In My Professional Opinion

Spotlight: Yaby Cosmetics

2012-01-09T17:56:00.000-08:00

Probably the best perk of working in the film and television industry as a makeup artist is meeting other professionals in your field. You bond over being a freelancer, seeking advice on upcoming projects, products that work and don't and you share techniques and tips that improve your current skill level.

A few years ago, this Pro was lucky enough to meet a lady I had admired for a very long time. I had known of her reputation for being an outstandingly talented MUA through colleagues and because I had seen her published work. What I didn't know was that she was a kind, generous and compassionate person who would always be available to help bounce around creative ideas or provide advice on a shoot.

Liz Yu with world renowned makeup artist, Roshar and his model at IMATS NYC

Liz Yu became a makeup artist because of her obsession with flawless skin and naturally, that became her trademark. Basing out of Toronto, Canada, Liz has worked on many beauty, fashion, lifestyle, and film and television projects. I learned quickly after meeting Liz that we would become good friends. She is also an amazing effects artist and somehow she found the time during her career to make and manufacture a professional cosmetic line that is a staple in most professional kits.

Her product line is called Yaby Cosmetics and she launched her range in 2007. With an extensive color line for the eyes, lips, cheeks and face, this product is so highly pigmented you will appreciate the immediate pay off without having to reload your makeup brush. Her colors blend evenly and are so finely milled that they work into the skin with very little effort.

Yaby Cosmetics blew me away because at first, I doubted that a little tiny pan of eye shadow could provide me with such amazing quality. O ye of little faith! I should have trusted the fact that, as a professional, Liz knows exactly what products we need to have in our kits and the fact that those products need to work! She spent so much time, money and effort on this line in order to bring it to professionals, as well as consumers that I almost wanted to argue with her over the insanely affordable price!

This Pro has a huge range of products from Yaby Cosmetics in both my HDTV/Film beauty kit and my FX kit. Just one of Yaby's pre-filled eye shadows palettes contains 40 colors and I love her lip palettes because they contain 20 of the most wearable colors around and you can easily mix the colors together for a custom look.

Liz even made it easy to depot your collection of tube lipstick and put them into empty pans, which she sells and then pop them into an empty Yaby palette. No longer do we need to carry around tons of tubes in our kits and the palettes make it easy to coordinate colors for quicker application. You won't be digging around your kit, pulling off caps trying to find the lipstick color you need for that big shoot!

Same goes for eye shadows, cheek colors, powder foundations and concealers. All of these products come in pre-filled Yaby palettes or you can make your own! Plus, this line's foundations, cream and liquid, are beautiful. They blend smoothly and won't cake on the skin for a natural appearance or confidently build up the coverage with several applications if you need without the worry of a “heavy” makeup look!

Yaby Cosmetics also has a line of skin correctors and concealers, brow colors and cake liners, which this Pro uses on every single shoot. My team of makeup artists also carry an extensive array of Yaby in their kits! We wouldn't be caught dead without them on set! This line is completely customizable and the palettes are magnetic, which keeps our kits diverse and filled with color, while keeping volume to a minimum!

Yaby also makes it easy to keep a beautiful range of color in my personal makeup bag too, which means I can easily change up my look from day to night without lugging a bunch of makeup with me in my handbag!

Below are a few pictures from Yaby's color line, as well as a YouTube video from IMATS Toronto 2011 posted by MakeupTalk.com.

You can purchase Yaby directly from their website at www.YabyCosmetics.com or online from Camera Ready Cosmetics at www.camerareadycosmetics.com.

For more info on Yaby Cosmetics visit their Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/yabycosmetics featuring more photos from magazine shoots, adverts and gorgeous makeups by Roshar!

All photos courtesy of: Yaby Cosmetics.

Hairtastic!

2011-11-12T10:05:00.001-08:00

The Pros here at IMPO have not reported on many hair products because we are not licensed hairstylists, but in our world we do have to work on hair behind-the-scenes and sometimes create styles, change styles and provide actors with products.

We usually work alongside a "real" hairstylist and they take care of the heavy work, then we refresh or tweak styles as the film day progresses. On big budget shoots there is always money for many people on the makeup and hair crew, but on medium to low budget productions it is typically asked that there be one person in charge of the entire department.

When the Pros are presented with a hair challenge, we turn to our bag of tricks that is ever growing and changing however, there are a few items that we keep in this kit that will be with us forever because, to put it very simply, they just work.

Barbar Italy 4800 Ionic Blow Dryer - we used to be very intimidated by the words "blow out!" We never knew just how long it was going to take us and we found that, even though we were fully trained in performing a blow out, our arms, shoulders, hands and wrists tired quickly and the process took longer than we liked. The Pros went on a worldly search for a better, more efficient hairdryer and we found Barbar products this past year. This dryer is so lightweight and sized perfectly to fit into a hair kit without massive bulk. It's got 2000 WATTS of power, which cuts drying time in half. It has multiple heat settings and is the perfect product for a Pro or novice.

