Indoor Gardener

What is a weather station?

jon — Fri, 17 May 2013 12:20:00 +0000

A weather station is a device that collects data on the weather and environment using sensors. They can predict the weather and display current conditions outside. Recent years have seen digital stations getting smaller, smarter and cheaper. Now they are a popular home gadget and used by all sorts of people, from farmers and meteorologists, to walkers and of course, gardeners, for whom they are a great bit of kit and a bit like a baby monitor for your plants.

DB-Tech Digital Wireless Weather Station

A typical digital station comes with one or more sensors that are placed outside, and a display unit that is portable or left inside. The sensors can be wired or wireless. As well as forecasts based on air pressure, a digital weather station will generally be able to indicate temperature both indoors and out, but many are able to sense and display a lot more.

Analogue weather stations are often traditional, clock-like instruments. Like their digital counterparts, they can predict and display the current conditions, though perhaps in not as much detail. But what they lack in features they make up for in decorative appeal.

Weathereye WEA26 analogue weather station

What do they measure?

Weather station sensors usually include at least a thermometer to take temperature readings and a barometer to measure atmospheric pressure. Other sensors can measure rain, wind, humidity and more.

Thermometer: A thermometer measures temperature. Some weather stations can measure temperature indoors and out, record highs and lows, show temperature trends, and even predict short-term temperature ranges.
Hygrometer: A hygrometer measures relative humidity; the quantity or percentage of water vapor in the air.
Barometer: A barometer measures atmospheric pressure and can help to forecast weather based on pressure changes. It is arguably the most important feature of a weather station, and may be the only feature of some models.
Anemometer: An anemometer measures wind speed.
Weather Vane: A weather vane, or wind vane, measures wind direction.
Rain Gauge: A rain gauge measures rainfall or liquid precipitation. Some weather stations include alerts to notify you when a rain event has begun, or of potential flood conditions.

Forecasting

In addition to current conditions, a weather station may be able to predict future weather and warn of approaching storms, notifying you when a rain event has begun, or of potential flood conditions. They may also allow you to create an alarm according to set parameters which is extremely useful if you grow plants, or fruit and veg.

Higher-end digital weather stations enable you to monitor a variety of conditions through advanced features that draw on data from several sensors and produce accurate forecasts. Some even come with instruments that measure soil and water temperature, ultraviolet light and soil moisture.

The wireless devices are easy to handle, portable and their sensors can be positioned almost anywhere – at the end of your garden, or even further provided there are no obstructions in the way. Prices go up the more features and capabilities a weather station has, but you can get a decent one for as little as £20.

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Tips For Indoor Gardening

jon — Fri, 26 Apr 2013 11:11:46 +0000

When the weather warms up as it is about to do in the coming months, many people turn their focus to the outdoors and to gardening. However, while outdoor gardening can be a very rewarding hobby, you can also turn your gardening interests inside to add a bit of flavour to your home interior. Indoor gardening naturally occurs in smaller spaces, but with careful and strategic planning you can turn a bland corner of your kitchen, or a shelving space in your living room, into a miniature indoor garden. Here are a few specific tips and ideas to help get your indoor garden on track.

Add water features

It’s not necessarily what most people think of first when shopping for garden supplies, but whether you’re at the closest gardening centre or browsing on the web at MySmartBuy, water features are available in wide variety. From tiny, decorative ponds to refreshing, atmospheric fountains, water features can certainly bring a natural feel to your home’s interior.

Utilise planters

Decorative planters and pots are often absolute necessities for indoor gardening, but it’s worth mentioning the benefits of individual planters for individual plants. Keeping things portable in an indoor environment is always worthwhile, and keeping gardening as simple as one plant per planter allows you the flexibility you’ll need to maximise small spaces.

Consider plants with pleasant scents

Rose gardens and outdoor scented plants are certainly pleasing to the senses, but these enjoyable smells are even more noticeable in an indoor environment. Too many roses can be overwhelming, but consider using a few herbs, such as cilantro or even mint, that can bring a fresh and pleasant scent into your home.

Go vertical

One of the most effective ways to maximise garden space indoors is to go vertical with your indoor garden. Some people get creative with hanging baskets, or even pieces of guttering, one on top of the other with plants growing inside them. It takes effort, but a vertical garden inside can offer great potential.

Hanging pots

Similar to the concept of going vertical is the idea of using hanging plants inside. This can also be done in a variety of ways, from plants on top of cabinets spilling over the sides, or simply hanging pots of small plants under cabinets or even from the ceiling!

Don’t exclude trees

Finally, as you think about how to organise an indoor garden in limited space, don’t completely rule out a small tree or two to liven up your home interior. While the concept of a tree indoors sounds like it would take up a great deal of space, the reality is that most indoor trees are tall and thin, and can easily be placed in a corner where they’ll add some green to your home without taking up inconvenient space. Indoor fruit trees in particular can be lovely addition to your home.

