Is there anything that says Italy more than pizza? Biting into the perfect pizza is just heaven! While you’ll find excellent pizza all over Italy, there’s one place that’s absolutely the top – Naples. This is where pizza was born and where it’s still king. Come along as we take a look at the history of the Neapolitan pizza, from it’s humble beginnings to an international favorite!

Naples is proud of its heritage as the place where pizza was born. However, precisely when pizza as we know it today was invented has been lost in a cloud of flour dust. Even the pizza historians don’t all agree on exactly when tomatoes met bread and were later joined by cheese, a drizzle of olive oil and a few leaves of basil. (Yes, there are pizza historians. And, yes, we’re jealous of their job!)

The beginning of pizza, just as when you make one, is with the crust. Flat breads have been eaten in Naples since ancient times and were likely brought to the area from the Middle East. There are ovens that have been uncovered at the ruins of Roman Pompeii that look strikingly similar to wood fired pizza ovens today.

However, it wasn’t until much later, the 1760s to be more accurate, that tomatoes baked atop flat bread became the thing to eat in Naples. For that we can thank Ferdinand, King of Naples, who rather liked cavorting with, well, let’s just say not the nicest class of people. For a king he was known for his vulgar tastes, and one of them was this dish of flat bread baked with tomatoes, olive oil, oregano and garlic. This was the very beginning of what is now called pizza alla marinara, the most basic pizza. (Imagine a world where this was considered vulgar … unthinkable!)

What worked for the King worked for the King, but it didn’t necessarily fly with the Queen. That would be Maria Carolina of Austria, the sister of Marie Antoinette. Would Marie Antoinette get her pretty gloves messy eating pizza? I think not. So you can imagine her sister’s response to King Ferdinand’s fancies. While she refused to have pizza at her table, she did allow her husband to install a pizza oven outdoors at the Capodimonte Palace. What happened next was the first pizza party. Quite literally! With the King and Queen hosting lavish parties with pizza it quickly became a court fashion.

By 1830, when the first pizzeria opened in Naples near Port’Alba not far from Piazza Dante, pizza was the rage for all levels of society. The Port’Alba Restaurant and Pizzeria still stands and is quite busy! Now we’re approaching the all-important moment when mozzarella cheese arrived on the pizza. By all accounts this happened sometime before 1889, but there are no good stories before that date. And everyone likes a good story. So here it is!

In 1889, Queen Margherita, wife of Umberto I the King of Italy, expressed some interest in trying the famous Neapolitan pizza she had heard so much about. So on her visit to the city she summoned one of the best pizza makers of the day, one Raffaele Esposito from what is now called Pizzeria Brandi, to make her the local specialty. Keep in mind that Italy had only been unified for 28 years at this point and enthusiasm for the new country and its tri color flag were all the rage. The story goes that in order to honor the Queen with something extra special and to show his support for the new country, Raffaele added some mozzarella cheese and basil leaves to make the pizza green, white and red. A little messier than a flag, but much tastier!

Naturally, the Queen was impressed and when word got out about the success it became a smash hit and is still called pizza Margherita in her honor. Now that’s a story! When you pass by Pizzeria Brandi not far from Galleria Umberto I, you’ll see a marble plaque celebrating the spot where the world’s most famous pizza was created.

You don’t have to go far to find a pizzeria in Naples and anyone you ask will have their favorite spot that makes the best pizza in the city. There are subtle variations, but to be considered la vera pizza napoletana (the true Neapolitan pizza) there are strict guidelines for the ingredients used to make the dough and the type of tomatoes and mozzarella used for the topping. Even if you like your pizza with lots of toppings, do try the classic pizza marinara and pizza Margherita while you’re in Naples. You’re going to want to try them in many pizzerias in Naples … consider yourself warned!

With so much history it is no wonder that pizza is so deeply ingrained in Neapolitan culture. Walking along Via San Gregorio Armeno in the historic heart of Naples, which is famous for its rows of tiny shops where presepe—or nativities—are still handmade, you’ll even spot pizzerias and tiny pizza makers for the Christmas nativity. The best ones have the ovens lit up and the pizzaioli (pizza makers) put pizzas in and out of the oven. What could be more perfect for a Neapolitan Christmas nativity?

Image Credits: Pizza in wood fired oven by if you love me, Oven at Pompeii by Daniela, Pizzas in Naples by Jonathan Khoo, Pizza Margherita by Mr. dale, Pizzeria Brandi sign by nezzem, Presepe pizzeria by eti-eti.  

Are you planning a vacation to Naples, Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

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Southern Italy boasts some of the most beautiful beaches and coastlines in Europe – perfect for sunning by the sea, enjoying a drive along the scenic coastal roads or finding that perfect hidden away village. Sicily has stunning beaches and the Amalfi Coast is home to some of the most famous vacation spots in Italy. Savvy travelers are starting to discover the Cilento Coast in Campania, too. Let me introduce you to another beautiful coastline – Calabria’s Riviera dei Cedri.

La Riviera dei Cedri, or the Citron Coast, is a stretch of Calabria’s northern Tyrrhenian coastline dotted with seaside villages. This beautiful area takes its name from the ancient cultivation of the cedro, a large citrus fruit commonly called citron in English. Citrons are still an important local product along the Riviera dei Cedri from Praia a Mare south to Cetraro. This area of Calabria is the perfect environment for growing a special variety of Citron called Cedro Liscio di Diamante, named after the town of Diamante. Known for its large size and intense fragrance the fruit shines in local specialties where it adds its citrus flavor to pasta dishes and liqueurs as well as the traditional candied cedro used in local desserts.

This is the place to head to discover untouched coastlines, quiet villages with hidden away artistic treasures, divine local cooking and a truly authentic taste of the Calabrian lifestyle. Here’s a look at some of the stars of the Riviera dei Cedri in Calabria.

Cirella

Nestled into the heart of the Riviera dei Cedri, Cirella is a little seaside town just north of Diamante. Like many of the towns along the Riveria dei Cedri, Cirella is a popular summer spot with many beautiful beaches nearby. The water is exquisite and from the beach you can enjoy the view of Cirella Island just off the coastline.

