My Bella Vita

Travel Tip Tuesday: Calabria’s Airports

My Bella Vita — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 04:00:28 +0000

Many Calabria-bound travelers are unsure of how to get to Calabria without either driving from their first point in Italy or taking a train from their international arrival point, which is usually Rome. Given the overwhelming number of times I’ve been asked about airport options-and the few times I’ve been told, “I heard there are no airports there,” I thought I should clear things up.

Calabria is serviced by three airports-Lamezia Terme International Airport, Reggio Calabria’s Aeroporto dello Stretto and the Sant’ Anna Airport in Crotone. *All three of these airports are easy to navigate and offer direct flights from major Italian destinations. Here is a breakdown of what to expect in each of Calabria’s airports.

Lamezia Terme International Airport (Airport Code: SUF)

Lamezia Terme, located in central Calabria is home to the region’s biggest and busiest airport. Still … it is all relative. The airport has flights to Italian destinations such as Rome, Milan, Venice, Torino and Bologna and international destinations in cities in Germany, France and Holland. Seasonal flights are available on AirTransat to Montreal and Toronto.

The airport has both paid and free parking lots, on-site rental car agencies, a restaurant and bar, Calabrese souvenir shops and offers paid transfers to the nearby Lamezia Terme Centrale train station.

Società Aeroportuale Calabrese S.p.A.
S. Fufemia Aeroporto
88040 Lamezia Terme (CZ)
Telephone: +39.0968.414333
Email: info@sacal.it

Aeroporto dello Stretto (Airport Code: REG)

Aeroporto dello Stretto, or Airport of the Straits, is a nice option for travelers who want to visit southern Calabria. The airport is smaller than Lamezia and offers domestic flights to places such as Rome, Milan, and Bergamo and international flights to Paris, Madrid and Malta.

The airport has two parking lots, various Calabrian-focused shops and a self-catering bar. Transfer services are available via boat, bus and car and various car rental agencies are located outside the airport.

Società di Gestione per l’Aeroporto dello Stretto
Via Provinciale Ravagnese, 11
89131 Reggio Calabria (Italy)
Telephone: +39.0965.640517
info@aeroportodellostretto.it

Aeroporto Sant’ Anna (Airport Code: CRV)

Sant’ Anna is the smallest of the three airports and is used mainly by business travelers who commute between Calabria and Rome, Milan, Bologna, Venice or Brescia. However, it is also useful for travelers to be aware of the airport, as I once saved several hundred dollars by flying into Lamezia and out of Crotone.

The airport has both free and paid parking, a small restaurant and a few shops. Car rentals and taxis are available.

Società Aeroporto S. Anna S.p.A.
S.S. 106 – Loc. S. Anna
88841 Isola di Capo Rizzuto (KR)
Telephone: +39.0962.794388
Email: aeroporto@aeroporto.kr.it

* This information was accurate at the time of publication, however routes and destinations vary by season and change often. Please verify routes by visiting the airport’s website (listed above).

Don’t forget to visit Robin at My Melange and see what travel tips she has today.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photos: Bakeca Milano,Wikipedia Commons and Provincia di Crotone

***I want to send a grand AUGURI to my little sister who is hitting a milestone birthday today and entering the first year in her new decade! Happy Birthday, Charlee! ***

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Tips for Adjusting to Life When You are Married to a Foreigner

My Bella Vita — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 04:00:15 +0000

I get a lot of hits and a good deal of personal emails from people who are either involved in a long-distance relationship with an Italian or are planning to tie the knot with a foreigner and want to talk to someone “who’s been there.” Interestingly enough, I’m actually the “foreigner,” in this relationship, but since this is my blog-and he rarely reads it-we’re not going to worry about that detail.

Here are five tips I’ve picked up on adjusting to life when you are married to a foreigner.

1. Embrace Both Cultures
This might sound like common sense, but it is harder than you might think. I’ve found that in order for us to blend our cultures, we have to make a conscious effort to 1) learn about each other’s culture and 2) appreciate the differences. Some ideas we’ve found that help us embrace both cultures include varying our dinner recipes (for example, we had both Tex-Mex and Chinese food last week), watching both Italian and American sports (Forza Azzurri … uhm, How ’bout them Cowboys?!?) and even learning to watch and enjoy movies, shows and music from both countries.

2. Celebrate Holidays
Along those same lines, make an effort to celebrate each other’s cultural holidays. We are typically in the US for the Christmas season where La Befana has yet to travel, yet, lucky us-she stops by each year. While we don’t exchange gifts, we acknowledge the day and give La Befana gifts (that we’ve brought from Italy) to the kids in the family. Here in Italy, we celebrate, albeit without the fireworks, on July 4 and today-America’s Labor Day-we’re having burgers for lunch.

3. Learn Each Other’s Language
With the exception of #4 (see below) this might be the toughest tip of all. Yet, in the four years since I’ve lived here (and learned Italian) I can see a difference in how I relate to, and how much more I understand, my husband. There are some quirky habits in both of our languages that used to stump, confuse or even anger us. However, now that we know each language, we understand each other’s intent and that goes a long way in ensuring a happy marriage.

4. Don’t get Defensive
I think this is more of an issue for the native spouse, who’s expat partner can easily become stressed, irritated or frustrated by her new country’s nuances, but it is important not to get defensive. My husband is pretty great at this (if I can brag a bit) and lets me get away with mini rants and raves. In return, I try to keep them to a minimum and defuse my own defensive nature when he has something unflattering to say about the US.

5. Be Patient
Patience is the key to any successful marriage, but especially if you are with someone from a different culture, you should give them the benefit of the doubt (an expression I had a hell of a time explaining to my husband a few years ago) and be patient. For the native spouse, try to understand what your expat partner is going through, how she misses her family, friends and culture and be patient when she is moody or frustrated. For the expat partner, be patient with yourself and know that with time, you’ll begin to feel a real connection to your new home and those little things that once seemed oh-so important, will begin to fade.

They say marriage is never easy and I imagine a union of people from two different cultures, languages and traditions has even more obstacles to overcome. But remember what you saw in that person when you decided to move, or in some cases permanently stay, in a different country. Those are the things that are really important-the rest are just details. And remember … we’re not going to worry about those.

Traveling to southern Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photos: Damon Green via Flickr and our personal wedding album

This post was written on behalf of AffordableCallingCards.net, a site that sells, in addition to other things, affordable calling cards to Italy. If you are interested in reading more about expat life, visit their expat community section of their site.

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Italian Coffee Terms Explained

My Bella Vita — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 04:00:03 +0000

With the recent influx of English-speaking guests visiting our B&B, it has come to my attention everyone might not get Italian coffee. Sure, Starbucks taught us the words “Cappuccino,” “Macchiato,” even “Grande,” … for its worth, but if you want a true Italian coffee experience, there are a few things you should know.

I’ve been collecting notes on Italian coffee and had even scribbled in a publication date on My Bella Vita’s editorial calendar, but avid traveler and coffeeholic Cecil Lee of Travel Feeder beat me to the punch. Below, you’ll find his description of what he has learned about Italian coffee, along with some of my notes tossed in … ’cause I can’t help myself!

***

Like many of my globetrotting colleagues, I’m addicted to coffee and depend on that hot, steamy cup of mud to get me through my day. I also thrive on taste-testing different varieties of coffee and trying-and comparing-them in each country I visit. And who, you ask, is the hands down winner in my book for best coffee?

Why, Italy, of course.

On my recent trip through the country, I found myself visiting Italian bars … more often than I should, and besides learning to inhale my coffee at the bar-like the locals do!-I picked up a few new coffee terms to add to my Italian-language repertoire.

