This holiday has also reminded me that everyday I am fortunate to be surrounded by courageous, inspirational women. They are key to the achievements of ISOS. To give you an idea, I went back and looked through our list of volunteers. It seems that for every 10 volunteers who join Sanuk My Saturday, 8 of them are female. The list didn’t include the all female teaching team, led by Chris, there every weekend. That’s a wake up call for two reasons. First, because I realize I need to do a better job of challenging some guys to come out and commit to helping these kids. They are desperate for the positive male attention they don’t get at home. Secondly, that I’d be an idiot to neglect to wish all the women reading a Happy International Women’s Day and send a sincere thank you for all you do.

-Dwight

Note: This isn’t an exhaustive list by far, as I have only included organizations I have personally worked with.

Sanuk My Saturday – Saturdays – Pinklao/Yommarat

This is the ISOS project teaching English in the slum that you’ve been hearing so much about the last few weeks. I’m trying to round up support for the project which we have expanded to a second location last weekend. For those unfamiliar, you can donate, sign up to volunteer, or read more about what we’re doing in last week’s update.

Little Light Project – Monthly – Victory Monument

Little Light is a special program for students at the Bangkok School for the Blind that encourages them to reach for their hopes and dreams with activities challenging the students to interact and discuss with volunteers. Join the LLP group to get updates and invitations to the sessions. Meet a few of the children in this brief video:

Friends for All Children – M-F – Samsen

FFAC is a home for orphaned infants and toddlers who hope to be adopted. Volunteers are encouraged to come spend time with kids during the week. If you survive feeding and changing time the overwhelming cuteness of these kids will keep you coming back. Visit the FFAC site for more.

SSS Foundation – M-F – Sukumvit 71

Hop off the BTS and a short taxi ride later you’re in a group of buildings used for the recreation and education of many of Bangkok’s children with special needs. Long term volunteers are preferred and will have the opportunity to aide the center with a variety of tasks from teaching English to physical therapy. More in [English] or [Thai]

IDC Visits - Mornings, M-F, Soi Suan Plu

Last year many ISOS volunteers who had been helping at Bangkok’s Refugee Center began getting more involved with visiting the Immigration Detention Center after raids on refugees resulted in many of our students being detained indefinitely. For every volunteer who joins, we are allowed to call one detainee and we use this to allow separated families to spend a few moments together. Volunteers are usually gathered twice a week and bring food, water, and other supplies to the families. Email me at insearchofsanuk@gmail.com to get involved.

“Dream Big, Work Smart, Start Local.”

-Dwight

1. Build strong relationships - This is the most important part of what we’re doing. Why? Because it allows us to assess the specific needs of the families. For example, we found out one of our students not only has trouble paying some of her school fees, but sometimes doesn’t have money for food. So we’re talking about providing scholarships for students in this situation and brainstorming what we can do about larger issues such as alcoholism, gambling and drug abuse that have lead to these circumstances.

2. Fuse learning with fun - This is not a replacement for school, which is free in Thailand. Our role is to reinforce what’s happening at school and to step in where problems like not having money for uniforms or supplies could derail their education. We do that by having a good time while exposing the kids to English, often one on one with an English speaking volunteer. A few hours on a Saturday may not seem like much, unless you consider that most of these children’s parents have never had a meaningful encounter with a foreigner, let alone interact for over an hour. Furthermore, in government schools, they are not likely to have a chance to study English until high school.  If nothing else, I hope all the photo updates I’ve posted of the last few weeks have convinced you we’re enjoying ourselves, but there have been other signs of success also. We’ve seen shy kids initiate activities and watched as over the past seven months the entire group has completely dropped any inhibitions they may have had about foreigners.

3. Engage change makers – This is where the volunteering comes in. We’re making it easy for Bangkok residents and sojourners alike become familiar with these communities and encouraging them to get involved. We plan the teaching, so volunteers mainly need to show up and engage the kids. This is not a hard sell, as other volunteering opportunities in Bangkok are scarce and the kids can be very convincing. Since the start of the program we have hosted about fifty or more volunteers and I’m hoping to get more locals active in the program this year. I want the volunteers to really see that they can make a difference and begin to take more ownership of the program.