Diamante

Diamante is known as “The Pearl of the Tyrrhenian” and lies just south of Scalea. It has a colorful historical center accented with many artistic murals, which has given the town the name of the City of Murals as well. In addition to the cedro, Diamante is famous for its rich chili pepper traditions. It is home to the best chili peppers in Calabria and the spicy Peperoncino Festival held here each year in September.

Scalea

Buried in the heart of ancient Scalea is a once-forgotten token from the Byzantine past. A non-assuming façade of a nearly decimated building hides mosaic wonders that date back to the 3^rd Century BC. A small sign indicates the importance of the find, but visitors will likely discover a locked and gated door. Patient tourists can stand outside the door and wait, while more adventurous groups can venture up the next set of stairs to where the family who guards the mosaics lives to ask for a tour.

Cetraro

The southernmost town on the Riviera dei Cedri, Cetraro takes its name from the Latin word Citrarium, referring to the ancient cultivation of the cedro. Cetraro is ideally situated along the coastline offering easy access to beautiful beaches with intensely turquoise blue waters and just inland the Pollino National Park. This coastline is seeped in history from ancient times to the Middle Ages and each little town offers charming streets, beautiful churches and moments of Calabrian life to discover.

Image Credits: Cedri by aurelio candido, Cirella Island by PhotoLab XL, Pepperoncino Festival by aurelio candido, Scalea by Emanuele Nocentelli, Rocky Beach in Cetraro by Julia

Are you planning a vacation to Calabria? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

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For the second installment of our Southern Italy Books Series we’re off to Sicily – that island off the toe of the Italian boot that has been captivating travelers since ancient times. Our list of books about or set in Sicily are seeped in the mystery, vibrancy and spice that make the Sicilian culture so very distinctive.

If you’re looking for a good book about Sicily, this list has a great variety of books to choose from. There are sweet travel memoirs, thrillers, Italian classics and plenty of tempting cookbooks. For mystery fans, many of the works by Sicilian author Andrea Camilleri in his popular Inspector Montalbano series have been translated to English. We hope these books inspire you to discover Sicily on your next trip to southern Italy!

Travel Writing about Sicily

That Summer in Sicily: A Love Story by Marlena de Blasi

Sweet Honey, Bitter Lemons: Travels in Sicily on a Vespa  by Matthew Fort

In Sicily by Norman Lewis

The Stone Boudoir: Travels Through the Hidden Villages of Sicily by Theresa Maggio

A House in Sicily by Daphne Phelps

Casa Nostra: A Home in Sicily by Caroline Seller Manzo

Sicily, It’s Not Quite Tuscany by Shamus Sillar

On Persephone’s Island: A Sicilian Journal by Mary Taylor Simeti

Fiction Set in Sicily

The Inspector Montalbano Mystery Series by Andrea Camilleri

Sicilian Dreams by J.P. Kennedy

The Savage Heart of Palermo by Daniel Kenyon

The Leopard: A Novel by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa

The Silent Duchess by Dacia Maraini

Only Sale Remains by Meryl McQueen

The Day of the Owl by Leonardo Sciascia

To Each His Own by Leonardo Sciascia

Non-Fiction and Cookbooks About Sicily

The Day of the Battle: The War in Sicily and Italy, 1943-1944 by Rick Atkinson

Sicily: Three Thousand Years of Human History by Sandra Benjamin

Spring in Sicily: Food from an Ancient Island by Manuela Darling-Gansser  and Simon Griffiths

Sweet Sicily: The Story of an Island and Her Pastries by Victoria Granof

Seeking Sicily: A Cultural Journey Through Myth and Reality in the Heart of the Mediterranean by John Keahey

In Etna’s Shadow: Culinary Adventures from Eastern Sicily by Karen Landes

Coming Home to Sicily: Seasonal Harvests and Cooking from Case Vecchie by Fabrizia Lanza

Gardens of Sicily by Clare Littlewood and photos by Mario Ciampi

Walking in Sicily: Short and Long Distance Walks (Cicerone Guides) by Gillian Price

Midnight in Sicily: On Art, Food, History, Travel and la Cosa Nostra by Peter Robb

What is your favorite book about Sicily? Have you read these or other books set in Sicily? I’d love to hear your suggestions and comments!

If you missed the first part of our Southern Italian Book Series, here is our list of Books Set in Campania. Stay tuned for upcoming installments with books set in Calabria, Puglia and Basilicata!

Are you planning a trip to Sicily? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

Either loved or feared, anchovies are a staple of Italian cooking, especially along the Amalfi Coast in southern Italy’s Campania region. Called alici in Italian, these little fish are prepared in many local specialties. Laura Thayer, an American expat who lives on the Amalfi Coast, shares with My Bella Vita a traditional recipe from Amalfi for pasta with anchovies and walnuts.

This is a classic and quick Amalfi Coast recipe that you can throw together while the pasta cooks. It’s perfect for when you get home late and want to prepare something healthy and simple for dinner. The pasta finishes cooking in the sauce, which includes some of the pasta cooking water. This a technique used to reduce the amount of oil needed as well as infuse the pasta with the flavors of the sauce. (It’s a handy trick you can use with other recipes, too!) Since the anchovies essentially dissolve while cooking, you might even be surprised to find that you like them in this dish even if you don’t think you care for anchovies. Give it a shot!

Ingredients:

Serves 2

>> 3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

>> 1 large clove garlic, peeled and gently smashed

>> 1/2 cup walnuts, chopped

>> Pinch of pepperoncino (or more to taste)

>> Parsely (to garnish)

>> 8 oil packed anchovies or 4-5 salt packed anchovies (rinsed well)

>> 250 grams (1/2 pound) linguine (or spaghetti)

Directions:

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil and cook the linguine.

2. In a large skillet heat the olive oil and garlic over very low heat until the garlic is soft and has released its flavors into the oil. Press it gently into the oil, being careful not to burn the garlic. Remove and discard the garlic.

3. Add the chopped walnuts and peperoncino (or omit if you don’t care for spicy food) and cook over low heat for about a minute.

