Installing a drain pipe is something that anyone can do if they have the right tools for the job. The task itself is slightly challenging to those who have never worked with pipes and plumbing before, but not something that cannot be done. You will only have to put a three-way joint into the pipe system, run your drain pipe off of that, and connect it to the sink up above — or the shower or whatever else it is that you want to drain. Before you begin, however, make sure that you have the following things. You will need to have the water turned off for the entire duration of the project, to avoid flooding the home, so you do not want to waste time driving to the hardware store to buy the things that you need.

Plumbing Wrenches

Adjustable wrenches are the best because they can be fit to any size pipe. If you know the exact size that you need, you can go with fixed wrenches, but this is not advisable. It is better to have the flexibility in case you have made a mistake in your measurements. This will also give you the ability to use the same wrenches for other projects in the future, saving you money in the long run.

Pipe Adhesive

If you are using plastic pipes, as many people do, you need to have some adhesive. This will be spread around with a brush on the end of the pipe and in the fitting. It dries quickly, so do not put it on the pipe until you are ready to put the pipe into the fitting. Once you have done this, hold it in place for a minute so that the adhesive can set. This is waterproof and will help to keep the pipe from leaking.

A Level

Above all else, you want to make sure that all of your pipes are running level — or that they are at least running downhill in the direction that you want them to drain. If they are running the wrong way, water can get backed up. The system will become inefficient and might not even work at all. You do not need an expensive level, but you should have one that is calibrated correctly so that you do not make a mistake.

A Saw

You will need some sort of a saw to cut the pipe. Some plumbers like to use hand saws because the plastic pipe is not that difficult to cut and a hand saw works without any power source; others like to use power saws because they are much faster and they make sure that you get a straight cut every time.

Peter Wendt is a writer and researcher living in Austin, Texas. He recommends you check out MVP-Plumbing services and San Antonio Plumber.

There are many jobs for which you may need to call out Woodbridge plumbers if you live in this area, and one of the most common is for blocked up drains.

However, there are plenty of quick and simple ways to keep your drains unblocked so that you don’t have to keep on relying on the services of Woodbridge plumbers, and you’ll be able to save a lot of money and hassle as a result.

Here are five of the best:

1. Don’t Tip Oil Down the Sink

This is one of the most effective ways to prevent your kitchen sink from getting clogged up. Instead of pouring cooking fat and grease down the sink, keep a small tub nearby so that you can discard of the oil this way. When oil cools down it solidifies and can easily clog up a sink, so making sure you pour away as little as possible down the drain is essential for keeping your kitchen in good working order. Also, get into the habit of wiping greasy plates and implements with a paper towel before washing them to stop the oil accumulating over time.

2. Prevent as Much Food as Possible Going Down the Drain

As well as discarding oil separately, try to make sure as little food as possible gets into the sink when washing up. Keep a bin nearby where you can scrape off all of the food waste before you wash the plates in the sink, and over time this can help to prevent your drains from getting clogged up.

3. Use a Guard

Another very simple way to prevent blockages is to place a plug guard into each sink and in the bath. These will collect hair, food and other items and stop them going down the sink where they can block up your drains. This is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent having to call out Woodbridge plumbers unnecessarily!

4. Limit what You Flush Down the Toilet

Be very careful about the items you flush down the toilet as some larger paper products can get stuck and cause a blockage, for which the services of a plumber may well be required. Always check whether an item is safe for disposing in the toilet, and keep a bin nearby for easy disposal if they are not.

5. Act Quickly and Regularly

No matter how careful you are with your sinks, you may notice from time to time that the water starts to disappear more slowly, indicating that something could be up with the pipes.
To prevent this from getting worse, try to get into the habit of pouring boiling water down each plug hole regularly. This is especially effective in the kitchen sink where it can break up the hardened oil and grease. Another technique, if the blockage is getting worse, is to pour baking soda and vinegar into the plug hole, followed by boiling water, and this can help to break up the blockage quicker.

Keep Your Drains Free

If you don’t want to have to call out Woodbridge plumbers every time your drains get blocked up then follow the simple steps outlined above. These are quick, effective and can help to prevent the need to call out a plumber more often than you have to. Save calling out a plumber for the real plumbing problems!

