Jorbins.com: Gardening and Landscaping

(Article) - When Growing Snap Beans You Need To Decide Between The Bush And Pole Varieties First

Jorbins.com — Tue, 21 Apr 2009 14:51:29 GMT

Fresh green beans straight from your own garden, how yummy. But before you can enjoy the fruits of your labor you need to get them in your garden.

Snap beans can be grown quite easily and you can choose between bush or pole varieties. I find that I like the bush varieties better because I don't need to worry about putting up poles or a fence for them to climb on. If you do go this route make sure your fencing or poles are on the north side so as not to shade your crops.

I find that I do best if I plant bush beans 3 times, approximately two weeks apart. Then I have a continuous crop of fresh beans to either eat or put up for winter. I have to admit I sometime grow some pole beans as well because I like to let them dry out and use them for soups.

Both types of beans need to have care taken when harvesting. You will want to wait till your plant is dry to handle it when you carefully pick your beans. Use care when touching your plants if they are wet, it is easy to spread disease that way. That is the reason you should water beans in the morning so the sun can dry off the plant before it gets dark out.

Beetles and aphids are going to be your biggest pest to have to worry about. Watch your plants carefully and if you see any pick them off. If you get too many you will want to look into some commercial products to combat them so you don't lose your crop.

Another difference betweek the two is that you should pick bush beans before they are mature and pole beans as soon as they are mature. With both varieties you want to pick often and not leave any mature beans unpicked. This will ensure your plants continue to produce.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Vegetable Gardening | Vegetable Varieties | Beans

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(Article) - Tips For Growing Asparagus

Jorbins.com — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 13:48:34 GMT

Nothing tastes as good as fresh grown asparagus from your own garden, but to do it right you won't get to taste any till the second year after you have planted it.

When you plant your asparagus you will want to plant about twice as much as you think you will want in a year. Dig your trench away from other plants that you don't want shaded by the asparagus.

Plant in soil that is well drained and plan on adding compost to it to make sure it is full of nutrients.

The first year do not pick any of the asparagus, this will ensure you get a good root base for your plants. (Keep in mind this asparagus can produce for over 15 years so it is worth the wait.)

The second year resist temptation and just harvest 3 or 4 of your thickest clumps. In your third year and beyond harvest until about half your crop left is less than the thickness of a ball point pen.

Each spring you will get more tender asparagus if you mound a bit of compost enriched soil over the trench, about 1/2 inch is sufficient.

Many people ask about white asparagus, the trick to that is to keep it from the sun. When it starts sprouting up, gradually add light compost enriched soil over the top of it to block it out. Continue this until it is time to harvest, and then gradually remove the soil.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Vegetable Gardening | Vegetable Varieties | Asparagus

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(Article) - Good Ingredients To Add To Your Compost Pile

Jorbins.com — Thu, 05 Mar 2009 22:44:58 GMT

There will be a direct reflection from what you put into your compost pile to how well it will make your garden grow. You need to make sure you are keeping a good mix of both "browns" and "greens", in fact it is best if you layer them as much as possible.

Browns would be things rich in carbon and greens are things that are rich in nitrogen. You will need both of these as well as moisture and air in order for your compost pile to effectively break down.

Be sure and start out with your ground moistened and a layer of bulky items that will allow your pile to breathe. Small tree branches are a good starter layer. In between layers a bit of soil, and of course food products will decompose quicker and without attracting pests if they are covered with soil.

Good carbon sources would be things like:

Egg Shells, Cardboard, Coffee Grounds, Corn Cobs and Stalks, Leaves, Paper, Pine Needles, Wood Chips, Straw, Sawdust (from wood that has not been treated), Peanut Shells, Dried Flowers.

Good nitrogen sources would be thinks like:

Grass Clippings, Hay, Sod, Manure, Vegetable Peels, Melons, Tomatoes, Turnips, Apples, Bananas (even the peel), Bread, Onions, Lettuce, Celery, Carrots, Rice, Potatoes, Broccoli, Cabbage.

Things NOT to add to your compost would be:

Magazines, Cheese, Meat, Butter, Oils, Milk, Peanut Butter, Pressure-treated Wood, Lard, Lime, Diseased Plants, Dog/Cat Feces, Bones, Mayonnaise, Yogurt, Sour Cream, Charcoal, Fish.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Gardening Basics | General Gardening Tips

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(Article) - How To Build, Maintain, And Use A Compost Pile

Jorbins.com — Tue, 03 Mar 2009 23:11:25 GMT

There is a saying among many gardeners that you need to "Feed the soil, and let the soil feed the plants". That is very true, and the easiest way to accomplish this is with compost. And what could be better than having your own compost pile to enrich your garden with nutrients.

Every gardener knows that the optimum soil for plants has lots of organic matter in order to feed the plants grown in it. Good soil is also easier to dig (it will be crumbly and have a loose structure). It also both holds moisture yet allows it to drain properly.

So how do you get this type of soil, or maintain it if you already have it? You guessed it, by feeding the soil from your own compost pile.

The easiest way to get started composting is to first build a structure to hold your compost somewhere near or actually in your garden. One way to do that would be with wooden pallets. Use four pallets wired together to contain your compost, it makes it easier to add on to create more than one pile by adding three more pallets.

After you have your structure put together you can start making your compost. It takes awhile for the microherd (organism such as earthworms, etc) to break down the compost. So you need to keep that in mind in your planning. You may want to consider to separate piles. One to use and the other getting ready to use for next year.

In order for your compost pile to be effective it needs not only organic material, but moisture, and air. So it is best to start your pile off with a layer on the bottom that will help it to "breathe". Something like cornstalks.

Then you can add grass clippings, leaves, manure, coffee grounds, sawdust, and old vegetables. Don't add anything that has fat or dairy in it or your pile will smell and may attract pests. Your compost should smell earthy, if it doesn't you may have too much green organic matter and you should add some more brown organic matter such as grass clippings, soiled hay, leaves or sawdust.

You will want to keep your compost pile moist and use a pitchfork to turn it occasionally. If you maintain more than one pile then you will not need to turn it as often as you will have longer before you will need to use it in your garden.

When your compost has all broken down you can start to use it in your garden. Your hard work will be rewarded with rich soil that will be better able to sustain your plants.

**Another tip to help your soil is to sow it with a cover crop when your garden area is not in use. Something like red clover works well for this.

Happy composting.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Gardening Basics | General Gardening Tips

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(Article) - Pond Waterfalls

Jorbins.com — Mon, 26 Jan 2009 12:25:43 GMT

How to Make a Pond Waterfall

One of the most common mistakes people make when constructing a pond waterfall is not fitting the size of the pond to the dimensions of the garden waterfall. Bigger is not always better. If you are going to have goldfish or Koi fish in your pond the added aeration from the waterfall will be beneficial. Make sure your pond is large enough that they have calm water to swim in as well.

Placement of stones will create many different effects; your water feature can be all falls or no falls at all. When planning your garden waterfall remember to dig your stream and catch basin a little bigger than what you think you want since it will appear smaller once the stones and edging are added.

Use a wide rubber liner under your rock waterfall and if your liner does not have an underlayment be sure and add one to protect the liner from rocks and underground roots.

Waterfall Installation

Be sure and use black waterfall foam when you have placed your rocks and stones where you want them. This way water goes around and over the stones instead of underneath. The foam expands so take care not to use too much.

Waterfall Filters

Place your biological filter at the top of the waterfall so it filters your water before it cascades over your rocks.

Waterfall Pumps

When purchasing a waterfall pump be sure and ask questions and do your homework. Waterfall pumps come in all sizes and you want to make sure you purchase the correct size for your water pond. Roughly figure 300 gallons per hour is required for a 6-inch wide waterfall.

