MAIWA

We're in Selvedge Magazine

2012-01-27T11:37:00.000-08:00

The current issue of Selvedge Magazine has a bit of Canadian focus: Trade Routes to Trading Post: Beyond the Blanket - Textiles in Canada, by Joe Lewis, contains a potted history of some Canadian textile facts. We are happy to say that we received mention as one of the highlights.

The same issue contains a wonderful article by Ptolemy Mann on Jacquard weaving and what it means to revert to manual when your "dobby" (a computerized loom) fails. Carol Outram contributes a story on traditional clothing of the Arctic with remarkable photography by Karim Rholem. We've just added issue # 44 to our online store so you can pick it up here.

Handwoven Bengal Triple-Layer Shawl

2012-01-23T18:35:00.000-08:00

These have just arrived in the Maiwa store on Granville Island. Handwoven triple-layer shawls from Bengal. The top two layers feature a "thumb-weave" made by the weaver pressing his thumb into the warp as he weaves the cloth. The bottom, full-width layer, is a beautifully soft merino wool. Above this sits a three-quarter width layer of cotton mixed with zari (to give just a little shimmer) and above this is a half-width layer of cotton.

We like to hold these shawls up as a beautiful example of techniques that can only be done by hand. These shawls give endless possibilities - any of the three layers can be shown, or they can be twisted to bunch up all three layers and keep you cozy warm. $189 only at the Granville Island Store. Available in a variety of colour combinations.

Come down and see on Granville Island - the artisan heart of Vancouver. Open 10 - 7 every day of the week.

Maiwa attends the Jaipur Literary Festival - and makes the front page

2012-01-21T23:08:00.000-08:00

Sophena Kwon and Ja Pace caught at the Jaipur Literary Festival

Taking a little break from putting together next year's clothing line, some of Team Maiwa were caught by a photographer at the opening of the Jaipur Literary Festival. The very talented Sophena Kwon left and Ja Pace, right. Sophena is in India working on the clothing line, designing and photography. She is there with both her mother Charllotte Kwon and brother Alex Kwon. Ja, who regular readers will recognize as one of the dancers at our fashion show, and a model for some of our summer clothing. is traveling around India with friends and family. Ja opened the festival together with 15 drummers on Friday morning. By coincidence Ja had met up with one of her drumming teachers who's band just happened to be the opening act - and so she was invited up on stage. Both women are wearing Maiwa clothing.

It's 2012 - Start Something

2012-01-14T22:00:00.000-08:00

Enter the promotional code "2012" in the COUPON CODE for 10% off when you add a product to your cart.

If we sell it online, you can get 10% off.

Discount is applied to items in the online store only.

Discount is applied before taxes and does not include shipping.

2012 - A Well-Patterned Year

2012-01-11T11:35:00.000-08:00

We have been working hard behind the scenes to place more artisan work online. It looks like 2012 is going to be a well-patterned year. Here are some of the highlights:

Ajrakh Cloth

Eight new patterns of Ajrakh. Organic Cotton.

Natural Dyes. Hand blockprinted in the Kutch Desert of western India.

More about Ajrakh • See online

Dabu Cloth

Four new patterns of Dabu. Organic Cotton.

Natural Dyes. Hand blockprinted in a traditional blockprinting Village

just outside of Jaipur, India.

More about Dabu • See online

Kalamkari Cloth

Four new patterns of Kalamkari. Organic Cotton.

Natural Dyes. Hand blockprinted in Southeast India.

More about Kalamkari • See online

Boiled Kashmir Blankets

Boiled Kashmir Blankets.

Handwoven from 100% merino wool. Slightly felted through a boiling process.

See online

City Opera Vancouver outside the Maiwa Store

2011-12-22T17:02:00.000-08:00

Opera on Granville Island from Michael Sider on Vimeo.

Yes - it's Christmas. And this Christmas, City Opera Vancouver did what they call an "Opera Flash" on Granville Island. Exquisite caroling in the Public Market and - about 1 min 30 seconds into this video - outside the Maiwa store.

So here's to Christmas, and our biggest, warmest, shawl-wrapped wishes to everyone to have the best one yet.

From Everyone at Maiwa.

Hand/Eye #6 the Colour Issue

2011-12-08T14:56:00.000-08:00

Wool shawls woven in Bhujodi village, Vishram Valji Vankar in the background.

HAND/EYE has done it again. This time with an entire issue dedicated to colour. We are especially proud of this issue because we were able to contribute to it. Maiwa editor, Tim McLaughlin has written an article on Lac red. Tim takes the reader through the harvest and history of lac and ends up at Bhujodi, a village in India's Kutch desert, where master weaver Shamji Vishram Vankar is behind the revival of lac and other natural dyes.

Regular readers will recognize Shamji as the weaver of a magnificent Masterworks exhibition piece.

Among the other contributors in the issue are Marta Turok - writing about Mexico's shellfish purple, Adam Levin - writing about Kente, the royal Ashanti cloth of west Africa, Marcella Echavarria - interviewing Gasali Adeyemo about Nigerian Indigo and Abigail Doan - writing about Beth Nielsen of Khadi and Co. Though it features natural colour, the issue also explores emerald mining in Zambia, the use of white in the ecstatic Candomblé religion of Brazil, and the role of red in Macedonian traditional dress. As with previous issues of HAND/EYE #6 is lushly illustrated with beautiful photography.

