Passion Flower Musings

Gangster Girl Costume

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Mon, 24 May 2010 17:06:00 +0000

Last year, my boyfriend and I decided to dress in a gangster / 20's theme for Halloween. Unfortunately (or fortunately) we decided to not go out, instead we just handed out some candy.
So he had his costume purchased and I had one that would work, because I could not decide what I really wanted to do yet. But I had in my mind a costume to make. There also just happened to be a black pinstripe fabric on the $1.97 shelf at the local Walmart.
Now I had purchased the fabric and then decided that it was too flimsy for what I had in mind and put it on the back burner for a while. Then I found this pattern when I was flipping through the costume section of the Simplicity catalogue (I really think that they have the best selection of costume patterns)View A was pretty close to what I had imagined (bottom right corner), but upon closer inspection I realized that the front buttons were decoration only. (there was a back zipper) I wanted my vest to have functional buttons, so that it didn't look like the cheap costumes that you can buy for Halloween.
So I decided to draft a new front piece. (What was I thinking! I don't know how to draft pattern pieces!) So I traced out half of the front piece, and added a button facing.

I still have the problem of the flimsy fabric though. So I went through the stash to see what I had to solve this problem, and I remembered some flannel curtain liners that I made last year to stop the drafts. And we have a winner! So I cut a layer of fashion fabric, a layer of lining and a layer of flannel. (this is also a bonus as Halloween can be quite cold in these parts) The dress is made from the flimsy pinstripe material and part of an old sheet.

After finishing up all the layers (I also fully lined the vest) I decided that I should bind the edges of the vest. I started out with white binding (as you can see on the front) but decided that I didn't like the look of that, so went with black binding on the rest. I am lazy and hate button holes, so hand sewed on large snaps to close the vest and added false buttons to the front for a double breasted look. (Looking at it now, I think that I have to make the white binding black as well!)

Now I have a set of costumes for my back-up this year! (Because a girl is always changing her mind!)

And onto the Holidays

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 18:27:00 +0000

So the corset project has lost a little steam after Halloween. All sewing has lost a little steam, I think I burnt myself out on costume making this year. Although it was a productive Halloween. I managed to sew four vampire capes, and one whole vampire costume, plus a ghost, Luke Skywalker and Princess Leia from Star Wars. And I am now 90% done with my gangster girl costume from a few years ago. I was planning on wearing it for Halloween this year, but once again, did not get it done in time!
Instead we went as an Mongolian man and a Geisha, costumes that were made a few years ago, but never worn.

Now onto the Christmas sewing!

And as if I haven't sewn enough costumes this year, I have decided that my kids need a pretend trunk complete with dress-up clothes! (which are almost impossible to find for boys)

Wish me luck! ( I may just need it!)

Queen of Hearts and Alice in Wonderland Costume Set GIVEAWAY!!!!

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 14:07:00 +0000

You must go check out these incredible costumes! (and she's giving them away!)
Queen of Hearts and Alice in Wonderland Costume Set GIVEAWAY!!!!

Pattern Review - McCalls 3609

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 22:30:00 +0000

Pattern Description:
Civil War (?) Undergarments.
Pattern Sizing:
I made this in my standard clothing pattern size 16.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Other than the fact that I used fancy fabric, yes!
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This pattern was easy to use, and the instructions were good.
Fabric Used:
Various, see posts on "making of a corset"
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
none for the first one, then I decided to make the top smaller and add an inch to the total length.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This is a great pattern! I may sew it again if I find that I need more of these, but I totally recommend this pattern to others!
Conclusion:
I think this is a great pattern, I don't honestly know how "Historically Correct" it is, but most of the Big 4 patterns aren't. I think that this is an easy pattern and can be very modern with the correct fabric choices (or very historic). It makes a very comfortable corset.
The first one turned out alright, but the second one was a failure! (I am sure it was human error of some kind!)

