Creative souls can design their own water feature with little more than a solar pump and a couple of bricks. You could even dig trenches to create a stream with bridges and a few cascades. But if you want to avoid the work, the best way to go is with a ready-made one. These come in all shapes and sizes, but your choice should bear in mind the sound it creates as well as how it looks. A gurgle may be preferred to a drip, or a whoosh to a shush.

Your water feature could be still or moving, both are entrancing to gaze upon and add some tranquility to your home or garden. A still water feature reflects brilliant images and a moving one provides added enjoyment for your ears.

Larger outdoor water features may take their water supply from the mains, but many recycle their water so you don’t waste any apart from through evapouration. Once you fill it up, the water will circulate in a closed loop and you just need to top it up now and then. You should aim for one that gives you the most enjoyment for the least maintenance.

The main things to consider when buying water features are:

• Finding the right location
• Style and design
• Size and shape
• Sound and lighting
• Water source
• Power source

Electric powered water features

Most water features, and usually any large garden ones, are powered by electricity-driven pumps that need plugging in. They don’t use much electricity but they do sometimes leave you wondering how to get a power cable across the garden. One option is to hook it up to an outside light, but ensure it doesn’t depend on the light being on. If the cable goes across the lawn or soil it’s simply a case of burying it, though when you hit a path or hard surface it’s a different kettle of fish that requires some effort. Indoor water features are necessarily electric powered, but obviously much easier to plug in.

Solar powered water features

These water features are powered by photovoltaic cells that convert sunlight into electricity for the pump and battery storage system, which keeps the feature running even in the dark. They’re increasingly popular due to energy cost savings and the fact they don’t need plugging in, so you can pretty much place them anywhere and won’t have power cables strewn across the garden. Most are self-contained and recycle the water they use.

Solar water features come in all guises, from bronze or terracotta pedestal bird baths to free-floating pond devices. The most obvious benefit is you don’t have to pay for electricity, nor get an electrician round to install or maintain it. They are usually easy to assemble without specialist knowledge, plus they are also safer than electric powered fountains and fairly maintenance-free apart from the odd cleaning job.

Typically the pumps are low voltage (12 to 24 volt DC) and because of that, solar water features have a lower rate of flow and cannot support a large spray of water. But if you are looking for a smaller fountain, solar systems are the perfect choice.

The solar panels used to power the fountain can be mounted on a wall or on an adjacent stake in the ground. However, placed in a dark spot they won’t charge properly and the performance of the fountain will be affected. There are backup batteries with some models but long periods of little light will still use up the batteries pretty fast. Usually, expensive ones have smaller panels and vice versa.

• Advantages of solar powered water features

• Easy to assemble
• Kind to the environment
• Wide range of designs
• No electricity costs
• No need for power cables
• Nice and calming

Disadvantages of solar powered water features

• There is a limit to how big they can be
• Water flow is not powerful
• Will not work if they can’t charge

Types of water feature

A classic, standalone or in a pond, the fountain is the best known water feature out there. For all their elegance, fountains need little maintenance and can be found to suit any budget. The variety is infinite, from simple bowls to peeing cherubs, but choose one that compliments your garden.

You can either blend the fountain naturally into your garden or feature it in a landscaped area. If it’s big enough you can even add some fish. Formal fountains are popular if your garden boasts a proper pool or pond, where they can be used as a great additional feature. Jets of water shooting upwards from the middle of the pond are very appealing and can recycle their water. A submersible pump will make the job easy and solar-powered jet fountains are also available.

Wall water features are mounted on walls, funnily enough. They are great for patios or when you’re short of space, and often designed so the water gushes from an imaginative wall opening or animal figurine.

Rock or pebble features give your garden a natural feel with water flowing out over the stones. You can get nice round pebbles or sheer drops of slate, and every rock in between. Each brings their own character to create a distinctive atmosphere.

Bird baths are a lovely addition to the garden and a beautiful enticement for the birds, who come to cool off and drink water. With a fountain they look even better, but cost more. You could build it yourself but you have to be careful not to use materials that can contaminate the water, like painted plastic or treated wood. Birds like warm, moving water, so you can modify your bird bath with drippers, heaters and water movers.

Pedestal fountains, which usually take the form of a basin atop a central pillar, often find themselves doubling as a bird bath and create a nice focal point for larger gardens especially. They speak of times past and seem never to go out of fashion.

Tiered fountains have several levels for water to flow down. They can be compact, indoor water features or lengthy cascades. Perhaps not as calming as a babbling brook, but nonetheless a feature of interest and serenity.

Waterfalls are the daddy of water features, and can be surprisingly easy to build yourself. Though more often than not, a decent waterfall depends your garden topography. Maybe you just want a cute little cascade which can found in many ready-made water features, but the true waterfall is part of the garden itself. They can culminate in ponds or not, and fish and plants can be added to give more atmospheric umphh.

Pots, particularly Cretan ones, are an ancient form of water feature and often unique, hand thrown on a potter’s wheel each with its own personality. Most are self contained and Cretan ones are made of the same mineral-laden clay that was used way back when they first originated in Crete.