The most common varieties of Italian coffee you will see on the menu are “Cappuccino,” “Americano,” and “Caffè.” But for those of you who’d like to try something different, here are some, possibly new, Italian coffee terms to help you along the way.

- Caffè: In other parts of the world it is called “espresso,” but in Italy, it is simply called “Caffè.” Expect it to be served in a small cup and order “caffè” – not espresso.

- Americano: One or two shots of espresso diluted with hot water

- Cappuccino: Espresso topped with frothed milk (Cherrye’s note: An Italian cappuccino is sometimes sprinkled with cocoa powder and is my preferred morning drink here in Italy. In fact, I’ve been known to sulk like a little girl if they forget to add my cocoa.)

- Corretto: One shot of espresso mixed or “corrected” with a shot of liquor, normally Grappa or Brandy

- Caffè Shakerato: A shot of espresso that is mixed with sugar and ice and then shaken until it is frothy. (Cherrye’s note: In many bars in Calabria, a caffè shakerato is made with cold milk or hazelnut gelato … . Yowsers, talk about delicious!)

- Caffelatte: Not to be confused with “latte,” the Italian word for milk, a caffelatte is just a mix of espresso and milk and is my personal favorite

- Caffè Doppio: We call it a double espresso in Malaysia, and in Italy it is just two shots of regular ole Italian espresso

- Macchiato: A shot of espresso topped with a dollop of frothed milk (Cherrye’s note: If you are looking for something a bit sweeter, why not ask for a Caffè Bacio, a macchiato that is drizzled with warm melted chocolate … like the sweet chocolaty “kiss” it is.)

- Caffè D’Orzo: A coffee substitute that is brewed with roasted barley

- Caffè con Panna: A shot of espresso that is topped with thick whipped cream

(Cherrye’s note: Similar to a caffè con panna, a Caffè alla Nocciola (hazelnut coffee) is a shot of espresso that is served with hazelnut and topped with slivers of fresh hazelnuts. In some bars it is served with the hazelnut paste they use in their pastries, while other bars serve it with hazelnut gelato. Recipes vary, but the result is usually the same … and I bet you know what I mean. Delizioso!)

Thanks, Cecil. If you’d like to know more about ordering an Italian coffee in Italy, you can read up on that over at Ms. Adventures in Italy, pick up more Italian coffee terms with Jessica at Why Go Italy or create your own caffè shakerato like I do … my recipe is right here.

So, Cecil and I shared our favorite Italian coffee drinks with you-won’t you do the same? What is your Italian coffee of choice in or out of the bel paese?

Cecil Lee is a passionate travel blogger and photographer living in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. He writes about travel for MNUI travel insurance and on his own travel photo blog, Travel Feeder.

Traveling to southern Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photos: Cecil Lee

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Travel Tip Tuesday: Tips for Reducing Stress When Traveling

My Bella Vita — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 04:00:28 +0000

Traveling-walking through a new country, adapting to a new culture, learning new words or phrases, dining on new-and sometimes unidentifiable-food … it is all part of the experience travelers crave upon entering a new land. Unfortunately, along with those new sounds, sights and smells, comes a healthy dose of stress, but that doesn’t have to damper your vacation.

Today’s Travel Tip Tuesday is written by my nomadic friend Andi, of My Beautiful Adventures, and is all about avoiding or eliminating travel-related stress. Welcome, Andi.

***

In the last 6 months I have been to 5 different continents and have taken several domestic trips. And believe it or not, I actually consider that a slow travel schedule! On my trips around the world I have stayed in hostels to B&Bs to luxury hotels and I have ridden in trains to boats to rickshaws. Thus, you could say that I am a bit of a travel pro.

The following are some tips I’ve picked up over the years to ensure as stress-free of a trip as possible … because if there is one thing I can guarantee you about travel, besides every trip changing your life in some amazing way, it is that you will always encounter stress of some kind.

1. Research. Now, I do not believe that before embarking on a trip every single second of every day should be planned. You must leave room for elements of surprise! However, your trip will definitely run more smoothly if you research your destination beforehand. There are copious travel websites and blogs on the internet with incredibly helpful information. Learn about the public transportation, important sites to visit, and recommended restaurants and hotels. It is also of the upmost importance to learn some key words in the language of the country you are visiting.

2. Carry a travel wallet. Buy yourself an affordable travel wallet and carry it with you to your destination. (I use this one!) Inside include your passport and/or license, a print-out of the confirmation from where you will be staying the first night, some currency of the country you are in, a phone number of a taxi service, if needed, along with other important phone numbers, and a pen. If you must go through customs, this will make the experience easier and faster.

3. Do not be ruled by fear. I get frustrated when I see article after article focusing on how to stay safe and avoid danger while traveling. Of course I think it is important to make smart decisions regarding your safety while traveling, but I also think it is important to not let fear stop you from having extraordinary and unforgettable experiences. I think it is vital to step outside your comfort zone and be open to new experiences.

4. Use public transportation, when possible. If you have done advanced research, you will already know whether public transportation is a good option. If so, it is often the cheapest and most efficient mode on transport, not to mention it an interesting way to see a new place. Plus, you never know who you might meet along the way.

5. Pamper yourself. If you do find yourself stressed while traveling, take some time or even a day to either indulge by going to a spa or seeing a movie. Sometimes a quick break from “being on the road” is all that is needed to de-stress and get you back in the traveling mindset. Also, I suggest bringing something from home that will help relax you further, like a lovely smelling candle or a comfortable blanket.

Alright, world travelers-what tips would you add to help others have a less-stressful vacation?

Andrea Perullo is a Chinese Medicine Doctor by day, travel addict by night. When she is not treating patients, she is exploring the world or dreaming of the next place to visit. She also writes travel features for MNUI Travel Insurance and blogs at My Beautiful Adventures.

Don’t forget to visit Robin at My Melange and read up on some of her travel tips today, too.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio.

Traveling to the south of Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

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A Few of my All-Time Favorite Italy-themed Posts

My Bella Vita — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 04:00:19 +0000

I’ve spent hundreds of hours over the last few years reading blog posts and articles about Italy-many of which were written by my real-life expat friends and blogging buddies. Some of those posts serve their immediate purpose, offering a good laugh, a useful tip or an encouraging word of expat life-related advice. Other times, they stick with you and years later you can still recall the message.

Here are some of my personal all-time favorite posts and articles about Italy I’ve remembered over the years.

100 Things to Know if you are Going to Italy, by Vanessa of ItalyinSF: Be prepared to spend some time devouring this huge list, which serves as a great first-timers guide to Italy. While I don’t necessarily agree with all 100 points (I’m thinking that’s the differences between the north and south), I have always loved this post and have recommended it often to first-time travelers.

Why Won’t my Child Speak to Me in English?, by Caroline at Globetrotting Parent: Ahhh … this is an oldie … circa 2008 and in fact, I searched her archives a good 45 minutes before I found it. (Although yes … I admit to getting side-tracked by newer posts I encountered mid-search.) As an American married to an Italian-who already speaks four languages-we are adamant about teaching our children languages and I’ve referred to Caroline’s site and this post in particular many times over the last few years.

Going back even a few more years, we have Gym Tales: Making Friends by Sara of Ms. Adventures in Italy: Maybe it is because it is one of the first posts I read of Sara’s, but the mental image of her would-be gym pal struggling with her internal issues always stuck with me. I feel like Sara revised and reposted this tale at some point, but the link above points to the original. Enjoy!

