tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28045103551907210092024-02-06T18:29:38.920-08:00Hub's iDarkroomHubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.comBlogger31125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-33595623932861025872009-07-31T00:19:00.000-07:002009-07-31T00:48:59.139-07:00See Hub's Images They Way They Were Intended - In Print<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://magcloud.com/browse/issue/25346"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 302px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5VgQlp-uPQq0d8Tp1xPrXHUaYPmPPr6LquXZss97PVOTtbOiqKSiPpNXYKl1xz1ws91CKpZAHY_x-JErt2UrlQYfnzXNzLEvFs6RGTjeb392tB87ZcetSSa0mJifQdM2BZsYKYADXRGk/s400/Hub's-Magazine_cover.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364521267639635474" border="0" /></a><br />I'm frequently asked if the images I use in my educational blogs and live classes can be purchased. I have resisted selling my images because I was concerned about affordability. I print all my images. Consequently each print is expensive, exacting and intended to meet the standards of a gallery print. As a result, the cost of prints might be out of reach for the readers I attempt to help in my digital photography blogs.<br /><br />I recently discovered a solution that makes it possible to provide an economical way for students to see my images in a larger print form and also allow the modest collector a convenient way of purchasing fine art prints. The result is a professionally printed catalog, <span style="font-style: italic;">Hub's Imagery</span> <span style="font-style: italic;">- By Popular Demand</span>, containing enlarged versions of 21 of my most often requested and favorite images. <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">The catalog cost less than $20.</span> For those interested in owning any of my fine art images, the catalog also contains details for ordering individual prints on-line.<br /><br />If you are interested in learning more, seeing a catalog preview or ordering the catalog, click <a href="http://magcloud.com/browse/issue/25346"><span style="font-weight: bold;">here</span></a>. I hope you will enjoy this series of images as much as I enjoyed putting the catalog together.Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-51964907187514566182009-06-07T23:36:00.000-07:002009-06-08T12:52:32.189-07:00Part 24b - White Balancing in the iDarkroomIn <a href="http://hubsidarkroom.blogspot.com/2009/05/part-24a-white-balancing-in-idarkroom.html"><span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Part 24a - White Balancing in the iDarkroom</span></a>, the concepts of "neutrality" in color and "known reference" were explained. Pretty exciting stuff. Right? If you have not read Part 24a, take the time now. It will make this discussion much easier to follow and understand.<br /><br />Using these concepts, it's possible to apply white balancing in the iDarkroom to control precisely the color rendition of any image. <span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Precise color in photographic terms means that colors in the print or on the monitor appear just as they would if seen under standard sunlight conditions.</span><br /><br />In terms of "neutrality", when a true gray object is viewed under normal sunlit conditions, the individual Red, Green and Blue values are identical. If they are not the same, then the gray object exhibits a color bias or "tint". The object of white balancing is to adjust the individual RGB color values of the known neutral reference until all three colors have the same numeric values -- a true gray.<br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic; FONT-WEIGHT: bold">When we allow the computer to adjust a "known reference" to its neutral values, our imaging software can automatically apply this same numeric color correction to every pixel in the image. Like magic, the entire image becomes color balanced based on one "known reference".</span><br /><br />But there are almost "known references" and then there are real "known references". This would be a good time for some examples and some helpful pictures.<br /><br /><span style="COLOR: rgb(0,153,0); FONT-WEIGHT: bold">(Blog pictures can appear small. Clicking on any of the following images will produce a larger version to save your eyesight.)</span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">An "almost" known reference</span><br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR5BURZlG-6b4HqfiBXWyIZ1LirmjOCWlVF89sWg_ppo8Wr3OwQxqOdH4kh8znrVZOcs6zDliMZFffEqmG7KxSLyUPZ-Px3kwsvOblQ2llg-dmgwYeJJxfX39hWaQyNcHLcLJFrezrSQE/s1600-h/WB-2421.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 269px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344804999674330898" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR5BURZlG-6b4HqfiBXWyIZ1LirmjOCWlVF89sWg_ppo8Wr3OwQxqOdH4kh8znrVZOcs6zDliMZFffEqmG7KxSLyUPZ-Px3kwsvOblQ2llg-dmgwYeJJxfX39hWaQyNcHLcLJFrezrSQE/s400/WB-2421.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 1 - Camera white balance set to daylight, light source incandescent table lamp</span></span><br /></div><br />The Figure 1 image was taken with a DSLR set on a white balance of "daylight". However, the light source was a table lamp using a standard incandescent light bulb. The result is a picture containing far too much yellow. We'll correct the color rendition in post processing using both Photoshop and Lightroom 2. But to make the needed correction, a "known reference" point is required. A point in this picture where we know the color should be a true neutral (where the red, green and blue values are equal).<br /><br />We learned in Part 24a that all true shades of gray from pitch black to pure white have red, green and blue values that are equal. Our first task is to find a neutral color in this picture. This is tough, but there is one small area that appears to be a very bright white.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiYWhGaqJA1MVpa78RCgnkXT1LyqReycivkETnO4m6AMkhL61liT_N-uZEnxTpymvB5PCDxh8Z1EPQILzR5g1w4fmng-4xRWb-SIMPNpohZiqxTLKjvLvbFN9hCzpCkAyyB4I9cPgVlEU/s1600-h/WB-2421_WhiteThread.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 269px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344808244266368514" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiYWhGaqJA1MVpa78RCgnkXT1LyqReycivkETnO4m6AMkhL61liT_N-uZEnxTpymvB5PCDxh8Z1EPQILzR5g1w4fmng-4xRWb-SIMPNpohZiqxTLKjvLvbFN9hCzpCkAyyB4I9cPgVlEU/s400/WB-2421_WhiteThread.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic; COLOR: rgb(102,0,0)">Figure 2 -- "Almost" known reference shown in yellow circle</span></span><br /></div><br />The small area of the decorative ball shown in the yellow circle of Figure 2 appears to be made of white thread. That's a good thing. Photoshop can use this as a reference point. And here's how.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3OvSeHIx5MOAIaknmKcVSN-SPaMCIk4ZrqYbSuj7zBEPxavxELwRDllCQhuCodztMz4eOe3pXVoXWZ3C-Z_VlX0NqBOc_6Csj0YW8knHqID3GT3-MdY_5Zk8fQCw6eeaTkAYotGXlRuU/s1600-h/Manual_WB_Photoshop.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 208px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344809183051073378" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3OvSeHIx5MOAIaknmKcVSN-SPaMCIk4ZrqYbSuj7zBEPxavxELwRDllCQhuCodztMz4eOe3pXVoXWZ3C-Z_VlX0NqBOc_6Csj0YW8knHqID3GT3-MdY_5Zk8fQCw6eeaTkAYotGXlRuU/s400/Manual_WB_Photoshop.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 3 -- Using Photoshop's "Levels" command to adjust white balance.</span></span><br /></div><br />Figure 3 shows our picture in Photoshop with the "Levels" command window open. Below the "Options" button are 3 eyedropper icons. These are the tools for color balancing. The three droppers from left to right are black, gray and white. The dropper selected is determined by the area chosen as the known reference. In this case, I selected the white eye dropper (inside the green circle) because I will be applying the color correction adjustment to a known white reference point in the picture.<br /><br />I click on the white eye dropper to select it. Then I click on my known white reference (the white thread inside the red circle in Figure 3). Zap. It's done. Not only was my white reference point corrected to a neutral white, but every other pixel that makes up this image was automatically adjusted with the same color correction. Compare the color in Figures 2 and 3. Lightroom has a similar "eye dropper" white balance tool.<br /><br />So that's it? If only it were that simple.<br /><br />Remember, I said this is an "almost" known reference example. It works, and I use it frequently. It's a "good enough" solution for most situations. But, it is not an exact white balance color correction.<br /><br />The reason is because the thread in this picture -- like every other color that we perceive as neutral -- isn't exactly neutral. If we could analyze the color of the thread that was used as our white balance reference point, it would not be a true neutral white. It would have some color bias (or tint). So, when I corrected the thread to a true neutral white with the "eye dropper" tool, I forced it to become a white that wasn't true to the real world color of the thread. For many, this is good enough.<br /><br /><span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">A "Real" known reference</span><br /><br />When color rendition is critical, there is a simple solution. A solution that has been used by photographers for decades. PLACE A KNOWN REFERENCE IN THE PICTURE.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8G_F2NHYZQ76ZCx8b6V4U2yw-Kp7YT3Ep0YvZmRy2MZr2ETc4lyQwVZTZT1HToV47dS687afX5a5QMvN8enezZrqmZ_yWaR3_PZkJWmO6o5LevorQuLK97cPsWy8FnvXjpdjapa8IpLc/s1600-h/WB.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 81px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344804998100089314" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8G_F2NHYZQ76ZCx8b6V4U2yw-Kp7YT3Ep0YvZmRy2MZr2ETc4lyQwVZTZT1HToV47dS687afX5a5QMvN8enezZrqmZ_yWaR3_PZkJWmO6o5LevorQuLK97cPsWy8FnvXjpdjapa8IpLc/s400/WB.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 4 - Kodak Color Control Patches Chart</span></span><br /></div><br />All we need is something we can place in the frame of the picture that we know is absolutely accurate in color. Figure 4 shows one of these standards. This Kodak Color Control Patch chart contains colors of known color values. The black, gray and white on this chart are totally neutral. They are our "known references". If we could "eye dropper" one of these colors in Photoshop or Lightroom, then correct white balance would be assured.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqFsGuGOa_mEAbtFUtC3zPR3K8FkLDZXtBf64-9z3xi-MF1ZWNlzOfTRbaA0vROuOeEUXMvFVNbq3CGN9V_f2toVuYjBBs3TpcwzqJBGdoH5oqL_nIJdWZifzIN62xx9WuufqFRKeD9xI/s1600-h/WB-2420.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 269px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344815523746740274" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqFsGuGOa_mEAbtFUtC3zPR3K8FkLDZXtBf64-9z3xi-MF1ZWNlzOfTRbaA0vROuOeEUXMvFVNbq3CGN9V_f2toVuYjBBs3TpcwzqJBGdoH5oqL_nIJdWZifzIN62xx9WuufqFRKeD9xI/s400/WB-2420.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic; COLOR: rgb(102,0,0)">Figure 5 - Original picture with Kodak reference chart included</span></span><br /></div><br />Figure 5 shows the original picture again. Only this time the Kodak chart has been added to the scene. (I know. Having the chart in the picture isn't something most people would want to frame and hang in their living rooms. I'll take care of that issue later.) But the picture now contains a white that we know is truly white in reality.<br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Note: The Kodak chart shown here is only one type of reference that can be bought at your local camera shop. Many photographers use a commercially produced gray card. This 8 inch by 10 inch card is a single solid 18% gray in color on one side and pure white on the other side. For white balancing, either type of card works well.</span> <span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Remember to use the appropriate "eye dropper" tool when white balancing in Photoshop.</span><br /><br />However, one complicating factor to our white balancing process by using this reference card is that WE DON'T WANT THE CARD TO APPEAR IN OUR FINAL PICTURE. So, when taking the picture in Figure 5, take a second picture with the reference card REMOVED. The plan is to correct the picture with the reference card to a perfect white balance, and THEN apply the same correction to our second picture with the card removed. But, how is this done?<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQlY7vxmIERSS4L-eSCjG20pLCIzue1-bx8AYQBwLC_t69eBRbXe5ziyiGKvTG3zVvoOJlQAwbzKr_DJylSoJf9dzn0qL81WsETBlouL93yDtYTYCdyzbsJtTMFXZqLXDRbYJRB3O8GQ/s1600-h/WKodakRef_WB_Photoshop.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 382px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344819272184573730" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQlY7vxmIERSS4L-eSCjG20pLCIzue1-bx8AYQBwLC_t69eBRbXe5ziyiGKvTG3zVvoOJlQAwbzKr_DJylSoJf9dzn0qL81WsETBlouL93yDtYTYCdyzbsJtTMFXZqLXDRbYJRB3O8GQ/s400/WKodakRef_WB_Photoshop.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 6 - Create a "Levels" adjustment layer</span><br /><br /></div>Once the picture with the reference card is opened in Photoshop, create a new "levels" adjustment layer as shown in Figure 6.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUHmAQzKnc-cJCGPwjEZ0uEtDQdrlWiYM-Cl_nQq74BrO8DdAN8SKGPDzCUY0PEpZAdT3VDyVJN4ivjKt4oIeeZ3SyOJ72nLDVRqXPEksE0xQjl6FM6I8xOpoZL1-b4oqVF4bZ5IdJO1I/s1600-h/PS_AdjLayer_WB.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 256px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344820042801595666" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUHmAQzKnc-cJCGPwjEZ0uEtDQdrlWiYM-Cl_nQq74BrO8DdAN8SKGPDzCUY0PEpZAdT3VDyVJN4ivjKt4oIeeZ3SyOJ72nLDVRqXPEksE0xQjl6FM6I8xOpoZL1-b4oqVF4bZ5IdJO1I/s400/PS_AdjLayer_WB.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic; COLOR: rgb(102,0,0)">Figure 7 - Making the white balance correction using a "levels" adjustment layer</span></span><br /></div><br />Figure 7 shows how this white balance correction is made.<br /><ul><li>from the "layers" window (green box) select the new adjustment layer (yellow box);</li><li>from the "adjustments" window (blue box), select the white "eye dropper" (magenta box);<br /></li><li>click the "eye dropper" on the white patch of the Kodak reference chart in the picture (red circle).</li></ul>The entire picture changes in color to reflect the correction needed to make the white Kodak patch a true white. Now we have a picture of the decorative balls with a Kodak reference chart that is color accurate and suitable for framing.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBpk0BZZE1Bi5G7s6cYKZFAxTMpQXjVgSZfGLAXova0SoFv0YWhFWd3l2ZXDZGes8nC5BAT8Y473C-It4oS9WgE5GmCA3_A28lhsDrfpgu_uly-T9HOBu8yEMUWf6PPRbV0SZ5rPHMyAw/s1600-h/Copy_AdjLayer_WB.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 187px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344825726221277426" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBpk0BZZE1Bi5G7s6cYKZFAxTMpQXjVgSZfGLAXova0SoFv0YWhFWd3l2ZXDZGes8nC5BAT8Y473C-It4oS9WgE5GmCA3_A28lhsDrfpgu_uly-T9HOBu8yEMUWf6PPRbV0SZ5rPHMyAw/s400/Copy_AdjLayer_WB.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 8 - Applying white balance correction to the final picture</span></span><br /></div><br />Figure 8 shows how the corrections we just made can be applied to the picture with the Kodak chart removed. After all, this second picture should require exactly the same correction.<br /><ul><li>Start by opening both pictures in Photoshop and place them side-by-side.</li><li>Make the active window the corrected picture containing the Kodak chart (the green box shows that this is the active window).</li><li>The layers window (I placed it between the two pictures for this example.) shows two layers. One called "background", and one labeled "levels 1". Click and hold on the "levels 1" layer.</li><li>Drag the "level 1" layers (shown as the red box above) to the second picture (without the Kodak chart) and release the mouse button.</li><li>Photoshop will automatically make a copy of the adjustment layer from the first picture and create an exact adjustment layer in the second picture. And the color will change to match our first, white balance corrected picture.</li></ul><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicAKlxL7g70-qlVQyzMWL2YPzQuzx3A_z-bP-lmXl0fUsCZVsVe3PDCNhDdEFfHq0pSt2CmnLiGLel08atvYkrL2CseKUcmORTqXqVwa-k6slUXnoN5J1B3-q2HB9jNLcdAvv2xUdPgWU/s1600-h/Final_wLayer_WB-2421.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 269px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344825733355509202" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicAKlxL7g70-qlVQyzMWL2YPzQuzx3A_z-bP-lmXl0fUsCZVsVe3PDCNhDdEFfHq0pSt2CmnLiGLel08atvYkrL2CseKUcmORTqXqVwa-k6slUXnoN5J1B3-q2HB9jNLcdAvv2xUdPgWU/s400/Final_wLayer_WB-2421.jpg" /></a><br />Figure 9 -- Final "real" known reference" white balanced image</span><br /></div><br />Compare the final picture in Figure 3 using the "almost" known reference to the final "real" known reference picture in Figure 9 above.<br /><br />Lightroom uses a similar "eye dropper" technique, but requires fewer steps.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAfN31fx4oFiTK-rrDx3O57vR4yxAAOXGIY08OKeMYbzJf8j7H9Cc-RBXk5jJbmYeWOnj5OsevO5-trZGqd0CJQ7If6J7Y8I5sfFUQJkdvFe6Pifa8Ql42x0se7LvWFMwnapNo8iKUAMU/s1600-h/WB_Tool_LR.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 276px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344837781498963442" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAfN31fx4oFiTK-rrDx3O57vR4yxAAOXGIY08OKeMYbzJf8j7H9Cc-RBXk5jJbmYeWOnj5OsevO5-trZGqd0CJQ7If6J7Y8I5sfFUQJkdvFe6Pifa8Ql42x0se7LvWFMwnapNo8iKUAMU/s400/WB_Tool_LR.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 10 -- Lightroom 2 White Balance Tool</span></span><br /></div><br />White balancing is done in the Develop module of Lightroom 2.<br /><ul><li>click once on Lightroom's white balance "eye dropper" tool (red circle in Figure 10);</li><li>find the known neutral reference point in the picture and click once (shown in the green circle of Figure 10).<br /></li></ul>Then all colors within the picture will change based on the correction required to make the reference point neutral. Figure 11, below, shows the results of this white balance procedure.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOW0PzGsdmLn6K3eX2yD7PuNUrwA_a19x3MHHScln_stuL-5xTpnKGC6LGfikFJf61OYS8Q0l_wgNHDV5Fb0LZ7hsL2Zym3rigOE7dGeQZBCOaFMuM-7BW3scpyJaSFJSlLfuw80PKRAk/s1600-h/WB_Tool_LR2.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 224px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344839068703076866" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOW0PzGsdmLn6K3eX2yD7PuNUrwA_a19x3MHHScln_stuL-5xTpnKGC6LGfikFJf61OYS8Q0l_wgNHDV5Fb0LZ7hsL2Zym3rigOE7dGeQZBCOaFMuM-7BW3scpyJaSFJSlLfuw80PKRAk/s400/WB_Tool_LR2.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic; COLOR: rgb(102,0,0)">Figure 11 - Original image after applying the white balance tool</span></span><br /></div><br />Applying this correction to the picture without the reference chart is even easier. As a matter of fact, this correction can be applied to multiple pictures at the same time in one quick step.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKSpP4w5bGK1Wu7nTsQ059ZZLDJxHV4eNR0_R5eeVICyVNBJoP93ILANzHnA_A8nubeb39ZjnpLZvImgb53TpFUARE9GM1U8ubBUA_xkPdge2e0qfaxBgiIOtmndrAd8yUbZJGt-yrNcs/s1600-h/Synch_WB_Tool_LR.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 350px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344840103866442050" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKSpP4w5bGK1Wu7nTsQ059ZZLDJxHV4eNR0_R5eeVICyVNBJoP93ILANzHnA_A8nubeb39ZjnpLZvImgb53TpFUARE9GM1U8ubBUA_xkPdge2e0qfaxBgiIOtmndrAd8yUbZJGt-yrNcs/s400/Synch_WB_Tool_LR.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic; COLOR: rgb(102,0,0)">Figure 12 - Applying one correction to multiple images in Lightroom</span></span><br /></div><br />In the Library mode, shown above in Figure 12:<br /><ul><li>click-select the picture that has the correction you want to apply to other pictures in the collection (shown in the green box);</li><li>while holding down the Alt key on PCs or the Command key on Macs, click-select all the images to which you want to apply the same white balance correction as the original;</li><li>click on the "Synch Settings" button (shown in red circle in Figure 12).</li></ul><br />The window below will appear:<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghLF-KzpEb5R4i3mcYTE7qxxu6AXw4VoSOQOy0O6yvHJiZGh-mc5nLg3zzgHEjymkQ5p6JsGD1XtAHPM_bnhTzKyfiWaCCkpXey-wJn6Yoqcp1EW4_Sp93CZ4Z4sJGMB7qn28wfTKYa7E/s1600-h/Synch_WB_Tool_LR2.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 350px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344840106732146930" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghLF-KzpEb5R4i3mcYTE7qxxu6AXw4VoSOQOy0O6yvHJiZGh-mc5nLg3zzgHEjymkQ5p6JsGD1XtAHPM_bnhTzKyfiWaCCkpXey-wJn6Yoqcp1EW4_Sp93CZ4Z4sJGMB7qn28wfTKYa7E/s400/Synch_WB_Tool_LR2.jpg" /></a><br />Figure 13 - Lightroom "Synchronize Settings" window<br /></div><br />The window that appears (Figure 13) allows the synchronization of dozens of image attributes. But only the white balance correction will be selected for this example. Only the White Balance box (shown in green) should contain a check mark -- all others blank. Then click on the Synchronize button in the lower right-hand corner.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSMF-tdExC_1xAAmuaeV0uQMGTrKjDMaXGXythJif8ZQFp2UAd15D4opphXkFPt1qVBZVMUeFXjKSvXHZ746qkkbEA7Ws_TRJDsfd0Tm5JEcHEleMvw_ykS5Pg1Dn_Y05p2CgOe8llSmc/s1600-h/Synch_WB_Tool_LR3.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 350px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344840115412347394" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSMF-tdExC_1xAAmuaeV0uQMGTrKjDMaXGXythJif8ZQFp2UAd15D4opphXkFPt1qVBZVMUeFXjKSvXHZ746qkkbEA7Ws_TRJDsfd0Tm5JEcHEleMvw_ykS5Pg1Dn_Y05p2CgOe8llSmc/s400/Synch_WB_Tool_LR3.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 14 - White Balance of master image is applied to all selected images.</span></span><br /></div><br />Figure 14 shows the results of synchronizing the white balance of the four images. Lightroom's Synchronize feature allows for rapid duplication of any of the program's editing features to other pictures in the collection.<br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Note: Applying a white balance correction to multiple images ONLY works when all the pictures were taken under the SAME light source.</span><br /><br />Considering the wealth of white balance controls available on modern DSLRs when the picture is being taken and the additional controls available in image editing software during post processing, there is little excuse remaining for poor color accuracy. Take advantage of all these controls to provide the color accuracy and creativity your vision of the final picture requires.Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-37879437896067195772009-05-12T13:31:00.000-07:002009-05-26T00:59:23.510-07:00Part 24a - White Balancing in the iDarkroom<div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left">In my blog for beginning DSLR camera users, <a href="http://www.hubbardcamera.com/"><span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Hub's Camera</span></a>, the topic of setting the proper white balance was the subject of a three part post (Parts <a href="http://www.hubbardcamera.com/2009/03/part-24a-white-balance.html">24a</a>, <a href="http://www.hubbardcamera.com/2009/03/part-24b-white-balance.html">24b</a> and <a href="http://www.hubbardcamera.com/2009/05/part-24-c-white-balance.html">24c</a>). It is also possible to correct an image's white balance in the digital darkroom after the picture has been taken. Regardless of whether you decide to address the issue of white balance when taking the picture or later in your computer as a "post processing" procedure, white balance is critical to the accurate rendition of colors in the final picture.<br /><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOpxIP9bSjconsSTOxhVQuxU6oynuA3JZ67nSzBY4xYuU_onw7YC492Ddl1ulA6PN9che0gCzgnOkGfmc3FD75smsbXjKxxrERZKNHtPApm0gVxIOAnnVqljI3wxOgb5DGycVv6dMMlrY/s1600-h/WB-2421.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5335044567626647970" style="WIDTH: 293px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 197px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOpxIP9bSjconsSTOxhVQuxU6oynuA3JZ67nSzBY4xYuU_onw7YC492Ddl1ulA6PN9che0gCzgnOkGfmc3FD75smsbXjKxxrERZKNHtPApm0gVxIOAnnVqljI3wxOgb5DGycVv6dMMlrY/s320/WB-2421.jpg" border="0" /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU3iAApavKFdw6Hrn-eCVCcHkYM6xnQtQFb5yIITfP4KthVqh9CtWqtoG6c3X8eGPdudRBlgaXYwHKECvDwwMf8aC7wBDfF2u3v6FNc-37RVr9-6yWnYuQZ2ofC58dyX1RbEmcVpgxl08/s1600-h/WB-2424.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5335044566625489586" style="WIDTH: 296px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 198px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU3iAApavKFdw6Hrn-eCVCcHkYM6xnQtQFb5yIITfP4KthVqh9CtWqtoG6c3X8eGPdudRBlgaXYwHKECvDwwMf8aC7wBDfF2u3v6FNc-37RVr9-6yWnYuQZ2ofC58dyX1RbEmcVpgxl08/s320/WB-2424.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0); FONT-STYLE: italic; TEXT-ALIGN: center"><span style="font-size:85%;">Figure 1, A classic white balance situation<br /></span></div><br />Figure 1 illustrates the white balance problem faced by photographers in different light source situations. The image on top was taken with <span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">the camera set to "daylight" white balance</span>. The colors in this picture have a definite yellow and red cast. This result is to be expected since the predominant light source for this picture was a table lamp with a standard tungsten light bulb.<br /><br />The lower picture in Figure 1 appears more "normal" to our eyes. The whites are white. The blacks are black. And all the other colors are very close to the originals. To accomplish correct color rendering, <span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">the camera was set to a white balance of "tungsten"</span>. With the white balance settings on "tungsten", the camera automatically applied adjustments to make the final image look "normal" -- as it would appear under natural sunlight conditions.<br /><br />So, that works pretty well. But what about the times when:<br /><ul><li>a photographer forgets to change the white balance settings in the camera, or</li><li>the available light source isn't quite a match for any of the camera's built-in white balance controls, or</li><li>the photographer needs to further refine the white balance of an image for precise color rendition?</li></ul><span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Is there no hope?</span> Sure there is. That's when you step in with your newly-acquired iDarkoom skills.<br /><br />This is the first of a two-part discussion on White Balancing a picture after it has been taken using a digital imaging program. I will present the underlying principles that determine proper light balance. Understanding white balance requires an understanding of <span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">neutrality</span> and a <span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">known point of reference</span>. Sounds technical, but it's really common sense explained using a little technical background information.<br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><br />Photography is a Red, Green and Blue world -- the world of primary colors. Using these primary colors we can reproduce all the colors we see in the real world every day. We can accomplish this because digital photography allows us to control the amount of red, green and blue that makes up each and every point of color in our final pictures. Every point of color in a picture is expressed as a specific amount of red, green and blue, in increments up to 256 for each color.<br /><br />To illustrate this concept, hit the play button on the video screen below.<br /><br /></div><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwtV3rMIsjP9QI2Xt_TVcHytWi0gB4vMBO7Eh-yGtZpoR1nPxRIA4GomEmRH8bsoZ5TlED0bdeHwEQdD_S6CA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><span style="COLOR: rgb(255,204,51);font-size:85%;" ><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 2 - RGB video</span></span><br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left">I know. I know. I'm no James Earl Jones. But I hope the information shown in the Figure 2 video helps you understand how all the colors of the rainbow can be re-created in photography by using only three primaries -- red, green and blue.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJmoZk2UidayiJUdEJY9-yCnu_eFxcCsOcYUQqWecgYjpmQW3ji5deWEVTi0SQVSK5iGf0tKPJvi7Yfp-Fme1TiSey9It6s-wjWUWv3tt9Oe59yhOgzrjyRd0Qlpm7v0ueRX3aZJ_pX4k/s1600-h/gray_neutrality.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5338864980953275106" style="WIDTH: 311px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 260px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJmoZk2UidayiJUdEJY9-yCnu_eFxcCsOcYUQqWecgYjpmQW3ji5deWEVTi0SQVSK5iGf0tKPJvi7Yfp-Fme1TiSey9It6s-wjWUWv3tt9Oe59yhOgzrjyRd0Qlpm7v0ueRX3aZJ_pX4k/s400/gray_neutrality.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="COLOR: rgb(255,204,51);font-size:85%;" ><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 3 - Neutral Gray numeric values</span></span><br /></div><br />Most importantly for our discussion of white balance correction, let's look at the concept of a "neutral" gray. A neutral gray has no color bias. A true neutral gray of any density contains numerically equal amounts of red, green and blue as shown in the Info screen in Figure 3.<br /><br />Why is neutral gray so important? Glad you asked. In reality, there are few colors in a real photograph that we can identify by their RGB numeric values. Agree? When you take a picture of a red flower, do you absolutely know the R, G and B numeric values of that flower's red coloring? No. It's impossible without carrying around a scientific color measuring device in your camera bag. Let's not do that.<br /><br />There is a component within a picture about which we do know some facts that will allow you to correctly color balance your image. That's the colors black, white and all the grays in between. We KNOW that if these "colors" are reproduced accurately then the Red, Green and Blue numeric components will be identical. If you can identify a white or gray in a picture, you have found a <span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">"known reference"</span>. That's a point of reference that can be used to white balance your picture and render the final image as it would appear under normal daylight lighting.<br /><br />Then all we have to do is apply photography's best kept secret. <span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">If you can correct that shade of gray to a true neutral (where RGB values are identical) and change ALL remaining colors by the same amount, every color in the picture will be rendered correctly. Remember: When you identify a "known reference" and adjust that one color (gray) to neutral, then all the other colors will look correct.</span><br /><br />Part 24b will discuss the tools that software programs like Photoshop and Lightroom 2 provide to make this critical white balance correction. You've already done the hard work by working your way through this post. The actual adjustments you will learn in Part 24b are easy.<br /></div></div>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-55055402271512911642009-04-18T21:08:00.000-07:002009-04-19T12:59:08.993-07:00Part 23 - Creating a Copyright NoticeWith so many images being displayed and shared on the Internet, theft is a major concern of photographers. The concern is justified. Photographers' images are innocently or deliberately stolen thousands of times everyday in cyberspace. One method of making theft less attractive and more difficult is the application of a copyright mark to monitor-displayed and printed images.<br /><br />This blog post will provide you with an easy method of creating and applying simple copyright marks to your images.<br /><br />Before beginning, there is one fact that every photographer must face. <span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-STYLE: italic">If you place an image on the Internet and someone wants to steal the picture, it WILL be stolen -- no matter what copyright precautions have been taken. The only guaranteed way of protecting your images from Internet theft is to NOT place them on the Internet.</span><br /><br />The first step in producing a copyright mark is to create a blank image in your digital imaging software program. (For this exercise, Photoshop will be used. Other imaging programs will work in a similar fashion.) We are making a master copyright image that will be used every time a copyright mark is applied to a new photograph. This document is being created with a BLACK background at 600 ppi by 800 ppi at a resolution of 72 ppi for display on the Internet.<br /><br />On this blank image, the TEXT tool will be used to create a new layer that contains the content of our copyright.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHYVdbgLSjSFsE8d1Vikbeyi4kNDteBZo0MT6FH8e9vuzSRVEvCunS6t67WnL3pxA_z-mDTvn3ueVR9RdoU4lhLL94_b4ztefNHKGPsvfg-FT7oBrbAoJcTIbw8VxZ-EJK8zGmMAGW7Q0/s1600-h/copyright_w_on_b.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5326255882178363266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 326px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHYVdbgLSjSFsE8d1Vikbeyi4kNDteBZo0MT6FH8e9vuzSRVEvCunS6t67WnL3pxA_z-mDTvn3ueVR9RdoU4lhLL94_b4ztefNHKGPsvfg-FT7oBrbAoJcTIbw8VxZ-EJK8zGmMAGW7Q0/s400/copyright_w_on_b.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="COLOR: rgb(153,51,0); FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 1. Text applied in separate layer</span> </span></div><br />In Figure 1, WHITE text for the copyright has been added to a new layer above the black background. The placement and exact size of the text is not important at this time. Pick a text size that you can easily see and edit. Final sizing and positioning will be determined when the copyright is applied to the final image. Save this file with a unique name and in a permanent safe location. Make certain you save this file with the layers intact. In Photoshop jargon, this means <span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-STYLE: italic">don't flatten the image</span>, and save it as a TIFF or PSD file. You will use this copyright master file frequently.