Waterfall Kits and Waterfall Units

If you want to purchase a waterfall kit there are three basic types of preformed waterfall units.

Plastic - The most inexpensive type of preformed waterfall as well as the most frequently used in new and smaller ponds.

Fiberglass - Easy to install and used mainly for medium sized ponds.

Pre-cast stone - If you have a large pond this can be used to make spectacular cascading falls and endless meandering streams.

Waterfall Landscaping

Water lilies like quiet waters and do not do very well around fountains and waterfalls because of the splashing and water flow. An alternative would be pond lilies which are comparable to water lilies but tolerate moving water and some shade. Another aquatic plant to consider would be the water hawthorn it has smaller foliage but a longer flowering season than the water lily. It also has beautiful vanilla scented blossoms.

Be sure and include aquatic plants at the top of your waterfall as well as around any streams you may be incorporating into it.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Specialty Gardens | Water Gardens And Ponds

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(Article) - Pond Fountains

Jorbins.com — Mon, 26 Jan 2009 12:24:19 GMT

Fountains can be used as a focal point for any garden, but are usually associated with a formal water garden because of the way they look and sound. But there are so many types available now you can find an outdoor fountain to fit the character of almost every garden pond.

You can choose from floating fountains, solar fountains, and of course ornamental fountains. Different fountain heads and fountain nozzles create a variety of fountain sprays and spray patterns as well.

Fountains made of polyresin are a good choice for pond owners. They are more affordable and lighter than carved stone fountains and will not crack like molded plastic fountains.

Check the fountain pump to see that it can pump at least five gallons per minute of water, any less than that and you may be disappointed in the water feature's visual effect.

Depending on the size of your water garden you may have to choose between fish and plants or a fountain. If your pond is large enough a fountain's aeration will help oxygenate the water which will be beneficial to Koi or goldfish.

If you are going for a simple water garden without fish or plants you can use chlorine bleach to keep the water crystal clear. Add 2 ounces of bleach for every 10 gallons of water each month.

Ultrasonic foggers, light kits, and colored fountain lights will add a finishing touch to your newly installed outdoor water fountain.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Specialty Gardens | Water Gardens And Ponds

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(Article) - Pond Liners and Pond Underlay

Jorbins.com — Mon, 26 Jan 2009 12:19:52 GMT

Pond Liners

The first thing you need to do before you start constructing your pond is too pick out a pond liner. You want to purchase the best liner you can afford. The better quality of pond liner you have the less likely you are to have problems concerning the liner.

It is also better to have too much liner than too little, be generous when figuring out what size of liner you will need!! When you are sizing your liner you will need to figure in a 2 foot overlap around the whole pond. This will assure you have enough liner to have an overlap and will give you a little wiggle room in case things shift a bit when filling your pond.

Too figure the actual size of pond liner you will need.

Length, take the length of your pond and add double the depth and 4 foot to it (the overlap).

Width, take the width of your pond and add double the depth and 4 foot to it (the overlap).

Be sure and take into consideration your climate and whether or not you want fish or not when deciding how deep you want your pond. If you are going to keep fish or even plants in it year round you may need to dig a little deeper.

Choosing a brand or type of liner.

Take your time look at your options and needs. A little homework in this part of your pond planning can save you a lot of time, money, and frustration later!! There is a large variety of liner types available from 45 mil EPDM, to polyethylene pond liners, to PVC pond liners.

Some brands to include in your research are Firestone PondGard EPDM, Butyl Rubber Liners, Royal Liners, GeoCHEM liners, and RTC PondGrade EPDM. Be sure NOT to use roofing EPDM, there are chemicals in it that can and will kill your fish and plants.

Pond Liner Underlay

Okay, you have just picked out the best liner you feel you can afford and now you want to assure yourself that it lasts as long as possible. To do that you need to put down an underlayment to place your liner on. This will make it more puncture resistant and it will also stabilize the liner and keep it from stretching too much. You can, and a lot of people do, use sand, old carpet, or newspaper for this. But these underlayments can settle, and a lot of pond underlay is cheaper than sand and has the added benefit that it will not slowly rot the liner.

Choosing a brand or type of underlay.

Again do your research and ask around. Find out what people are using and if they are having or have had any problems. Some brands to consider in your research would be Firestone, Geo-Pad, Blagdon, Aquashield, and Aquatex.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Specialty Gardens | Water Gardens And Ponds

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(Article) - Aquatic Plants for Your Garden Pond

Jorbins.com — Mon, 26 Jan 2009 12:12:47 GMT

Water Lilies

The water lily, by far, is the most popular aquatic plant used in water gardening projects. These deep-water plants have roots and stems in the soil below the water, while their foliage floats on the water.

There are both hardy water lilies and tropical water lilies. The hardy types have leaves with smooth edges and the tropical types come in a larger variety of colors and are more fragrant. Unlike the hardy water lily that blooms during the day some tropical water lilies bloom in the evening.

When choosing aquatic plants for your garden make sure that any water lilies you purchase are potted and not floating in water.

Here are a few water lily types you can consider for your water garden:

Barbara Dobbins
Colorado
Almost Black
Gladstone
Joanna Pring
Rosea Laydekeri
Itelvola

Floating plants

Floating aquatic plants provide essential shade in your water pond. Shade from floating plants reduces algae, especially single celled algae that produce "green pea soup" or "green water". They also allow submerged plants to continue growing and starve suspended algae.

Not only does this type of aquatic plant provide a place for pond life to hide but they are also excellent at preventing blanket weed.

Floating plants are easy to grow and fairly inexpensive, many water gardeners consider these aquatic plants as annuals instead of perennials because of this.

Some floating plants to consider in your water garden:

Fairy Moss
Water Hyacinth
Water Fern
Frogbit
Water Lettuce
Salvina
Water Chestnut

Submerged Plants / Oxygenating Plants

Submerged plants, also called oxygenating plants, are a vital part of your water pond. Besides the beautiful foliage that many can also can provide oxygen during the daylight hours and remove it at night. They will compete with algae by consuming nutrients from your pond as well.

Pond life will hide, feed, and reproduce among your submerged and oxygenating plants.

Some types to consider:

Water Violet
Water Crowfoot
Eel Grass
Water Buttercup
Foxtail
Willow Moss
Fanwort
Hornwort
Bladderwort

Bog Plants / Marginal Plants

Marginal plants, also referred to as bog plants or shallow water plants, provide beauty, height, and texture to your backyard pond. They can be used to disguise the edge of the pond and they can add longer periods of color to your water garden. Bog plants traditionally like continually moist soil but do not like to be submerged in water, while marginal plants vary where they do best, usually from between 2 and 12 inches of water. Vary the aquatic plant types you put into containers to add to the uniqueness and beauty of your garden pond.

There are many bog and marginal plants to be considered in your water garden. Here are a few:

Marsh Marigolds
Scrambling Brockline
Sweet Flag
Water Plantain
Cattails
Saggittaria
Hibiscus
Rushes
Reeds
Water Clover
Parrots Feather
Pickeral Reed
Lotus

Water Lotuses

The water lotus is a very popular bog / marginal plant. Remember most love hot weather and require at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. Water lotus come in a large variety of colors, sizes, and fragrances. The Asian Lotus as compared the American Native Lotus has gone through a lot of hybridization that gives such variety to this aquatic plant.