4. Add the anchovies to the skillet and smash them with a wooden spoon until they break up into tiny pieces. By this point the pasta should be nearly done cooking. Take one cup of pasta water out of the pot and add about a half of it to the skillet.

5. Drain the linguine when it’s still a bit more al dente than you like and add to the skillet. Toss the pasta to mix well with the sauce and continue cooking. Add more reserved pasta water if the skillet becomes dry before the pasta has finished cooking.

6. Serve with a sprinkle of freshly chopped parsley.

Buon appetito!

Do you like anchovies? What’s your favorite way to prepare them?

Photo credits: Anchovy by In Praise of Sardines, Linguine in Creative Commons.

Are you interested in a cooking tour of southern Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

While art and architecture lovers naturally flock to the great art centers of Italy in Florence, Rome and Venice, there’s truly a wealth of art history discover in Calabria. What makes it all so unique is finding that unique Calabrian stamp – a fascinating blend of architectural and artistic styles and the feeling that you’re stepping back in time.

As you travel through Calabria you’ll spot churches–some great cathedrals and others tiny gems–each one both a relic to the past and a part of the living community. Ancient Greek bronzes, Byzantine churches and Norman castles – just a few of the highlights from the top 5 spots in Calabria for art and architecture lovers!

1- Gerace

While it’s hard for visitors to imagine today, the town of Gerace in the Reggio Calabria province once had over 100 churches. How many more you ask? 128 to be precise! Gerace is one of the best-preserved medieval villages in Italy, and that alone is enough reason to plan a visit. Add a stunning mountaintop setting and you’ve got one of Calabria’s most scenic spots. Of the 19 remaining churches, the Cattedrale dell’Assunta (Assunta Cathedral) is the most impressive. Built in 1045, this huge cathedral is the largest Norman church in Calabria. Strolling through Gerace you can also visit the town’s smaller churches and spot the Norman Castle.

2- Le Castella

Speaking of castles, one of Calabria’s most beautiful is the Castello Aragonese nearly surrounded by the Ionian Sea at the tip of Le Castella. The history of Le Castella is one of myth and magic, but one thing is certain – the views from the castle are extraordinary! While we’ll never know if it really was the home of Greek goddess Calyso as Homer wrote, walking around the castle and climbing the walls is an enchanting experience.

3- Reggio Calabria

With a beautiful lungomare stretching out along the Strait of Messina, top notch museums and a lively atmosphere, a visit to Reggio Calabria should be at the top of any art lovers places to see in Calabria. Start off with a visit to the Duomo, or the Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo, which is the largest religious structure in Calabria. While churches have been located here since 1543, the Romanesque and Gothic Revival Duomo was completely rebuilt after the 1908 earthquake.

Art lovers won’t want to miss a visit to the Museo Nazionale di Reggio Calabria dedicated to ancient art from the Magna Graecia period. The highlight of the collection are the Bronzes of Riace, two incredible statues dating from about 450 BC. They were lost in the Ionian Sea for over 2,000 years until discovered in 1972. Considered two of the most important Greek statues in the world, the Bronzes of Riace are currently undergoing a restoration that is open to the public in the Palazzo Campanella near the Museo Nazionale (Via Cardinale Portanova, Reggio Calabria, Open daily 9am to 7:30pm, admission free).

4- Stilo

The small mountain village of Stilo is on the art and architecture lovers map of Calabria because it’s home to one of the region’s most beloved churches – the 10th-century Byzantine church La Cattolica. This unique church is the only of its architectural kind in Calabria. It features a Greek cross plan, five domes, intricate brickwork and a picture perfect setting on the slopes of Monte Consolino. Stroll through the town and visit the Duomo with its Roman-Gothic entrance, the Renaissance-era Chiesa di San Francesco and the Baroque-era Chiesa di San Giovanni.

5- Rossano

Often described as the Byzantine Capital of Calabria, Rossano is one of the most interesting villages for art and architecture in northern Calabria. The Rossano Duomo is home to the famous 9^th-century Byzantine fresco of the Madonna Achiropita, which means “not painted by hand” since it is believed to have been created by angels. A heavenly creation or not, it’s the Codex Purpureus Rossanensis at the Diocesan Museum nearby that is the village’s main attraction. This rare illuminated manuscript depicting the life of Christ was brought to Rossano by Greek monks in the 6^th century. Before leaving the village, stop in at the Amarelli Liquorice factory and museum where you can discover more about one of the world’s longest-operating liquorice producers in the world. History never tasted so sweet!

Photo credits: Castello di Gerace by Manlio Tommaso Gaddi, Cathedral of Gerace by kristobalite, Le Castella by Pierpaolo Perri, Duomo di Reggio Calabria by diesus, La Cattolica de Stilo by kristobalite, Rossano Gospels image in public domain.     

Are you interested in art and architecture and considering a Calabria tour? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

Guided village tours in Calabria offer a deeper understanding of the medieval life of long ago and can open doors that remain closed (and unknown to) independent travelers. Visitors are taught interesting tidbits, escorted around the main sights and introduced to local people and shops. But did you ever wonder how a day trip is designed?

Earlier this year, My Bella Vita Travel designed a new, exclusive day tour that takes travelers into the heart of one of Calabria’s most interesting medieval villages.

In our tour, Squillace: Past and Present, visitors explore the ruins of the town that began as Skylletion in the Greek and Roman days, then head up into the medieval village that is known throughout the south for its ceramic and terra cotta tradition.

To properly plan this day tour, I spent around 20 hours reading literature on the town, then a colleague and I made four trips to the village, met with a dozen locals, tested the restaurants, painted some pottery and finally found a way into the castle.

Sure it was fun – taste-testing homemade liquors is at the top of the list! – but it was also hard work narrowing down the “must see” list into a manageable day, determining the details of the pottery demonstration and terra cotta painting and locating the woman who literally had the “keys to the castle,” to let us in.

We learned about ancient medieval windows, Italy’s famous Cassiodoro and where to go for the best views of this part of the boot, then we hiked deep below the village to the ominous-sounding Devil’s Bridge for a different perspective on the town.