Barbar 1800 Ceramic Cordless Flat Iron 1" - in the hair and makeup trailer there is very little space to break out insane amounts of hair tools. You need to be organized and work quickly. This flat iron heats up so fast up to 392F and is cordless. You can use it off the base for approximately 8 minutes without recharging. We love it because it straightens hair quickly without damage and we never have to worry about being tangled up in the cord! Barbar also makes a duo tourmaline cordless flat and curling iron called the Bar 1900.

Enzo Milano Clipless Curling Iron 1/2" - recently the Pros had to create a style that called for very small, tight curls that needed to last! Last year, this type of challenge would have had us shaking in our boots, but this year we found this curling iron and knew that we would be able to make perm like spirals in record time! This product gives a constant heat that will not damage hair.

The Batiste Collection - before we start a style change or if an actor/actress is coming in with already dried or "dirty" hair, we reach for our stash of Batiste Dry Shampoo. This product is the workhorse in our hair kit and our clients love it! Not only does it come in a variety of scents, including the new "Fresh" unisex smell that instantly leaves the hair feeling clean and refreshed, Batiste comes in travel sizes perfect for on-the-go or in our case, in the actor bags we take to set.

The Pros have tried many other expensive dry shampoo lines and even those that are specifically made for colored hair (blondes, brunettes or red heads) and we have found that the Batiste line is best. The colored dry shampoos left stains on our hands, on our actor's face and wardrobe and they were difficult to manipulate, but with the Batiste line, we never need worry. Plus, Batiste is sold everywhere from the grocery store to the pharmacy! The "Original" and "Blush" scents are also in our kit and we have found that our actors love to use them off the set too!

Kevin Murphy Products - if you have never heard of Kevin Murphy then you need to stop reading this post and Google his name now! He is a hair genius and has developed an entire line of amazing hair products. He is the one who invented the iconic "beach hair" look that can been seen on the pages of Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Edition, Marie Claire, Vanity Fair, Instyle...well, you get the picture.

Also, Kevin cares about the environment and collaborated with Al Gore's leadership program, The Climate Project, which works toward change at the grassroots level. All of his products use paper packaging that is made from post consumer waste and are recyclable. This means a lot to the Pros because we have a strict paper-less rule on some of our sets and recycle bins are everywhere throughout.

Recently, we tried the Hydrate-Me Wash and the Hydrate-Me Rinse, which totally changed the texture of our over processed hair! It's gentle enough to use daily and will not weigh the hair down or make it look greasy. It tames our naturally curly hair and helps to control fly aways!

If you want to recreate Kevin's beach waves he created a product specifically designed to texturize the hair called Hair.Resort - this product will give you that instant messy beach look on long and fine hair.

Check out this instructional podcast featuring Kevin and his tips on how to use the product and achieve the beach look:

Straight.Defence - this product is a weightless heat protecting straightening balm. We use this product prior to a blow out because it provides major heat protection and helps to remove curl.

The Pros need help in the natural curls department because our hair instantly frizzes! Motion.Lotion controls frizz and enhances curls. It can be used on wet or dry hair as a finisher.

When we need to create texture or choppy looks on short hair, we turn to Night.Rider to provide hold. This product is matte and works great on men's styles.

To create major body we use Body.Builder, a lightweight volumising mousse that is flexible, but with just the right amount of hold. Use prior to blow-drying.

Powder.Puff is also a great product to use to create volume. It is a powder that you shake into the hair along a part line. Then tussle the hair with your fingertips to create texture and major volume. The Pros use this product in lieu of teasing the hair, which can be damaging.

Check out Kevin's how-to podcast below:

If you want to have some fun with color, Color.Bug is a wipe on; wash out product that gives intense color in seconds. Use it on your entire head or just the tips. It's safe and gentle color that is available in Pink, Orange or Purple.

The Kevin Murphy line also has entire range of Shampoos, Conditioners, Treatments, Styling Products and Tools available to the professional and consumer. Plus Kevin Murphy also provides education that range from basic to advanced hair classes. For more information visit www.kevinmurphy.com.au.

We hope this post was useful and if you have tried any of the products listed above, please leave a comment. We love to hear from you.

To the Rescue...by Pro Cathi Singh

2011-10-30T08:45:00.000-07:00

Halloween is right around the corner and the Pros at IMPO have been trying to figure out a good post to write without boring our readers with the same old "how-to" information! Seriously, how many times can we write about Vampire, Zombie and Witch makeup and keep our savvy audience interested?

