Italy Shire

Did you know The Mamuthones?

2010-01-30T13:32:00.000+01:00

The Mamuthones is one of the most interesting archaic carnivals in the whole of Europe, which takes place on Shrove Tuesday in the old town centre of . Apart from the floats and various other entertainments, all recent additions to the carnival, the heart of the event is centred on two closed groups of masked men: the 12 Mamuthones and the 8 Issoahodores.
They are dressed in their costumes according to a precise order which is centuries old, and which takes a very long time. The Mamuthones carry a heavy bunch of handbells and their faces are hidden behind fearsome masks: their terrifying appearance is offset to some extent by the contrast with the colourful costumes of the Issoahodores.
During the day the protagonists have no contact with the public but perform a mysterious dance, with slow solemn paces, that is drawn out until midnight. The masked figures radiate a solemn aura that is extremely moving.

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Specchia and the pilgrims’ road as known as Cammino Leucadense

2009-12-18T22:19:00.000+01:00

The pilgrims’ road

Time has stood still here in Specchia, considered one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Just a few kilometres outside the town you can still find traces of the ancient Via dei Pellegrini, also known as the “Cammino Leucadense”, the route used by pilgrims to reach the Madonna di Finibus Terrae sanctuary at Leuca. From the year 1300, the first Holy Year, it was also used as a route to Rome.

According to tradition, in 1220, Saint Francis of Assisi also used this road on his return from the Holy Land, a fact backed by the presence of the Black Franciscan church and monastery.
Along the Via dei Pellegrini there is still evidence of its past that was rich in events that deeply influenced the life and culture of the local people; this penitential route touched the edge of Specchia, continued on to the small church of S. Angelo, now reduced to just a few ruins, then continued on to the Serra dei Peccatori and Serra dei Cianci.
The main road connected numerous crypts, sanctuaries, votive chapels and places of worship scattered along the mountain ranges. It is still possible to go along the secondary branch of the road leading to the abbeys and churches that offered refreshment to the body and the spirit and which became halting places for the pilgrims.

The Specchia’s area

Specchia, situated in the hills of the Salentina peninsula and surrounded by olive groves and Mediterranean maquis, also offers a splendid view of much of Capo di Leuca, a panorama lit by the blazing sun and the reflection from the white-washed walls of the houses.
The village offers peace and solitude as well as the opportunity of admiring its Catalan and Baroque portals, cornices in Leccese stone, ornate corbels on the balconies, wrought iron railings, arches, friezes and votive niches.
Conservation of this ancient hamlet is an objective, and you will note the absence of cables on the outside of the houses. The narrow lanes, interrupted by flights of steps and closed to traffic, enclose this hamlet which is the result of spontaneous architecture dating from the 16th century.

Useful information

Town Hall via San Giovanni Bosco 1 tel. 0833536293 fax 0833539769 www.comune. specchia.lecce.it segreteria@comune. specchia.lecce.it

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Valesio (Torchiarolo) in Puglia

2009-12-09T22:08:00.000+01:00

Valesio (Torchiarolo)

In ancient times, Valesio was known as Valisu and it was an ancient Messapic settlement that was later occupied by the Greeks and then the Romans. The oldest ceramic finds made in the area are from the 8th century BC. In the 4th century, the settlement really became an expansive urban area, covering about 72 km2 (90 ha, according to various ongoing studies).
At the beginning of the Imperial era, the Greek geographer Strabo baptised the town Aletia, while the best known Latin writers called it Valetium or Balesium. In the 4th century, in the Tabula Peutingeriana it was named as Balentium, and then Valentium. The ancient town was on the Via Appia running from Traiana to Càlabra. It was also crossed by a stream and, during the reign of Constantine I the Great (280-337) is became a station for the Imperial post service. Since it was halfway between Brindisi and Lecce, it also was a staging post (that is, a place where horses and mules could be changed) and offered other services, including a spa complex. Historians generally agree that Valesio was abandoned towards the end of the Roman period, although some claim it was destroyed by William the Bad in 1147.
As yet, there is no archaeological evidence to support the latter theory. The Valesio archaeological area covers about 90 ha in the north of the Torchiarolo municipality, about 5 km from the town. It includes the remnants of the settlement that existed from the 8th century BC to the late Roman age and the ring of walls (4/3C BC) with a double curtain wall filled with stones.
The latter structure is about 3 km long, 4 m high and is still clearly visible in many parts. Behind the Via Traiana-Càlabra, you can see the structures from a late Roman spa. Indeed, visiting this part really makes it possible to learn how the baths worked and how the water was heated using a complex system of hot air. Various objects have been found at the site, including precious vases, weapons, a range of gold and silver objects, Messapic, Greek and Roman coins and a number of inscriptions. These finds are now on display in the provincial museum. The quantity and variety coins from a number of the major cities of those times indicate the importance of Valesio as a trading centre. It is likely that it even had its own mint producing silver coins. It is also worth visiting the Parish church, a restored 18th-century building.

Riserva Statale delle Cesine

2009-12-05T22:07:00.000+01:00

Riserva Statale delle Cesine

The Cesine wetland lies 5 km from San Cataldo, which was the old Porto Adriano that served Lecce. The wetland covers 620 ha, with 348 in the Riserva Statale delle Cesine, created in 1977. The area is managed by the WWF and, since 1980, it has been the Riserva Naturale di Popolamento Animale. It is both beautiful and varied, with rich vegetation and a range of animals, some of which live in the park and others that are migratory. Moreover, this is one of the last stretches of the coastal marshes that stretched from Brindisi to Otranto.
Although this is predominantly a wetland, it does cover a number of environments and, particular, various sections of transitional vegetation. There are large expanses of reed-beds (among the reeds, you might see the colourful yellow iris or purple orchid), numerous water channels, stretches of swamp, fens and two ponds (Pantano Grande and Salapi). These are separated from the sea by a barrier of sand dunes colonised by European searocket, salsola, sea bindweed, Phoenician juniper, sea holly and the lily.
The other areas of the reserve are the pine groves, Mediterranean scrubland, holm oak wood and the cultivated zones. Since the reserve lies on one of the main Mediterranean migratory routes, it is a stopover point for numerous birds, such as mallards, northern pintails, wigeons, sheldrakes, mergansers, ferruginous ducks, grey and purple herons, great egrets, little egrets, spoonbills, marsh harriers, terns, little bitterns and black-winged stilts. The Riserva Statale delle Cesine is open all year round and also offers various guided tours, environmental summer camps and adventure camps for children. The ‘Le Cesine’ grange has been turned into accommodation and a Visitors’ Centre. It is also the hub of a series of trails that explore the pine groves and Mediterranean scrubland before reaching the hides where you can watch the marshes. One of these trails is suitable for wheelchairs.

How to get there
Riserve delle Cesine: from Lecce take the SS543 to San Cataldo and then the Salento coast road for 5 km going south.

Useful addresses
Riserva statale delle Cesine visits and information: Coop. OASI, tel. 0832892264.