Here are some pictures of Squillace and of our some of our information-gathering excursions.

Are you traveling to Calabria? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

Newsletter recipients and Facebook fans will remember my recent Limoncello Challenge – where I took two extreme steeping rules and put them to the test. And I have to say … the results were surprising.

To fully tell this story, I need to go back to when I first tried the homemade limoncello that knocked my socks off (in a totally cool and appropriate way, that is). It was given to me by Marcello’s mamma who understood it was love-at-first-bite and immediately offered up the recipe.

1 liter of alcohol
1.5 liters of water
500 grams of sugar
peeling from 4-5 large lemons

Simple, right?

… and the best part? The lemons only have to steep in the alcohol for four days!

Now – fast-forward a few years and I’ve heard of recipes that call for varying amounts of alcohol vs water, varying amount of sugar and the most controversial variant of all … the number of days the lemon peel has to steep.

On a recent Calabrian Table Tour, one of the participants swore by her recipe that called for a 40-day wait.

“40 days? Are you kiddin’ me,” I told her (in a polite and respectful way, of course). “You only need FOUR … and I’m gonna prove it.”

You see, I was convinced that many US-based chefs and experts on Italian cuisine swear by the 40-day rule because making limoncello “should” be hard. But I wasn’t buying it.

So I made two batches of limoncello using the same bottle of alcohol, lemons from the same tree (in our yard!), the same alcohol/water ratio and equal sugar. And I waited.

After four days I made Batch One. After 40, Batch Two …

and I put them to the test with everyone who walked through our door and visited our B&B.

The results shocked me.

During our first mass tasting, I was the lone American with a group of a dozen Italians. My husband jokingly called the two batches “The Italian Recipe” and “The American Recipe” and interestingly enough the Italians overwhelming choose the 40-day “American” recipe. (11-to-1)

Over the next several tastings, the numbers evened out a bit with more people choosing the 4-day batch. In the end, however, the 40-Day Limoncello was preferred.

Here are some of the tasters’ comments.

40-Day Batch Pros
“The limoncello is smoother, you can barely taste the alcohol.”
“There is a stronger lemon taste.”
“It tastes sweeter.”
“This one is easier to drink – it doesn’t even taste like liquor.”

4-Day Batch Pros
“It is stronger-limoncello should be stout.”
“It is not overly sweet.”

I even preferred the 40-day batch because, like my fellow tasters, it was sweet and smooth.

It should be noted, though, that *everyone* who participated in the taste test, even those who chose the 40-day batch, agreed that while it did have a better taste, it wasn’t worth waiting the extra month.

So, tell me. Do you make homemade limoncello? How long do you let your lemons steep?

Are you traveling to southern Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

I started a new series last week that highlights books about or set in various parts of Southern Italy. We kicked it off with Campania and today my friend, and newest addition to the My Bella Vita Travel team, Laura Thayer, is here to give us her take on one of those books. Benvenuta, Laura!

Every city has secrets to discover, hidden spots to treasure and a wealth of history to uncover, and perhaps none more so than Naples, Italy. In her book The Espresso Break: Tours and Nooks of Naples, Italy and Beyond, Barbara Zaragoza has gathered and expanded work from her popular Naples-based blog The Espresso Break into an excellent and very useful guidebook. Zaragoza’s unique approach combines an in depth and very accessible historic focus with the intricacies of the Neapolitan culture and, above all, a deep love of bella Napoli.

Follow Zaragoza on a tour of Naples’ castles, the Phlegraean Fields where few tourists wander, ancient Greek and Roman ruins in and around Naples, urban spelunking in the fascinating underground city below Naples and to a great selection of nooks you won’t want to miss during your travels in Naples.

Of course a book with such a catchy title wouldn’t be complete without an Espresso Tour through the city regularly noted as the home of the best coffee in Italy. This is your guide to how to order, discovering different types of espresso drinks to try and the best places in Naples to find them. You’ll even find a few recipes and tips for recreating Neapolitan coffee drinks at home. I love how Zaragoza dove into the caffè culture in Naples and brought it to life with stories, history and even a Neapolitan song. You’ll be ready to order a caffè like a Neapolitan after reading the Espresso Tour!

One of the most unique features in The Espresso Break is the Odious Women Tour, a fascinating look at the famous—and not so well-known—women who have shaped the city. An odious woman as defined by Zaragoza is, “A female whose beliefs, words, or actions were unusual, or even considered objectionable, during her time.” From Parthenope, the mythical siren at the origins of Naples, to saints, to queens, ladies, artists and the lovely Sophia Loren, Zaragoza takes readers on a tour through the history and sites of Naples through its most famous women.

Naturally, most guidebooks are written for travelers. Makes sense, right? As an expat myself, I appreciate how Zaragoza’s book goes deeper and provides information that you won’t find in other Naples and Campania guidebooks. It’s the perfect inspiration for expats living in or around Naples—or even other parts of Italy—to discover the Naples that Zaragoza fell in love with while living there with her family. I treasure her firsthand experiences, the unique and often overlooked spots and the history she’s gathered in The Espresso Break. Yet, it’s a book that will also bring a level of depth and understanding for travelers only in Naples or Campania for a short holiday or day trips who still want to experience the authentic Naples.

If you’re traveling to Naples, do also visit Barbara Zaragoza’s new website Naples Napoli Guide for more information, travel tips and more of her insightful writing on Naples and Campania. Delve into the mysteries and fall in love with the charms of Naples with Barbara Zaragoza’s The Espresso Break.

You can find The Espresso Break: Tours and Nooks of Naples, Italy and Beyond at the following locations: Amazon.com, Amazon UK, Amazon Italy.

Are you traveling to Naples or Campania? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

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Welcome to the Southern Italy Books Series – a place to share about all the great books set in southern Italy! If you’re like me and love geting lost in good story set in Italy or read about a new place before traveling, then this series will help you find the perfect book. Let’s kick it off with the region of Campania.

Whether you’re planning your upcoming holiday or looking for a good read to enjoy while soaking up the summer sun on a beach on the Amalfi Coast, here’s a list of novels, travel writing and non-fiction books set in the Campania region to choose from. There’s a little bit of romance as well as mystery, intrigue and historical fiction. Happy reading!