As spring draws to an end and a promising English summer begins, the gardening retail market is at its peak. With the garden on everybody’s mind, the sale of garden buildings and sheds in particular start to soar. This article explains something that not everyone is aware about, but everyone needs to know before buying a shed. Building a garden shed base which is firm and level is vital. A base must be constructed for any garden shed, and why pay excessive amounts to dodgy local handyman when you can do it yourself. With the help of the following, you can create your own base, and then you’ll have the perfect foundations for your garden shed.

Firstly, to ensure both ease of assembly and the longevity of your garden shed, it is essential that it has a firm and level base constructed from a durable material. Construction without such a base may not only invalidate any product guarantee that comes with your garden shed but also lead to problems such as doors dropping out of square and water leakage.

When choosing the location for a garden shed base, make sure not to place it too close to walls or fences as your garden shed may have an overhanging roof. Similarly, be careful when placing the base near overhanging branches or large bushes especially if they are likely to grow and come into contact with the shed in the future. If this is the case, cut these branches in advance and, once your shed is assembled, make sure to check nearby foliage regularly as any damage to the roofing felt may make your garden shed vulnerable to bad weather conditions. Finally, don’t forget to allow sufficient access to the outside walls so that you can apply regular wood treatments.

We recommend using a reputable local builder to construct a base for your garden shed where possible but if you feel comfortable with the task yourself, it is relatively straightforward to do.

It is strongly advised that you build your base slightly larger than the dimensions of your garden shed by approximately 30-40 mm (1.2-1.6 inches) on each side.

There are three main methods described below:

1. Concrete Base Method
2. Paving Slab Method
3. Timber Bearers Method

The first step is common to all methods:

Mark out the area where you plan to build your base with pegs and string and clear any vegetation within. You can ensure that your marked area is square by measuring diagonally between the top-left and bottom-right pegs and making sure that distance is equal to the distance between the top-right and bottom-left pegs. Alternatively, you can make use of a try square to ensure that all angles are at 90 degrees.

Concrete Base Method——————–

(This method is strongly recommended for larger garden sheds or log cabins.)

Excavate the ground in the marked area to an approximate depth of 150 mm (6 inches). Lay approximately 75 mm (3 inches) of firmly compacted hardcore, scalping or brick rubble to act as a sound foundation and level with compacted sand if appropriate with the aid of a rake. You can now remove the pegs and string.

The next step is to cut and fit four timber rails or steel shutters to create a frame for the concrete that will rest atop the foundation you just laid. Ensure that the base with its new shuttering is completely level and square with the aid of a tape measure, spirit level and try square.

Now lay approximately 75 mm (3 inches) of concrete. Concrete can be produced with bags of dry mixed concrete with small amounts of water added gradually or by making a mixture of “all-in” ballast, cement and water. If going for the latter option, mix five parts “all-in” ballast to one part cement. “All-in” ballast is usually sold in 40 kg bags at most building merchants and DIY stores and you will need approximately1.25 kg per cubic foot of concrete. Take care not to let the mix become too wet however as this will weaken the resulting concrete.

Spread the concrete evenly in the shuttering, making sure to push it into corners and edges. A good technique is to lay the concrete a layer at a time, compacting each as you go until the shuttering frame is full. Use a wooden or plastic float to make the concrete flush with the top of the framework.

Cover the concrete with sheets and allow it to dry naturally. Concrete must not dry too quickly so it may be necessary to spray it with water in warm and dry weather conditions to prolong the drying process.

Once dry, your base is complete and ready for you to begin assembly of your garden shed.

Paving Slab Method——————

Excavate the ground in the marked area to an approximate depth of 64 mm (2.5 inches) and remove the pegs and string. Lay approximately 40 mm (1.5 inches) of a mix of one part cement to eight parts building sand. Level this dry sand and cement mix with a rake and use a spirit level to check it.

Starting from a corner, lay paving slabs tapped down with a rubber mallet ensuring that the top of the slabs is slightly higher than the surrounding ground for rain water drainage. Again, use a spirit level when checking that the slabs are square, level and firmly butted together.

After brushing off any excess sand and cement mix, your base is now ready for your garden shed.