Wetland Gardens

If you are not going to introduce goldfish or Koi fish to your water garden you may consider constructing a wetland pond. You will attract many wild birds, butterflies, bees, dragonflies, tadpoles, and turtles. The wetland garden pond is a beautiful alternative to a fish pond if you choose to go this route.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Specialty Gardens | Water Gardens And Ponds

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(Article) - Barley Straw: Natural Algae Control Treatment

Jorbins.com — Mon, 26 Jan 2009 12:02:16 GMT

Barley straw is just one of the many treatments for controlling algae in your pond. It is natural and does not have any known toxic effects on aquatic plants, insect larvae, or fish.

When barley straw is added to your pond water it will begin the decomposition process. As it decomposes special chemicals are released. These chemicals have been found to reduce the amount of new algae growth and occurrences of algae blooms.

The downside to barley straw is the fact that the chemicals it produces is virtually ineffective for reducing EXISTING algae. This is why barley straw is used as a PREVENTIVE algae control treatment.

To successfully treat your garden pond it will take about one bundle of barley straw for every 1000 gallons of water.

To apply the barley straw spread the bales apart and put them in onion sacks or Christmas tree netting. Anchor them so they float in the upper 3 feet of your water pond where they can get sufficient sunlight.

Since barley straw will consume oxygen in your pond water. It is best to place them near or directly under waterfalls or fountains where there is sufficient water movement to keep oxygen around the barley straw. This will also help distribute the chemicals produced as decomposition occurs.

Barley straw should help control algae for 4 to 6 months once it is producing sufficient amount of chemicals. However, it will depend on water temperature how long it will take to reach this amount. Water temperature below 50 degrees will take about 2 months and if the water is over 70 degrees it should not take longer than 2 weeks.

Keep in mind that you will need to maintain a continuous treatment when using barley straw. Usually you will need to replace used bales after about 5-6 months (or as directed by manufacturer).

If you do not want the mess and maintenance of using barley straw bales an alternative can be Savio Natural Barley Extract. This extract is a liquid that is added to your pond water. It is cost effective, lasts longer, requires less maintenance, and is plant and fish safe.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Specialty Gardens | Water Gardens And Ponds

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(Article) - Algae Control: How To Control Algae In Your Pond and Water Garden

Jorbins.com — Mon, 26 Jan 2009 12:00:14 GMT

About Pond Algae

Learning about algae and the various algae control treatments is necessary when maintaining a water garden or Koi pond. If algae control treatments are not used, an algae bloom can turn your once beautiful pond into a living nightmare. Your pond may end up having murky green water, blankets of green muck on the water surface, or strings of algae in your streams and waterfalls.

Algae can be found in virtually any backyard garden pond. It can either be beneficial or harmful depending on the type and the excessiveness of the algae.

One of the benefits of algae is that it helps remove excess nutrients that build up in your pond water over time. This excess of nutrients can be unhealthy for plants, fish, and other aquatic life.

The downfall of algae is when control is not being used. What can happen in an uncontrolled pond is an excessive and rapid growth of algae called an algae bloom. These blooms can harm aquatic life by competing for resources as well as destroy the water quality and beauty of a backyard pond. Certain varieties of pond algae, such as blue-green algae, can even be toxic to animals and humans.

The purpose of controlling algae is not to eliminate all algae but to maintain a beneficial balance of "good" algae so that it works for your pond rather than against your pond. There are various algae control treatments and methods you can use to accomplish this. Some control methods include:

Barley straw
UV sterilizers
Algaecides
Dyes
Bacterial and enzyme treatments
Skimmers and biological filters
Natural methods - Plants and algae eaters

Before we discuss these treatments and methods you need to know a little more about the types of algae and the conditions for algae growth. By knowing these you stand a better chance at choosing the best treatment for controlling algae growth and blooms in your pond.

Types of Pond Algae

There are many varieties of algae that you may find in your pond. The most common types of pond algae are filamentous and planktonic.

Planktonic Algae

Green algae - green water - blue-green algae - green pea soup

Tiny microscopic single celled algae suspended a few feet below the surface of the water where sunlight is still available for photosynthesis. Garden ponds will typically have murky green water or blue-green water if this type of algae is present.

Filamentous Algae

String algae - hair algae - blanket algae

Typically referred to as pond scum, pond moss, string algae, and blanket algae. This filamentous algae bond with other filamentous algae creating strings and lime-green mats floating on the surface of a pond. You can also find it growing in pond waterfalls, shallow streams, and attached to rocks and/or the sides of ponds where sunlight is present.

Conditions For Algae Growth and Blooms

Water Nutrients

Most algae obtain nutrients from the actual pond water not "pond soil". Excessive levels of algae occur when nutrients, especially phosphorus and nitrogen, are at high levels in your pond. These nutrients are typically cause by decomposing materials left in the pond. Dead algae, plants, leaves, and also pond sludge are a few examples of these decomposing materials. Excessive nutrients can also be produced by excessive fish waste (usually caused by overstocking of fish) and uneaten fish food. Beneficial bacteria break down the ammonia in fish waste and as a byproduct phosphorus and nitrates are produced.

Sunlight

For most plant life sunlight is required for photosynthesis. Most algae must stay toward the surface of the pond, waterfalls, shallows, and streams where it can get sufficient sunlight.

Water Temperature

Usually warmer water temperatures tend to support algae growth. Many times it is hard to control the temperature of the water because it naturally fluctuates day to day and between seasons. If you have fish and aquatic plants you will have to be able maintain a certain water temperature zone. The sad news is the water temperature that is needed to support most other aquatic life usually will be in "the zone" for algae.

The foundation of algae control is to reduce the amount of algae in your garden pond by killing it or by removing one or more conditions that promote algae growth. By removing any one of the conditions you effectively reduce the amount of current pond algae, algae blooms, and also PREVENT new algae growth.

How to Control Algae in Your Pond: Treatments and Methods

Below are the most common treatments and methods for controlling algae. Keep in mind that each treatment or method can have upsides and downsides and may not work very well to control all types of algae. Worse yet, some may not work well with Koi fish, plants, or other aquatic life.

Barley Straw

Barley straw is an excellent way to inhibit the growth of algae. Barley straw is cost effective, easy to use, and does not have any known toxic effects on aquatic plants or fish. More about barley straw.

Ultraviolet Sterilizers

Ultraviolet sterilizers are very important for controlling algae and keeping your pond balanced especially if you have fish in your pond. UV sterilizers are sometimes referred to as clarifiers and are an important water treatment for killing free-floating bacteria, suspended algae (planktonic algae and green water), fungi, mold spores, viruses, and other parasites. The downside to UV sterilizers is that the algae must pass in front of the light so any attached algae will not be killed.

It is EXTREMELY important to use the right size of ultraviolet sterilizer for your pond size and water flow. Also keep in mind that all UV sterilizers are not created equal and some water UV clarifiers will only keep the water clear for the top foot or so. You should also wait a month or two before adding an ultraviolet sterilizer to a new pond.

Skimmers and Biological Filters

Skimmers - If your pond is not too large, a skimmer can help trap and filter debris from your pond water. Such debris when left in your pond will start to decompose which creates nutrients for pond algae. Although skimmers aren't the best method for controlling algae, they can provide a tiny bit of assistance. Skimmers must also be cleaned out regularly so water can pass through.

Biological filters - If you maintain a Koi pond you will probably have a biological filter. Most biological filters do nothing for controlling algae. These filters contain beneficial bacteria that break down toxic ammonia from fish waste. The reason we mention these filters is that they produce nitrates (aquatic plant food and algae food) during the process of breaking down ammonia. So you must remove the nitrates by partial water changes or by having enough plant life to consume the nitrates.