Corset Muslin #2

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Tue, 06 Oct 2009 20:20:00 +0000

Having finished the first muslin, I knew what alterations I wanted to make to the basic pattern. I needed to lengthen it by at least an inch (I think I have a long torso, and wanted more support for the tummy area) and I needed to shave off a bit on the top for more "squish".
I choose to make muslin number 2 in a peach brocade remnant and an ivory bridal satin? lining.
Decided to use smaller grommets this time. Didn't really like them as they are only one piece, I find the two piece grommets work better and the fabric stays in them better.

Total Cost

Fabric - $1.25 Remnant bin at walmart
Grommets - 2 pkgs @ $2.00 = $4.00
Cable ties - lots! I couldn't find the size I had used before in the hardware stores, just the flimsy kind, and not long enough. (I now have a whole variety of cable ties!) I eventually found some in a supply store but they only had packages of 100, so now I have a whole lot of the size I wanted too! $67.00 total!
Lacing Ties - Stash

Labour - 10 hours

It looks beautiful in the photos above, but something terrible has gone wrong!

I don't know if one of the fabrics stretched funny while I was sewing or what, but this corset is way too small and has funny bubbling of the outer shell.

From this side, everything looks great, and it is doing wonders for the cleavage.

But.....

The other side has bubbled! I really think that I may have to put this pattern aside, and try another one! I am feeling a little discouraged!

Pattern Review - New Look 6857

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 14:20:00 +0000

Pattern Description:
Misses and Men's Scrub top and pants
Pattern Sizing:
I made this one in an XL (Just a guess for a man's sizing)
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Pretty Much.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
There are very few men's Scrubs patterns avaliable (not that there is much to them), and I happened to own this one, so it is the one I chose. Now I have to find a lab coat pattern, which is even harder as it seems all the Scrub patterns are geared towards women and the coat styles reflect that.
Fabric Used:
Cotton Broadcloth ($1.97 Rack at walmart)
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
None.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This was a very easy pattern and would be easy for a beginner to put together. The ladies scrubs look very cute as well.
Conclusion:
This pattern worked for the Doctor Costume that I had in mind. Still need that Lab Coat though! It was a quick and easy pattern to put together, and the instructions seemed very straightforwards. It could be easily made many times in different fabric if you were sewing this for a work environment.

This costume goes with the nurse costume made a few years ago!

Finished Corset Muslin

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Mon, 21 Sep 2009 01:23:00 +0000

Finally! Here are the finished corset muslin photos!

You can see the dart I had to put in the side to get the proper compression
It actually closes on me (I squish better, I guess!)

The Making of a Corset - The First Muslin

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 02:34:00 +0000

I have finished the first muslin of my corset project. Surprisingly it went well and fit almost perfect right out of the envelope! I have decided that I want to lengthen the next version and make the top part of the corset a tad bit smaller (I had to put some darts in this version to make it fit properly on the top).

Now for the tally!

Total cost of materials:

Shell fabric and lining - scraps from stash $0
Boning - size 14 Heavy Duty cable ties (had on hand) $?
Thread - stash $0
Grommets - 22 large two piece grommets $4.20
Bias tape - extra yellow broadcloth that I made into bias strips - stash $0
Lacing Cord - Had in stash, but I remember buying at the dollar store - $1.05

Total hours put in: 17! (Yes, I really counted)

Tools Purchased:

Tin snips - $16.97 + tax

So if we are counting the tools in this total, the price comes in under $25.00 !!!
(Now it would be a really different story if I was counting labour costs!)

I have already altered the pattern for the changes that I want to make, and have picked out my fabric, so on to muslin #2!

(I have added the binding, and will take some photos tomorrow to show you!)

