Jewellery is never made of 24 karat gold because it is too soft. Instead, the pure gold is mixed with other metals (alloys) when making jewellery. Alloys include nickel, copper, zinc and palladium.

How does white gold come into being? 24 karat yellow gold is mixed with alloys, nickel, zinc and/or palladium.

For example an 18K. white gold ring can be 75% gold and 25% palladium. Or an 18K. white gold ring can be 75% gold, 10% palladium, 10% nickel and 5% zinc. The constant is, in order for the ring to be 18K., 75% has to be gold. The alloy mixture is decided by the refiner or goldsmith.

The palladium and nickel alloys added to the yellow gold is what gives jewellery its white appearance. The underlying color is still yellow. It’s like taking a yellow crayon and drawing the sun on a piece of paper, then going over it with a white crayon. The yellow is still there, covered by the white.

Many manufacturers add a rhodium plating to the finished white gold jewellery piece. This gives it a very pleasing, almost platinum color. Over time the rhodium plating will wear away and what is left is a yellowish hue to the jewellery piece. It looks dingy, discolored and dull. I find, most times, cleaning the piece brings back a whiter look. I always use a cup of water with a teaspoon of any liquid with ammonia and detergent (e.g.  Mr. Clean) and an old toothbrush. Scrub well, rinse, dry and wear.

Another alternative is to re-rhodium plate the piece as often as needed. A ring would need to be re-plated more often than earrings or a pendant.

There have been many advancements in alloys and white gold. Manufacturers are now making white gold pieces and guarantee they will not turn yellow over time and jewellery stores have these in stock or can order them for you. They are more expensive but worth it in the long run.

We use 18K. white gold from a refiner and have not had any problems with it turning yellow. Our customers have been extremely happy with the results and that is the most important part of my work. I have, however, often re-rhodium plated the engagement ring when I am designing the new wedding bands. This way the engagement ring looks as pristine as the new wedding bands.

Ask your jeweller about white gold that is guaranteed not to turn yellow. You won’t be disappointed.

Any questions? Feel free to as. Email me anytime. Ruth@UniversalJewellers.ca

Universal Jewellers Inc.

The shape of your face is one criteria to consider when choosing a pair of earrings to flatter you and your lifestyle. There are so many earrings and earring styles to choose from but not every style is flattering to every face. Your face is beautiful and uniquely yours and finding the perfect pair of earrings that make you feel gorgeous, hip and vivacious is important.

To find out the shape of your face, measure it with a tape measure or ruler.

• 1. Measure your face across the top of your cheekbones.
• 2. Measure across your jaw line from the widest point to the widest point.
• 3. Measure across your forehead at the widest point. Generally the widest point will be somewhere about halfway between your eyebrows and your hairline.
• 4. Measure from the tip of your hairline to the bottom of your chin.

Oval Face – Length equal to one and a half times width.

Round Face – Your face is as wide as it is long. This may vary a little but generally the measurement is close.

Oblong – Longer than it is wide.

Heart – Narrow at jaw line, wide at cheekbones/and or forehead.

Square – your face is about as wide as it is long.

Diamond – Widest at cheekbones, narrow forehead and jaw line of approximately equal widths.

Here are a few things to think about when looking for earrings.

Oval Face

Slightly narrower at the jaw line than at the temples, with a gently rounded hairline.

Celebs with an oval face include Kate Hudson, Jessica Alba, Charlize Thereon,

Best Suited Style: Soft shapes such as pearls, teardrops, ovals and studs work the best.

Oval faces are very versatile and can wear pretty much anything. Just experiment with all styles to see which ones you prefer.

Universal Jewellers’ Earring Gallery

Round Face

Circular face, as wide as it is long, characterized by a round chin.

Celebs with a round face include – Cameron Diaz, Kate Winslet, Drew Barrymore

Best Suited Style: Long, lean and angular curvy lines to elongate the round face. Drop earrings in oblongs, ovals and dangles work best. Bold angular stud earrings can also look great.

Avoid: Large, chunky earrings. And steer clear of hoops and small studs.

Universal Jewellers’ Earring Gallery

Oblong Face

Long and slender, about the same width at forehead and just below cheekbones. May have a very narrow chin or a very high forehead.

Celebs with an oblong face include: Hilary Swank, Sarah Jessica Parker, Terri Hatcher, Angelina Jolie, Gwyneth Paltrow

Best suited earring styles for an oblong shaped face: Statement chandelier styles with lots of volume. Simple studs also work well as they draw the eyes horizontally.