Tomorrow will be a challenging day, as we begin to earn the trust of this new community. Not to mention adjusting to teaching new students when a freight train comes through your classroom regularly. However, we are optimistic about growing and constantly improving this program. I appreciate your constructive criticism and continued support. We will definitely be adding to this list of goals as the year goes on.

-Dwight

-Dwight

SANUK MY SATURDAY!

Our journey started from Bangkok with an overnight bus to Chiang Mai, a short flight from there to Mae Hong Song, and finally a sangthaew (think taxi meets the pickup truck) ride to Na Soi, approximately 40 kilometers away. In the calm, scenic hills of Na Soi lies the Na Soi Karenni Refugee Camp, just one of the many camps along the Thai-Burmese border. This particular camp houses around 25,000 ethnic refugees from Burma. While waiting for Moses, a Karenni refugee, to arrive to motorbike us back to our accommodation, we gaze up at a modest temple, once hit by a mortar in a raid on the camp by the SPDC. The Burmese border is a mere six kilometers away, and imagining the Burmese army coming into such a pristine place seemed unthinkable; however, in 1997, 10 people were killed in such an attack. I found myself wondering, how could the Thai government allow the SPDC to enter their country, attack on their soil, and then just leave again?

“We were called to Na Soi by a plea for help. “

We were called to Na Soi by a plea for help. Nu Nu, an elderly Karenni refugee who has been living in the camp since April 1995, has been running an orphanage since 2000. Quite simply, she has run out of money and needs supplies and food. The refugee monthly food allotments are shockingly sparse: 15 kilograms of rice, one kilogram of yellow beans, half a kilogram of salt, and one kilogram of cooking oil. All other food must be bought with their own money. Not allowed to farm, raise livestock except pigs, work, or leave the camp, Nu Nu’s prospects are thin. We entered Nu Nu’s sister’s house, also a refugee who was lucky enough to buy her way out of the camp and into a proper house surrounded by banana trees.

Some of the kids when we first arrived.

In the sparsely furnished great room sat 22 children, ages ranging from four years old to 19 years old, who promptly stood up when we entered. Without introduction, we were given seats, and immediately treated to some songs and speeches prepared by Nu Nu and the children. Their singing, in Karenni and in English, was very good, and very touching (Click here to see a video of the children singing). One song in particular brought tears to my eyes; beneath their lovely harmony was a plea for God not to forget about them. About an hour and a half walk from the camp, the children must walk in small groups of three or four, so as not to attract attention from the police at the checkpoints. If caught outside the camp, the refugees–children included– will be put into jail until a fine of 4000Baht ($120) can be paid, a huge sum for any refugee. Because of the risk involved, they only manage to leave the camp once every two to three months.

“This process is far from perfect–but it’s the only thing the children have to give them hope.”

"She dreams of a different life and wants more education to become a nurse."

This group of orphans have been with Nu Nu for about three months. The previous group has mostly been relocated. Everyone in the new group has UNHCR numbers, and are in various stages of applying for resettlement. However, even if accepted for relocation to Australia, Finland, or the USA, they must wait until they are at least 18 years old. This process is far from perfect–but it’s the only thing the children have to give them hope.

We had the chance to interview some of the children, with the help of Moses for translation. The orphans were a little shy, but one thing rang true: their desire for a better life.

Gay, a 15-year-old girl from the Karen state, is trying to go to Finland. She came to the camp when she was seven years old with her uncle. She has no memory of Burma or her journey to Thailand. All she knows about it is what she has been told. Her father is dead, and her mother stayed in Burma to look after her three younger sisters; she has no contact with her family and does not know what their status is. Gay dreams of a different life in Finland and wants more education to become a nurse.

"She wants what the camps can't offer: freedom."

