult as I remembered. Some of the climbs were as slow as I remembered but nothing really tough and nothing that caused any severe discomfort. I first headed down Hoping East Road to the Road 106. Then turned left and headed off into Shenkeng without any incident or fuss. Of course there was some traffic but nothing too difficult that I couldn't deal with.

From Shenkeng I just followed Road 106 through the mountains passing some of the smaller towns such as Shihding, Pingxi, Shifen, Shuangxi and Gongliao. Riding along this road was good since after leaving Shenkeng there wasn't much traffic and the mountain road was beautiful (as you would expect). When I got to Shifen I carried on straight instead of taking the turn off to Road 2. I just had my head down and was drifting happily along the road. After going off course for 1 km I realized my mistake, asked an older gentleman the way and he happily advised me of where to go. Although it was slower than I remembered, the views were still amazing and I loved being back in the mountains and back on my bike. Some of the views are shown below.

Shiding

Beautiful Views on the the Way to Fulong

Beautiful Views on the the Way to Fulong

I rode into Fulong in 3 hours 20 minutes, slightly slower than I was hoping for but I forgot about the mountains and their slowing effect. Ideally this would be a 3 hour ride (or less). I stopped in the 7-11 for a couple of bananas, a Supao, a snickers bar and some water. After a 10 minute break I turned the bike around and headed for Keelung.

Onward to Keelung

Keelung Harbor

After turning my bike around at the 7-11 I started to ride up towards Keelung. As I have mentioned before (see Day 11 - Ilan ~ Keelung) there is a dedicated cycle path heading out of Fulong that makes it safe. There are a few motorcycles that use the cycling path but I mostly blocked them and forced them off.

Motorcycle in the Cycling Lane

Snaking along the 40 km trail to the Keelung harbor is always a pleasure. I went at the same ambling pace as the first 56 km so it was comfortable. Along this stretch of road you pass through some of the small fishing towns and see some of the incredible vistas of the cliffs on the side of the island.

North Coast View

North Coast View

North Coast View

At this stage I was quite comfortable on the bike but when I hit the 75 km mark my left leg seized up with cramp. I had to get off the bike and walk it off. I got back on the bike but for some reason I just wanted to quit at that point. I knew the feeling would only last for a few kilometers so pushed through until I started to feel a little better. Then, as I entered Keelung, all hell broke loose with the weather and a giant rain shower ensued. I just carried on riding. It was too late to stop. I was already wet. The rain soon faded and within 30 minutes I was at the Keelung harbor. It was a sense of closure and this was the second point of departure where I could take a short cut back into Taipei or push through to Tamsui. Of course I chose the latter option.

Arriving in Keelung

Keelung to Tamsui, and Home

100 km Point

The worst part of the ride was still ahead of me, but I had no idea. I rode out of Keelung, headed uphill for a bit to get on the road to Jinshan and then headed for Tamsui and home. I passed the 100 km point of the ride (the first time I have done that in a long time) at a fairly innocuous part of the journey and continued pushing along the North Coast. I was really hungry and decided to stop at the 7-11 at Green Wave Bay where I grabbed some cold noodles and a couple of bananas. I rested there for a bit and then continued slowly on my way.

100 km Point

Lunch

I passed through Jinshan and then headed off towards Shimen and that was the second point where it became really hard. The huge winds that were blowing South from the Northern tip of Taiwan were vicious and slowed me down significantly. Normally I can just blast through this part of the road but the winds were so ferocious that at some points, along the flat road, I was reduced to doing 7 km/h. It was worse than riding up a steep hill. It was a hard journey but after a long time I managed to push past the Northern tip and get out of the wind. It took a long while and I was utterly exhausted at the end of it. I think this was the part that really tired my legs out. But still, I made it.

The North Coast

Heading into Tamsui - 150 km point

After that it was relatively simple heading into Tamsui. There were no really exciting incidents along the way. I just continued to enjoy the views of the ocean and the road on which I haven't been in a long long time. I was way too exhausted to take many pictures and I was just trying to pedal for home. It was also at this point I realized I wouldn't be hitting the 200 km target I had set myself for the days ride and started thinking about doing an extra stretch to Hsin Tien to bring up the milestone but, after I reached Gongguan and was so close to home, all thoughts of going further evaporated from my mind.

Final Words

View of Beitou

Well, at the end of the trip it was a 187 km ride done in under 12 hours. Slightly worse than I was hoping. I was hoping to do 200 km in 10 hours but it was not to be. I was happy with the end result considering the fact that my one leg is half the size of the other since the muscle was severely atrophied after the operation on my knee, and considering this was only my third ride back, it wasn't a bad effort. I will probably repeat this ride at some point later but will try to add a little more speed and get it done quicker. The one great result of this is that I now know Fulong can become a regular route (there and back through the mountains will be a 112 km and I believe can be done in less than 6 hours).

Thanks for reading and, as usual, comments are always appreciated.