The magazine is available in our online store for $12.95 cdn. You can also flip through it in Maiwa Supply.

Let it Shine - Late Nights at Maiwa Supply

2011-12-06T10:24:00.000-08:00

Friday December 9th and 16th only,

Maiwa Supply will be open until 10pm.

We are staying open late and offer you a seasonal enticement:

mulled wine, treats, and a special coupon good for

20% off every $100 spent (before taxes)

The Holidays are the perfect time for a new project.

For yourself or for those you love.

Teach, learn, share, enjoy.

You supply the creativity,

we supply the rest.

Print the coupon below or show it to us on your phone to recieve 20% off a purchace of $100.

This offer is only good in Maiwa Supply on the dates and times above.

November Arrivals at Maiwa East

2011-12-01T12:13:00.000-08:00

These are just some of the things that have come into our warehouse space at Maiwa East. Above - marble figures salvaged from building demonlition. Each one has its own face and makes a nice heavy book-end. 49.95 each.

We receive containers on a regular basis holding old furniture, carved doors & thresholds, teak cabinets, coffee tables, book cases, engraved water urns, ironwork chairs and tables, furniture handpainted by the renowned Abhi Shakar and Jetu Singh, and many other items both large and small.

A selection of old and handmade scissors. Some of these items have seen a lifetime of use in the hands of tailors. Some have been cleverly forged by the village smith. Quirky and beautiful at the same time. $19.95 each.

Two-door teak cabinet. Aprox 5' high x 33" wide x 14" deep. A fine addidtion to any room, the clear glass on the upper doors lets you show off your books or textiles, while the solid lower doors alows you to store less showy items. $599.00

Two-door teak cabinet. Aprox 3' 6' high x 30" wide x 18" deep. This wooden cabinet has an ornate rail at the top and is quite deep. Perfect for storing blankets or larger items. $399.00

Marble disks. We've been told that these were traditionally used as a kind of press to put a pattern in mango pulp. The ones shown here are the perfect size for a large candle or bottle of wine. Available in a variety of patterns. $19.95 each.

MAIWA EAST

More than you imagine.

Open Thursday, Friday, Saturday 10 - 5

Open Sunday 11 - 5

The monsoons are over and the Ajrakh is here!

2011-11-25T16:35:00.000-08:00

Available online.

It has been an exceptionally long, wet, monsoon in the Kutch Desert - where our Ajrakh is made. This is a good thing. As you can see on the left, the reservoir of the ancient walled-city of Bhuj is full. The desert is in bloom. People have prospered. But, sadly, you can't blockprint during the monsoon.

So our Ajrakh order was delayed until the rains stopped. But now the order is finished, shipped, unpacked, and in the store - and what a glorious spectacle it is!

A line of bedding that fills your room with the exquisite delights of India. You will also enjoy the feeling of organic cotton, dyed naturally in a rich beautiful palette. Hand printed by the master craftspeope who have practiced the art for generations.

For more details about organic certification and to see this sensual line of bedding please visit our Granville Island Store, located in the Net Loft, Granville Island, Vancouver.

100% Certified Organic Cotton. Hand blockprinted and naturally dyed by master craftspeople.

Wooden Ajrakh Printing Block

Natural dyes and an organic indigo vat means the waste
water goes directly to irrigate the tomatoes

Ismailbhai wades through a lush crop of fennel.

Ajrakh bedding - a pattern to suit every taste.

Dhebariya Embroidery - New to the Store

2011-11-18T15:51:00.000-08:00

On our recent visit to the Kutch desert we connected with a new and powerful group of emboriderers: the Dhebariya Rabari. A tribal group with the strong, bold designs that have made the nomadic Rabari famous - now working in a mixture of embroidery and appliqué.

These striking patterns are now in the store and can be found on:

24" x 24" cushions - $189.95

16" x 16" cushions - $79.95

12" x 24" bolster - $89.95

Medium and small bags in a pencil case format

$24.95 - 29.96

Because each embroidery is a character, an individual artwork, these exquisite pieces are available only in the Maiwa Store.

New to the Store: Kalamkari Bedding

2011-11-07T13:49:00.000-08:00

The distinctive block and mallet used in kalamkari blockprinting.

The designs of old Persia

printed by the most skilled

craftspeople of South India

The term Kalamkari is derived from "kalam" pen, and "kari" work. The original kalamkaris had fine black lines drawn with a stylus. They had exceptional depictions of floral and geometric imagery and were made in South India for the markets of Persia. With the British presence in India a demand was created for printed cottons in both England and Europe and kalamkaris became hugely popular.

Ever since the eighteen century kalamkaris have been made with blocks rather than pens. The technique is specialized and deploys both motifs and processes which are not found in any other part of India.

Maiwa has been working with kalamkari craftsmen for a number of years. On our 2011 visit we expanded our order and began work on clothing designs to take advantage of the distinctive patterns.

This week we have received our first shipment of kalamkari bedding into the store. You are invited to come down and unfold as many as you like. The patterns are full of personality and represent a glorious tradition.

A selection of prints piled on the Maiwa bed - detail in every fold.

Bedsheets 60" x 60" - 49.95
Bedsheets 60" x 90" - 59.95
Bedsheets 90" x 90" - 89.95
Duvet Cover - Available to be made-up - 159.95
Pillow Case - 14.95
Cushion Cover 16" - 15.95
Cushion Cover 24" - 19.95
Napkin - 5.95

Available In Store Only.