Chemical Treatments (algaecides) and Water Treatments

Algaecides - It is recommended that you avoid chemical treatments such as algaecides. Just know that algaecides may have adverse effects and may harm plants, fish, and other aquatic life. Many of them can be harmful to the environment as well. Algaecides work temporarily and when algaecides "wear off" another algae bloom (usually worse) is sure to happen.

Dyes - Dyes are water treatments that shade the water. The shading cuts off vital sunlight algae must have for photosynthesis.

Bacterial and Enzyme Water Treatments - These are probably the most popular type of water treatments and water clarifiers available. There are also a wide variety of bacterial and enzyme treatments that can control combinations of water pH, sludge, and to remove ammonia and excess nitrates. Many control algae very well and are safe for fish, aquatic plants, and the also the environment. You can also find treatments, such as GreenEx, that specifically help control filamentous algae (string algae).

Natural Controls

Plants - Adding plants to your pond is a great natural way to help control algae. Aquatic plants can control algae by consuming nutrients needed for algae growth. They can also help shade the water therefore removing the required sunlight algae need for photosynthesis. Overhanging "dry land" plants can also help to shade the water. Be sure to keep any dead foliage out of your pond as decomposing material can add nutrients to the water. 45%-70% shading is recommended if you are trying to control algae by shade alone.

Some aquatic plants to look into are the water lily, water lettuce, water hyacinth, snowflake, yellow flag iris, cattails, and duckweed. Be careful with the duckweed since it could take over your pond if you are not careful.

Algae Eating Fish - It may not hurt to have one of these guys running around in your pond. They help "clean" your pond simply by eating the algae growing on the bottom and sides of the pond. Tadpoles and snails are also help if you want an alternative.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Specialty Gardens | Water Gardens And Ponds

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(Article) - Pond Care, Maintenance, and Winterizing

Jorbins.com — Mon, 26 Jan 2009 11:54:36 GMT

In order to keep your garden pond healthy you need to clean and maintain it continuously. The equipment you use to maintain your pond depends on your pond's size, your climate, your aquatic plant types, and the amount of gold fish or Koi it contains.

Supply List

Below is a list of some of the most popular equipment and pond supplies used to maintain a healthy garden pond. Keep in mind that some of the items are optional and will depend on the aquatic life your pond supports as well as environmental conditions:

Pond pumps - waterfall pumps -fountain pumps
Pond filters - biological filters
Fountains
Waterfalls
De-icers
Heaters
Skimmers
Ultra Violet Sterilizers
Biological Clarifiers
Water Treatments
Thermometer
Pond Vacuum
Aerators
Pond liners
Dechlorinators
Barley Straw
Pond Dye

There are also things you will do each season to assure yourself a healthy water garden.

Spring Maintenance

Do a partial water change (be sure and use a dechlorinator if your tap water contains chlorine).
Add barley straw.
Add pond salt if you have fish. You do this to make sure your fish have a healthy coat of slime so they can fight of parasites and bacterial infections.
Rearrange any aquatic plants back on pond shelves.
Divide and replant plants.
Get your U.V. sterilizer going.
Fertilize your water lilies.
Clean out leaves. dead plants, and debris.
Finalize any improvement plans or additions to your backyard pond.
Feed fish small amounts in the morning (what based fish food) when the water gets to 50 degrees.
Add a general parasite treatment for fish but avoid a bacterial treatment unless you see problems with your fish.
Add artificial cover (shade) or more floating plants for fish if your weather is consisting of bright sunshiny days and your plants aren't providing enough cover yet.
Green water is common and an algae bloom is normal in the spring for a fish pond. The algae bloom will help to protect the fish until plants begin to grow and take over more of the algae.

Summer Maintenance

Make planned improvements, add fountains, waterfalls, marginal plants, and be sure and check your water flow.
Run aerators, water fountains, and waterfalls at maximum levels, especially after the sun goes down to keep oxygen levels high in your pond. This is especially important if fish are living in your pond.
Control algae growth and beneficial bacteria.
Feed fish several small amounts of high protein food per day rather than one large feeding, remove any uneaten food immediately, floating fish food works best for this.
Small frequent water changes may help to increase oxygen levels (again use a dechlorinator is your tap water contains chlorine).
Add fertilizer tablets to ensure healthy plants, watch for deformed or discolored leaves and lack of flower blooms.

Fall Maintenance

Clean up leaves so they don't build up on the bottom of your pond and cause problems. If you get to much debris and sludge you may have to completely drain your pond. Too much decaying vegetation will cause major algae as well as lower oxygen levels.
Prune, thin, and reshape any plants as needed.
If water is above 60 degrees feed your plants some extra nutrients.
Before it gets to cold or freezes bring indoors any plants that do not stay in the pond year around. The same with any goldfish or Koi.
Reposition any plants that may need to be moved to deeper water.

Winter Maintenance / Winterizing

Consider adding mesh or netting over your pond to keep out the debris.
If water temperature gets below 40 degrees lift your pumps and aerators (which need to run year round if this is your winter climate) at least 12 inches from the bottom of your pond.
Test your water for phosphate levers as well as oxygen levers.
Cleaning the bottom of your pond, pruning plants, skimming, vacuuming, and netting now if you have not already done so will make your pond healthier and ready to go in the spring.
Maintain any equipment and check for problems. Clean skimmers, filters, and pumps. Replace or clean your media.
Do partial water changes up to 1/2 of the ponds water. If still murky do another in a few days. Again use a dechlorinator if you have chlorine in your tap water.
As water temperatures drop below 70 degrees slow down on the amount your feeding your fish. Below 60 degrees feed your fish only wheat germ based foods and do this less frequently. Below 50 degrees stop feeding your fish for the winter.
Install a de-icer to ensure your pond does not freeze over and is still getting oxygen if your climate requires it.
If your pond freezes over in the winter but you have pond lighting underneath the ice (which is awesome), make sure it is all working properly before the pond freezes!

And for all seasons; enjoy the serenity, beauty, and peacefulness your water garden brings to your backyard landscaping.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Specialty Gardens | Water Gardens And Ponds

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(Article) - Time to Clean that Deck the Easy Way

Jorbins.com — Tue, 14 Oct 2008 10:18:41 GMT

Not sure why we often put off or dread certain maintenance projects but getting the deck ready for winter should not be one of them.

We have a real easy way to do it at our house and if the weather is warm enough the kids have a good time helping.

First off before you can put on the waterproofing you need to get the deck clean. Remove everything off the deck, sweep it off good and then get out the hose. This is when we turn the kids loose.

The kids spray off the worst of it, have a good time, and then let us be while we finish it off. We let them also use the broom to scrub it but not with any cleaner because of the harsh chemicals.

If you maintain your deck each year and clean up any spills as they happen this shouldn't be too difficult. We take a regular whisk (straw) broom dip it in our cleaning solution and scrub the deck. A firm back and forth action cleans the deck up real nice. Rarely do we need to get down on hands and knees to get an area of the deck clean.

Then hose it all off, let it dry, and get out a cheap kitchen mop. Dip it into your waterproofing and mop the deck.

As soon as everything is dry we load the deck back up with the furniture and grill that stay out year long and the project is complete.

Quick tip, before you start your project you will want to see what the weather is going to be like for the next 48 hours. Also read the directions carefully on your water sealer to make sure you know how long it has to be before it can get wet again.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Patios, Decks, and Fences | Decks

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(Article) - Quick Idea for a Bird Feeder that the Whole Family Can Make

Jorbins.com — Tue, 14 Oct 2008 10:01:12 GMT

My family enjoys watching the different birds that appear in our backyards all year round. We put out feeders, water, etc to keep them in our yards. My daughter even looks up what kind of birds she is seeing in a bird book.