Love Thursday: A Grandmother’s Influence, by Michelle of Bleeding Espresso: I *love*love*love* this post that was written by Michelle on what would have been her grandmother’s 83rd birthday back in January, 2007. Not only is it cleverly written but you finish the post feeling a little sad that you never got to work a crossword in Mam Mam’s smoke-filled home (and then have some of that bubbling tomato sauce for dinner).

Other times my favorite posts aren’t touching or nostalgic, but just downright funny, as is the case with My Name is Peppino, by Joe of ItalyVille: I’m actually still laughing about the post as I write this up-which may be because my father-in-law calls my slightly-graying husband, Peppinuccio, so I can relate … but oh … I won’t ruin it for you. Go read it yourself.

What are some of your all-time favorite Italy-themed posts? Leave a comment or link below in case I missed them.

Traveling to southern Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photo: Ace on Tech

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Continental Airlines: Review of a Customer Service Experience

My Bella Vita — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 04:00:58 +0000

With my Auntie Adventures a not-so fading memory, I now have time to go through my “draft” folder here at My Bella Vita and pull out some posts that are a long time coming. Reviewing a recent customer service experience I had with Continental Airlines is one of those posts.

Continental Airlines has long been my carrier of choice. They were there for my first flight-which I still have the cocktail napkin to prove, carried me safely to and from my local airport in Beaumont, Texas and have allowed me cash in a *free* international flight-when I most needed it-with my frequent flyer miles.

Overall, it’s been a good run.

So …

I was surprised earlier this year when I had trouble booking my nephew’s flight from Texas. No, It wasn’t a simple shop and select purchase. He was flying with me from Texas, then returning to Texas with friends a month later. We’d already purchased our tickets, thus, it looked like poor Cole was an unattended minor, flying solo.

It was a tough booking.

Since you’ve heard tale of lungomare love and bare boobs on the beach, you know we eventually made a purchase, thus ensuring young Cole a summer he’d never forget.

Here’s a quick recap of how that happened.

Sunday, May 2: I looked on Continental.com and found a round-trip ticket for Cole for $850. I tried to purchase the ticket, but since it appeared he was unaccompanied, the system tried to charge me additional fees. I emailed customer service using their online form.

Tuesday, May 4: When I hadn’t received a response from Continental, I rechecked their site, found the price was slightly higher and resent a message via their contact form.

Thursday, May 6: I woke up Thursday morning to an empty Inbox, checked Continental’s website and found that the price for Cole’s ticket had skyrocketed to $3,103.00, plus tax.

I immediately began searching for a “real, live, breathing person” … as I was almost certain that even in the airline industry, they do exist and quickly found that Traveler’s Best Friend, Christopher Elliott, had it covered. I discovered a cheat sheet, of sorts, with a snippet about Continental, some important email addresses and tips on who and how to approach them.

Using all of my freelance writing know-how, I drafted the sweetest, kindest email possible, addressed it to both the Director and Staff VP of Customer Care, told them about my difficulties booking the ticket, how I’d tried to reach them for several days and about the prohibitively-expensive price increase.

I told them I understood how busy they were-they’d just announced the United merger a few days earlier-and stressed how much I enjoyed flying with Continental. I included my OnePass number and confirmation numbers from my previous contact form attempts.

A couple of hours later, I received a response from the Staff VP, indicating he had read my email and telling me a Sr. Customer Service Manager would contact me that day.

That afternoon-Italy time-I received an email from Diane, a customer service manager, saying she’d used my OnePass contact information to reach me and had left a message at my home in Texas. She listed times when she was available and implied we’d be able to resolve the issue.

I immediately returned her call.

She was friendly, understanding and interested in my unique situation … in short, she was everything an airline’s customer service manager should be. She even allowed me a “grace period” to book Cole’s connecting flights (on a different airline) so I could ensure all of our tickets would match up accordingly.

A few days later we booked his flight and a day or two after that, she sent a follow-up message confirming receipt of his e-ticket.

I was impressed.

Lately, air travelers are met with increased fees, decreased services, intolerance, impatience, unkindness … a blatant lack of appreciation. Continental’s actions set the tone for my nephew’s sun-kissed summer and without them, he would have had the same ‘ole southeast Texas experience he’s had every year. So, Diane, Martin and the rest of Continental’s customer service team … thank you.

Or, as Cole would say … grascia mille!

Traveling to southern Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

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Travel Tip Tuesday: How to Pack a Carry-on Suitcase

My Bella Vita — Tue, 24 Aug 2010 04:00:25 +0000

Last week’s Travel Tip Tuesday post listed five reasons why you should switch to carry-on only-and Facebook fans and commenters listed many more. After that post, I had a few FB comments and even an email or two asking me how I do it.

I’ve listed my general carry-on list before, but here are five tips to help you pack your carry on for an international trip.

1. Use Your Personal Item
With few (new) exceptions, you are allowed to board the plane with one personal item in addition to your carry on bag. Many women carry a purse, some people carry a laptop or briefcase, but whatever you use, make sure it is large enough to allow space for stashing extras like your camera, iPod, makeup or books.

2. … and Then One
Ok, so yes, I’m technically cheating here but how many times have you boarded the plane with your one carry on and personal item and seen people in front of you with a big shopping bag filled with their latest airport purchase? You know it happens … .

So, if I’m borderline on space, I pack my own shopping bag and use it to hold the items I’ll need in-flight, such as iPod, book, magazine, journal and my Ziploc bag of liquids. A bonus here is that I am always prepared when I board and don’t have to go through my zipped carry on to look for my essentials.

3. Use Extra Shoes
Sure, you can pack socks and underwear inside the space of your packed shoes, but you might also be able to squeeze in a hairbrush, PJs … undershirts. If it doesn’t need to be wrinkle-free, roll it up and stuff it inside. That’s just free space waiting to be used.

4. Always Cut
You knew this was coming, didn’t you? The easiest way to pack a carry on only suitcase for an international trip is to eliminate the amount of stuff you pack. Simple, non?

If you are having a hard time with this, then think back to the last two or three trips you took and remove any items you didn’t use. If you didn’t use it last time, you probably wouldn’t use it this time-and you will be thankful for the extra space for souvenirs.

5. Bundle Wrap
If you can’t seem to cut enough from your list, then consider bundle wrapping. There is an actual technique to it, so be sure to click that link and read up on it-and follow the diagrams-if you are interested.

I’ve used a similar technique of wrapping clothes around a main object and had great success, however, nine times out of ten, I’d rather eliminate the item than pack it.

I *never* pack a hairdryer-and with the unfortunate exception of my honeymoon-I’ve never missed it. What one item would you recommend people toss?

I’m sure Robin at My Melange would have something wise to say about this. Be sure to check out some of her travel tips today, too.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photo: Queen of Subtle.

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Watch Your Mouth! Three Words You Shouldn’t Say in Italian

My Bella Vita — Fri, 20 Aug 2010 04:00:47 +0000

Some of my favorite-and most popular-posts are about the complex, intriguing, sometimes difficult, but always charming … bella lingua italiana. A couple of months ago, Jessica from Why Go Italy shared her favorite Italian words, a week later, I listed five of mine and Melanie from Italofile started a meme that lists favorite Italian words over on her site.

In the meme, Melanie asked us to refrain from parolacce, so I write this post in no official manner and with no affiliation with afore-mentioned Italofile meme.

But really. Everyone loves Italian swear words. In fact, my previous post on the subject is one of my most-visited pages and I often get searched by Italophiles looking to cuss.

So, my friends. Here you have them. Three more of my favorite Italian curse words. In no particular order … .