Oasi Naturalistica di Torre Guaceto

2009-12-03T22:06:00.000+01:00

Oasi Naturalistica di Torre Guaceto

The Oasi Naturalistica di Torre Guaceto lies about 15 km north of Brindisi and consists of a marine protected area and a state nature reserve. These areas cover, respectively, about 600 ha of sea and 1,200 ha of land, and are managed by the WWF. The reserve protects a freshwater wetland surrounded by Mediterranean scrubland and separated from the sea by sand dunes. The sea section runs from
Penna Grossa to the Apani rocks, covering about 5 miles. The outer barrier is the point where the sea reaches a depth of 50 m, about a mile off the coast. The pools of water in the wetland, filled with vast reed-beds of Phragmites australis, are fed by freshwater springs that drain here from inland zones (‘guaceto’ literally means ‘place of freshwater’).
The dunes, rising 10 m and extending for about 800 m, are the result of thousands of years of the movement of the sea and wind. They are also the realm of pioneer plants. The scrubland, especially common in the northern reaches of the reserve, has holm oak, Aleppo pine, juniper, mastic, various forms of cistus, myrtle, thyme and squill, a geophyte that can survive fires because it has an underground bulb that is rich in nutrients.
Finally, the rocks are home to Aglium commutatum, known locally as sea garlic. In terms of animals, it is worth listing the badger, which digs visible dens in the dunes, the weasel and the fox.
The wetlands also provide a nesting area for a large number of migratory birds, like the grey heron, little egret, moorhen and marsh harrier. The sea is rich in animal life and you might see dolphins and the loggerhead turtle. Sometimes, quite far off-shore, you can see rorqual whales.
The protected area, open all year, also has various guided activities led by experts: cycle-trekking, walking and, only in the summer, sea-watching, which is done using a mask and fins.

How to get there
Oasi di Torre Guaceto: take the SS379 Bari-Brindisi road and exit at Serranova going towards Punta Penna Grossa.

Useful addresses
Riserva naturale dello Stato e Area marina protetta di Torre Guaceto visits and information: Consorzio di gestione di Torre Guaceto contrada Serranova 26 Carovigno tel. 0831989885.

The Nature in Province of Viterbo

2009-11-26T15:01:00.000+01:00

Due to an industrial development limited to very few areas, the province of Viterbo is of great environmental interest with vast uncontaminated regions.

We begin at the Cimino hills, or better still, from the NATURE RESERVE OF VICO LAKE. This area, envelopped in an extraordinary frame of mountains, stretches for approximately 3.OOO hectares and is covered for two-thirds by giants beeches, chestnut and age-long cerris; the remaining partis dedicated to the valuable cultivation of hazelnuts.The flora is particularly luxuriant among other flowers we can find orchids, violets, scyllas, snowdrops and the lilies of Saint John. Also the fauna life is extremely rich: buzzards, lanners, kites, pilgrim hawks, woodpeckers, tawny owls and little owls not forgetting acquatic species such as the herons, the ducks and the limicoulous.
As for mammals along the nature trails we encounter foxes, porcupines, wild boars, badgers and beech martens. As for the lake fauna we find tenches, royal perches, pikes, eels and whitefishes. In addition to the nature trails within the Reserve it is possible to find a parking area and comfortable picnic areas. Remaining at the slopes of the Cimino Hills near SORIANO NEL CIMINO the FAGGETA is well worth a visit. It is a vast area covered with age-longs beeches situated at more than 1.OOO meters above sea-level.
At CORCHIANO we can visit the WWF OASIS, where, inside the 500 hectares of uncontaminated land buzzards and kestrels make nests, living together with royal owls and barn owls. Apart from hawks and nocturnal birds of prey, there are also lapwings, woodpeckers, jays, wood cocks and wood pigeons.
Among the mammals are foxes, porcupines, badgers and extremely rare wild cats. We then move on and reach CALCATA to visit the SUBURBAN PARK VALLE DEL TREJA.
This protected area stretches for approximately 1.000 hectares. The inaccessible gorges hollowed out by the river are inhabited by foxes, porcupines, badgers and weasels, while the sky is dominated by hawks, such as kites, kestrels, buzzards and by nocturnal birds of prey such as owls, tawny owls and barn owls. Possible encounters: jays and woodpeckers.
After a brief visit to MONTEROSI LAKE we move on to oneof the most interesting places: the SUBURBAN PARK MARTURANUM at BARBARANO ROMANO. The area of the Park varies in altitude from the 900 metersof the Cimino Hills to the 600 meters of the Tolfa Mountains. The Park is subject to continous climatic and morphological changes.
The arid and bare hills of the Southern part contrast with the inaccessible gorges and deep vallies covered with luxuriant vegetation in the North. This is where numerous animals species find thier natural habitat. Birds of prey: kites, buzzards, kestrels, pilgrim hawks, tawny owls, owls, scop owls, royal owls. Among the mammals worthy of note is the exceptional presence of the wild cat, not forgetting beech martens, weasels, foxes and wild boars.
Particularly interesting is encountering horses and cows of the Maremma grazingin the wild. From Barbarano Romano we are headed towards the coastto visit the NATURE RESERVE DELLE SALINE at TARQUINIA where there is a safe refuge for numeous birds such as herons, cormorants, hawks, herodias alba and ducks. Following a short strip of the Aurelia we reach VULCI (MONTALTO DI CASTRO) where there is a WWF OASIS. The protected area stretches over 158 hectares alongthe Fiora River. Herons, nocturnal crows, herodias alba, mallards and also the extremely rare otter find refuge here.
Leaving Vulci we reach the LAMONE FOREST in the FARNESE TERRITORY an then on the MEZZANO LAKE at LATERA. The inacceesible undergrowth that stretches up to theborder of Tuscany is mainly made up of cerris and the tipycal mediterranean maquis. In the undergrowth there are the characteristic murce , that is large rocks “mysteriously” joined together.
At ACQUAPENDENTE we can visit the NATURE RESERVE OF MONTE RUFENO.
This area stretches over 3.000 hectares near the river Paglia. Within the reserve there are many species such as deers, badgers, foxes, porcupines, stone martens and wild boars. Birds include scops owls, owls,tawny owls. There are also blooming flowers that can be admired inside the FLOWER MUSEUM and animals can be seen on foot, on horseback or by mountain-bike. Along the Cassia we reach BOLSENA LAKE. With a perimeter of approximately 43 km the basin makes up the biggest Italian volcanic lake.
Last stop is at CASTIGLIONE IN TEVERINA on the VALLE DEL TEVERE a few kilometers away from VALLE DEI CALANCHI at BAGNOREGIO: clayey (furrows) carved by atmospheric agents into fascinating and monumental forms in the environmental context of the VALLE DEL TEVERE

Carfizzi: an Albanian island in the mountains Between Basilicata and Calabria

2009-11-25T15:59:00.000+01:00

An Albanian island in the mountains between Basilicata and Calabria there is an ethnic-linguistic island of Albanian origin that constitutes a cultural melting-pot deeply linked to its roots, to which Carfizzi also belongs.
Arberesh, an ancient Albanian language, is still spoken fluently in Carfizzi, the smallest municipality in the province of Crotone. In the town it is possible to see graffiti decorations around the windows and on the house fronts.
Shawls and linen and woolen covers with Byzantine patterns are still woven using hand looms, and household items, such as straw baskets, are made by hand using century-old traditions.
The goldsmith’s art is also of importance and incorporates Oriental designs such as the jannacche, hollow spheres of gold twisted by hand used in necklaces.
Typical products are red wine, olive oil, and cheese such as ricotta, pecorino and caciocavallo. A typical dish is the furisiscka’, a soup made with courgettes and their flowers dressed with crude olive oil accompanied with hot toasted bread.
The traditional costume is the szocha, a dress of Albanian origins with hand embroidered details that the women wear on special days. In the summer there are various folkloristic events when the girls wear these splendid costumes and the gold jewellery that has been passed down from mother to daughter.
The area Situated in the Presilane hills north of the area of Marchesato, Carfizzi, which stands on a splendid hill isolated by the deep gorges of two streams, was founded in the 15th century by Demetrius Reres, a general invited to Calabria by the Captain-General of Albania to help Ferdinand I of Aragon, King of Naples, after the revolt of the feudatories who had remained loyal to the Angevins.
When the inhabitants of ancient Crisma fled from the Saracens to the mountains, they founded the villages of Carfidi, Trivio and Santa Venera, from which, in around 1530, Carfizzi came into being. The luxuriant greenery of the Montagnella park, founded to protect the Mediterranean maquis, reveals the uncontaminated beauty of the area of Carfizzi.