Travel Writing about Campania

Capri and No Longer Capri by Raffaele La Capria

Falling Palace, A Romance of Naples by Dan Hofstadter

Passeggiata: Strolling Through Italy by G.G. Husak

Gelato Sisterhood on the Amalfi Shore by Chantal Kelly

Naples ’44 by Norman Lewis

A Year in the World by Frances Mayes (Writing on Naples, Capri and other spots in Campania)

The Espresso Break: Tours and Nooks of Naples, Italy and Beyond by Barbara Zaragoza

Fiction Set in Campania

The House in Amalfi by Elizabeth Adler

Sailing to Capri by Elizabeth Adler

The Wedding Officer by Anthony Capella

The Botticelli Secret by Marina Fiorato

An Italian Affair by Laura Fraser

The Night Villa by Carol Goodman

Stones of the Madonna by Jan Mazzoni

Last Voyage of the Valentina by Santa Montefiore

The Italian Matchmaker by Santa Montefiore

The Deep Blue Sea for Beginners by Luanne Rice

The Volcano Lover, A Romance by Susan Sontag

Non-Fiction About Campania

The Mystery of the Duchess of Malfi by Barbara Banks Amendola

Gomorrah: Italy’s Other Mafia by Roberto Saviano

Have you read these or other books set in Campania? Please note in the comments!

Stay tuned for the the Southern Italian Book Series to continue with books set in Calabria, Puglia, Basilicata and Sicily!

Are you traveling to Campania? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

The beauty and diversity of Italy never ceases to amaze me. One of the must see places on my Italy travel list is the island of Sardinia. It’s a pleasure to welcome Luke to share with My Bella Vita readers more about the charms of Sardinia along with 10 things to see and do on the island. Welcome, Luke!

Sardinia is a beautiful island, off the coast of Italy that is loaded with history, excitement, and awe-inspiring scenery. There is plenty to do for everyone visiting the island, including caves to explore, plenty of museums, and even national parks which boast rare species of animals.

Caves

1. Ispinigoli Caves

These caves can be found near Dorgali and have the tallest stalagmite in the world – measuring in at 38 meters high! There is also a legend surrounding the caves that suggests ancient Phoenicians made human offerings here to divine powers.

2. Su Marmuri’s Cave

This cave is one of Europe’s finest with unique and breath-taking colours and rock formations. It is located about 40 minutes outside of Tortoli and is open between April and October. The cave is 1km long with a restaurant and bar available as well as regular daily guided tours.

3. Is Zuddas Caves

Located 6km from Santadi, the Is Zuddas Caves are the oldest caves known so far and were formed about 600 million years ago. Being in the presence of such history is a humbling experience to say the least. (See photo above.)

Museums and Tourism

4. Sailing in Santa Margherita di Pula

If you travel over to the Teulada Harbour, you can find a sailing excursion that will take you around some of the most beautiful beaches and granite rocks along the coast of Sardinia. Lunch is offered on board.

5. Sella e Mosca Museum

Sella e Mosca is not just a museum, it is also the largest Sardinian winery and is open from June to October. This is a great place to visit in Sardinia as you can taste various types of wines available and then visit the museum which is home to the largest necropolis in Sardinia.

6. Life and Popular Sardinian Traditions Museum

To get a real good sense of the day to day culture, visit the life and popular Sardinian traditions museum where you will find samples of jewellery, weapons, masks, musical instruments, and more. The museum can be found at A. Mereu 56, 08100 in Nuoro.

Ruins and Archaeological Sites

7. Ruins of Nora

The ruins of Nora are located in a Punic and Roman archeological area and is the oldest town in Sardinia. The city was founded around IX-VIII B. C. by Phoenician seafarers and is the first place to have the name Sardinia in writing.

8. Tharros Archeological Site

This ancient city was located on the west coast of Sardinia near the village of San Giovanni Di Sinis. It was founded by the Phoenicians but later came under the control of the Punics then the Romans. It was started somewhere between the 11th and 8th century B.C. (See photo below.)

Natural Parks

9) Molentargius Natural Park

This park is interesting if nothing else than for the fact that the pink flamingos colour is determined largely by their diet. What a great example of the saying “you are what you eat.”

10) Asinara National Park

The Asinara National Park has some unique history from the first World War as well as the many rare wildlife species that live on the park. It is located in Porto Torres and has activities like foot excursions, off-road car guided visits, and fishing.

These ten attractions cover all aspects of life in Sardinia and visiting a few of these attractions during a visit to the island will ensure you leave with a better understanding of the culture, history and beauty of this popular holiday destination.

—

Luke writes for Charming Sardinia who specialize in luxury holidays to Sardinia. He is passionate about travel and has visited many places across the globe including city breaks to Europe, trekking in South America and backpacking through Asia.

Are you heading to Sardinia? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

Photos courtesy Charming Sardinia

In the 700s BC, Greeks migrated across southern Italy and settled the land known as Magna Graecia. The first of these settlements – where 100,000 of the wealthiest and most prosperous congregated – was Sybaris. The Sybarites, whose name is now synonymous with opulence and luxury originated la dolce vita for which Italy is famous.

Legend says the residents of this fine Magna Graecia city amused themselves by teaching their horses to dance. Their hated arch-rivals in Kroton (modern-day Crotone), used this to their favor and sent a pipe band into town as they attacked. Rather than riding the Sybarites off to war, the horses began dancing and thus, the victory went to Kroton.

To finish them off, the warriors from Kroton diverted the river and drowned the city.

Many residents fled and created a new village called Thurium, which later became an important colony under Roman rule.

Although they were envied for their indulgent lifestyle, they Sybarites were a smart bunch. They were accredited with creating the world’s first traffic-lighting system, minting their own coins and recognizing intellectual property.

