İstiklal Caddesi, home to many museums and galleries has recently welcomed a new and innovative exhibition space: SALT Beyoğlu. Housed in a beautiful six-storey 19th century building, SALT has been transformed into a ‘multi-functional’ cultural complex. With its impressive architecture, interior design and rich program, SALT is surely more than a gallery.

On the ground floor, the entrance is aimed to create a ‘Forum’ area, and the walk-in cinema hosts programmed events such film screenings, talks and discussions. SALT’s exhibition area is spread over three levels, displaying contemporary art by both local and international artists. One of my favorite details about SALT is its rooftop garden (the “edible estate”) – visitors are allowed to step into the patio and observe this mini-garden in the middle of the city rooftops.

Feeling hungry after art-gazing? The Bistro on the ground level offers simple and fresh dishes and drinks. They also offer a special menu inspired by SALT’s current exhibitions – why not give it a try! Attached to the Bistro, you can find the Bookstore, a branch of the lovely Robinson Crusoe 389, specializing in books related to visual culture and urban and cultural studies.

Istanbul’s contemporary art scene is expanding by day, and SALT has already opened its doors in another fabulous location, the close-by neighborhood of Galata – check their website for more information. I highly recommend stopping by SALT to visit the exhibition, maybe attend one of the many events and grab a bite at the elegant yet relaxed Bistro.

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SALT Beyoğlu | Art & culture, Cinemas, Restaurants (Bistro) | Free
İstiklal Caddesi 136 | Beyoglu | +902123774200
Tue – Sat 12:00 – 20:00, Sun 10:30 – 18:00

While the magnificent Haydarpaşa Garı is worth a trip on its own, I recommend going there to enjoy both the splendor of the station and the equally magnificent mezes of the Gar Lokantası.

The high ceilings, blue tiles and dim lighting set up the perfect ambiance in the room, as olive oil bottles that line the walls and the blue-and-white checkered tablecloths contribute to the Aegean inspiration. The tables get adorned with candlelight – nothing fancy, just a candlestick on a little plate, cozy enough for a traditional meyhane, where people get together around shared mezes, small platters of cold vegetable and olive-oil based dishes, and generous amounts of rakı, the wonderful anise-flavored drink.

On weekends, the restaurant has live fasıl music, where two gentlemen play old favorites, nothing like the cheesy Beyoğlu fasıls that you might encounter, but the real thing. A black-and-white Turkish movie is projected to a wall, further establishing the sense of nostalgia one can only get in an old restaurant in a train station.

The food here is also delightful – old favorites are coupled with not-so-familiar mezes, such as the maş piyazı, a mung bean and sour pomegranate sauce salad, or the crushed walnut-green olives meze. On weekends with live music, the restaurant only serves fixed menus; a salad to share, cheese and mezes, hot appetizers, fish casserole, dessert and rakı is included in the price.

The price is not the cheapest, but it’s totally worth the atmosphere, the music and the delicious food.

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Haydarpaşa Gar Lokantası | Music, Restaurants (Turkish) | Fixed price (on weekends) TL 75
Haydarpaşa Garı, Kadıköy | Kadikoy | +902163370979
08:00 – 00:00 daily

Built in 1892 and proudly worn through the years, the Büyük Londra Oteli (Grand Hotel de Londres) is one of the most eccentric buildings in the city. Located in the Pera area along with the infamous Pera Palace, the two hotels have been preserving their Ottoman-Victorian charm ever since the time of the Orient Express. Büyük Londra Oteli is a page in history on its own: its fading grandeur is kept the way it is – no chic wi-fi lounges or ultra modern furnitures, instead you can find portable coal stoves, parrot cages and photos of Istanbul at the height of its ‘Oriental’ splendor.

The building has slowly become popular again since the famous director Fatih Akın used it in his brilliant films. With the high ceilings and red velvet furnishings, the hotel has managed to keep the ambiance as it was years ago.

