The Pierre Loti Café, named after the French novelist, naval officer and Turkophile, is famous for its spectacular views over the Golden Horn. Located in Eyüp, about 6 kilometers from the Galata Bridge in Eminönü, it is not exactly on the typical tourist path. So, if you’re in Istanbul for only a few days, you may want to think twice about going there for a tea. But if you’re not pressed for time, the commanding views are well worth the small ‘detour’.

Pierre Loti Café (Piyer Loti Kahvesi)
Location
Gümüşsuyu Karyağdı Sokak, Eyüp
on Map with My Favorite Cafés and Pubs in the Historical Part of Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 581 26 96
Open
Daily from 08:00 till midnight.
Credit cards are NOT accepted.

The Pierre Loti Café Itself

Terrace of the Pierre Loti Café

The Pierre Loti cafe is a rather modest teahouse that offers a variety of non-alcoholic drinks as well as basic snacks. It’s the location and the spectacular views over the Golden Horn that make this place worthwhile. Since the cafe is dedicated to Pierre Loti (see below), the furniture and the waiter’s clothes refer to the end of the 19th century.

How to Get To the Pierre Loti Café?

The cable car to the Pierre Lotti Café.

Any taxi driver will be glad to drive you all the way to the Pierre Loti cafe, but there really is no need for that. On the contrary actually. Just ask the taxi driver to take you to the Eyüp mosque, or alternatively take bus 39, 55T or 99A and get off close to the mosque.

From there you have two options to make your way to the teahouse on the hilltop. You can either climb your way up through the picturesque cemetery or take the funicular which is signposted from the mosque. I suggest taking the last option to reach the Pierre Loti cafe, and afterwards descend by taking the path between the (mostly Ottoman) tombstones.

Pierre Loti in a Nutshell

You may wonder why there is a teahouse in Istanbul in dedicated to a French naval officer and novelist. Well, the legend has it that during his stay in Istanbul in 1876, Pierre Loti gazed from this exact location over the Golden Horn in search of inspiration for his literary masterpiece Aziyadé.

Aziyadé is semi-autobiographical and tells the story of Loti’s illicit love affair with an 18 year old harem girl named Aziyadé. She was his greatest love, proof of which the golden ring holding her name that he wore for the rest of his life.

For more pictures, check out Istanbul Cafe Picture Gallery at Istanbul Trails Photos.

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Almost on a daily basis I get emails from people about to take a cruise liner to Istanbul. Trying to plan their trip, they have questions like “Where is the cruise port in Istanbul?”, “How far is it from the cruise ship pier in Istanbul to Sultanahmet?” or “What are the transportation options from the cruise ship dock to the main sightseeing spots?” In this post I’ll try to answer these very common questions, and much more.

Where Is the Istanbul Cruise Ship Dock Located?

Location of the cruise ship dock.

Cruise ships dock at the passenger terminal (Yolcu Salonu) in Karaköy. And as a passenger, you couldn’t have dreamt of a more central location to set foot on Istanbul soil. Karaköy is loacted exactly where the Golden Horn flows into the Bosphorus. It is centrally located because it takes about as much time to travel over the Galata Bridge to Eminönü and Sultanahmet (the historical part of Istanbul) as it would take you to reach Taksim (the modern part of Istanbul).

In case Istanbul is the end or start of your international cruise, a taxi between Karaköy and the Atatürk International Airport would set you back for about TL 30 during the daytime.

Do I Need a Visa to Leave the Ship?

Foreigners who arrive in Turkey by cruise liner and sleep on the ship are allowed to enter Turkey without a visa for a maximum period of 72 hours, with the permission given by the local security authorities as soon as you set foot ashore. If you stay longer or stay in Istanbul (or Turkey for that matter) before or after your cruise, you are obliged to obtain a visa.

How To Reach the Various Sightseeing Spots?