Avoid: Long and angular earrings that mirror your face shape.

Universal Jewellers’ Earring Gallery

Heart Shaped Face

Face is wide at the temples and hairline, narrowing to a small delicate chin.

Celebs with a heart shaped face – Reese Witherspoon, Scarlett Johansson, Sohie Dahl, Naomi Campbell

Best suited earring styles for a heart shaped face: Earrings that are wider at the bottom than at the top. Earrings with soft curves such as tear drops or ovals. Pyramid style earrings can also work well as they are wider at the bottom.

Avoid: Heart shaped earrings and those that come to a point at the bottom.

Universal Jewellers’ Earring Gallery

Square Face

Strong and broad forehead with angular jaw and a square hair line.

Celebs with a square face – Katie Holmes, Demi Moore, Geena Davis, Salma Hayek

Best suited earring styles for a square face: Angular, rounded edges which will soften a square face. Medium to long styles are best and hoops look amazing.

Avoid: Large, angular styles as these can make your face appear wider.

Universal Jewellers’ Earring Gallery

Diamond Face

A cross between heart and a dramatic oval. Widest at the cheekbones, and narrow equally at the forehead and jaw line.

Celebs with a diamond shaped face: Katherine Hepburn, Linda Evangelista, Sophia Loren

Best suited earring styles for a diamond shaped face: Earrings with more width than length, a combination of straight lines and curves are great. Studs also look good on diamond shape faces as do small drops.

Avoid: Diamond shape earrings and angular squares.

Universal Jewellers’ Earring Gallery

Earrings are an extension of your personality. Earrings frame your face. Complete your outfit. You want to look balanced and confident – compliment your style and personal taste. Earrings will draw peoples eyes to your face so you want to bring out the best features, like your eyes, or mouth. Remember, earrings are fun and to be enjoyed. You will find the perfect pair in Universal Jewellers’ earring gallery.

Most every mom waits for Mother’s Day. We want to be treated special this one day of the year. Shown that we have made a difference. That we are loved. That we matter. Whether it’s a phone call from a child who lives far away, a card, flowers, jewelry, breakfast in bed or a lunch date, nothing gives a mother more joy, happiness and pleasure than to hear, "I love you mom".

Being a mom myself, I know how I melt inside and brim with love and pride when my son says "I love you mom". It may be a four word sentence, but it’s something no one can take away from us, ever. It fills our heart with such overwhelming love, it can’t be put into words. "I love you mom", means the world to me.

Mom’s are notoriously difficult to buy for. Should you be looking for a gift for your Mom, mother-in-law, grandma or a special woman in your life, I have some ideas for you.

My mom loves her bling, and throughout the years I have made her, and many clients, interesting and spectacular jewelry pieces. Here is the link to My Portfolio.

More excellent gift ideas can be found in Universal Jewellers’ Galleries.

My mom loves playing games on line. She loves solitaire and bejewelled, so I may get her a subscription to one of these:

Play online games at GameDuell Great for card games, pool, darts and more.

Fun Games from Shockwave! I have to admit, this is my favorite, I’m a member. Great all around games.

My mom loves to dance and watch movies, the gift of music and movies always brings a smile.

Wolfgang’s Vault or
Fye

My mom is about the same size as Oprah. I found this great site that has beautiful clothes for the full figure woman!

www.ullapopken.com

Perhaps mom would like a cell phone application or two

Handango – excellent for cell phone apps

She loves gadgets and puttering

SmartHome

She could use a new watch!

Name Brand Watches at the Lowest Prices

Sports stuff for the sports woman.

ProGolf.com! or
DicksSportingGoods.com!

Maybe a new handbag, wallet or cosmetics case:

Crystal Handbags, Betty Boop items, Dog or Cat Purses, to many unique and wonderful items to list

There are so many gift giving ideas, I can’t list them all – if you have any questions or want more ideas feel free to email me at ruth@universaljewellers.ca.

Each piece of fine jewellery you purchase should come with an appraisal certificate. This certificate is used for insurance purposes. You should always give your insurance company a copy of the certificate, never the original. Certificates can be misfiled, misplaced, lost or tossed by the insurance company. I’ve heard it all, so please keep the original in your possession.

Until recently, insurance companies have accepted appraisals whether prepared by a qualified appraiser or not. Because of the increase in fraudulent claims, most insurance companies now insist on a detailed appraisal prepared by a qualified gemologist. Ask the appraiser about his/her experience in appraising and what their gemological credentials are.