<br /><br />While we're at it, let's produce another master file using black text on a white background. This will give us two color options for our copyright mark -- white text to be used on dark backgrounds and black text for light picture backgrounds.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeAVPDDxNlGg95dBRh-Mu04J11IAUaAUYxbivXz-ZA4xuHVPcxN6GYH8qhueLFBkIgBIRCa0RDKMckvTjFDngdY-zoVanP1rud3I5odjOtqKsvrPQL3b703bGkOaYqkSJqhyZ48Z631nA/s1600-h/copyright_b_on_w.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5326259529959874834" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 326px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeAVPDDxNlGg95dBRh-Mu04J11IAUaAUYxbivXz-ZA4xuHVPcxN6GYH8qhueLFBkIgBIRCa0RDKMckvTjFDngdY-zoVanP1rud3I5odjOtqKsvrPQL3b703bGkOaYqkSJqhyZ48Z631nA/s400/copyright_b_on_w.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0); FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 2. Adding black copyright text to a white background master.</span></span><br /></div><br />Follow the same steps shown above, but this time make the background white and the text color black. The finished digital image is seen in Figure 2. Save this file with a descriptive title.<br /><br />It's time to add this copyright to a priceless Hub original.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIqXWtec374M0pLJj5rRv5qlGDeaBuyWNjngAMo62ZMfveT-5sAQtdOxruE03rSFbm50cXUtQuxpWxKpRnhmNsR7TzZ86YZxDH5_nB9o28Rx8wSuVp4H-uxAGH-A-uA45yPfGvmGhhCY4/s1600-h/copyright_setup1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5326260879853901154" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 230px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIqXWtec374M0pLJj5rRv5qlGDeaBuyWNjngAMo62ZMfveT-5sAQtdOxruE03rSFbm50cXUtQuxpWxKpRnhmNsR7TzZ86YZxDH5_nB9o28Rx8wSuVp4H-uxAGH-A-uA45yPfGvmGhhCY4/s400/copyright_setup1.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0); FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 3. Original picture and copyright files open.</span> </span></div><br />Figure 3 shows the Photoshop workspace with the image requiring the copyright mark on the left and our prepared copyright text image on the right. On the far right is the "layers" window. Begin by clicking on the copyright image to make it the active window (outline in yellow above). Notice the "layers" window indicates two layers -- background layer and the text layer outlined in red.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Re9HVnI5X1POzlDVzzjOOoCd7iqF4VRqmqDTWYE-1vQFDJiR7XBzDxIU-GA4k3gTkcGd9leqcA3SSuun62MpzNZrgWb_2n199Bttn3ld2pxWux6rUaOEsekafzcful6SnTys4BKH4e8/s1600-h/copyright_setup2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5326262889756586786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 230px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Re9HVnI5X1POzlDVzzjOOoCd7iqF4VRqmqDTWYE-1vQFDJiR7XBzDxIU-GA4k3gTkcGd9leqcA3SSuun62MpzNZrgWb_2n199Bttn3ld2pxWux6rUaOEsekafzcful6SnTys4BKH4e8/s400/copyright_setup2.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0); FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 4. Moving the copyright layer to the new image.</span> </span></div><br />Now for the fun part. Click and hold on the layer containing the copyright TEXT. While holding the mouse button down, drag the text layer to the picture on the left in Figure 4.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA8sGsctAayQ_MrSTgHtLasvgEtUqFAGn25aWCRsGyljuqsSKIvgxAJojWKyP4Vb0Ht1-3-Bx2BRiFP5DwulLldclZEr1YIqBd2B9huFOpNj9dDpcXSsa6i-KO-j3Q30tV5iKtsRmge7s/s1600-h/copyright_applied.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5326263935570150610" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 396px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA8sGsctAayQ_MrSTgHtLasvgEtUqFAGn25aWCRsGyljuqsSKIvgxAJojWKyP4Vb0Ht1-3-Bx2BRiFP5DwulLldclZEr1YIqBd2B9huFOpNj9dDpcXSsa6i-KO-j3Q30tV5iKtsRmge7s/s400/copyright_applied.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0); FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 5. Text layer applied to original photograph.</span> </span></div><br />The original photograph will now look like Figure 5 with the copyright text now applied as a new layer above the image. It worked. But it's not in a very aesthetic position on the picture.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8lN9fQanQrU1JGt-LzIW9UgcvlrXZZuQM8LiA_kRugx2Nwp8u22W_oytmGYq-m0DfU8ZahwxJ1rFKvFhqL0w3BQzoN7aKLy7sLU31Q2bgpijYSDzxnvutC1Dkwy1p8OuZLbBPG9kUhdY/s1600-h/copyright_move2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5326264768577196738" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 399px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8lN9fQanQrU1JGt-LzIW9UgcvlrXZZuQM8LiA_kRugx2Nwp8u22W_oytmGYq-m0DfU8ZahwxJ1rFKvFhqL0w3BQzoN7aKLy7sLU31Q2bgpijYSDzxnvutC1Dkwy1p8OuZLbBPG9kUhdY/s400/copyright_move2.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0); FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 6. Final copyright placement.</span></span><br /></div><br />Using the "move" tool (shown in the red circle in Figure 6) and the text layer selected, the copyright can be moved (dragged) to its final location on the picture. The white text copyright mark was selected for this picture to stand out against the gray background.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKqkD9_1lwaUSq6RmfyZ1SJ_QoiyqDHUTXBtK6upUdfqJObADGowteJpZDoNDu54Yy8VybFY-IcKc4piaiyDBFAyFoJ094iXhrrHZFdI6ZLYIOlvCDHaFLuJEkwzK72iLk4j_SrAIjSDk/s1600-h/copyright_scale1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5326266257079810386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 313px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKqkD9_1lwaUSq6RmfyZ1SJ_QoiyqDHUTXBtK6upUdfqJObADGowteJpZDoNDu54Yy8VybFY-IcKc4piaiyDBFAyFoJ094iXhrrHZFdI6ZLYIOlvCDHaFLuJEkwzK72iLk4j_SrAIjSDk/s400/copyright_scale1.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0); FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 7. Scaling the text to the picture.</span> </span></div><br />Using the "Scale image" function in Photoshop and the text layer selected, the text size can be altered to suit the photographer's taste. (see Figure 7) This copyright will suffice, but I find it visually distracting. I prefer a semi-transparent watermark to allow the background image to be seen.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL_RqdlE1J4QRBRfHCoCAgjxr8gQnyZVpQwQBW0zUoWJY_eBDGgOJFvnQ6U4eipLIDw-100U2pJ757f0gLfZc554BeiZ66PJJGYJUaBRXegA0fN6XySZvdBlP16bknOibeXijas8t3yY0/s1600-h/copyright_transparent.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5326267255913397458" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 313px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL_RqdlE1J4QRBRfHCoCAgjxr8gQnyZVpQwQBW0zUoWJY_eBDGgOJFvnQ6U4eipLIDw-100U2pJ757f0gLfZc554BeiZ66PJJGYJUaBRXegA0fN6XySZvdBlP16bknOibeXijas8t3yY0/s400/copyright_transparent.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0)">Figure 8. Changing the copyright text transparency.</span> </span></div><br />In Figure 8, the copyright text layer has been selected. The "opacity" control above the text layer has been changed to 50% to allow the background image to be seen through the white text.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyli7_yvuYy9-PF5DAcuvkbghTe5pADrCzxCcqJitI8KyigZ00E7d8-oQDaEeYDelUHOniIqNtTE9GI8CeXQLc4Iw2YuTAexlur6hbCUAvECrlgOI607Mk72m7whNZX6LQxXShRX7MuHA/s1600-h/weatherwoodwcopyright.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5326268275822380162" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 262px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyli7_yvuYy9-PF5DAcuvkbghTe5pADrCzxCcqJitI8KyigZ00E7d8-oQDaEeYDelUHOniIqNtTE9GI8CeXQLc4Iw2YuTAexlur6hbCUAvECrlgOI607Mk72m7whNZX6LQxXShRX7MuHA/s400/weatherwoodwcopyright.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0); FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 9. Final image with copyright as it would appear on the internet.</span><br /></span></div><br />Figure 9 shows the final Internet-ready image. Figure 10 (below) used the same procedure to apply the black copyright text to a light background image. Notice that a 50% transparency has also been applied to this text.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNCEly1_qBuuMGb8YFipkcjgyAPp7kCr8YlAi7xSeDmLaolnW5VQGCmZCJ4YKqwYG5D00aV81USAYx5jLObgttqZYsuIO5wS3dvcuO1K3OlIDAHqGwqKVM9Z4j1mCcdaK9cQbzK808zyA/s1600-h/knot_final_copyright.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5326268815658782114" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 246px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNCEly1_qBuuMGb8YFipkcjgyAPp7kCr8YlAi7xSeDmLaolnW5VQGCmZCJ4YKqwYG5D00aV81USAYx5jLObgttqZYsuIO5wS3dvcuO1K3OlIDAHqGwqKVM9Z4j1mCcdaK9cQbzK808zyA/s400/knot_final_copyright.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="COLOR: rgb(102,0,0); FONT-STYLE: italic">Figure 10. Black text copyright notice on a light colored background.</span></span><br /></div><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Both of these images required "flattening" of the layers and saving as JPEG files for Internet use.</span><br /><br /><span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">Some final notes:</span><br /><ul style="FONT-STYLE: italic"><li>Be careful not to overwrite your original image file. Save this file under a new name.</li><li>Once the master copyright files have been created and saved, applying the notice to your images in the future will require only a few seconds of your time.</li><li>When sizing your copyright text on the final picture, keep it unobtrusive.<br /></li><li>The metadata that's attached to your original file will provide additional proof of your ownership.</li><li>This example is intended specifically for 72 ppi images used on the Internet. I also add a copyright mark to images I print. Since I normally print at 240 ppi, I have created a white and a black text master copyright file for this ppi. I then apply my copyright notice to these print images using the same steps as above.</li></ul>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-22259260367178860242009-03-16T21:03:00.000-07:002009-03-17T17:29:50.431-07:00Part 22 - Preserving Your Digital Image FilesIt has been said that today's digital image files may have a shorter life expectancy than traditional film due to the limitations of digital storage technology. <span style="FONT-STYLE: italic">For example, the negatives from the black & white or color film your dad took of you as a child will probably out live the CD you just created for back up.</span> As you become more accomplished in photography and the iDarkroom, the inevitable result will be an ever increasing number of priceless files that make up your personal collection. To you and your family, these files are irreplaceable.<br /><br />There is an organization that provides the public with the latest information in storage technology. The <a href="http://www.i3a.org/"><span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-STYLE: italic">International Imaging Industry Association</span></a>, I3A, is the leading imaging industry trade association. Its members are experts in setting standards, providing education, and supporting safe environmental practices for the photographic and mobile imaging markets. The goal of I3A is to find common ground for advancing the industry, and to enable better products and services for its customers.<br /><br />On the I3A's educational website, <a href="http://www.savemymemories.org/"><span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">SaveMyMemories.org</span></a>, a step-by-step guide for archiving digital files using the latest available options is provided to the public. Bookmark this site. Use the information they provide to help you choose the best possible back up methodology to store your irreplaceable creative and family image files.<br /><br />Then, from time to time, check back in to see what new long-term data storage technologies, products and recommendations have been introduced that might further increase the life expectancy of your images.Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-31887026412303039222009-02-01T01:33:00.000-08:002009-02-02T09:04:00.350-08:00Part 21 - CloningWithout a doubt, it was the ability to "clone" that provided the initial boost to digital imaging popularity among professional photographers. In the early 1990s, digital imaging meant shooting traditional film and then scanning the negatives or slides to produce digital files that could be retouched in the first digital imaging systems. "Dust Busting", the elimination of dust, scratches and imperfections became the catch phrase of the 90s as well as the digital photo technician's primary tool for preparing images for publication.<br /><br />Those early digital imaging systems were prohibitively expensive -- $100,000 and up. Today, sophisticated programs from Photoshop to basic Internet freeware/shareware imaging software make cloning and a wealth of other manipulation tools affordable and available to every digital photographer.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Basic cloning tools provide the ability to duplicate one area of an image and to exactly place the duplicate (clone) in another area of the same image.</span> Today, most image editing programs include some form of cloning as a fundamental tool. This article will explore the basics of cloning that are common within today's imaging programs. Let's get started by viewing the brief introductory video below.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzzJSJp5g-QxomlBOokJsqqSyd0nioBDpNyyP-ISG5FNNJFn7R9rJEogBMiSvYqDY5gdvtYNluOSZYQZQC6zw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">The Basics (click on Play button)</span></span><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br />Below is the final example from this video and a summary of the topics covered:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1T4lzs1MRgs1gdC9b0PVoE2FyWZFRkBAAWDzDwXVfdErSybZejtxdAVN8uxNW05w0a5l-tUDKdAIZfhxVi0KIquTejOqqONMnEkkRC6cxMIie9j_WBUmAMq0SKf4wvFyNhAr4PQamaHY/s1600-h/Basic_Clone_1b_still.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 270px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1T4lzs1MRgs1gdC9b0PVoE2FyWZFRkBAAWDzDwXVfdErSybZejtxdAVN8uxNW05w0a5l-tUDKdAIZfhxVi0KIquTejOqqONMnEkkRC6cxMIie9j_WBUmAMq0SKf4wvFyNhAr4PQamaHY/s400/Basic_Clone_1b_still.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297952710393613986" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><ul><li style="font-style: italic;">Selecting the Clone tool</li><li style="font-style: italic;">Hard/soft brush slider control</li><li style="font-style: italic;">Brush size control</li><li><span style="font-style: italic;">A simple clone example</span>.<br /></li></ul>The cloning tool has evolved to become a very precise and sophisticated "copy and paste" tool for photographers.<br /><br />Typical uses for this very flexible tool include:<br /><ul><li>duplicating picture elements within the same picture -- like the placement of the third water drop in the video above</li><li>eliminating imperfections</li><li>eliminating elements that distract from a photograph's composition.</li></ul><div style="text-align: center;"><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGz4sZ81-etMsMIWVmB2rVLCe8GgLrTttkWfHrJfu6FKIV-58Iwzs-K1cdIIQgu_QzqHHtNhcY5cMfskANni6OmXu6pkwfQ6SeH7VgudhwSMU2KozxoqFDxdOLaf6dig67RbAe9IM4Mu8/s1600-h/girl_face.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGz4sZ81-etMsMIWVmB2rVLCe8GgLrTttkWfHrJfu6FKIV-58Iwzs-K1cdIIQgu_QzqHHtNhcY5cMfskANni6OmXu6pkwfQ6SeH7VgudhwSMU2KozxoqFDxdOLaf6dig67RbAe9IM4Mu8/s400/girl_face.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297960697298843522" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Original unretouched image</span></span><br /></div><br />The following video clip provides an example of eliminating imperfections in the informal portrait above.<br /><br /></div></div></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyAt6ydq2coQvNsQdh94AoEnd-sPcyE1sND8r4bCZj119UM_1q0Nbv1vOuf7nZSecoiVvZ5tdgd2w5B9ys' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Removing blemishes and imperfections (click on Play button)</span></span><br /></div><br />Below are the enlarged "before and after" pictures from the video above:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj00ZuB2zv8ki_mfradegdeWe61BF2r2Gxe4jjxcQq02CelM8YqVtI5zPkY2rQP_QiLfoxX3n2sKgnI-o7aJVRMoilgkYRtF_MgJ1M4MLAigoaC1lQstYWTprPLhJFeXWYVRXWdYB1jKaE/s1600-h/Basic_Clone_2_still1.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 233px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj00ZuB2zv8ki_mfradegdeWe61BF2r2Gxe4jjxcQq02CelM8YqVtI5zPkY2rQP_QiLfoxX3n2sKgnI-o7aJVRMoilgkYRtF_MgJ1M4MLAigoaC1lQstYWTprPLhJFeXWYVRXWdYB1jKaE/s320/Basic_Clone_2_still1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5298060356223494850" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Before retouching</span></span><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKwejN1BWw-JQyIifsoVx0VqU8aEw8Ikkd1EL3MVMmueFJm3Z_epFjPEXlXg2_41D_2kVpmxazCedzzqy85NTJjV2EArcb8txjSIdst6W_6VMC51av7QroaY-a5t4ssbSNb10bFEVaSQ/s1600-h/Basic_Clone_2_still2.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 233px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKwejN1BWw-JQyIifsoVx0VqU8aEw8Ikkd1EL3MVMmueFJm3Z_epFjPEXlXg2_41D_2kVpmxazCedzzqy85NTJjV2EArcb8txjSIdst6W_6VMC51av7QroaY-a5t4ssbSNb10bFEVaSQ/s320/Basic_Clone_2_still2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5298060357556493138" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">After retouching with cloning tool</span></span><br /></div><br />This video exercise demonstrates the basic cloning steps required to remove common imperfections and blemishes. Points to remember include:<br /><ul><li>Before attempting this type of retouching, enlarge the monitor image to 100% or greater.</li><li>Use a brush size that is close to the size of the object to be removed.</li><li>Set the brush hardness to 0% to provide a soft edge to the clone brush to allow the clone to blend smoothly into the surrounding image area.</li><li>The cloning source should match the tone, density and color of the area immediately surrounding the imperfection.</li></ul>Most imaging programs containing cloning tools provide a method of stepping backward through the cloning steps. This capability affords us the luxury of making a mistake and easily stepping back in the process to try again. <span style="font-style: italic;"> Remember: You have altered the original image during this process. Save this retouched file under a different name to preserve the original.</span><br /><br />It's easy to see why photographers who specialize in people pictures find the clone tool so useful. In the past, a specially-trained retouching artist using brush and paints would have been called on to perform these corrections manually on the original negative or final print -- costly, time consuming and requiring considerable artistic skills.<br /><br />The next example video clip uses the cloning tool to eliminate unwanted elements within the picture below.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr6DJQ9fWl3oqZ2AoyxhyphenhyphenkH2Y07oNzNWaz2TjSz7PkrAtEUu11umqkWZoNnXYvbeaZ_beWdNCUtd_pJnvWInsk4oQIZ3mqVGP1if9UEfwF-omyY5HxUYa8iUNxBXVjNjdAZVc1AJxqptg/s1600-h/clone3_weed-0295.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr6DJQ9fWl3oqZ2AoyxhyphenhyphenkH2Y07oNzNWaz2TjSz7PkrAtEUu11umqkWZoNnXYvbeaZ_beWdNCUtd_pJnvWInsk4oQIZ3mqVGP1if9UEfwF-omyY5HxUYa8iUNxBXVjNjdAZVc1AJxqptg/s320/clone3_weed-0295.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5298112506708801522" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Original image before clone retouching the green stem in the background</span></span><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzv575_Q0Tgys6ns2rLZNqvoNNOq6xcQyzMAJxAwKhyAnRPT5eAbZbUCl8zJzS-LoUlMYTCVlNr3KQDOMr7yw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Click Play button to see video.</span></span><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-XVdlEGQmMvRDZG_enQC3M6MDQZ-9M2JiGnYT1_iym5FKfg-9q-yfhFQJAFqNifRkaI9TEXAqUa04C9adSXJ8uhR6vCVAnE6Bjf4abU9l0SO83l75KU-eanIuEQoZ8dzd5jCH0HW_Nu4/s1600-h/clone3_weed-retouched.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-XVdlEGQmMvRDZG_enQC3M6MDQZ-9M2JiGnYT1_iym5FKfg-9q-yfhFQJAFqNifRkaI9TEXAqUa04C9adSXJ8uhR6vCVAnE6Bjf4abU9l0SO83l75KU-eanIuEQoZ8dzd5jCH0HW_Nu4/s320/clone3_weed-retouched.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5298112508928657490" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Same image after using clone tool to replace stem with additional background</span></span><br /></div><br />To successfully "clone out" an element within a picture, here are the tips given in this video:<br /><ul><li>Enlarge the monitor image to 100% or more.</li><li>Use as large a brush as the surrounding picture elements will allow.</li><li>Don't clone a large area using a single source. Instead, use several sources to avoid establishing a pattern that can be detected by the viewer's eyes. <span style="font-style: italic;">Remember most patterns in nature are random.</span><br /></li></ul>Since the introduction of digital cloning, the process has grown to include an array of options giving the photographer more and increasingly sophisticated options. This article only covers the most basic common cloning features. As you expand your iDarkroom skills you will become familiar with all the options included in your imaging program's cloning tool.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">The real secret to mastering cloning is practice.</span> I know. I say practice often. But there is a knack to performing cloning in a manner that is truly invisible to the viewer. I'm definitely not an artist, but I'm pretty good at cloning. It's a knack that anyone can learn. It just takes practice. So, select a few of your images and force yourself to practice your cloning skills. You will eventually be amazed at what you and your mouse can do to improve your photographs.Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-11507961708016661902008-12-16T11:05:00.000-08:002009-01-05T13:53:44.824-08:00Part 20 - Cropping Digital ImagesWithout a doubt, the first and most frequently used function in any digital imaging program is the <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Cropping Tool</span>. Cropping has been basic to photography since its beginning.<br /><br />Cropping determines the dimensions and boundaries of the final image. In addition, cropping ultimately determines the artistic and aesthetic placement of the central focus of any image.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Cropping occurs twice during the creation of a photograph:</span><br /><ul><li>The first crop is performed in the camera as the photographer composes the picture in the viewfinder. The photographer decides at this time the limits of the scene that will be contained within the 4 borders of the picture as well as the elements (objects) that will be captured.</li><li>The second crop takes place in the iDarkroom. Digital imaging programs contain cropping tools that allow the photographer to perform a final technical and artistic adjustment to define the dimensions and element contents of the final image.</li></ul><span style="font-weight: bold;">A fundamental rule in photography is to crop in the camera.</span> Photographers have long been advised to compose the image in the viewfinder as it is to appear in the final print. There are sound reasons for making this recommendation.<br /><ul><li>Aesthetically, cropping the image in the camera forces the serious photographer to focus on the rules of good composition and to mentally visualize the final image.</li><li>Technically, cropping in the camera produces a digital file that requires less cropping in the iDarkroom which interprets to sharper final prints. Excessive digital cropping and/or enlarging reduces the resolution and, consequently, the quality of the final photograph.</li></ul>In the real world, photographers walk a fine line when they consider cropping. Yes, professional photographers will "pre-visualize" the final image and crop accordingly as they compose the picture in the field or studio. However, to provide some margin of error, most professional photographers will leave a small excess of the original scene on each of the four sides of the viewfinder image. <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">The final cropping almost always takes place in the iDarkroom.</span><br /><br />Because of the importance of cropping to photography, virtually every digital imaging program offers tools to perform this function. I will use cropping examples with Adobe's Lightroom and Photoshop. Most imaging programs will offer a tool with similar functionality.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC4HDdESsEXFFs-OTXI6YtbNXDqShEhSFZPooQfLeXqXwCetn3p2X0FwZrAP9L1F4Q4EQmuR5J4e8JuAFZqZ0DBwpcfBsu1Uzml9vOABxD1h5T9CahObcaU0Mzkfe2JmY7IS-QUszu1Tg/s1600-h/Crop-0342.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC4HDdESsEXFFs-OTXI6YtbNXDqShEhSFZPooQfLeXqXwCetn3p2X0FwZrAP9L1F4Q4EQmuR5J4e8JuAFZqZ0DBwpcfBsu1Uzml9vOABxD1h5T9CahObcaU0Mzkfe2JmY7IS-QUszu1Tg/s400/Crop-0342.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280474895370718418" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Original picture as shot without iDarkroom cropping.</span></span><br /></div><br />This is my sample picture for walking through Lightroom and Photoshop's cropping functions. To match the pre-visualized image of this outstanding photographer (me), some cropping refinement is required.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlJfq68anKtemcSEjJqHX8SLZutRoVRHNiDm77defS6Xw2JC-VqmQaeZmS536fqd8F7O3oJkp-zWqCV8W_KIfWV-ex5-4HLXFxnNnMbYMA_1YEhQGAz4C12vK9blMlOLWWWB-sxruSJEc/s1600-h/Crop-Area.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlJfq68anKtemcSEjJqHX8SLZutRoVRHNiDm77defS6Xw2JC-VqmQaeZmS536fqd8F7O3oJkp-zWqCV8W_KIfWV-ex5-4HLXFxnNnMbYMA_1YEhQGAz4C12vK9blMlOLWWWB-sxruSJEc/s400/Crop-Area.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280475923080797954" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">The area to be eliminated (or "cropped out") is shown in light brown.</span></span><br /></div><br />Shown above is the same image with the areas to be eliminated shaded in brown. <span style="font-style: italic;">Notice: I am not concerned about the size of the final image at this stage.</span> I am only concerned with the contents of the image appearing within the borders of the final print.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdu61jQ9IdSNKfydrWfLBw1I71bt5i0DTAUEIhDg6DwNZYqAykHajvci2RdcRfYNBccJcHxnvKzlnrrJhwRP9136QdLhOsQqsIiK5XUJIbH4j1zg2tKEf3KbjcjTCHtw5bYL2gxrW2LM/s1600-h/LR_CropTool_Scrn_Mstr.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 296px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdu61jQ9IdSNKfydrWfLBw1I71bt5i0DTAUEIhDg6DwNZYqAykHajvci2RdcRfYNBccJcHxnvKzlnrrJhwRP9136QdLhOsQqsIiK5XUJIbH4j1zg2tKEf3KbjcjTCHtw5bYL2gxrW2LM/s400/LR_CropTool_Scrn_Mstr.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280477720876609826" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Cropping Screen with the Lightroom's Develop Module</span></span><br /></div><br />Lightroom's cropping tool (red box above) is available from the program's Develop Module. Clicking on this tool reveals the window shown above. A free-hand cropping icon (shown in green) is available for a click-and-drag cropping. Or, handles that appear on each corner and the center of each side can be clicked-and-dragged to a new location. <span style="font-style: italic;">(Normally, I use the six handles to define the cropped area.)</span><br /><br />An additional convenience provided in Lightroom is the inclusion of <span style="font-style: italic;">"rule of thirds"</span> indicators. Faint grid lines that divide the picture into thirds horizontally and vertically are overlaid on the picture. The four intersections of these grid lines (shown in blue) are the <span style="font-style: italic;">"rule of thirds"</span> points for subject placement. The locations of these points change dynamically as the crop (border lines) is moved -- nice touch for beginning and advanced photographers alike.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivPhx7laD-ehV4RqF6GlAWUxkSWRFrlOlcdXOiDfvADN0HPMNCX8U9E3oAa-SRNUsKjYysYRDIvS5ZiXNHwWyK0XFYnelgD70EP0nH5wilinNEKlqP1Jurg3Vgw2TRoScU6zF0RZxRz9I/s1600-h/LR_Crop_Shaded_Brdr.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 331px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivPhx7laD-ehV4RqF6GlAWUxkSWRFrlOlcdXOiDfvADN0HPMNCX8U9E3oAa-SRNUsKjYysYRDIvS5ZiXNHwWyK0XFYnelgD70EP0nH5wilinNEKlqP1Jurg3Vgw2TRoScU6zF0RZxRz9I/s400/LR_Crop_Shaded_Brdr.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280482119435327042" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Lightroom's Develop Module with Crop Indicated</span></span><br /></div><br />Here is a closer view of the Lightroom screen with the crop lines positioned. The image areas in dark gray will be eliminated (cropped) from the final digital picture. By pushing the "enter" key, the crop will be performed, and the final image appears.<br /><br />Remember from our previous discussion about the non-destructive editing features of programs like Lightroom and Apple's Aperture, the original digital file is <span style="font-weight: bold;">NOT</span> being altered. The information about the crop just performed will be included along with any other corrections in a separate file and applied to this image whenever it is displayed on the monitor. The original uncropped and unaltered file is <span style="font-weight: bold;">ALWAYS</span> retrievable.<br /><br />Let's compare this cropping technique to that used by Photoshop and many similar programs.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYr8ViIpx1PK6PgcyX2ZGMBUTFHtrzM8mikzVezH-rZ_S9jOnJ_oTiUt9pJjgHS9JkZku4DPJaqS-p84Ol84gqxOUSXXXOEFRHYcoGREsGOow8WEizCi_JsZtvyLdeqfgJukZbaDJwRQk/s1600-h/PS_Crop_Tool.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 299px; height: 296px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYr8ViIpx1PK6PgcyX2ZGMBUTFHtrzM8mikzVezH-rZ_S9jOnJ_oTiUt9pJjgHS9JkZku4DPJaqS-p84Ol84gqxOUSXXXOEFRHYcoGREsGOow8WEizCi_JsZtvyLdeqfgJukZbaDJwRQk/s400/PS_Crop_Tool.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280486708274269234" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Photoshop's Crop Tool (in red)</span></span><br /></div><br />In Photoshop, the cropping tool is always present on the left-hand tool bar as shown in the red circle above. This icon has become almost universal and looks similar in other editing programs. Clicking on this tool activates the cropping function.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWsARRDbQ3Aok9Y36-PBk-4BDcZ_PQkZiVymwMbEmYqhz3uGzJPOhZUDLyIwlJcETE19ZrnY2CsOJ5eeWBkKQKI510EZPq_cCF8NwdAthf80ryC_lKXo2tOMjyHVe9hL_pNMFKl-MuQ4A/s1600-h/PS_Crop_Marks.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 331px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWsARRDbQ3Aok9Y36-PBk-4BDcZ_PQkZiVymwMbEmYqhz3uGzJPOhZUDLyIwlJcETE19ZrnY2CsOJ5eeWBkKQKI510EZPq_cCF8NwdAthf80ryC_lKXo2tOMjyHVe9hL_pNMFKl-MuQ4A/s400/PS_Crop_Marks.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280487634289444194" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">The Photoshop crop is indicated and ready for execution</span></span><br /></div><br />In the picture above, the crop tool (a click-and-drag functioning tool) has been positioned as indicated by the "marching ants" marque. After releasing the mouse button, the area to be "cropped out" will be shown in dark gray (above). Notice, much like Lightroom, that six positioning handles also appear when the mouse button is released (red circles above). Using these handles allows for final precision positioning of the borders of the crop. Hitting the "return" or "enter" key completes the cropping function.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9T4IRfMr3-1dYy1UzjikDJPgDWtq4aAbDN4pN4LKK432bnvrJ-FSahMmFnXCCNuMLxmUfsgYtHXG71i07jyvnHUlROLLQM51S3c9suuX9MEG1XlQ613W48RPOGHshmdGUz5D2dWxHTc/s1600-h/Falls-0343.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 259px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9T4IRfMr3-1dYy1UzjikDJPgDWtq4aAbDN4pN4LKK432bnvrJ-FSahMmFnXCCNuMLxmUfsgYtHXG71i07jyvnHUlROLLQM51S3c9suuX9MEG1XlQ613W48RPOGHshmdGUz5D2dWxHTc/s400/Falls-0343.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280501343285704866" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Final cropped picture</span></span><br /></div><br />Remember, Photoshop and similar editing programs work on a destructive editing process. In other words, the original file <span style="font-weight: bold;">HAS</span> been altered. <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;"> So, perform a "SAVE AS" command and use a new file name NOW.</span> This will ensure that the original file will <span style="font-weight: bold;">NOT</span> be overwritten and destroyed.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Simultaneous Cropping and Sizing</span></span><br /><br />It is possible to perform cropping and image re-sizing at the same time with the cropping tool. Having this capability allows the photographer to specify the desired specific print size and print resolution while performing the cropping.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26T56ED7tTe48G7PMgtL3uKL5bVN3awg7OVNw0I51lFhgXAmLS9P10c35hj57I67J8-ALT3DUwEhCAsN2IhtCpHp3Ez8768qbGE-S9KCRwD7tQBjI8uWd9zfNk5JrRQiXsFNjwt_v6i8/s1600-h/Flwr_No_Crop.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26T56ED7tTe48G7PMgtL3uKL5bVN3awg7OVNw0I51lFhgXAmLS9P10c35hj57I67J8-ALT3DUwEhCAsN2IhtCpHp3Ez8768qbGE-S9KCRwD7tQBjI8uWd9zfNk5JrRQiXsFNjwt_v6i8/s400/Flwr_No_Crop.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280494736370838034" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Original picture before cropping and re-sizing</span></span><br /></div><br />This picture requires cropping to correctly position the subject. In addition, I know that a final print with the dimensions of 10" x 8" at 240 ppi is required. With Photoshop's cropping tool, I can perform both operations at once.