Pattern Review - Vogue 8305

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Thu, 03 Sep 2009 15:20:00 +0000

Pattern Description:
MISSES’ JACKET, TOP, DRESS AND PANTS: Loose-fitting, unlined jacket has shaped front hems and long sleeves which may be worn open, or lower edges of front can be tied at waist or draped over shoulder. Fitted top or below mid-knee dress has raised back neckline, back zipper and long sleeves. Tapered pants have self-lined yoke, back zipper and side slits at ankles.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I had to read them a few times to figure out what was going on, but once you had the pieces in your hands, it was easy.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This was a very easy pattern to put together, but I knew it needed some alterations just from the design photo. (See below). After wearing it a few times, I have noticed that the back neck tends to pull because of the drape, but that may only bother me because I don't particularly like things touching my neck! (and sometimes have trouble wearing necklaces)
Fabric Used:
Cotton Jersey found at an Edmonton Fabric store! (Marshall's fabrics)
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I cut about 10 inches off the front drape, because when I measured the pattern I found that it would have touched the floor when I wore it, and I am 5'5"! (I think this was drafted for a giant!)
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I think I might sew this again when I get some more time. I would totally recommend it, just remember to make some pattern measurements before you cut out all that fabric (the envelope says it should take about 3 m, but after I was done, I had about 1m left because of my alterations)
Conclusion:
I love this pattern, and it is really well fitted (not like some other Big 4 patterns), other than the excessively long drape. Try it out!

Ps. Please don't mind the hems! (I haven't decided how I want to finish this one, so I just serged the edges for now!) I may go back and make some alterations to the back to make it a little higher, and see if I can fix the neck to my liking, but I really don't know yet!

BWOF # 116-07-2009

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 14:05:00 +0000

Pattern Description:
The perfect dress for your dream vacation. It‘s long, flowing, sun-backed and colourful. Contrasting straps trim the plunging V-neckline, creating a pretty décolléte.
Pattern Sizing:
Burda petite/half sizes 17 – 21
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
It can, but I don't usually wear it that way.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the maxi dress and had been looking for the right pattern for a while now, it came just in time to wear to a summer wedding!
Fabric Used:
Polyester Jersey
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
None, I just wear the straps differently so I don't have so much cleavage popping out!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would definately sew this one again, probably in a solid color for a more casual look.
Conclusion:
I love this dress! The pattern on the fabric makes it a little dressy, so I might have to invent places to wear it, but I love it enough that I might just wear it around the house!

I like to twist the front straps around a little though, to get this look.

De Gracieuse?

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 14:25:00 +0000

The other day I was browsing the costume reviews on Pattern Review, and came across this interesting reference to De Gracieuse Pattern magazine. Now being the bored individual that I am, I set out to find out what that was. (the costumes were all historical)
So my first search sent me to the "Search the Netherlands" page, which had a reference to this pattern magazine. Apparently it was published in the late 19th and early 20th century. Very BWOF! And the pages have been digitally scanned! Very interesting if I do say so myself!
I can't read any of the words, So I don't even know if they are in English, and the pattern pages are completely confusing, but the illustrations are so worth spending the afternoon looking at. (well, if you like historical clothing anyway!)

Check it out here.

ps. I am researching a possible idea for a Halloween costume. Anybody want to guess what it could be?

Historical Influence?

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 17:41:00 +0000

The Commercial Pattern Archives is allowing free access to their online collection (username: guest, password: pattern) Although, I think it is only open until Tuesday. But I was browsing the site and came across this 1974 Emanual Ungaro Pattern.

Does it look familiar?

The making of a corset - Introduction

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Fri, 21 Aug 2009 18:32:00 +0000

My newest project is making a period corset. I have decided on McCalls 3609 as my starting project. I'm not sure what period the costume to go over it will be, so I started with the one that looked the easiest. I cut the muslin out of some scraps that I had on hand, because I'm not sure how this is going to turn out and am not ready to invest in all the materials just yet. I also had to modify the front and back closure for this pattern so I could use materials that were readily available.
I decided to eliminate the back closure and put the lacing in the front, so I didn't have to buy a busk (these things are not readily avaliable where I live, and I am not sure enough of the project to order all this stuff). Instead of the boning required, I just bought some tin snips and am going to use the largest size cable/zip ties that I could find.
I know that there are people out there who would find this whole idea offensive (using cheap materials / whatever I have on hand), but I have decided that this is an experiment. I really don't know how this is going to turn out, but if it works with the cheap materials, I am ahead of the game!
Stay tuned for the next installment - The Muslin!