Fabric in piles after its first printing. Soon it will be printed with additional colours.

Wrap Party Auction Exceeds Expectations

2011-10-31T17:58:00.000-07:00

Charllotte the auctioneer.

Above, the highlight of the auction occured when Charllotte started the bidding on a handwoven, naturally dyed shawl from Shamji. This piece was a twin of the one in the Masterworks exhibition and, to judge by the fast-paced bidding, more than one person was willing to go the distance.

This is our first year running the events much closer to home. All lectures and events took place in the Net Loft. Our exhibitions took place at Maiwa East. For us that meant we could offer a much more intimate experience. The symposium is now very close to both our stores and workshop spaces. We feel the transition has been very successful.

Alex and Tosh prepare the video screen
for the Foundation slideshow.

The transition has been so successful, in fact, that we are considering moving to an “every year” schedule for the symposium. This gives us the flexibility to bring in world-class textile artisans to Vancouver for both workshops and lectures.

We are working hard to make Vancouver the textile centre of the world.

28 auction lots, on display,
labeled and ready to go!

A symposium of this scope does not come without a lot of effort from a host of individuals. That means, instructors, volunteers, and staff. Anyone who has been in a the room with us, as we negotiate scheduling knows what a commitment is needed to bring the Symposium to a successful conclusion. We have flights coming into the airport, instructors being delivered to hotels, workshop supplies being sorted into bins and delivered where they are needed on time. We have set-up and tear down for events, we have caterers, wine and food orders arriving and we have the paperwork that goes with this. Permits, schedules, contracts, timelines. We'd like to send a heartfelt THANK YOU to everyone involved.

The Wrap Party is our biggest fundraiser for the Maiwa Foundation. If you’ve been part of the Symposium so far you probably have seen some of the work that has come out of the Foundation. In January 2011 we brought natural dye chemist Michel Garcia to Bengal to lead an artisan Masterclass. We have also used the Foundation to resolve the Jawaja Leatherworker’s – who were indentured to a predatory lender, to assist the Ajrah Blockprinters of Ajrakhpur and Damadkha with their water situation and to assist artisans throughout the Kutch Desert in the aftermath of the disasterous 2001 earthquake.

A delicious selection of door prizes greets the guests.

The evening raised over 17,000 dollars for the Maiwa Foundation. We are extremely grateful to our audience for all the support. We would also like to say we had a fantastic time dancing.

Jamie Dale and the Hip Replacements lead the groove.

A State of Wrapture

2011-10-28T19:52:00.000-07:00

It was a transcendent evening indeed. Wrapture: Unstitched and Enfolded was our slow clothes fashion show. Here are some photos that highlight the evening and Charllotte's words that set the stage.

Fashion is a mirror language. It allows us to speak about ourselves without talking; to reflect values, aesthetics, and meanings simply by our appearance.

Fashion is one of our lavish appetites. A great hunger. It exists in the space between who we are and how we want the world to be.

We have very clear ideas about how we want our world to be at Maiwa, we are, above all, drawn to the sensual world – but on a human scale.

We have simple desires, for beautiful things, for well-made things. For beautiful, well-made things that improve lives. Empower women. Reduce poverty. Sustain villages. Maintain skills. These are the very opposite of guilty pleasures. Neither are they innocent pleasures – for so much of the values here are founded in knowledge, awareness and education. We might call these – true pleasures.

The works you will see this evening are organized by the Indian colour system of chakras. The name derives from the Sanskrit word for “wheel” or “turning”. It is a concept that resonates deeply with the transformation of fibre into cloth. You will notice the evening progress through each of the chakras and it’s associated colour:

White/Black – an absence of colour.

Orange/Red – representing the earth

Yellow – fire

Green – air

Blue/Violet energy

We would also like to introduce the notion of cloth with soul. Anyone who has ever stood next to a weaver or sat at a loom has experienced cloth growing inch by inch. This is the place where our world begins. Each step in the creation of a garment is as vital and as meaningful as the weaving of the cloth.

And so, we would like to draw you in. Wrapture. The feeling of being enfolded in our material. The delight of true pleasures. Welcome everyone – to the sensual world.

Photos by Chelsea Brooke Roisum.

Just a reminder that Saturday October 29th is our last event of the 2011 Symposium. Don't miss the Maiwa Wrap Party and Auction. Tickets purchased online will be held at the door.

What's Up For Auction?

2011-10-25T14:12:00.000-07:00

GET TICKETS

Here is the list of lots that go on the block Saturday October 29th. But the evening is not only about fundraising for the Maiwa Foundation - it is our concluding celebration for the 2011 Textile Symposium. There will be live music from Jamie Dale & the Hip Replacements, dancing, yummy food and drink.

The event will be held in the Net Loft on Granville Island.