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijfyWj8QOU6JO-QeDor0S7o9bJKhSsW10zjgwqexn6_oU4wkKgUgle-WcYjaZ_pQWzJnkXlWAWp3QcdSp6zUraY-YiwzTjxtxgivfZZQYblE_61Fa7szf3wwuRnSnMafufuL7JCU6B2LQ/s1600-h/PS_Crop_dimensions.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijfyWj8QOU6JO-QeDor0S7o9bJKhSsW10zjgwqexn6_oU4wkKgUgle-WcYjaZ_pQWzJnkXlWAWp3QcdSp6zUraY-YiwzTjxtxgivfZZQYblE_61Fa7szf3wwuRnSnMafufuL7JCU6B2LQ/s400/PS_Crop_dimensions.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280495456847955426" border="0" /></a><br />Photoshop's cropping and resizing functions<br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br />With the cropping tool selected (red circle above), I can type in specific dimensional attributes in the width, height and resolution boxes (shown within the green circles above). In this case, a width of 10", a height of 8" and a resolution of 240 ppi are typed into the boxes.<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Caution: When you don't want to automatically re-size an image to specific dimensions or PPI resolution, these boxes must be blank. Using the "Clear" button (yellow circle above), will erase any specified sizing in the width, length and resolution boxes.</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2tdiVsZeP_j9a8xrHL67HB04vt_6XYG2fglUmGy8JFrCbdZ5H3ikU9Me-3bPm3rchn2ONe2Tkjfa6ZrcqGY5JazWhu-J2RGkbPmhcbRV38rB-w-eDLf8BThn5n325xaObsrJJZrR8DKQ/s1600-h/PS_Crop_Sized.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 274px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2tdiVsZeP_j9a8xrHL67HB04vt_6XYG2fglUmGy8JFrCbdZ5H3ikU9Me-3bPm3rchn2ONe2Tkjfa6ZrcqGY5JazWhu-J2RGkbPmhcbRV38rB-w-eDLf8BThn5n325xaObsrJJZrR8DKQ/s400/PS_Crop_Sized.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280496399058220690" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Areas to crop are shown in dark gray and the constrained 8"x10" print area is visible.</span></span><br /></div><br />Now, as the click-and-drag is performed with the mouse, the crop is constrained to the proportions of 8"x10". Any crop can be accommodated when you perform this operation, as long as it conforms to the proportion of 8 by 10. The crop and re-sizing is completed by hitting the "return" or "enter" key.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggv5yoROVJ2bB1axn1g7i604B5ALXS0C5FHEn4Kw7az6UAcWH3jY8oFW0XdPNN_wTgZj6uPe4Vn8v6dU9X3id1wRqQE1eOeXMV-CJOOpkxqzMqnPM0V30w9lvNEbzKL9vCRgs5VAXWXCI/s1600-h/Flwr_Final_Sized.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggv5yoROVJ2bB1axn1g7i604B5ALXS0C5FHEn4Kw7az6UAcWH3jY8oFW0XdPNN_wTgZj6uPe4Vn8v6dU9X3id1wRqQE1eOeXMV-CJOOpkxqzMqnPM0V30w9lvNEbzKL9vCRgs5VAXWXCI/s400/Flwr_Final_Sized.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280499889752447154" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Final cropped and re-sized image</span></span><br /></div><br />Check the properties of this image and you will discover that the new cropped image is 8 inches by 10 inches with a resolution of 240 ppi. <span style="font-style: italic;">Remember to save this file under a new file name to prevent overwriting the original file.</span> Most modern image editing programs incorporate this time-saving feature in their cropping tools.<br /><br />You will find that the cropping tool is one of your best friends and most utilized tools. Because of the frequency of use, cropping will soon become second nature.<br /><br /></div></div>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-18299106045385392132008-11-27T11:42:00.000-08:002008-11-27T11:43:25.014-08:00Hub's iDarkroom Table of Contents<div id="toclink"><p>On this page you can see the whole list of posts published.</p> <p>To show the full table of contents, please click on the link below (this may take a few moments to load)</p> <p><a href="javascript:showToc();"><b>Show table of contents</b></a></p> <br/><br/><br/><br/></div> <script style="text/javascript" src="http://bloggerbuster.com/scripts/blogtoc.js"></script> <script src="http://hubsidarkroom.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default?alt=json-in-script&max-results=999&callback=loadtoc"></script> <div id="toc"></div>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-41002394644082544542008-11-16T22:05:00.000-08:002009-01-08T10:28:09.069-08:00Part 19 - Storing Digital ImagesIf there's a downside to your new found photographic passion, it's the fact that there's almost no limit to the number of pictures that can be taken. There's no film to buy. There are no film processing costs. And DSLR data storage cards can be used over and over to spread their cost over hundreds or thousands of pictures.<br /><br />With almost no cost involved, today's DSLR photographers shoot more images than ever. Now the issue is the safe storage of files. Not only the data files from the camera's storage cards, but all the variations made from the files during post processing in image editing programs. Just one file might give birth to several more. Here's an example of the versions in the life of just one digital image:<br /><ul><li>The original camera file that was copied and saved to your computer's hard drive.</li><li>One file in the same size as the original file that has been edited, corrected and saved.</li><li>One file that was re-sized and saved for use on a website.</li><li>One file that was re-sized and saved to make an 8"x10" print for your den.</li><li>One file that was re-sized and saved to appear in a magazine or newspaper.</li></ul>In this case, one original file generated the need to save 4 new files. Multiply this scenario for all your best images and you are soon experiencing a computer hard drive that's overflowing. Most disturbing is the vulnerability of these fragile and irreplaceable files. There are dozens of ways this data can be lost forever, like:<br /><ul><li>power surges</li><li>jarring or dropping a hard drive</li><li>virus attack corrupting the hard drive</li><li>computer being stolen<br /></li><li>the hard drive wearing out over time from normal use</li><li>your 8-year old types "reformat"<br /></li><li>alien computer abductions.<br /></li></ul>It's obvious some regular and "adhered to" back up process is necessary for image security and peace of mind. The Internet is filled with suggestions for backing up your images -- some good, some bad.<br /><br />I will describe the procedure I use for backing up and storing my images. My method is not necessarily any better, but it has provided me with the confidence to know that my images are protected and always retrievable.<br /><br />To start with, my primary imaging computer is an iMac. (No, that's not a recommendation, it's just the digital imaging computer I grew up with and am most comfortable using.) The current Mac OS has an automatic back up feature called <a href="http://www.apple.com/macosx/features/timemachine.html"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Time Machine</span></a>. I have a dedicated 750GB hard drive that is used by Time Machine to provide an <span style="font-weight: bold;">HOURLY</span> backup of my "changed" or new files.<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">I use the Time Machine feature as a secondary backup (sort of a "just in case" copy of my files). </span> My primary back up device is a 1 terabyte <a href="http://www.seagate.com/ww/v/index.jsp?locale=en-US&name=fa_desktop&vgnextoid=bcd8d59424b8e010VgnVCM100000dd04090aRCRD">Seagate external hard drive</a> that stores an exact copy of my computer's hard drive that is created every morning at 2 a.m. using a backup program called <a href="http://www.shirt-pocket.com/SuperDuper/SuperDuperDescription.html"><span style="font-weight: bold;">SuperDuper</span></a>. This primary back up drive is connected to my computer by Firewire (rather than USB) to provide faster copy speeds. If you have more than one computer or are part of a network, this "image-dedicated" back up drive can also be installed to allow back up over the network.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgInGFgxm-EGej3129vjBqa_SQs-GoNtwMAqpIVanbM_7ajOuX5JlAqBJBG6lYsl09NMD8WRiVnkVUdBw8MziES7LFQbH1HggTnFxHbvPoYwaOjE-e5tN-aM6iflmNL3QaFOFojTOGyDGc/s1600-h/Storage_Segate_FreeAgent.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 192px; height: 288px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgInGFgxm-EGej3129vjBqa_SQs-GoNtwMAqpIVanbM_7ajOuX5JlAqBJBG6lYsl09NMD8WRiVnkVUdBw8MziES7LFQbH1HggTnFxHbvPoYwaOjE-e5tN-aM6iflmNL3QaFOFojTOGyDGc/s400/Storage_Segate_FreeAgent.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5269515903056965586" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0); font-style: italic;">Seagate Free Agent, 1 Terabyte External Hard Drive</span></span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Here is the process I follow for uploading and protecting the files coming from my DSLR:<br /><ol><li>Using Lightroom's import feature I transfer the files from my data card to a dedicated Lightroom image folder.</li><li>I then make a second copy of the same files into a dedicated holding folder on my external terabyte hard drive.</li><li>I then erase the original files from my data card for re-use.</li><li>SuperDuper and Time Machine perform their timed back ups to ensure my original and edited images are backed up on two separate hard drives.</li><li>Over time the Holding Folder on my terabyte drive grows in size. When the folder reaches 4 gigabytes, I copy the folder to a DVD for long term storage. The files in the Holding Folder are then erased in preparation for the next series of images. I am very careful to store my DVDs in a safe environment to maximize their life.<br /></li></ol>There is much dispute over the life expectancy of CDs and DVDs, but they are the best alternative available today. The better (and more expensive) DVDs do have a longer projected life expectancy. Since there's little likelihood that these DVDs will be needed on a regular basis, it's a good idea to consider storing them off-site (i.e. safety deposit box, under grandma's bed, etc.). If the worst ever happened and something catastrophic happened to your digital darkroom, your original image files would be safe.<br /><br />In total, I have 4 copies of my original files and 3 copies of any new or altered versions I create from the original image files. Although my procedure isn't bullet proof, it does allow me to sleep better at night.<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Not long ago, the expense of 750GB and 1 terabyte drives made this back up process financially prohibitive and other alternatives like storing images on Internet services were more attractive. However, the cost of large capacity hard drives has dropped dramatically and is within the reach of most photographers.</span> <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Be sure to research and compare hard drives to determine the positives and negatives that real users are experiencing.</span><br /><br />Finally, with the exception of Time Machine, these same procedures are adaptable to any PC platform and operating system.<br /><br /></div></div>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-70347764853165285812008-11-11T14:43:00.000-08:002009-01-08T10:26:47.664-08:00Part 18 - Resizing Digital ImagesLike an enlarger in a traditional darkroom, images can be re-sized in the digital iDarkroom to suit the requirements of the job. The computer replaces the enlarger, and a new set of tools as well as technical jargon are used to make these necessary image conversions. This article will provide the basic information required to re-size pictures to their required dimensions and resolution.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/photoshop/">Adobe's Photoshop</a> will be used as the editing tool, but the lessons learned here are applicable to nearly all image editing software. As you become more proficient with your own image editing software, you'll discover that there are several ways of re-sizing an image. But the most basic and most common method will be explained in this primer.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUTzqxsihe12wXqH7D43i4YCvEPcjhwuv6HtuRGXmLw9B9GEnrL7yTe9SIDD_0diqN0BN4Gd2P8kUAT9L7hPiZErkMAxWy__FzQt5DahxapuKICsUkhGUIQUYLxKDNQkgwosYDk49MuMA/s1600-h/Resize_original_PS_dimensions.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 197px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUTzqxsihe12wXqH7D43i4YCvEPcjhwuv6HtuRGXmLw9B9GEnrL7yTe9SIDD_0diqN0BN4Gd2P8kUAT9L7hPiZErkMAxWy__FzQt5DahxapuKICsUkhGUIQUYLxKDNQkgwosYDk49MuMA/s400/Resize_original_PS_dimensions.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5267536119681487346" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Photoshop workspace with original image, "Histogram" and "Image Size" window</span></span><br /></div><br />The illustration above is a portion of Photoshop's workspace and shows the picture to be used in this article, the <span style="font-weight: bold;">Histogram</span> and the <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">"Image Size"</span> window. The picture is taken directly from the camera with no editing applied. For my purpose, this picture requires some <span style="font-weight: bold;">cropping, image enhancement and resizing</span>. It's these steps that will be walked through and discussed.<br /><br />Accessing the Image Size tool in Photoshop is straightforward.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5n6UskQ7r0EX20cdftskRAzHONMFctyOgusZ91m1sNikmWRySTcc8DcZvd-uTIPhRQ4jCsiixuEF31fndaUiSce5mLlGDA2FdwKcXmbwTO7_nU3k4-euM5e8CybiyNjcNJxgVS4tIUnI/s1600-h/Resize_PullDown+SizeMenu.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 265px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5n6UskQ7r0EX20cdftskRAzHONMFctyOgusZ91m1sNikmWRySTcc8DcZvd-uTIPhRQ4jCsiixuEF31fndaUiSce5mLlGDA2FdwKcXmbwTO7_nU3k4-euM5e8CybiyNjcNJxgVS4tIUnI/s400/Resize_PullDown+SizeMenu.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5267557294741548050" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Accessing the Image Size Tool in Photoshop</span></span><br /></div><br />To activate the Image Size tool in Photoshop, use the "Image" drop-down menu in the main bar and select <span style="font-weight: bold;">"Image Size..."</span> (shown above).<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsXjliEPOjfZjRldG59rb-a1eAFJBY7_nw_HeqdO3eYFNOvet9Avd9CCjxpNHN8O3DqM7GmmvHOAayXYJaObnxPJCds4i7GOaeqAgyoijuUw66EDp5d9sN71Z-SOE5AQt7YOFoIe0pMZc/s1600-h/Resize_original_PS_ImageSizeMenu.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 315px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsXjliEPOjfZjRldG59rb-a1eAFJBY7_nw_HeqdO3eYFNOvet9Avd9CCjxpNHN8O3DqM7GmmvHOAayXYJaObnxPJCds4i7GOaeqAgyoijuUw66EDp5d9sN71Z-SOE5AQt7YOFoIe0pMZc/s400/Resize_original_PS_ImageSizeMenu.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5267535974787595602" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Close up of the "Image Size" window</span></span><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br />Here's the <span style="font-weight: bold;">Image Size</span> window in a size that's actually legible. Most of the explanations and procedures in this re-sizing article require the use of this <span style="font-weight: bold;">Image Size</span> tool. The information initially presented in the <span style="font-weight: bold;">Image Size</span> window provides the current technical "size" details of the image as well as entry boxes for altering any dimensions.<br /><br />The <span style="font-weight: bold;">Pixel Dimensions</span> section (red box) shows the size of the image in terms of pixels. In this case, the dimensions are of an image that came directly from the camera -- 3872 pixels wide by 2592 pixels high. The <span style="font-weight: bold;">Document Size</span> section (green box) indicates exactly how large the image would be if printed right now. In this case the measurement scale is set in inches. So a print from this image would measure 16.133 inches by 10.8 inches with a resolution of 240 pixels per inch. (<span style="font-weight: bold;">Document Size</span> is the measurement for the entire printable area -- not necessarily the size of the picture on the document. More on printable area in just a moment.)<br /><br />My first editing task is to crop the image to include only the portion of the picture needed for the final print.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1PF8yuGYlwdtw4qrZXbV1UDFAfAh0M08WASiuWh66Mns7NrjKIq98JEBYkUZa-ye7ezo00o5mONfQbEgan6J9iCPUGmsVE4DaWyqSrvvXO5l6qrVlrgeq2LxVTprpVKpT50piTNLFglc/s1600-h/Resize_Cropping_Screen.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 276px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1PF8yuGYlwdtw4qrZXbV1UDFAfAh0M08WASiuWh66Mns7NrjKIq98JEBYkUZa-ye7ezo00o5mONfQbEgan6J9iCPUGmsVE4DaWyqSrvvXO5l6qrVlrgeq2LxVTprpVKpT50piTNLFglc/s400/Resize_Cropping_Screen.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5267545596326293842" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Cropping Tool in Photoshop can be seen as the marque lines in this screen picture</span></span><br /></div><br />Use of the cropping function will be explained in later articles, but for this example notice the cropping <span style="font-style: italic;">marque lines (the marching ants as Adobe would say)</span> that define where my cropping will occur. (I'm taking a little image area off each end of the picture.) With the crop area visually defined, hit ENTER. The crop is completed and appears on my monitor.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjMvZM0LXvAe51UAEwfz0f3pAjy1VYy5ARl4K0TAGYkukQePGETa1peXkr2hHWK90gZ3pE028W-xldYxJtrtqVa1DDVHMXFoCgcRpjUGoqAxwTbKV-9O9uRKMF-P28_LjGlvY9WOebjPQ/s1600-h/Resize_Size_After_Crop.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 288px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjMvZM0LXvAe51UAEwfz0f3pAjy1VYy5ARl4K0TAGYkukQePGETa1peXkr2hHWK90gZ3pE028W-xldYxJtrtqVa1DDVHMXFoCgcRpjUGoqAxwTbKV-9O9uRKMF-P28_LjGlvY9WOebjPQ/s400/Resize_Size_After_Crop.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5267546798400811074" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;">The new Image Size information after the crop was performed.</span></span><br /></div><br />Remember the original size of this image was 16.133 inches by 10.8 inches. The new cropped size (seen above) is 14.917 inches by 10.8 inches. This new dimension reflects the fact that I cropped (approximately) one inch off the ends of the original picture. The crop function has also caused the overall file size to become smaller. The number next to the words "Pixel Dimensions" indicates the current file size. This cropped image reduced the file size from 57.4 megabytes to 53.1. What happened to the other 4.3 megabytes of image information? It was trashed.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Next I <span style="color: rgb(204, 0, 0);">SAVE</span> the image under a new name to avoid corrupting my original image file.</span><br /><br />Then with a little Photoshop magic I apply the color, density, saturation, etc. adjustments needed to create a masterpiece. (These steps are not covered in this article.) When done making corrections, I again <span style="color: rgb(204, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">SAVE</span> the file.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsLnYivtvs_c9kFeyiSllOu0wuPuiZUxyelNpJkgVinZLGD-KupnYpj9xjQCGvJaWRMiUO3CYkOEOXwPmvHMBrIY7fIdFFdSU9D3Q6IbYrduQVTAsgJrEoYymNln_MwPqwfTedY79yNFA/s1600-h/Resize_Final_Image.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 294px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsLnYivtvs_c9kFeyiSllOu0wuPuiZUxyelNpJkgVinZLGD-KupnYpj9xjQCGvJaWRMiUO3CYkOEOXwPmvHMBrIY7fIdFFdSU9D3Q6IbYrduQVTAsgJrEoYymNln_MwPqwfTedY79yNFA/s400/Resize_Final_Image.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5267551070535414034" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Cropped image with corrections applied</span></span> <span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">as seen in Photoshop</span></span><br /></div><br />That was easy. Now I need to re-size the image for its intended use. Some of the possible uses include:<br /><ol><li>Producing a print from my printer</li><li>Producing an image file for reproduction in a printed publication</li><li>Producing an image file that can be used in a digital slide show or on the Internet.</li></ol>Each of these possible uses has unique image size parameters. It's these parameters that determine the specifications entered into the <span style="font-weight: bold;">Image Size</span> window.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">1. Resizing the photo for printing on your home printer</span><br /><br />You'll see much debate on photo blogs and forums about the resolution (pixels per inch or PPI) required to make a good print in your iDarkoom. The recommendations range from 200 to 300 PPI. I know from my career at a major photo printer manufacturer that my printer works best at 240 PPI. Using a pixel per inch setting higher than 300 has little or no impact on the quality of the final print. So, when I set up an image for printing at home, 240 PPI is my target resolution.<br /><br />All I need to know now is what size I want to make the print. For example's sake, let's size the existing 14.917 inches by 10.8 inches x 240 PPI to fit on a standard 8"x10" piece of photo paper with at least a 1/2 inch border for framing purposes.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvvyHoyeNEmR1RXYzY_Qikc83iCcWrluQiTEe_fw2QHAuwR-e7oOVCDIdeNmWhT9B_zClJQv-nomlQXRFZ5czTM2c14upT3a0cMMWGd8Un22JA_U4nr7Qnbv3Hfwp6a4fEE_6QnwgfYlk/s1600-h/Resize_to_9x6x240.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 281px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvvyHoyeNEmR1RXYzY_Qikc83iCcWrluQiTEe_fw2QHAuwR-e7oOVCDIdeNmWhT9B_zClJQv-nomlQXRFZ5czTM2c14upT3a0cMMWGd8Un22JA_U4nr7Qnbv3Hfwp6a4fEE_6QnwgfYlk/s400/Resize_to_9x6x240.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5267557063852193442" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Image sizing for an 8"x10" print</span></span><br /></div><br /><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">First, the Golden Rule for re-sizing operations: Reducing the physical dimensions or the resolution (PPI) of an image is OK. Enlarging any of these parameters will introduce some degree of quality and visual imperfections.</span> More to come.<br /><br />In the picture above, I have entered a new value for the width of this image -- 9 inches. The height of the image AUTOMATICALLY changed to the correct proportional value -- 6.516 inches. Why did the height change when I entered 9 inches for the width? Because I checked the box labeled <span style="font-weight: bold;">"Constrain Proportions"</span>. This instruction tells Photoshop to keep all sides in proportion to the original image. This relationship is shown in the green box above by the lines and padlock icon. Change one height/width dimension, and the remaining dimension changes automatically to <span style="font-style: italic;">constrain the proportions</span>.<br /><br />Since I want the image to print at a resolution of 240 PPI, I do NOT want the original resolution of 240 PPI to change. I ensure this PPI is retained by CHECKING the RESAMPLE box shown in red. If I had not CHECKED this box the resolution would also have changed in proportion to the new 9" width dimension I entered. (With RESAMPLING off and since I technically made the picture smaller than the original, the PPI number would have automatically increased to reflect the smaller image size.)<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">If you're asking why the height dimension shown in the Document Size area is 6.516 and not 7 inches to give me a 9"x7" print on the 8"x10" piece of paper, then please read my article entitled </span><a style="font-weight: bold;" href="http://hubsphotographytips.blogspot.com/2008/11/proportions-in-photography.html">"Proportions in Photography"</a><span style="font-weight: bold;"> on my </span><a style="font-weight: bold;" href="http://hubsphotographytips.blogspot.com/">Hub's Photography Tips</a><span style="font-weight: bold;"> blog site.</span><br /><br />Clicking on OK completes this re-sizing operation. Then <span style="color: rgb(204, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">SAVE</span> the image, and you're ready to print.<br /><br />It's time to explain <span style="font-weight: bold;">"printable area"</span> and its relationship to <span style="font-weight: bold;">Document Size</span>. In the above example, the <span style="font-weight: bold;">Document Size</span> is the <span style="font-weight: bold;">"printable area"</span>. Consequently, the pixel dimensions of the image and the <span style="font-weight: bold;">Document Size</span> are exactly the same. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Document Size</span> does NOT refer to the paper being used in the printer. It only refers to the size of the complete image that will be sent to the printer.<br /><br />An example should help. Many photographers make the artistic decision to print their picture on paper larger than the image they are preparing. This layout can be accomplished in Photoshop by enlarging the entire "canvas" that the picture occupies.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvbZY1XVIlQzY7DI2gY8AL5sxDbYgFmoYcfEJ4TqzApWD8hS5gV72k8_SY0ks8oHW-Q5AcAMqW5Qb9hw5Ez46zPvdFzg3ZsSWzAGzW4qcLyauUK3M5xAqEOzM7uTH8zt0UtgvnRJ30XG4/s1600-h/Resize_CanvasSize_Menu.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 293px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvbZY1XVIlQzY7DI2gY8AL5sxDbYgFmoYcfEJ4TqzApWD8hS5gV72k8_SY0ks8oHW-Q5AcAMqW5Qb9hw5Ez46zPvdFzg3ZsSWzAGzW4qcLyauUK3M5xAqEOzM7uTH8zt0UtgvnRJ30XG4/s400/Resize_CanvasSize_Menu.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5267655520821094930" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Canvas Size Window in Photoshop</span></span><br /></div><br />A function called <span style="font-weight: bold;">Canvas Size</span> under the <span style="font-weight: bold;">Image</span> pull-down menu activates the window shown above. Size values can be entered in the height and width boxes to increase the size of the canvas. It's important to remember that <span style="font-weight: bold;">Canvas Size</span> function doesn't enlarge the image. Instead it adds new canvas space AROUND the existing image.<br /><br />Using the example picture, I want to print the original cropped file (14.917 inches by 10.8 inches) onto a 13"x19" piece of fine art paper. I also want to control exactly where on this large piece of paper my image will appear. To make this happen I:<br /><ul><li>enter the new <span style="font-weight: bold;">canvas width and height</span> information into the boxes (green oval),</li><li>instruct the computer to place my image in the center of this new canvas by clicking on the CENTER box in the <span style="font-weight: bold;">Anchor</span> selection section (blue oval), and<br /></li><li>select "white" as the color of my canvas using the <span style="font-weight: bold;">canvas extension color</span> menu</li></ul><span style="font-weight: bold;">Notice that the size of this file has now increased to 81.4 megabytes -- due to adding the extra white canvas area to the file.</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwrwcS9XfL-V6d7LuNZhsrjLmbh_iUYEzfFBSf0FWOW2yhtoMeHFvJJ-q4HsAjnmdh9MOk2a6Qoc6AqHTyI191Cwh9od1V2tEoUmmf4YOPbO9_VpUr-sBw-8Xlcb1Z2tvs_JmTbTwqIzc/s1600-h/Resize_13x19_Canvas.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 277px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwrwcS9XfL-V6d7LuNZhsrjLmbh_iUYEzfFBSf0FWOW2yhtoMeHFvJJ-q4HsAjnmdh9MOk2a6Qoc6AqHTyI191Cwh9od1V2tEoUmmf4YOPbO9_VpUr-sBw-8Xlcb1Z2tvs_JmTbTwqIzc/s400/Resize_13x19_Canvas.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5267660446662492098" border="0" /></a><br />New 13"x19" Canvas<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Now the monitor displays the original picture placed on a 13"x19 white canvas. The picture-only portion of the canvas was then moved upward on the canvas by one inch to give it the proper visual positioning for mounting.<br /><br />One more time, open the <span style="font-weight: bold;">Image Size</span> window and the impact of changing the canvas size is apparent in the <span style="font-weight: bold;">Document Size</span> section.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8aGUovO73tKb_mKhHJ0RIxjRufk9t1FIWU03kVdliLBMfvzn51s3Y0wi2jNRJ6B6EMSwjRu4OQiMHsuWC2yYiUJquRoKdaf2TCUbqkDoZFRXaWznuHb1fkEJBruHr_kvQRFz3tEV_tw0/s1600-h/Resize_13x19_Imagesize.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 314px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8aGUovO73tKb_mKhHJ0RIxjRufk9t1FIWU03kVdliLBMfvzn51s3Y0wi2jNRJ6B6EMSwjRu4OQiMHsuWC2yYiUJquRoKdaf2TCUbqkDoZFRXaWznuHb1fkEJBruHr_kvQRFz3tEV_tw0/s400/Resize_13x19_Imagesize.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5267663962710484226" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Image Size information after the canvas was enlarged</span></span><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br />The new Document Size is 13"x19" even though we know that the image on the canvas is 14.917 inches by 10.8 inches. The entire 13"x19" canvas is the printable area and is reflected in the Document Size. In addition the Image Size window reports that the file size is now 81.4 megabytes. So, (in the <span style="font-weight: bold;">Image Size</span> window) <span style="font-weight: bold;">Document Size</span> equals the actual image size only when the <span style="font-weight: bold;">Canvas Size</span> equals the actual image size.<br /></div></div></div></div><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">2. Producing an image file for reproduction in a printed publication</span><br /><br />OK, <span style="font-style: italic;">National Geographic Magazine</span> has called and wants to use this picture in an upcoming issue. Happens every day. Right.<br /><br />The magazine's specifications require an image with a PPI of 300. I <span style="color: rgb(204, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">SAVED</span> my initial cropped and corrected image file, and it is currently sized at 14.917 inches by 10.8 inches x 240 PPI.<br /><br />All I need to do is re-size the image to <span style="font-style: italic;">National Geographic's</span> specifications.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsEtx3H3Ty737AQI_wbcPQzvGlvxr9Zv4Kzr8f6QLOfLgxNZBnlcVYCBO14RwZ4-QSfXyDllbgLAdqpsPDfzt7L1KT8USCPI7mU6PTdVlLxHb8F9VCh9F8gpfERk_2xjmrn4iL4uSF1CQ/s1600-h/Resize_to_11x8x300.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 281px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsEtx3H3Ty737AQI_wbcPQzvGlvxr9Zv4Kzr8f6QLOfLgxNZBnlcVYCBO14RwZ4-QSfXyDllbgLAdqpsPDfzt7L1KT8USCPI7mU6PTdVlLxHb8F9VCh9F8gpfERk_2xjmrn4iL4uSF1CQ/s400/Resize_to_11x8x300.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5267571607774724418" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Resizing for magazine publication</span></span><br /></div><br />Opening the "Image Size..." window, I can change the single variable -- Resolution -- in the Document Size/Resolution box (shown in green) to 300. This time, however, I UNCHECKED the RESAMPLE box (see above). Consequently all three dimensional attributes are LOCKED together and the width and height of the image AUTOMATICALLY change to remain in proportion to new 300 PPI entry. (11.933 inches by 8.64 inches) Clicking OK will complete the change. Then <span style="color: rgb(204, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">SAVE</span> the altered file under a new name. <span style="font-style: italic;">(Impress others by including the words National Geographic in the new file name.)</span><br /><br />When the photo editor at National Geographic receives this file, it will be given final sizing as it is placed in their digital publishing program. All that's left to do is cash the check.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">3. Producing an image file that can be used in a digital slide show or on the Internet</span><br /><br />All of the images I use for Hub's photo blogs must be resized to accommodate the specifications of my visitors' monitors. This means that I must place images into my blogs that have a PPI of 72. I also limit the height and width dimensions of these images to a maximum value of 6 inches for either side. So now I have my parameters, let's convert the same picture for use on this blog site.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfJqmBZXPXU82cvEvSHYsDXe9RgbwNfXOWKSFLqct6BFtbOxznQ68BooPYCcBcGhAX_yau7z0YsIf9mHq2hlMQVQ_ugpgya1k8rfSe9VawYCiG9nkkCG_HRB-Jxsi2PH2r45E7s964KwA/s1600-h/Resize_to_6x4x72.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 281px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfJqmBZXPXU82cvEvSHYsDXe9RgbwNfXOWKSFLqct6BFtbOxznQ68BooPYCcBcGhAX_yau7z0YsIf9mHq2hlMQVQ_ugpgya1k8rfSe9VawYCiG9nkkCG_HRB-Jxsi2PH2r45E7s964KwA/s400/Resize_to_6x4x72.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5267575112216028914" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Resizing for Internet or Monitor Slide Shows</span></span><br /></div><br />The original images I produce for these blogs are always larger than the image that is ultimately placed on the blog page. To reduce the size of my images, I use the "Image Size..." tool as shown above. This example picture is horizontal (wider than it is tall). I enter "6" in the width box. Because the "Constrain Proportions" box is CHECKED, the Height dimension automatically changes to 4.344 inches. I've also CHECKED the RESAMPLE IMAGE box to allow me to enter a new PPI of 72 in the RESOLUTION box (inside the green oval).<br /><br />Clicking OK completes the action and results in an image with the dimensions of 6 inches by 4.344 inches by 72 PPI. I <span style="color: rgb(204, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">SAVE</span> this file under a new name, and it's ready to upload to my blog page.<br /><br />Note: The Resizing Golden Rule states that enlarging a picture beyond its original dimensions and PPI constraints is to be avoided. As has been stated in earlier articles on this blog, making this type of enlargement involves interpolating the image. To make this happen Photoshop and all image editing programs must "make up" digital data. In other words, in order to provide enough pixels to comply with your enlargement request, the software must "guess" what the missing pixels would have been. Photoshop is pretty good at guessing, but it's still just a guess.