• Eminönü – to reach Eminönü, home to the Spice Bazaar, just make a left once leave the passenger terminal (Yolcu Salonu), walk along the boardwalk until you reach the Galata Bridge, and cross it. It shouldn’t be more than a 10 minute stroll. Although Istanbul is among the safest world cities, after sundown and certainly when not accompanied by a man, play safe and take a taxi or the tramway (see below).
• Sultanahmet – you can still walk to Sultanahmet. I would recommend it if you’re in relatively good shape and are not pressed for time. Just cross the Galata Bridge, make a left at the end, cross the pedestrian bridge about 200 meters further and follow the tram rails up the fairly steep hill until you reach Sultanahmet.
  Alternatively, you can walk to the tram stop in Karaköy by making a left once you leave the passenger terminal (Yolcu Salonu) and walk along the boardwalk until you reach the Galata Bridge. Look for a place that says jeton gişesi to buy a TL 1,5 token, and board the tram in the direction of Zeytinburnu. The first stop is Eminönü, the second is Sirkeci Station, the third is Gülhane (Park) and the next one is Sultanahmet. This ride shouldn’t take longer than 5 to 7 minutes.
  A taxi ride, assuming the taxi driver is not hustling you, will cost around TL 7. How long it will take you to get there of course depends on traffic (jams).
• Taksim – again a few options are available. Walking is one of them, but I don’t recommend it. Climbing the steep hill is not only time consuming, it will definately make you sweat in summertime. You can take a taxi, which will set you back for about TL 5. Alternatively you can walk to the Galata Bridge and take either the tramway to Kabataş (the final stop) and connect to Taksim Square via the funicular. Another option is to take Tünel, and find yourself at the end of İstiklal Caddesi, ideal if you want to visit the Galata Tower.
• Princes’ Islands or Asia – if you can’t get enough of sailing and are in for a trip to either the Princes’ Islands or the Asian shore of Istanbul, then take the tramway to Kabataş and use the (quick) ferries or sea buses to reach your destination.

Any Other Questions You May Have

Upon docking in Istanbul, there will be some kind of official welcoming party waiting for you. These people are there to facilitate your stay in Istanbul. You can address them with any questions that may spring to your mind. For example, if you plan to buy some valuables (leather, electronic goods, etc.) you can get a VAT refund. They will tell you what paper to obtain while purchasing your goods, and how to get the tax paid back to you prior to your departure.

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Istanbul is surrounded and divided by water. Because of this you’ll see a bustling activity of floating devices on the Bosphorus, the Sea of Marmara and in the Golden Horn. A whole array of water-borne craft, ranging from privately owned (fishing) boats, over regular ferries (vapur) to a fleet of high-speed catamaran sea buses (deniz otobüsü).

İDO, Istanbul’s Fast Ferry and Sea Bus Company, is the market leader and offers visitors and locals alike probably the most relaxing and quickest way of transportation available in Istanbul. Whether you want to go up and/or down the Bosphorus, travel between the European and Asian shores, or make a short trip to the Princes’ Islands, they have a suitable and cheap solution for all of this.

Destination, Schedule and Ticketing Differences

İDO operates on inner-city and inter-city lines. Inter-city lines head for places such as the Marmara Islands, Bursa or Bandırma, which are all located outside of Istanbul. For these destinations you need to make (online) reservations, preferably a few hours or a day ahead.

But in this article we’ll focus on the inner-city lines, since that is what 99,9% of the tourists need during their stay in Istanbul. To avoid any confusion, the Marmara Islands mentioned earlier are NOT the same at the Princes’ Islands. If you want to visit Büyükada, you are heading for the Princes’ Islands, and they luckily are inner-city.

For inner-city lines you don’t need to make reservations. To get on board, you can either buy a token (jeton) or ticket (bilet) from the booth (gişe) at the pier, or use your akbil. The only exception is the Scenic Bosphorus Tour (by Night), for which you can’t use your akbil and need to pay cash to obtain a ticket.

High-speed ferry or sea bus.

Each destination and every type of boat has its own schedule and dock (see below). Moreover, in wintertime (mid September to mid June) and summertime (mid June to mid September) different timetables apply. Timetable booklets are freely available in Turkish and English at all ferry terminals or online on the excellent İDO website.

Most of the typical tourist destinations are reachable by both type of boats. It’s up to you to decide which craft to use, based on your personal preference. Let me list the pros and consof the two ferry types.

Conventional Ferries

Conventional ferry at sea.