7:30 pm Saturday October 29th

UP FOR BID

(click on image for a large version)

1 Old teak cabinet (Value $600)

2 Old teak mirror (Value $250)

3 Old teak cash box (Value $250)

4 Old teak bowl with complete Maiwa queen size bedding set (1 duvet cover, 1 sheet, 2 regular pillow cases, 2 - 24” cushions, 2 - 16” cushions - (Value $540)

5 A complete Maiwa outfit (Value $500)

6 A complete Maiwa outfit, Vintage quilt coat, 100 panel butterfly skirt, cotton top. (Value $800)

7 Old teak cabinet (Value $500)

8 Complete Maiwa outfit (Value $450)

9 Jawaja wool carpet 4’ x 6’ and two Rabari cushions (Value $365)

10 KMVS wall hanging (Value $450)

11 Exhibition double-sided Ajrakh blockprint (Value $600)

12 KMVS Wallhanging – 12 panel sampler (Value $1200)

13 Handwoven, handstitched, khadi and indigo quilt from LIVING BLUE in Bangladesh (Value $600)

14 Naturally dyed, handwoven wool shawl from Shyamji - this piece is a twin of the one featured in the Masterworks exhibition (Value $600)

15 Old teak set of drawers (Value $700)

16 White on White handstitched applique bedcover (Value $190)

17 DOBAG carpet 4’3” x 4’6” (Value $1550)

18 DOBAG kilim 3’8” x 6’8” (Value $750)

19 Handpainted jewellry box (Value $130)

20 Complete Maiwa Outfit (Value $450)

21 Complete Maiwa Outfit (Value $600)

22 Jawaja Leather travel bag – donated by Maiwa with an Ajrakh silk scarf – donated by Ros Aylmer (Value $300)

23 Complete Maiwa bed set (1 duvet, 1 sheet, 2 pillow covers, 2 pillow cases) a bell and wooden bowl (Value $450)

24 Teak bajot with hand carved teak printing blocks (Value $300)

25 Teak bowl with two hand embroidered cusions and a handwoven sari length of fabric donated by Ros Aylmer (Value $300)

26 Handmade felt scarf and hat (Wensleydale, Merina and Silk) -donated by Alice Philips and a leather bag – donated by Maiwa (Value $250)

27 Vintage Cotton Quilt and a Jawaja Leather Project Bag (Value $300)

Quilters of Gees Bend return to Maiwa

2011-10-21T12:00:00.000-07:00

Last night (October 20) was the first of two lectures delivered by the quilters of Gee's Bend. Present were (l-r) Revil Mosley, China Pettway and Louisiana Bendolph. If Louisiana looks a bit sheepish, it's because it was her birthday and Revil and China (and the audience) were singing happy birthday to her.

It was a powerful evening – filled with history, talk of quilting, stitches, stories, and song. The presentation was introduced by Matt Arnett of Tinwood Media - the publisher responsible for bringing the quilts of Gee's Bend to widespread public attention.

China Pettway speaks about quilts as art and as bedcovers.

Louisiana speaks about faith and what goes into a quilt.

Revil Mosely speaks with the audience about how the quilts are made.

Matt Arnett took the group through an historic introduction to the Gee's Bend Area
and a slideshow of the many places the quilts have been showcased.

The quilters of Gee's Bend take questions from the audience and speak about their work.

In 2005 the quilters of Gee's Bend first visited Vancouver to present a lecture and workshops at the Maiwa Textile Symposium. During that historic visit the quilters of Gee's Bend were able to meet two of the embroiderers from the Kutch Desert in India. Present in the Maiwa Loft, pictured below are (l-r) Meguben and Latchuben from KMVS, Mary Lee Bendolph, Louisiana Bendolph and Arlonzia Pettway from Gee's Bend.

The group will deliver a second presentation tonight (a few tickets available at the door) and three workshops during their stay in Vancouver.

Textiles at an Exhibition

2011-10-17T14:42:00.000-07:00

These are the works that were on display as part of the Masterworks Exhibit and the information identifying the artisan and how the masterclass influenced production. Click on the images to see larger versions.

Group: Koyyalgudem

Region: Koyyalgudem, Andhra Pradesh, India

Artisans: Shrinath Edem

Specialty: Ikat dyeing and weaving

The Masterwork: Double ikat on silk with gold zari thread. Dyed with indigo, cochineal, and lac.

Comments: In our exhibit piece we have used three colours: indigo, black, and red. The indigo dyeing we have done in our traditional way.

The black was obtained from a new technique learned at the masterclass: overdyeing red with indigo. This has given us the ability to use natural dyes to create a black colour that is fast. The black shade we made is an interesting reddish black, different from the typical jet black.

The red colour used in the warp has also been achieved through a new method developed at the workshop. This is the first time ever that we have created a red using cochineal and lac. We used yarn dyed with alizarin in the traditional way for the weft.

We also learned to refine the mordant process. Earlier, we used to dye the yarn immediately after mordanting. In the workshop, we learned that the yarn should be dried after the mordant process, washed, and then dyed. With this improvement, we are able to get better colours than before. We used this process for our masterwork.

The new knowledge inspired us to try a new technique in our weaving. We combined linked weaving for the first time with his ikat technique, using zari and mulberry silk.

Our knowledge of indigo dyeing has increased. We learned that the henna vat is good for dyeing silk in indigo and the ferrous vat is a simple, easy, and very good vat for dyeing cotton yarn in indigo. We also learned about the use of alum acetate as a mordant.

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Group: Bhujodi weavers & dyers

Region: Bhujodi village, Kutch Desert, Gujarat, India

Artisans: Shamji Vishram Vankar

Specialty: Lac and indigo on wool. Traditional woollen shawls

The Masterwork: Wool shawl dyed with lac, indigo, henna, sappanwood, madder and cutch.