<br /><br />So if you must enlarge a picture larger than its technical specification, do it sparingly and keep the enlargement as small as possible. In practical terms, if the file out of your camera is capable of making a horizontal print that's say 12"x9" without any interpolation at 240 PPI, can you enlarge the picture to 14" wide with the same 240 PPI without noticeable quality loss? The anwer is YES. Can you make a print that's 24" wide? The answer is again YES. But at this more extreme enlargement size, you will see a quality difference. <span style="font-weight: bold;">In fact, you can make this picture ANY size you want, but the more it's enlarged the more noticeable the imperfections caused by interpolation will become.</span><br /><br />As I mentioned at the beginning of this article, there are several ways to re-size pictures using today's image editing programs. The method explained here will be used for the majority of your work and is common to most imaging software.<br /><br />If you have questions or comments regarding this primer on re-sizing digital image files, please let me know.<br /><br /></div></div>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-30056578365638733952008-11-09T14:31:00.000-08:002009-01-05T14:31:01.849-08:00Part 17 - Getting Started with LayersIf there was a single feature that catapulted <a href="http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/photoshop/">Photoshop</a> to the top choice position for photographers and graphic artists, it has to be LAYERS. Today, and a decade after Photoshop first introduced layers, the feature has become a standard, must-have capability of every serious image editing program. At the same time, <span style="font-style: italic;">"Please explain layers"</span>, is one of the most frequent requests I receive at seminars and workshops from beginning photographers.<br /><br />This post will provide the basic instructions for using layers in <a href="http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/photoshop/">Photoshop</a> taking a very simple, but very typical, project.<br /><br />When my family moved to Vancouver, Washington a couple of years ago, we left behind our family and friends who were located in the midwest and east coast. Not long after our moving announcement, I started receiving concerns from relatives about Vancouver's close proximity to Mount St. Helens -- about 40 miles to the east. This "east of the Mississippi" concern seemed like an ideal situation for some photographic humor. The components of the image I envisioned are shown below.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmTQujYSszi9ShrKFM9oJibS9M5UldpIb850ykePdntxc0LukxRdV6aDzCsoYCaIqCujbL_rzJkBj4z1q5o8TidkQJcesyyJYJHsu3GcwxCLM7m4wm6AYQyiP3X5jmnuSETN_uDJNWiSU/s1600-h/home_original.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmTQujYSszi9ShrKFM9oJibS9M5UldpIb850ykePdntxc0LukxRdV6aDzCsoYCaIqCujbL_rzJkBj4z1q5o8TidkQJcesyyJYJHsu3GcwxCLM7m4wm6AYQyiP3X5jmnuSETN_uDJNWiSU/s400/home_original.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266791660411471586" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Hub's Palatial Vancouver Estate -- no St. Helens in sight</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsm0rUMW3foymn7I4tfX7ah4AOoiDlTpHdzh4PMM8pl-iiqOIMoX19QN9IRI7xfZ-13_y39VViQhqraQTHTLaErB55sZdBlKhU7RbLRkizVeN-tvgTzAZuMZmTFiL5LtEuGi-118eAOpA/s1600-h/AtHelens_original.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 310px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsm0rUMW3foymn7I4tfX7ah4AOoiDlTpHdzh4PMM8pl-iiqOIMoX19QN9IRI7xfZ-13_y39VViQhqraQTHTLaErB55sZdBlKhU7RbLRkizVeN-tvgTzAZuMZmTFiL5LtEuGi-118eAOpA/s400/AtHelens_original.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266792004346500914" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0); font-style: italic;">Mt. St. Helens</span></span><br /></div><br />My goal was to combine these two images to produce a believable image that made St. Helens appear to be in the backyard of our new home. This was definitely a job for Photoshop LAYERS feature.<br /><br />Layers can be compared to pieces of clear plastic that are layered on top of each other. Each of these layers can contain any portion of the final overall image. Walking through this project should make this concept more easily understood.<br /><br />I started by opening both images in Photoshop. I first worked on the image of the house by selecting all of the parts of the original house image that I wanted to retain in the final combined image. <span style="font-style: italic;">(The various methods for selecting portions of a picture will be covered in other posts.)</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUzRj2muagZDM-pqNIDGAWAwqCi6Cj_BkRGNQQOvSCvOPbVsfcYH4g8OCW8vjivKV6yB_aTm2z_PQzfWo5JJohBOvXhfmcCIl8xkpbmZzQoLpj7Aqe5J9iTYhzZWZAsOgkux-vFFp3h7Y/s1600-h/House_mask_houseonly.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 277px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUzRj2muagZDM-pqNIDGAWAwqCi6Cj_BkRGNQQOvSCvOPbVsfcYH4g8OCW8vjivKV6yB_aTm2z_PQzfWo5JJohBOvXhfmcCIl8xkpbmZzQoLpj7Aqe5J9iTYhzZWZAsOgkux-vFFp3h7Y/s400/House_mask_houseonly.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266795507678245378" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">The areas shown in red have been selected for use in the composite picture</span></span><br /></div><br />The Photoshop image above shows all the selected areas shaded in red. This portion of the original image will be placed in a layer ON TOP OF the Mt. St. Helens picture.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRLdfHNEU6BUNL_VwxTTqiRDOAXt_-LKI0opdlo9EY-jCjgdEr2dCHE2qMDp_H-l-FR_U5O9fdyOx1w0fGhodYICyLypQasSV-VK_OS2Oalq-wAbZkaP0Jke7Ysjdz_GopWlUz-M9ikG8/s1600-h/House_w_masked_sky.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 277px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRLdfHNEU6BUNL_VwxTTqiRDOAXt_-LKI0opdlo9EY-jCjgdEr2dCHE2qMDp_H-l-FR_U5O9fdyOx1w0fGhodYICyLypQasSV-VK_OS2Oalq-wAbZkaP0Jke7Ysjdz_GopWlUz-M9ikG8/s400/House_w_masked_sky.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266796625826133826" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">The area shown in red above will NOT be used in the combined image</span></span><br /></div><br />Still looking at the original picture, the area shown in red above was NOT selected and will not be used in the combined picture. <span style="font-weight: bold;"> It's important to note that this red area (since it is NOT selected) will appear as CLEAR in the final image.</span> In this case, CLEAR means that anything contained on the layer(s) behind will be seen through this "clear window".<br /><br />With the house selected, I next performed a <span style="font-weight: bold;">"copy"</span> from Photoshop's <span style="font-weight: bold;">Edit</span> menu. Now I clicked on the picture of St. Helens to activate that window. Then I perform a <span style="font-weight: bold;">PASTE</span> from Photoshop's Edit menu.<br /><br />Two operations will happen automatically during this <span style="font-weight: bold;">PASTE</span> command:<br /><ul><li>A new blank layer will be created in the St. Helens picture (laying immediately on top of the Mt. St. Helens image).</li><li>The image that I selected in the original house picture will be <span style="font-weight: bold;">PASTED</span> onto the newly created layer.</li></ul>Shown below is the result of this <span style="font-weight: bold;">PASTE</span> operation.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1iUMKCusnn2Bqyl_IAO02O6x7FC50LdgCiZs6hPrfGr1a8hGew9KC7_qsnczsHavu0AVrJrGh7X3gVRJV5GL0U8XNDaNoB1hUvKnnKEtOHR3o902PZSY8pyvWMPdFEAi1yZssCgwz77Y/s1600-h/Home+Helens.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1iUMKCusnn2Bqyl_IAO02O6x7FC50LdgCiZs6hPrfGr1a8hGew9KC7_qsnczsHavu0AVrJrGh7X3gVRJV5GL0U8XNDaNoB1hUvKnnKEtOHR3o902PZSY8pyvWMPdFEAi1yZssCgwz77Y/s400/Home+Helens.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266799493299823058" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Image with the selected house picture "pasted" onto the layer above the St. Helens background image.</span></span><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil-1b97nSxh_UN3Nl_2xA5sOYz_vZxck-66mjhEz0bDn8RZKbjya1ZKTOKvY3ejPtZuoS3opEVdiHxMFb2LW7IIWClcV9QW1GeekqE3Fb-QgXdKxE2ntZT-8MuXaepmKA5Yvs6f_BDehU/s1600-h/mask_peal.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 265px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil-1b97nSxh_UN3Nl_2xA5sOYz_vZxck-66mjhEz0bDn8RZKbjya1ZKTOKvY3ejPtZuoS3opEVdiHxMFb2LW7IIWClcV9QW1GeekqE3Fb-QgXdKxE2ntZT-8MuXaepmKA5Yvs6f_BDehU/s400/mask_peal.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266798627027643362" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Here the house "layer" (top layer) is peeled back to show the hidden portions of the St. Helens image in the background layer (bottom layer).</span></span><br /></div><br />The first picture above shows the results of pasting the house image onto the original St. Helens image. The second picture above has peeled back the top layer (house) to reveal what is hidden of the St. Helen's image. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Notice: all that is seen of Mt. St. Helens is the portion of the original image that was BEHIND the CLEAR area of the house picture.</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNltFpu57VU23nftBpW6VipzE7tz1nWdcsXaHPD9FCW5uAHTTW37qjFwXZTtWGMHT1Bj_n8dueV5ra085bs0bMggaG5ScTEDZ29I61i-p5k2NsARFh6Usb0VyWxDqwlYyBbmMU4ZTVO9E/s1600-h/House_w_layermenu.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 212px; height: 227px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNltFpu57VU23nftBpW6VipzE7tz1nWdcsXaHPD9FCW5uAHTTW37qjFwXZTtWGMHT1Bj_n8dueV5ra085bs0bMggaG5ScTEDZ29I61i-p5k2NsARFh6Usb0VyWxDqwlYyBbmMU4ZTVO9E/s400/House_w_layermenu.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266801441603707410" border="0" /></a><br />The "Layer" menu window for this completed project<br /></div><br />The Layer menu shown above indicates the layers of this image and their relationship to each other.<br /><ul><li>Background layer = Mt. St. Helens</li><li>Layer 1 (located above the background layer) = The selected portion of the original House picture.</li></ul>Notice each layer is displaying an <span style="font-weight: bold;">"eye"</span> icon (inside red circle). Clicking the <span style="font-weight: bold;">"eye"</span> icons turns that layer on-and-off to allow the user to check the contents of each layer.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ8HJukCtKEn_vpFzX6iCuzEjCQypk-MCpe2Zx5F7lxL8TQDn7KnI45zMWvvqLTJIN_9bJ5l4xFTjsxphCJIBXXae0HcKj1j7gKvGpLLsno-0M0KF_hbz-KoTJh5fFhqe_xhskvlZ_5JQ/s1600-h/House_layermenu_houseonly.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 277px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ8HJukCtKEn_vpFzX6iCuzEjCQypk-MCpe2Zx5F7lxL8TQDn7KnI45zMWvvqLTJIN_9bJ5l4xFTjsxphCJIBXXae0HcKj1j7gKvGpLLsno-0M0KF_hbz-KoTJh5fFhqe_xhskvlZ_5JQ/s400/House_layermenu_houseonly.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266802974437193234" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">The Background "eye" icon is clicked to OFF (red circle) to show only the house layer</span></span><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">It is important to understand that each of these layers are very much "independent" images.</span> They can, and should be, considered to be two separate pictures. Any layer can be individually selected and any Photoshop tool or function applied.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1KfbZVMaLvmeLnsw8WueALZW31XNLQ8oIkIRAItXzwDFdZ6uxuHEa5zz9Q9ac6JbHEGEIwTKNeHiI65a29Xj-avT763dMVXbnC_AvU0xpbks8jscWvzO9NwI69C6J9nQrnLrLeRkYB-U/s1600-h/Home+blueStHelens.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1KfbZVMaLvmeLnsw8WueALZW31XNLQ8oIkIRAItXzwDFdZ6uxuHEa5zz9Q9ac6JbHEGEIwTKNeHiI65a29Xj-avT763dMVXbnC_AvU0xpbks8jscWvzO9NwI69C6J9nQrnLrLeRkYB-U/s400/Home+blueStHelens.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266806174313887362" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Mountain layer selected and Blue added</span></span><br /></div><br />In the picture above, I selected the mountain layer (background) and used the color controls to exaggerate the blue and demonstrate that each layer can be treated as separate images. This feature allows you to apply any Photoshop function to any image layer in your picture.<br /><br />So with the image now complete, I only needed to add a caption (shown below), print out several copies of the picture and mail it to my nervous relatives. Needless to say, I received several phone calls from my shocked friends and family.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxiEUgLGqEO-vE0VC_Qs8wMF1GLWQTrbwW0k5r53JQ-B_QI1jKLld5NQD6IgYPzfUOv-zD5U1UqsKlVMfmYt0RUo58_5tAwt1583bL_pv6J89UOszlHCxuptAuzzNw5FBP5t8KXbSeIHo/s1600-h/Home+Helens.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxiEUgLGqEO-vE0VC_Qs8wMF1GLWQTrbwW0k5r53JQ-B_QI1jKLld5NQD6IgYPzfUOv-zD5U1UqsKlVMfmYt0RUo58_5tAwt1583bL_pv6J89UOszlHCxuptAuzzNw5FBP5t8KXbSeIHo/s400/Home+Helens.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266804307694810690" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(0, 153, 0); font-weight: bold;">"Our Realtor said we would be safe."</span></span><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><br />This completes the initial "layers" primer.</span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span></span></span></span></span><span><span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span><span>The project in this example required only two layers. The number of layers is, in reality, only limited by the memory inside your computer. In some editing projects, I have created 50+ layers to produce the final image and effect required by the assignment.</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"> Be aware that adding and saving layers will produce larger image files. </span></span></span></span></span><span><span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span><span> Photoshop offers several different types of, and uses for, layers. As a result, future iDarkroom posts will have much more to say about layers.</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"> You'll find that "layers" and the endless creative possibilities this feature delivers will become one of your most appreciated iDarkroom tools.<br /><br /></span></span></span></span></span></div></div></div></div>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-62523059400551316172008-11-03T09:09:00.000-08:002009-01-08T10:16:29.311-08:00Part 16 - Photoshop, Lightroom or ApertureThe last two posts covered the topic of organizing digital image files. The capabilities and search flexibility of programs like <a href="http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshoplightroom/?sdid=DJUEH">Adobe's Lightroom</a> and <a href="http://www.apple.com/aperture/">Apple's Aperture</a> have brought a new level of image organization and retrieval to the individual photographer that was previously the exclusive territory of sophisticated corporate image storage systems.<br /><br />What's currently muddying the waters are the enhanced editing features that these organizing programs are bringing to the market. The question now being asked is: <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">"Do I need a dedicated photo editing program, like Photoshop, or are the editing features now included in Lightroom and Aperture enough for my needs?"</span><br /><br />This post will lay the basic groundwork towards making that distinction apparent, and ultimately help in making your "buy - no buy" decision. The best place to start is to understand the editing features these new programs offer. I will use Adobe's Lightroom for my examples, but similar features and tools can be found in Apple's Aperture. <span style="font-style: italic;"> (These editing tools will be briefly described in this post. How and when to use each of these editing tools will not be covered in this primer.)</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4bOjCjBchDaFkw7OzK_MVrgYmD6yvJJQwY6SJ3fSwEhuKLJ5vTPJav1FYQNKJQSl5Vlpx_S1AjJXgjI4YYtTdZW7S2lrbmPy3RHMRYOQ3hamxU1YGHeel3BBtlIDLCGThItMeqExESxM/s1600-h/alaska_library_LR.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 243px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4bOjCjBchDaFkw7OzK_MVrgYmD6yvJJQwY6SJ3fSwEhuKLJ5vTPJav1FYQNKJQSl5Vlpx_S1AjJXgjI4YYtTdZW7S2lrbmPy3RHMRYOQ3hamxU1YGHeel3BBtlIDLCGThItMeqExESxM/s400/alaska_library_LR.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264489280653936578" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Main Lightroom Workspace</span></span><br /></div><br />Shown above is Lightroom's primary workspace. The various modes of Lightroom are located at the top of the screen as Library, Develop, Slideshow, Print and Web. The previous two discussions took place in Library Mode (yellow box). This mode contains the organizational features of this program including keywording, metadata, image ranking, film strip, preview area and the image search function.<br /><br />But even in this <span style="font-style: italic;">Library Mode</span> some limited image status and editing operations are available. So, as an image is selected (click on image in central preview area or on an image in the film strip at bottom), an image histogram is displayed (shown in yellow) and several coarse editing functions become active (shown in green box). The histogram in Lightroom displays the levels for all the primary colors (red, green and blue) as well as the secondary colors (cyan, magenta and yellow) for a more detailed look at the digital make up of the selected image.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRPX3rZd3-bzgFHhaWiTAf9jGCWLbNUwWGlmbE9yDHCMdnziPp5RadhYw8C_j35tgSKWVyzPI1rNUgqOBhwLKvi6ojtuNEc7UBiu4Y6lGCBlO4VPVDuDEuDB6-piXG-6THIDP5_Mfe8k/s1600-h/LR_Quick_Dev.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 394px; height: 372px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRPX3rZd3-bzgFHhaWiTAf9jGCWLbNUwWGlmbE9yDHCMdnziPp5RadhYw8C_j35tgSKWVyzPI1rNUgqOBhwLKvi6ojtuNEc7UBiu4Y6lGCBlO4VPVDuDEuDB6-piXG-6THIDP5_Mfe8k/s400/LR_Quick_Dev.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264494770670418146" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0); font-style: italic;">Quick Develop Function in Library Mode</span></span><br /></div><br />Here are the controls available for coarse image corrections in <span style="font-style: italic;">Library Mode</span>. These controls are not nearly as elaborate as their sister function in the <span style="font-style: italic;">Develop Mode</span>, but they do provide a quick way of making initial adjustments to individual or groups of selected images. For example, if a particular group of your images have a slight green cast, all of the images can be selected at once and their white balances adjusted to add more magenta (magenta is the opposite of green) and reduce the green cast. In the same way, a group of images that are too dark can be lightened as a group using the coarse exposure control.<br /><br />To make more critical corrections, Lightroom users select the <span style="font-style: italic;">Develop Mode</span> in the top bar of the main workspace.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVJiiwvSSq1-1jRGFM1GM-YhLSQDz5ovibWkDB0JWagARSv1RILPToD8OSTjyloSsFfZbprNhWuJo5ppC51HompFGJHQj97DnBc-nDCuR9Wa6zUitnvz5Hkh2jolMVOcRvEWCXd8QpW3M/s1600-h/LR_DevMode_Full.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 237px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVJiiwvSSq1-1jRGFM1GM-YhLSQDz5ovibWkDB0JWagARSv1RILPToD8OSTjyloSsFfZbprNhWuJo5ppC51HompFGJHQj97DnBc-nDCuR9Wa6zUitnvz5Hkh2jolMVOcRvEWCXd8QpW3M/s400/LR_DevMode_Full.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264502693526136482" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Lightroom's Develop Mode Workspace</span></span><br /></div><br />Although the above picture is small, it does help orientate you to the <span style="font-style: italic;">Develop Mode</span> workspace in Adobe's Lightroom. Here a picture was selected in the Library Mode to be adjusted. "Develop" (see green box) was selected from the top bar to reveal this image editing workspace.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSLGfwWfMdbI5YLouYpOku6ivHq-vBaMzFvnpnr1_nOQ2xfhN7Wvy5hmOclN2SD2_9NTPyuzOqOLkpBUTZF2Wy_xBOivdNJv3aVIF9J9-JXgKY8ZEu96NviYZoDilkmpFRn1Ym01dGHoc/s1600-h/LR_DevMode_Hist_Treatment.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 262px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSLGfwWfMdbI5YLouYpOku6ivHq-vBaMzFvnpnr1_nOQ2xfhN7Wvy5hmOclN2SD2_9NTPyuzOqOLkpBUTZF2Wy_xBOivdNJv3aVIF9J9-JXgKY8ZEu96NviYZoDilkmpFRn1Ym01dGHoc/s400/LR_DevMode_Hist_Treatment.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264504297820322370" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Lightroom's Histogram and Treatment Tools in Develop Mode</span></span><br /></div><br />That's better. In this close up view of the right-hand side of the <span style="font-style: italic;">Develop Mode</span> workspace, the first of Lightroom's editing tools can be seen. Again a histogram is always visible and will reflect -- in real time -- any changes you make during image editing. Among the tools available are:<br /><ul><li>White balance control (color temperature and tint)</li><li>Recovery, fill light and blacks</li><li>Brightness and contrast</li><li>Presence (controlling overall clarity, vibrancy and saturation).</li></ul>All of these tools are represented as sliders to allow precise control of the adjustment. Any adjustment made using these tools is immediately reflected in the large preview image in the center of the screen.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRoP78fZGtI5Y4-Wvaip2WmVhAlS08OoDEBCNbK5uzGG1SQa3LsMsHHcqDGpb1hXckz01YGT26Nl6Zj42oNFu4dl_v6GYOJ6nZUdYAHWXwelSP8edWCtlB7abe2aUSKMo0ZFFrES0J518/s1600-h/LR_DevMode_Tone_HSL.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 236px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRoP78fZGtI5Y4-Wvaip2WmVhAlS08OoDEBCNbK5uzGG1SQa3LsMsHHcqDGpb1hXckz01YGT26Nl6Zj42oNFu4dl_v6GYOJ6nZUdYAHWXwelSP8edWCtlB7abe2aUSKMo0ZFFrES0J518/s400/LR_DevMode_Tone_HSL.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264507493005457650" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Tone Curve, Hue, Saturation, Luminance, Color and Grayscale control panels</span></span><br /></div><br />The editing tool bar on the right of the screen has its own vertical slider to provide access to more editing options. Here the Tone Curve is shown as well as the slider controls for Hue, Saturation, Luminance, Color and Grayscale. Again each slider control allows for very precise control and any adjustments are previewed immediately on the large center-screen image. A helpful feature is available on several controls that makes visual adjustment much easier. In the above example, Saturation is shown to be active. Notice the small circle to the left-hand side of the word Saturation. Clicking on this button converts your pointer/cursor to an on-screen saturation tool.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1zWgXDNIk8nokDOVanrvlfmODX6B2HqRMiIe-3ZsSk_eK0tkKIaq8RRqU5AG9RHWTQ8XWC4x-CQKJZvkGYA7Zom6YWase_2ymSfgX8FoagvRQkCUOyU2-u1GdlHhyxx4lmc50JZNLVs0/s1600-h/LR_DevMode_Cursor_Saturate.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 305px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1zWgXDNIk8nokDOVanrvlfmODX6B2HqRMiIe-3ZsSk_eK0tkKIaq8RRqU5AG9RHWTQ8XWC4x-CQKJZvkGYA7Zom6YWase_2ymSfgX8FoagvRQkCUOyU2-u1GdlHhyxx4lmc50JZNLVs0/s400/LR_DevMode_Cursor_Saturate.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264511528487713986" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Cursor Saturation Tool Example</span></span><br /></div><br />Here's the cursor saturation tool (within the green circle) as it appears on the large preview image. I can now be very specific about the color that I'm adjusting. In this case, the cursor is located on top of a yellow portion of the sunset. With a combination of click/hold, I can drag the cursor up or down to increase or decrease the saturation of the yellow in the entire picture. While performing this operation, the sliders in the Saturation portion of the tool bar will move to reflect precisely the change being made. Pretty cool. This feature is available with several of Lightroom's image editing tools.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNMAIxhpE71PWGw-dKVik6RR9SwEvKIK2gMK363X2mrht93QVMGiGYShx1_721cqdJmPZXrld4fXoregsZXG2KuO6tX31Ja9ERvtxHpH1QZjvCXAWKq488vMCuL1cJaIrD73mzdDG19tI/s1600-h/LR_DevMode_Detail_Lens.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 326px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNMAIxhpE71PWGw-dKVik6RR9SwEvKIK2gMK363X2mrht93QVMGiGYShx1_721cqdJmPZXrld4fXoregsZXG2KuO6tX31Ja9ERvtxHpH1QZjvCXAWKq488vMCuL1cJaIrD73mzdDG19tI/s400/LR_DevMode_Detail_Lens.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264514154671160466" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Detail and Lens Correction Options</span></span><br /></div><br />The final two editing controls in the right hand options bar are "Detail" (for precisely controlling image sharpness) and "Lens Correction" (to adjust for or simulate imperfections common to lenses). The sharpening functions of Lightroom are very precise and flexible. See the <a href="http://hubsidarkroom.blogspot.com/2008/09/part-13-sharpening-less-is-better.html">Sharpening</a> post in Part 13 of this iDarkroom primer for more information.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxLMtClEwb3COgUxwcsWyr_ir0hyXNlB6GmHAU4xwjzlWgrMRVIiBQoKbLQe8OSP84qpD17t-chT52FQqlgPDZxyZSG7HsjtMy4kQ5l37-3gB2DlsJD8hqRSgflf-Zw4X_1Wd4NoLNN2s/s1600-h/LR_DevMode_Bottom_controls.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 38px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxLMtClEwb3COgUxwcsWyr_ir0hyXNlB6GmHAU4xwjzlWgrMRVIiBQoKbLQe8OSP84qpD17t-chT52FQqlgPDZxyZSG7HsjtMy4kQ5l37-3gB2DlsJD8hqRSgflf-Zw4X_1Wd4NoLNN2s/s400/LR_DevMode_Bottom_controls.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264516158715296130" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Cropping, Red Eye and Straightening Controls</span></span><br /></div><br />Immediately below the large central preview image are the controls for setting the preview image (i.e. full screen, side-by-side before and after view, etc.). In addition, a Red Eye function is available as well as all cropping and straightening functions. Cropping and straightening are very intuitive within Lightroom and performed in real time with guidelines on the large preview image.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilHZ112SGRgCy9b8qtN-VRABFDILDeYfTLvrTKjaOVBRuA6yrULow8qinQ-trFs99GrZfCCwJx88dFIfXxFogzAf5_gS3gB786vltGfNOI8hH2mcorlZ7WpY3bearLbimCWNzY3Uv3RsE/s1600-h/LR_Preset_controls.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 261px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilHZ112SGRgCy9b8qtN-VRABFDILDeYfTLvrTKjaOVBRuA6yrULow8qinQ-trFs99GrZfCCwJx88dFIfXxFogzAf5_gS3gB786vltGfNOI8hH2mcorlZ7WpY3bearLbimCWNzY3Uv3RsE/s400/LR_Preset_controls.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264519491287124402" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Lightroom's Pallet of Preset Effects<br /></span></span><div style="text-align: left;"><br />The final feature to be mentioned in this primer are Presets. Adobe has included a selection of predefined effects that can be applied to any image (shown above). The presets in Develop Mode are listed on the left-hand menu next to the large central preview image. As the user passes the cursor over each optional preset a small preview image is displayed (red box above) to provide visual feedback on the effect each preset will have on the selected image. In the example above, the preset labeled "General - Grayscale" is selected and all of the Lightroom corrections required to convert the selected image to a grayscale (B&W) image are applied. The result is immediately shown in the center-screen image.<br /><br />Lightroom as well as Apple's Aperture - not covered here - also have significant additional features that make them a nearly universal imaging product:<br /><ul><li>Slideshow production including music and multiple export options<br /></li><li>Web gallery production including a broad selection of gallery styles<br /></li><li>Extensive Printing Options offering unique printing formats for numerous purposes including contact sheets and fine art layouts.</li></ul>The distinctive feature unique to Lightroom and Aperture is contained in how all the corrections made during editing are <span style="font-weight: bold;">applied</span> to your original digital file.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">They aren't!</span><br /><br />In photo-speak, all of the actions (regardless of how dramatic or extensive) that you make during image editing are NOT applied directly to the original image. This is called <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">non-destructive editing</span>. Although you see the changes being made on-screen -- before your very eyes -- all corrections made are held by these programs as a set of instructions that are applied when the image is subsequently viewed, edited, exported as a new image file, viewed as a slide show, or printed. The original file is <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">NEVER</span> altered. The corrections are contained in a small text file that becomes permanently associated with each image file in your collection. (Consider this information as "image editing" metadata.)<br /><br />Unlike the standard procedure of saving an original file, making corrections and then saving the new edited image under a new file name to preserve the original, Lightroom and Aperture save all that hard drive space and file organization chaos by maintaining a very small text file that allows these programs to apply the corrections within the program each time the image is accessed.<br /><br />Then which type of program should a photographer choose -- a dedicated image editing program like Photoshop or an all-in-one software package like Lightroom or Aperture? Much of the answer is determined by the photographer and the images he/she wants (or is required) to produce. Although it's highly likely that a professional photographer's computer will have both types of programs, it is also becoming more and more frequent for these photographers to do the majority of their work in Lightroom or Aperture.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Why is this?</span><br /><br />Most working professionals -- especially commercial and studio photographers as well as photojournalists -- have become extremely proficient at capturing a technically and compositionally accurate image in the environments they typically encounter. Their need for extensive image editing is minimal. However, their need for organizing and editing speed as well as the ability to meet tight deadlines is extremely high. So a typical workflow (under "normal" conditions) for these pros might be something like:<br /><ul><li>Download all images from camera's storage card and generic metadata into Lightroom or Aperture</li><li>Review all images and determine images to be used for the assignments (selects)</li><li>Apply image-specific metadata to selected images</li><li>Perform any corrections that can be applied to all images</li><li>Perform any corrections necessary to specific images</li><li>Export images in required format (with Lightroom corrections applied)</li><li>Transmit images to their editor or client.</li></ul>Remember this is only an example. Each photographer has his/her own personal workflow. But they will generally include similar steps. For these pros or any skilful photographer, Lightroom or Aperture is capable of performing all the steps in their workflow. So, many photographers have drifted to using Lightroom or Aperture the majority of the time.<br /><br />However, other photographers in the industry or in the non-professional ranks -- including fine art photographers, architectural photographers, photographers shooting for illustrations or advertising, etc. -- have a critical need of performing fine adjustments throughout the entire image. As a result, stand-alone imaging programs like Photoshop are a necessity in their work.<br /><br />The strength of dedicated image editing programs like Photoshop is found in the almost limitless image control they provide to their users. Unlike Lightroom or Aperture where the corrections made are almost always to the entire image, Photoshop-like programs allow control over the individual components of a digital image -- down to the individual pixel level. Layers can be applied. Actions can be utilized. Cloning can be achieved. Delicate masking can be accomplished. HDR and panoramas can be accommodated. Paths can be constructed. Text can be introduced. These are some of the options not currently available in Lightroom or Aperture that are considered essentials to the work of many photographers.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">In the end, the photographer must choose based on his/her image editing requirements. Because of the different strengths of each type of program, both are likely to be found in a photographer's iDarkroom.</span><br /><br />It will certainly be interesting to watch the evolution of Lightroom and Aperture as Adobe and Apple continue to add more and more dedicated image editing program features. Who knows, we may be heading towards an all-in-one software solution.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Which would I recommend? </span><br /><br />That's tough. But if I were just starting out -- and understanding the importance I place on keeping digital images organized and accessible -- I would probably buy either Lightroom or Aperture first. Putting organization considerations aside, the editing features of Lightroom and Aperture are extensive and certainly powerful enough for newcomers.<br /><br />I would learn the ins and outs of these programs including all the image editing tools and functions. Then when I had conquered the tools and as my finances allowed, I would purchase a dedicated image editing program like Photoshop to cover the full range of my editing needs. Virtually everything I learned while using Lightroom or Aperture would transfer to shorten the learning time associated with most dedicated image editing programs.