Foggia’s Wines

2009-11-21T21:56:00.000+01:00

Puglia’s northern wine district is in the province of Foggia. The chain of hills that rise from the Tavoliere plain to gradually blend with the Daunia mountains, with their clay soil, are a good starting point for exploring the area’s wines.
The town of San Severo is the largest wine producing centre in the area, all the wines, reds and whites, under its umbrella have DOC certification and are generally based on white Bombino grapes and Tuscan Trebbiano. This powerhouse has gradually been flanked over the years by the district of Lucera, the historical heart of the local Troia grape growing area, which yields the original red DOC, Cacc’e mmitte. The area also produces the DOC wines Orta Nova and the red , as well as the two IGT wines, Daunia and Puglia.

Some of these wines also use another two typical strains of local red grapes that become ever more prevalent the further south you go in Puglia: primitivo and negroamaro.

Scents and specialities from the Grecanic culture in Calabria

2009-11-13T15:48:00.000+01:00

In pockets of Puglia and Calabria, roughly 16- 17,000 people perpetuate Greek, or Grecanic, culture through their speech and traditions. In the Calabrian peninsular the Grecanic culture areas are in Bovesia and the Sila Greca and above all in Bova, Bova Marina, Roccaforte del Greco and Roghudi, with the two hamlets of Amendolea and Gallicanò, in the province of Reggio Calabria. Experts wonder whether these Greek-speaking areas are directly connected to the Ionic colonies that were part of Magna Graecia 2500 years ago.
Although a more logical explanation is that the origin of these communities goes back to Byzantine times, and the emigration of the Hellenic populations fleeing from Slav, Albanian, Wallachian and Bulgarian advances and the raids of Norman and Arab pirates.
The culture of the founders has been preserved down through the centuries mainly thanks to the Basilian monks, whose fathers went into exile to and who still today hold their rites in Greek.

The Calabrian Greek-speaking area shares a similar climate and an ancient farming and herding economy based on that trio of typical Mediterranean products: the vine, oil and grain with their original homeland.
These fruits of the earth are flanked by herding, mainly sheep and goats, that provide meat, milk and cheese. Inevitably the local cuisine has blended in with that of the countryside around it, although it is still possible to catch a glimpse of the Hellenic tradition in some of the more archaic dishes. One example is ‘lestopitta’, a quickly made pizza mix of flour and water that is fried and used instead of bread.
The same area also produces ‘cordelle’, made from a mixture of rye flour and served simply with oil, cheese and pepper. Closer to Calabria’s own traditions are ‘maccaruni’, spun around a spindle and served with a tomato or simple meat sauce often based on goats’ meat.

The Lombard Abbey in San Vincenzo al Volturno

2009-11-06T14:21:00.000+01:00

San Vincenzo al Volturno is one of Molise’s most important medieval centres, with its monastery founded towards the end of the 7th century under the aegis of the Lombard Gisulfo I, Duke of Benevento. The monastery, connected to Montecassino, reached the height of its influence in the 9th century, when under its abbot, Giosuè, it had over 300 monks, eight churches and possessions in the regions of Abruzzo, Lazio, Campania and Puglia.
It maintained its primacy during the reign of Charlemagne by dint of privileges and donations, but entered a period of crisis in 848 after an earthquake, followed in 882 by a sack by the Arabs.
Around the year 1000 the monastery was rebuilt on the other side of the river, in a more easily defended position. Today it is still rich in relics of the past and sacred works of art, while its original abandoned site is an archaeological dig.

Isernia and the tempting trails in medieval Molise

2009-11-04T14:19:00.000+01:00

Isernia is an ancient town which still bears the signs of medieval life, although little is left of its original medieval architecture after the numerous times the city was razed to the ground over the centuries and the damage done by the heavy bombing it suffered in 1943, during the air raids of the Second World War.
One of the few remaining traces is the Fontana della Fraterna (Fraternity fountain), dating back to the 13th-14th centuries, near the cathedral. In Romanesque style, it rests on a stone plinth, centrally decorated with dolphins and a floral motif. In the centre is a small loggia supported by richly decorated columns.
The church of San Francesco still conserves its original 13th-century Romanesque portal, although the rest of the building is largely the result of the 18th-century reconstruction. The interior houses a precious, 14th century, wooden statue of the Madonna della Provvidenza. The S. Maria delle Monache convent complex, which today does duty as the town library, houses an important heritage of manuscripts, documents and old books going back to the 14th century.
There are several places to visit around Isernia for those interested in medieval history. Fornelli has a medieval centre with a baronial castle, a fortified residence dating back to the 5th century with its living quarters protected by towers, walls and a sentry walkway. The ancient village that has clustered around the castle has always been under the protection of the powerful San Vincenzo al Volturno abbey.
A few kilometres away, at Cerro al Volturno, is an imposing castle built on an isolated rocky spur in a dominant position during the 15th century, with a village huddling in its shadow. The stronghold was built on the ruins of older fortifications going back to the Lombard conquest, in a virtually inaccessible position.

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Oasi Le Mortine between Molise and Campania

2009-11-02T14:17:00.000+01:00

Historically, the Volturno valley is the northern border of the Torcino and Mastrati Royal Hunting Reserve, owned by the Bourbons. This wild zone is inhabited by wolves and goats, and is an important part of the natural heritage. The Oasi Le Mortine lies on the brief stretch of river that forms the border between Molise and Campania. It occupies an artificial oxbow lake that was formed following the building of a barrage to create a reservoir to produce hydroelectric power.
Enel owns about 32 ha around the Presa Volturno power station, cre ated in the 1950s. The surrounding land has been entrusted, by Enel, to WWF Italia. This area, together with a 15 ha public island in the river and a small artificial lake, form a 50 ha protected area of great environmental interest. The various water environments are surrounded by hygrophilous plants – that is, plants that live on land but prefer perennially damp conditions, such as willows, poplars and alders.
This is one of the best conserved such woods in Italy, although the trees once covered about 100 ha (before indiscriminate felling changed things). This section, though, has been ‘intact’ for at least the last 50 years. In this area, between the Mainarde and Matese areas, the Volturno runs through a thick wood of water-loving vegetation.
Secondary branches of the river also cut through the trees, creating impenetrable islands with unique features. The river then widens as it nears the Enel dam, causing the water to flow more slowly and thus allowing reed-beds to form near shores of the reservoir. The vegetation that once surrounded the entire course of the river is still well preserved in this segment. You can see typical riparian plants, with some hydrophyte plants (adapted to growing in water) and helophyte ones (adapted to marshes), as well as vegetation that favours pebbly river banks, some scrubland and, especially, the hygrophilous wood.
The reed-bed of Phragmites australis and the reed-mace are found on the steep banks of the Enel reservoir and also on the small bits of land in the basin formed by the Volturno barrage. The ditches and channels that cut through the wood and the temporary pools of water that form and then disappear are home to semi-submerged vegetation: rushes, hooded matweed, nasturtiums and veronica. The willows dig their roots into the pebbly banks, creating islands of vegetation that fight erosion.
Common and purple osier and white willow predominate in the wetland wood along with the white poplar and common alder (in one part of the wood, the alder forms a lovely grove together with blood orange trees, hazel, common privet and hops). The outer, drier reaches have manna- ash, elm, field maple and common oaks.
The latter is a remnant of the old Piana di Venafro plain forest, where trees used to grow amid pools of water created by the branches of the river that formed a network of waterways, wells and springs. The lake and the wood are the ideal habitat for numerous water creatures, especially in winter and during the migratory seasons. Indeed, this area lies on various migratory routes. In spring, mallards and moorhens come to nest here, as do rails, coots and the great crested grebe with its ornate head plumes. Pochards, wigeons, teals, garganeys, tufted ducks and northern pintails come to spend the winter here, as do the grey heron (symbol of the protected area), purple heron, little egret, little bittern and black-winged stilt. The list of birds-of-prey includes the brown kite, buzzard, goshawk and shorteared owl.