Today the ruins at ancient Sybaris and Roman Thurium comprise the world’s largest excavation site, measuring almost 2,500 acres. To put it in perspective for Italophiles who have visited Sibari’s much more famous archaeological cousin, Pompeii , the site there is 124 acres. However, to date, little has been uncovered from Sybaris other than Greek streets, Roman baths and a mosaic-clad villa. Nearby, the National Museum of Sybaritic Archeology houses finds from the excavation site and many people consider that a more useful glimpse into the indulgent and oh so bella vita of ancient Sibari.

***

This article was recently published in Calabria Close-Up, a snippet highlighting Calabria destinations that is part of the My Bella Vita Newsletter bundle. If you would like to read more about the cities, towns and villages of Calabria or want to read about new recipes, tidbits and interesting facts on southern Italy, then subscribe to the newsletters today.

Are you heading to Calabria? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

Photo: Ruins at ancient Sybaris by marinajonica

If it wasn’t for this brilliant Calabrian you and I wouldn’t even know what day it was, but unfortunately, his great contribution bears someone’s name. As Michele Connors explains, Luigi Lilio, one of the greatest minds in Calabrian history, changed the way we see the world.

Welcome, Michele.

How much Calabrian history has been lost to the hands of time and how much is left to be discovered? This was the question that popped into my head after attending a lovely lecture by Dr. Francesco Vizza held on the terrace of the local museum in Ciro’ Superiore, Calabria this August. He talked about Luigi Lilio, possibly the most famous citizen ever to live in Calabria (except maybe Pythagoras), who was forgotten somehow over time. Who knows how this was possible since he made such a major contribution to society! This illustrious astronomer and mathematician created what is known as the Gregorian Calendar in the 1500′s, though it should be known as the Lilian Calendar. We are still using this calendar today.

In the mid 1500′s, Pope Gregory the XIII had a problem – the calendar wasn’t behaving as he wanted it to. Everyone was using the Julian calendar at the time. That was fine except that, due to some miscalculations for how long it took the Earth to revolve around the sun, the calendar dates were changing every year. Among other problems, this meant it was hard to follow the Bible’s rules about when Easter should be. The Bible states that Easter would be on the Sunday following the full moon following the Vernal Equinox (learn more here). Considering that the Julian Calendar wasn’t calculating the moon’s movements correctly, this wasn’t working out.

The Pope sent out word that all of the best astronomers and mathematicians had to solve this problem, not necessarily for the sake of a correct calendar that respects the moon’s movement, but more for this annoying little Easter date issue. He created a committee to solve it. Luigi Lilio’s grand discovery was that there were a few numbers missing in the number of days it took for the Earth to revolve around the sun, and solved the problem. He advocated for three common years followed by one leap year to make up for the difference, plus a complicated discovery about the epacts (age of the moon) that helped solve the Easter date mix-up.

Here is Luigi presenting his work to the committee. Note the man on his right who is counting on his fingers!

One of the most fascinating component’s of Lilio’s work was what he didn’t have at his disposal at the time. No telescopes, as those were brought from Northern Europe later on in the 1500′s and famously used by Galileo. He was also theoretically calculating these extremely complicated movements of the moon before the decimal point was discovered! Many say the decimal point was “discovered” by Scottish mathematician John Napier in the late 1500′s, but there is some doubt that maybe Luigi Lilio was already using it when he was making his calculations for the new calendar. If he did already know about it, the proof would be in his manuscripts, but only some have been recovered. Some think the rest of his manuscripts are located in the Vatican library which is not open to all scholars.

Let’s hope that someday one of the historians trying to remind Calabrians about their famous ancestor gets to enter the library and find out what else Luigi Lilio discovered.

This post was written by Michele Connors, my Calabria-spouse counterpart who blogs at Mignon Potenza. Visit her site there for more great stories about expat life, Italian food, wine and more.

Would you like to find out more about your relatives in Calabria? Click here to see how we can help.

The culmination of a year of collaboration with my Calabrian Table Tour partner-in-crime, Tania Pascuzzi (In Italy Tours), paid off last week as we welcomed seven bright-eyed adventurers into our favorite little corner of Italy.

I met the group at the airport, along with our handsome guide/interpreter Andrea (who all the ladies tried to squeeze into their luggage for the trip back home) and our sweet but far-from-bilingual driver, Francesco. Somewhat quiet and timid on the ride to the Pollino, the group quickly meshed and by the end of the first night were already holding hands as they hiked to a hidden monastery and were singing, hopping and most-of-all laughing with each other as we danced the Tarantella.

The next few days were filled with a combination of long lunches, free-flowing wine, ruined castles, deep gorges, high peaks, pasta-rolling, cheese and wine-tasting and everywhere we turned, musicians, singers and would-be guides emerged to tell us more about “their” Calabria.

After four nights, we bid a sad farewell to our hosts-with the promise of a quick return-and headed south to Tropea. We stopped enroute so the group could have an upscale lunch of Calabrian seafood and chocolate tartufo and a secret behind-the-scenes visit to a local factory.

From Tropea, we ventured out to a nearby farm and learned the art of baking Calabrian bread and homemade pasta before feasting with the family on homemade *everything* – including, but not limited to, sopressata, ‘nduja, ragù, eggplant, peppers and pies.

We wrapped up our week at the luxurious private villa of one of southern Calabria’s most renowned chefs where we made crespelle (a specialty from my part of the boot) and enjoyed what was likely the most exquisite seafood meal I’ve ever had.

So many times throughout the week I forgot I was working … the group was tremendous and after a few days it didn’t just “feel” like I was with friends-I truly was. I left the tour Sunday with the renewed energy I believe vacations were intended to instill. Tour members kept thanking me, but their comments-such as, “after four trips, this is the first time I’ve seen the ‘real’ Italy, “this is the best vacation I’ve ever had” and the heartfelt “you pulled it off, kid!” are words of thanks I’ll never forget.

Tania and I are incredibly proud of the tour and are thankful to our guests for coming along on the first annual Calabrian Table Tour. We have already had dozens of requests for 2012 and will have our new dates published in the coming weeks. But until then, I’m going to have to find me a treadmill and a new pair of sneakers. Table tourin’ isn’t without its drawbacks. Or should I say, drawstrings. Which are the kind of pants I’ll be wearing if we keep this up.

Until next time … cin cin!