<br /><br /></div></div>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-11543810564738725392008-10-09T18:59:00.000-07:002009-01-06T10:15:33.457-08:00Part 15b -- Organizing, Storing and Retrieving Image Files<span style="font-weight: bold;">This article is a continuation of </span><a style="font-weight: bold;" href="http://hubsidarkroom.blogspot.com/2008/10/part-15-organizing-and-storing-photo.html">Part 15 - Organizing, Storing and Retrieving Image Files</a><span style="font-weight: bold;">.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">The last post explained how to import images from your camera or stored on your computer's hard drive into image management or organizing software -- in this case, </span><a style="font-style: italic;" href="http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshoplightroom/">Adobe's Lightroom</a><span style="font-style: italic;">. Once the images have been imported, the next step is to provide the information that these programs require to organize the individual images and make their later retrieval a simple matter -- regardless of how many images you have in your entire collection.</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuVGJm4Hp_gysW2n38iufaGfxa-t6KwKHJUo3KN2HvpMXJrRMYGf2qKvX4JeisKRtk-1E918fV1Vlw2kop55Y-jdMbVGbv7xxuP89hHQa9eOcPo4UcKVK-EFSxIaCOLHAhmiVbvjlUtK0/s1600-h/Entire_LR_Library_window_final.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuVGJm4Hp_gysW2n38iufaGfxa-t6KwKHJUo3KN2HvpMXJrRMYGf2qKvX4JeisKRtk-1E918fV1Vlw2kop55Y-jdMbVGbv7xxuP89hHQa9eOcPo4UcKVK-EFSxIaCOLHAhmiVbvjlUtK0/s400/Entire_LR_Library_window_final.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255340925642520978" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Adobe Lightroom's Workspace</span></span><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Seeing the entire Lightroom workspace is difficult using images that fit within the blog template. So sections of the workspace will be enlarged in each segment of this post.</span><br /></div><br />The picture above shows the entire Lightroom workspace. I've attached descriptive words (in yellow) to this full workspace view to highlight the areas that are common to most image management software.<br /><ul><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Library Mode:</span> Only the organizing and storage features to this class of software will be discussed in this post. For Lightroom, these functions take place in the Library mode -- shown in white lettering at the top of the screen. Other modes in Lightroom include: Develop, Slideshow, Print and Web. (These modes are topics for future articles.)</li><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Thumb Nail Window:</span> In the center of the workspace is the area reserved for larger thumbnail images of the images in either the folder you've <span style="font-weight: bold;">selected</span> or as a result of an image search you have performed.</li><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Image Folders:</span> The left hand menu bar displays a complete list of the image folders you've created and stored in Lightroom. In this section resides the folder created in the last post.</li><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Scrolling Filmstrip:</span> At the bottom of the workspace is a film strip that can be scrolled to show all the pictures <span style="font-weight: bold;">selected</span>. Users can scroll through their images quickly using this feature. Clicking on any filmstrip image will result in showing a larger thumbnail in the center pane for closer inspection.</li><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Keywords:</span> This is the area that displays current keywords associated with the <span style="font-weight: bold;">selected</span> image. Additional keywords that are specific to this image can be entered in this box.</li><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Metadata:</span> This area is reserved for displaying and modifying the metadata of the <span style="font-weight: bold;">selected</span> image. (<a href="http://hubsidarkroom.blogspot.com/2008/10/part-14-photographic-metadata.html"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Click here</span></a> for the discussion of Metadata in Part 14 of this iDarkroom blog.)</li></ul><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAx5n9S0YLQDb7E8NB95QFTcC-gLeWPzg4C36C5cyxhMGfOwOtXb0qhUDjE-IYb0O9_mcCPEYB7RSjzg9Sixfk2nQqdVRkYgMsLl0EfIMSwrfBv0pIaTwUaHk4jZkzlDsiHHz9zP8nBsQ/s1600-h/Library_Director_Folders.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAx5n9S0YLQDb7E8NB95QFTcC-gLeWPzg4C36C5cyxhMGfOwOtXb0qhUDjE-IYb0O9_mcCPEYB7RSjzg9Sixfk2nQqdVRkYgMsLl0EfIMSwrfBv0pIaTwUaHk4jZkzlDsiHHz9zP8nBsQ/s400/Library_Director_Folders.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255349258225783650" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">The "folders" pane (circled in yellow) in Lightroom's workspace</span></span><br /></div><br />It's probably becoming obvious from these descriptions that we are now at the level of organizing each <span style="font-weight: bold;">INDIVIDUAL</span> image. The importing accomplished in the last post provided a basic gross organization of the images. All files were placed in a folder unique to a particular shot or event (shown in "folders" pane above). At the same time, images were provided metadata and keywords that were common to <span style="font-weight: bold;">ALL</span> images in this folder. Now we can describe individual photographs to identify what makes each unique. It all begins with information entered in the right hand column of panes.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAKBtwLburD9zDOmE5Rsl9Wai5dAY3nddzBlHk-iVHgj_PD7CHojP-9a6hT2g7SC-W9kb3uPGWgRNlH9A-mQU3qdpqJF9N5tIKEr7hcwdMd3iZotzuXkIq8q4cPtHk8ri_7szxIIpdDbg/s1600-h/LR_Histogram_LibMode.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAKBtwLburD9zDOmE5Rsl9Wai5dAY3nddzBlHk-iVHgj_PD7CHojP-9a6hT2g7SC-W9kb3uPGWgRNlH9A-mQU3qdpqJF9N5tIKEr7hcwdMd3iZotzuXkIq8q4cPtHk8ri_7szxIIpdDbg/s400/LR_Histogram_LibMode.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255351520071491826" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Lightroom Histogram Pane</span></span><br /><br /></div>The top pane contains a histogram of the image that is currently selected. Although this histogram won't be altered, it does provide a graphic that is several times larger than your camera's version as well as an opportunity to take a closer technical look at the exposure made in the field.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyTQcLevB5lKCL9vBzk70Hq5GvkjsjHoeSNC1Gc81afl0r2hcOXb5TL0n2xeLAWaY3V3PGhWC2anXJA5wFf6RyZuFkmpywqNRS-OSZNILAxjFWv9J239tULGKfbXaUUkP8sHjMDszpjWQ/s1600-h/Keywording.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyTQcLevB5lKCL9vBzk70Hq5GvkjsjHoeSNC1Gc81afl0r2hcOXb5TL0n2xeLAWaY3V3PGhWC2anXJA5wFf6RyZuFkmpywqNRS-OSZNILAxjFWv9J239tULGKfbXaUUkP8sHjMDszpjWQ/s400/Keywording.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255352721482764290" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">The pane for viewing, changing and adding keywords</span></span><br /></div><br />The keyword window below the histogram shows any keywords that are currently associated with the <span style="font-weight: bold;">SELECTED</span> image. These initial keywords were assigned to this image (and all others in the group) by the photographer when the file(s) was originally imported into this folder in Lightroom. Now's the time to enter words that specifically define this image. For example, this folder contained pictures of landscapes, people, scenery, water falls, babbling brook, towering trees, sunrise, etc. taken at the Old Grist Mill in Clark County, Washington in 2008. So every picture in this series shares these keywords. The picture that is currently <span style="font-weight: bold;">SELECTED</span> is of a waterfall in the park. By adding the keyword "waterfall" to the list for this image, it's now different from all the others. This is the first step in locating this image two years from now. Enter keywords that identify/describe this particular image.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy9FlrGUNWKjZ7mb7_H-3W1Zy9wb_Jakq9N8EE8GmtmE7Lgd_CgnjpYy-C1VywNnA4QleX0wfQzKFYBWTnjTswHRr-rOSEG1bVgcXE3KbstoDy1UkV_F58q0ignEMlRa36oVXMTMFWODM/s1600-h/EXIF_Window.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy9FlrGUNWKjZ7mb7_H-3W1Zy9wb_Jakq9N8EE8GmtmE7Lgd_CgnjpYy-C1VywNnA4QleX0wfQzKFYBWTnjTswHRr-rOSEG1bVgcXE3KbstoDy1UkV_F58q0ignEMlRa36oVXMTMFWODM/s400/EXIF_Window.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255362173653324594" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Lightroom's Metadata Pane Showing EXIF Metadata</span></span><br /></div><br />As explained in Part 15a, two forms of metadata are commonly associated and travel with each image -- <span style="font-weight: bold;">EXIF</span> and <span style="font-weight: bold;">IPTC</span>. The picture above shows the EXIF metadata (as selected in the yellow hightlighted pull down menu). This information isn't editable. EXIF data describes exactly how this SPECIFIC picture was taken (i.e., camera name, f/stop, shutter speed, ISO, shooting mode, etc.). Instead of taking notes, the camera records this important reference material automatically and includes it with each picture file. <span style="font-style: italic;">You'll see later that you can even use this information to find particular pictures. For example, if you wanted to locate all pictures that were taken with your Nikon D200, you can do that based on each picture's EXIF metadata.</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgfj8gYMhsivzz-LHOuFy9cZnSGcCI_XCcK2tcNV5T0s5UkvR9tMh92RzRsqDrDxxwiW5tpe0ratZZ3TAnhRB-FF1ndYG4lOkWuoL5MAOg-fP3OH8h-t1_MSW33RmHfdyHYk2Rq04AN9c/s1600-h/IPTC_Metadata_Window.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgfj8gYMhsivzz-LHOuFy9cZnSGcCI_XCcK2tcNV5T0s5UkvR9tMh92RzRsqDrDxxwiW5tpe0ratZZ3TAnhRB-FF1ndYG4lOkWuoL5MAOg-fP3OH8h-t1_MSW33RmHfdyHYk2Rq04AN9c/s400/IPTC_Metadata_Window.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255363445851159186" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">IPTC Metadata Window</span></span><br /></div><br />You might not be able to read all the "fill in the blanks" in this picture, but you can see there's room for lots of information that's specific to this picture. IPTC metadata was originally created with photojournalists in mind. Here all the information about the photographer, the assignment, location, dates, captions, etc. can be entered. You may not need all this information for your photography, but several fields are useful for everyone -- like photographer's name, address, date, etc. <span style="font-weight: bold;">You decide</span> what information is important and use these fields to permanently assign this data to THIS specific image.<br /><br />These are the critical data entry areas and information required to make later retrieval of a specific image a snap.<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">You mean I have to do all this work for every picture I take?</span><br /><br />If you want to maximize the effectiveness of your image organizational software the answer is <span style="font-weight: bold;">YES</span>. But, don't panic. Software manufactures have included shortcuts to speed up the process.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeS3AWog91BnIgG-iJuyCBGh1kuB_4hcb5vxF42zWVrxQrtJHlebN3XAUYELMMISlyoN4XeGDuLcO_rIOEVeTQ-jHeoapCaJo3VKibK2jAL5W8943fX8KUs_ppHe3TfMN_LWKr1n-27D8/s1600-h/Synch_Metadata.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeS3AWog91BnIgG-iJuyCBGh1kuB_4hcb5vxF42zWVrxQrtJHlebN3XAUYELMMISlyoN4XeGDuLcO_rIOEVeTQ-jHeoapCaJo3VKibK2jAL5W8943fX8KUs_ppHe3TfMN_LWKr1n-27D8/s400/Synch_Metadata.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255370461492067026" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Metadata Synchronization Button in Lightroom</span></span><br /></div><br />The "Sync Metadata" button at the bottom of Lightroom's workspace is one of Adobe's methods for making your metadata life easier. By selecting one image that contains all the metadata you've entered and then selecting all others that require the same information and clicking on the "Sync Metadata" button, your metadata is automatically entered into the fields you specify. For example, in the "waterfall" example above: If you had taken 20 pictures of the waterfall, then you only need to enter the data into one of the waterfall images, select the remaining images and let the "Sync Metadata" feature automatically write the information into the other 19 picture files.<br /><br />Every program has shortcuts for entering metadata. Check out data entry shortcuts when you are evaluating different software programs.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Most programs also include a few additional options that make the initial job of organizing, sorting and editing pictures even easier and faster.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">As hard as it is to believe, not every picture is a winner.</span> But instead of trying to determine which pictures to save before importing them, I recommend you import <span style="font-weight: bold;">EVERYTHING</span>. Good and bad. It's actually much easier to make these decisions at the same time you are entering keywords and metadata. Any image can be selected and deleted at any time. So, import everything to save time.<br /><br />Additional options for classifying or editing your newly imported pictures include:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEmP_pKRiAJY24IT0KKUk8qh4OypSBkk6qAiSqQ-E5Z4KwRBU56aumsn-1end9kl2inHyUauGSP5MwTORjGut8TE8W_fNeUiP2hkFztE5S65fdJhRYJj3FqFh5LFpDz8LCRqjFzHe7Qqw/s1600-h/Red_Label_Color.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEmP_pKRiAJY24IT0KKUk8qh4OypSBkk6qAiSqQ-E5Z4KwRBU56aumsn-1end9kl2inHyUauGSP5MwTORjGut8TE8W_fNeUiP2hkFztE5S65fdJhRYJj3FqFh5LFpDz8LCRqjFzHe7Qqw/s400/Red_Label_Color.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255372865743006322" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;">Color Labeling</span></span><br /></div><br />These features are presented in the order suggested by Adobe for Lightroom. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Color labeling</span> can be used to quickly review ALL of your images. You can apply a color coded label to any of the thumbnail pictures to indicate their importance to your project. (Notice the "red image label" applied to the picture above surrounds the thumbnail picture.)<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5H_12PCuRH00LP51CxVrosXmVZlxBcDOTKc7Ugg1hK6CkUgjPZTdq1aAkXqni6uZauSOxnPWK-I7Pl5rHcEWGk6g6whykdNJIgOWZH2xTvchYlY349fcYyTZq1q9Z42VFFj5n64AZh9U/s1600-h/Flag_Picked.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5H_12PCuRH00LP51CxVrosXmVZlxBcDOTKc7Ugg1hK6CkUgjPZTdq1aAkXqni6uZauSOxnPWK-I7Pl5rHcEWGk6g6whykdNJIgOWZH2xTvchYlY349fcYyTZq1q9Z42VFFj5n64AZh9U/s400/Flag_Picked.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255373850899500050" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;">"Pick" Flag Applied in Lightroom</span></span><br /><br /></div>Once you've made your first cut by color labeling important pictures, you can then make final selections by selecting a <span style="font-weight: bold;">"Pick" flag</span>. The flag (upper left corner of thumbnail picture) indicates that this image is your "pick" for final use.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRkJ0bvHe25NgMkdDam19778Qu9Usba6-ZfpZIpvZMtCab95GDW-D3jQEWG-RjCbV-pdNryGzhYC4lR_ejTbLtajfajHwnTTSxMXn77mdCwBuB-foCZ2xJr8ltuBizQktGqG5Ffx4RfAo/s1600-h/Rating_Stars.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRkJ0bvHe25NgMkdDam19778Qu9Usba6-ZfpZIpvZMtCab95GDW-D3jQEWG-RjCbV-pdNryGzhYC4lR_ejTbLtajfajHwnTTSxMXn77mdCwBuB-foCZ2xJr8ltuBizQktGqG5Ffx4RfAo/s400/Rating_Stars.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255374573872814930" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Lightroom's Star Rating System (circled in yellow)</span></span><br /></div><br />At the bottom of each thumbnail image is a series of stars. Choosing "stars" ranks your images from poor to best (5 stars usually indicating best). <span style="font-weight: bold;">It's your call.</span> Rank the image according to your photographic taste. You will also be able to search and sort images based on these star rankings.<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Notes: Additional information available on the thumbnail images includes:</span> <ul style="font-style: italic;"><li>the size of the image file and its sequence number in all the thumbnails being displayed <span style="color: rgb(51, 204, 0);">(shown in green circle)</span></li><li>the file name and the f/stop and shutter speed used for this picture <span style="color: rgb(51, 51, 255);">(shown in blue circle)</span></li><li>information showing if the image has been altered in any way using the program's image editing features <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">(shown in the red circle).</span></li></ul><span style="font-style: italic;">All of this information is customizable. A list of items to display with each thumbnail is available for you to customize these "corner" information displays.</span><br /><br />At this point, you've created a complete database of images that can be quickly searched to find individual or groups of pictures that meet your search criteria.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8_LpoMtcUswEZTixrboOzcc8BXdfZF6JtYMXUNulTAPzM_SWdb4GnT1pC3POu_x9nVaso27ByEI0QxhJypP8NIfVkWhVOgyWJSn-lKnUtNNaQk84Mf01DH18qot3TxQHxVM2kDDtTYho/s1600-h/Find_Text_Menu.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8_LpoMtcUswEZTixrboOzcc8BXdfZF6JtYMXUNulTAPzM_SWdb4GnT1pC3POu_x9nVaso27ByEI0QxhJypP8NIfVkWhVOgyWJSn-lKnUtNNaQk84Mf01DH18qot3TxQHxVM2kDDtTYho/s400/Find_Text_Menu.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255377335009954978" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;">The Lightroom "Find/Text" Menu</span></span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Let's walk through one simple search. In Lightroom in Library mode, the Find function is located on the left hand scrolling menu. For this search, I'll look for an image based on a specific keyword, "<span style="font-weight: bold;">Clark County</span>". From the "text" pull down menu, I select "Keywords". Notice I could have searched for pictures based on many choices -- title, filename, metadata, etc.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbbFcVxN7ozRedPlptrckyKL_olR0DPs6Lm_wAacD-en2wZitzf0Iub4hli3346ykZcBqZUEtAEZjm7-HPwTEErpwYfvy9kcpgNA_nHZwD0VgweJ7DlSXJhMhLrgLRr3RTEKlS4hCuRDI/s1600-h/Find_Rule_Menu.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbbFcVxN7ozRedPlptrckyKL_olR0DPs6Lm_wAacD-en2wZitzf0Iub4hli3346ykZcBqZUEtAEZjm7-HPwTEErpwYfvy9kcpgNA_nHZwD0VgweJ7DlSXJhMhLrgLRr3RTEKlS4hCuRDI/s400/Find_Rule_Menu.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255378666027291842" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">The "Find/Text/Rule" pull down menu</span></span><br /></div><br />Next I tell Lightroom to search for keywords that match all the keywords I entered from the "Rule" pull down menu. Then I type in "Clark County" in the text field below the "rule" line.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyOohXSkNP2urGlvPUrcZQKKwhDgeibSuYUGvNumEco_rlTYoJcCXnsdeHqnbnCi7Ggv4B19_j_nFU1OBw4ZqmYpechFKHnEKZez3PcEo3ZcWH8CrQrfSMan6Ne-Wdyf6bkNmDKq32t_w/s1600-h/Find_Results.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyOohXSkNP2urGlvPUrcZQKKwhDgeibSuYUGvNumEco_rlTYoJcCXnsdeHqnbnCi7Ggv4B19_j_nFU1OBw4ZqmYpechFKHnEKZez3PcEo3ZcWH8CrQrfSMan6Ne-Wdyf6bkNmDKq32t_w/s400/Find_Results.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255379430249109618" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Completed "Find" with results of the search</span></span><br /></div><br />The results of the search appear almost immediately (this search took less than one second). All of the images found that match the keywords I entered are displayed in the thumbnail window and in the filmstrip at the bottom of the workspace. The details of the search are shown in the yellow circled area. I performed this search on my Grist Mill folder and 65 images matched my request. (I could have searched on multiple folders or the entire picture collection as well.)<br /><br />The searching features of these programs are extensive and fast -- making it virtually impossible to lose a file that has been properly identified when brought into the program.<br /><br />For most photographers, these sophisticated image organization programs are worth their weight in gold. Finding a single image among thousands has been a photographer's nightmare since George Eastman was a kid. Today, we can attach image-specific information and permanently include it with the picture. And then leave the grunt work of finding the files to our computers. It's not a miracle, but it is a godsend.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Is this just for professionals?</span> Well, imagine your daughter is getting married and you're in charge of creating a scrapbook of images from delivery room to college graduation as a wedding keepsake. If you had been entering your family pictures into an image management program for all those years, just typing in your daughter's name as a keyword would display her entire photographic history. Pretty cool.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">The amount of information you add to your images and the ways you rank your files are totally within your control. However, whatever choices you make, be consistent -- forever. By standardizing your importing and organizing process you have defined your own image management "workflow".</span><br /><br />Finally, don't forget that the Lightroom process I have described is only ONE software solution on the market. Check out others -- like <a href="http://www.apple.com/aperture/">Apple's Aperture</a> -- to determine which is most comfortable and usable in your iDarkroom.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">But wait! There's more!</span> Although the organization that these programs bring to the chaos of managing thousands of individual images is well worth the price, there's more to most of these programs. Future iDarkroom articles will discuss why many professional photographers are using these programs to perform the majority of their digital image editing and enhancement as well.<br /><br />As always, if you have questions or comments, please drop me a line.<br /></div></div>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-88846205761626341752008-10-07T00:05:00.000-07:002009-01-05T14:49:34.104-08:00Part 15a - Organizing, Storing and Retrieving Photo Image Files<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEsAy-X86fen9rj6SVwjsXljUwOv-hkN1mHxMBBFEqZnjzYzvePX7XKik4r02vcz8CVFXRe-_0idPS4DUIoNF5g_SISL0OczzBv12OtfmY9vS-Jmy2v7QZZtx15fx9ULgB9KAbc9oU9YM/s1600-h/Antique_film-1008.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEsAy-X86fen9rj6SVwjsXljUwOv-hkN1mHxMBBFEqZnjzYzvePX7XKik4r02vcz8CVFXRe-_0idPS4DUIoNF5g_SISL0OczzBv12OtfmY9vS-Jmy2v7QZZtx15fx9ULgB9KAbc9oU9YM/s400/Antique_film-1008.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5253045275619956034" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);font-size:85%;" >It's called "Film"</span><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div></div>Back in the "olden days" (pre-2002) when I was the Director of the Time-Life Photo Lab and before the company's conversion to digital photography, we would process hundreds of rolls of film each day for the organization's 135 magazines. It wasn't unusual for <span style="font-style: italic;">Sports Illustrated</span> to shoot 600 to 800 rolls of 36 exposure film at major sporting events like the Super Bowl. This shooting pace using multiple photographers resulted in 21,000 to 28,000 images that had to be down-selected, edited and eventually stored. It was a huge, deadline-driven workload and responsibility for each magazine's photo editor and staff.<br /><br />It would seem the organizational and storage challenges couldn't get more complex. Then digital cameras and the advantages of digital editing entered the scene.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMKRFuRhxeSfL8q5zXgEasZYejG5o55iRUh-74sQ5cDD22MF3vVzuba2anGh9_RQU-sOxlCSV4WsT3_Awi-QwE8cSs3jvMCirgOGIzKpnd8oTNM2BpUKK-XWczOK4d7gMjWIjmmhXo4z8/s1600-h/CF-8533.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMKRFuRhxeSfL8q5zXgEasZYejG5o55iRUh-74sQ5cDD22MF3vVzuba2anGh9_RQU-sOxlCSV4WsT3_Awi-QwE8cSs3jvMCirgOGIzKpnd8oTNM2BpUKK-XWczOK4d7gMjWIjmmhXo4z8/s400/CF-8533.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5253048138286752706" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;">The new "film"</span></span><br /></div><br />There is little argument among most photojournalists that digital photography has given them more flexibility and options. At the same time, the old 36 pictures per roll of film limitation has "bitten the dust". With camera storage cards of 8, 16, and 32 gigabytes available at reasonable costs and the ability to use and re-use these devices for years, the number of images that can be taken at any event has increased dramatically. <span style="font-style: italic;">(That's about 200 RAW files on each 4 GB card or the equivalent of more than 5 rolls of traditional film.)</span> The result is "digital film" that is <span style="font-weight: bold;">nearly free</span> but even <span style="font-weight: bold;">more images</span> to organize, store and retrieve.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Regardless of your photographic status -- beginner to pro -- the challenge is the same. What do I do with all these image files?</span><br /><br />It didn't take long for manufacturers of imaging software like Adobe and Apple to recognize the problem (along with considerable input from professional photographers) and the sales potential for a software solution. Today, there are many options for bringing order to this chaotic situation. Every solution has it own strengths and weaknesses.<br /><br />I will use Adobe's <a href="http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshoplightroom/">Lightroom</a> features to highlight possibilities that the majority of these image file organizing applications bring to our craft. I recommend you read this overview to understand the basic features of image organizing applications and then research available software that is in your budget range and fulfils your organization and storage needs.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhADJJr-w2fjobet7BRZzJ9q28VqgxbzpHx8pVGKr68fUg_br5nVy54xYsonAsJvYNB7kpNRsUzM-tPJXmfQgP_eA7YANQ_gYAujAMHaGRV5opyInV6Tq3p3s-ZUwhtzn3vWJ0J51UT9yY/s1600-h/LR_Full_Screen.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhADJJr-w2fjobet7BRZzJ9q28VqgxbzpHx8pVGKr68fUg_br5nVy54xYsonAsJvYNB7kpNRsUzM-tPJXmfQgP_eA7YANQ_gYAujAMHaGRV5opyInV6Tq3p3s-ZUwhtzn3vWJ0J51UT9yY/s400/LR_Full_Screen.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5253058089927982050" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;">Adobe Lightroom's Desktop</span></span><br /><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(153, 51, 0);font-size:85%;" >Yes, I know it's a small picture. I'll zoom into the important areas as necessary.</span> </div><br />Features common to most image organizing software include:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0);"><li>ability to import images from folders on your hard drive or camera storage card</li><li>ability to place imported images into specific locations that can be cataloged and stored</li><li>ability to add to, alter and edit the metadata attached to each image (see Part 14 of this iDarkroom primer for a discussion of metadata)</li><li>ability to rank your images (from good to bad)</li><li>ability to search and display all images being stored</li><li>minor to major capability to perform image adjustments -- usually a non-destructive process where changes you make are recorded without altering your original image<br /></li><li>ability to print a selected image</li><li>and optionally, the ability to produce an on-screen slide presentation and/or on-line picture gallery.</li></ul>This post will focus on the <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">organizing and file storage features</span> of programs like Lightroom and Apple's <a href="http://www.apple.com/aperture/">Aperture</a>.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguFKyUbcZdWz7-hzQ6wYclgZ7J2L-_Y0dtGOlOOMmtDoJUMEatzt4x5pgUDOEjVV8kSF-UkUdhV1AZx9uHRT6YVXIV5DidFwp8uuXFoHOedDYj003jPKJKlfYKKQ8jzSFr3aKwBTL0L8o/s1600-h/LR_Main_Menu.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguFKyUbcZdWz7-hzQ6wYclgZ7J2L-_Y0dtGOlOOMmtDoJUMEatzt4x5pgUDOEjVV8kSF-UkUdhV1AZx9uHRT6YVXIV5DidFwp8uuXFoHOedDYj003jPKJKlfYKKQ8jzSFr3aKwBTL0L8o/s400/LR_Main_Menu.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5253063899892324018" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;">Lightroom functions are selected from bar menu in upper right hand corner of workspace</span></span><br /></div><br />The image file organizational features of Lightroom are contained in the Library mode as highlighted in the image above.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Importing Images Into the Library</span><br /><br />Typically pictures can be brought into these programs in two ways:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0);"><li>from a location on your computer or network (i.e., from a folder or directory)</li><li>directly from your camera or card reader.</li></ul><span style="font-style: italic;">Using either method in Lightroom produces an import menu as seen below. All of the remaining discussion in this post takes place on this menu.</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3XDum7BtBQaefE70pAoh159fcliK1FLsTpJNxEHFjUDAB1MX9jg1QcLL24QgE4IhZOn7j4O2StVZEw2XT_JDf-n98j1UvJSMxf7zfGGL1aAjcf1ekjtTCvhHmLd3QZnpa_bperwCguVU/s1600-h/LR_import_menu.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3XDum7BtBQaefE70pAoh159fcliK1FLsTpJNxEHFjUDAB1MX9jg1QcLL24QgE4IhZOn7j4O2StVZEw2XT_JDf-n98j1UvJSMxf7zfGGL1aAjcf1ekjtTCvhHmLd3QZnpa_bperwCguVU/s400/LR_import_menu.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5253067154092203394" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;">Lightroom's Image Import Screen</span></span><br /></div><br />The selections you make on this screen set all the import parameters. Like similar programs, Lightroom's import feature contains these basic common elements:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0);"><li>thumbnail images of the pictures to be included and excluded (based on the user's selections) during the import</li><li>navigation menu for selecting the storage location on your hard drive</li><li>a method to allow the user to alter the filenames as they are being imported</li><li>a metadata entry box.</li></ul><span style="font-weight: bold;">Organization Begins Here</span><br /><br />I have created a master folder on my desktop that contains all the images imported to Lightroom. Besides having everything in one place, this arrangement makes it much easier to backup all of my image files by copying this single folder to another hard drive or CD/DVD. Inside this folder are individual folders -- one for every shooting event.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiECnhc8M7Zpn3QHb5m8bIdDQdeKeYZj0yMDStMsN8VoqZRFvyI5NLCtFPO4bpgDL9X0NB_vjwj9O7E7DAIQKMrw5T6JUa7_3fG4ymn11aWTyZbmN5k8ij4vY_Z1rOWrBjnHoDeiy2Ndh8/s1600-h/LR_Choose_Location.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiECnhc8M7Zpn3QHb5m8bIdDQdeKeYZj0yMDStMsN8VoqZRFvyI5NLCtFPO4bpgDL9X0NB_vjwj9O7E7DAIQKMrw5T6JUa7_3fG4ymn11aWTyZbmN5k8ij4vY_Z1rOWrBjnHoDeiy2Ndh8/s400/LR_Choose_Location.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254652648538339746" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Lightroom's window for selecting storage location for imported image files</span></span><br /></div><br />Creating this dedicated folder in the main Lightroom image folder is accomplished from the import menu -- Copy to/choose button. From the menu, I select my "LR_Image_Storage" folder (highlighted in yellow above). Then, selecting the "New Folder" button, I name the folder that will contain the images to be imported (highlighted in green above) -- in this case Sunset Falls.<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Note: Other file import location options are available in Lightroom (i.e. importing and erasing original copies or importing from current location without moving files to a new folder). However, the options described in the last paragraph are most typical and common to similar programs.</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMHK66MtL95CPUtTm9OBEYruGtNMXJN-LBvSZ1pf2-iYNIL-k0OTtw96LU2hh0vkfPXLahEHl081BtgnxljAK4plvtXB8ZD3Z9rRYabP7yibQfgOr-RIFyNl9vZVy3eOk6XAcm4NVKjkY/s1600-h/LR_Filename_Menu.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMHK66MtL95CPUtTm9OBEYruGtNMXJN-LBvSZ1pf2-iYNIL-k0OTtw96LU2hh0vkfPXLahEHl081BtgnxljAK4plvtXB8ZD3Z9rRYabP7yibQfgOr-RIFyNl9vZVy3eOk6XAcm4NVKjkY/s400/LR_Filename_Menu.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254658202972637506" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br /><br />Moving on. Normally, when files are copied, the filenames remain unchanged. In Lightroom and similar programs, the file names can be optionally changed as the files are imported. The "File Naming" options are shown in the drop down menu shown above. This option allows you to choose a naming convention that you prefer for your images. In this example, the "Filename" selection is chosen -- meaning the original file names will <span style="font-weight: bold;">NOT</span> be changed.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfp_pUzYIkujoMuioyXyknxaIAzMvGcvW6Ho5mAGlDmNmCm-2F2VV2w6P91kVziMdrZGxzSWCEKdQ00UpZcg1OemH6cFfhH5NjBYmS468zjcJrzqzcBrSGDeIqXhw9FGzVk3awJWLpwqs/s1600-h/LR_Keyword_Menu.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfp_pUzYIkujoMuioyXyknxaIAzMvGcvW6Ho5mAGlDmNmCm-2F2VV2w6P91kVziMdrZGxzSWCEKdQ00UpZcg1OemH6cFfhH5NjBYmS468zjcJrzqzcBrSGDeIqXhw9FGzVk3awJWLpwqs/s400/LR_Keyword_Menu.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254657385857604050" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">File Naming and Metadata Information Selections</span></span><br /></div><br />After selecting the template for File Naming, the remaining options concern information that will be applied as metadata to <span style="font-weight: bold;">EVERY</span> image imported.