1. Minchia
The first time I went to Sicily my husband told me to listen up for the word “minchia” … and in fact, we heard it everywhere we went. Minchia, Sicilian dialect for dick, is usually either drawn out, as in “miiiiiiinkea,” or shorted, as in “meee,” and can be used to express shock, like, “wow, that sucks,” or “oh, shit!”

Possibly the funniest time I heard this word, we were walking down one of Palermo’s main streets and passed a mom and her-oh, I’d say seven year old-son. The mom pointed at something and the little boy, with his precious eyes and sweet little face responded, “Meeee … .”

2. Stronza
You might be familiar with the more widely used masculine version of the word, “stronzo,” meaning “asshole” or “bastard,” but, my friends, should you meet a girl you don’t like and feel the need to call her an ugly name, you could say … stronza!

I learned this word early on from my husband’s cute-as-pie cousin who was mad at a girl from her local gym. She ranted, told us the story and ended with … “Mah! E’ una stronza!”

I like it.

3. Che Palle
“Che palle,” literally-”what balls-” is used when you want to say something is a pain in the ass. This term is so common down here in Calabria that I can’t even remember the first time I heard it. It is usually said with exasperation, as are many significant Italian words, and is followed with a myriad of hand gestures and sighs.

So … tell me. What are some of your favorite Italian swear words?

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photo: New Like Me

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If You are What You Eat, What Does That Say About Sicily’s Milza?

My Bella Vita — Wed, 18 Aug 2010 04:00:16 +0000

Earlier this week I wrote a guest post for Mangia Monday, a weekly column over at Wanderlust Women Travel. The site’s owner, Lisa Fantino was interested in how Sicilians are taking a bite out of crime and it reminded her of some of her favorite culinary memories as a child.

Welcome, Lisa.

“You are what you eat, takes on new meaning with Sicilian comfort food!”

Some people eat to live and others live to eat…………….as someone with Sicilian blood coursing through her veins, I can tell you that Italians clearly live to eat. They have a love affair with food that begins the moment they cut their first molar to and doesn’t end even when old age has taken their teeth. All of this comes with good reason – because Italian food is fantastico. OK, I may be biased here but isn’t all comfort food the food we’ve eaten since birth? Well, for me that meant voosteddi on special occasions.

“Holy cannoli what is a voosteddi,” you must be saying. I had no idea but I knew it was a treat. My Papa Cicio would venture to New York’s Little Italy weekly and on some of those return trips home I would be lucky enough to get voosteddi. It was like a special snack because the whole experience was made special.

It would start with a call from Papa to Nana saying he was on his way home……..she in turn would find me and tell me voosteddi were on the way. I would wait with tummy growling, anxious for Papa to walk through that door carrying a brown bag loaded with greasy sandwiches from the heavens.

It was a ritual. Papa, Zio Vincenzo and I would gather around the kitchen table sucking down these divine bits of culinary pleasure, often joined by my cousin if he happened to be around, as Italian sons usually show up when it’s time to eat! The paper thin slices of what looked like beef were layered on the softest bread with just a dollop of ricotta and maybe some grated cheese. That was it. They went down so smoothly and I knew they had to be special because even Nana didn’t dare make these in her kitchen and she cooked EVERYTHING…..even capozzelli (Lamb’s head right down to the eyeballs)

No one would tell me where these voostedi came from – it was top secret and reportedly happened down a back alley at a door which required a special knock. I kid you not. You can’t make this stuff up and maybe you just have to be Sicilian to appreciate it.

When I was about 18 or 19, maybe even 20, I dared to ask Papa what was in a voosteddi, just in case I wanted to make one. He wouldn’t tell me. “You like it, then mangia,” he would say, twisting his knuckle into the side of his cheek with a smile on his face. That was the Sicilian hand gesture, and everything has one, that meant delizioso.

Well, I happened to be the straight chick to my Zio and cousin’s twisted sense of humor. My Zio figured he would tell me straight, “It’s bull’s balls.”

“Ew, that’s disgusting. It is not.”

“You asked and then you don’t like the answer, so just eat it, you’ve been eating it all these years.”

So I begin dissecting the sandwich, peeking between the slices of bread as if I would know what a bull’s testicle would look like when it was cooked. My cousin agrees with Zio and I do not trust this Goombah Johnny routine. Something smells like bull, if you pardon the pun.

I now finish the voosteddi, not knowing if I should waft down another or be sick to my stomach on one of the delicacies which has sustained me since I could chew.

OK, Nana would never, ever lie to me, not me. I was her #1.

“Nana, what’s in a voosteddi?”

“Bull’s balls,” she says without skipping a beat!

Nooooooooo – help me. This is the Italian kid’s versions of sliders and they were destroying me.

It wasn’t until years later, long after Papa Cicio and Nana were gone that I researched voosteddi only to learn that the mystery meat is really a cow’s spleen. Sounds kind of disgusting but oh so yummy and oh how I long for those days in Nana’s kitchen again!

NOTE: Cherrye has referred to these Sicilian treats as milza. I have seen them spelled vastedda. It’s all about dialect in Italy and with DNA from Palermo and Corleone, is anyone gonna mess with me on pronunciation?

Lisa Fantino is an award-winning journalist and attorney and the Italy travel consultant behind Wanderlust Women Travel and the Italian destination wedding site Wanderlust Weddings. She also writes travel features for MNUI Travel Insurance and blogs as Lady Litigator.

Interested in reading more about Sicily?

Check out my post today at Bleeding Espresso’s Gita Italiana-we’re talking about getting to Sicily’s Aeolian Islands from various points in Calabria or click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photos: Papero Giallo and Eating in Translation via Flickr.

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Restaurant Review: Villa Marinella in La Sila National Park

My Bella Vita — Mon, 16 Aug 2010 04:00:31 +0000

There are many places you can go when you are traveling in Calabria near Catanzaro … you could see Le Castella, visit the ruins in Roccelletta or spend a morning driving through Sila Piccola in La Sila National Park.

And that, my friends, is what I want to talk about today.

If you’ve spent much time on this site, you know one of my favorite destinations in Calabria is La Sila. Maybe it is because I grew up in flat-land, Texas and love the idea of driving through winding mountain roads. Maybe it is the clean, fresh air-99.9% pure, or so they say … or maybe it is the view, from every little corner, of a glistening lake, a canopy of pine trees or a village, with bright Italian roofs dotting the landscape.

Or maybe it is because *the best restaurant I’ve been to in Italy* is located there.

Yes, I said it. The best restaurant in Italy.

… or at least, the best one I’ve been to … Villa Marinella.

Last fall my husband and I accidentally discovered this place when our old-faithful Silan restaurant of choice was booked. We drove the kilometer or so to Villaggio Racise and pulled in front of Villa Marinella.

They were busy-hustling and bustling, serving diners, smiling at each other, ensuring a positive pranzo experience for everyone they saw … even us.

“Do you have a reservation?” They asked.

Blushing, we looked down at the floor … “No, we don’t.”

“That’s ok!” The handsome, if I can say so, server told us. “We’ll find something for you. Just give us a few minutes.”

And they did.

I can’t remember all of the details, only dish after dish (after dish after dish after dish) being plopped in front of us-grilled eggplant and zucchini, stuffed eggplant, homemade sausage, cheese and prosciutto, five-count ‘em … five!-different samples of primi plates, including porcini crepes and spinach cannoloni … and homemade wine-direct from their personal vineyard near Lamezia-all for, get this, €18 a person.

We’ve returned to Villa Marinella several times since that day, usually for special occasions-like my birthday in January or a beautiful spring day in May and we love to take our friends there when they are visiting.