Timber Bearers Method———————

Excavate the ground in the marked area to an approximate depth of 50 mm (2 inches) and remove the pegs and string. Lay approximately 40 mm(1.5 inches) of gravel or soil, levelling it with a rake and checking with a spirit level.

Equally space concrete or pressure-treated (sometimes referred to as”tanalised”) timber bearers at intervals of approximately 400-600 mm(15.7-23.6 inches) across the gravel or soil. Ensure that the bearers are perpendicular to any floor joists that come with your garden shed. Use a spirit level to ensure that the bearers are level and use a rubber mallet to tap them down if necessary.

The number of floor bearers you need depends entirely on the size of your shed but here are some examples to give you a rough idea:

* 6×4 shed = 4 x 1150 mm (4 feet) long bearers

* 7×5 shed = 4 x 1450 mm (5 feet) long bearers

* 8×6 shed = 5 x 1750 mm (6 feet) long bearers

* 10×8 shed = 6 x 2350 mm (8 feet) long bearers

Your base is now ready for your garden shed.

This article is from an experienced journalist from www.TigerSheds.com.

Chris Hopkin is an experienced journalist who specializes in the field of garden care and outdoor structures. He is a key contributor to many online articles and blogs including offering in depth market advice and analysis on behalf of large retailers such as http://www.TigerSheds.com

Energy Saving tips to save money that you can start today!

So we have all heard about global warming and if you believe it or not changing to energy efficient appliances and following a few of these tips below will help the environment and reduce your electricity usage which means money saved. Have a good look over these tips, most you may already know and I’m sure a few you don’t or simply have forgotten.

Tip 1: Make sure to set your air conditioner to 24 degrees Celsius, this is said to be the optimum temperature for energy saving.

Tip 2: Make use of awnings and blinds to reduce sunlight penetrating the home in summer, heavy curtains also help reduce the amount of heat entering the home in summer and also help retain heat in winter. Another option is too get your windows tinted.

Tip 3: If your still suing an electric hot water system turn the thermostat down to 50 or 55 degree Celsius, its most likely on default at over 65 degree Celsius or perhaps higher from a previous owner of the house. This will also prevent scalding particularly if you have young children.

Tip 4: Make use of any government incentives for energy efficient lighting, or invest in CFL or LED lighting for inside and outside the home. Make use of outdoor lighting that operates via a sensor, this not only is good saving electricity it’s also great for security and safety. Lighting generates approximately 5% of your household greenhouse gas emissions.

Tip 5: Keep your light fittings clean, this will improve light output and help reduce heat build up extending the lights lifespan.

Tip 6: Make use of government incentives and rebates on water tanks, water saving showerheads and dual flush toilets, keep your showers around 4 minutes also.

Tip 7: Use only cold water in your washing machine and only wash full loads.

Tip 8: Install a grey water recycling system, what is does is collects the spent water from the shower, hand basins, washing machine and dishwasher which you can then reuse for water the garden and lawn etc.

Tip 9: Clean your air condition filtration regularly as per manufacturers guidelines.

Tip 10: IF you have a chimney, make sure you close the vent when it’s not in use, or use a chimney block as this will prevent hot air entering the home.

Tip 11: Turn of lights when you are finished in the room/ when leaving the room. Easy habit to get started.

Tip 12: Turn off appliances in standby and when you have finished using them. Standby appliances consume approximately 5-10% of your electricity bill.

Tip 13: Make use of government incentives and rebates for insulating your ceiling, walls and floors. An average home can lose up to 30% heat from the ceiling and 15-20% through walls and floors.

Tip 14: Use a gas cooktop as its generally cheaper to run then electricity and less harmful to the environment.

Tip 15: Use the kettle to boil water rather than a pot on the cooktop, and also only boil the amount of water needed, any more and its just wasting energy.

Tip 16: Keep your refrigerator and freezer clean and tidy inside and out ( frost build up), make sure there adequate space top, back and sides so it can expel excess heat. The rear of these appliances can become dusty, simply unplug the appliance and use a vacuum cleaner and a soft paintbrush if it makes it easy to clean away the dust. Make sure your refrigerator is set to 3-4 degree Celsius any less is wasting energy and damaging your produce and any more will spoil your food. Freezer should be set too -16 degree Celsius.