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How to grow bulbs and corms indoors

jon — Wed, 10 Apr 2013 11:34:51 +0000

With the right environment and soil it’s possible to grow many bulbs, corms and tubers indoors. Different species require different conditions, so check the packaging they came in or do some research.

As a rule of thumb, most require a light soil with good drainage – multi-purpose compost mixed with grit or perlite should be fine – and should be planted with the growing tip facing up and at a depth of 2-3 times their height, spaced about 1 or 2 bulb widths apart.

If your chosen plant likes a lot of light and you can’t position your container or hanging basket in a sunny place, you can always use a grow light.

As they begin to grow, water bulbs in containers regularly but take care not to bog them up. Reduce watering when leaves begin to back off, but don’t let the compost dry out completely. Once shoots appear your container bulbs might benefit from a high potash feed such as tomato fertiliser.

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Spider plants

jon — Mon, 20 Jul 2009 15:20:34 +0000

Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) are reliable, companionable and easy to keep plants. Popular in the 70s and 80s, they are now seeing a well deserved revival. They’re quick growing, putting out wiry stems in the spring and summer which have small white flowers. Spider plants self propagate, producing baby plantlets that are easy to repot and grow on creating a whole new generation of spider plants for friends and family. Known for their air cleaning properties these plants do well even in poorly lit rooms. They can help to reduce air pollution so try putting one near a computer.

Spider plants are tolerant of neglect and erratic watering but respond to care with a weekly feed of something like Baby Bio added to their water. The occasional use of rain water helps too. They will grow in most positions, however if sat on a sunny windowsill the leaves may turn brown at the edges as they get scorched by the sun. So a spot where they get light but not in direct sunlight will suit them beautifully. Ideal to put in a hanging basket so the stems can cascade down, you can re-pot occasionally with any general compost.

Spider plants also add a seventies retro feel to a room when hung in a macramé plant holders. You can be creative with string and beads and make something individual and fun. They also make good presents.

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A short introduction to basil

jon — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 15:58:42 +0000

Basil is one of the most aromatic and recognisable herbs, and a key ingredient in much Italian cooking. It grows wild in southern Europe, but it actually originated in India, where it’s considered sacred. According to wikipedia, the word basil comes from the Greek ‘basileus’, meaning “king”, as it is believed to have grown above the spot where St. Constantine and Helen discovered the Holy Cross. Like rosemary, it is a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae). It thrives in British soil, however, and does especially well grown in pots on the kitchen windowsill and in greenhouses.

A lot of people are put off from keeping basil after bringing home the plants available in supermarkets and watching them deteriorate in front of their eyes. They can be a bit of a challenge because basil needs a lot of sunshine to really do well. However, it’s worth perservering as having fresh basil leaves is a boon to your kitchen.

£2.99

by Haddons via amazon.com

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Growing basil from seed

jon — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 15:55:55 +0000

As with growing most plants from seed, hedge your bets. You’re not expecting every single seed to produce a whopping great basil plant, so expect to lose some along the way. But if you sow enough seeds, you improve your odds of ending up with at least a couple of plants.

It’s important to start with a good quality compost. You want a nutrient rich soil with good drainage.

Germination

Sow the seeds in April. Sprinkle the seeds onto moist potting compost in a small pot, about 2-3 inches (5cm) wide. Aim for about 5 seeds per pot so they don’t get crowded. Then cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost and leave in a warm place. The seeds should sprout in a couple of weeks.

While the seeds are sprouting, keep them warm and in sunlight. Place the pot in a saucer of water to keep the soil damp. When the small plants are established, take out the smallest two so that you have your three healthiest plants in each pot.

Potting on

The plants are ready to repot again when they have their ‘true’ leaves. Seedlings grow with two small leaves opposite each other, like mini propellers. The true leaves are the ones that develop after this. Wait until the new plants have about 5 true leaves, and they’re a few inches tall, and they’re ready to be potted into their own pot.

Make sure you have a suitable container like a herb planter or window box as these plants need good drainage. The pH of the soil should be slightly acidic to neutral, at least 6.0 and below 7.5. Checking the pH every 4-6 weeks and maintaining the pH with an organic fertiliser will keep it at this level. You probably only need to use this fertiliser at about half the recommended strength to do this. Normally basil isn’t too fussy regarding soil composition but they need a bit more attention when growing indoors. Water the plant regularly and keep the soil moist, but make sure the excess water drains away underneath the pot. Don’t leave plants sat in water or they could rot. If you really want to pamper your plant, use tepid water rather than cold.

To pot plants, gently remove each seedling. Hold the plant by the stem only, and NEVER touch the roots. They are fragile, and often a bit spindly at this stage. Place the seedling in the new pot, in hole deep enough to allow the roots to spread. Tip in compost around the seedling and gently pat the soil down around the plant. Water it in well. If you are putting more than one seedling into a large pot or a winow box, try to allow about 4 inches (10cm) between plants to give them room to grow.