Are you heading to Calabria? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

Back when I began blogging in 2006, memes were everywhere-you were either tagging or being tagged every couple of weeks and listing, numbering and ranking meme-style was oh, too cool. Then, it changed. Nobody was tagging nuthin’ anymore and memes, it seemed, were out of fashion.

So, imagine my surprise earlier this month when I noticed that Tripbase had launched a new travel blogging meme called My 7 Links. It’s gone viral and Lisa from Wanderlust Women Travel tagged me just this morning.

The idea behind the meme is to reflect a little on your last, in my case five, years as a blogger and to highlight some of your favorite posts.

So, here goes.

Most Beautiful Post: It’s hard to say, really, but I always like re-reading Where I’m From. Not only does it remind me of my family back in Texas but it reminds me of where I was mentally and emotionally when I wrote the post.

Most Popular Post: Well, I get a new email regarding my post Five Tips for Surviving a Long Distance Relationship every couple of weeks so I suppose I’d have to go with that one, although Ma Che Cz**o Fa gets its share of hits, as well. People sure do love to cuss in Italiano.

Most Controversial: Well, my 7 Posts predecessor said, “a travel site doesn’t get much more controversial than gelato flavors,” and she was right. I haven’t had too much controversy but I do think I offended a few people with my post, Italian Men Get Smarter with Age.

Most Helpful: If you are planning to travel to Calabria, then How to Ruin Your Trip to Calabria really is the most helpful post – even if you don’t know it yet (or choose not to believe me!)

A Post Whose Success Surprised Me: Ha, hands down it is How to Eat a Persimmon Fruit. This post was written on a whim when I looked out our window, pondering my next post topic and saw this beautiful orange and green tree staring back at me. It’s probably one of my most-read posts on the whole site.

A Post which Didn’t Get the Attention it Deserved: The Art of Italian Coffee: Caffè Baci in Downtown Catanzaro, I was really hoping someone would offer to teach me.

Post I am Most Proud Of: The Life and Legacy of Buddy Moore, the post I wrote one month after receiving that middle-of-the-night phone call no expat wants to get.

And now, I’m passing the torch to:

Lulu of Calabriasella Mia, one of northern Calabria’s newest expat bloggers.

Leanne of From Australia to Italy, a newly-married, new mom expat who moved to the province of Cosenza (via a stop in Rome) a couple of years ago.

Joe of Italyville, a first-generation Calabrian-American who owns an Olive Tree business and blogs regularly about the food, language and culture of southern Italy.

And just outside of bella Calabria …

Tina, of Tina Tangos, a tango dancing translator living in Puglia and

Sara of Amid the Olive Trees, an English professor who writes about living (and parenting) in Puglia.

Check out the list of previously nominated bloggers here so we can keep the project going.

If you’ve participated, please leave a note in the comments so I can visit your post.

Are you heading to Calabria? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

Back in May I was contacted by a representative from Enjoy Prepaid (dot com), an online phone card / PC-to-phone company that is part of Nobel telecom. They asked if I was interested in trying out their calling card and other website features and since I’m always up for testing new products, especially those that help expats get by a little easier, I agreed.

Personally I’m a long-time Telecom client, myself. Noooooo …. not because their stellar customer service merits any such loyalty, but rather because they have a kick-ass calling plan that allows me to call unlimited landlines in the US, Canada and across Europe for €10 a month.

But still, I thought, I have to pay when I call cell phones in the US and more and more people are ditching their landlines, so having a fair-priced standby calling card never hurt. Right?

Right.

The guys at Enjoy Prepaid sent me a $20 credit back in May. I usually shy away from calling my family on their cells but with this nifty new card I’ve been able to call them and while I haven’t chatted at length, it’s been nice to be able to easily and inexpensively get in touch. I’ve used it to touch base with clients and for lengthy consultations … and I still have more than half of it left.

However, that’s not the best part.

While their cards do have decent rates-currently between $0.01-$0.03 per minute to call landlines in the US from Italy (currently $0.025 to call cells!), what I am really enjoying about the card is the ability to send text messages world-wide.

Depending on your plan (I have the Emerald Plan) it is free to send 160-character text messages to any cell phone-anywhere in the world.

Your friend on the other end won’t see your name or number as the sender (unless you purchase a virtual number with them) but just tell them “Intl Calls” is really you and you’ll be set. I’m also still trying to determine if you can receive texts from them – but I don’t think you can.

With all of their fun, Skype-like features, though, I found Enjoy Prepaid a little hard to follow. Yes, the calling card feature is fool-proof but to be able to call or text from your PC you have to download their software and there is a lot of activity and clutter on their homepage, which could make it difficult to quickly find what you need.

I’m not sure what overwhelming needs Enjoy Prepaid can meet that aren’t currently being met by online chat and Skype but I hope the best for them.

All in all, I’m *very* happy with the plan they sent me and if you’d like to try it – they are giving away free 15 minute trials to all new customers.

Enjoy and Happy Fourth of July, Americani!

Are you heading to Calabria? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

Ahhh, the dog days of summer – hot days, cool beaches and if you are lucky, even cooler summer vacations to southern Italy. If you are planning a trip this summer, you’ve probably done your homework. You’ve narrowed your must-see list, settled on hotels, chosen beaches, mountains and villages you’d like to explore. But are you really ready?

Here are five Calabrian travel tips that will help you make the most of your trip to southern Italy.

1. Properly Pack your Day Bag
Most people use some sort of day pack when they are traveling and having one in Calabria is definitely a good idea. However, as opposed to major cities where you can easily pick up something you forgot, you’ll need to pack everything you need, while keeping you bag as light as possible. A few things I always have in my bag are Tylenol or other medications, tissues, chap stick, water, light snacks, my camera, an ID, wallet and coins. If you are carrying a guide book, tear out (or make copies) of the pages you need and leave the heavy books at home.

2. Carry Sunscreen and Mosquito Repellant
Speaking of what to put in a day bag, you should also be armed with sunscreen and mosquito repellant. The skeeters are fierce around here-as is the sun. So make like a boyscout and be prepared!