Tip 17: Use the sun to dry your clothes, if your living arrangement doesn’t permit a clothes line then spin dry your clothes as normal and try hang them up on a rack and finish them off with the clothes dryer. Clothes dryers generate approximately 3 kilograms of greenhouse gases per load.

Tip 18: Fix any plumbing leaks, a single dripping tap can waste up to 1000 litres per month, this will reduce excess water bills and if its hot water leaking reduce electricity also.

Tip 19: Only wash full loads in your dishwasher, keep your dishwashers filter clean as per manufacturers guidelines and if your house is using solar hot water make sure your dishwasher is using this instead of heating its own its own.

Tip 20: Put a timing function on your pool pump so it operates for the least amount of time possible and make sure you have it set onto the off peak electricity tariff.

Tip 21: When going away for a week end or even not using your central heating and cooling for an extended period turn it off at the outside isolator switch, a little known fact is these units can use around 150 watts of standby power.

Tip 22: Lastly invest in an energy monitor, you may be surprised at what is using power and how much its using, make use of the current incentives and rebates from government and local councils regarding this device. Install it in a high traffic area like the kitchen so everyone can visible see how much energy the house is currently using.

Thanks very much for looking over these tips and I do hope they help save you money and reduce greenhouse gas emissions. Also remember any electrical work should always be carried out by a skilled and licensed electrician, make sure you contact a domestic electrician for any electrical work around the home and a commercial electrician for electrical services in the workplace etc. If you have other amazing methods on saving energy I may have missed please post it below

Fraser

http://www.lynxelectrical.com.au

Skilled and Licensed Electrical Contractor with over 12 years experieince in commercial and domestic electrical services.

We mark the cuts for tiles that go against the walls at the edge of a counter or floor by transferring the distance directly from the counter or floor to the tile. This ensures that the cut piece will fit, even if the wall is not parallel. This method might seem a little confusing because you are reversing the tile to make the cut. To keep track of the tiles orientation, draw an arrow on the good part of the tile, so that it points towards the portion that is wasted. Now mark one edge of the tile by setting it between the wall and the last full field tile, with the arrow point away from the wall. Be sure to use a spacer between the piece that is to be cut and the tile already laid, so you’ll have an even grout line. To account for the grout joint, mark the work piece at the edge of the field tiles spacer.

Now slide the work piece over to the other side of the field tile and mark the other edge at the spacer the same as before. Connect the two marks with a pencil and you are ready to cut the tile. After you cut the tile flip it over and you will be left with a tile that perfectly fits the gap that it is to be placed in to. Remember to place the cut edge of the tile against the wall. Be sure and smooth the edges of the tile with a rubbing stone.

When square tiles are laid diagonally, instead of parallel to the wall surfaces, you’ll have to trim the tiles around the edges of your installation. The process is roughly the same as marking straight cuts, except that the adjacent sides of the work piece will be marked instead of the opposite sides.

If the tiles you’re working with are hard to mark with a pencil, apply masking tape along the edges. Set one spacer against the wall (to create room for the grout joint) and another against the field tile that’s already been set, to help you keep the work piece parallel to the laid tiles. Make a mark on the wall-facing side the set tile’s grout line. Now move the tile and both spacing clips to the opposite set tile and mark the other side of the cut. Draw a line to connect the two marks. Cut along the tile and you will have a perfectly cut tile.

Seamy Tennyson – to be the best bathroom suppliers Northern Ireland has to offer requires a lot of knowledge. It is this knowledge that I have drawn on for this article.

Be honest, I know we have all swung the door open too hard and put the knob through the wall. Maybe you punched it when your team lost or worse your wife put the remote controller through it when she was fed up with your sports. I have even seen a dog chew through drywall. Whatever the case may be, if you have one of these “excitement holes”, I’m going to tell you exactly how to repair your small hole in your drywall, the right way! OK, so your going to need some things.

Materials:
-Fiber glass Mesh Tape
-1 Bag of 20 Minute Mud
-Paint/Primer
-and a little water for the mud

Tools:
-6 inch Knife (preferably metal)
-A piece of 100-grit Sandpaper
-3in Paint Brush
-Small pail or bucket (for mixing mud)
-Respirator Mask(like the ones you see nurses use)
-You should easily be able to find all these items at your local hardware or anywhere like; Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, etc.