The visit

The itinerary starts from the Visitors’ Centre with a video that explains some of the environmental characteristics of the Volturno valley. From this, you head onto the Energy and Nature Trail, which is easy to reach and not very difficult. The first stretch runs next to, on one side, a crystal-clear resurgence of the Volturno, and on the other, a shore of the Enel reservoir. A marked side trail takes you, if you wish, to a hide to watch the water creatures. This detour is recommended because of the splendid view encompassing the rugged riparian vegetation and the delightful backdrop of the Torcino mountains. The main trail then passes through a small clearing with an ‘educational pond’. After this, you head into a thick section of water-loving wood dominated by tall poplars and alders.
The undergrowth has creeper plants that wind up the trunks creating a thick web of vegetation. It is as if the glorious history of this zone is coming back – this was the Bourbons’ Royal Hunting Reserve of Venafro and Torcino – or has been left untouched by time.
If you head towards a branch of the Volturno, which winds its way through the thick bush, you come to the edge of the wood. From here, you can see the extraordinary view to the north, dominated by the wild Mainarde mountains, rising up to the cultivated fields of Piana di Venafro. This is the Molise section of the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise. To return to the start point, you need to head back into the wood through a section of wonderful old trees.
The environs Venafro is a town of pre-Roman origin with an interesting old centre. It is surrounded by old olive groves that spread out toward the upper Volturno valley, covering an area of great natural and landscape beauty that is dotted with fortified hamlets. Capriati a Volturno, a picturesque town on the slopes of Matese, is the entranceway to the Parco Regionale del Matese Campano and is near to various other WWF protected areas, such as the ones of Bosco San Silvestro, Guardiaregia- Campochiaro and the Oasi delle Abetine.

How to get there

The protected area is situated on the border between Campania and Molise, in the municipalities of Capriati al Volturno (CE) and Venafro (IS), not far from the Venafro- Isernia stretch of the SS85 road. Leave the motorway at the San Vittore exit (coming from the north) or Caianello (coming from the south), then continue for Venafro respectively on the SS6 or the SS85 road; near La Madonnella shopping Centre or near Triverno (if you are coming from Campobasso and Pescara) take the SP Piana di Venafro road and follow the signs for the Oasi Le Mortine

Visit

Le Mortine protected area has a well-equipped and well-indicated Nature Trail, a hide for watching the fauna, an educational pond, an orchard with traditional fruit trees, educational beehives and a picnic area. It is open throughout the year and visits can be organised with prior notice by contacting the Cooperativa Croco tel. 0865951009 or the WWF Isernia Section, tel.0865904613.

Useful addresses

Cooperativa Croco via Nazionale 70, Pizzone (IS) tel. 0865951009.
WWF di Isernia tel. 0865411955; visits of the protected area: tel. 0865904613.

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Adriatic coast in Puglia

2009-10-31T22:00:00.000+01:00

The Adriatic coast in the Brindisi area is a realm of Mediterranean scrubland and crystal clear water. It is also the setting for some important natural areas that cross into the Lecce province.
First, there are the Torre Guaceto and Cesine reserves, which have 20,000 different plant species, including 10 of the 25 varieties of oak. Indeed, these figures show that those reserves can truly be said to preserve the botanical heritage of the region. Halfway between these two reserves, a little to the south of Brindisi, lies a third area of environmental importance, the Cerano wood.
This, in turn, is close to another of the treasures in the area, although this time it is of a more historical and cultural nature: the Valesio (Torchiarolo) archaeological site.

Bosco di Cerano

The Cerano wood is relatively large and filled with a number of important types of tree. It lies in the Brindisi and San Pietro Vernotico municipalities. Since 2001, it has been protected as part of a special nature reserve that covers 1,158 ha of coastal forest dotted with Mediterranean scrubland and holm-oak groves. Once, trees covered this entire zone, pushing right up to the edge of the sea. However, over the centuries, human settlement led to the wood becoming ever smaller as farming became more important. After this, the farm land gave way to industrial settlements.

How to get there

Bosco di Cerano: take the SS613 Brindisi-Lecce road and at the junction near the Trullo farmstead, turn towards the coast.

Medieval Itineraries in Puglia

2009-10-29T22:17:00.000+01:00

Brindisi has traces of the presence of the Templars in the church of San Giovanni al Sepolcro (11C), built on the site of an early Christian church and known for its Templar knight portico, which today houses the Provincial Archaeology Museum.
Another important relic from the Middle Ages is the church of S. Benedetto, with its former monastery, founded in 1080. The church of S. Maria del Casale was built three centuries later in Romanesque-Gothic style, with its handsome façade in grey and pink sandstone.
Today the church is near the city airport, but in the past it would have been just outside the walls. Taking the road to Lecce south we come to Santa Maria di Cerrate, with its solitary abbey named in historical records as far back as 1113.
Its church is in pure Romanesque style with a totally plain façade, but there is also a splendid 13th-century portico on its lefthand side.

Traditional Pasta in Molise

2009-10-29T14:28:00.000+01:00

Nowadays the image people have of that Italian product par excellence, pasta, is of the industrial variety. Over the last century in fact many small, local producers have developed to such an extent that they have become industries exporting pasta all over the world. However there are still some small producers who make pasta in the traditional way for their faithful customers, once mainly locals, now joined by ranks of enthusiasts from further afield. In Molise this tradition is very much alive and there are a number of small pasta producers who still make pasta with their ancient bronze draw sheets in the time-honoured fashion. As well as the better-known shapes they also produce some traditional shapes which were in danger of being lost forever.