The principal ferry dock on the European side is undoubtedly Eminönü. There are four piers with the destinations clearly written outside, above the boarding hall: Bosphorus (Boğaz), Golden Horn (Haliç), Kadıköy and Üsküdar. Another important dock is located in Kabataş, where you can take a ferry to the Princes’ Islands.

On the Asian side, the main piers are located in Kadıköy (to Beşiktaş, Eminönü, Karaköy and the Princes’ Islands) and in Üsküdar (towards Beşiktaş, Eminönü and Kabataş).

• Pro:
  - boats come and go frequently, on average every 20 minutes
  - you can sit inside or outside on the deck and enjoy a tea & snacks
  - fares are cheap, between TL 1,5 and TL 3 p.p. (Bosphorus tour TL 20)
• Con:
  - they are much slower than the sea buses

Fast Ferries or Sea Buses

Interior of a high-speed sea bus.

The interior of the high-speed catamaran ferries or sea buses resemble aircraft cabins, with long rows of comfortable seats and air-conditioning. The main docks are Bostancı and Kadıköy on the Asian side, and Kabataş, Yenikapı and Bakırköy on the European side. As a tourist, chances are you’ll only use this ferry type to reach the Princes’ Islands from the Kabataş pier.

• Pro:
  - much quicker than the conventional ferries
  - more comfortable than the conventional ferries
• Con:
  - they are more expensive: TL 4 to 6
  - there are only a few departures per day, mostly during commuter hours
  - you can’t sit outside on the deck
  - they are more sensitive to bad weather conditions

One last but important note: smoking is prohibited on all inner-city ferries, even outside on the deck!

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With most Istanbul sightseeing spots only open from 09:00 till 17:00, you of course want to make most of the day and not waste any time by having a timely lunch. Luckily, eating on the street is very much a part of local life. You can’t walk from corner to corner on a street, cross a bridge, enter a square or park without coming across one or more snack shops, street stalls (büfe) or street vendors. Most of the snacks on display are delicious, cheap and innocent. But there are a few you may want to stay clear of to avoid the Sultan’s revenge (diarrhea).

Street Vendors

Street vendors are omnipresent on Istanbul’s street. They display their goods in a variety of ways, going from a plain upside down box used as a table to a more professional glass-fronted push-car. Here’s a sample of what they have to offer.

• 

  Street vendor selling simit and açma.

  Simit – A crisp, ring-shaped, savory roll covered with sesame seeds. Delicious when fresh and preferably washed down with ayran (salty liquid yoghurt).

• Açma – This doughnut lookalike is ring-shaped just like the simit, but doesn’t have a crust. It’s soft and oilier, hence less dry.
• Poğaça – A flaky, savory pastry. They come in different versions: plain (sade) or stuffed with pieces of cheese (peynirli), mince (kıymalı) or olives (zeytinli).
• Mısır – During the summer, you can find street sellers offering freshly boiled or grilled corn (mısır) on the cob. Unless you want it generously sprinkled with salt, make sure to tell the seller in time to go easy on it.
• Kestane – Street vendors selling corn in the summer, mostly shift to roasted chestnuts in winter time.
• Su – Water. With temperatures well above 30 C all summer long, you can’t go long without it. It’s perfectly safe to drink the bottles they offer, as long as you make sure the cap has never been opened before.

Street Stalls (Büfe)

Near busy public transportation hubs or in popular (tourist) areas, you’ll find plenty of small kiosks on street corners. These büfes typically sell cigarettes, phone-cards and non-alcoholic cold drinks in cans or small bottles, but most of them also sell inexpensive, tasteful thin roasted sandwiches (tost) and hot dogs (sosili sandviç). Do try out the kaşarlı tost, a sandwich with melted cheese.

Pastry Shops (Börekçi)

Plate of börek

These too are excellent places for a quick breakfast or lunch, although you normally don’t enjoy it while standing in the street. A börekçi is usually a tiny shop, with only a handful of chairs and tables, offering tea, coffee or a small selection of cold drinks and börek.

Börek is a flaky pastry existing of several thin layers. There are different kinds, based on their shape, filling and cooking method. You may want to try out the juicy su böreği (something in between a pastry and a lasagna), peynirli börek (with cheese filling), patatesli börek (with potato filling), ıspanaklı börek (with spinach filling) or kıymalı börek (filled with minced meat).