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Develop setting:</span> I have never used this option. This drop down menu allows special effects to be added to <span style="font-weight: bold;">EACH</span> image as it is imported (i.e., toning, changing to black and white). Since this setting affects every image imported, I have never had a reason for using this option. Normally, leave this set to "None".<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Metadata:</span> Again, any choice made here is applied to <span style="font-weight: bold;">EVERY</span> image imported. From this menu, any template that has been defined can be selected. In my case, I have set up a predefined template that contains my name and copyright information. This is the information I want applied to every imported image. The template is called "<span style="font-style: italic;">TEH Generic</span>" and is selected above in yellow.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Keywords:</span> This space is provided for entering "keywords" that are descriptive and common to <span style="font-weight: bold;">EVERY</span> image being imported. The words you enter here (separated by a comma) are a major component for organizing and retrieving specific image files later from the thousands of files on your hard drive. Take your time with this step and choose your keywords carefully.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAAbQq-qymLBZZ1tb_2M-hXqxvGa4Fqc-mXVOxS_PUBWUAwm8_68ibKHDTOpcxCRGN8UDKYGfLxCXQ9wfv6bxS5mNt8xQ1Pby-DUdrUQ5693tCgC6i-3mSgjXY6QeCqZsEUsg8g6X3HgY/s1600-h/LR_CheckBoxes_ImportButton.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAAbQq-qymLBZZ1tb_2M-hXqxvGa4Fqc-mXVOxS_PUBWUAwm8_68ibKHDTOpcxCRGN8UDKYGfLxCXQ9wfv6bxS5mNt8xQ1Pby-DUdrUQ5693tCgC6i-3mSgjXY6QeCqZsEUsg8g6X3HgY/s400/LR_CheckBoxes_ImportButton.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254663737739973346" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br />Almost done. Make certain the image you want to import has been selected. In Lightroom, images are selected in the check box above each thumbnail preview (shown in green circles). Click the "Import" button.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">So, what's going on inside the computer?</span><br /><ul style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0);"><li>The image is copied from the camera's data card to the folder "Silver Falls" inside my main folder "LR_Image_Storage"</li><li>The name is changed to the format I selected (in this case I asked for the original file name to be used for the copied file).</li><li>The original image files on the data card are erased -- if I selected that option.<br /></li><li>The metadata I specified and keywords are saved along with each individual image.</li><li>Thumbnail images are created to be used when viewing the pictures in Lightroom.</li></ul>All of this import process can take some time depending on the number of images being imported. Be patient. The program will tell you when the process is complete.<br /><br />We've taken some big steps in organizing our photographic life. This import has laid the foundation for eventually being able to find any image among thousands in record time. So far, everything that's been done has been applied to <span style="font-weight: bold;">EVERY</span> image being imported. <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">The next article in this blog series, Part 15b, will show you how these software programs take this organization process to the individual image level to make image retrieval quick and easy.</span><br /><br />Let me know if you have any questions or comments.Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-17427823733049773902008-10-05T23:35:00.000-07:002008-10-05T23:38:27.859-07:00Hub's Visionary Photographers Blog Launches Today<span style="font-weight: bold;">Today is the official announcement and opening of <a href="http://www.visionaryphotographers.com/">Hub's Visionary Photographers</a> blog.</span><br /><br />The articles presented in this blog are contributed by today's leading photographers, photo educators and photographic authors. (That's right. You won't be subjected to my writings.) Here you will find the wisdom, words and images of those photographic luminaries who are defining the art of photography in a digital world and leading us to new levels of visual expression. Each Visionary has a sincere and burning desire to help the next generation of creative photographers.<br /><br />As with all my photography blogs, it's <span style="font-weight: bold;">FREE</span>. Just lots of great information, insight and inspiration for anyone serious about photography and who wants to learn more about today's photographic heros.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">So, <a href="http://www.visionaryphotographers.com">check it out</a> and sign up for a feed or immediate email notification of new articles.</span>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-19546000235802152512008-10-03T21:47:00.000-07:002009-01-06T10:13:24.869-08:00Part 14 - Photographic MetadataAs a prelude to <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Part 15 - Image Organizing and Storage</span>, this post will present the basics of metadata and the important role it plays in the workflow of today's digital photographer.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Metadata is data that describes other data.</span> In the case of photography, metadata is descriptive information about a digital image. There are two types of metadata associated with digital images.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">EXIF Metadata </span><br /><br />This data consists of the technical camera details permanently associated with each image. This information is collected and recorded along with the image the moment the picture is taken and store on the camera's data card.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFnkaqcgHsQ4-b5EbrO5DbHWKFYYKgOGaQBROTTqLvIu_8Qw9uUCBnX0Ske17BzuMqJIaGNTZXu8MWS8szg0eMpFppiRE98cdnmqjqsl04s9eh3rlY_-tboWtQBiUw-oa7pKaTNOPMNPI/s1600-h/EXIF_Data_Screen.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFnkaqcgHsQ4-b5EbrO5DbHWKFYYKgOGaQBROTTqLvIu_8Qw9uUCBnX0Ske17BzuMqJIaGNTZXu8MWS8szg0eMpFppiRE98cdnmqjqsl04s9eh3rlY_-tboWtQBiUw-oa7pKaTNOPMNPI/s400/EXIF_Data_Screen.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5253201330277524450" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Adobe Lightroom's EXIF Metadata Screen</span></span><br /></div><br />Most imaging programs like Adobe's Lightroom, Bridge and Photoshop, as well as Apple's Aperture, can display the EXIF information included with every digital picture. As shown above, all the technical details, aperture/shutter settings, lens, flash, GPS data, etc. of this particular picture have been captured in the EXIF metadata. This information is invaluable to photographers not only as technical documentation, but also for evaluating and learning from each shooting experience. This is much easier, quicker and more precise than the notebooks we carried with us in the past. EXIF metadata is usually not editable.<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">IPTC Metadata</span><br /><br />IPTC is the acronym for the International Press Telecommunications Council. The name hints at the purpose of this data. As digital photography became more and more prominent in the press, it became necessary to devise a system by which photographers and editors could attach the journalistic specifics to each image. The data is attached to each image file after the pictures are taken -- called post-production.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHyvDTZwJhXujlJkXAzsDrnXOaX5056ARfEIvqw042XtnY0-NeYbUJmjpyjRkvU0jqMHn_g2p4BHLtI_iXxlGmuCaIJYxmdNE2VwjGmohrVbeL4pYM4KpS7r6ZSy4RslWD2gEathGdiPs/s1600-h/ITPC_Data_Screen.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHyvDTZwJhXujlJkXAzsDrnXOaX5056ARfEIvqw042XtnY0-NeYbUJmjpyjRkvU0jqMHn_g2p4BHLtI_iXxlGmuCaIJYxmdNE2VwjGmohrVbeL4pYM4KpS7r6ZSy4RslWD2gEathGdiPs/s400/ITPC_Data_Screen.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5253205905868821458" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Adobe Lightroom's IPTC Metadata Screen</span></span><br /></div><br />The screen above shows the type of information included in IPTC metadata. This information provides the important assignment, photographer, location, caption, copyright and photo description details that are critical to news gathering and photojournalists. Again, this data is created and saved after the photographers' images have been downloaded to their computers. IPTC information is editable.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">So where is all this data stored?</span><br /><br />Currently, metadata can be stored in three locations:<br /><ul><li>It can be incorporated in the photo image file in the case of JPEG and TIFF files.</li><li>It can be included in a file that's attached to the original image file (called a sidecar file) as in the case with RAW image files.</li><li>In the case of IPTC metadata, it can also be stored in the IPTC metadata generating software.</li></ul>Metadata has become more and more important as photographers and software manufacturers seek solutions for managing the huge volume of image files being generated by digital cameras.<br /><br />The next two posts, Parts 15a and 15b, will explore the topics of organizing, storing and retrieving your valuable digital picture files. Most importantly, these next two posts will help you get started with the organization of your images before they become too massive.<br /><br />I hope this metadata discussion has been helpful. If you have questions or comments, let me know.Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-71800389031064319022008-09-25T16:26:00.000-07:002009-01-05T15:15:16.524-08:00Part 13 - Sharpening, Less is BetterFor those just getting started with digital imaging software, the "sharpening" tool is often misunderstood and misused. This post will provide a basic understanding of what sharpening is, and what sharpening isn't. Two of the most important points to remember are:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"><li>sharpening isn't a quick fix for out-of-focus images (out of focus images will always be out of focus)</li><li>all digital images require some degree of sharpening.</li></ul><span style="font-weight: bold;">So what is sharpening?</span><br /><br />Software capable of performing sharpening uses sophisticated algorithms and programming that has matured over the past two decades to selectively increase the contrast along borders of different densities appearing in an image (for example, the edge lines between the veins in the flower petals below). The result is the "illusion" of increased image sharpness -- when in reality it's selective contrast that has been achieved.<br /><br />Sharpening is one subject that is best explained using lots and lots of picture examples. Most technical articles about sharpening generally use professionally made, resolution test charts to show the effects of focus and sharpening. I'm using a real world picture to help beginners recognize sharpening effects as they would appear in their own prints or monitor. The picture below will be used to demonstrate the operation and effects of sharpening.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7bweag2HY3NIaAlGwJYjZhM2DbsvaWOUrxnEEuJdkHj0VgAmF1Y4Uwhm0R_XrSyq37Qw4dGSPrC2C2jLWmMKr4DKp4FYtOp9-qNhCrjt7hPyIStD7YX_R8PRJcH-x2vFmQLZAeGaDHJ8/s1600-h/flowerfull_original.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7bweag2HY3NIaAlGwJYjZhM2DbsvaWOUrxnEEuJdkHj0VgAmF1Y4Uwhm0R_XrSyq37Qw4dGSPrC2C2jLWmMKr4DKp4FYtOp9-qNhCrjt7hPyIStD7YX_R8PRJcH-x2vFmQLZAeGaDHJ8/s400/flowerfull_original.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250115967777805218" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br />This flower picture may well be one of the most carefully set up and taken images I've ever shot. I wanted a picture that was as absolutely "in focus" and sharp as my camera could capture for this sharpening discussion. Here's how the picture was taken:<br /><ul><li>outdoor lighting with a slightly overcast sky<br /></li><li>no wind to cause subject movement</li><li>shutter speed, 1/250th of a second</li><li>aperture, f/11</li><li>ISO setting, 125</li><li>camera mounted on a very stable tripod</li><li>focus point, center of flower</li><li>image saved in RAW format.<br /></li></ul>Once this picture was taken, I took a second picture of the same flower but just slightly out of focus:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7kzjQmBoeV07EWF9_LUgxtmU99hzgXHQynJuL8B7bgCOrjiVachdWvZplMaJ9M80y64nqNks_b___jyPiRCfY8IuJIoJgYCJgODkJODXED6bx9bL2dJyH-JRP_lUVrb7pee6IPSiPe2c/s1600-h/soft_original_full.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7kzjQmBoeV07EWF9_LUgxtmU99hzgXHQynJuL8B7bgCOrjiVachdWvZplMaJ9M80y64nqNks_b___jyPiRCfY8IuJIoJgYCJgODkJODXED6bx9bL2dJyH-JRP_lUVrb7pee6IPSiPe2c/s400/soft_original_full.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250161064143370306" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);font-size:85%;" >The second image is just BARELY out of focus</span><br /></div><br />To see the effects of sharpening, we need to examine these images more closely in detail. The red box on the picture below will be enlarged for both flower images to reveal the impact sharpening has on our photography:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaURUN5Q9tqEI2gGjTNbKxBNEKto_mBVZaV-LtVL1J_bDgILUX6VtFiuivATp6tNcczQQ7-VTccEz87eLiGc3aqx0nU5J1Gj-S2MDs9gx_QYmF05sRRAVp3fxxjH5860son4nnIwF9QKc/s1600-h/flowersharp_redbox.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaURUN5Q9tqEI2gGjTNbKxBNEKto_mBVZaV-LtVL1J_bDgILUX6VtFiuivATp6tNcczQQ7-VTccEz87eLiGc3aqx0nU5J1Gj-S2MDs9gx_QYmF05sRRAVp3fxxjH5860son4nnIwF9QKc/s400/flowersharp_redbox.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250162796882879618" border="0" /></a><br /><br /></div>Both images were stored as RAW files. Below is this portion of each image (in focus and out of focus picture) as it was brought into Photoshop <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">without</span> any sharpening applied in the RAW converter:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVbd6J2sJaStJX1GGi6xpDnHHaxHLE8eAMebcH6n1TnC1J_VckLlAU37wsP5E85VSQeh5epI6s-4Ezz_9VE7vCggP3dn8CjaMBbLdPr1Zsh9X6ZOenb908Elv4G2LwxGr-WNVW8r6Hao/s1600-h/SharOrig_NoRAWSharp.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVbd6J2sJaStJX1GGi6xpDnHHaxHLE8eAMebcH6n1TnC1J_VckLlAU37wsP5E85VSQeh5epI6s-4Ezz_9VE7vCggP3dn8CjaMBbLdPr1Zsh9X6ZOenb908Elv4G2LwxGr-WNVW8r6Hao/s400/SharOrig_NoRAWSharp.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250163831637741010" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">The "in focus" image with NO sharpening applied</span></span><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBjr439eVh8JiWuZeQ6tQ3uV5W6aS7Js8tuDF_HifCJ1vEDUXvDbuYYDCyhp7C9X66qintnREsGw20SZpXjJZMOrqgC2f1QgRhQ2Brw35yxHcE3rZKLBMcq8nvuYXFytm_bztiiUJQNlE/s1600-h/soft_nosharp_closeup.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBjr439eVh8JiWuZeQ6tQ3uV5W6aS7Js8tuDF_HifCJ1vEDUXvDbuYYDCyhp7C9X66qintnREsGw20SZpXjJZMOrqgC2f1QgRhQ2Brw35yxHcE3rZKLBMcq8nvuYXFytm_bztiiUJQNlE/s400/soft_nosharp_closeup.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250164268319536898" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);font-size:85%;" >The "out of focus" image with no sharpening applied</span><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br />With the images enlarged, it's easier to see that the bottom picture is not quite in focus compared to the top photo. Remember these are the images brought directly from the camera's RAW files and opened in Photoshop.<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Because of the limitations of our photo sensors and the way light is collected/recorded at each pixel site, it is necessary to apply a small amount of sharpening to EVERY image.</span> For this example, all sharpening will be done inside Photoshop using the software's <span style="font-weight: bold;">"Unsharp Mask"</span> feature -- located inside the "filter/sharpen" menu. (You're right. "Unsharp" seems counter-intuitive. But it's a term inherited from the world of the printing press.)<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieyqv7NaTCFXxJB1G6MyQfIeXFLoVsyttS9F_rvKpMvCxmG3beeFGm0VI_gejLu2jBCfvpQZHY-ZEqzU4h7XvIRMMfIPYzMSWSQLeIx3VUsYEf7cyKLZekVR_FfLpin7ZE7vSmy7L07rQ/s1600-h/unsharp_mask_window.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieyqv7NaTCFXxJB1G6MyQfIeXFLoVsyttS9F_rvKpMvCxmG3beeFGm0VI_gejLu2jBCfvpQZHY-ZEqzU4h7XvIRMMfIPYzMSWSQLeIx3VUsYEf7cyKLZekVR_FfLpin7ZE7vSmy7L07rQ/s400/unsharp_mask_window.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250167157386174402" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Unsharp Mask control window next to our flower image<br /></span></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><span style="font-size:100%;">It is very easy to over sharpen an image (more on over sharpening later).</span></span> As a starting point, try these settings then click OK. <span style="font-style: italic;"> Notice, if you check the preview box the sharpening effect can be seen on your image before you click OK.</span> In most cases, this is just enough to overcome the shortcomings of the camera's sensor without leaving any unwanted traces (called artifacts) in the images. The result of applying this degree of sharpening to our two flower images is shown below:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisRw7T5mm_WO5BdZWdlIcFnXYLDXxwGwCS3Zjb16mx9NxYR5EahaRQaZaln2WN3f8Gisf2pANaixsDcelFfkdCIHUXPX8wQYLDCq23mBKKcJuUYiXQSQqPnx4SLheR4mvgptjc5LVDEJo/s1600-h/SharpOrig_Raw30Sharpen.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisRw7T5mm_WO5BdZWdlIcFnXYLDXxwGwCS3Zjb16mx9NxYR5EahaRQaZaln2WN3f8Gisf2pANaixsDcelFfkdCIHUXPX8wQYLDCq23mBKKcJuUYiXQSQqPnx4SLheR4mvgptjc5LVDEJo/s400/SharpOrig_Raw30Sharpen.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250169297491336546" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">"In focus" flower with normal sharpening applied</span></span><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaXR6kB622YeHXRXiyG00biKHfxEGnSE5osJU8joBwfgUglR22pSBYKzfn2hmBfZCCylFQGeulPKMnNQRI-byWX8rEtqZGnRwjYZn80i7WS2lCmFUa0bJkcR4GjxQ9rr1dZ-31LVXc3uk/s1600-h/soft_30sharp_closeup.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaXR6kB622YeHXRXiyG00biKHfxEGnSE5osJU8joBwfgUglR22pSBYKzfn2hmBfZCCylFQGeulPKMnNQRI-byWX8rEtqZGnRwjYZn80i7WS2lCmFUa0bJkcR4GjxQ9rr1dZ-31LVXc3uk/s400/soft_30sharp_closeup.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250169524827338418" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">"Out of Focus" flower with normal sharpening applied</span></span><br /></div><br />Both flowers look better. The in-focus flower is very sharp and shows all the detail in the center of the flower and nearby petals. The out-of-focus flower appears to be more in focus, but still is not as sharp as the flower that was shot in focus. This relationship of apparent focus between the two flower images will ALWAYS exist.<br /><br />So what happened to the image when sharpening was applied?<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8T7nXp2pyRBS8eIl4EZKXc0mzxDAKS5LKOaE8epP6UUVySAsW8iN5OfJQRlA7a6DI6BKZrQmvss1nlVoQsQvNX6OVaYG2681V7UjhOseSdFCgZpIGXTdEEGXCwLjUyQLhZhdQhuVLx0A/s1600-h/pixel_nosharp_view.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8T7nXp2pyRBS8eIl4EZKXc0mzxDAKS5LKOaE8epP6UUVySAsW8iN5OfJQRlA7a6DI6BKZrQmvss1nlVoQsQvNX6OVaYG2681V7UjhOseSdFCgZpIGXTdEEGXCwLjUyQLhZhdQhuVLx0A/s400/pixel_nosharp_view.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250171411944258146" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: center; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Unsharpened image enlarged to show individual pixels</span></span><br /></div><br />If we enlarge the picture further, the individual pixels that make up the flower image can be seen. This first picture shows the "in focus" image BEFORE sharpening was applied.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkKfYNVCKK3UWLjZ62IWXzFSaITQnRkYEJjasMq2SbcX_bZzL2bPTtVobUlZ66MvgAw0jJ1rZjHrLvJX5GEE-r3xxIhoQ7f3mL5f7SL2NO4vToYh1K1R-Qegy-BV_PDxJOIoi0Vy0MBIU/s1600-h/pixel_sharpen_view.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkKfYNVCKK3UWLjZ62IWXzFSaITQnRkYEJjasMq2SbcX_bZzL2bPTtVobUlZ66MvgAw0jJ1rZjHrLvJX5GEE-r3xxIhoQ7f3mL5f7SL2NO4vToYh1K1R-Qegy-BV_PDxJOIoi0Vy0MBIU/s400/pixel_sharpen_view.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250171416156050850" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Same image after sharpening and enlarged to show individual pixels</span></span><br /></div><br />Photoshop searched the first image to detect the lines that identify the border between areas of different densities. Once these borders were located, the software increased the contrast level between the two adjacent areas to create the sharpening illusion. If you look closely at each picture you will see areas where one pixel has been lightened while the adjacent pixel has been darkened -- as compared to the unsharpened picture.<br /><br />It would seem that if more sharpening was applied then the out of focus picture could be salvaged and made to appear in focus. There is a point of diminishing returns with sharpening. Apply too much sharpening and image quality suffers as well as becoming visibly noticeable and distracting in the final print.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNiE4z8VxZHe6NoDh7uz3h1f8D5JB6UuwksXao-xj0A-oFQmjTwLFW6FsEWCwm3CsiAeVXuS0W_DMi8wSwdz-NGpC56BM1DZnR9SkNkzTCh2pQFxlcT_8bq4Gri7KNQABfUOyOC-BWXEY/s1600-h/oversharp_full_view.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNiE4z8VxZHe6NoDh7uz3h1f8D5JB6UuwksXao-xj0A-oFQmjTwLFW6FsEWCwm3CsiAeVXuS0W_DMi8wSwdz-NGpC56BM1DZnR9SkNkzTCh2pQFxlcT_8bq4Gri7KNQABfUOyOC-BWXEY/s400/oversharp_full_view.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5250175341414732658" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;">Visible artifacts become distractions when too much sharpening is applied</span></span><br /></div><br />Above is the out of focus picture for the last time. It has been sharpened to the point where it approximates the sharpness of the original "in focus" picture. This much sharpening is too much. Artifacts or imperfections are noticeable along the sharp edges of the elements that make up the picture. <span style="font-style: italic;">(This is a very small picture and at monitor resolution, but as an actual print you would be disappointed.)</span><br /><br />In the end, the sharpest prints start with original camera files that are "in focus". As far as sharpening is concerned, like so many other things, "less is better".<br /><br />If you save your files in JPEG format in your camera, I recommend setting the camera's internal sharpening feature to minimal or off. It's my experience that the sharpening functions in today's imaging software do a better job.<br /><br />If you have questions or comments, please let me know.<br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;"></span></span></div></div></div></div>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-27450903755594872202008-09-21T17:14:00.000-07:002009-01-06T10:12:05.704-08:00Part 12 - From Pixels to PrintWe know what pixels are. We also know that the camera doesn't produce a picture but instead a data file that describes the specific amounts of the primary colors (red, green and blue) for every pixel that comprises the picture.<br /><br />So, if we really don't have a picture, how is the picture displayed on our computer monitor and then as an image from our inkjet printers? Key to understanding these technological miracles is remembering that there are two ways of reproducing the visible spectrum:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><li>By using the three additive colors (also called primary) -- red, green and blue -- in nearly infinite density combinations to replicate all visible colors</li><li>By using the three subtractive colors (also called secondary) -- cyan, magenta, yellow -- in finite density combination to reproduce all visible colors.</li></ul>The iDarkroom uses both methods:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><li>The computer monitor displays images using the Primary Colors -- red, green and blue.</li><li>The inkjet printer produces images using the Secondary Colors -- cyan, magenta and yellow (and adds a black ink to provide contrast and a truer black than can be produced by man made cyan, magenta and yellow inks together).</li></ul><a href="http://hubsidarkroom.blogspot.com/2008/09/part-7-inkjet-printer-color-primer.html">Click here to review my earlier post Color Primer for more details.</a><br /><br />The following graphic borrowed from Wikipedia is the best illustration I have found to help understand monitor vs. printer methods of creating an image as well as the relationship between pixel's per inch (PPI) and dots per inch (DPI):<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL2e3TTau4Q8zM7UsAdUph7f7OKOWv6IO5ZFfxJAXolx1aV6kP-4IdflIVK2RA1LDMV8YEfvf7B7xr0NdSHmWToTUmFmanP_9llGHdISXYb3Qx5SNFeXqjQ9GxnxI82zXPDxzQnxIsVAs/s1600-h/DPI_and_PPI.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL2e3TTau4Q8zM7UsAdUph7f7OKOWv6IO5ZFfxJAXolx1aV6kP-4IdflIVK2RA1LDMV8YEfvf7B7xr0NdSHmWToTUmFmanP_9llGHdISXYb3Qx5SNFeXqjQ9GxnxI82zXPDxzQnxIsVAs/s400/DPI_and_PPI.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248638049171073218" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: center; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Each grid represents a 10 by 10 pixel area of a much larger multi-million pixel image</span></span><br /></div><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">Starting with the monitor</span><br /><br />The data contained in the original image file is saved in terms of red, green and blue per pixel (a value between 0 and 255 for each primary color). As shown above, a typical sRGB computer monitor is capable of displaying all 256 values of red, green and blue at each pixel location. At 256 x 256 x 256, this means each pixel can display all 16.7 million colors that a typical DSLR's image sensor is capable of recording.<br /><br />This display approach is straightforward. The only additional math or adjusting of the monitor that must be done (via the ICC profiles used by your image editing program) is to take into account the color space of the original image file. If you've set your camera, for example, to use the Adobe RGB color space, the computer will adjust the pixel color values to present the correct Adobe RGB colors on the RGB monitor.<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">Moving on to the inkjet printer</span><br /><br />The "original image file" to "inkjet print" relationship is more complex for several reasons:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><li>Inkjet printers use the secondary colors to reproduce the visible color spectrum -- cyan, magenta and yellow. So, RGB values contained in the original file must be converted to secondary colors as well as to the color space of the printer/paper combination.<br /></li><li>Inkjet printers place "dots" of color on paper, but these dots are limited to the color cartridges in your printer. In today's photo inkjet printers, this typically means 8 different colors. For example black, photo black, matte black, cyan, light cyan, magenta, light magenta, and yellow are used by many entry level photo printers.</li><li>Printer resolution is expressed in terms of the number of "dots" it can place within one inch. Dots-Per-Inch (DPI).</li><li>Inkjet "dots" of ink are necessarily much smaller than a pixel. (Explaining why printer DPI numbers are so much larger than the PPI of the image file.) <span style="font-weight: bold;">This is critical since the "dots" of ink can only be one color and one density.</span> In order to provide the illusion of continuous tone, tiny dots of ink are placed in extremely close proximity to each other to provide the subtle shades of color required in a photograph.</li></ul>In fact, the dots placed on paper by an inkjet printer are so small and so close together that our eye cannot distinguish the individual dots and colors without considerable magnification. Our brain visually blends these areas to produce a shade of color. (Much the same way modern military camouflage blends and marries into the surrounding natural colors to become part of the background.) The right hand portion of the illustration above reveals that only secondary ink dots are present and that there are many, many "dots" of secondary color in each pixel area. The higher the DPI, the more dots a printer can produce per inch and the more detailed and continuous the printed image appears.<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Once again, the multiple variables involved in the process of creating a print -- camera, to monitor, to final print -- are apparent. And, once again, it's obvious with all the necessary conversions and adjustments taking place behind the scenes that </span><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">-- <span style="font-weight: bold;">even if we make </span></span><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">NO image adjustment of our own --</span><span style="font-style: italic;"> unless the <span style="font-weight: bold;">entire</span> workflow is calibrated and in control, the odds of any picture being an accurate reflection of the original scene are slim.</span><br /><br />But knowing what's happening throughout the workflow and taking the necessary steps to calibrate your iDarkroom are the first steps to stunning prints.<br /><br />If you have any questions or comments, feel free to pass them along.Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-4639275424337785712008-09-15T11:31:00.000-07:002009-01-07T14:52:28.092-08:00Part 11 - Basic Pixels-Per-Inch Considerations for the PrintmakerI've just returned from taking my daughter to college. On the 300 mile return trip, I spent most of my time writing and re-writing this post in my mind. The subject is PPI's (pixels per inch) role in quality image making. I also monitor dozens of Internet forums to "hear" what is most on the minds of iDarkroom beginners. The forum entries on the subject must be in the millions. Nothing seems to create more debate than PPI. Much of the debate could be eliminated if some parameters were placed on the discussion.<br /><br />So... since this is my blog, I'm making the following assumptions about my readers who are just starting their iDarkroom experience as well as their quality expectations:<br /><ul><li>My readers are taking photographs to 1) produce prints in sizes from 4"x6" to 13"x19" that are viewed at arm's length viewing distances <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">OR</span> 2) to be shared as monitor images (for example, on the Internet, email attachments in digital picture frames, etc.)</li><li>My readers want to know how to make the best possible printed or monitor images their cameras can produce in their iDarkroom printing environment.<br /></li></ul>Believe it or not, if you agree that these assumptions represent your photography goals, we've automatically eliminated pages of unnecessary explanation. In fact, these goals are specific enough that I could end this post right now by making the following recommendations:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><li>Use a pixel-per-inch setting of 240 PPI for all your serious printmaking.<br /></li><li>Do not select a PPI setting that causes your computer to interpolate (guess) to produce missing pixels.</li><li>Use a pixel-per-inch setting of 100 PPI for images targeted for monitor display.</li></ul>These are my professional recommendations and the guidelines I use every day. If that's all you wanted to hear, no need to read further. (Thanks for stopping by.) If you're a more adventurous iDarkroom beginner, read on to understand my rationale.<br /><br />This post will look at the basics of PPI as it relates to printmaking in your iDarkroom. Although I will be using Adobe's Photoshop software in these examples, these image controls and decisions are common to virtually all modern digital imaging software.<br /><br />Let's begin with image definitions for this post:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><li>File size refers to 1) the number of bytes of data in the original file captured on your camera and saved on the data card, or 2) the number of bytes in the final image you save on your computer from your digital imaging software. (They are seldom synonymous.)</li><li>Image size refers to the computer dimensions of the image you see on your monitor (created from the data saved on the camera's data card). This measurement is typically expressed in terms of inches, centimeters, millimeters or pixels/points per inch (PPI).</li><li>PPI is the number of pixels or points per inch that make up the picture (pixel being a single picture element of image information that is displayed on a monitor or print).</li></ul>To put these concepts together, consider the following picture:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5iHtRPJygnZy2zR3OVEhcPmDeorLvVC-8SSjjuahBeNc8lPBxQOEaOhZPkv_n3xufJc6D1QzkY90zQhuTtxd0QuvBLk2feTCXY1vEVg52x791bFZIKt4OZTwMPYkO3-iyt5GDSlh7OBs/s1600-h/Gringo_original.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5iHtRPJygnZy2zR3OVEhcPmDeorLvVC-8SSjjuahBeNc8lPBxQOEaOhZPkv_n3xufJc6D1QzkY90zQhuTtxd0QuvBLk2feTCXY1vEVg52x791bFZIKt4OZTwMPYkO3-iyt5GDSlh7OBs/s320/Gringo_original.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246328822748630706" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: italic;">Hola, Gringo</span></span><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br />This picture was taken with a 10 megapixel Nikon D200 and saved in RAW mode. Checking the original file as stored on my data card:<br /><ul><li style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">The RAW file size is 15.9 megabytes.</li><li style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">The dimensions of the image are 2,592 pixels wide by 3,872 pixels tall.</li><li style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">The initial resolution of the image is 240 pixels per inch (PPI).</li><li style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">The color mode is Adobe RGB (1998).</li><li><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">The bit-depth is 16 bit (more on bit depth in later posts).