Htoo is 14 years old, from the Karenni state. She has been with Nu Nu for three years. Her brother came to the camp first, but returned for her when the SPDC attacked her village five years ago. The village was burned and her father forced to become a porter. Porters are forced to carry a lot of weight; if the porter cannot carry the load, they are often beaten and sometimes killed. Porters also are forced to lead the expeditions in order to clear the mines for the soldiers. Htoo says she feels okay in the camp, but wants to go somewhere else because there are not enough facilities, such as higher education. She wants what the camps can’t offer: freedom. Chorest is 19 years old and from the Karen state. He had to flee to Thailand when he was 10 years old because the SPDC burnt his village down. In the rush of the attack, he left with other villagers, leaving his family behind. One of the few children in the orphanage that can remember his escape to Thailand, Chorest recalls walking for one month through the hills of Burma, dodging the SPDC and their guns. With no job opportunities, no freedoms, and no higher education available in the camp, he wants to go abroad and dreams of becoming a doctor. However, if he could choose, he says he would like to legally live and work in Thailand, in order to be closer to his homeland. Sadly, the chances of this happening are slim. He is currently waiting to relocate to the USA.

“Within the orphanage, the past is never discussed…”

"With no job opportunities, no freedoms, and no higher education available in the camp, he wants to go abroad and dreams of becoming a doctor."

Within the orphanage, the past is never discussed, nor, according to Nu Nu, do the children ever cry over their families or their fates. Perhaps this is because many refugees psychologically block out such traumatic experiences. Nu Nu, however, remembers everything. She still remembers vividly December 6, 1980, when the SPDC (then called SLORC), attacked her village, shooting, killing, torturing, and burning as they went. Several people were forced to be porters. She also remembers her father being killed when she was 7 years old. He was driving near their village when he was ambushed by the SLORC and brutally attacked. Almost miraculously, her mother found him and kept him alive for 2 months before he died from the wounds. Nu Nu’s husband was also killed by the SPDC. So what does Nu Nu want? She doesn’t have any illusions about getting out of the camp. But she does want a friendship between the SPDC and the people. While not necessarily supporting tourism in Burma, Nu Nu is calling for foreign investment. She believes that building factories and infrastructure is the way toward a better Burma. And she has a message for Obama too: “Make friends with Burma. Find a way to work things out.”

"Make friends with Burma. Find a way to work things out."

That night we were given wonderful hospitality. They cooked the most delicious foods for us and gave us a place to sleep for the night. I’ve seen it time and again in my travels, but it never fails to amaze me how people with so little willingly give so much for their guests. That night I also began to see Nu Nu’s remarkable love for these children, many of which, she has raised since they were little. As we packed up in the early morning for another long journey back, Nu Nu slipped us a piece of paper. On it was a list of supplies needed, such as bedding, mosquito nets, clothing, dishes, and umbrellas. We all left a small donation and sadly said our goodbyes. Being able to talk to the refugees, look into their eyes and hear their stories is an experience which will stay with me for a long time. While I may not be able right now to change policy, am I able to help make 40 children’s lives better. I hope you can too.

You can donate to Nu Nu through In Search of Sanuk. Just be sure to note that the donation is for Nu Nu. Or, if you would like to make a direct transfer, banking details can be found on the Nu Nu Project’s facebook group. For more information contact Regan Suzuki at regsuzuki@hotmail.com. Thanks for reading and remember:

“Make friends with Burma. Find a way to work things out.”

-Chris

Enjoy the pictures. Next week we’ll be featuring a post from Chris Castellani (our volunteer coordinator in the photo below) detailing her visit to a refugee camp in Northern Thailand.

-Dwight

Welcome to my new classroom. This is a part of Bangkok called Yommarat. The community stretches along the railroad tracks for 3km or more. Like most of the slums and poor communities in this sprawling city, it’s only minutes from major shopping districts and tourist attractions. Occasionally, you do see a drifting foreigner stand at the street and peer curiously into this community. But there’s no welcome sign here. No access by car. And an attentive group of residents I like to refer to as the Neighborhood Watch.