Harvesting the basil

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Tips for healthy basil plants

jon — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 15:51:05 +0000

When basil flowers appear, pinch them off. This encourages the plant to put its energy into producing leaves instead.

It’s difficult to keep basil going in the winter because of the lack of sunshine and chance of frost. Your plant will probably look a bit sorry for itself. However, if you can just keep it alive, give it a pruning and a new pot in the spring, and more than likely the plant will come back as good as ever with the sunshine of spring. You could invest in a growing light if you were keen to keep the same plant, or just grow from seed again in the spring. If you have a productive plant, you could dry some of the leaves, but I would prefer to freeze them as they keep their flavour better.

If there are yellow leaves around the bottom of the plant, it needs more light and hold back on the fertiliser for a bit.

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Common problems with rosemary

jon — Wed, 17 Jun 2009 15:55:26 +0000

Tired looking plant?

Sprinkle some dried, ground up eggshell around the plant on top of the soil. Do this after about a year, and then repeat every year. This will refresh the plant.

White powdery mildew on the surface of the soil?

Rosemary needs good air circulation. Without this, rosemary plants can develop a mildew that looks like a white powder. This is especially common if the air is humid. If this occurs then try and increase the circulation by placing a fan in the room for a few hours a day.

Aphids or spider mites?

Indoor rosemary plants are particularly prone to these. This is easily treated by spraying the plant with an insecticidal soap bought from a garden centre under the plant is healthy again.

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How to take cuttings from rosemary

jon — Wed, 17 Jun 2009 16:51:06 +0000

It’s usually best to take cutting in late autumn or early winter.

Cut a 2 inch stem for new growth on a well established plant. Snip off the bottom leaves rather than pull them off.
Dip the bottom tip into a hormone rooting powder.
Pop the cutting carefully in a pot of dampened peat moss and perlite. Spray the cuttings with a mist of water.

Your new cutting may even take root if you leave it in a glass of water on a sunny windowsill.

The cuttings will take about 2 to 3 weeks to root. You can check if the plant has taken root by gently tugging at the plant, but be careful not to dislodge the plant if it isn’t ready yet!

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Growing rosemary at home

jon — Wed, 17 Jun 2009 16:48:26 +0000

Rosemary is a wonderfully fragrant and useful herb. It’s an evergreen perennial shrub, and a member of the mint (Labiatae) family. Its Latin name Rosmarinus officinalis means ‘dew of the sea’, as in the wild it grows within reach of the sea spray. It’s particularly suited to Mediterranean cooking, and great with meats (particularly lamb, so I’m told) stews, breads, aromatherapy and even tea.

Choosing a rosemary plant

First off, most rosemary plants are clones or ‘cultivars’, which means they’re grown from cuttings. See the post of how to take cuttings from rosemary as this is how you’re getting started. Personally, I’d recommend buying a plant from your local garden centre. They grow quite slowly, so buy the largest one you can afford. I would buy a shrubbery plant as these make fuller houseplants.

Check that there aren’t roots coming through the bottom of the pot when you buy it, as this means the plant has already outgrown the pot.

Run your hand across the needles. It they’re brittle and fall off, don’t buy it. A healthy plant will have supple, springy spines.

How to grow rosemary indoors

As it’s from the Mediterranean, it prefers a sunny position in your home. A sunny south facing windowsill would be perfect. Rosemary will grow well in a window box, but be aware that some types can grow quite high. Be careful in the winter, as rosemary will not tolerate a frost.

A rosemary plant in a pot can make a full, attractive houseplant, that can thrive for years with little care. However, you do have to remember two golden rules. Your plant needs:

1) Sunlight.

2) A well drained soil.

If you’re growing it in a pot indoors, place it near the window to make sure it gets enough sunlight. Rotate the plant about one a week to make sure all sides get some sunlight – this will keep the leaves healthy.

Pot up your new plant with some all purpose plant fertiliser.

Check the new growth on your plant, and aim to harvest about half of the new growth every year. This should keep the plant healthy. You can dry rosemary by leaving it in a warm dark location (like an airing cupboard), or just use it fresh.

It’s easy to overwater rosemary. Check if your plant needs watering by sticking your finger in the soil to a depth of about one inch. If your finger comes out dry, your plant needs watering.

Rosemary plants don’t like to be disturbed or re-potted too often, so don’t re-pot rosemary plants until they are ‘root-bound’. This happens when the plant gets too large for the pot, and the roots are tightly wound in the bottom of the plant pot.

Tips

Fertilise about three times during the summer, but not during the winter.
Pinch the top of your rosemary plant after potting to encourage new leaves and a bushy growth.

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