We also have kids that when it gets cold and rainy out don't like to be cooped up indoors so here is a project that we have done that takes very little preparation and the birds benefit.

What you need for materials is pipe cleaners and some kind of cereal shaped like Cheerios. That's it.

Have the kids string the cereal onto the pipe cleaners and then twist them off to make a circle. They can then hang them on the branches for the birds to eat.

If you have really small children you can put a twist in the end of a pipe cleaner to make it easier for them to string on the cereal. The kids can even snack on it while they are "creating".

Then since a little fresh air doesn't hurt anyone, bundle them up and let them go hang their feeders for the birds and wildlife to munch on. Then they can watch from the window to see what kinds of birds like to eat the cereal.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Backyard Birds | General Advice

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(Article) - How to Create a Bird-Friendly Environment

Jorbins.com — Wed, 08 Aug 2007 00:00:12 GMT

(ARA) - Bird watching continues to be a favorite American pastime enjoyed by young and old alike. What better way to relax and spend time together as a family or to teach children about nature than by sitting back and enjoying all the beautiful birds that might visit your yard?

To help maximize your viewing pleasure and ensure a steady flow of colorful songbirds, Lyric, a leading manufacturer of premium wild bird food, offers the following tips:

Most important is feeding consistency. The majority of serious bird watchers feed and continue to care for birds year-round, not just during the cold winter months when food sources are the scarcest. By establishing a regular food source, birds are more likely to get into the habit of visiting your yard for a consistent food supply rather than having to find alternative locations. Keep in mind, too, that even in the warmer months when natural food supplies are more abundant, birds are busy building nests and caring for their young, which means they could benefit from a convenient, nearby food source. The other reason to feed in the spring and summer months is to see birds you would not normally see. Birds migrating through are very grateful for a bite to eat along the way.

The second most important tip for consistently attracting wild birds to your yard is to create an environment that is inviting to them. This includes not just a bird feeder, but also shelter and a safe water source for drinking and bathing.

Keep in mind that birds have many natural predators. To make them feel more secure in your yard and more likely to stay, try to hang feeding stations near trees or bushes where birds can hide, if necessary. Evergreens are particularly appealing to birds because they provide shelter, protection from the weather, and an ideal nesting site. If you're adding trees or shrubs to your yard, locate them on the west or north ends of the property to help block the wind. Bird baths should also be placed near a tree or other structure that can potentially block colder north winds. And, of course, be sure to keep your cat indoors since more birds are killed each year by cats than from any other cause.

Remember that the key to attracting birds to your yard and motivating them to return again and again is no different than making company feel comfortable in your own home. Make their stay pleasant and enjoyable, and they are more likely to want to visit again.

Key to creating an inviting habitat is providing the right food. Lyric, like a number of other bird food manufacturers, markets a full line of products, including mixes developed to attract specific types of birds, such as chickadees. But for more universal appeal, you should consider a mix that offers a wide variety, such as Lyric Delite, which is scientifically designed to attract the birds you want and keep them coming. Made of premium ingredients, Lyric Delite is totally filler-free and shell-free, which means it's 100 percent edible. It contains all those good things most desirable to wild birds, including sunflower kernels, peanuts, mixed nuts and pumpkin seeds. These ingredients have proven particularly effective in helping to attract chickadees, woodpeckers, nuthatches and finches, among others.

Experts agree that birds innately know if seed is good or bad. If it's questionable in quality or condition, they will kick it aside, creating a mess beneath the feeder. But since Lyric Delite features only the highest quality ingredients, you're less likely to find a large mess beneath your feeder. Plus, there are no shells to fall to the ground. Shells are not only messy by themselves, but given the right weather conditions, they will eventually germinate into weeds and create additional problems. By eliminating shells in your feed mix, you will lessen your maintenance now and down the road. From an economic standpoint, you are also offering more bird dinners per pound than mixes that contain fillers and shells.

Another tip for making birds feel at home in your yard is to provide a clean environment. There are a number of fatal diseases that can originate from unclean food sources. Birds who feed on the ground beneath feeders are especially at risk. The best thing is to clean your feeders and the areas underneath them regularly -- at least once a season, although once a month is ideal. Rubber gloves should always be used when handling and cleaning dirty feeders.

Tube feeders can be soaked in a bucket of hot water and a 10 percent bleach solution, and then brushed clean and dried before refilling. Wooden feeders should be scrubbed with a soap and water mixture, then allowed to dry for at least half a day, or until they are completely free of any residual moisture, which will promptly spoil any new food added to them.

Nectar feeders require even more frequent maintenance -- daily in most cases -- because sugar solutions ferment quickly in hot weather. Scrub these feeders thoroughly with a bottle brush before refilling with a four parts boiled water to one part white, granulated sugar solution or a commercially prepared nectar.

Another tip for keeping food in prime, unspoiled condition is to store it in a sealed container in a dry area. This is especially important for mixes that contain sunflower seeds, because insect eggs are often deposited on the sunflower when it's growing in the field and can hatch months later.

Water in bird baths should also be changed daily to prevent algae growth and hatching of mosquito larvae. As a further enticement, consider adding a dripper or mister, which will create movement on the water's surface and attract more interest.

Another addition to consider is a dust bath. The dusting process seems to soak up excess oil and helps keep birds' feathers in top condition. Make a dust bath with equal parts dry sand and topsoil. Spread this combination in a small, flat area where grass is not growing and rake it from time to time.

Bird feeding and watching can be fun and rewarding. More importantly, you're doing the birds a favor. Although some people believe that feeding birds will only make them dependent on an artificial food source, studies show that wild birds only get a small percentage of their total food intake from feeders -- usually no more than 25 percent. They tend not to become dependent on any one food source. Specific field studies done with Black-capped Chickadees actually showed that those birds with access to feeders were twice as likely to survive during the months when natural food sources were scarcest.

So why not join the millions of people who are already enjoying the benefits of bird feeding? There has never been a better time or easier way. Because beginning in the spring of 2004, for the first time, Lyric Premium Bird Food, as well as Lyric bird feeders, are now available online. For more bird feeding tips, to locate a retailer near you, or to place your order for the mix that's proven to attract more wild birds than any other, visit www.lyricbirdfood.com.

Courtesy of ARA Content

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Backyard Birds | General Advice

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(Article) - Maintaining and Winterizing Your Lawn Mower

Jorbins.com — Wed, 01 Aug 2007 01:00:00 GMT

A lawn mower is an expensive piece of gardening equipment that people fail to perform regular maintenance on and winterize properly. Usually this lack of care results in major problems in the future. Either they end up having to spend hard-earned money on fixing their lawn mowers or replacing them altogether.

This is a guide that will help you with maintenance necessary to keep your lawn mower running smoothly year in and year out.

The Best Time for Lawn Mower Maintenance

Usually the best time to perform major maintenance is after your last mowing for the season. The reason being is that you will want to clean your mower before it is put away for the winter. If the it is not cleaned the buildup can rust the deck and other parts. But, in order to clean the mower deck the lawn mower needs to be put on its side. Most manufactures recommend that fuel and oil be drained before you do so because fuel and oil can drain into filters, valves, the muffler, carburetor, etc. So if you are going to go through the process of cleaning you may as well do complete maintenance while you are at it.

If you didn't perform these steps last fall you shouldn't wait until next fall. Perform the steps now so that your mower is fit to mow the rest of the season. When the mowing season ends just follow these steps again before storing the mower for the winter.

IMPORTANT! Before You Begin

Be sure that any knobs, keys, and levers are in the off position so that the mower cannot start. Detach the spark plug wire from the spark plug and tape it or attach it so that it cannot contact the plug in any way. This will prevent the mower from accidentally start.