Comments: We learned how to control a natural indigo fermentation vat through regulating the temperature. Earlier methods were both slow and inconsistent. We now use an immersion heater with our vats buried in the ground.

For lac dyeing, we learned how to accurately match the quantity of tamarind to the quantity of wool. Previous methods resulted in sticky yarns and were only effective on the local “desi” wool. When we tried to dye finer wools such as merino they became sticky and would snap.

In the workshop we learned the best dye methods for wools. We used these new methods to dye merino wool successfully in lac for the first time. We had tried before, but never got good results. In this piece we got the right colours and a usable yarn for weaving.

We also learned a repeatable procedure for using dyes like cutch, and sapanwood. We are now able to get consistent, repeatable results. Before everything was ad-hoc. Sometimes it worked - sometimes it didn’t. Often we didn’t know why. Now the lustre of our yarns has improved because of sufficient boiling.

Overall, our confidence in producing new colours with natural dyes has increased.

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Group: Aranya Natural Dye Project

Region: Munar Hills, Kerela, India

Artisans: Victoria Krishnakumar, Mrs. Banumathy, Mrs. Mallika

Specialty: Shibori patterning techniques with natural dyes.

The Masterwork: Quilt. Each member of Aranya contributed a square of cloth that they created.

Comments: I am glad to inform you that we made a master class piece with various types of Itajime and Shibori using natural dyes. The size of the piece is 275cm long and 65cm wide. For mordants we have used aluminium acetate to fix the colour.

The back side of the cloth is made from Linen fabric dyed with indigo. The method used is the ferrous vat.

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Group: Khatri Blockprinters
Region: Ajrakhpur, Kutch Desert, Gujarat, India

Artisans: Ismail Mohammed Khatri

Specialty: Traditional Ajrakh blockprint with natural dyes.

The Masterwork: Traditional Ajrakh blockprint. Dyed with indigo and lac.

Comments: We dyed an Ajrakh using indigo and lac. Previously we would have used indigo and alizarin (a dye component found in madder which is now produced synthetically). We are happy to replace the synthetic alizarin with natural lac. This was the lac technique that we learned in the masterclass.

We also learned about water treatment and have put this knowledge to use. This has improved the lustre of our colours.

We learned many new things at the workshop, but were especially impressed with the lab tests. We improved our understanding of the different forms of alum, (sulphate, acetate etc.) We think that there should be two or three such workshops to reinforce our education and help us absorb all the aspects in a thorough way.

We were particularly impressed with the testing of water, porosity, and phosphorus tests etc. It is very difficult for us to get the water checked at source and it needs to be checked with every production to ensure consistency.

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Group: Khatri Blockprinters

Region: Ajrakhpur, Kutch Desert, Gujarat, India

Artisans: Adham Khatri

Specialty: Contemporary blockprinting, and bandhani, with natural dyes.

The Masterwork: Bandhani cloth dyed with henna and indigo.

Comments: We worked on silk mordanted with myrobalan. The black rings are blockprinted with iron. The cloth is boiled in alizarin and then bandhani tied to match the blockprinted rings. We then used the Ferrous Vat method for dyeing Indigo. We learned this process in the workshop and found it to be quicker than our traditional natural way of dyeing indigo. Finally the pieces is dyed in rhubarb.

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Group: Khatri Blockprinters

Region: Ajrakhpur, Kutch Desert, Gujarat, India

Artisans: Aurangzeb Khatri

Specialty: Traditional blockprint with natural dyes.

The Masterworks: 2 Blockprinted Ajrakhs on silk. 1) Dyed with henna, rhubarb and indigo. 2) Dyed with lac and indigo.

Comments: We used alum acetate as a mordant on one of the pieces. Previously we had used only alum.

We used a henna vat for indigo dyeing. We also created a piece with lac dye, which we learned in the workshop. The piece we sent also shows rhubarb dyeing which we did in the traditional way.

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Group: Bandhani tyers

Region: Bhuj, Kutch Desert, Gujarat, India

Artisans: Jabbar Khatri

Specialty: Bandhani tie and dye.

The Masterwork: Bandhani tied piece on silk dyed with henna, indigo and madder.

Comments: For the first time ever, we first applied alum and dyed the fabric in henna. After which it went for tying. Once tied, we dyed the fabric in indigo and (for the first time again) we gave the indigo a henna topping.

After this we did a resist and dyed the fabric again in madder (this was the only old dyeing technique for this piece, all the other dyeing processes come from what we learned at the workshop).

A significant new idea for us was that we could get a better green by doing the henna process in warm water. Earlier, we used to boil the water, which never gave us a satisfactory green, whereas the slow heating and controlled temperature has given us a better green!

Our understanding and knowledge of alum acetate, ferrous acetate, and the overall natural dyeing process has improved quite a bit since the workshop.

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Group: Sabahar

Region: Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

Artisans: Kathy Marshall, Burtukanteshome Workineh, Almaznegash Yefru

Specialty: The use of hand-spun eri silk in naturally dyed, handwoven shawls.

The Masterwork: Wall hanging, 100% silk - mulberry and eri. The flowers are mulberry silk cocoons.

Comments: Our creation represents our journey: trying to use our knew knowledge of organic fruit vats with indigo dye in Ethiopia.