Just last week, we went again. This time, the restaurant was bare-just one other family in the corner and Luigi, the same cute, friendly server, grinning at the door.

“Is it too late?” We asked, since it was well after 2:00 and we knew the family-only staff might want to rest before the dinner rush.

“No,” he insisted. “Not at all. Choose your seat.”

We did and he immediately came over to offer suggestions.

“Our friend is here from Spain,” my husband told him. “So let’s just do a small antipasto-only with homemade stuff.”

“It’s all ours,” Luigi told us. “How about some prosciutto, salami, cheese and a mixed hot antipasto plate to share?”

“Ok,” my husband said. “But not too much and really, only bring the stuff you make yourselves.”

“But we make it all ourselves,” Luigi repeated proudly. “Even the prosciutto, it is ours, too.”

We ok’d the antipasto order and moved on to first and second plates.

“We have gnocchi alla crema di zucca,” he said, and listed a few other pasta dishes made with mushrooms and meat.

Luckily for me, I misunderstood “all zucca,” thought he said “alla zucchine” and ordered a sampler primi plate with half of the gnocchi dish and half pasta with pancetta and mushrooms.

And it was the best lingual mistake I’ve ever made.

Luigi and one of his cousins brought out the primi plates and both boys dove head first into my plate of gnocchi.

“They are fabulous.”
“Delicious.”
“Best thing I’ve ever eaten.”

“His mom made them,” his cousin said, as she dropped off a few more plates and bounced back to the kitchen.

“Your mom?” I asked Luigi. “Mamma mia-che brava!”

“Yes,” he nodded, the same proud, patience smile fixed on us. “She makes all of the primi plates.

“My aunt makes all of the second dishes, my uncle and cousins do the cold antipasto, my sister does the hot antipasto and together my uncle and sister make desserts and “command” the kitchen. My dad organizes the main dining room and works the bar and my brother and I seat people, serve them their meals and work at the register.”

His eyes twinkled. “We all work here together. From the time we are about seven we start carrying water to people, offering them coffee, talking to our guests. We are so lucky.”

He turned toward the kitchen.

“Oh, by the way,” he told the boys, as he turned back to look at us. “The sausage you are eating is from our final pig last winter.”

He pointed out the window, “We have all of our gardens over there-and when we aren’t here, we are all together over there working in the land.”

He let out a long, happy sigh. “There is always something to do.”

He smiled, shrugged and walked away.

I continued to work on my gnocchi mountain, my head spinning in a drunken stupor, as the soft potato dumplings and light cream sauce danced on my tongue. The boys, already digging into their sausage and Silan potatoes, were quiet. There was nothing else to be said.

We all felt we had been let in on a family secret-a little slice of the Bianco family’s life-a tale that made us love them-and their homemade everything-even more.

Villa Marinella
88050 Villaggio Racise
Taverna (CZ)

I think the pillars of a great restaurant are fresh ingredients, consistency and service-and Villa Marinella has all three. What do you think is the most important thing to look for in a restaurant?

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

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Auntie Adventures: “But, Cici … It’s the Real Deal!”

My Bella Vita — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 04:00:19 +0000

For many kids, spending a month in southern Italy-without their parents-is a summer they’ll never forget. Well, it’s also a summer this auntie won’t forget soon. So far, we’ve talked about falling in love on the lungomare and about meeting a real-life beach bum in Pizzo but today, in our final installment of Auntie Adventures, I have to tell you about the real deal.

Yes, loyal readers, you will notice that is not me in that thumbnail shot above. The lovely lady you see with my nephew’s heart in her teeth works at “The Panino Place,” in Catanzaro Lido and is named Andreea (pronounced “An dray a”-like in Italian, not the American “Ann dree a”).

It was a typical Catanzaresi night like any other-the air was fresh, the lungomare was full of people and Triolo, or “The Panino Place” was as bustling as ever. The smiling Andreea stopped by our table to take our order. Cole plopped his eyes back in his face-a goofy grin taking over the bottom half-and whispered … “e bella.”

We kinda laughed and since my camera was sitting on the table, I said, “Do you want to take a picture with her?”

Excitement, then fear-and I think a little nausea.

“We’ll ask her for you.” We promised.

When Andreea returned, we told her Cole wanted to take a picture with her.

“You’re joking,” she said. “I don’t believe you.”

“It’s true,” I insisted. “Tell her Cole.”

He nodded his little head in rapid-make that, rabid, movements. “Si,” he said. “Si, si.”

And then, something happened that forever changed the way my baby would see Calabria.

She kissed him.

Yes, it was a generous, friendly kiss on the cheek, but to his nine year old heart-and undoubtedly to the ears of his eager friends back home-it was the real deal.

We snapped the photo, she ruffled his hair and went on with her night.

“That was more than I could have ever imagined,” he muttered, as his panino, once fresh and hot, remained untouched on the table, appetite forgotten.

A few days later, we were in the car-me, thinking about the next stop or what to cook for dinner or some other insignificant detail such as that, him, dreaming of Andreea.

“I know what I’m gonna tell my friends when I get home,” he said.

“Oh yea,” I said, pulling myself away from my mental list. “What’s that?”

“I kissed a girl and I liked it.
The taste of her cherry chap stick.
I kissed a girl just to try it.
And she was 20 years old.
It felt so right-it felt so wrong
I think I’m in love tonight.”

I laughed, “Good one!” I said, as I looked back at him.

He was grinning. Wistful. Gazing out the window.

Being the devoted aunt and uncle we are, we visited “The Panino Place” three or four more times over the next 12 days. Each time Andreea greeted him with a big smile, a happy hug and a big ‘ole smack on the cheek. She even wrote him a love letter, in broken English, and presented it to him in front of her colleagues.

He wrote her a song-although she never heard word of it-with a catchy 20s feel, about her name and her eyes.

A week before his departure, we made one more visit and although he held up well during that final goodbye, he fell into Uncle Peppe’s arms just moments away from the pub.

“But I’ll miss her,” he cried to Peppe. “I love her.”

Peppe looked at me, I looked at Cole.

“I know, Cole. But don’t worry. There will be others.” I told him.

“But not like her,” he insisted. “She loved me and I loved her and it will never be like that with anyone else.”

“Waaaaaaa …”

And then, Peppe panicked.

“Don’t cry, baby. It is ok. We’ll come back again before you leave.”

And whaddya know. It worked.

The crying stopped, but he still needed Uncle Peppe to carry him to the gelateria down the street.

“You can walk now, Cole,” Peppe told him. “We’ll come back.”

“I can’t walk,” he said. “I’ve dehydrated myself with my tears.”

And so it was, the unlikely love story of a starry-eyed Texano and a young panino server named Andreea. And I think it’ll last. I now have one new friend on Facebook and Cole is back home, knocking on doors in his gated community in Wildwood, Texas, asking friends and neighbors for odd-jobs and extra work to save up for his big return to bella Calabria.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

This post is written on behalf of AffordableCallingCards.net, the site that sells-you guessed it-Affordable Calling Cards to Italy. Click here to read other posts written by expats in Italy and Switzerland from in the ACC community.

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Tips for Learning Italian … in Italy

My Bella Vita — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 04:00:34 +0000

Many a’ language learner will tell you that the process of becoming one with a language begins after your classroom experience ends. But that doesn’t mean it is easy. Today’s guest blogger, Katie of Olio di Oliva e Sogni di Vino shares five tips for learning Italian, after you’ve put away your books and tapes.