Most of these shops also sell pide which is a pita like baked dough with the same filling options as börek.

Kebap, Köfte and Döner

These typical Turkish cheap but delicious eateries couldn’t be left out of this list. Here you’ll find an overview of the different kinds of kebap and 14 types of köfte. In the Sultanahmet area, you simply must check out Sultanahmet Köftecisi.
If you’re wandering around in Taksim, try out Çılgın Dürüm – my favorite döner eatery at the beginning of Istiklal Caddesi. Try out their excellent dürüm, a thin roasted sheet of bread, stuffed with döner, salad, a (hot) tomato sauce and french fries. You can have it spicy (acı) or not too spicy (orta).

Fish Sandwiches (Balık ekmek)

Fish sandwiches being prepared on a boat

Balık ekmek is another typical Istanbul snack, and pretty tasteful and safe when prepared fresh. It’s pretty straightforward – a grilled or fried fresh fish inside a large piece of bread. The best way to explore this snack is in Eminönü, left from the Galata Bridge.
You’ll see them prepare the sandwiches on the nicely lined up boats, after which they hand them to customers on the shore.

Street Food to Stay Clear Of

Unless you want to have an army of bacteria for lunch, pass for the following major offenders:

• 

  Street vendor selling midye dolma

  Midye dolma – These are stuffed muscles. Nothing wrong with them and even delicious, but a huge risk when bought on the (sunny) streets. If you really want to try them, order them as a starter for dinner in a respected restaurant.

• Çiğ köfte – This is raw meat, kneaded by hand for hours, seasoned with plenty of spices. A delicacy, but not when sold on the streets. No matter how long you kneed it, it still stays raw meat exposed to high summer temperatures.
• Kokoreç – Lamb intestines cooked with herbs and spices, roasted horizontally on a skewer. Maybe not so much a bacteria heaven, but still… intestines?

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Istanbul has plenty of excellent public transportation options, but the inner-city buses are in my opinion not one of them. For starters, it is not the quickest means of transportation. Unlike Istanbul’s tram and metro system, they don’t have their own lanes and therefore suffer from the chronic Istanbul traffic jams. Secondly, it is not the most comfortable way of transportation. In an attempt to catch up on time lost, bus drivers swing their buses around to find a way through traffic.

Moreover, buses tend to be very crowded throughout the day which makes your chances in finding a seat very slim. And to make things worse, most buses don’t have (properly working) air-conditioning systems, so in summer you’ll most likely start sweating (and smelling) just like the person next to you.

Take my advice and make use of Istanbul’s excellent tram, metro and funicular system, use the (quick) ferries where available and for all other destinations under 15 km take a taxi. But if you personally want to experience a bus ride, here’s how it works.

Different Buses, Same Difference

Privately owned bus

There are two kinds of city buses: the ones operated by the municipality (İETT) and the ones operated by a private company (Özel Halk Otobüsleri). The first ones come in red and white, or green when they use a ‘green’ or gas engines. The private company’s buses are colored in pale blue and green.

Good to know? Yes and no. They both operate under municipal jurisdiction, most of the times they use the same bus stops, they follow the same route, and charge an equal fare. Both will dsiplay their destination either electronically just above the drivers windshield, or in the right bottom corner if the bus is older. The only (small) difference is the way you have to pay for your ride.

How to Pay for Your Ride

To board an İETT bus, you must either use your akbil or have a ticket (bilet). Tickets can be bought from the white fiber booths at major bus stops, from nearby shops (look for İETT otobüs bileti satılır) or from private sellers around the bus stops. In case of the latter, you’ll pay slightly more for your ticket.
The private buses don’t accept these tickets, but they do accept cash money. Just hand the conductor exact change or a small note and hop on. Most also accept akbil.

What Bus to Take

Most buses run from 06:00 until 23:00. Major bus stops like Taksim Square have route maps of the different lines, but the best way to find what bus you need, is to go to the website of the İETT.