Water blades, or walls, create a flow of water in a sheet pattern and can be some of the most imposing, eye-catching water features. They combine stillness before an inevitable cascade that gets recycled to the lip of the drop again and again.

A typical digital station comes with one or more sensors that are placed outside, and a display unit that is portable or left inside. The sensors can be wired or wireless. As well as forecasts based on air pressure, a digital weather station will generally be able to indicate temperature both indoors and out, but many are able to sense and display a lot more.

Analogue weather stations are often traditional, clock-like instruments. Like their digital counterparts, they can predict and display the current conditions, though perhaps in not as much detail. But what they lack in features they make up for in decorative appeal.

What do they measure?

Weather station sensors usually include at least a thermometer to take temperature readings and a barometer to measure atmospheric pressure. Other sensors can measure rain, wind, humidity and more.

Thermometer: A thermometer measures temperature. Some weather stations can measure temperature indoors and out, record highs and lows, show temperature trends, and even predict short-term temperature ranges.
Hygrometer: A hygrometer measures relative humidity; the quantity or percentage of water vapor in the air.
Barometer: A barometer measures atmospheric pressure and can help to forecast weather based on pressure changes. It is arguably the most important feature of a weather station, and may be the only feature of some models.
Anemometer: An anemometer measures wind speed.
Weather Vane: A weather vane, or wind vane, measures wind direction.
Rain Gauge: A rain gauge measures rainfall or liquid precipitation. Some weather stations include alerts to notify you when a rain event has begun, or of potential flood conditions.

Forecasting

In addition to current conditions, a weather station may be able to predict future weather and warn of approaching storms, notifying you when a rain event has begun, or of potential flood conditions. They may also allow you to create an alarm according to set parameters which is extremely useful if you grow plants, or fruit and veg.

Higher-end digital weather stations enable you to monitor a variety of conditions through advanced features that draw on data from several sensors and produce accurate forecasts. Some even come with instruments that measure soil and water temperature, ultraviolet light and soil moisture.

The wireless devices are easy to handle, portable and their sensors can be positioned almost anywhere – at the end of your garden, or even further provided there are no obstructions in the way. Prices go up the more features and capabilities a weather station has, but you can get a decent one for as little as £20.

Add water features

Water features are available in wide variety. From tiny, decorative ponds to refreshing, atmospheric fountains, water features can certainly bring a natural feel to your home’s interior.

Utilise planters

Decorative planters and pots are often absolute necessities for indoor gardening, but it’s worth mentioning the benefits of individual planters for individual plants. Keeping things portable in an indoor environment is always worthwhile, and keeping gardening as simple as one plant per planter allows you the flexibility you’ll need to maximise small spaces.

Consider plants with pleasant scents

Rose gardens and outdoor scented plants are certainly pleasing to the senses, but these enjoyable smells are even more noticeable in an indoor environment. Too many roses can be overwhelming, but consider using a few herbs, such as cilantro or even mint, that can bring a fresh and pleasant scent into your home.

Go vertical

One of the most effective ways to maximise garden space indoors is to go vertical with your indoor garden. Some people get creative with hanging baskets, or even pieces of guttering, one on top of the other with plants growing inside them. It takes effort, but a vertical garden inside can offer great potential.

Hanging pots

Similar to the concept of going vertical is the idea of using hanging plants inside. This can also be done in a variety of ways, from plants on top of cabinets spilling over the sides, or simply hanging pots of small plants under cabinets or even from the ceiling!

Don’t exclude trees

Finally, as you think about how to organise an indoor garden in limited space, don’t completely rule out a small tree or two to liven up your home interior. While the concept of a tree indoors sounds like it would take up a great deal of space, the reality is that most indoor trees are tall and thin, and can easily be placed in a corner where they’ll add some green to your home without taking up inconvenient space. Indoor fruit trees in particular can be lovely addition to your home.

As a rule of thumb, most require a light soil with good drainage – multi-purpose compost mixed with grit or perlite should be fine – and should be planted with the growing tip facing up and at a depth of 2-3 times their height, spaced about 1 or 2 bulb widths apart.

If your chosen plant likes a lot of light and you can’t position your container or hanging basket in a sunny place, you can always use a grow light.

As they begin to grow, water bulbs in containers regularly but take care not to bog them up. Reduce watering when leaves begin to back off, but don’t let the compost dry out completely. Once shoots appear your container bulbs might benefit from a high potash feed such as tomato fertiliser.

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Spider plants are tolerant of neglect and erratic watering but respond to care with a weekly feed of something like [amazon asin=B0030FWAUU&text=Baby Bio] added to their water. The occasional use of rain water helps too. They will grow in most positions, however if sat on a sunny windowsill the leaves may turn brown at the edges as they get scorched by the sun. So a spot where they get light but not in direct sunlight will suit them beautifully. Ideal to put in a hanging basket so the stems can cascade down, you can re-pot occasionally with any general compost.

Spider plants also add a seventies retro feel to a room when hung in a [amazon asin=B00B3L56R2&text=macramé plant holders]. You can be creative with string and beads and make something individual and fun. They also make good presents.