It took many attempts and a lot of effort – not to mention many kilograms of mangos, bananas and henna.

We finally succeeded. The cocoon flowers are all dyed with indigo. The green cocoon flowers are dyed with a combination of indigo and mescal flowers. Mescal is the national flower of Ethiopia.

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Group: Guldasta

Region: Boko, Assam, India

Artisans: Chandan and Shrinalatha Keshab

Specialty: Handwoven wild silks.

The Masterwork: Warp and weft are handspun eri silk. Both pieces use the woven shibori technique. The grey piece is dyed in jackfruit and lac with an alum mordant. The gold piece is dyed in myrobalan with an alum and iron mordant.

Comments: We were very excited to learn about woven shibori. It is a patterning tecnhnique that can be taught to many more weavers in our area, giving people a new skill for enhancing their livelihood.

We have dyed yarn with aluminium sulphate as a mordant. Before we used to prepare aluminium potassium sulphate for mordanting, which was a costly preparation and could be used only for one dye lot. It could not be stored for later. This meant that the remaining portion of mordant had to be thrown away, which was a waste. In the workshop we learned to make aluminium sulphate, which is not only more economical (now that it can be stored) but it is also more environmentally friendly, since they we not have to use potassium.

These two major innovations from this workshop will significantly impact our traditional craft practice.

Apart from this, we have learned two new variations for indigo vats. Traditionally we knew only one vat technique, which limited our work because of the complexity involved. Having learned these two additional simple techniques is going to make our work easier and will save costs.

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Group: Dosaya Blockprinters

Region: Bagru, Rajasthan, India

Artisans: Mahesh Dosaya

Specialty: Dabu mud printing - a form of traditional blockprint from the Jaipur area using dabu mud resist.

The Masterwork: Two large pieces of cotton, blockprinted with natural indigo, madder, henna, and iron.

Comments: Our masterwork pieces are dyed with indigo made through the ferrous vat process (learned at the workshop). The reds are obtained with 100% pure madder. For our piece we changed our source of alum so that we mordanted with alum that did not contain any ferrous impurities - this we learned from Michel Garcia.

The printing takes advantage of traditional techniques which were also taught at the workshop such as thickening the dyes with guar gum. We used the traditional “ironwater” (a ferrous mixture) to get our blacks.

The design is from my grandfather and is a traditional Bagru design for a bed cover. Our technique is known as “dabu and block.”

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Group: Bengal Weavers

Region: Bengal, India

Artisans: Gautam Kumar Basak

Specialty: Jamdani and Bengal weaves

The Masterwork: Two pieces using woven shibori on silk, dyed with indigo.

Comments: Earlier we had tried something like the shibori technique but we did not complete the binding process properly. The dyes seeped into the part of the fabric we wished to resist.

In the master class we learned that choosing the weft yarn is also important for the patterns to be clear.

We learned that the shibori binding thread used before was not good. Now with correct threads the process works. Exposure to the different weave structure has helped us innovate more on the weaving patterns and the form.

Learning the details of woven shibori was absolutely important. We applied what we learned to the pieces.

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Group: Catharine Ellis

Region: North Carolina, USA

Artisan: Catharine Ellis

Specialty: Woven Shibori

The Masterwork: Egyptian cotton, woven at the Oriole Mill. Mordanted with gallic tannin and aluminum acetate. Cloth gathered and dyed in logwood, then released and dyed in weld.

Comments: I will say right up front that natural dyes are hard - a lot of physical work and still so many unknowns for me. But while in India with you I made the commitment to pursue this and have stuck to it. I learn something every day I’m in the studio - often it’s not what I set out to learn, but I get to observe what reveals itself after things don’t turn out the way I thought they would.

One of the things that made the biggest impression on me was the lightweight fabrics that were woven in Bengal. It left me with a lust for lightweight cloth.

The weld is from my garden.

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Group: Gale Anderson-Palm

Region: Rimby, Alberta, Canada

Artisan: Gale Anderson-Palm

Specialty: Indigo dyeing, hand weaving

The Masterwork: Indigo shawl, Madder/cochineal shawl

Comments: I have been dyeing like a mad woman, at all hours of the night and day - once in an electrical storm which I was sure was The End Of The World.

The indigo shawl is one of my own handwoven singles, linen at 16 ends per inch. I used the ferrous indigo vat as taught by Michel Garcia.

The other shawl is a Bengal weave, it was white when I started. I used madder at 100% weight of fibre and ½ oz. of cochineal for good measure. The ferrous vat again.

Each shawl was dyed twice using the pole shibori method. I have been working on several pieces. I am not entirely happy - the indigo seems muddy & dull-looking as opposed to clear and bright. Much to learn!

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Group: Jane Stafford

Region: Salt Spring Island, Canada

Artisan: Jane Stafford

Specialty: The architecture of cloth

The Masterwork: Handwoven cotton/silk with Sequin yarn using hand-punched sequins.

Comments: While the Masterclass was in progress, I spent a portion of my time walking in the village, visiting and observing the weavers.

It was inspiring to see them using the same yarns to create so many different looks in their cloth. Some techniques were very complex, done with full Jacquard heads, manipulating every single warp thread individually, but many weavers employed simple methods to create astonishing cloth. These were familiar techniques that I have taught in my workshops for years. It was both inspiring and reassuring to see these very same techniques being used with yarns so fine you could barely see them.