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The most efficient and cheap way to get from a to b in Istanbul by public transportation is undoubtedly by metro, tram, funicular and/or ferry. These means of public transportation are very efficient, quick and punctual. Not in the least because they don’t suffer from Istanbul’s constantly clogged streets. In this article I focus on the vehicles with steel wheels and cover what lines you can take, how and where to catch them, their operating hours and fares.

Istanbul has 2 metro lines, 5 tram lines and 2 funiculars. For an overview, check this map of the Istanbul rail systems, which will open in a new window for your convenience. I won’t cover all these lines, because as a tourist you will probably only need and use (a combination of) the M1, M2, T1 and F1. For all of these lines I’ll mention the most important stops.

General Information

To get on a metro, tram or funicular you have to pass the turnstiles in order to reach the platform. To pass the turnstiles, you either need to buy a token (jeton) or use your pre-loaded akbil or İstanbul Kart. The price for all railway systems is TL 1,5. The vehicles are modern and air-conditioned.

The Aksaray-Airport (Havalimanı) Metro Line (M1)

Metro Sign

I already explained the best way to get from the airport to your hotel in Istanbul (or vica versa) in a previous article. But if you really insist to use public transportation and drag your suitcases along, this is the metro line to start with. It’s not a ‘real’ metro line since it runs both below and above ground, hence why it is called the ‘light metro’ or ‘light tramway’ (Hafif Tramvay). Keep in mind though that you will have to transfer to the T1 (see below) in Aksaray (the final stop) to reach Sultanahmet, and transfer again from the T1 to the F1 (see below) in Kabataş to reach Taksim. The transfer in Aksaray also means you’ll have to carry your suitcase(s) up and down some stairs.

• First Train: 06:00
• Last Train: 00:30
• Frequency: every 5 minutes; every 7,5 minutes on Sundays

The Şişhane-Atatürk Oto Sanayii Metro Line (M2)

This is the only real metro in Istanbul. It is a work in progress, with new stops being added regularly. Currently there are 10 stops. As a tourist, you’ll probably use the metro to go north from Taksim for shopping purposes. Get off in Osmanbey to reach Nişantası, in Şişli to visit the Cevahir and Profilo shopping centers or in Levent to browse around in the Metrocity & Akmerkez shopping centers. The last one requires a small taxi ride or walk to reach it.

• First Train: 06:15; 06:30 on Sundays
• Last Train: 00:30
• Frequency: every 4,5 minutes; every 7 minutes on Sundays

The Zeytinburnu-Kabataş Tram Line (T1)

For tourists, this is undoubtedly the most interesting line of all. Not in the least because it connects the historical part of Istanbul with the modern part of Istanbul by crossing the Galata Bridge.

It has stops like Laleli Üniversitesi (to reach the Süleymaniye Mosque), Beyazıt and Cemberlitaş (gates of the Grand Bazaar and famous hamam), Sultanahmet (plenty of sightseeing spots), Eminönü (Spice Market, New Mosque and Scenic Bosphorus Cruise & Kadıköy ferry dock), Karaköy (with connection to Tünel), Tophane (Istanbul Modern) and Kabataş (connection to Taksim via F1 or quick ferry or sea-bus dock for a visit to the Princes’ Islands).

• First Train: 06:00
• Last Train: 23:50
• Frequency: every 5 minutes

The Taksim-Kabataş Funicular (F1)

Furnicular connecting Taksim & Kabataş

This funicular, inaugurated in 2006, has been long-awaited and takes you up the steep hill from Kabataş to Taksim in only 150 seconds.

• First Train: 06:15; 06:30 on Sundays
• Last Train: 00:50; 01:20 on Fridays and Saturdays
• Frequency: every 5 minutes

Real Life Example

So, how to go from Sultanahmet to Taksim for example? Well, hop on the T1 and pay TL1,50. Maximum 10 minutes later, you’ll arrive at Kabataş. Transfer to the F1 and pay TL 1,50 if you use a token, or TL 0,75 if you use akbil and enjoy the 50% transfer discount. Summarized, this trip will take no more than 15 minutes and cost you in a worse case scenario TL 3 per person.

In other words, unless you’re traveling with a party of more than three, using the tram/funicular combination is not only quicker, but also cheaper than taking a taxi.