Biferno in Molise

2009-10-15T15:23:00.000+02:00

The Biferno river is closely associated with the Molise region. It starts at roughly 500 m above sea level near Bojano, north of the Matese massif, and opens into the Adriatic Sea between Termoli and Campomarino. In total, it travels about 85 km. Numerous rivers, valleys and ditches flow into it along the way, including the Rio and Cigno streams.
The river actually starts from four different sources: - the Riofreddo group, which rises to the surface 2.5 km east of the village of Bojano, just below 520 m above sea level, with a maximum ebb of about 1 m3/s; - the Pietrecadute group, due east of Bojano and about 400 m from the SS road to Campobasso, at 484 m above sea level, with an ebb of about 900 l/s; - the Torno group, made up of various springs and practically in Bojano, with an ebb of less than 200 l/s; - the Maiella group, which rises to the surface near the ‘Masserie Maiella’ district, at about 500 m above sea level and roughly 1 km from, with a maximum ebb of about 800 l/s.
The SS647 ‘Bifernina’ road basically follows the course of the Biferno. Heading along it, you see numerous power stations, while others can be reached by taking short detours to the left or right sides of the river. The San Massimo power station, by contrast, is located on the upper section of the river, quite close to the Campitello Matese skiing area.
Some sections of the SS647 road are scenic, with wide open views of the valley; the panoramas in the Lake Guardialfiera zone are well worth seeing. In the late 1970s, the Liscione dam was built on the Biferno, leading to the flooding of an area that included the ancient Ponte di Annibale (Hannibal’s Bridge). It is said that this bridge was used by the famous general to get his army across the river. The lake is now home to a wonderful fish population that includes carp, chub, pike, tench, crucian carp, rudd, eel and trout. Guardialfiera is the birthplace of Francesco Jovine, author of Le Terre del Sacramento (translated into English as The Estate in Abruzzi, although sometimes known by the more literal title of The Lands of the Sacrament). Once a bishop’s seat, the town is now a characteristic hamlet perched around the few remnants of the castle and an ancient cathedral dedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption.
The latter has a recently rediscovered early-Christian crypt. Guglionesi is notable both for its history and art. The two main churches here are S. Nicola and S. Maria Maggiore. Excavations in the Santa Margherita district have brought to light a very interesting necropolis. The Italian League for the Protection of Birds (LIPU) has created a protected area at Casacalenda. It covers an area once used by coalminers: a wood on a hill covering about 140 ha of notable biodiversity. Morrone del Sannio can boast the Abbey of S. Maria di Casalpiano, built in the 13th century over an earlier building that seems to have originated in the pre-Roman era. The most important monument in Petrella Tifernina is the church of S. Giorgio, which was built in 1211. It rises in the centre of the hamlet, as was typical for churches built in the Middle Ages. At Baranello, on the river, you should go to see the Corona mill, a stone building from the 1770s. The town museum is housed in the town hall (Palazzo Comunale) and displays the wide-ranging collection donated by the architect Giuseppe Barone. You can see archaeological finds, porcelain objects and paintings. Larino, Termoli and Bojano are filled with evidence of the past, much of which is already famous. Biferno, finally, gave its name to a DOC (Controlled Denomination of Origin) wine from the region and the vineyards can be seen around Campobasso. Bojano is famous for its excellent dairy products, especially appassite cheese.

Electric power

In 1926, the Biferno river drove numerous hydroelectric plants (Passo Benigno, Imporchia or Gravellina, Molino Celli, Defensa, Pescolardo di Castelpetroso, Donatelli, Riofreddo, Fornici, Ischia, Bovaro, Mulino del Duca, Precettoressa and Rocca), many of which were converted mills. In 1927, the Società Elettrica del Biferno (Biferno Electric Company) began work on the Ripalimosani plant, in Morgia del Medico. A survey of power plants in Italy carried out in 1936 recorded an amazing 14 power stations on the Biferno river. In 1948, following the extremely tough war years, the San Massimo (partially), Riofreddo, Colagrosso (a few hours a day), Biferno, Covatta, Precettoressa, Mulino del Duca and Vallecupa power stations were still in operation. Some of these, following modernisation work, are still ‘gloriously’ in operation. In short, the entire fluvial basin could be seen as an industrial archaeology site or even a hydrolectric power archaeological site.

Irrigation and drinking water

Naturally, the water from the Biferno has also been used for drinking. In 1928, the Provveditorato alle Opere Pubbliche per gli Abruzzi e Molise (ministry overseeing public works in Abruzzo and Molise) created an ambitious and interesting plan to provide all of the municipalities, on the left and right sides of the river from the source to the sea, with water. In 1932, the engineers Francesco and Ernesto Ruffolo, a father and son team, came up with the idea of ‘robbing’ the water, via a canal, to direct it to Naples. Over the following years, the engineer Nicola Zaccardi from Campobasso studied the ‘Problem of Water in Molise’, suggesting the use of various springs as a solution. About 25 years ago, the Liscione reservoir was built, thus creating the most important irrigation dam in the zone.

Puglia: sweet traditions of taralli and mostaccioli

2009-10-11T22:52:00.000+02:00

In the panorama of Italian gastronomy Puglia has always been a bridge to the East, first in ancient times when it was colonised by the Greeks, then as the terminus of the Roman Via Appia, and later as the launching point for the Crusades, with their attendant comings and goings in a melting pot of dozens of races and cultures. This history forms the background to the essential ingredients of Puglia's cuisine: wheat, oil and the vine, with the addition of almonds, figs, honey and ricotta cheese in sweet-making.

Puglia's sweetmeat tradition has its roots in the peasant culture of the ‘masserie’, or traditional farmhouses, changing with the seasons and marked by religious festivals. In the towns the simple country recipes were ‘gentrified’ by the addition of more sophisticated ingredients and spices. However the region's most emblematic product, the tarallo, could hardly be simpler. Whether sweet or savoury, everyday fare or festive delicacy, it is to be found on every table in Puglia.

Taralli are always accompanied by a glass of wine, the third element in the local triptych of wheat, oil and the vine. In the savoury version the pastry for this small, ring-shaped biscuits is made from soft wheat flour, oil, white wine and, optionally, sesame and fennel seeds. The sweet variety are made from eggs and sugar, which are also essential for their sweet glaze topping.

Sweet taralli are traditionally made for Easter, but there is also a winter version, made on 13 December in honour of St Lucy. Cartellate are traditional Christmas sweets, delicious puff pastries made from durum wheat and wine and then baked in the oven or fried in olive oil.

Another popular sweet found all over Puglia are mostaccioli, biscuits covered in dark chocolate and seasoned with orange peel. Yet another speciality are almond paste cakes; these vary in colour and shape according to which part of the region they come from.

Paulilatino and the Moon well

2009-10-10T14:35:00.000+02:00

The Moon well

Used as a place dedicated to the cult of the Moon and water, the well of Saint Cristina, which dates from the 11th century B.C. and takes its name from a small church nearby, is the most representative of the forty present in Sardinia. The well consists of a central stairway covered by a tiered ceiling that creates an extraordinary effect by reproducing a sort of upside-down staircase. The stairway leads to the omphalos, which is the chamber where the water collects. It seems that the god of the nuragic populations lived in the water and special purification ceremonies were held here. The cover of the well, of the type known as a tholos, is a false dome with a hole at the top. The particular notoriety of this monument derives from the refined techniques used by the nuragic builders 3000 years ago, the precise cuts and the joints between the large basaltic stones. Every eighteen and a half years, that is every lunar year, when the Moon is at its maximum declination, the moonlight reflects directly into the water of the well. The optical effect on this particular day does not occur by chance: the stairway that mirrors the steps leading down to the well seems to turn upside down and any person walking down the steps seems almost to be walking up to the sky. But this is not all: the well was positioned in such a way that the Sun would illuminate the stairway and hit the water during the equinoxes.

The area

Paulilatino lies in the southern part of the vast basaltic plateau of Abbasanta, bordered on the north by Campeda and to the west by Montiferru and Planaria, in the province of Oristano. Rich in water, the area has a charming beauty, harsh but sweet at the same time, with wild ridges of basaltic outcrops and luxuriant vegetation consisting of wild olive and oak trees and Mediterranean maquis. The village still preserves, in part, the typical features of the towns and villages of inland Sardinia, with low houses made of black basalt that take on an almost fairy-tale appearance. Next to the entrances you can still find the standing blocks that were used for mounting the horses and the hitching rings for tying up the animals.

Useful information

Town Hall viale della Libertà 33 tel. 078555438, 078555686, 078555623
Coop Archeotour Paulilatino (guide) comunepa@tiscalinet.it archeotour@tiscalinet.it

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Deepest Sardinia and the cinema

2009-10-06T14:30:00.000+02:00

The land of the Barbagia, around Mt Gennargentu, is the ancient, intimate heart of the island. This is the Sardinia described in Grazia Deledda’s books, with its archaic rites transformed into folklore, to its family struggles that are handed down through the generations. Some have laughed, like Mario Mattoli in 1952 in his “Vendetta… sarda” with Walter Chiari, reconstructing a cardboard Sardinia at Cinecittà. The Renaissance of Sardinian cinema starts with Vittorio De Seta, who shot “Bandits of Orgosolo” in 1961.
With an astringent, essential style, almost like a documentary, the director traces life in a rural world with precise rules and unchanging codes of behaviour.