</span><br /></li></ul>These are the technical specifications of the image as originally shot and stored by my camera. When this file is opened using the RAW converter in Photoshop, the "Image Size" window can be seen below:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBlwEBR01QCE6JMOAjblP8kDBOoEs2_IB2GL-Z5h8JUApI-To3RT51yOkfcwlL_iogCIeRZBiTWpNtdvj0A91VwyT2atwVCAD12AM_aU6MgKtQMBV_hvhP0FKYpDbxRML95ZJ87zY7aEw/s1600-h/Gringo_intial_image+size_PS.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBlwEBR01QCE6JMOAjblP8kDBOoEs2_IB2GL-Z5h8JUApI-To3RT51yOkfcwlL_iogCIeRZBiTWpNtdvj0A91VwyT2atwVCAD12AM_aU6MgKtQMBV_hvhP0FKYpDbxRML95ZJ87zY7aEw/s320/Gringo_intial_image+size_PS.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246332011468642306" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br />These measurements are now the size of the untouched image in Photoshop. If I were to print this picture without any adjustment, the resulting image would be:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><li>10.8 inches wide</li><li>16.133 inches tall</li><li>with a printer resolution of 240 PPI.</li></ul>When I save this file ("as is" with no alterations as an uncompressed .psd or .tif file), the saved file size will be 57.4 megabytes (MB). Notice the file size on my data card was 15.9 MB, but now Photoshop indicates the file size is 57.4MB. Some difference. 50% of this file size increase is due to the fact that my camera is shooting in 16-bit mode -- a topic to be discussed in later posts.<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Note: Subtracting this 50% for those shooting in 8-bit mode yields a 28.7 megabyte file used in the following examples. This file is derived from the data contained in the image file on your storage card and is the result of red, green and blue information gathered by the 9.6 million effective pixels located on the sensor that collected the light information (times 3 bytes of information per pixel -- one byte each for red, green and blue).</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">It's at this point that opinions begin to vary regarding print quality.</span> These opinions range from PPI settings of 150 to 600. From my professional experience with modern inkjet printers (and having worked for a printer manufacturer), I believe a PPI setting of 240 is an optimal printer setting. Visually seeing the differences in quality between a print made at 240, 300 or even 600 PPI requires a microscope. Visual differences become more and more apparent as PPI settings lower that 240 are used. So <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">my</span> printmaking is almost exclusively done at 240 PPI.<br /><br />When I see the image information shown above, I automatically know that the LARGEST print <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">I</span> will make from this file is 10.8" x 16.1". Could I make a print larger than 10.8"x16.1" from this file? Certainly. And I have two methods for making a larger print.<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0); font-weight: bold;">Changing the PPI setting of the image:</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY-CinIlnCCfe2UwAwMx5EJQLTPy-SQXRdmM3Zma7IHMKx_NaY8xZ_pSO8fWAQiJgCJVNa6KNtyJ35L-R5K9gZC-2UBpGteXCEVRYsNIGkKGeYVMx8bZ-GH-M_MOb6fVEhy4izhHgY2CM/s1600-h/Gringo_ImageSize_150ppi.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY-CinIlnCCfe2UwAwMx5EJQLTPy-SQXRdmM3Zma7IHMKx_NaY8xZ_pSO8fWAQiJgCJVNa6KNtyJ35L-R5K9gZC-2UBpGteXCEVRYsNIGkKGeYVMx8bZ-GH-M_MOb6fVEhy4izhHgY2CM/s400/Gringo_ImageSize_150ppi.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248570312073632930" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Changing the PPI to 150 automatically resizes the picture to 17.28" x 25.81"</span></span><br /></div><br />As shown in the above Photoshop "image size" window, changing the PPI from 240 to 150 provides a much larger print size while the file size remains the same. However, there are fewer pixels used per inch (90 to be exact) to reproduce each segment of the picture. As a result the printed image will appear softer (lower resolution) than the original 240 ppi print -- when viewed from the same distance. Whether this softer image is acceptable is completely at the discretion of the photographer.<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0); font-weight: bold;">Changing the image size, but not the PPI:</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizqB2y1D1yFlTT8LpeNQPpbSPvBOXRjYR5DIGyIcjtHj8j5YoZqUxOgqLJuiQmxm7jJi29XYrM3m_CT3cpqYaWA3xCFJENJtbEfnLJmA8Ai7ajfWxmDyhQveH3ekkII71XLTmmBdc9xDg/s1600-h/Gringo_ImageSize_240ppix25in.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizqB2y1D1yFlTT8LpeNQPpbSPvBOXRjYR5DIGyIcjtHj8j5YoZqUxOgqLJuiQmxm7jJi29XYrM3m_CT3cpqYaWA3xCFJENJtbEfnLJmA8Ai7ajfWxmDyhQveH3ekkII71XLTmmBdc9xDg/s400/Gringo_ImageSize_240ppix25in.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248575255982482946" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Here the height of the print has been changed to 25", but the resolution remains at 240 PPI</span></span><br /></div><br />In this example, the linkage between print size and resolution has been broken by asking the computer to "<span style="font-style: italic;">Resample Image</span>" (check box). The new 25" print size was manually entered in the "<span style="font-style: italic;">Height:</span>" box. (Changing the height automatically changes the width proportionally.) The first sign that something unexpected is going to happen is the "new" file size. Making this size change while remaining at 240 PPI has taken the image file size from 28.7 megabytes to a whopping 69 megabytes (see the <span style="font-style: italic;">Pixel Dimension line</span> above).<br /><br />This window begs the question of "Where does the extra 40.3 megabytes of data come from?" <span style="font-weight: bold;">It's a computer guess.</span> A very intelligent guess, but nevertheless a guess. The 40.3 megabytes of new pixel information is determined through a process called <span style="font-weight: bold;">interpolation</span>. Using sophisticated and creative computer algorithms, Photoshop looks at the surrounding "real" pixels and produces pixels to "fill in the blanks" that this enlargement request has created. It's statistically unrealistic to assume that these guesses will be true to the original scene. The print resulting from this file will reveal colors, artifacts and detail (or lack of) not present in the original scene. Again, whether this print is acceptable can only be answered by the photographer.<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Note: I realize this example is extreme (going from 16" original height to 25" interpolated height. It does, however, make the ramifications of interpolation obvious. Since the typical viewing distance (the distance your friends will stand when looking at your final print) is not much different between a print that's 25" and one that's 16", the effects of 40 million bytes of computer "guesses" will be apparent.</span><br /><br />Since <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">I</span> know that something is lost using either method, <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">I</span> remain a purist by sticking with my printer's best resolution (240 PPI) and not allowing interpolation. In this way, I'm assured my print reflects the most technically accurate image my particular camera/printer combination can achieve. <span style="font-weight: bold;">That's my goal.</span><br /><br />Does this limit my final print sizes? Absolutely. However, since most of my prints are 11"x14" or smaller in size, I'm OK with this limitation. If I need a larger print, I have two choices:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><li>accept the quality impact that changing PPI or Image Size produces</li><li>use a camera with higher resolution (more megapixels).</li></ul>I have done both although I prefer the second option.<br /><br />So, if you accept my recommendations (at least while you are starting your iDarkroom journey), here's a small table for determining the minimum number of megapixels required to produce the most popular color print sizes at 240 PPI:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><li>4x6 print = 1.4 megapixels</li><li>5x7 print = 2 megapixels</li><li>8x10 print = 4.6 megapixels</li><li>11x14 print = 8.9 megapixels</li><li>16x20 print = 18.4 megapixels</li></ul>Finally, you can find hundreds of entries in forums around the Internet on this very topic. You've heard <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">my preferences</span>. After taking the time to read various opinions and weighing your options, you will ultimately have to decide the level of image quality that is acceptable in your printmaking.<br /><br />If you have questions or comments, please let me know.<br /><br /></div></div>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-42860999954092922772008-09-10T13:05:00.000-07:002009-01-11T17:08:16.484-08:00Part 10 - Your iDarkroom EnvironmentTraditional film-based darkrooms were built to a set of guidelines that provided a physical environment most conducive to performing critical printmaking. The iDarkroom is no different.<br /><br />As with traditional "wet" darkrooms, our perception of the important elements that make up our images including color, densities, contrast and sharpness are impacted by the very working environment we create when constructing our digital darkroom. This post will discuss how to set up your iDarkoom to minimize external influences that can "trick" your eye and cause disappointing print results.<br /><br />The overriding objective is to create an area for your workstation and print viewing that is both neutral and representative of the conditions in which your prints will be viewed.<br /><br />Starting with the room itself, bright colors are OUT. If you visit a traditional professional lab or a newly constructed iDarkroom at a professional imaging service, you are most likely to see white or gray walls with neutral colored flooring. The idea is to introduce NO color that can influence your eye's perception of an image. The walls in my iDarkroom are painted a light gray and the carpeting is a deep shade of gray.<br /><br />Of course, you'll need light in your iDarkroom. This is a whole other can of worms. Photography is all about light. Working against us is the most amazing photographic device ever conceived -- our eyes. Our eye/mind combination has the exceptional capability to automatically perform color balancing based on the prominent light source. However, in the world of photography, we must be ever mindful of the color of the prevailing light. We often see this color reality on those occasions when a typical household tungsten lamp is turned on in the daytime.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXMKIdd5lxeFv0eyOKPQCeoWbtBiA7N3vhPFmsB5yqc2SFSt-I1mnJLVr7Dx9An1sGjY9NB9mF1_z5sOOSTM0JvZsFLy92XZ56kjkFV5bz_j3vzg0bVRqom2NpjkzKHiYFM-coEaCS3pM/s1600-h/CRW_8514.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXMKIdd5lxeFv0eyOKPQCeoWbtBiA7N3vhPFmsB5yqc2SFSt-I1mnJLVr7Dx9An1sGjY9NB9mF1_z5sOOSTM0JvZsFLy92XZ56kjkFV5bz_j3vzg0bVRqom2NpjkzKHiYFM-coEaCS3pM/s400/CRW_8514.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244499328786852722" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br />Here's one of those times. Our eyes see the daylight through the window and instantaneously synch all colors in relation to this "known" value. As a result, the light from the tungsten lamp that appears to be white at night is revealed to actually contain much more yellow and red than daylight.<br /><br />I'm sure you've been in an indoor situation that was lit primarily with standard fluorescent bulbs. You might have noticed that the resulting pictures had a green cast. While you were at the event, everything appeared normal. But your eyes had corrected for the color shift from daylight while your camera told you the "truth". The light is green. So different light sources have their own color characteristics (make up of light frequencies). These differences are expressed in degrees Kelvin. Here are a few examples:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);"><li>The flame from a candle is measured as 1850 to 1930 degrees Kelvin (very yellow).</li><li>A typical sunset falls into the range of 2,000 to 3,000 degrees Kelvin (still yellow).</li><li>A household tungsten lamp ranges from 2,500 to 2,900 degrees Kelvin (see picture above).</li><li>Direct noon sunlight (5,000 to 5,400 Kelvin).</li><li>Normal daylight-- sun and sky combination (5,500 to 6,500 Kelvin).</li><li>Outdoor shade areas (7,000 to 8,000 Kelvin) - very blue in color.</li></ul>This Kelvin temperature reality greatly impacts your choice of iDarkroom lighting since you will be viewing finished prints under that predominant light.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeZEb9v0vfoLwujpNEESM_cBWMGBIgTJ1E-lXpRoOWundRdHZZU_uX2BBsWBCQzDLl2pQ0AyzUl3vP5445V87rtk-xMZR7cHDE8dLD9gFfBJex71NNhbPUCSR2VKdd9C_f4XhjaJLOAsI/s1600-h/CRW_8517.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeZEb9v0vfoLwujpNEESM_cBWMGBIgTJ1E-lXpRoOWundRdHZZU_uX2BBsWBCQzDLl2pQ0AyzUl3vP5445V87rtk-xMZR7cHDE8dLD9gFfBJex71NNhbPUCSR2VKdd9C_f4XhjaJLOAsI/s400/CRW_8517.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244502454503169138" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br />The picture above illustrates the impact of different "white" light sources when viewing a print. This image of a black and white print was taken in the same location as the first picture above. Our eyes know the light source through the window is daylight and have adjusted accordingly. As a result, the right side of the black and white picture is strongly influenced by the light of the tungsten lamp and has a noticeable yellow/red cast. The left side of the picture is being primarily illuminated by the outside daylight and we perceive this part of the black and white print as true black and white.<br /><br />It's impossible to know all the light sources your prints may be viewed under once they leave your iDarkroom. And you certainly can't afford to make dozens of prints that are color corrected to every possible viewing condition. That's why professionals generally settle on "daylight" as their standard. In the dozens of traditional and digital photographic labs that I have designed and constructed, I have always installed lighting that was balanced to natural daylight. You can too.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfA5I7UqjAqsJTsVqp9U1-HAnpMmlyj-w-Ln-IT04o0v5wtGGuLlVVVqPsYTs2HSnf0XgLwz5IVYQkfvk2E6z8Z_sLfCzZRbD7ZLfa37KPAQypP-dOdmIzL_kqX9prVBb5i2nW2V_FxEU/s1600-h/studio-8503.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfA5I7UqjAqsJTsVqp9U1-HAnpMmlyj-w-Ln-IT04o0v5wtGGuLlVVVqPsYTs2HSnf0XgLwz5IVYQkfvk2E6z8Z_sLfCzZRbD7ZLfa37KPAQypP-dOdmIzL_kqX9prVBb5i2nW2V_FxEU/s400/studio-8503.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244504609936598162" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">My iDarkoom general room lighting is provided by several daylight balanced, 23 watt (equivalent to 100W tungsten) fluorescent bulbs that I purchased at my local Home Depot.</span></span><br /></div><br />A trip to your local hardware or lighting store is all it takes. Today's highly-publicized fluorescent replacement bulbs can be bought in several flavors. One of those versions is daylight. Expressed in terms of Kelvin degrees, these new bulbs can be found that emit light in the 5,000 degree to 6,000 degree range -- that's daylight. Perfect. At the same time, you gain several non-photographic but important advantages:<br /><ul><li style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">the bulbs are relatively inexpensive (about $4.00 for a 100 watt equivalent bulb)</li><li style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">they generate much less heat</li><li style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">they require much less energy to reduce electrical costs</li><li><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">they have a life expectancy greater than their tungsten brothers</span>.<br /></li></ul>Good news all around. My lighting arrangement shields most of the room light from striking my computer monitor screens directly.<br /><br />How about the workstation area? I apply the same neutral rules. Nothing flashy (colorwise). My furniture is gray and black. The computer counter is a light gray color. And my monitor slides under the workstation's upper bookcases to shield the screen from excessive room light.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ZrwhVnCFfcnaFmlR5E2zasiENPhhEKqmuS0KWqQiU0LqIwktEk_o9N-YVPyNxqFDvsyZOGqoRbczL9fVeVdZvsInI1byMrQCdSx4_GL98MTo7x4D3318D0ovG0qu01fg0khiI5oaz5s/s1600-h/workstation.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ZrwhVnCFfcnaFmlR5E2zasiENPhhEKqmuS0KWqQiU0LqIwktEk_o9N-YVPyNxqFDvsyZOGqoRbczL9fVeVdZvsInI1byMrQCdSx4_GL98MTo7x4D3318D0ovG0qu01fg0khiI5oaz5s/s400/workstation.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244508449178020898" border="0" /></a><br /></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">One of my digital workstations. This particular workstation contains my trusty iMac, a second monitor to expand my virtual work area, a </span><a style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;" href="http://www.wacom.com/index.html">Wacom</a><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;"> tablet for critical Photoshop work and -- of course -- my iTunes controller under the monitor on the right. (Imaging and music just seem to go together.)</span></span><br /><br />I continue the quest for perfect neutrality on my computer monitors. You won't find any psychedelic backgrounds on my monitors' desktops. That would only drive me and my eyes crazy. Instead, as soon as I install any monitor, I first change the background color to -- <span style="font-style: italic;">you guessed it</span> --- a solid middle gray.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbbIxy5PNAJr7XbpV1YvhUHP4YAMZMO9qzydCw1lo1ZskbzN_-W0aGSVD3R6N_ftTj7_2txaE7KDhblW0cy0vrDOz2zgHYK__ieWIXV_2N-j4UtbtV450FIN-bsGfEjMiXDoTpyl3-sdE/s1600-h/grayMacscreen.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbbIxy5PNAJr7XbpV1YvhUHP4YAMZMO9qzydCw1lo1ZskbzN_-W0aGSVD3R6N_ftTj7_2txaE7KDhblW0cy0vrDOz2zgHYK__ieWIXV_2N-j4UtbtV450FIN-bsGfEjMiXDoTpyl3-sdE/s400/grayMacscreen.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244512276358279170" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: center; color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;"><span style="font-size:85%;">The perfect digital imaging canvas -- my desktop<br /></span></div><br />Keep the entire iDarkroom as clean as possible. You'll thank me later.<br /><br />The one final area of vital importance is your own health. Our perception of colors, densities, etc. are dramatically altered according to our own physical condition. Colors are typically perceived differently early in the morning versus late at night. If you're tired or ill, perception is again affected.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">So, stay healthy and have fun with your new craft.</span><br /><br />If you have any questions or comments, you know where to find me.Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-26789501080848181762008-09-09T20:21:00.000-07:002009-01-11T00:00:26.584-08:00Part 9 - Photoshop "Print" Walk ThroughThe question I am probably most often asked by those setting up their first iDarkroom is: "Could you walk me through the steps for making a print in Photoshop?" This post will cover a typical printing session. However, because of the various versions of Adobe's Photoshop that are being used, the two computer platforms and their operating systems (Mac, PC, OS X, XP, Vista, etc.), and the numerous printers that readers could be using, I cannot cover all of the possibilities. So for this walk through I am using the following:<br /><ul><li><a href="http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/index.html">Adobe Photoshop CS3</a> (the latest version of Photoshop at time of writing)</li><li>PC running Vista operating system</li><li><a href="http://h10088.www1.hp.com/cda/gap/display/main/gap_content.jsp?zn=gap&cp=1-247-313-350%5E81672_4000_100__jumpid=ex_r10931_go/b9180">Hewlett Packard Pro B9180 Pigment printer</a> (the 13"x19" printer I most frequently use).</li></ul>Although Photoshop is nearly identical on both platforms and the B9180 printing routine is similar to other manufacturers' printers, there are subtle differences. So, the information, screen images and example provided here must be viewed with your specific printing environment in mind and adjusted accordingly.<br /><br />Shown below is the main Photoshop window displaying the image that will be printed in this walk through:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMd6VT-Jkk2iAgI_eTd7D8STIQBr2-TLixdJPGdpQV1x9Rw8KDb3c9EUfaMUG3kv1BEVjFkzzrKNyXz0bWz5q2TgMFIXYiMb_q08Mvn_pt3nyuwMyuJ00QPv5Es_3qoJ-1oZZoEFNriWg/s1600-h/PS_Image_Screen.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMd6VT-Jkk2iAgI_eTd7D8STIQBr2-TLixdJPGdpQV1x9Rw8KDb3c9EUfaMUG3kv1BEVjFkzzrKNyXz0bWz5q2TgMFIXYiMb_q08Mvn_pt3nyuwMyuJ00QPv5Es_3qoJ-1oZZoEFNriWg/s400/PS_Image_Screen.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244233668345617810" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br />The following steps are used to send this image to the printer:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilo_dTYsO6-9OvE64MTFY0x-gcLOW9IWCWuRfdhlfANAwvKZkr7QfTm_igu_2SyAJKVdQa7rg_1EJfOEetawdxLqLZTXfj8c54Ke2YwINUpUM5ikJMgPaGY0-DYCUF0rkVdrsM1ucyT5A/s1600-h/blog--6.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilo_dTYsO6-9OvE64MTFY0x-gcLOW9IWCWuRfdhlfANAwvKZkr7QfTm_igu_2SyAJKVdQa7rg_1EJfOEetawdxLqLZTXfj8c54Ke2YwINUpUM5ikJMgPaGY0-DYCUF0rkVdrsM1ucyT5A/s400/blog--6.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244439210399187394" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br /><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">1. From the "File" menu, select "Print". </span><br /><br />Notice that Photoshop CS3 has eliminated the "Print with Preview" option from the file menu. All printing tasks now take place from the "Print" selection. (For owners of HP's B9180 printer, the HP Pro Print plug-in does not work with Photoshop CS3)<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPc-w2_-runUSKJ_MapXf_Ozp4NZSiY8FPhB10TQUKX1NarHz4LdLlq1PfNdT5KKG8O591hpQoLE_lBnvv3IQf_AFYAhJ2PyqrX0szviFzeFBWD22_5OpCZ9mH5B1i23TLxNNrmqsiTms/s1600-h/PS_Main_Print_Screen.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 402px; height: 261px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPc-w2_-runUSKJ_MapXf_Ozp4NZSiY8FPhB10TQUKX1NarHz4LdLlq1PfNdT5KKG8O591hpQoLE_lBnvv3IQf_AFYAhJ2PyqrX0szviFzeFBWD22_5OpCZ9mH5B1i23TLxNNrmqsiTms/s400/PS_Main_Print_Screen.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244442219695671362" border="0" /></a></div><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">2. Here’s Photoshop CS3’s main “Print” screen.</span><br /><br />Below the preview image on this screen is a quick control for changing the orientation of the picture to either vertical or horizontal.<br /><br />In the “Printer” pull down menu (top of center column) select your printer (in this case the B9180).<br /><br />“Position” (middle of center column) can be used to customize the location of the image on the printed page. In this example, I've elected to "center" the picture on the page.<br /><br />Check “Scale to Fit Media” if you want Photoshop to fill the page with your image. This selection is not checked in this example because the print is already sized by the photographer (10x6.6 in.) (Future posts will provide detailed information on sizing images and interpolation issues.)<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0GCBjzc_4H95Aki4SOGfxgbCcOzLEGMr1wduQn8Vgxq74LpM2IfVEM_t951BkQTxio2due_IWQY9rco6sjoNCazdtQnljZtebix2iyvtE37OmXqNT7ajxx3K8rweqYyth98ICcFQKF8Y/s1600-h/PS_Page_SetUp.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0GCBjzc_4H95Aki4SOGfxgbCcOzLEGMr1wduQn8Vgxq74LpM2IfVEM_t951BkQTxio2due_IWQY9rco6sjoNCazdtQnljZtebix2iyvtE37OmXqNT7ajxx3K8rweqYyth98ICcFQKF8Y/s400/PS_Page_SetUp.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244444152646871634" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">3. Clicking on the “Page Setup...” button</span> (located in the center column below the "Copies" entry box) in the main print screen above produces this sub-menu to confirm the printer and paper size selection (in this case US Letter size paper will be used). I could also have selected "Borderless 8.5x11 in." to produce a print that covers the entire page and eliminate borders. Double check the "Format for:" box to ensure your printer is selected. The "Orientation" box gives you another opportunity to orientate your image (vertical or horizontal). Finally, the "Scale" entry box on this menu allows you to determine a percentage enlargement. 100% is full size image. Less than 100% reduces the size of the image on the printed page while numbers greater than 100 will enlarge the printed image. (I generally use the sizing boxes on the main print menu to set any scaling options.)<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT4gIyc1EBCpFsv5qRMdcjkLt00VliCwcF_joAx91iQbVWEsbAAMdFmMNVCcjP4wx0nGIpHCq6WFEkuEfAtpjzizWi2-cy2CVo5AFHLgcjhDe-Tz26fxMkmDlV7s3zn-MJ54SNHKLerVc/s1600-h/PS_PS_Managed_Color.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT4gIyc1EBCpFsv5qRMdcjkLt00VliCwcF_joAx91iQbVWEsbAAMdFmMNVCcjP4wx0nGIpHCq6WFEkuEfAtpjzizWi2-cy2CVo5AFHLgcjhDe-Tz26fxMkmDlV7s3zn-MJ54SNHKLerVc/s400/PS_PS_Managed_Color.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244447944973739426" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">4. After clicking on OK in the Page Setup menu above you are returned to the main print screen.</span><br /><br />Notice that the Document Profile being used here is Adobe RGB (1998). This is the color space that was originally set in the camera's menu and subsequently used by Photoshop.<br /><br />In the “Color Handling” pull down menu select “Photoshop Manages Colors”. This selection tells Photoshop to use the “Printer Profile” we specify in the next step to control the color conversion from Adobe RGB to the profile of the paper being used. Notice the top selection is "Printer Manages Colors". Today's printer manufacturers have developed print drivers with the capability to perform their own profile conversion. Although these drivers are becoming better and better, I normally allow Photoshop to manage the color conversion.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8YZt0-FgZ-bFK3UAkRd6L5hdSeTBWNUE7idd7pkSER15PUaVoKiXArBUntZ3rj7RwgJNAeo-KSLxaje5RmlP6J_K5IuVVAKOz1tVLqK-GQEG5qfyZBM-zIjMu7YIQJGjda1Gp9xggT84/s1600-h/PS_Printer_Profile_Select.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8YZt0-FgZ-bFK3UAkRd6L5hdSeTBWNUE7idd7pkSER15PUaVoKiXArBUntZ3rj7RwgJNAeo-KSLxaje5RmlP6J_K5IuVVAKOz1tVLqK-GQEG5qfyZBM-zIjMu7YIQJGjda1Gp9xggT84/s400/PS_Printer_Profile_Select.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244450295173476434" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">5. Now you need to tell Photoshop which ICC Profile to use by identifying the paper you are using in the “Printer Profile” pull down menu. </span><br /><br />In this example, HP Advanced Photo Paper Glossy is being used. When the print instructions are being generated, Photoshop will seek out the ICC profile for this particular paper selection and apply it to the image being printed. Notice that every paper recommended for this printer is listed in this menu. It's apparent that each paper has its own unique printing characteristics that require their own ICC profile.<br /><br />Some of the paper selections on this menu have been provided by the printer manufacturer and were placed on your computer when you installed the printer's driver software. Other 3rd party papers have been added to this menu. Most 3rd party paper manufacturers' websites provide ICC profiles for their papers to work with your printer. These profiles can be downloaded and added to Photoshop's collection of papers for your printer.<br /><br />It's not unusual for professional photographers to decide that it's best to create ICC paper profiles specific to their iDarkroom environment. In this case, they use paper profiling equipment and software from companies like <a href="http://www.xrite.com/home.aspx">X-Rite</a> to generate these unique ICC profiles.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj5sZG7rvX5LDLah50aQtlKh5fAn5h9tvGQQ8ut35dniJz0qeLlDKZmk7oEC9gXHN_dCcq3i5t2Mt3cjk3nnoi7_BrFfqiKaNR4x6MuZxaLiWXqpvo58TsK6NA-zPuO-RRUuzo6xchbfA/s1600-h/PS_render_intent.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj5sZG7rvX5LDLah50aQtlKh5fAn5h9tvGQQ8ut35dniJz0qeLlDKZmk7oEC9gXHN_dCcq3i5t2Mt3cjk3nnoi7_BrFfqiKaNR4x6MuZxaLiWXqpvo58TsK6NA-zPuO-RRUuzo6xchbfA/s400/PS_render_intent.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244454480725291842" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">6. Select “Perceptual” from the “Rendering Intent” pull down menu. </span> This is the selection most often used for photographs to produce "natural" colors. Rendering Intent tells Photoshop exactly how colors that are “outside” the printer's gamut are to be brought into the gamut and positioned relative to “in” gamut colors.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-tMrnWLdcBY9NgVMrygbyAHVDGWhdyqZbeWXzAvmXN4-x9MpFLBA3oAGgjX80-DoeR9I7lT28GLm7iORkPxKupIrsZZ28oYX-l_YRXUfavmfse_Z3nlbwWZUaaUEFONpVUv9nKMXXSew/s1600-h/PS_FinalPrint_Screen.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-tMrnWLdcBY9NgVMrygbyAHVDGWhdyqZbeWXzAvmXN4-x9MpFLBA3oAGgjX80-DoeR9I7lT28GLm7iORkPxKupIrsZZ28oYX-l_YRXUfavmfse_Z3nlbwWZUaaUEFONpVUv9nKMXXSew/s400/PS_FinalPrint_Screen.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244456457463873554" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br /><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">7. After selecting the "Rendering Intent", click on the "Print" button</span> (shown on the lower right in the image above). Clicking on the Print button will produce this pop up menu overlaying the main print window.<br /><br />From the center pull down menu select "Paper: Type/Quality". From the options presented choose: the paper you are using, "Best" for Quality, and -- in the case of the B9180 - choose the paper source. Either "Main tray" or "Specialty Media Tray".<br /><br />NOW, CLICK ON THE "PRINT" BUTTON. Your printer should start churning out that award-winning print.<br /><br />Wasn't that easy? Actually, these steps become second nature after a few printing sessions and only take a few moments to complete.<br /><br />Again, remember this example was specific to HP's B9180 printer. Epson and Canon printing steps are nearly identical but contain some subtle differences. Most companies attempt to help you through the process of making your "first" print with additional educational materials on their website. Here is the link to the listing of these materials on the <a href="http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/support/supDetail.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&infoType=Doc&oid=104488&prodoid=63075040">Epson</a> website. <a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcategoryid=182&modelid=12414#DownloadDetailAct">Canon</a> has a similar list of support and instructional materials. Also, Epson, HP and Canon specific blogs are filled with customer experiences for nearly every printer made by these companies. These blogs can provide a wealth of tips for image making from your particular printer.<br /><br />In any case, these iDarkroom printing steps are much easier, more convenient and safer than constructing a darkroom, mixing chemicals, developing film, drying film, using an enlarger, developing the wet print and drying the print required in traditional film-based photography.<br /><br />Finally, understanding the steps in this walk through will serve you well regardless of the image editing software or the computer platform you are using. The process is similar for all programs and platforms.<br /><br />If you have questions or comments, you know where to find me.<br /><br /></div></div>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-89083370727801695762008-09-09T09:21:00.001-07:002009-01-10T23:49:06.954-08:00Part 8 - Inkjet Printers - Dye vs. Pigment Ink<div xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"><br />Just when you think it's safe to go to your photo store and speak "printer-ese", another term and another decision shakes your confidence. Do I buy a printer that uses "dye-based" inks or "pigment-based" inks?<br /><br />The choice you make does have a significant impact on your image making. Like everything else in photography, there are trade-offs to consider. This post is intended to explain the basic differences between these two ink types and make it easier for you to make your printer purchase.<br /><br /><b><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Background</span></b><br /><br /><b><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Dye-based inks</span></b> have been around in the inkjet printer marketplace since the beginning. The dyes used to produce this ink are derived from vegetable matter that contains the desired color, or they are produced synthetically in the lab. Just as Indians would produce paints from the extracts of plants to add color to fabric, so do modern color scientists develop dyes used to manufacture their inkjet inks.<br /><br />Dye ink has a clear cut set of advantages:<br /><ul><li>The size of the color particle is very small and easily dissolved in solution.</li><li>The particle size is small enough to penetrate any printing paper.</li><li>The colors are generally numerous, bright and colorful to provide a broad color range.</li><li>Because these dyes are absorbed into the printing paper, they provide excellent glossy prints.</li></ul><br /><div align="center"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/Hubscamera/SMWsl46yTqI/AAAAAAAAATo/u2Agz9KOY7Y/%5BUNSET%5D.jpg" style="max-width: 800px;" /><br /><div align="left"><br />Dye inks also have a list of photographic disadvantages:<br /><ul><li>Prints made with dye inks have a shorter life expectancy.<br /></li><li>Bleeding is a concern (bleeding occurs as a drop of dye ink falls on a piece of paper and begins to expand in size or spread out as the drop is absorbed into the paper).