The hotel’s terrace bar is in my opinion one of the best places to grab an afternoon drink – looking over the Golden Horn, the bar serves drinks and meals at very affordable prices. The unassuming décor of the rooftop bar and the soft breeze in summer afternoons make one feel like one has discovered a secret jewel in the midst of the city.

The terrace is another reason to love springtime in Istanbul, but if you’re visiting when the weather is still chilly, visit its main hall and have a coffee in its lobby bar, taking your time to feel the graciously faded elegance.

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Büyük Londra Oteli & Terrace Bar | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks | Glass of wine TL 8
Meşrutiyet Caddesi No: 53 | Beyoglu | +902122450670
08:00 – 02:00 daily (Terrace closed in winter)

If you’re a big fan of cheerful street markets like I am, the Beşiktaş fish market should definitely be on your to-see list. With its local crowds buzzing around dusk till dawn, cheap and cheerful restaurants and black-and-white clad die-hard football fans, Beşiktaş is a unique neighborhood of Istanbul.

Although very central, it isn’t home to many tourist attractions and is a densely populated residential and commercial area – so, if you want to feel like a local in this city, taking a stroll around Beşiktaş will be more than enough.

The fish market has always been a giant contributor to the lively scene in the neighborhood: it’s right in the middle of all the buzz, and with its fishmongers singing tunes about how fresh the fish is or the sounds of the clients bargaining, even passing by this place makes you feel jolly.

The market attracted a lot of critique with its renovation in 2008, some said that it looked too out-of-place in such an old neighborhood, but I think the concrete structure and the light bulbs that hang from the high ceilings bring a breath of fresh air to the street.

I recommend visiting the market in the evening even if you’re not buying any fish – just to look around and feel the vibe, see for yourself whether the controversial architecture is any good, and if you’re hungry, there are a lot of good fish restaurants like the Beşiktaş Balıkçısı attached to the market.

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Beşiktaş Balık Pazarı | Relaxing, Shopping, Restaurants (Fish)
Balık Pazarı, Beşiktaş | Bebek-Ortakoy
08:00 – 21:00 daily

Once in İstanbul you will obviously see the steamboats. The veteran ships carrying hundreds of people every day from Asia to Europe or vice versa. These steamboats have been unique image of the Bosphorus. You cannot have a Bosphorus without them.

The documented steamboat had served İstanbul for the last 55 years, had visioned all the history and the events that took place during this time. The photo has been taken one month before the boat has retired in 2008. The last trip of the ship was on 22 of December, 2008 named ‘Farewell Tour’.

It’s now located on the shore of Rahmi Koc Museum to be visited by İstanbullites and tourists. Instead of recycling it into razor the municipality has decided to display it in a museum for all to see.

Fernerbahce steamboat had touched the Bosphorus water on the 14th of May 1953 and served the public and plyed between The Princess Islands-Yalova and Kadikoy route for years. The documented photo show the veteran on its last route between Kabatas-Kadikoy.

Built by William Denny & Brothers Dumbarton, in 1952 in Scotland, Glasgow, this boat is a living history of Istanbul with allot of memories waiting to share it with all the rest of us.

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Fenerbahçe Steamboat | Art & culture | Entrance to the Museum TL 11
Rahmi M Koç Museum Hasköy Cad. No: 5 | Eminonu | +902123696600
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 17:00

Şark Kahvesi (The Orient Coffee House) is one of my must stops in the Grand Bazaar Complex. It’s a traditional Turkish Coffee / tea house that is used by the Grand Bazaar population. It had been a part of the narrow streets of the bazaar until the owner walled up several sides to convert it to its formerly architectural status.

The nicotine colored walls is a reference to the times when smoking was allowed in the coffee house. It’s a popular tea and coffee spot for the locals and also for the visitors. It’s a breather spot during the hassle of the crowd in the Grand Bazaar.

The coffee nor the tea is anything special, I can even comment that it’s lame in taste as there are much better spots in the city but the atmosphere is a gem. The spot where the coffee house is located is in the junctions of at least three bazaar streets where you can sit back and watch the human traffic.