Gasoline Maintenance

Draining the gasoline for winter storage is a debatable subject. For the most part it is recommended to do so but this can cause gaskets, seals, and rings to dry and crack. A way around this is to leave the fuel in the mower. BUT, doing this also has its problems. Fuel degrades after about 2 months. This degrading fuel produces gummy and varnish-like residuals that can gunk up your fuel lines, filter, carburetor, and cylinders.

There is a product that enables you to store equipment for a period of time without having to drain the fuel. It is called a fuel stabilizer. STA-BILÂ® is the most popular. A fuel stabilizer keeps gasoline from degrading over time. This means that fuel can be left in the lawn mower over the winter without the fuel degrading.

For now just drain the gasoline from the engine to perform maintenance. All you should have to do is detach the fuel line and drain the gasoline from the tank. Once the gasoline is drained out it would be wise to run a bit of fresh gasoline through to help clean out any sediment left in the tank and line. Reattach the fuel line when finished.

Oil Maintenance

The next thing you should do is drain the oil from the lawn mower. To do so there is a drain plug that can be easily unscrewed. Be sure that you have something to catch the oil that is portable so that you can dispose of the old oil in an environmentally friendly way.

After the oil is completely drained use a small amount of new oil and run it through to remove some of the excess sediment. Never run water through! Once this step is complete just replace the oil drain plug and wipe any excess oil that may have spilled or dripped.

Check the Mower Blade

After the lawn mower gas and oil have been completely drained you can then tip the mower onto its side. Double check to see if the spark plug wire is detached and not touching! It is better to be safe than sorry.

The first thing you will want to do is remove the lawn mower blade. Once removed the blade should be scrubbed clean with a wire brush or a cleaning pad. Be careful not to cut yourself.

After the blade is clean, check it for weak points, cracks, bends, nicks, and dullness. Most blades can get you through at least 2 years worth of mowing. Typically you will want to sharpen it one year and then replace it completely the next year.

If the blade looks heavily damaged and has large nicks in it should just be replaced.

If the blade looks good just a little dull you should take the time to sharpen it. That is if you don't want to replace it just yet. A file or a grinding stone will do the job. Be sure that the lawn mower blade is balanced after it is sharpened. You can purchase a blade balance at a local hardware store and it is inexpensive. When the blade is placed on the balance it will tip to one side or be remain level. If the blade tips to one side you should remove some steel from that side on the back of the mower blade not the cutting edge. Keep doing this a little bit at a time until the blade remains level on the balance.

Do not put the lawn mower blade back on until you complete the next step.

Clean the Mower Deck

Now you are ready to clean the mower deck. If the caked on lawn clippings are not removed it can promote rusting of the mower deck. With the blade out of the way it should be very simple to clean off.

A cleaning pad, a hard bristle brush (not wire because it may strip the paint), and a bucket of soapy water is all that is needed. A spray hose can be used but do not spray down the engine or let the water pool around the engine. Try not to use a putty knife or screwdriver to scrape caked on lawn clippings. This may scratch the paint. You may want to use a putty knife fore larger chunks but be careful.

After the mower deck is cleaned inspect for rust as well as nicks and scratches in the undercoating. Take a steel wool page and gently remove the rust. Try not to remove much undercoating around the rust spots. Once rust is removed you will want to paint any bare metal to prevent any more rusting.

When you are finished and the mower deck has dried you can then put the blade back on. Check again to make sure the spark plug wire is not attached or touching the spark plug. Return the lawn more back its wheels.

Spray down the bag and lay it in a position out in the sun so that it may dry quickly.

Clean Engine And Lubricate Moving Parts

You should take a damp cloth or sponge and clean the engine. Do not use a spray hose as that may force water deep into parts causing rust. Also, it may force water into fuel and oil tanks, hoses, carburetor, muffler, etc.

NOTE: Some of the parts may be hot if you recently used the mower. Allow for it to cool before cleaning.

Wipe down the housing, the head, hoses, and mechanical parts. As you clean keep a sharp eye on the condition of parts. If you find any parts that may be worn, damaged ,or leaking you should replace those parts immediately. Make sure that parts, screws, bolts that need to be tight and secure are tight and secure.

Lubricate all parts according to manufacturer recommendations. Each lawn mower is different and may have special parts that need to maintained and lubricated. There may also be moving parts that may not be recommended for lubrication.

Check Filters and Belts

Check any filters and belts your mower may have. Replace any according to manufacturer recommendations.

Spark Plug

Wipe or blow out any debris around the spark plug before removing. Once the area around is free of debris, remove the spark plug from your lawn mower completely. Check for any cracking, corrosion, and heavy wear and tear. Since spark plugs are relatively inexpensive it may be better to replace it than clean it. If you do replace the spark plug be sure to gap the electrode to the specification of your engine manufacturer. Return the plug to mower and tighten it to the proper torque according the engine manufacturer. Be sure that you use an anti-seize compound for easy removal later.

If you do decide to clean your lawn mower's spark plug, you can do so by using a contact cleaner. Do not use water. Remove any dark or discolored buildup on the tip where the plug wire connects to the plug. This ensures a proper conductive connection. Also remove any dark or discolored buildup on the other end of the spark plug (the electrode). After cleaning you should gap the electrode to the engine specification and return to the lawn mower engine using an anti-seize compound. Tighten the plug to the proper torque specified to the engine manufacturer.

Spark Plug Wire

First check for any cracks, splits, and wear in you plug wire. Replace it immediately if you do find damage.

The spark plug wire on your lawn mower should fit tight to the spark plug. A wire that is not tight will vibrate causing a bad connection to your spark plug. Even worse it may come off completely. Most loose connections can be fixed simply by applying a little squeeze to the end. Just be sure not to misshape the connector.

Complete your Lawn Mower Maintenance

After completing all of the maintenance steps you can put new oil in your lawn mower as well as gasoline treated with a fuel stabilizer.

When everything is dry you will want to run the mower for 5 minutes or so to circulate the treated gas and new oil.

Now you can store the mower for the winter without worries. When next spring comes the mower will be set to go!

REMEMBER: You can always perform these steps mid summer especially if the mower is operated during strenuous conditions.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Lawn Care and Maintenance | Lawn Equipment

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(Article) - How To Prevent Damping Off

Jorbins.com — Fri, 22 Jun 2007 00:00:00 GMT

Damping off is the single term used to describe underground, soil line, or crown rots of seedlings due to unknown causes. The term actually covers several soil borne diseases of plants and seed borne fungi. The fungi which cause root rot are species of Phyium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia and Fusarium.

There are two types of damping off: pre-emergence and post- emergence. In pre-emergence damping-off, seeds may rot and seedlings may decay before they emerge. In post-emergence damping off the seedlings emerge then may pale, curl, wilt, and collapse from a rot at the soil line and below. The base of the stem is generally water-soaked at first then turns gray to brown or black then rots.

Vegetable seedlings often do not grow well under humid conditions, particularly if the soil is cold and wet. Damping off fungi flourish in moist, unhygienic conditions. The disease often starts at one end of a seed tray, and quickly spreads to the other end. A fluffy fungal growth may also appear on the soil surface as well as on the dead seedlings.

When preparing to plant be sure that flats, tools, plant containers, and benches are clean. Damping off pathogens can live in these containers. The easiest way to disinfect them is to dip them in a bleach solution for 10 seconds. Use 1 part bleach to 4 parts water. Or use 70 percent rubbing alcohol.