Even after I’d taken a language course in one of the most beautiful, Renaissance cities in the world-yes, Florence, I’m talking to you-I found it hard to muster confidence to talk to my friends in Italian-let alone to strangers on the street.

After a bit more time studying verb tenses and honing my comprehension skills … and getting frustrated with the process … I remembered what my friend, Francesca, told me after my first Italian class.

“First you understand by listening … then you will gain confidence to speak and respond.”

These words of wisdom helped get me through those stressful times and frustrating moments and today I wanted to share some tips on learning Italian after you’ve completed a language class.

1. Surround yourself with non-English speakers
This is key. If you have friends who speak English, then insist they speak to you in Italian. If you don’t, you will automatically fall into the English-language-safe-zone and rely on your native language because it is easier. Yes, I did this. Yes, it was a mistake.

2. Go to a local shop and chat up the owner
I did this once … just to see how much I understood and how easily it was for me to respond. It is a good exercise. Even if you can only get out a few sentences, you will leave that shop a successful Italian speaker.

3. Enter a bar or pub, then just listen
Yes, eavesdropping is kinda creepy, but listening to what native speakers are saying around you, really helps you break that language barrier. Even if you don’t get every word-try to understand the general topic or see how many words or key phrases you understand. If you hear a word or phrase you don’t know, write it down and look it up later-this is a great way to increase your vocabulary while practicing your listening skills.

4. ALWAYS respond in Italian
If your Italian friends tell you, “But, I want to practice my English with you”, and continue to speak to you in English, even after you’ve asked them to speak in Italian, then at least force yourself to respond in Italian. It is hard, I know, I was caught in this circle when I first got here-but I always responded in Italian and eventually they began speaking to me in Italian, as well.

5. JUST SPEAK!
It doesn’t matter if you aren’t using the right verb tense or correct article … just try. If you can communicate, even on a basic level, you have succeeded. Correcting tenses and perfecting article usage come later in your learning process, but speaking to an Italian-and having them understand me-was by far the BEST feeling I have ever had.

I’d also like to point out that learning a language is a continuous process you go through while living abroad. You will continue climbing that Italian-language mountain … and then one day, fall into the “how the hell do you say that?” valley or you might plateau for a while and say “bene, bene” as a response for everything. But don’t worry, just know you are improving, keep your faith and no matter what else you do … keep speaking Italian.

Katie Greenaway is a freelance travel writer and is the Local Expert of Florence for Nile Guide where she also provides the secrets of Florence on her blog. She writes about her life in Florence on her personal blog Olio di Oliva e Sogni di Vino and contributes to MNUI Travel Insurance with travel articles.

Traveling to southern Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or Italy’s southern regions.

Photo: Cartoon Stock and See You in Italy

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Travel Tip Tuesday: Five Reasons to Go Carry-on Only

My Bella Vita — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 04:00:22 +0000

I’ve written often about my carry-on only packing process. I’ve shared my lists, talked about luggage and stressed the importance of packing light-several times over. Still, I know old habits die hard and some of you might not be convinced.

If your luggage is still weighing in at the 50lb line, listen up. Here are five reasons you should switch to carry-on only for your next trip.

1. Ease of Packing
The packing process is tedious and draining for many travelers, especially if they are packing two or three bags. When you travel carry-on only, you have less clothes, less products (since at the time of writing, you still can’t carry more than three ounce-sized liquids) and less stuff to worry about packing.

Yes, you have to be smart and you might have to remove some items if you see they are too bulky, but after a few trips, packing your carry-on will become easier and you will drastically reduce your packing time.

* It is also important to note that when you travel with a carry-on only, your return packing time is reduced. Last week I traveled to London with friends who, bless their hearts, are some of the heaviest packers I’ve ever met. It took me 10 minutes to pack the night before we left-it took them hours.

2. Look Travel Smart
I know this makes me sound like a travel snob-and I hate that, I really do, but when you are dragging around two or three bulky, over-sized suitcases, falling over yourself when one of them twists and holding up lines on buses and trains … you look like an amateur traveler.

Now, I’ll be the first to admit I look like that when I return from my US vacations, but a girl’s gotta have what a girl’s gotta have-right? when I travel for leisure, however-whether it is a weekend, two weeks or a month-I pack carry-on only.

3. Late(r) Check-In
On that same London trip, I accidentally found myself arriving at the airport 45 minutes before my scheduled departure. Since I’d checked in online, I was able to proceed directly to security after getting my boarding pass and made it to my gate with minutes to spare.

4. First One Out
There is something fun and freeing about getting off of the plane and rushing right past that still-empty, non-revolving claim that has captured your fellow travelers. Seriously, if for no other reason than this-pack carry-on only next time. It is exhilarating.

5. Easy Clean Up
If there is anything travelers hate more than packing-it is unpacking, but when you travel with just your carry-on, unpacking is a piece of pie. Last weekend I unpacked my bag, had everything put up and reset for the next trip in less than ten minutes. Who wouldn’t love that?

Ok, it’s confession time. Do you travel carry-on only? If so, what other reasons would you give travelers for making the switch?

Speaking of carry-on crazed travelers, don’t forget to visit Robin at My Melange and check out some of her travel tips for visiting Italy and France.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photos: allaboutgeorge and thbl via Flickr.

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How to Ruin Your Trip to Calabria

My Bella Vita — Thu, 05 Aug 2010 04:00:20 +0000

More and more people are choosing to travel to Calabria, which is a good thing for those of us in the tourism industry. They read our sites, maybe book a room at our B&B … they might even buy the eguide full of Calabria travel tips … then, they ignore us.

Sadly, this summer, my husband and I have seen couple after couple come through Catanzaro, visit our B&B, then ruin their vacation.

How? They refused to rent a car.

Many of these couples emailed and asked about transportation options before they arrived-and every single time, we recommended they rent a car. Yet, they arrived, bright-eyed and ready for their Calabrian adventures without a rental.

It was heartbreaking.

Why? Because you won’t see the best of Calabria without a car.

Lest you think I’m lying, let me repeat.

You won’t see the best of Calabria without a car.

This is one of the main tips in my ebook, I stress this point to all of my travel consulting clients and mentioned it in my interview with the Eye on Italy Podcast team. This sentiment was even echoed by my fellow expat-in-Calabria blogger, Michelle in her interview with About.com … and for the record, I mentioned it there, too.

The thing is, I understand why some people are wary of driving in southern Italy. They’ve heard of high-winding roads and fast-driving Italians, Carabinieri stops and traffic jams, illegible traffic signs and frustrating road construction.

But let me tell you. Nothing is as frustrating as finally arriving in bella Calabria, then being imprisoned inside your B&B or being limited to a five-block neighborhood for entertainment and meals.

In fact, we’ve seen this happen so many times that we are considering not taking reservations for people who don’t rent a car. Sound tough?

Maybe.

But we take a personal interest in guests who visit our B&B and when they aren’t having a good time, we know it-and we know that taints their judgment and their opinion of Calabria and our bed and breakfast.

When you are in Calabria, you’ll want to be free to explore the ruins near Roccelletta, visit the medieval towns of Gerace and Stilo, take a self-guided tour of Le Castella. All of these things would be hard, if not impossible, to do without the freedom of a rental car.

So, please. If you are traveling to Calabria and don’t want to risk ruining your trip, listen to this.

Rent a car.

Rent a car.

Rent a car …

Oh, please. Rent a car.

I’m curious what people in other parts of Italy think about car rental vs. public transport. Weigh in, won’t you?