Pattern Review - Simplicity # 3867

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Wed, 19 Aug 2009 14:46:00 +0000

Pattern Description:
Dress, top, shorts, bolero and purse.
Pattern Sizing:
I made a size 16, best fit according to my measurements.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I think so.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
These shorts were fairly simple to construct. I made them to basically start fitting pants. I know that I need to make adjustments but I thought they made a great starting pattern.
Fabric Used:
I'm not exactly sure. It came off the clearance shelves at Fabricland, and after wearing and washing it a few times, I would say it is some type of linen or linen blend.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I ended up having to take in the back darts a little more, and I think I will still take in the side seams a little, but I really think that to fit these properly I should have cut out a size 14 for the front pieces, and a 16 for the back and made the back darts a little larger. Overall, I don't think that they fit badly for a first try.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will definitely sew these again. I don't know if I will manage to do it before next summer, but hears hoping that I have a reason to!
Conclusion:
I really like this whole pattern, and have made up most of the pieces. They are fairly easy to make and fit great with your basic adjustments. This is a great summer wardrobe pattern!

BWOF #124-07-2009

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 13:54:00 +0000

Pattern Description:
You‘ll get a lot of use out of this versatile top that you can wrap around your waist as you please. For evening, team it with a sexy skirt for a head-turning outfit!
Pattern Sizing:
Burda Sizes 34-42
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like that it was a quick an easy pattern. But it has already dissapeared from the closet because it is simply too low in the back! (My bra strap would normally sit about where the tan lines are). I also found it to be a tad bit too short, but I have a long torso and like my tops to be on the longer side, it would probably be just fine on an average person.
Fabric Used:
Polyester Jersey
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
None.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I won't be making this again, but if you don't need to wear a bra, this is a quick and easy pattern.
Conclusion:
I really think this would be a great pattern for the younger sewers out there, it is quick and easy and they won't mind the low back!

BWOF # 113-06-2009

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Fri, 14 Aug 2009 21:21:00 +0000

Pattern Description:
This strapless jersey tunic is guaranteed to not slip out of place! The figure-hugging bust section with front darts is covered with a wrap-over piece and fitted with elastic casing for extra support
Pattern Sizing:
Burda sizes 34 – 42  
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Other than my alterations
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I read through them, but I know that I read a few reviews before attempting this top, so I kind of knew how it was going to go before I started.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This pattern needed to have a FBA and I did not do one, so it always seems to be up to high. The pattern calls for double layers of each piece on the top plus a lining layer, which makes for ten layers in the side seams, I think that is simply not needed. I only cut out a single layer for each piece.
Fabric Used:
Polyester Jersey
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I had read about the amazing amount of layers that Burda said you should sew together and since I know that this fabric is tricky as is, I just went for the single layer of each pattern piece. I also added straps to hide bra straps because I knew I would be wearing one with this top.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This is a great summer top and I really enjoy it, if I were to sew it again, I would make the top pieces about two inches longer and shorten the bottom pieces by at least three inches.
Conclusion:
This is a great summer top!

Hello Again!

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Wed, 12 Aug 2009 00:54:00 +0000

So we have just returned from our travels! Now just short trips in the area until winter, How I miss my home!
I have a backlog of pattern reviews to do, so stay tuned for a bunch! And now is the time to start planning the family Halloween costumes. I have so many ideas and only one day to wear them all! I may have to declare the whole week a costume wearing holiday! (Maybe a little too much!)
And I have finally caught up on my blog reading that I have been neglecting as well! Taken me most of two days, but it is done! (and I even found a few more that I like! Oh, dear!) Now off to clean my house because with all the galavanting around, that is sorely neglected as well!