The shepherds in the film are all amateur actors. After this first step the island has been described by other film makers. In 1966 a wonderful Ugo Tognazzi stars in a battle of honour between families (the feud) in “A Question of Honour” by Luigi Zampa. Another film-reality was “The Tough and the Mighty”, shot in 1969 by Carlo Lizzani in the Sardinian countryside with the singer Don Backy in the lead role. In a dry, neorealist tone the director attempts to reconstruct the story of the seperatist bandits.
But then there was a pause and over thirty years went by before a new generation of directors rediscovered this part of Sardinia.
One is Giovanni Columbu who set his “Arcipelaghi” (2001) in Ovodda with the story of a fourteen year old lad accused of murdering his brother. Or “SOS Laribiancos-I Dimenticati” (1999) by Piero Livi, hingeing on the events in a family feud. In 2003 Salvatore Dereu, who was born in Dorgali, made his cinema debut with “Three-Step Dance”, filmed in Sardinian and set in the heart of the Gennargentu. In the same year Piero Sanna directed “La destinazione”, the story of a carabiniere (policeman) from Emilia who is posted to the Barbagia.

Taloro and Cucchinadorza in Sardinia

2009-10-02T14:27:00.000+02:00

The Taloro watercourse, the main tributary of the Tirso, starts on Mt Fumai (1,315 m) and runs through age-old woods in the Barbagia, a land of shepherds and ancient traditions. After feeding the Gusana, Cucchinadorza and Benzone reservoirs, it flows into Lake Omodeo, marking the ends of its 60 km journey.
he itineraries described below, which can be down on foot, on horseback or even in a canoe, are all around Lake Cucchinadorza, making it possible to see and admire the wonderful scenery of this wild zone.
The surrounding landscape, set in a splendid natural context, is covered in thick Mediterranean scrubland that consists mainly of wild olive, cork, wild pear and durmast oak and some large pristine woods with holm oak, oleander and alder trees. There are also a few other plants to be seen, such as juniper and hawthorn. The area is home to numerous birds, including Bonelli’s eagle, the rare Sardinian goshawk and the Sardinian partridge as well as various herons, ducks and kites.
You might also see a buzzard soaring above the verdant landscape where wild boars and foxes shelter. These are not the only mammals though, with the pine marten, wild rabbit, Sardinian hare, hedgehog, weasel and the recently reintroduced fallow deer also living in the area.

Nature and history: the age-old charm of Teti

The village of Teti has a long history linked to the finds made in 1865 in the nuraghic village of Abini and the huts of S’Urbale. There are no certain records telling of the founding of the town: the most convincing theory says the name comes from the plant Smilax aspera, which is known in the local dialect as titione and is spread across the territory.
In the 19th century, the village became relatively well-known because of its location, on the mountains, the presence of various trees, such as holm oaks and cork trees, and the roughly 200 springs and 9 brooks that flowed into the Taloro and Tirso rivers. The woods were home to deer, fallow deer, foxes, hares and a whole range of birds. Today, Teti is a village with 839 inhabitants and an economy based on sheep-farming. An archaeology museum was opened in 1990 and displays the various bronze finds from Abini. Here, aside from the ceramic pieces, you can see the amazing reconstruction of a hut from the nuraghic village of S’Urbale. The Teti territory has a genuine wealth of elements of natural interest, both in terms of the plants and the animals that live there. The predominant vegetation is what could be termed ‘typical hill vegetation’ because of the relatively cold temperatures in winter and the long, quite dry summer.
The most common trees are the holm oak, cork tree and pubescent oak, although the chestnut also deserves a mention. There are also the typical bushes of the Mediterranean scrubland: the strawberry tree, mock privet, mastic, cistus, broom and so on. You can also see many of the endemic flowers that are also found in other parts of the island: Ornithogalum biflorum, Vinca sardoa, Crocus minimune, numerous vibrantly coloured orchids and so on. In terms of animals, the key players are the fox, wild boar and weasel, while the list of birds includes birds-of-prey like the golden eagle, kestrel, goshawk and buzzard. The Cucchinadorza reservoir is also rich in animal life. It lies about 9 km from the village on the SP (provincial) road to Olzai and it is the site of a hydroelectric power station.
The strategic position of the reservoir makes it look practically natural and thus increases its allure. The natural habitat here is thick wood, which favours the growth of mushrooms and makes this a popular location among people who love mushrooms and, especially, love searching for them. For the locals, mushrooms represent an important resource and, as such, have become an integral part of the local cuisine. The Teti territory is home to Abini, a nuraghe era sanctuary (8/7C BC). Much of the ruins are still underground in the valley formed by the river that runs into the Tirso valley. The first finds were made in 1865, when some shepherds, driven by recurring dreams, started to dig at Abini. They uncovered a variety of objects. The village has a surface area of 20,000 m2 and follows a stretch of land quite close to the river. It consists of 26 huts and a ‘fenced section for meetings’ that also has a sacred well. You can see some carefully made trachyte quoins (support structures) in the meeting area. The first real excavation of the archaeology site was carried out in 1930 by Taramelli, who found a notable amount of excellently made and well conserved nuraghic bronze.
This material is now on display in the archaeology museum in Cagliari. One of the most important events in the village is the Festa di Sant’Antonio (Feast of St Anthony), held on 15, 16 and 17 January. Originally, this started with prayers and the benediction of the fire, around which the festivities began. The following day, people would go to a special mass for the saint and everyone would take home a piece of blessed charcoal. These days, the lighting and blessing of the fire, which happens in the late afternoon, is followed by tasting of local products, dancing and other entertainment. A traditional cake, Su Bufulittu, is also prepared for the occasion.

THE TRAILS

In the heart of mountainous Sardinia, in a zone of valleys with numerous springs along the foot of the western slope of Gennargentu, Enel has created, in agreement with the Gavoi, Ollolai, Olzai, Ovodda, Teti and Tiana municipalities, some lovely nature trails in the area around the Taloro plant. The trails are dotted with wooden information panels that have been created to blend in to the surrounds and are never far from the plant. These panels make it possible for visitors to learn more about the trails as well as about how the Taloro hydroelectric power station works. In addition, Enel and various local bodies organise a range of sports events that are held along the shores of Lake Cucchinadorza.
Two of these events are a minimarathon and a horseback ride. The various trails make it possible to reach and then admire various places of particular natural and industrial importance. In a sense, these trails also have a cultural element in that they also make it possible to learn more about the environment and local history.

How to get there

Follow the SS131 road from Cagliari towards Nuoro and branch right at the junction at Ottana, towards Olzai. At the beginning of the village, turn right and follow the road towards Teti, Austis and Tiana. After about ten kilometres the road starts to run along the southern shore of Lake Cucchinadorza; some dirt roads run along the shores of the lake.

Useful addresses

Comune di Gavoi tel. 078453120.
Comune di Ollolai tel. 078451051.
Comune di Olzai tel. 078455001.
Comune di Ovodda tel. 078454023.
Comune di Teti tel. 078468023.
Comune di Tiana tel. 078469089.