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The akbil electronic travel pass is definitely the best feature of the constantly improving Istanbul public transportation network. Akbil is short for ‘akıllı bilet‘, which means intelligent ticket. And that’s exactly what it is. It’s a basically a small stainless steel button in a plastic holder, together not bigger in size than any key on your keychain. Akbil serves as computerized fare tag which you can use for all public transportation except on a dolmuş or minibus. Although the akbil is slowly being phased out in favor of the new Istanbul Kart, it will remain popular for a long time and will save you both money and time.

The Benefits of Akbil

For starters it’s very convenient and easy to carry around since it fits on your keychain. It will save you time while getting on buses, trams, metros or ferries since you won’t have to look for a token or ticket sales office and stand in line to buy a jeton or bilet prior to hopping on the public transportation vehicle.

Secondly, it will also save you money. Not only do you get a 10% discount by using your akbil, the next five transits you make within a 120 minute period you get a 50% discount.

If you’re traveling with a party of two or more, there is technically no need to get more than one akbil. However, keep in mind that while everybody will still benefit from the basic 10% fare discount, only one will get the 50% transit fare discount. If you want to take the full advantage of akbil, it’s better to get one for every person.

Where and How to Get Akbil

Akbil sales point on Taksim Square

With the new Istanbul Kart surfacing, the amount of Akbil Sales Points (Akbil Satış Noktası) has unfortunately been dramatically reduced. The easiest way to obtain an electronic travel pass is to buy it at the busy bus stop on Taksim Square. Look for the blue and white kiosk that has the İETT logo and the text Akbil Satış Gişesi on top of it. You can’t miss really.

Once it’s your turn, hand the clerk TL 6 as the deposit and say akbil almak istiyorum (I would like to buy an akbil). He will hand you the travel pass and a receipt. Keep the receipt if you intend to return the akbil at the end of your stay in order to reclaim your deposit. That’s it, no forms or paperwork to be filled in. You of course still have to load it before you can use it.

How to Load and Recharge Your Akbil

Akbil Recharger

There are two ways to load or recharge your electronic travel pass: either at a akbil/ticket sales point, or by using one of the many akbil recharge machines located at most of the transit points. They come in different shapes and sizes.

The ones that recharge akbil or Istanbul Kart are most of the time built-in into a wall, while the rechargers that serve both travel passes and also provide tokens (jeton) are stand-alone rectangular machines.

Fortunately, the procedure to load your electronic travel pass is the same:

1. press your akbil firmly on the socket
2. insert a TL 10 or TL 20 banknote in the machine
3. once the money has been accepted, press your akbil again firmly on the socket to add the respective credits

How to Use Akbil

Typical turnstile

Prior to boarding a tram, metro, funicular, ferry or sea-bus you have to pass turnstiles. At the right-hand side of every turnstile, you’ll find a socket just underneath a small display. Press your akbil firmly on the socket until you hear a double beep sound and the screen shows your destination and the fare that has been deducted. At this point the turnstile will allow you to pass through. Repeat this process for as many people travel with you on the same travel pass.

If you’re using a bus or the nostalgic tram, then look for an orange machine with a socket and display. It is mostly located next to the driver seat and press your akbil firmly on the socket for every passenger in your party.

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The brand new Istanbul Card (İstanbul Kart) was proudly introduced in the spring of 2009 by the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality as a card with which you will be able to pay for all your Istanbul transportation, cultural and entertainment activities. In a first phase, the İstanbul Kart will replace the currently used akbil as a pre-paid public transportation pass. However, don’t rush to go get such a card, since the implementation doesn’t go as smooth as expected.

What Is the Istanbul Card?

The İstanbul Kart is a RFID (Radio-frequency identification) card which fits perfectly in your wallet since it has the dimensions of a regular credit card. It is a pre-paid and rechargeable card, which can be used to cover fares and entrance fees. At first it will enable you to cover any kind of transportation fees, including bus, tram, metro, funicular, ferry and sea-bus fares – yes, even your taxi and parking expenses.

You can also look at the İstanbul Kart as an electronic ticket. In the future the card will also pay for the entrance fees of movie theaters, cultural venues and/or museums. The latter is of course unnecessary is you have a Müzekart.

How Does the Istanbul Card Work?