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photo: Global Jet via Flickr

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A Few Things to Love About Southern Italy

My Bella Vita — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 04:00:53 +0000

Last week my friend and expat-in-southern-Italy counterpart, Tina of Tina Tangos wrote about three things to love about living in Italy.

And yes, it is all about the food.

The thing is, Tina and I are both lucky not only to live in Italy, but to live in southern Italy, where the food is apparently that much better. So in addition to Tina’s three things to love, I’d like to add a few of my own.

1. Say Cheese

My husband got quite offended earlier this week when I was near tears at the local Lidl’s British Week when I discovered there was no more Cheddar Cheese.

“You are in Calabria, Cherrye,” he told me. “We have the best cheese in the world.”

Well, since I am yet to sample all of the world’s cheeses and have a few French friends who’d defriend me if I agreed, I’ll just say that yes, Calabria has great cheese.

In fact, Calabrian cheese, especially Provola di Sila and Pecorino Calabrese are some of my favorite things about Calabria, so if you see them when you are out and about, be sure to give them a try.

2. Peperoncino, Per Favore

Oh, I’ve written of my passion for the peperoncino many times over the years, still it is one of my favorite things about southern Italy and thus, merits another mention.

I love how Calabrians use the ever-popular pepper in most of their plates, then offer it freely for those (of us) who’d like to add a little more power to our pranzo. I love how they don’t look at you strangely if you add it to your pasta and how oftentimes you get your choice-fresh, dried or oil-for your pizza.

3. Melanzane Mania

Even in Texas I loved to top my dishes with a pretty pepper or a chunk of cheese, but it is the mighty melanzane-or eggplant, if you please, that has taken me by surprise. This pretty purple produce is great sliced and grilled, fried, rolled into a ball or baked. Unfortunately, perfection has alluded me and most of the time my melanzane ends up either old-soaked or dry. However, my father-in-law is the melanzane master, so luckily for me, I can still get my fill on this Calabrian specialty.

Ok, if you had to choose-what ONE food-related item do you love most about southern Italy?

This post was written on behalf of Affordable Calling Cards.net, the company that sells-you guessed it-affordable calling cards to Italy. You can either check out their calling cards or read posts written by other expats in the ACC community.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photos: Academia Barilla, Gusti di Calabria, Netturbe, Dolci e Non Solo (also a great source of Italian-language recipes).

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Auntie Adventures: Italian Beach Bums

My Bella Vita — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 04:00:02 +0000

A couple of weeks ago I started off my Auntie Adventure tales with a story about how Cole, my nine year old nephew, ~~stalked~~ met some Calabrese women on the lungomare in Catanzaro. Unfortunately (for me) it didn’t stop there.

You see, I’m convinced there really is something to that Aria Calabra that changes a once innocent, well-meaning, pooch-petting boy into a hormone-ranging mostro.

And it all started in Pizzo.

Auntie Adventures: Italian Beach Bums

Pizzo is one of my favorite little villages in Calabria and since it is only 45-minutes or so from Catanzaro, it made for a sensible day trip. We headed out-on the train … more on that later-to check out the Murat Castle, go swimming in the Tyhennian Sea and taste-test tartufo in Pizzo’s main piazza.

And all went according to plan.

We toured the castle, I forced a picture of Cole and a statue, we had tartufo.

Then we went to the beach. In fact, we found an ideal cove of tan sand and rocks, just large enough for a few people and their beach towels, and plopped down to enjoy a few hours of private beach bummin’,

The boys had a great time and just before I called “time’s up,” they swam around the big boulder to my right-to another hidden bay of private beach bliss and had the surprise of their young lives.

A topless sunbather.

I looked up and saw Cole, stumbling towards me in a drunken stupor, wide eyes, goofy grin.

“Cici!” He said. (See, he is still a kid-he calls me by a special name.) “You’ll never guess what we saw. A woman without her bra!”

I jumped up. “Ok, boys. Time to go. We’ll miss the train … Come on. Andiamo!”

They reluctantly joined me and immediately started sizing her up.

“They were so big,” Cole said. “I gotta call Uncle Peppe!”

“They weren’t that big,” the older and wiser 14 year old, Jake told him. “She was probably a ‘C’.”

“They were big,” Cole insisted. “And there were like, nipples or something.”

“Enough, boys! Basta.” I had to stop it. I flashed back to October 17, 2000-just seconds after he was born-it was too soon to be hearing about nipples.

We hopped on the train and an hour or so later we were back in Catanzaro-the boys wearing a bit more pride on their upturned chests, Cole, with a glimmer of knowledge that shouldn’t be there, shining in his deep green eyes and me, with all of the stress and worry of an aunt who’d just allowed her sister’s nine year old child to grow up a bit too soon.

But all’s well that ends well. My sister laughed and forgave me, Cole thinks I’m the coolest aunt in the country and I’ve learned there is a lot more to beach bums than should ever meet the eye.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

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Things Southern Italians Know … like how to ward off the malocchio

My Bella Vita — Sat, 24 Jul 2010 04:00:07 +0000

Adjusting to life in southern Italy-without a drop of Italian ancestral blood in my veins-took a bit more practice than it did for my Italian-American counterparts. You see, I didn’t grow up eating seven fishes at Christmas or fearing the dreaded malocchio.

But as Lisa Fantino of Wanderlust Women Travel explains, most Italian-American kids know of the Calabrian evil eye-and know how to protect themselves.

***
Calabria may be Cherrye’s adopted homeland but part of my roots come from there. The Sicilian majority of my DNA is cramping my muscles as I write this but it’s true. Yet, the Sicilian and Calabrese cultures are so close to each other that it was difficult for me, as a kid growing up in an Italian-American household, to distinguish between the two.

One thing that was taught from an early age was all about the malocchio, “the evil eye.” Southern Italians swear that this curse may herald the end of the world if placed upon you by another. Their answer to repel such cursed maladies is the gorni or horn. You’ve all seen it, that singular horn that is everywhere from men who wear the charmed amulets around their necks to nonnas who hang giant red gornis in their kitchens (along with the streghe or witches). As for me, mine was a gold one bestowed upon me the day I was born. All babies need extra protection, according to the Calabrese, because they are the most vulnerable of all.

Now, why would anyone give the malocchio to another? The answer is simple. It always has to do with envy or jealousy, from the elderly zia who curses the beautiful young women of the village, to the workers’ wives who scorn the padrone who has all of the money.

Yet, there is nothing to fear because there are a host of remedies which have been around for hundreds of years and all of them seem to work. You can wear the gorni, especially if it’s made from red coral because that’s extra protection. You can bless yourself with the sign of the cross when you come within 50 yards of the person who has cursed you. You can spit on the ground at the mention of their name. You can wear the mano cornutta (“horned hand”) around your neck because that essentially gives them the horns right back.

Lastly, you should know that you cannot truly prevent malocchio. It is all around us. Therefore, it is truly best to take precautions early:

1. Hang a bunch of skinny dried hot red pepper over your stove. They look like red horns and keep your kitchen safe.

2. Take a container of salt and sprinkle it everywhere. This is a must, from the corners of your new home so evil does not come in, to the trunk of your new car so blessings will always be with you.

3. And for added measure, just to make sure that the malocchio doesn’t find you in your dreams……….there’s the malocchio cloth, a giant piece of red material which should be placed between the floor and you, essentially between your mattress and boxspring, so that you will sleep soundly and safely.

Hey, I’m a left-brain/right-brain kind of girl with a masters and a doctorate and I wouldn’t mess with this stuff. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Lisa Fantino is an award-winning journalist and attorney and the creative force behind Wanderlust Women Travel and the Italy destination wedding portal Wanderlust Weddings, which specializes in destination weddings and honeymoons in Italy. She also writes travel features for MNUI Travel Insurance and blogs as Lady Litigator.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photo: Zazzle (you can purchase anti-malocchio merchandise from this site, as well!)