Order your self a Turkish Coffee without sugar called “sade” (meaning basis without anything) and sit back while you sip the sour coffee along with a cold glass of water. This is the most relaxing spot possible for anyone.

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Şark Kahvesi | Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Shopping | 3 for Tea / 5 for Coffee TL 6
Yaglikcilar Cad. 134 | Eminonu | +902125121144
Mon – Sat 09:00 -19:30

I usually hear the comments from people who visit Istanbul and have had enough of Turkish meals. Obviously after a certain time consuming kebabs could be tiring especially for stomachs which are foreign to the cuisine.

In that case I suggest Udonya to them, one of my favourite Japanese restaurants in town. The co-owner Hulya Akal is a Japan passionate and her efforts are reflected on the food. It’s fresh, yummy and always fulfilling. You can have only ramen or udon or the whole deal.

It might be a little costly when compared to other restaurants in Europe but the service and the food quality is flawless. Just thing about it for one lunch or dinner when you feel that you had enough of Turkish cuisine. Especially try the Green Tea ice cream!

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Udonya | Restaurants (Japanese) | Dinner from TL 50
Topçu Cad. No:2 | Beyoglu | +902122569318
12:00 – 21:00 daily

Like most people this is one of my favourite paintings to stare at for hours. It is a painting by Osman Hamdi Bey which was originally called in Turkish “Kaplumbağalar ve Adam” (The tortoises and The man) but later with popularity it was generally named The Tortoise Trainer.

The painter painted two versions of this, one in 1906 and the other in 1907. The one documented in the photo is the first version and is located in one of the best contemporary/orientalist/classical museums of İstanbul Pera Museum (check the Pera Museum article). It is displayed in this Museum for the public and photos can be taken (without flash obviously).

It’s an oil on canvas with 221,5 x 120 cm dimensions. If you are an art lover I would definitely suggest you to have a stop at the Pera Museum just to only see this painting as its extremely worthwhile.

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The Tortoise Trainer | Art & culture | Entrance TL 10
Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.65 | Beyoglu | +902123349900
Tue – Sat 10:00 – 19:00, Sun 12:00 – 18:00

The fog has become a part of the normal life in Istanbul. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not a daily basis thing but when all the factors in the atmosphere are just right you can get the thickest fog possible. Of course our fogs are not as famous as the London ones.

So when the fog lays over the city you can consider that we all go through a chaos as everything basically stands still. The public steam ferry boats stop working along with most sea transportation. Even the traffic is affected. Of course the air traffic as well so I hope you won’t be in the plane when it happens.

But I must say when the fog lays itself on the city what you observe is exquisite, the photos you can take are priceless. As documented above you can see that the Bosphorous Bridge (opened to public in 1972) has been lost in fog and the atmosphere is just lovely. I do hope during your stay you get to experience the fog over Istanbul.

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The Bosphorous bridge | Art & culture, Relaxing
Bosphorous bridge | Uskudar
24 hours daily

Nimet Abla (aka Melek Nimet Ozden) was born in 1899 in İstanbul and passed away 1978. She was a national lottery (milli piyango) seller. In 1928 she started selling lottery tickets in her shop in Eminonu. In 1931 one of the tickets won and since then she has become a public figure of luck.

She was very clever and used her earned money for advertising, and informed the locals about people who won lottery with tickets bought from her shop. Since then and still any local person in hopes of winning the big lottery definitely wants tickets bought from Nimet abla. It’s almost like an urban legend; if you get the ticket from her you surely will get something in return (obviously this is not the case most of the time).

The photo documents show a person buying a ticket from the original shop of Nimet Abla, the lady on the back ground is the famous person by the way. I know buying a lottery ticket would be the last in your to do list in Istanbul but just for one you can have a stop at this stop to see how the locals are still persuing the legend in hopes of dreams of wealth.

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Nimet Abla | Art & culture, Shopping
Bahçekapi Arpacilar Cad . No:29-31 | Eminonu
09:00 – 19:00 daily