Istanbul Kart with the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque in Istanbul

You obtain an Istanbul Card (see below) and make sure there is enough money on it. Remember, it’s a pre-paid card, not a credit card. When you have to pay a fee of some kind for your transportation or leisure activities, you place it in the proximity of a fare point, and the amount due is automatically deducted from your card. In ideal circumstances you don’t even have to take the card out of your wallet. And for transportation purposes you will pay the same reduced rate as you currently do with your akbil.

Where Can I Get an Istanbul Card?

Currently you can only obtain an Istanbul Card at the IETT Akbil/Ticket sales point in Mecidiyeköy. No clue where that is? No need to worry! Just keep on reading and I’ll explain why.

Why You Should Keep Your Akbil!

Although not new, the idea to have one card to pay for the majority of your Istanbul transportation, cultural or leisure expenses is brilliant. However, the wide-spread implementation of the technology to deduct the fees due automatically has proven to be a painfully slow process. The municpality implements it route by route. With hundreds of public transportation lines throughout the city of Istanbul, this may take a while.

So for the time being, I strongly suggest you to stick or obtain an akbil to cover your public transportation fares and leave the Istanbul Card for what it is until all transportation means and lines are equipped to handle it.

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A Scenic Cruise on the Bosphorus has to be on your Istanbul to-do list while you’re visiting this marvellous Turkish metropolitan. To give you an idea of what you can expect, I created the video below.

There are two versions available: a YouTube version (smaller in size) and a WVM version (bigger in size). The length of both movies is the same: 4:39 min.

Enjoy!

YouTube Version

Local Version

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After leaving the Yeniköy dock we enter the final leg of the Scenic Bosphorus Cruise. There were plenty of sightseeing spots to look for during the cruise on the lower Bosphorus and the middle Bosphorus, and in that respect the upper Bosphorus may seem a little disappointing. But don’t be fooled by the shorter highlights list below (the place marks refer to their locations on the map below). Views of the Black Sea and the Istanbul strait from the Genoese Castle on the Anadolu Kavağı shore are spectacular. You can also explore the village itself a bit or try out one of the many fish restaurants for lunch or dinner.

• Beykoz – The biggest features of this fishing village are the İshak Ağa Çeşmesi, an elegant ablution fountain (1746) on the village square, and some excellent fish restaurants. From now on you can focus on the European shore, since most of the land from Beykoz until Anadolu Kavağı (the last stop) belongs to the military.
• 

  The Huber Mansion

  Huber Mansion (Huber Köşkü) – This 19th century yalı, designed by D’Aronco, currently belongs to the government and is an official residence of the Turkish president.

• Tarabya Bay – A little cove which used to be frequented by aristocrats for its healthy water and climate. Today, the area is still rather exclusive, but the focus lies on the rather pricy (fish) restaurants.
• Sarıyer – The first of the three docks where the ferry will land during its cruise on the upper Bosphorus. It is also the biggest village of this final leg. Wandering around the streets and eating in one of the fish restaurants (turn right) is a pleasant experience.
• Rumeli Kavağı – I personally never disembarked at this last stop on the European shore. Why? Simply because it doesn’t seem to be an attractive or lively place, with the only attraction the fish restaurants that are line-up by the waterfront.
• 

  Fish restaurants in Anadolu Kavağı

  Anadolu Kavağı – This is the last stop of the ferry, before it returns back to the city center following the exact same route in the opposite direction. Do get off the ferry here to wander around in this cozy little village, climb up to Anadolu Kavağı Kalesi and/or grab a bite in one of the many fish restaurants. Whatever you decide to do, make sure you don’t miss the last ferry back! And in case you ended up here with the nightly Bosphorus tour, you only just have enough time to grab a bite so don’t stall deciding what restaurant to take. I tried a few already, and they more or less all serve the same (quality of) food.
  If you’re up for it, take the walk (under 1 hour) to the ruins of the medieval castle or alternatively take a taxi. The fortress was built by the Byzantines, occupied and reinforced by the Genoese in 1350, and later seized by the Ottomans. Once there, you can enjoy spectacular views of the Black Sea.

View Highlights on the Upper Bosphorus in a larger map

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