Plant in a light, well drained fertile seedbed. Preferably use sterile soils that have been pasteurized with heat before planting. Maintain a soil pH at the low end of the average scale. A soil of 6.4 pH is less susceptible to root rot than a pH of 7.5. As plants are watered the pH gradually increases. Test often and continue to maintain a lower pH while the plants are still germinating. If necessary use one tablespoon of vinegar to 1 gallon of water to lower a rising pH level.

Plant seeds no deeper than 4 times their own thickness. Keep the seedbed soil on the dry side after planting and allow plenty of bright light but not direct sunlight.

Use plant containers with drainage holes, water from the bottom only, and avoid excess watering. Do not allow pots to stand in water as excess water cannot drain and the roots will be starved for oxygen which will stop all growth of seedlings. Never water late in the day.

Avoid overcrowding and overfeeding of plants. Do not overfertilize, especially with nitrogen.

For additional organic tips from the experts on damping off:

http://www.apluswriting.net/dampingoff/dampingoff.htm

About the Author:

Marilyn Pokorney - Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading.

Website: http://www.apluswriting.net

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Vegetable Gardening | General Advice

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(Article) - The Prickly Pear Cactus

Jorbins.com — Sun, 20 May 2007 00:00:00 GMT

When you are planning your cactus garden you will want to consider adding some Prickly Pear cacti to it.

The prickly pear cacti like sunny well drained areas. If the soil they are planted in has excellent drainage they can tolerate quite a bit of water as well. Be sure and make sure it gets some protection from cold winter winds for best results.

The flowers that proceed the ripened fruit are very beautiful you will often see brilliant tones of yellows, oranges, pinks, and reds. The fruit will start forming as the blooms fade.

This cactus has large flat oval pads and the fruit that is both edible and beautiful will often be red, yellow, or purple.

You will hear people say they think it tastes like kiwi, strawberry, watermelon, and other various tastes. This usually depends on the variety of prickly pear that has been planted.

When it comes time to pick the fruit you may want to use kitchen tongs. Twist the fruit rather than pull it.

People often make jelly from this cacti because of the great flavor. A few tips on this include removing blossoms and fine thorns before cutting it into pieces to boil. This makes it easier when it comes to mashing and straining it.

A general rule of thumb would be 2 cups of prickly pear juice, 2 1/2 cups of sugar, 1 tsp of lemon juice (fresh is best), and one package of powdered pectin.

We like this cactus for a lot of reasons but probably the beauty of the blossoms and fruit are the biggest reason why we like to see them in our cactus garden.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Specialty Gardens | Cactus

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(Article) - Privacy Fences - What you should know!

Jorbins.com — Sun, 15 Apr 2007 00:00:00 GMT

Whether you build your own or have one installed, privacy fences can add value, quality, and curb appeal to your home.

If you're in the market for a privacy fence there are different types, styles, and materials to choose from. What you do choose is totally up to you. This article will help you to gain a better understanding of the various aspects of fences as well as pros and cons of the most common materials.

Requirements For Fences

Before you add a privacy fence to your home you need to look at your local zoning ordinances, building codes, and other restrictions. You must also seek proper permissions and permits where required. In some areas you may find that there are restrictions on fence type, height, material, offset, footings, etc. So be sure that the fence you want conforms to these requirement and restrictions as the ramifications may be severe.

Types of Privacy Fences

One of the first thing that needs to be determined is the type of privacy fence you want. The type of fence is determined not by material or style but more about function. There are two main categories of privacy fences based on function:

Total private
Semi-private

The one you choose will be based on how much privacy is needed as well as budget.

Total private

These fences are built/fabricated for total privacy. Usually they are about 5'-6' high and contain no gap in between pickets preventing onlookers from seeing what is beyond the fence. A tongue and groove system seems be the best choice to keep a tight connection between pickets. Many times these privacy fences will be more expensive due to the extra material needed for the fence.

Semi-private

When total privacy isn't much of a concern this is a good choice. These fences are also about 5'-6' high but will have gaps in between pickets or have alternating pickets. Onlookers may get slight to heavy view beyond the fence depending on how wide the gaps are. The airflow tends to be greater than that of total-private fences. You will usually find that semi-private fences are less expensive to build.

Fence Styles

There are many different styles of privacy fences to choose from. What is even better is that many of the same styles can be achieved with both wood and vinyl.

Below is a list of common style features that are typicall used for privacy fences:

Picket width - You will find styles that have different widths of pickets. Wider pickets can add the appearance of weight to your privacy fence. They can also make your yard and landscaping appear smaller. Smaller pickets can make the fence appear "busier" yet can make your yard appear bigger. Cost may vary depending on materials, installation, and other factors.

Picket angle - Pickets do not have to be straight up and down. The can run at an angle or even horizontal. The most common choice is straight up and down and will pretty much fit all home styles.

Alternating pickets - Usually used on semi-private fences. Rather than fencing both sides, an alternating method is used to cut down on costs. Although there may be some gaps and airflow the privacy maintained is quite good due to a bit of overlap between the pickets.

Picket length - Pickets do not have to have the same length. You could alternate lengths or you can go with what is called a concave or convex style. With a concave style the top of the fence dips down in an arch between each post. A convex is just the opposite. It bows upward.

Picket tips/caps - These are the tops on each picket. They can be styled many different ways from basic points to intricate designs.

Post tips/caps - These are the tips on the top of each large post. Just like pickets they can be styled in many different ways to add a finer touch to your fence.

Lattice header/accent - This is an accent adds a bit of charm and beauty to a privacy fence. With a lattice accent the pickets are stopped about a foot from the total height of the fence. On a 6' fence the pickets would stop about 5'. Right above this stopping point a lattice header is applied. The lattice can be angled or square depending on your taste and the style you desire. When applied to a privacy fence you should note that adding a lattice header could reduce privacy a bit. These headers do increase airflow to the yard.

Picket header/accent - Just like the lattice accent, this accent uses mini pickets in between accent rails.

With these styles it is important to note that materials can affect the style. For example: A wood fence can add a rustic look when grayed and weathered. Vinyl maintains more of a uniform and sophisticated look and feel.

Wood Privacy Fences

To this day wood privacy fences still remain a popular choice for homeowners.

Here are a variety of reasons to choose wood:

Wood fences add a natural beauty to your home and landscaping.
The initial cost of materials for wood privacy fences tends to be less than vinyl.
Wood fences be easily repainted or stained in different colors so you are not stuck with just one color.
Replacement material is plentiful.

There are also a few downfalls to wood fences:

Wood fences may rot, warp, or even get insect damage.
Wood can shrink over time especially if it is used when it is still green. It also expands and contracts under certain weather conditions. Both examples may work fencing and hardware loose. Loose hardware can create water traps deep inside the wood increasing the possibility of rotting.
Wood fences will have to be frequently maintained with coats of stain and/or water repellant especially if you do not want it to gray and have a weathered rustic look.
Warranties may not last as long as vinyl fences.

Common wood varieties used in privacy fences:

Cedar - Red Cedar is one of the most widely used wood in fences. It has a beautiful natural color as well as a natural resistance to rotting, warping, and insect damage. A water-resistant coating should still be use to further prevent weather and insect damage. It is also very strong and durable and so your fence can last for years if maintained properly.

Pine - Pressure treated pine has become a very popular choice for privacy fences. It is very strong and durable and yet costs less than cedar. Since it is pressure treated it will also resist rotting and insect damage and may resist such damage longer since the treatment is forced deep into the wood. Even though it is pressure treated it is recommended that a water-resistant coating is used.

Concrete:

Setting posts in concrete is a debatable subject. Concrete is thought to keep posts stable and prevent leaning over time. On the other hand it makes it very hard to replace posts when needed. Concrete can also increase the possibility of rotting. If you prefer to use concrete there is always the option of metal posts.