Unlike the first location, here we don’t have the privilege of a neutral location to meet and teach. A quick glance across the tracks from where we’re teaching reminds you of the proximity of people, as you realize you’re looking into someone’s home. I don’t mean to paint a scary picture. If you make it past the Neighborhood Watch, you quickly realize most of the residents are poor, but very hard working. They rise early and return late from the streets and local markets where many sale something. You also notice the neighborhood is full of children. The two biggest groups seem to be the tiny kids wandering about and a loud pack of scrappy, mischievous boys. As in the other community, the kids all attend school, but may not have a chance to study English until they begin secondary school.

We begin our Sanuk My Saturday program teaching here at the end of February. Don’t forget you can donate to this project this month and receive a Big Fish book. I’m already sending books to California and Western Australia, so I’ll be glad to send a copy to anyone else donating $10 or more. Finally, to give you a real sense of the sound and fury of this new community, I have uploaded a rough–mostly unedited clip of me walking around. If you watch you will hear me asking questions about where the kids can play. That gets interrupted (wait until you see why). Next, they take me to see a pretty pitiful play area that the kids can use. The most interesting part, however, is all the people I pass on the way. Take a look below (or go to the video by clicking here):

“Dream Big. Work smart. Start Local.”

-Dwight

There we joined the Little Light Project by playing games, snacking, singing and dancing together.

The next photo is with a student named Daw, expressing her gratitude to everyone who participated. On the far right is the founder of LLP, Prae Sunantaraks. Join her group on facebook to learn more about their project or join the next activity. I’m very proud of this photo with them, except that it was taken while I wasn’t wearing my clown nose.

After lunch was Sanuk My Saturday, where we celebrate being child-like weekly and teach English (yes, in that order).

In the community we teach in, the smallest students are the ones who have the best attendance. Luckily, we are joined by great volunteers who are ready to help even when we change our plan to teach at the last minute to better engage the kids who come.

This week we begin an art project making a book called Big Fish. Big Fish is short story for kids about love and companionship that anyone will enjoy reading. The book is an original work written and illustrated by ISOS volunteer Lola Rainey to help us fundraise.

Until the end of February, when you donate $10 or more online you will receive a free copy that has been colored and autographed by the kids from Sanuk My Saturday.

Thanks for reading. In the next update I will share more about our plans to expand the program into another slum community in Bangkok.

-Dwight

Contemplating what’s been accomplished is difficult to do without being honest about what’s still to be done. Some of last year’s challenges are still ambitious goals this year. I’ll update you on my vision for the year and invite you to comment and offer suggestions. The changes are a result of the goals I’ve set after becoming more mature about my scale and focus in the last year.

[Pioneering Volunteering in Bangkok]

By far, the major focus this year will be taking the lead in providing access to volunteering opportunities for people living, working or sojourning in Bangkok. This will be both through making more reliable, high quality information available and through our own volunteering project. After six months of the Sanuk My Saturday program, we will expand the project to another slum community at the end of February. I have already made several visits to the new location. There will be many new challenges that come with starting over, but the community there is eager to have their children participate.

[Smalltime Big]

Last year, I set out to promote urban gardening in Bangkok. While this was an idea many people loved, it never took root far beyond the beginning phase. This happened for a few different reasons that are more clear in hindsight. Most importantly, the price of food in Thailand, despite the recession, has remained fairly cheap. Unlike the US, Europe, and many other cities where people are scurrying to create alternative food sources, the public demand that has created change in those places doesn’t exist here. This really played itself out when the ngos I wanted to partner with put this idea on the back-burner or attempted to change it from a gardening project to a beautification project.

So one of the frustrations from last year was spinning my wheels trying to get this project going to no avail. I’ve decided instead of trying to convince the entire city to do something they have no clue about, I’m going to spend this year investing time in my own little corner. The remaining funding will support the volunteering project where we’ll be creating more awareness about caring for the environment, conservation, and do it yourself gardening in the communities we’re already working. We’ll be incorporating these ideas into the curriculum for Sanuk My Saturday and special events we’re designing to unite our the communities around being more green.