1) The first thing is to clean out the small hole. Just make sure there isn’t any loose debris in it. This way when the new mud attaches it attaches itself to the rest of the solid sheet and not loose brittle chunks.

2) Take your bucket and mix up a small batch of mud. Add water and mix it with your knife. This first batch needs to be thick(about the consistency of a very thick milkshake) . You make this first coat thicker so that it forms to where you spread it and doesn’t run out as soon as you spread it in.Clean your knife off (just on the side of the bucket will be fine) and scoop up some mud. Lay your knife on an angle and push the mud into the hole as your spread it down and across the hole. Make sure your coat of mud is flat with the rest of the wall and not protruding past. Let this dry now for about 1hr. DON’T PANIC!, it’s most likely going to crack and shrink as it dries. This is normal and don’t worry because you still have a finish coat to make it pretty.

3) After your first coat is dry, it is time to break out that fancy fiberglass mesh tape. It’s sticky so when your put it on it stays. Cover the hole completely and overlap the tape onto the good drywall about 2 inches. You may also use patch kits that come as one big square piece of fiberglass mesh which can be convenient, but if you buy the roll of it you’ll always have some around to fix any holes you might/will get in the future. Oh and by the way, you need to use this stuff. It is the only thing that is going to keep your patch from cracking and falling out.

4) Now it’s time to mix up your second batch of 20 minute mud. This time make your mud a little thinner. Add a little more water this time so the mud spreads easier and is smoother, about like peanut butter. Spread your next coat to fill in the low spots. Remember the cleaner you do this coat and less excess you leave the less sanding and cleaning you’ll have to do later. Smooth the mud over the tape and smooth it over.

5) Don’t be discouraged if this coat isn’t as nice as you want it. Let it dry an hour or two and sand it smooth. Hit it again. Use your knife to clean off excess and let it dry one more time.(Your third coat shouldn’t take very long to dry.) You can repeat this again if you so desire.

6) Now that your tired of waiting for mud to dry, time to get dusty. Here’s where you’ll be happy you have a respirator. Sand your patch smooth one last time.

7) ) Now your ready to prime and paint. REMEMBER, if you do not use primer you will always see your patch bleed through. If the existing paint isn’t too old and faded, you can probably get away with just painting over the patch with the same paint and it won’t stick out. You also don’t want to paint just a square over your patch because it will stick out and you will see it. You want to feather the new paint into the old existing paint. Lay your paint on thicker on your patched area and progressively thinner outward to the old paint.

Following these instructions will give you the best possible results. You can try to cut corners but will just have to redo your patch or have a place on the wall you’ll always be sure to stare at.

If your existing baseboard heating metal covers are showing their age from multiple coats of paint, rust or physical damage, it is possible for the DIY’er to replace them. Just not real easily. The back wall pieces seldom sustain any damage simply because they are out of harms way. The front covers and movable vents pieces however are often lost or the vent hinges are gone. Front covers get kicked or scraped and the paint deteriorates over time making them unsightly. Replacement piece for piece is often not possible as manufacturers change their designs just enough that new front covers will not fit on older models. New front covers also require replacement of the back panel as the vent piece and front cover mountings are different as well.

Using a screw gun, pry bar and a pair of good quality metal snips, removal of the old pieces is not too difficult. Not to say it is not a pain in the butt but wearing a pair of gloves to prevent cuts from the sheet metal is a great idea. The trick is to doing the removal and replacement without having to disconnect or damage the heat piping itself.

Start by removing the front cover and movable vent pieces. Next locate the mounting screws or nails the plumber used when he installed the original baseboard. Hopefully he used screws instead of ten penny spikes. I have seen baseboards actually nailed on with ten penny galvanized nails. Nails are much harder to remove but it can be done with a pry bar and hammer. It is suggested you wrap a towel around the aluminum heat fins as they are very sharp and can cut you quite badly. If you bend any of the fins while doing the work, there is a comb available that you can draw through the fins restoring their shape. Only a few bent ones can be straightened with a flat screwdriver.