3. Wear good socks and comfortable shoes
Unless you plan to get to a beach and stay there, you’ll likely do a fair amount of walking during your Calabria vacation. Many of the villages have uneven brick streets and the lungomares are unfriendly to tired feet. Wear good socks and comfortable shoes to avoid getting blisters.

4. Pack your own beach towel
If you are staying in a hotel or B&B that is *on* the beach they might have towels available for you to use. Or they might not. Pack your own beach towel or plan to buy one-a nice souvenir of your trip perhaps?-from one of the strolling salesmen on the beach.

5. Don’t Over-plan your Itinerary
It is true that Calabria is less touristy than other parts of the bel paese, but that doesn’t mean it won’t be crowded. In the summer, the beaches fill up with northern Italians, Calabrians who have “come home” for the summer and the locals who wait all year to hit the beach. If you over-plan your itinerary, you’ll likely get stressed by slow-moving traffic or transportation delays and you’ll feel rushed and frustrated throughout your trip. If you aren’t sure if you’ve planned the best itinerary, then the Trip Doctor itinerary review service - just $100 when you are spending thousands on a vacation – can give you peace of mind and ensure you are making the best possible decisions for your southern Italy trip.

Are you heading to Calabria? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

It’s no secret I’m a fan of off-the-beaten-track Italy. I love discovering new, under-appreciated locations and I love even more to be able to share them with you.

Vallo di Diano is in the province of Salerno in southern Campania and is part of Italy’s second largest national park. It borders Basilicata and encompasses 17 municipalities.

Even with all of my southern Italy travels, I’ve yet to personally experience the wonders of Valdiano, so I’m happy to introduce you today to fellow southern Italophile, Settimio Rienzo, director of Visit Vallo Diano.

Benvenuto, Settimio!

—

Vallo di Diano is a beautiful valley that is located in the Province of Salerno. It is rich in nature and cultural heritage and is conveniently placed near major tourist destinations in Southern Italy.

This area is characterized by historical and artistic treasures, well preserved monuments and attractive hilltop towns, such as Teggiano, Monte San Giacomo, Sassano, Sanza, Pertosa and Padula, where you will find the impressive UNESCO World Heritage Site, Certosa di San Lorenzo. (Seen below.)

Vallo di Diano has a number of of natural trails, routes and itineraries where you can enjoy the Cilento and Vallo di Diano Natural Reserve, one of the most important protected areas in the country while exploring caves, such as the captivating Grotte di Pertosa. (Seen below.)

In this area, visitors will discover remains from different periods from ancient Greece to the Middle Ages. Churches, castles and Monasteries characterize the towns and there is a local charm and hospitality that will rival anywhere else in Italy.

For more information, see Visit Vallo di Diano or ask Cherrye to include a stop in Vallo di Diano on your southern Italy itinerary.

Photos: Partecipiamo, Minniti and Maria Concetta Mauge via Panoramio

Would you believe my Italy blogger friends … the expat-world-famous, Sara, Jessica and Michelle (of Ms. Adventures in Italy, Why Go Italy and Bleeding Espresso, respectively) just published their 48th episode of the Eye of Italy podcast?

That’s remarkable.

Those of you who remember when the girls started the show, might recall that little ‘ole me was their first guest and guess what … ?

I’m baaaaaack!
(listen in here)

This week I’m sharing some summer travel tips with the girls, talking about our B&B’s new ancestry tours and getting Jessica hungry with details on the Calabrian Table Tour.

Now that summer is here, you can download the podcasts and take them with you on your afternoon strolls … that’s what we do. You can either subscribe to the podcasts (for free!) through iTunes or listen to the current episode and browse previous shows from their site.

Happy Listening!

Are you heading to Calabria or southern Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

Are you heading to Calabria? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

Photo: Splash Scuola

If there is one thing expats in southern Italy can agree on, it’s that we have the. best. food. in the country. Ok, ok, expats in other parts of Italy … back off! Your food rocks, too. But I have that whole southern pride thing going on and nothing makes me prouder than reviewing a cookbook that epitomizes southern Italian cooking-and Mamma Agata: Simple and Genuine does just that.

Oh yes, discerning readers, you’ve heard of Mamma Agata before. Last year my good friend Laura of Ciao Amalfi! reviewed Mamma Agata: Simple and Genuine here on My Bella Vita and she, too, loved the book.

Rather than rehash everything Laura said about how much fun the cookbook is to read, how simple and genuine the recipes are, how much you’ll truly like the author, Chiara and her family, I’m gonna tell you how this cookbook got me over a culinary hump.

You see, one of the first southern Italian dishes I fell in love with was Parmigiana di Melanzane, or eggplant parmesan. My father-in-law makes a great version and I often ask him to make it when friends or family come to visit. But I just couldn’t do it myself.

Oh, I tried.

And I tried.

And I tried some more.

But my parmigiana was always too soggy or too oily or too tasteless.

Until now.

I knew it was fate when I received my review copy of Mamma Agata’s cookbook and flipped it open to the parmigiana recipe. It spans three pages in the cookbook, making it one of the most time-consuming, if not most difficult, recipes in the book. But I was up for the challenge.

I read the recipe from top to bottom … a couple of times … and prepped for the big occasion. About half-way through my husband came in to offer a hand.

“Oh no, you don’t!” I told him.

“This is my dish … all mine. And I want all of the credit for it.”

And Mamma Agata did I deserve some credit!

For the first time in almost a decade of trying to perfect a parmigiana, my dish held tightly together. The layers were distinct and precise. The flavors harmonized and the colors sang.

Ok-maybe that’s a bit dramatic. But suffice it to say, that parmigiana was g-o-o-d.

So good, in fact, that we had it again the next day. I heated mine first … my husband ate it straight from the fridge.

So what are you waiting for? Stop droolin’ over my parmigiana and go make your own. You can get your copy of Mamma Agata: Simple and Genuine here. If you make some of the dishes, please come back and tell me. I’d love to celebrate your culinary successes with you, as well.

Want a private lesson on southern Italian cooking from Mamma Agata? Click here to see how I can incorporate that into your southern Italy itinerary.