[Hands on Homelessness]

At the end of 2009, I received some funding to gather information about the homeless in Bangkok from a group called Hands on Helping. Since then I’ve begun hanging around some places many Bangkok residents try to avoid even in the daytime, interviewing people and genuinely trying to understand their situations. This has already made the beginning of 2010 exciting in various ways I’ll report more on later (with some video footage I’m working on too).

[Overachiever Goals]

More wish list goals that I’ll take a crack at this year:

• [Sponsorship] It costs about $75 per month to run our project in one location. With the expansion to a new location, it will be important for me to spend more time finding sponsors who believe in what we’re doing and agree to help support us financially. My goal is to get as many months this year sponsored as possible. You can help by contributing on our donation page. Thanks to Thrilling Heroics for entirely sponsoring Sanuk My Saturday last month.
• [Work More With the Elderly] With the big focus on kids, this is an area I haven’t delved too far into. However I’ll be looking for more opportunities to do more this year. Most of the inspiration comes directly from my mentor, Marc Gold, who has spent a considerable time aiding neglected elderly people in poor countries. Take a look at the video of him helping Papa Tak, a 70 year old man living in a dump in Sulawesi, Indonesia.
• [Go Native] I’m already fluent in colloquial Thai and can even manage most intermediate reading a writing. However, all of that is not enough for all I hope to accomplish. So in addition to maintaining good relationships with people already committed to our project, I need to spend more time recruiting more local Thai volunteers. My goal is to eventually have so many Thai volunteers that there’s a sense of co-ownership among everyone participating whether local or international.
• [More Dirty Work] There are really some people I’ve been lucky enough to come across who I’d consider on the front lines battling some issues that can’t be too openly discussed. I want to do more to help this year. Mostly I mean the people who are dedicated to helping minority groups and refugees. They are often the most needy and most difficult to help because there is little awareness or understanding about their plight.

#10 – Painting

Confession: I didn’t paint anything.

All of the art was done by refugees living in Bangkok. This was the first big In Search of Sanuk project of 2009 and gave us a big running start for the year. We raised almost 60,000 baht for the Bangkok Refugee Center and had travel photographer Gavin Gough there to document it. For a look back see his photo blog: Picture from my mind” Art Exhibition in aid of the Bangkok Refugee Centre

Hindsight: We didn’t know at the time how much of a difference we were making. Unfortunately, a lot of 2009 was a rough year for refugees here as arrests have increased and services decreased.

#9 – Writing

Confession: This was very hit and miss.

The lesson here is perseverance–something I’m still learning.  I’m lucky to have a had a great encouragement in the way of an awesome community of bloggers Cody Mckibben has introduced me to. Everyone has been really welcoming and willing to share advice. I don’t take that for granted. Not everyone will invite you into their community when your ideas are unconventional.

Hindsight: One milestone was getting a chance to write an article for Cnngo. However, blogging is hard work and it took me a while to find my voice. The biggest challenge is balancing all you’re doing, with keeping people who care about your cause informed and involved.

#8 – Dating Miss Universe

Confession: This doesn’t actually happen until December 28th.

You thought I would quit after meeting Michelle Yeoh earlier this year? Nope. This time I’ve won an auction for a date with Natalie Glebova, Miss Universe 2005. Proceeds from the auction, of course, are going to build a medical clinic in Mae Sot near the Burma border. It’s a tough job I have, but I can’t complain!

Foresight: This really exemplifies what kind of random episodes which spring up when you’re willing to extend yourself for worthy causes. Whatever happens on this date, it’s already been successful. Through all the communicating with the organizers, I have already gotten a commitment from them to donate medicine to get all the kids at our teaching project checked up. Sorry Natalie, but that made me jump up and down a little more than the dinner plans.

#7 – Traveling

Confession: I now am in the habit of going somewhere and looking for ways to help. You don’t have to travel to do that.