</li><li>Dye inks are NOT water resistant (much like watercolors in the painting world).<br /></li></ul><br />But for many years, dye inks have been the industry standard and have been a major contributor in raising digital photography to an art form.<br /><br /><b><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Pigment inks</span></b> have been a serious alternative to dye inks for nearly a decade now. Unlike dye inks, pigment inks are derived from ground up minerals. The resulting sizes of the pigment particles are 50 to 250 times larger than dye particles. Although relatively new to the inkjet scene, pigment inks/paints have been used for centuries in the world of art.<br /><br />As you probably have guessed, there is a list of advantages that pigment inks bring to the photographic table:<br /><ul><li>Pigment inks are very stable and resistant to fading.</li><li>Pigment ink's resistance to water and moisture is superior.</li><li>Pigment inks can also produce exceptional black and white prints.</li></ul><br />Unlike dye inks, pigment inks are NOT absorbed into the paper. Pigment droplets remain on the paper's surface:<br /><br /><div align="center"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/Hubscamera/SMXHiWYi1aI/AAAAAAAAATs/jzQEb1IxWGI/%5BUNSET%5D.jpg" style="max-width: 800px;" /><br /></div><br />The most significant disadvantages of pigment inks are:<br /><ul><li>The large pigment particle size is hard to maintain in solution (pigments want to settle out of solution).</li><li>Because the pigment droplets remain on the surface of the paper, it is hard to produce a high-gloss print and the effect known as metamerism is visible on these papers. <i>(Metamerism will be covered in a future post.)</i><br /></li><li>Although rapidly improving, the color gamut of pigment inks is smaller than dye inks.</li></ul><br />The problem with maintaining these particles in solution is best seen when you compare the relative sizes of dye and pigment particles:<br /><br /><div align="center"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/Hubscamera/SMXIySMQuVI/AAAAAAAAATw/vT3QnjZtnDk/%5BUNSET%5D.jpg" style="max-width: 800px;" /><br /><div align="left"><br />The dye ink particle on the left is small enough (averaging about 2 nanometers in size) to dissolve in the ink's carrier solution (and remain in solution) while the larger pigment particle is difficult to hold in suspension and tends to settle and clump together. It's this clumping and settling that produces the clogging of nozzles that's so frequently discussed on blogs and forums. The big three printer manufacturers, Epson, HP and Canon, have all worked diligently on producing ways of reducing this clumping and clogging tendency on their printers by encapsulating the pigment particles.<br /><br />Today the situation is much improved. Although head clogging hasn't been eliminated, by carefully following the manufacturer's maintenance suggestions this problem and the associated expense of cleaning (or replacing) printheads can be greatly reduced. <b>As a general "Hub" rule: Pigment printers work most consistently with minimal maintenance issues when used regularly.</b> Working the printer helps keep the pigments in suspension and greatly reduces the probability of excessive settling/clumping.<br /><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);"><br /><b>So, which is best?</b></span><br /><br />There is no single answer for this question. The answer is best found in your requirements. If a large color gamut or high-gloss prints are your primary objectives, then dye inks are an excellent choice.<br /><br />If long life, permanence and water/humidity resistance are your biggest concerns, then pigment inks are the clear winner. Pigment prints (kept in a photographically safe environment) will have a life expectancy of 4 or 5 times that of dye prints. Current testing done by the <a href="http://www.wilhelm-research.com/index.html">Wilhelm Imaging Research</a> organization shows some pigment inks have a 250+ year archival life. To learn more about the specific life expectancy results for any printer you might be considering, check out the test results on the <a href="http://www.wilhelm-research.com/index.html">Wilhelm website</a>. It's this long life characteristic that drives many fine art and professional photographers to select pigment ink printers for the prints they sell to make a living.<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(102, 51, 0);"><i>Note: There's much debate over the validity of print life expectancy testing. Since these tests must be conducted in a lab using accelerated testing methods, some experts dispute the results. However, there is some historic precedence for concluding that prints produced using pigment inks will enjoy an extremely long life. After all, the works of Rembrandt and Leonardo da Vinci were made using pigment-based paints, and they seem to be doing just fine.</i></span><br /><br /><a href="http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/index.jsp">Epson</a>, <a href="http://h10088.www1.hp.com/cda/gap/display/main/gap_home.jsp?zn=gap&cp=1_4011_100__&vertical=ga-gw">Hewlett Packard</a> and <a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ProductCatIndex1Act&fcategoryid=103">Canon</a> offer dye-based and pigment-based photo printers. Most camera stores will even make sample prints from your digital files to compare results. In this way, you can see the results of dye and pigment inks as well as the capability of different printers. Of course, ask other photographers for their opinion. (We all have opinions on this subject.) Personally, I use three different printers in my iDarkroom. They are all pigment printers.<br /><br />There is no debate among photographers that ink and paper cost too much. As a life long photographer, I don't see these costs as much more than I experienced with my own traditional "wet" darkroom. (To provide the best images for my customers, I consistently used the best chemistry and paper on the market.) It's part of the cost of doing business.<br /><br />There are also several manufacturers making their own versions of the manufacturers' original inks for considerably less. Some even sell their inks in bulk ink systems to save the user even more per milliliter. I have seen many tests that indicate these inks do not exhibit the life expectancy or color gamut of the original manufacturers' inks. (I'll probably get lots of email about this.) However, the choice is personal. Only you can decide if any of these 3rd party products are the right choice for your quality needs and financial situation.<br /><br />For the moment, decide if dye or pigment inks work best for you. And begin your own printer research. <i><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">If you haven't already guessed, you cannot buy a single printer that uses both dye and pigment inks. It's an "either or" situation. Once you've decided the type of ink you want to use, you will automatically be limited to a line of printers (from each manufacturer) that can accept the ink you've selected. So any printer decision begins with making an ink selection.</span></i><br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/Hubscamera/SMXjVKurJbI/AAAAAAAAAT0/6Y_iT9n446Q/%5BUNSET%5D.jpg" style="max-width: 800px; width: 107px; height: 71px;" /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/Hubscamera/SMXjnghFQ6I/AAAAAAAAAT8/NFFcS17wq7w/%5BUNSET%5D.jpg" style="max-width: 800px;" /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/Hubscamera/SMXjvuCUErI/AAAAAAAAAUA/tkW3WYgOiN4/%5BUNSET%5D.jpg" style="max-width: 800px; width: 168px; height: 64px;" /><br /><small><i><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Current Epson 2880, HP B9180 and Canon Pro9500 are today's contenders for "top of the printer pack" in the 13"x19" pigment printer class.</span></i></small><br /><br />Hope this discussion gives you the basic information needed to select your next printer. If you have any questions or comments, you know where to find me.<br /></div></div><br /></div></div><p class="scribefire-powered">Powered by <a href="http://www.scribefire.com/">ScribeFire</a>.</p></div>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-78441581040114753112008-09-04T00:51:00.001-07:002009-01-10T23:33:55.887-08:00Part 7 - Inkjet Printer Color Primer<div xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"><br />At this point, you should understand the variables involved in calibrating the workflow to provide a dependable, color-managed environment. We do this homework and technical preparation to accomplish one thing -- make a print.<br /><br />As a result, it seems reasonable that before rushing out to buy a printer, we need to understand the photo printer technology that's on the market today. This will be the topic of the next series of <i>iDarkroom</i> posts.<br /><br />There is a significant difference between the typical inkjet printer used in offices to make copies, send faxes and print emails and the printers which serious amateur and professional photographers choose to make the final print that the world will see.<br /><br />For all practical purposes, the home <i>iDarkroom</i> enthusiast will select an inkjet printer. Printer manufacturers (for the most part) have focused on inkjet printing as the technology most appropriate to serious photographic printing. This technology has exploded over the past decade to provide printers capable of producing images that rival, and in some cases exceed, the results obtained using traditional photo processing.<br /><br />All inkjet printers work on the same basic principles. Minute dots of ink are placed in extremely close proximity to each other. In the most basic color inkjet printers, these dots are either cyan, magenta, yellow or black. In more advanced printers, additional colors of ink are incorporated to improve the overall color gamut of the printer (always trying to enlarge the gamut to come closer to the gamut of the camera). Colors of ink most typically added to inkjet printers are light cyan, light magenta, shades of gray, and occasionally a red, green and/or blue.<br /><i><br /></i>You see the magic and the technology at work when you look at a TV or monitor through a simple magnifying glass. The monitor (close up) is made up of millions of colored elements. In the case of the TV or monitor, these elements are either red, green or blue (the real primary colors). A photographic pixel is represented by one each red, green and blue element. For each frame of the image you see on TV, the elements that represent the colors in the scene are switched on. Depending on how many elements of a single color are turned on in a specific area, and which elements are turned on in the surrounding area of the scene, determines the detail and the color perceived.<br /><br /><div align="center"><img alt="" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/Hubscamera/SL-TdjS252I/AAAAAAAAATg/IbI55cEUGCo/%5BUNSET%5D.jpg" height="229" width="241" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><small>Close up of red, green and blue elements in a white area of a scene.<br /><i>(from Accurate Image Manipulation by Timo Autiokari)</i><br /></small></span></div><br />Because the elements are far too small for our eyes to detect individually, we perceive masses of elements. This mass (depending on which pixels are turned on) is seen as a particular shade of color. Look at the simplest example first. If only the red pixels were turned on, we would see the color red over the entire screen, of course. The same is true for green and blue. But what if all of the red elements and all of the blue elements were turned on? What color would we see on the screen? The answer is magenta (a purple-pinkish color). The same example but with only red and green elements would yield the color yellow, while 50% green and 50% blue elements would be perceived as the color cyan (sort of a turquoise color). If all elements are turned on (red, green and blue), what color would you see? If all the pixels are turned off, what color would you see? Right, black (or no color). With millions of pixels on your TV and monitor, it's possible to create virtually every color under the rainbow by selectively mixing the pixels that are "on" and "off" in relation to their neighboring pixels.<br /><br />Printers work in exactly the same fashion. But instead of using the primary colors (red, green, and blue), printers use the secondary colored inks (cyan, magenta and yellow). So, what about the black cartridge in my printer? Well, in theory, the combining of cyan, magenta and yellow ink produces the color black. However, in the real world of ink and paper, combining the secondaries in equal proportions produces "mud" (a dirty dark brown). So, a black ink cartridge is added to the mix to produce a true black on paper. Second trick question. If combining cyan, magenta and yellow produces (in theory) the color black, how is the color white produced on an inkjet printer?<br /><br />The answer is: <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">It isn't. </span><br /><br />The paper is white. So, the absence of any cyan, magenta, or yellow ink means no ink is placed on the paper, and we see that <span style="font-style: italic;">lack of ink</span> as the white of the paper. Naturally. This is true for traditional photo processing as well. Anytime white appears in a picture, it's actually the base (white paper) that's being seen.<br /><br /><br /><div align="center"><img alt="" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/Hubscamera/SL-TeipQMGI/AAAAAAAAATk/-z_r0Vpq1y4/%5BUNSET%5D.png" height="254" width="309" /><br /><br /><small><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">This graphic shows the cyan, magenta, yellow and black dots that create the image and colors in an inkjet print. Notice the colors overlap to produce their primary cousins (red, green and blue).</span></small><br /><br /><br /></div><div align="center"><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);"><b>Color Imaging Math</b><br /></span></div><br /><div align="center"><small><i>Using the Primary Color Pallet (Red, Green and Blue)<br />Often referred to as RGB or Additive Color. Remember Adobe RGB?</i></small><br /></div><ul><li><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Red+Blue = Magenta</span></li><li><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Red+Green = Yellow</span></li><li><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Green+Blue = Cyan</span></li><li><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Red+Blue+Green = White</span></li></ul><small><i><br /></i></small><div align="center"><small><i>Using the Secondary Colors (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow)<br />Often referred to a CMYK or Subtractive printing (K stands for the extra black ink that's included in the printing system)</i></small><br /></div><ul><li><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Cyan+Magenta = Blue</span></li><li><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Cyan+Yellow = Green</span></li><li><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Yellow+Magenta = Red</span></li><li><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Cyan+Magenta+Yellow = Black</span></li></ul><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br /></span><div align="center"><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">By using all the colors of the primary <strong>OR</strong> secondary color pallets in VARYING amounts all colors can be reproduced.</span><br /></div><br /><br /><div align="center"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/Hubscamera/SL-BjunjKSI/AAAAAAAAATY/gnXJEvbOs7k/%5BUNSET%5D.png" style="max-width: 800px;" /><br /></div><br />Here's the color wheel that photographers and photofinishers have used for centuries. From this graphic, the relationship of the primaries or additives can be seen where the red, green and blue circles overlap to produce the secondary colors -- cyan, magenta, yellow -- and finally white where all three colors intersect.<br /><br /><div align="center"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/Hubscamera/SL-Cdi2mEPI/AAAAAAAAATc/bOY9v8zAVwo/%5BUNSET%5D.png" style="max-width: 800px;" /><br /></div><br />This is the color wheel that traditional press printers (i.e. commercial offset presses and inkjet printers) use to explain the relationship of the secondary or subtractive colors -- cyan, magenta, yellow. These colors overlap to produce the red, green and blue primaries as well as the color black where they all intersect.<br /><br />As with other topics discussed in this series of posts for the beginning <i>iDarkroom</i> enthusiast, there is much more to the subject of color reproduction. But a solid understanding of these fundamental concepts will serve you well for making your first quality inkjet prints.<br /><br />The next post will continue the inkjet printer discussion with the basics of Dye and Pigment inks. The decision as to whether you will use Dye inks or Pigment inks plays a major role in your printer purchase.<br /><br />I hope this first basic inkjet printing post has been easy to follow. If you have any questions or comments, you know where to find me.<br /><p class="scribefire-powered">Powered by <a href="http://www.scribefire.com/">ScribeFire</a>.</p></div>Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-85720471230946418752008-09-01T11:24:00.000-07:002009-01-11T17:06:21.246-08:00Part 6 - Which Digital Imaging Software Is Best?<span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Understand from the outset that I will not be answering this question.</span> I will share with you the software that I use and will be most frequently cited in this iDarkroom blog. I will also let you know the reasons I selected the software I use. In the end, the choice of software is a personal decision. Fortunately, most major software producers now offer you the opportunity to try and then buy. You wouldn't buy a car before test driving it. Today, your software decisions can be made taking the same precautions.<br /><br />So, I started with <a href="http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/index.html">Adobe Photoshop</a> long before it had any numbers or letters (CS3) after its name. We've had a long and mostly friendly relationship. There's a lot of "comfort factor" and "you can't teach an old dog new tricks" in my resistance to software change. Within the last 2 years, I have added Adobe's <a href="http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshoplightroom/">Lightroom</a> to my imaging software suite. For me, this is the perfect imaging duo.<br /><br />I am also an avid Macintosh user. (Strange for a guy who used to work at Hewlett Packard.) Apple's <a href="http://www.apple.com/aperture/">Aperture</a> software is the competing product to Lightroom. <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">I have absolutely nothing negative to say about Aperture.</span> And I know photographers who are die hard Aperture users. My Lightroom decision was initially based on a self-imposed requirement. Because of the photographic instructional presentations I make, I wanted all my programs to be compatible with both Macs and PCs. At the moment, Aperture is limited to Macs only.<br /><br />Knowing what I now know after using Photoshop and Lightroom together for almost 2 years, I would strongly recommend that new photographers just entering the iDarkroom take a serious look at Lightroom or Aperture as their first imaging software purchase. I make this suggestion for several reasons:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(255, 102, 0);"><li>They both have the editing/correction features that first time users most need.<br /></li><li>Both have extensive image file cataloging and management features (affectionately known as DAM -- Digital Asset Management -- in the industry).<br /></li><li>They both cost less than Photoshop.<br /></li><li>They are relatively easy to learn (compared to the more complex and extensive Photoshop).<br /></li><li>Much of Lightroom's look and feel is shared with Photoshop.</li><li>Lightroom is tightly integrated with Photoshop.</li></ul>The last two reasons are important if you ever decide to break into the piggy bank and purchase Photoshop. With the recent release of Lightroom 2, even more features have been added.<br /><br />For me, Lightroom (and the same can probably be said of Aperture by its advocates) has made my photographic life much simpler. These programs bring instant organization and simplification to the photographer's worst nightmare -- cataloging, consistent metadata/keyword usage, and image retrieval. This DAM capability allows you to:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(255, 102, 0);"><li>Import your images from your data card, enter metadata (see definition at end of this blog) and preview your images in record time,</li><li>Group images based on your criteria,</li><li> Sort instantly through thousands of images and be presented with only images relevant to your search by using keywords and the incorporated image rating techniques.</li></ul><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivyWzU846uoAeWU9YnBz10mOmETiXEpoIXcM_bTRaiAmzhi1NLmosxJY9mhvpJ34DaqNib_N3f5l25_SGLg2Ma9fu8f8_woQ4U0uChLhvKEwC1CZMyPXU9zDkjfTbBt7U8k5Cr85USO6Y/s1600-h/alaska_library_LR.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivyWzU846uoAeWU9YnBz10mOmETiXEpoIXcM_bTRaiAmzhi1NLmosxJY9mhvpJ34DaqNib_N3f5l25_SGLg2Ma9fu8f8_woQ4U0uChLhvKEwC1CZMyPXU9zDkjfTbBt7U8k5Cr85USO6Y/s400/alaska_library_LR.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5241168638786737346" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Shown here is Lightroom's Library Screen. In this case, I asked for all pictures of Alaska. I was presented with 1,000 pictures that were Alaska specific in thumbnail previews in the center of the screen - like a traditional contact sheet.</span></span><br /></div><br />For the beginning DSLR user, keeping track of all those digital files can be overwhelming. (Consider the wedding photographer who may take 500 or more images at each event.) Here's a way to organize all your images as well as all the information about each image and to have the files always at your fingertips.<br /><br />If that isn't enough these programs provide extensive image editing capabilities:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(255, 102, 0);"><li>Histograms of each image</li><li>Color Correction</li><li>Exposure Control</li><li>Option to apply the same corrections to "batches" of images<br /></li><li>Contrast Correction</li><li>Hue, Saturation and Luminance Control</li><li>Sharpening</li><li>Cropping</li><li>Image Straightening</li><li>Red Eye Reduction</li><li>Special effect filters/plug ins<br /></li><li>and more.</li></ul><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnfbM5B04wGYDTmItG6U2CkZ4wxK2Dhcaasb26jrJ3yMzugzl0hw0IEMDhFtHoy9FiEgTIfUlLSyMmtOAzXyB3Bog0XT98hyphenhyphenm_jVZGJOf4YIOSWAwK6GT5Fk3JkjqPqp0s-lISED-Kff4/s1600-h/Alaska_Develop_LR.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnfbM5B04wGYDTmItG6U2CkZ4wxK2Dhcaasb26jrJ3yMzugzl0hw0IEMDhFtHoy9FiEgTIfUlLSyMmtOAzXyB3Bog0XT98hyphenhyphenm_jVZGJOf4YIOSWAwK6GT5Fk3JkjqPqp0s-lISED-Kff4/s400/Alaska_Develop_LR.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5241169635515043586" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">In Lightroom's "Develop" section, I have complete editing and correction control with the array of tools at the right and bottom of the image. Notice the excellent histogram in the upper right hand corner -- complete with "out of limit" indicators.</span></span><br /></div><br />Best of all, you are working in a "non-destructive image editing" environment. <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">Your original image is never altered and always available.</span> Any image editing changes you make are placed in a separate file and applied to the image each time you view the preview, export the file or print the image. In this way, making multiple copies of a file as you make creative changes is no longer necessary. Lightroom "remembers" your corrections, but doesn't alter the original image in the process.<br /><br />There are other features in both programs (Lightroom and Aperture) that are gravy to the main cataloging and editing features most of us require:<br /><ul style="color: rgb(255, 102, 0);"><li>Ability to produce slide shows</li><li>A multitude of print output and formatting options</li><li>Options for using the images on the web<br /></li><li>Ability to export (single or multiple files) to specified file formats and image sizes</li><li>And so on...</li></ul>As your skills and confidence grow, you can always move to an advanced image editing program like Photoshop.<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">(But between you and me, because I'm pretty careful about how I compose and expose my images, Lightroom's image editing capabilities have caused me to rely much less on Photoshop. Don't tell Adobe.)</span><br /><br />But don't take my word for it. Do the <span style="font-weight: bold;">"try then buy"</span> thing. Check out Adobe and Apple's websites for their features, specifications and photographers' testimonials then download the trial versions. And decide for yourself.<br /><br />The good new is: Whether you ultimately decide on Photoshop, Lightroom, Aperture or other high end editing software, they will all have more capability and flexibility than you will need for quite some time.<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">Metadata definition: Metadata is text information either automatically or manually entered and included with every DSLR image. This information provides a complete history of the image (camera, model, f/stop, shutter speed, date, etc). In addition, information can be included about the photographer, captions, copyright and the all-important KEYWORDS. This data is contained within the image file and is available for use and modification by editing and cataloging software. See <a href="http://hubsidarkroom.blogspot.com/2008/10/part-14-photographic-metadata.html">Part 14</a> of this iDarkroom Primer for a more complete explanation of Metadata.</span><br /><br />I hope my experience with image editing software has answered some of your questions. If you have questions or comments, you know where to find me.Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2804510355190721009.post-57187165008524108652008-08-24T14:38:00.000-07:002009-01-09T02:38:29.173-08:00Part 5 - ICC ProfilesFor purposes of simplification, an ICC profile is a small computer file that’s associated with a specific photographic input or output device. This file contains all of the information necessary to tell a computer’s operating system or image editing software exactly what colors and tones the device is capable of producing. ICC profiles come from many sources. Monitor and printer manufacturers include ICC profiles with their equipment. Many software developers include ICC profiles. Third party paper manufacturers provide ICC profiles on their websites for specific printers. Photographers may even have the sophisticated hardware and software to create custom ICC profiles.<br /><br />Shown below is some of the information inside these ICC files as seen using Apple Computer's ColorSynch utility:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicaLx4gN_nV03DwhyknHf3vBjcEds5prTcKFGHjH6C_HHQkvqyjaVy-IpkGMwR5k-MTTCiPbtqPZMLNRv-vcgppP-Y0LG7WRWJoe1GjwHdiJVHvKhEc7AuCznwqdCd1938vj0QL8F-JUI/s1600-h/ICC+Profile+Window.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicaLx4gN_nV03DwhyknHf3vBjcEds5prTcKFGHjH6C_HHQkvqyjaVy-IpkGMwR5k-MTTCiPbtqPZMLNRv-vcgppP-Y0LG7WRWJoe1GjwHdiJVHvKhEc7AuCznwqdCd1938vj0QL8F-JUI/s400/ICC+Profile+Window.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238215917576107570" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Now that you've seen it, forget it. For those just starting in the iDarkroom, </span></span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">it's important to know what these files do, and understand that ICC profiles are at work in the background.</span></span><br /></div><br />Regardless of their origin, all ICC profiles have the same purpose -- <span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">accurately describing (in computer language) the color reproduction capabilities of a specific device (e.g., a monitor or printer)</span>. This information is used to adjust the current color information to conform to the output device’s unique color gamut.<br /><br />As discussed previously, color gamuts typically <span style="font-weight: bold;">decrease in size</span> as they move from the camera to the monitor to the printer. Each color space must be “compressed” to fit into the new, smaller space. (I must quickly add that “compressed” is not technically accurate, but it does convey the idea.) In other words, colors that are outside the gamut of the next device in line are <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">“moved”</span> to the closest color in the new color space. The effect of this repositioning ranges from very subtle to very dramatic. It is, however, the <span style="font-weight: bold;">compromise</span> that must be made.<br /><br />Our original camera exposure was recorded in Adobe’s RGB color space. (The use of this color space was selected in the camera's menu.) This original digital color information must be translated to display within the monitor’s color space. If the monitor has an ICC profile, the computer’s operating system will use this file and the table of information it contains to adjust the Adobe RGB color information to conform to the color space of the monitor.<br /><br />In the case of a calibrated monitor, the ICC profile is the product of the calibration process described in my earlier post. Once the hardware calibrator attached to the screen has determined the capabilities of the monitor, it creates an ICC profile specific to that display. This is even more accurate than an ICC profile supplied by the manufacturer because it reflects the current state of YOUR monitor.<br /><br />ICC profiles for printers are generally supplied by the printer manufacturer or the makers of third party papers. It is also possible for photographers to create custom profiles for their specific printer/paper combinations. Again these custom profiles are more accurate because they are specific to the photographer’s equipment.<br /><br />As mentioned earlier, it’s not only the printer that determines the color range of the final print. Each paper reproduces colors, tones and contrasts differently. Printer ICC profiles account for the different reproduction characteristics of paper to provide color interpretations that are unique to each paper. So when printing a picture and the image editing software asks the user to specify a printer and paper, it’s really asking, <span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0); font-style: italic;">“What ICC profile should I use to print this image?”</span><br /><br />I do not recommend that beginners consider making printer profiles. The equipment is costly, and the process is complex and time consuming. Profiles supplied by paper and printer manufacturers are very good. Use them.<br /><br />I confess that this is a cursory explanation of a very complex topic, but understanding these basics will enhance your photographic printing skills immensely.<br /><br />It’s fair to say that digital photography seldom provides a true “What you see is what you get” (WYSIWYG) production environment. For that to happen, all the colors and tones in the original scene would have to fall into the native gamuts of each device in the system. Although the majority will, some will not. Be aware that in using current technology there will almost certainly be some subtle differences between your monitor, your printer and your perception of the original scene.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(102, 0, 0);">Synchronizing the system</span><br /><br />You are well on your way to taking some great images. But before strapping on your camera and packing up your tripod, there’s one more topic to discuss.<br /><br />Over the past 30 pages, we’ve learned how to make camera exposures that will technically reproduce well in print form. We know the formats for storing our pictures and the files these formats generate. We better understand the color worlds that make up the photographic work flow. The importance of calibration is understood. And we understand how these different color worlds can be made to work together using ICC profiles.<br /><br />All that’s left is to make certain the entire photographic environment is in sych. At this point synchronization is more a matter of standardization and organization. In other words, know when and where to apply what you have learned. Then do it consistently.<br /><ul><li>Follow the guidelines for proper camera exposure (see the <a href="http://www.hubbardcamera.com/">Hub's Camera Blog</a>).</li><li>Use the camera’s histogram display (see the <a href="http://www.hubbardcamera.com/">Hub's Camera Blog</a>).</li><li>Set a file format in your camera (preferably RAW).</li><li>Set a color space for your camera. (Adobe RGB is a good starting choice.)</li><li>Establish a working color space within your image editing software (in this case, Adobe RGB, 1998).<br /></li><li>Calibrate your monitor on a regular basis.</li><li>Calibrate your printer as needed (if the printer allows).</li><li>Have current ICC profiles for all your devices as provided by the manufacturer.<br /></li><li>Apply ICC profiles correctly.</li><li>Identify your monitor profile in the computer’s display utility.</li><li>When printing, use the correct ICC profile for the paper/printer combination being used.</li></ul>One of the most debated topics I've watched evolve on the numerous Internet photographic forums and blogs is the step by step process of printing a picture. Part 9 of this iDarkroom Primer walks you through the process of producing a final print using Photoshop and HP's B9180 professional pigment printer. The steps using other software and printer combinations are very similar and share the same basic actions and settings.<br /><br />If you have comments or suggestions, just drop me a line. You know where to find me.Hubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00286182348158010983noreply@blogger.com0