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Peace and spirituality in Logudoro

2009-09-30T14:08:00.000+02:00

The Abbey of S. Pietro di Sorres, in Logudoro, in the province of Sassari, is an imposing example of Romanesque architecture in an original blend of island landscape and Tuscan culture. It was founded during the 11th century on an isolated hill and between 1170 and 1190 construction was continued and the buildings completed, making it into a cathedral and diocese headquarters.
The religious centre had seen a succession of roughly 40 bishops who worked to strengthen the direct relationship with Rome before halfway through the 14th century when it was abandoned by the bishops thanks to an epidemic of the plague and a general crisis.
From the 16th century onwards for three centuries the whole structure languished in ruins, used as a sheepfold and campsite by the local shepherds.
The abbey rose phoenix-like from ashes in 1950, when the Benedictine Abbey of S. Giovanni di Parma started to build a new monastery on the ruins. In 1955, when rebuilding was completed, the Benedictines returned to the island after a five hundred year absence. In 1976 the community was granted the title of abbey and had already started an intense round of studies, spiritual assistance and theological courses. Following the Benedictine rule of “pray, read and work”, the monks at S. Pietro di Sorres started an old book restoration workshop in 1971, together with a leather workshop and sales outlet. The over 27,000 books in the library are available for public consultation during opening hours.
The monastery has 54 rooms to accomodate individuals and groups who want to share the monks’ spiritual life for a few days.
The splendid basilica thoroughly deserves a visit, even if it has to be a brief one, with its two-tone façade in the Pisan Romanesque tradition. The elgant interior has a central nave and two side aisles and pillars with two-colour fillets.
It houses, among other things, fragments of the original altar, a Gothic pulpit and a wooden statue of the Madonna with Child in the Spanish style.

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Lake Coghinas in Sardinia

2009-09-28T14:10:00.001+02:00

About 15 km downstream from Lake Casteldoria, the water from the Coghinas river flows into Lake Coghinas, feeding one of the largest basins in Sardinia. The dam was originally built in the 1920s to produce hydroelectric power, but such is its capacity that it can also cater for the farming and grazing needs of the surrounding areas as well as the water needs of the various, growing towns that are located near to the river. The Tula and Erula territories also play an important role in producing electricity from wind power: on 3 April 2004, the new Sa Turrina Manna wind farm was opened. The landscape, the pre-existing activities and the natural context were all key factors in the creation of this plant. As such, water and wind come together in the Montacuto area to provide power generated using renewable sources (namely, sun and water). In total, enough electricity is produced for about 40,000 families.

Lake Coghinas

Lake Coghinas has a capacity of 254 million m3 of water. It was created by the barrage built across the Muzzone gap on the Coghinas river and now lies in both the Tula and Erula municipalities. The presence of these industrial plants does not, though, diminish the natural beauty of this lovely land where lush vegetation runs along the riverbanks and the slopes around the lake are covered with super cork tree groves that provide shelter and a stopover point for numerous migratory birds. The Coghinas river is the largest watercourse in northern Sardinia and it is fed by a vast rain-collecting basin that receives the water which seeps off the Mt Limbara massif.
The origins of the name are also interesting: the hot springs, which rise to the surface on the Casteldoria plateau, gave the river its Latin name, Thermus; in a way, this name has been maintained in the Sardinian language, since coghina means kitchen. In addition, since the early 1990s, Lake Coghinas has become a popular spot for rowing and is also the site of the traditional Sardinian championships in this discipline.

Sa Turrina Manna

The very modern wind farm in the Tula and Erula municipalities is one of the latest achievements in Enel’s ongoing quest to use sustainable sources to produce electricity. It has 28 wind turbines. In total, these are capable of producing about 24 MW, which translates into enough power for about 20,000 families. It also means that 33,000 tons of carbon dioxide is not released into the atmosphere every year. The plant was also created with great care for the surrounding environment: the wind turbines were placed on the firebreak section of the forest area using already existing tracks, paths and forestry roads.
The material that was initially excavated for the foundations was then re-used to ensure the typical shades and colours of the area remained. In addition, tall trees that are native to the area were planted. Access to the wind farm, both from Tula and Erula, was improved, thus making it easier to get around. In the sections of greatest natural interest, observation hides were built. The wind farm overlooks the hydroelectric basin on the Coghinas.

How to get there

Lake Coghinas is linked to Tempio Pausania (25 km) by the SS392 road; it is also touched by the SS597 Sassari-Olbia, along which, just a short distance from Oschiri, the road branches off for Tula; go through the village and after another 5 km, just after a bridge, you will see on the right a road, unpaved but in excellent condition, that leads to the sailing centre on the edge of the lake.

Useful addresses
Municipio di Tula
tel. 0797189000.

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Sardinian Knife Museum in Sardinia

2009-09-28T14:10:00.000+02:00

In Arbus the craftsman Paolo Pusceddu, a master at producing knives according to the dictates of tradition, has opened a after years of hard work. The museum was inaugurated in 1996, in an old house that he had renovated next to his workshop. Here he has amassed a collection of finds that are the result of a life dedicated to research and contacts in this field.

Antique knives, some from the 17th century, through to some significant examples of contemporary production. Some can be considered works of art. In one room an old-fashioned blacksmith’s workshop has been reconstructured, with all the correct tools, illustrating this ancient art. There is a 19th-century bellows and other eqipment from the same period.

A curiosity: the biggest knife in the world, duly recorded by the Guinness book of records. It is 3 m long and weighs over 80 kilos.

Vineyards to the north, the Vermentino kingdom

2009-09-26T14:10:00.000+02:00

In the northern part of the island of Sardinia vineyards cover much of the territory, in some cases coming very close to the sea. In the north west the landscape is that of the Nurra area and its lands reclaimed from the sea through draining projects; Anglona and Lugodoro are in the centre and moving east you come to Gallura. The Vermentino di Gallura DOCG was awarded in 1996 to a white which is quite rightly the toast of Sassari wine making. The DOCG production area is limited to 21 parishes in the province of Sassari, with Santa Teresa Gallura as the most important centre, with a further two parishes in the Nuoro province. The wine must be made with at least 95% of Vermentino grapes.
It is a strawcoloured white with slight green dapples; its subtle, delicate, intense aroma bears a hint of apples and meadow flowers. It has an elegant taste, with a slightly bitter aftertaste. It is at its superlative best when drunk with lobster, although it is generally very palatable with hors d’oeuvres, delicately-flavoured pasta and rice dishes and fish courses. Beyond the Vermentino DOCG area, the recent DOC Alghero is growing nicely in terms of quality. Apart from whites based on Vermentino and other strains this area also produces sparkling wines and reds based on Sangiovese, Cagnulari and Cabernet.
Twenty-two parishes around Sassari, including Castelsardo and Tempio Pausania are in the Colli del Limbara IGT. The picture is rounded off by the IGT Nurra area, the Moscato DOC Sorso-Sennori area and the Romangia IGT. Inland to the south of Tempio Pausania, on the road that links Olbia to Ozieri, is Sardinia’s regional winery, in Berchidda.
This is probably a unique structure, an out and out museum to wine, complete with an experimental vineyard with the island’s native strains of grapes. The exhibition space is ample to host shows and meetings. The guide to local production is a digital sommelier, who uses an innovative approach to teaching and imparting information to prepare visitors for their tasting.