When I first met my mentor, Marc Gold, the idea of traveling to do good was still novel to me. This year I have met and joined quite a few traveling philanthropists. I hope this is a sign that there is a growing trend of people realizing how rewarding it can be to spend your holiday helping others. Some memories that stick out are the slum kids in Denpasar, a restaurant employing street kids in Vientienne, teaching in the Thai countryside, visits to orphanages in Bali and on the border of Burma.

Hindsight: You can go looking for trouble, but you may not be prepared for what you find.

#6 Drinking

Confession: I wish I had been told earlier that you can sure sculpt a nice event, but it’s better to build a strong community.

Through both the Bangkok Tweetup and a larger party we organized this year called LUSH, we have really pioneered the idea of cause focused events in Bangkok. Some people come out for a great cause. Some people come out for a great party. Most people come for the community that enjoys both. In any case, we don’t discriminate. In addition to funneling money to our Sanuk My Saturday project and numerous other groups, we’re well known in the city for breaking bar records and having to send our sad faced supporters home after cleaning out all the spirits.

Hindsight: This was a great idea because we casually exposed people to our project that we couldn’t otherwise drag to come volunteer with us. Yes, you can reach people with something besides gala dinners in the grand ballroom.

#5 Basketball

Confession: No unwanted stress ever came from the little people. It’s the big ones I have trouble dealing with.

Some where along the road in these shenanigans a friend offered tickets to see the Harlem Globetrotters. The Globetrotters hadn’t been to Bangkok since the sixties and I saw them perform in Atlanta when I was about twelve. So I got to feel kinda like a dad when I showed up at the arena with kids from our teaching project in tow. We had a section of the arena reserved for us (the other group they did this for was the US embassy) and all the volunteers who also tagging along.

Hindsight: This would not have been possible without all the people who attended the Bangkok Tweetup, drank and gave. The tickets were free, but we had to cover transportation, snacks and dinner for all the kids.

#4 Tweeting

Confession: Any meal is a happy meal. I can do gourmet too.

Cnngo caught up with me eating on the street earlier this year to tell the city who hasn’t caught on to twitter what you already knew— that I’m addicted to the internet and volunteering. Take a look at the article: Bangkok’s fun-seeking, volunteering, tweeting American

Hindsight: A more accurate headline would have been Bangkok’s handsome, single, fun seeking internet addict volunteers to be attacked by kids whenever he leaves the house.

#3 Thrilling The World

Confession: I’m not to blame for this one!

I had just finished the Twestival global event, when In Search of Sanuk supporter Lola Rainey said we had to learn the moves to Thriller. In true zombie form, I admittedly dragged my feet at first. Lola, however, took the reigns and round up a great group of dancers to not only participate in breaking the world record for largest simultaneous dance, but also perform in front of hundreds (zombies keep their cool even when the wrong music is played haha), raising over $1,000 for the Bangkok Refugee Center. A touching moment in this adventure was when another friend, Shimona Kee performed Michael Jackson’s Heal the World in front of a huge audience at Bangkok’s Central World.

Hindsight: Surround yourself with change makers and don’t pout too much if they put you to work.

#2 Booty Shaking

Confession: I thought my butt would be more famous by now.

The reason this one is ranked so high is because of the sheer spontaneity of it. I led a group of volunteers from visiting an elderly home to relax in the park. It was there that we stumbled over one man’s magic hips and captured what we still secretly hope will make us youtube stars one day (only 3,000 views so far). So it didn’t make my butt famous, but it is the one moment that has generated more laughter than any other this year.

Hindsight: Should have found the man in that video and invited him to some of our parties.

#1 Begging

Confession: I couldn’t have done any of this without you.

In 2009 I beg, borrowed, and generally pestered people I’m close to. This really runs the gamut from convincing Cody to get involved, to asking Shimona to sing in front of hundreds, to getting an entire section of the arena reserved for our kids and volunteers. Forget the amount of money we raised. We have really challenged people’s thinking about what it means to give back and surprised some needy groups with funding that wouldn’t have otherwise reached them. People are beginning to believe they have something to contribute. That’s powerful. For that I thank everyone following along and on the ground here participating.

Hindsight: If you can’t convince your friends, who then?