The weavers were using the same yarns over and over again – so I chose to limit my sample yarns to just two (2/16 cotton for warp and 2/30 silk for weft). I reviewed photos of my favourite Saris and chose 6 colours to create all the fabrics plus the sequin yarn that they make by hand. I needed sequins to stuff into the double-weave pockets and could’t find any, so I decided to make my own by punching them from colourful pop cans with a paper punch. My goal was to create 5 fabrics using the same two yarns, five colours and some of the simple yet highly effective techniques that were being used in Bengal.

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Group: Maiwa Handprints

Region: Vancouver, Canada

Artisan: Danielle Bush

Specialty: Natural dyes

The Masterwork: (in progress)

Seven mandalas inspired by the Indian chakra system to be printed with natural dyes on silk and organic cotton.

Comments: For my masterclass piece, I wanted to create something that reflected the Indian sensibility toward colours and their specific healing properties. Working within the chakra energy system, I have designed seven mandalas to be painted with natural dyes on organic cotton.

Sahasrara ~ Crown

Anja ~ Minds Eye

Vishuddha ~ Voice

Anahata ~ Heart

Manipura ~ Solar Plexus

Svadhisthana ~ Sacral

Muladhara ~ Root

Working at Maiwa Handprints has been a constant inspiration for me. Participating in the Masterclass workshop and working alongside exceptional artisans in India has nurtured my growing passion and understanding for natural dyes and surface design.

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Group: Maiwa Handprints

Region: Vancouver, Canada

Artisan: Tim McLaughlin

Specialty: Photography and videography, editing, archiving, and writing

The Masterwork: Two fragments of video footage showing key moments in the unfolding of the workshop.

Comments: Sometimes the part stands in for the whole – and so it is for me with these video clips. They are short moments that recall everything that happened in one remarkable week.

Chandan’s meditative – almost therapeutic – indigo dyeing is a testament to stillness. It is a quiet moment in the weather of activity that took place each day. Here is a man seduced by blue.

The unwrapping of a dyed piece was done in groups with much laughter and excitement. Faces and dyed hands. Artisans proudly holding what is newly-made up to the light.

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Group: Maiwa Handprints

Region: Vancouver, Canada

Artisan: Charllotte Kwon, Sophena Kwon

Specialty: Design and production of clothing featuring natural dyes and promoting the continuation of artisan traditions.

The Masterwork: Cotton scarves and linen tea-towels dyed a range of colours with natural dyes.

Comments: Maiwa works on linen - it is one of the hardest fibres to naturally dye. We love linen and needed to be able to dye it as effectively as we naturally-dye cotton.

Indian artisans are skilled in dyeing cotton, but like us they don’t have deep experience with linen.

We have seen significant impovement by using alum acetate at 8% on linen with a long (2 day) mordant which is neutralized with calcium carbonate prior to dyeing. We are still experimenting with dry/wet hot/cold variations.

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Did you see the exhibit? Comments are welcome.

Jorie Johnson Felt Exhibit Opening

2011-10-16T19:25:00.000-07:00

Friday October 14th was the opening of "Warm Biz" an exhibition of the textiles of Jorie Johnson. Put on by the Silk Weaving Studio and Maiwa Handprints, this exhibition offers a chance to see many of the pieces that were talked about at Jorie Johnson's lecture "In Praise of Sheep"

The exhibition was introduced by Diana Sanderson and Jorie was present to speak about the inspiration and origins of her works.

The exhibit will run until November 15th, 2011. We encourage everyone to visit the Silk Weaving Studio and check out these incredible felted works.

23 Masters in a Room

2011-10-14T17:50:00.000-07:00

Masterworks - before the doors open.

It is perhaps the most concrete example to date of the work that the Maiwa Foundation does. Our main goal and primary project was to gather together master craftspeople who use natural dyes for a week-long workshop of demos and troubleshooting with natural-dye specialist Michel Garcia. You can read all the details of that adventure in our series of Blog Posts. On the last day of the class we announced the Masterworks Challenge to the artists - use new techniques and skills developed at the workshop to create a masterwork. The Maiwa Foundation would commission the work, the works would become part of the Maiwa Textile Collection and form this exhibition.

A discerning crowd of textile artists and enthusiasts give the works a detailed inspection.

The exhibition opened last night. It was packed. It was also a fine display of exceptional work. For those of you who could not attend in person, we are in the process of editing together some photos of the pieces which we will post to the blog along with the descriptions of the works and the comments that the artisans passed to us with their finished pieces.

Gale Anderson-Palm (right) and Jane Stafford - two assistants in the Mastersclass,
explain works that they have contributed to the exhibition.

In addition to the works sent by the participants of the workshop, the exhibit included works by the Maiwa organizers, and assistants. These were not commissioned by the foundation, but rather were contributed by the individuals.

The Naad Collective add music to the evening.

It was a very successful evening. We were so incredibly proud to place the accomplishments of these skilled artisans on public display. Thank you to everyone who attended. The exhibition remains up until 4pm Sunday October 16th.

Comments are welcome.

In Praise of Sheep

2011-10-13T14:29:00.000-07:00

Jorie Johnson addresses the crowd before the lights go down and the show starts.