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Travel Tip Tuesday: Sleep Sweetly (without paying a penny)

My Bella Vita — Tue, 20 Jul 2010 09:48:57 +0000

One of the most expensive portions of a world travel's trip is accommodations, so imagine how far your Euro would go if you didn't have to worry about paying for your resort, a hotel, your B&B, that week-long apartment rental … campgrounds.

From now until July 24, Radisson Blu hotels are hosting a contest-aptly named the the Greatest Holiday in the World and are giving away 365 nights in more than 200 of their hotels around the world … and you have five years to use 'em or share them with your friends and family (or the super cool blogger who told you about this awesome giveaway)!

Unfortunately for me, you have to be a EU citizen to enter and while yes, I now have residency and a Carta di Soggiorno in Italy, I'm not yet a full-fledged citizen. If you are, all you have to do is tell the Blogosphere why you deserve to win. You can enter directly from their site and whoever has the most votes on July 24, wins!

Easy Peasy.

In an effort to keep all things on the up and up, I should let you know that Radisson is paying me to announce the contest-but no, I have no real pull over there and yes, you still have to write the best entry and get the most votes.

But isn’t that tempting?

So go check out the contest and if you are an EU citizen, by all means, enter people! Do it for all of us Americans out there who can't, for the Canadians who tried, for the Asians and Australians who are watching from abroad. And if you enter, come back here and let us know so we can vote for you. I won’t make you invite me along for every trip. Probably.

Where would you go if you won 365 free hotel nights around the world? Would you use them all up or would you share them with your globe-trottin' friends and family?

Sponsored Post

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photos: Radisson Blu Hotels

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Spotlight on Capri

My Bella Vita — Mon, 19 Jul 2010 15:00:06 +0000

Over the last few months I’ve tried to feature southern Italian travel destinations outside of my beloved Calabria-and few places in the bel paese are more beloved than Capri. If you are considering a visit to this chic and stylish island, here are a few ideas to add to your itinerary by avid Italy traveler, Katie Greenaway.

Villa San Michele and the Axel Munthe Museum

Villa San Michele was the home of Dr. Axel Munthe, a Swedish physician who dreamed of living in Anacapri in southern Italy. Famed more as an author than a physician, his most famous book was the 1929, The Story of St. Michele, a book he spent much of his life writing that details his life and his home, Villa San Michele. The 45+ translations of The Story of St. Michele and the unending flow of visitors to the villa is a testament to Munthe’s fame.

Opening Hours:

January-February: 9.00-15.30
March: 9.00-16.30
April: 9.00-17.00
May-September: 9.00-18.00
October: 9.00-17.00
November-December: 9.00-15.30

Castello Barbarossa

This enchanting castle overlooks a cliff on the northeast part of Anacapri and is named for one of Capri’s most fearsome invaders-the Algerian prince Kair-ed-Din, or “Barbarossa,” who attacked the castle in 1535. The castle was the largest construction of the Byzantine times and was built with material obtained from Roman ruins. The central part of the castle still remains today. A small ornithological research and observation center has been set up in some rooms of the castle, which is run by the Swedish “Axel Munthe” Foundation.

La Grotta Azzurra
(“Blue Grotto”)

The discovery of this romantic hideaway among the rocks around Capri is credited to two German tourists who visited the island in 1826-Augustus Kopisch, a writer and Ernst Fries, a painter. The Grotta was already locally known as “Grotta Gradola,” a place the people of Capri considered bewitched because of the frolicking monsters and witches that were thought to lurk in the waters.

The area sank 15-20 meters (50-65 feet) below present sea level and blocked every opening through which light might directly enter the cave. On one side the sunlight penetrating from below through the sea water springs out and is reflected onto the sides and the vault of the azzurro-colored grotto. On the other side, this light from the white sandy bottom of the grotto reflects off of the water so that any object that is dipped in it drips and vibrates with a silvery light.

How to Arrive:
* 10 minute motorboat ride from Marina Grande
* 15 minute bus ride to terminal in Viale Tommaso de Tommaso (in Anacapri)
* 50 minute walk along Viale Tommaso de Tommaso, Via Pagliaro and Via Grotta Azzurra

Have you ever been to Capri? What would you recommend travelers add to their lists of “must-sees?”

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photos: CapriTourism and TripAdvisor.it

A Traveler’s First Aid Kit

My Bella Vita — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 04:00:45 +0000

Remember how I said I just got back from Texas and have been busy chasing two super cute and ooh-too-charming American boys around Calabria? Well, all of that running has caught up with me and I’m smack dab in the middle of a head cold/sinus infection/strep throat-like mystery illness that has me up all night and (wanting to) sleep all day.

Too bad I didn’t consult my new blogging buddy, Andi of My Beautiful Adventures about some of the holistic medicine I should have used, before this crud got me down.

However, it is not too late for you if you are planning a trip abroad. Here are some expert tips from avid traveler and Chinese Medicine Doctor, Andi Perullo.

—

Being a health care professional, I always make sure that one of the first things I pack when preparing for a trip is my own personal first aid kit. In it I have combined the best of Western and Holistic Medicine into a little package that has kept me quite healthy on my travels around the world. Since I am a Licensed Acupuncturist, I am going to share my favorite Holistic remedies to bring when abroad. If you are more interested in the Western remedies, I encourage you to consult your primary physician for further advice.

#1 Ginger:

The most common problem that people encounter when traveling to a new environment is an upset stomach or diarrhea. This is because your stomach is not used to the new micro-organisms found in the local food and water. Ginger is an herb that people have been using for thousands of years to treat any kind of digestive issue. It comes in many forms, such as chewable tablets, herbal tea, and crystallized candy. It can also be used for nausea associated with any type of motion sickness. Feel free to use it as a preventive measure.

#2 Aloe

Even if you do not plan on visiting a sunny climate where you might get a sunburn, aloe is useful for other burns, scrapes, or bites. It has strong anti-inflammatory properties and its cooling effect will help ease the pain. Many people are not aware that aloe can also be ingested to help strengthen the immune system and combat digestive issues.

#3 Arnica

Arnica is an herb that can be used as a natural substitute for over-the-counter anti-inflammatory/pain medications. It is incredibly effective in treating any pain, swelling, and bruising. It comes in 2 forms: cream or pills. The cream is best for superficial problems, whereas the pills are best for internalized problems. You can pop a pill or two to prevent a hangover headache in the morning as well.

#4 Tiger Balm

Traveling long hours and carrying heavy luggage leads to muscle soreness, fatigue, and pain. One of the best ways to treat this is by rubbing Tiger Balm ointment, which is a combination of Chinese herbs, on to the affected area. Relief is guaranteed almost instantly.

#5 Lavender Essential Oil

Besides the fact that it smells divine, lavender happens to be a powerful antibiotic. If used on the skin, it can help cure rashes or disinfect scrapes or bites. If used internally, it can help boost the immune system. Put a couple of drops in a bottle of water and drink while on the plane to prevent catching a cold. Another benefit of this essential oil is its ability to relax the nervous system. Therefore, if inhaled before sleep it will help insomnia from jetlag.

Of course your kit will highly depend on your particular health concerns and the destination of your travels, however while I hope you will never have to use one of these five remedies it is better to have them than to not have them. Please remember my suggestions are for non-serious ailments. If your ailments do not get better or they become worse, you should seek more advanced care immediately.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

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