A jewellery appraisal should:

• describe the setting, the major stones including type, size and quality, description of the minor stones
color, clarity, and cut
measurements of the stones –


measuring the stones gives the approximate weight of the stones (the weight is arrived at by gemological formulas, allowing the gemologist to calculate the approximate weight of your diamond without removing the stone)

• give the metal, karat and total gram weight of the mounting
• state if the stone in treated or enhanced in any way
• give an approximate retail replacement value of the jewellery
• include a photograph of the item

Thus, should you ever need to file a claim, this detailed description insures that your replacement jewellery matches the quality of the piece you originally purchased.

The store you purchased the jewellery from, should supply you with an appraisal free of charge. If the purchase is substantial, have it re-appraised by an independent gemologist to substantiate what you were told. An independent appraisal will give you peace of mind.

When purchasing jewellery, be sure you have the option of returning the jewellery within a limited period of time. This allows you to return the piece if an independent appraisal shows the jewellery is not of the quality the retailer claimed. Such a return is immeasurably easier if you make your purchase by credit card, rather than by cash or check.

A Jewellery appraisal is an opinion backed and supported by training, equipment and experience, as to the authenticity, quality, design and value of a piece of jewelry.

Firstly and foremost – Peace of Mind –

Purchasing a diamond with a GIA or AGS Diamond Grading Report will give you peace of mind. You will know what you were told by the diamond merchant is indeed what you purchased. If your diamond merchant of choice does not have a Diamond Grading Report on the diamond you are interested in purchasing, please have the diamond appraised by a qualified gemologist not associated with the firm you are purchasing the diamond from. It never ceases to amaze me how many people are fooled by smooth talking sales people and never have their diamond purchase confirmed by an outside source.

A diamond grading report is a simple, straightforward document which describes all the diamond’s specs. It is a "blueprint" of a diamond, it tells you the diamond’s exact measurements and weight, as well as the details of its cut and quality. It precisely points out all the individual characteristics of the stone. It verifies and confirms the identity of the diamond.

Another plus for purchasing a diamond with a Diamond Grading Report – it makes shopping for diamonds so much easier. It allows you to make an informed choice about your diamond selections and to comparison shop among various diamond merchants. You can compare one diamond with a particular weight and quality with other diamonds of similar weight and quality to determine which supplier will give you the most value for your money.

If your diamond merchant of choice tries to tell you a Diamond Grading Report is an unnessary expense, run to the nearest exit. Most times these merchants want to sell what THEY have in stock. Ordering a diamond with a report will cost them time and money. A diamond merchants job is to make your purchase as smooth and painless as possible, their job is to make sure you are happy, secure and get the diamond you want and the way you want it. It’s your hard earned money. You are in the drivers seat.

Anatomy of a Diamond Grading Report

Date: Please make sure the certificate is not very old. Usually a certificate, which is 2-3 years old, should be good. In the case of an old certificate, usually 4 – 5 years old, you should make sure there is no damage done to the stone. No matter how old the report is, or what the jeweller tells you, check for nicks, chips, abrasions (can be caused by storing the diamond with other diamonds). Look around the circumference of the diamond with a 10 power loupe (your jeweller should have on handy, if not, perhaps this is not the right person to deal with).

Report Number: This is very important in case you loose your certificate. The number assigned to the Diamond Grading Report is on file with the grading institution that produced the report. Additional copies can be requested for a nominal fee.Shape and Cutting Style: The diamond shape and cutting style, e.g. round brilliant, pear shape, oval, princess etc.

Measurements/Dimensions: Lists the diamond’s dimensions in millimeters. This part of the report has the measurements of the stone in millimeters to the hundredth of decimal. The measurements could be the highest diameter measurement and the lowest diameter measurements for a round. Fancy shapes have the length and the width.

Carat Weight: The weight of diamond listed to the nearest hundredth of a carat. e.g. 1.01carats.

Color Grade: A grading which assesses the absence of color in a diamond.

Clarity Grade: Clarity grade (number and placement of inclusions in the diamond) determined under 10x magnification.

Cut Grade: A grade of cut as determined by a diamond’s face-up appearance, design and craftsmanship and based on several factors such as visual appeal, facet arrangement, pavilion facet angles, girdle percentages, etc. A cut grade is available on round diamonds graded after Jan. 1, 2006.

Finish: Grades that represent a diamond’s surface and facet placement.

Polish: Rating the overall smoothness of the diamond’s surface.

Symmetry: Measuring the shape, alignment and placement of the diamond’s facets in relation to one another as well as the evenness of the outline.