Pattern Review - Butterick #5024

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Mon, 10 Aug 2009 22:22:00 +0000

Pattern Description:
A-line dress, mid knee has fitted, lined, mock wrapped bodice, raised waistline, stitched pleats, back zipper and purchased trim.
Pattern Sizing:
I cut a 14 (I am a 16 according to the envelope sizing and I can't remember why I cut it smaller now)
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very easy. I was worried that the zipper would give me trouble, but I just basted it in and it worked out better than I imagined it would!
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This is a quick and easy pattern for a summer dress, which is what I was looking for.
Fabric Used:
I think it is a rayon. (it was a hand-me down piece of fabric)
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
None. This pattern is great fitting. Any extra ease was taken out when I put in the zipper.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This pattern lends itself to so many variations depending on the fabric and trim that it is a great summer dress (could be a day dress in cotton and an evening dress in satin!) I have so many dress patterns to make that I don't know if I can make it again, but if I have the time I will and I absolutely recommend it!
Conclusion:
This is a great pattern for a beginner sewer and is flattering on so many body types!

So Behind!

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 17:23:00 +0000

I am so behind in my pattern reviews! I have actually made something from the June and July issue of Burda, but can't seem to find the time to sit down and do up the review! Lazy Me!
Hope for me to finish it soon!

My Newest Baby!

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Fri, 26 Jun 2009 16:44:00 +0000

A lovely lady in my local Freecycle group was offering this machine and Of Course, I jumped at the opportunity to give it a home! I have no idea what model it is or when it was made, so if any of you have any places to look for help, I would love to hear from you!
I plugged it in and it seems to work, but will probably need some oil and TLC. Heaven knows that I have just figured out how to take care of my machines that came with manuals!

But I must say that she is beautiful! Now if only I could get my hands on a treadle machine, I think I would be in heaven!

***Edited***
So after a little research on the Singer site, I now know that this machine was manufactured in 1954 in St. John's Newfoundland.

June BWOF

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Wed, 24 Jun 2009 15:06:00 +0000

I have received my BWOF subscription and I think it is so great. As of now, I have managed to trace out a few patterns, and have made the tunic from the June issue(#113), pictures will follow. All I can say is that now I can look forward to getting the mail!
I only hope that I can find the time to make up some of these great patterns like all the other ladies! (Man can some of you be productive!)

Simplicity # 4177

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Wed, 24 Jun 2009 02:36:00 +0000

Pattern Description:
Misses Tunic Top with sleeve variations
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the ease with which this pattern went together. It is a great summer blouse.
Fabric Used:
I think it is a rayon or polyester blend. Given to me by my MIL
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
None
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would love to sew this one again, probably with the longer sleeves.
Conclusion:
This is a simple and easy summer top.

Still Making Christmas Presents?

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 19:31:00 +0000

You know that you are behind when you have just finished last years presents in May!
This was supposed to be a Birthday Present for my mother, and her birthday is Christmas, so I am terribly late! I haven't actually had the energy to sew anything lately, but this project seems to have perked me up. This was made with the most beautiful cotton fabric that I found in our local quilting shop. The pattern is the Jocole Bag (Free download) on Burdastyle.
I actually love this pattern and have one myself. I is fairly simple and straightforward to make, although, I have never managed to get the interfacing peices to fit in right, I usually do an extra row of topstiching on the contrast band to make sure that it stays where it is supposed to.
I so love this fabric that I may have to make one for myself (since I only have about 0.5m left!)

BWOF

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Tue, 19 May 2009 19:38:00 +0000

So I know that everyone already knows about Burda Magazines, but I finally broke down and orders some from ebay. And now I think I am hooked! I love the photos and the drawings, and even the fact that you have to trace out the pattern, because that makes me want to try the adjustments that I know I need to start doing! So I asked for a subscription for Mothers Day. Now I am just eagerly awaiting my first issue (hoping that it will be soon, cause I saw some patterns in the June issue that look like i would love!)

My First Recycle Project

noreply@blogger.com (cheryl) — Tue, 24 Feb 2009 19:02:00 +0000

This is the first time I have attempted to make something from something else. I find it takes a different thought process than just cutting and sewing from a pattern.I had bought this skirt a few years ago because I really loved the print and color. The skirt itself was just so-so. I found it quite poufy and too long. Now I could have just hemmed it and perhaps that would have helped, but I have a shortage of shirts that fit lately.

Enter my favorite shirt pattern!
I made this particular shirt for my post/transitional maternity wardrobe and love it to pieces. Now I have two!