NOTE: When building a fence make sure that stainless steel, aluminum, or hot dipped galvanized nails and fasteners are used. If they are not used then your hardware will rust and weaken over time.

Vinyl Privacy Fences - PVC (polyvinyl chloride)

Vinyl fences are a hot item in privacy fencing.

Here are some most of the most notable reasons to choose vinyl over wood:

Physical Beauty - Vinyl has a beauty of it's own adding a more sophisticated and uniform look.

Style - Vinyl fencing has gained ground in the variety of fencing styles available to match the most popular wood styles.

Maintenance Free - Well almost. A good cleaning with mild detergent to clean dirt and residue off. But, it sure beats repainting and re-staining.

Durability - Vinyl can stand up to the most rigorous of weather and still maintain its beauty. Another good thing is that there is virtually no rotting and insect damage to worry about.

UV protection - Helps to protect your vinyl privacy fence against sun damage such as discoloring.

Longer warranty - With new technologies making vinyl fences stronger and more durable.Becaues of this most manufacturers can extend warranties to that which is longer than wood.

With all these benefits there are some downfalls:

Limited colors - Vinyl fences are available in limited colors. White is the most common color, but if you are looking for alternatives you may not find what you are looking for.

Cost - The initial cost of vinyl fences is still much higher than wood. On the brighter side, ongoing maintenance costs are very little.

Replacements may be limited - As long as the company still manufactures your parts for style of vinyl fence you should be ok.

Unless you want a more rustic look vinyl may the choice for you. If cannot afford a vinyl fence it may be worth waiting a bit until you can. For the most part, you won't be disappointed.

Well there you have it! Now it is up to you to do your homework and explore what the various companies and installers of privacy fences have to offer. Take your time and be sure choose your privacy fence wisely so that you can purchase the one that best enhances your yard and home.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Patios, Decks, and Fences | Fences

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(Article) - Beautiful Flowerbeds For Those Without Much Time For Weeding

Jorbins.com — Sun, 04 Mar 2007 00:00:00 GMT

Not all of us have a lot of time to care for flower beds, but just because your time or inclination for caring for flowers around your home is limited doesn't mean you can't add beautiful flowers into your landscaping.

One of the biggest complaints I hear about caring for flower gardens is the weeds!! Not everyone relishes digging in the soil and ridding it of those pesky little plants. There are many ways you can eliminate a lot of your weeding.

You can eliminate a lot of the weeding by placing breathable weed barrier cloth around the plants in your flower beds and covering it with wood chips or some other filler. Keep in mind wood chips are much easier to remove than rock. If you are planting your flowers from seeds you will need to be careful or wait till they come up to do this. Weed barrier might not be an option then, you may need to just stick with wood chips.

If you have a set area such as a brick flowerbed surrounding your home you can easily cut down on the work by first placing down your weed barrier and then filling it with pretty landscaping rock. Then all you need to add is some containers and fill them with flowers. The benefits of this is your flower beds will appear pretty all year round - especially if you choose attractive rocks and you eliminate a lot of the weeding chores. Weeding chores will also lessen as your plants grow and fill the containers. One of the drawbacks is you must make sure you water your plants more often since they are in containers and not down in the ground.

Larger containers will of course require less watering than larger ones. If in doubt go for the larger containers when picking them out for your flowers.

Another excellent tip is picking flower types that don't require a lot of care. I recommend you go to a greenhouse in your area and ask a lot of questions!! Before you go decide exactly how much area or containers you want to devote to flowers this year and take measurements. They can help you pick out plants to fill these areas much better if they know the area of space you are trying to fill. It is also important for them to know how large and deep your containers are too.

Keep in mind also annuals are much cheaper than perennials most of the time. But of course perennials will come back next year (hopefully). That may play a part in choosing the types of flowers you want as well.

It is so easy to get carried away when you go to a greenhouse, you see a pretty flower or plant and picture it in your own landscaping and decide that is what you want. But be careful, your landscaping my not be right for this type of plant. Again ask lots of questions to ensure your flower beds or containers will support these flower types. Some need lots of sun and some need very little.

Keep track of the types of flowers you are planting and where they are planted. That way at the end of the summer you can evaluate if you want to choose that plant again or try something new.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Flower Gardening | General Advice

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(Article) - Trimming Formal Hedges: How You Can Do It Right

Jorbins.com — Sat, 03 Feb 2007 00:00:00 GMT

A formal hedge is thought of as a row of shrubs or evergreens creating a wall in a garden or along a property line that is not left to grow wild. Hedge trimming is a way to create and maintain this formal look throughout the year as well as to keep leaves very dense to block vision.

As you read this article you will learn how to shape your hedges as well as the various hedge trimmers you can use to get the job done.

When to Trim

Deciding on the best time for trimming hedges depends on the species. The most common species can be trimmed frequently to maintain appearance. As a general rule of thumb you should trim in the spring and early-mid summer. Since there are different species and weather conditions, it is recommended that you consult an expert to help identify the variety of your hedge and obtain trimming advice specific for your area.

Size and Shape

Since there are various functions of hedges you need to have an idea on how high or wide you want your hedge. A hedge used for privacy will want to be about five to six feet high. Smaller shorter hedges can be used as walls and backdrops to gardens or when privacy isn't a factor.

When trimming your hedge you want to maintain a shape that is wider on the base than it is on top. What this does is allow maximum sunlight to the lower parts of the hedge. The lower part of the hedge may die from a lack of sunlight if it is sheared narrower than the top. This means that you can create a flat top (almost square), half circle, rounded top, pyramid, or any other shape you can think of just as long as the base is wider than the top.

Trimming Guidelines

Many times a guideline is preferred to keep trimming straight, even, and level. All you have to do is set a string line to the desired height on a pole on each end of the hedge. This will give you a guide to keep the top level. Be careful that any shearing being done does not cut the string.

Another method that can be used is a wood "template" that fits the desired profile of the hedge. With these templates you lay over your hedge and trim until you match the profile on the wood template.

Usually maintenance trimming can be done by eye simply by trimming down to the base of new growth.

Trimmers and Shears

Hand shears - They are just that! Usually hand shears are good for lighter duty trimming and finishing work. It can get tedious of you have large rows of hedges especially if you find yourself trimming more than once per year.

Electric hedge trimmers - These handy hedge trimmers can shear a hedge very quickly cutting your work time significantly. They do come in various sizes so you can choose one that fits your hedge trimming needs. One of the best features you will want to have is 2 switch or a lock off feature to prevent accidental starts.

One drawback to these electic hedge trimmers is that they use a power cord where you must have a long enough extension to reach all parts of the hedge. Another drawback is keeping the cord away from the blade. There are trimmers models available that are battery operated and may be worth looking into.

Gasoline hedge trimmers - Similar to the electric hedge trimmer but uses a gas powered engine. With these trimmers you won't have to fight with a power cord. You are free to roam around as much as you wish. These trimmers can be a bit noisy but the power they have can cut through some of the toughest branches.

TIP: When purchasing a gas powere or electric hedge trimmer you need to keep weight in mind. If you have long rows of hedges the weight of your trimmer can tire you out and hurt your arms after a bit.

Trimmer Blades

Keep trimming blades sharp at all times. Blades that are not sharp will gnaw, mash, split, and tear the branches of your hedge. This is unhealthy for your hedges and may increase chances for disease.

When using electric or gasoline hedge trimmers you will have to buy replacement blades. It is wise to have at least one replacement blade on hand at all times. When you start to see tearing and mashing of hedge branches it is time to replace the blade.

Filed In: Gardening and Landscaping | Gardening Basics | Pruning and Cutting

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