Pro MUA Cathi Singh, remembered a cool makeup/costume challenge she was given on a recent shoot and thought that our readers would not only get a kick out of some behind-the-scenes views, but that maybe someone one out there needed an idea for a costume that is totally unique and original! So, if you waited until the very last minute and now all the cool Halloween costume ideas are gone, then read on and let the Pros help you discover your inner Superhero!

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Sometimes in the makeup world, we are not given alot of time to research and prepare for a project, and have to think on our feet for a quick solution. Such was the case for me a few weeks ago. One of my long-time corporate clients called with a big idea that involved hair, makeup and costuming; only thing was, we had a day and a half to accomplish it before the print deadline!

They needed a superhero custom made for their company.

Initially they wanted to purchase a superhero costume and make simple tweeks. But at the end of the day, it still felt like we were playing dress up. There is a fine line between corny and cool and we were walking it.

I called around and researched some body suits, and came across a costume shop with a large inventory. After picking their brains via phone the idea for liquid latex was suggested. Knowing that my creative director loves to push the envelope visually, I quickly presented the idea (and the pros and cons). He jumped at the idea and I purchased the kit and paint sight unseen. Now, I normally would not do this, for obvious reasons - needing to test it on camera, get to know the product, etc, but I was on location for another project and could not get to the store due to distance. I did extensive research online and with the costume shop owner, who was very familiar with the product. I did bring some costumes with me as a back up if the latex did not present well.

A few key things to remember before starting a latex paint project:

Make sure your model is not allergic to latex or ammonia or aloe vera gel. All of these things will be painted directly onto their skin and will need to be worn for at least 5 hrs (the amount of time it takes to paint the body).
Get permission beforehand from the agent, model and company you are working for. The model needs to be ok with shaving their ENTIRE body and standing for at least 5 hrs. The latex paint also has a strong odor and you will need ample space and air circulation to work in.
Get a tarp, wear something you don’t care about ruining (latex stains clothing)

As a base coat, you need to apply an aloe vera gel or moisturizer to the entire painting surface. The latex will seem tight at first, but as the body naturally warms to it, it will become pliable and move with the model.

Note: Once you apply the aloe vera gel, also check that your model is wearing an anti-perspirent. As we learned, too much condensed moisture under the latex causes it to stay very tacky, catch on itself, and potentially make holes in that area.

I did not wear gloves, but you can if you wish. We started with the chest, and did one full coat from shoulder to waist. The first layer is very light and had streaks from the brush. Don’t worry about those, they will disappear with the next few coats.

I then moved to this sides and then his back and painted those while the chest dried. After each layer, it is imperative that you completely dry the latex with a blow dryer before applying the next layer.

After his midsection had two coats on it, I moved to his arms. Its important while the latex is wet that the model not bend their arms or torso, as the latex will stick to itself.

I let the second coat dry completely before applying 3 more coats. The instruction say to get a truly opaque color, 3-5 coats is needed. Because the lighting of our shot involved some extremely bright spotlights, we applied 5 coats so it would be a very bold, dark finish. My paint kit came with a specialized foam brush pack for $10. I highly recommend buying two, as I went through 4 different brushes, two of them the small body rollers.

Once dry, closely inspect the entire surface. This is the time for final corrections, layers, etc. This would also be a good time to apply any decals, logos or designs in a different color.

The last step is to apply the Shine Seal Spray. This product dulls the tacky finish latex has and allows for smooth movement. It also adds a dramatic and glossy finish that makes it look like skin. Because this product contains silicone, once applied, you cannot paint latex over it. It is your final seal. We tried to add more to a small area of his arm, and it dulled the black to a matte gray finish, and made the texture visibly rougher.

We equipped our superhero with gloves, boots, and knee braces. I also painted a mask on his face using waterproof liner. He was able to bend, jump, and move like a superhero without any difficultly. The latex stretched like a second skin.

For removal, it’s best to rinse with warm water and soap. Our model had some baby hairs that he did not shave and it made the removal process more difficult and slightly painful. The latex will peel in small sections off the skin. If it gets into the hair, remove with baby oil. (Do not remove like the photo below is showing - that was just for fun behind-the-scenes photos).

The end result was a huge success, and the images were very heroic. Best of all, I was able to produce the exact idea my client wanted, and in record time!

This taught me that you can find tools and unique items in unexpected places. Think outside the box, and venture beyond the makeup store to a costume shop, art supply or craft store.

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There are several brands of Liquid Latex Body Makeup on the market. Brand X and Graftobian make them as well as other manufacturers. Do your research and call around to various stores before purchasing.

Remember, this idea is not just for Halloween, you could also wear it to show team spirit at a sporting event, during Mardi Gras or another fun event like a parade or Burning Man! Any place where you want to show off your own originality! Plus, it's expensive to rent, make or purchase a full costume, but using a product like Liquid Latex Body Makeup makes your dreams way more affordable!

The Pros hope this information was useful and we wish everyone a very Safe and Happy Halloween!