Last night Jorie Johnson praised sheep - and the unique qualities of wools to make felts. She considered the influence of living in Kyoto, Japan, (the end/start of the silk road) on her work, and told some stories of encounters with Tibetan shepherds. Jorie told the audience about the cutting edge of felt work - including an incredible combination of lacquerware and felt to make the most unusual drinking vessels.

Diana Sanderson introduces Jorie Johnson

Jorie's talk was introduced by Diana Sanderson of the Silk Weaving Studio (located on Granville Island). Diana and Jorie were busy most of the afternoon eyeing how best to display Jorie Johnson's exhibit which has its opening this Friday October 14th.

Tonight (October 13) is the opening of the Masterworks Exhibition. We've been transforming Maiwa East, once again into a gallery environment to showcase a collection of exceptional textiles.

Charllotte and Sophena Kwon decide on the placement of textiles for the Masterworks exhibit

Sophena fine tunes the hanging of one of the textiles.

Fashion Show Start Time

2011-10-12T13:35:00.000-07:00

8 pm. Saturday October 22.

That's when the doors will open for the Maiwa Fashion Show WRAPTURE: UNSTITCHED and ENFOLDED. (sold out). Location: Net Loft, Granville Island

Also note that we will be using the entrance by Paper Ya as the hall from our usual entrance for lectures will be taken over by tech and changing rooms. Unlike our lectures, we will be clearing the Net Loft when it closes at 7pm in order to transform it into a spectacular space for the show.

See you there.

Michel Garcia at Maiwa

2011-10-08T10:36:00.000-07:00

Michel Garcia reviews three types of tannin.

Chemist, botanist and natural dye specialist Michel Garcia is back in Vancouver. He has just begun teaching the first of his two workshops at Maiwa East. The class opened with a review of fibre types and an introduction to the different types of tannins.

The opening moments Michel's class at the Maiwa East Dye Studio

The class opened the morning after Michel spoke to a sold-out crowd at his lecture: Why we Dye: Secrets from the Chromatic World. For many, Michel's lecture was an eye opener. His explanation of the role of tannins and colourants from a plant's perspective - illustrating how they enhance various survival mechanisms - gives a greater, more holistic understanding of the relationships of dye chemistry.

Michel answer questions from the floor at his lecture.

In 2009, Michel first spoke at the Maiwa Symposium, delivering a talk recounting the establishment of the garden of natural dye plants in Lauris, France. Michel's first lecture is available on our podcast page.

In the first part of 2011, the Maiwa Foundation brought Michel to India to lead a masterclass workshop for experienced, traditional dyers. The results of this week-long intensive will be on exhibit next week as the Masterworks Exhibit. Some tickets are still available.

Yarns and Lines - Alison Ellen visits Canada

2011-10-03T13:59:00.000-07:00

Allison Ellen delivered the third lecture of the symposium Friday night. Yarns and Lines: New Directions in Hand Knitting took the audience through the evolution of her own work and how she repeatedly questioned, broke, and adapted the basic assumptions of hand knitting to produce sculptural and innovative Pieces. The talk was well received by both expert knitters and those who have never held knitting needles.

The evening was introduced by Toby Smith who can be seen here presenting Allison with a gift at the conclusion of her talk. The next day Alison began teaching the first of her two sold-out workshops. She brought 23 of her remarkable works with her - a number sold right away at her talk but we still have some in the Maiwa Store for viewing or purchase.

Our next lecture will be given on October 6th by Michel Garcia. Why We Dye: Insights from the Chromatic World. This event is sold out.

The Weaver's House

2011-09-25T22:12:00.000-07:00

Last night was the opening of The Weaver's House - an exhibit of work that is at the heart of Mexico's traditional textile revival. Sheri Brautigam brought works from her collection to be shown alongside works from the Maiwa Collection. Music from the Rio Samaya Band had everyone in exactly the right place and as the evening progressed people couldn't help but dance.

Sophena Kwon, designed and hung the exhibition which closed on Sunday September 25. In addition to the works being shown there were a number of robozos, huipiles, and embroideries for sale. Works were from Oaxaca, Chiapas and the State of Mexico. The evening was opened by Charllotte Kwon. Sheri Brautigam introduced the textiles and gave the context and setting for both the work and the exhibition.

The next Maiwa Event is this Friday, September 30th. Alison Ellen will give a lecture: Yarns and Lines: New Directions in Hand Knitting. Some tickets are still available.

Living Textiles of Mexico

2011-09-23T08:47:00.000-07:00

Sheri Brautigam has just delivered the second lecture of the Maiwa Textile Symposium. Living Textiles of Mexico was a journey through Oaxaca and Chiapas visiting communities and textiles of indigenous Mexico. The lecture served to whet everyone's appetite for The Weaver's House: An Exhibition of Mexican Textiles which takes place this Saturday (September 24 - opening event at 7:30).

Left, a display of Arte de Mexico (bi-lingual publications) featuring Robozos and work of the Mazahua beside some of the machine-embroidered textiles from Zinacantan in Chiapas. Right, Maiwa Staff, Jen Larisey sets up one of the mannequin for the evening.

Left, a generous spread included some of the best empanadas we've ever tasted. Right, Maiwa staff, Loraie Taylor introduced Sheri with a story of how they met in Oaxaca. Some people wonder if they should take their laptop when they travel - Loraie took her sewing machine.

On deck for our next lecture is Alison Ellen with Yarns and Lines: New Directions in Hand Knitting. Some tickets are still available.