CHEESE and HONEY in SARDINIA

Herding and cheesemaking are the most typical of the island’s traditional activities; lately experiments have been attempted alongside the old tried and tested ways. Pecorino Sardo PDO is the most famous cheese in Sardinia and is produced all over the island. Made in two versions, pecorino sardo dolce and pecorino sardo maturo, it has a smooth, thin crust while the cheese itself is smooth, compact and white in colour.
The flavour is understandably stronger in the cheeses that have been seasoned longest. This cheese, and Sardinian pecorino cheeses in general, should always be accompanied by the island’s delicious honey.
Orange blossom honey is soft and acid-flavoured, while the arbutus berry variety is strongly-flavoured and bitter, thyme is aromatic and penetrating, heather is strong and red-tinged, cistus is saline. These and other Mediterranean plants are plundered by the bees to bring you the perfect foil for cheese and an ideal addition to numerous enjoyable experiments.

Casteldoria in Sardinia

2009-09-24T14:11:00.000+02:00

The Coghinas river marks the western border of the Gallura and it is one of the main watercourses in northern Sardinia. Between Lake Coghinas and the sea, this river passes through a nearly untouched area that is sometimes dry and arid, but also lush and verdant in parts. Above all, it is an oasis of peace and silence.

The itinerary that explores this corner of Sardinia starts in Castelsardo, one of the most beautiful hamlets on the island. It sits on a rocky headland, standing sheer over the sea, to the west of the mouth of the Coghinas river. The layout is definitely medieval with evident Ligurian aspects in the tight web of narrow streets behind the town walls, which is unsurprising since it was founded by the Doria family of Genoa in 1102.

The numerous monuments from varying periods are an indication of the various conquerors of the settlement – Genoa, Catalonia, Piedmont. All these ‘occupiers’ also left traces that can be found in the language and trades. Even the name, now linked to the final conqueror, has changed from Castelgenovese to Castellaragonese and then to Castelsardo.

The old centre, known locally as casteddu, is perched on the rock and appears rather unexpectedly at the end of a long climb out of the new districts: after a steep street with arches and linked balconies, you come to the most panoramic spot, where you also find the castle housing the museum of Mediterranean weaving.

After the castle, you head down to the seat of the Town Hall, with a Gothic portico, and the Franciscan church of S. Maria delle Grazie, with the adjacent convent. The church houses the crucifix of Criltu Nieddu (Black Christ), which is one of the oldest in Sardinia. If you continue down, you come to the 16th-century Cathedral of San Antonio Abate, located in the shadow of an Aragonese bell-tower with a majolica dome. The cathedral houses various works by the Maestro di Castelsardo, an important 15th-century Sardinian artist.

Another town that is well worth seeing is Sèdini, lying between two hills, namely Maglina and LuPadru. The dates of the first settlement on this site remain a mystery, but it was probably already inhabited in the Stone Age, especially since there are many caves that offer good shelter. The most beautiful cave is on Lu Padru: inside, there are chambers that rise to 10 m-high, with spectacular stalactites and stalagmites.

Aside from the Lu Padri nuraghe, you should see the various rural churches. Perhaps the most beautiful of these is the ruins of S. Nicola di Silanis, a Benedictine building made of white volcanic rock and clearly influenced by Lombard and Tuscan ideas. It was built in the second decade of the 12th century with a basilical plan.

It had a nave and two aisles with vaults – this was a unique feature on the island and, perhaps, it was too bold an attempt since the church had to be abandoned in the 15th century as it was unstable. San Pancrazio di Nursis was probably a centre for communal life built on the ruins of an ancient monastery. It seems that the structure was used as a communal room with a fire and it then became a church in the 11th or 12th century.

The Parish church is dedicated to St Andrew, the patron saint of Sèdini. THE ITINERARY Head east out of Castelsardo on the SS134 road and, after crossing the SS200 road, you pass in front of the Roccia dell’Elefante (elephant rock), a giant block of trachyte that resembles an elephant with its trunk arched. Parts of the rock have been hollowed out to create some domus de janas, which are Stone Age burial niches. Note, on the right hollow, the low relief of two pairs of opposing bull horns. Not far away, along the SS200 road, lies the Paddaggiu (or Su Tesoru) nuraghe. Continue along the SS134 road to Sèdini, where there is a limestone mass in which many large domus de janas have been cut. These were originally tombs, but where later used as prisons (19/20C) and then as houses. Next, head on towards Bulzi. In the centre of this little town, on a dirt road that runs next to the sports field, you come to the suggestive ruins of S. Nicola (1.5 km). A further 4 km and you come to a short detour, on an unpaved road, that leads left to the church of S. Pietro di Simbranos (or ‘delle Immagini’).

This simple building with a single aisle that leads into the apse was built in two phases in the 12th and 13th centuries. Note the particularly beautiful two-coloured façade, with three levels of arches decorated by alternating layers of light and dark ashlar. After 2 km the SS134 road joins the SS127 road, which you head left on towards Perfugas. After passing this small village, head left onto the road to Valledoria. For a section, this road runs parallel to an especially beautiful part of the Coghinas river lined with lush vegetation and quite a few nuraghe. Various trails lead down to the river, which is soon joined by the Giobaduras river and then washes against the ruins of a Roman bridge (near Pont’Ezzi, meaning ‘old bridge’).

If you take a road to the right, you get to the district of Scopaggiu, where you can follow a trail that takes you down to the shores of Lake Casteldoria. This is actually an artificial lake that was created in 1926 to provide water for hydroelectricity and irrigation. The numerous fish here make this a favoured destination for wading birds. After returning to the road to Valledoria, you need to continue north. You can see the outline of Mt Ruiu, a pinkish granite mass on the other side of the lake. The summit is formed by two rather unusual needles that are locally called Su Padre and Sa Monza because, at sunset, the silhouettes against the glowing sky look somewhat like a friar wearing a hood and a monk. At this stage, you head away from the lake to reach Santa Maria Coghinas. Here, a short detour to the right takes you to the Casteldoria gullies. These are cut into the pinkish granite rock and are overlooked by the tower of the Doria castle (12C).

The road ends at the Casteldoria spa, built on the site of a hot spring (160°F) that pours its water (rich in bromide) into the Coghinas. The spa is set in a large park with a nature trail. Not far from here is the Casteldoria hydroelectric plant. This power station began operating in 1963. It is fed by a 45 m penstock that drives a 5,000 kW turbine/alternator capable of producing 10 million kWh a year, meaning enough power for about 3,000 families.

THE TRAILS

In collaboration with the Badesi, Santa Maria Coghinas and Viddalba municipalities, Enel has identified and created various Energy and Nature Trails around the Casteldoria hydroelectric power station. These trails, possible either on foot or bicycle, make it possible to explore splendid natural and historical places. The start is near the Doria castle, in an area of deep red rock on top of a hill that rises to 228 m above sea level. From there, you head to the spa and then continue along the Coghinas river to the mouth.

If you head along the right bank, you will pass the small Romanesque churches of S. Giovanni, which is in excellent condition, and S. Maria delle Grazie, which still has its Gothic façade (in line with this church, a Roman bridge crosses the river). If you head along the left bank, you go along a trail that ends at Villadoria. The trails cross through an area of lush Mediterranean scrubland that is filled with wild olives, cork trees and other typical plants, such as the mastic tree, alaternus, myrtle, cistus and broom. As you near the sea, the scrubland becomes sparser, giving way to large sand dunes. Various mammals live in the area, including the wild boar, Sardinian fox, porcupine, weasel, pine marten and wild cat. There are also many birds that sometimes find shelter in the scrubland or on the dunes, including the heron, Sardinian partridge and osprey. This is also an ideal habitat for turtles and mullet.

How to get there
From Tempio Pausania on the SS127 road that passes through the Coghinas valley, and then the SS134 that leads to Castelsardo. From Sassari you can go directly to Castelsardo on the SS200 road.

Useful addresses
Provoncial Body for Tourist in Sassari viale Caprera 36, Sassari tel. 079299544.

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