A lot of people are put off from keeping basil after bringing home the plants available in supermarkets and watching them deteriorate in front of their eyes. They can be a bit of a challenge because basil needs a lot of sunshine to really do well.  However, it’s worth perservering as having fresh basil leaves is a boon to your kitchen.

It’s available in many different varieties, but the most popular is Sweet Basil (ocimum basilcum). You may also like to try Cinnimon Basil or Lemon Basil (great with fish).

The most important thing for basil is a good supply of sunshine. It likes to be in full sun, so this can be difficult if you’re growing it indoors. However, you may be able to find a suitable sunny spot, or if you’re especially keen, you could buy an indoor growing light. It also grows well on a sunny windowsill in a window box, but make sure it’s sheltered from cold winds and frost in the winter. Make sure you use a compost with good drainage and good luck! See the post on how to grow basil from seed to get started, and tips for healthy plants for maintaining your plant.

Basil seeds

Basil seeds are cheap as chips. You have nothing to lose and a lot of basil to gain!

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It’s important to start with [amazon asin=B0080R38P4&text=a good quality compost]. You want a nutrient rich soil with good drainage.

Germination

Sow the seeds in April. Sprinkle the seeds onto moist potting compost in a small pot, about 2-3 inches (5cm) wide. Aim for about 5 seeds per pot so they don’t get crowded. Then cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost and leave in a warm place. The seeds should sprout in a couple of weeks.

While the seeds are sprouting, keep them warm and in sunlight. Place the pot in a saucer of water to keep the soil damp. When the small plants are established, take out the smallest two so that you have your three healthiest plants in each pot.

Potting on

The plants are ready to repot again when they have their ‘true’ leaves. Seedlings grow with two small leaves opposite each other, like mini propellers. The true leaves are the ones that develop after this. Wait until the new plants have about 5 true leaves, and they’re a few inches tall, and they’re ready to be potted into their own pot.

Make sure you have a suitable container like a herb planter or window box as these plants need good drainage. The pH of the soil should be slightly acidic to neutral, at least 6.0 and below 7.5. Checking the pH every 4-6 weeks and maintaining the pH with an organic fertiliser will keep it at this level. You probably only need to use this fertiliser at about half the recommended strength to do this. Normally basil isn’t too fussy regarding soil composition but they need a bit more attention when growing indoors. Water the plant regularly and keep the soil moist, but make sure the excess water drains away underneath the pot. Don’t leave plants sat in water or they could rot. If you really want to pamper your plant, use tepid water rather than cold.

To pot plants, gently remove each seedling. Hold the plant by the stem only, and NEVER touch the roots. They are fragile, and often a bit spindly at this stage. Place the seedling in the new pot, in hole deep enough to allow the roots to spread. Tip in compost around the seedling and gently pat the soil down around the plant. Water it in well. If you are putting more than one seedling into a large pot or a winow box, try to allow about 4 inches (10cm) between plants to give them room to grow.

Harvesting the basil

Wait until the plant is about 4-5 inches (10 cm) tall before harvesting any leaves. Then just pinch or cut the leaves off as required. Try to restrict yourself to only taking the leaves, not a whole stem, as this can weaken the plant. Pinch off the tops of the plant regularly to encourage more young leaves to grow.

Basil seeds

Basil seeds are cheap as chips. You have nothing to lose and a lot of basil to gain!

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It’s difficult to keep basil going in the winter because of the lack of sunshine and chance of frost. Your plant will probably look a bit sorry for itself. However, if you can just keep it alive, give it a pruning and a new pot in the spring, and more than likely the plant will come back as good as ever with the sunshine of spring. You could invest in [amazon asin=B008A5YBJ8&text=a growing light] if you were keen to keep the same plant, or just grow from seed again in the spring. If you have a productive plant, you could dry some of the leaves, but I would prefer to freeze them as they keep their flavour better.

If there are yellow leaves around the bottom of the plant, it needs more light and hold back on the fertiliser for a bit.

Sprinkle some dried, ground up eggshell around the plant on top of the soil. Do this after about a year, and then repeat every year. This will refresh the plant.

White powdery mildew on the surface of the soil?

Rosemary needs good air circulation. Without this, rosemary plants can develop a mildew that looks like a white powder. This is especially common if the air is humid. If this occurs then try and increase the circulation by placing a fan in the room for a few hours a day.

Aphids or spider mites?

Indoor rosemary plants are particularly prone to these. This is easily treated by spraying the plant with an insecticidal soap bought from a garden centre under the plant is healthy again.

1. Cut a 2 inch stem for new growth on a well established plant. Snip off the bottom leaves rather than pull them off.
2. Dip the bottom tip into a hormone rooting powder.
3. Pop the cutting carefully in a pot of dampened peat moss and perlite. Spray the cuttings with a mist of water.

Your new cutting may even take root if you leave it in a glass of water on a sunny windowsill.

The cuttings will take about 2­ to 3 weeks to root. You can check if the plant has taken root by gently tugging at the plant, but be careful not to dislodge the plant if it isn’t ready yet!