Fluorescence: Color, and strength of color when diamond is viewed under UV light. Avoid diamonds with yellow or strong blue fluorescence. They make the higher color grade diamonds look milky or oily. Fluorescent diamonds have a very blurred brilliance. In lower grade diamonds they add value as it makes the stone look whiter than what is actually is.

Comments: A description of additional diamond characteristics not already mentioned in the report.

Clarity Plot: A map of the approximate size, type, and position of inclusions as viewed under a microscope.

Proportion Diagram: A map of the diamond’s actual proportions. Proportions are usually mentioned in percentage or angles. The right percentage and angles result in an optimum balance of dispersion and brilliance. They consist of Table %: The table decides how much brilliance (white light) is reflected back to the eye. A majority of diamonds have their table percentage ranging from 53 % to 64 %.

Reading a Proportion Diagram

Proportion diagrams will typically include the following information:

Total Depth %: The height of a gemstone measured from the culet to the table. This is very important. A diamond with a high total depth % (more than 63%) could add weight to the stone but no beauty. On the other hand low total depth percentage will look bigger to the naked eye than its weight. In both cases the stone looks dark when looking straight through the table.

Table: The table is the largest facet of the diamond and considered the window. In round brilliants, the range of generally accepted table to overall diameter is 53% to 66%.In fancy shapes, the table diameter and other proportions are not scrutinized in the same way as in round brilliants.

Girdle: Range of girdle thickness. This is probably the most neglected part by the consumer and rarely mentioned by the jeweller. A thick girdle adds to the weight of the diamond without adding to the brilliance or fire of the stone. It also makes a diamond setter’s life miserable. On the other hand, a very thin girdle is susceptible to chipping and breaking. I have seen diamonds that look like 0.80cts. but actually weighed 1.01cts. The girdle was so thick, it added to the weight but the diamond had no fire.

Culet: Appearance, or lack thereof, of the culet facet. It is the bottom tip of the diamond. The culet is not visible unless it is large, very large or extremely large These should be avoided. However nowadays minimal amounts of diamonds have these. They are mainly seen in older cuts like European, old mine cut. I have seen mishandled diamonds where the culets are abraded or chipped because they rubbed against other diamonds. Also, if the diamond is pre-owned, the setter could have caused damage to the culet or girdle of the diamond.

Not every diamond sold comes with a Gem Lab report (certificate). If you purchase a diamond without a GemLab report, please, please, please go out and have it appraised by a gemologist not associated with the jewellery store or person you purchased the diamond from.

A Gem Lab report is not the same thing as an appraisal. A Gem Lab report describes the quality of a loose diamond, but it does not place a monetary value on the gem. An appraisal places a monetary value on your diamond, but does not certify the quality of the diamond.

Please also note: a diamond graded by a person who graduated from the GIA course and now holds the designation G.G. (Graduate Gemologist) is NOT the same as a GIA Grading Report.

GIA, AGS, and EGL, are examples of independent diamond grading gem labs. These gem labs grade each loose diamond in a controlled environment and each is examined by gemologists trained in diamond grading.

The report does not give the monetary value of the diamond; it conveys straightforward product information that fully describes and evaluates the critical factors about the diamond that affect quality, beauty and proportions.

A gem lab has a collection of equipment allowing the gemologist to thoroughly inspect the loose diamond, determine and grade its qualities. In grading a loose diamond, gemologists have the correct lighting, use highly sophisticated spectrometers and other high-tech equipment. Also included in this list of high-tech equipment are:

• Binocular 10-power microscope with dark field illuminator
• Diamondlite or color grader
• Dichroscope
• Fiber optic lighting
• Filters and lenses
• Leveridge gauge, millimeter gauge, calipers, and ruler
• Long and short wave ultraviolet lights
• Master set of 5 GIA-certified color grading diamonds (not cubic zirconium stones)
• Master set of colored stones or color communication system
• Metal testing acids and gold tip needles
• Penlight
• Photographic equipment
• Polariscope with interference figure sphere or lens
• Proportionscope
• Refractometer
• Scale, preferably electronic, that gives weight in carats, grams and pennyweight, to .001 (adapted with a balance to determine specific gravity)
• Spectroscope
• Thermal conductivity tester

This equipment is used to determine the diamonds carat weight, color, clarity, and geometric proportions, whether it has been enhanced, whether it is synthetic or natural or imitation. Without a proper gem lab, a retailer cannot be certain of the quality of jewelry he/she is selling. You, the consumer, must then take the word of the jeweller.