After removing all the mounting screws or nails, you will have to wrestle the back plate out from behind the heat piping. No easy task for sure but by bending or twisting, you can usually pull it free. In the worst case scenario, use your metal snips to divide the backer plate into smaller sections and that should aid in removing it. Once everything is clear of the piping, clean the heating fins to remove all dirt and dust, once again being careful not to touch the fins with your bare hands.

In most older installations there is no reflective paper behind the backer plate. If your local hardware store does not sell reflective paper, you can use leftover foil from foil faced insulation. Cut the paper to just less than the size of the baseboard back plate and staple to the wall. You do not want the paper to show when the baseboard is complete. The foil paper will help reflect the heat into the room instead of absorbing it into the wall. Carefully slide the new backer plate down behind the heat piping. It will be a very tight fit. If there is a little slack in the holes where the piping passes through the floor that also helps you to move the piping a little and aid in letting you slide the new backer plate in place. With the new plate in place, slide the backer plate up until the flat pad mounts for the heat piping again slip around the square fins. Using the largest carpenters hand level that will fit on the baseboard, level the backer plate and make some pencil marks. Using your screw gun and some drywall screws, fasten the backer plate to the wall. Two or three screws per four foot section is sufficient. Do not go crazy.

With the backer plate in place, take a look to assure it is level to the eye. If you are satisfied, go ahead and install the new movable vent pieces, front and end covers. An average eight foot section of baseboard should take about an hour and a half to complete the replacement.

Pete Ackerson

http://www.Wagsys.com

Pete Ackerson is a 30+ year building inspector and construction superintendent with experience in both public and private construction industries. From schools to treatment plants, from private homes and condo projects, to large residential landscaping projects, he has worked both in the building design areas and field construction in the Eastern US. In 2006 he formed along with two other building inspectors, Wagsys LLC which produces software for municipal agencies in the fields of building departments, planning boards and Zoning Boards of Appeals.

For optimum results, sow your seeds indoors approximately 6 weeks before your last frost date. This allows plants to get a healthy start by developing a strong root system, a sturdy stalk, and plenty of foliage before it must contend with a world of unpredictable spring weather and garden pests.

For starting tomatoes indoors, you will need planting trays, shelving, indoor lighting, a good starting soil, and a fan. The step-by-step guide below covers the essential steps of how to plant tomato seeds:

Set up shelving and lights
You will need a shelf that you can hang a lighting system from, and a means to adjust the height of the lights as your plants grow. A good, economical way to do this is with a set of shop lights, fitted with cool white fluorescent bulbs.

Plant Seeds in a Good Starting Medium
An easy way to begin is to use a seed starting kit that contains a nursery tray with plastic inserts or peat pellets. Peat pellets are an easy way to begin as you simply add water to expand the pellet and insert the seed.

If using a traditional nursery tray, simply fill each cell with an appropriate starter mix and plant the seeds at a depth of approximately ¼ of an inch. Look for a medium that is specifically designed for starting plants from seed. These mixes are generally considered to be “sterile”, meaning they do not contain the micro organisms found in traditional soil which can quickly damage tender seedlings.

Provide Bottom Heat During Germination
A key step in how to plant tomato seeds is to provide bottom heat during the germination process. Seedling heat mats are an excellent way to warm soil heat and promote quick sprouting.

Mats are widely available through hardware stores and local nurseries. Although germination can be accomplished by setting your trays on other warm surfaces, such as household appliances, the combination of a seedling mat and bright lights above is a highly reliable method.

Finally, cover your trays with plastic domes (which are often provided with the kit). This helps retain heat and moisture during the germination process.

Once a few of your plants begin surfacing, immediately remove the bottom heat. Do not wait for all plants to surface as continued heat can cause plants to grow rapidly, giving them a tall, “leggy” stature.

Provide Constant Air Circulation
Using a fan to circulate air across plants prevents a process called “damping off” which can quickly and unexpectedly kill seedlings. Damping off is caused by a number of things, including fungus and soil line rot caused by excessive dampness. However, using a fan is generally effective in preventing this. Use of a fan also strengthens plant stalks so they will be less vulnerable to unexpected gusts of wind when transplanted in the garden.

Keep in mind that once plants have developed the first 2 or 3 sets of leaves, they will need to move from the starter seed mix medium to a more nutrient-rich medium. Transplant them into slightly larger containers and keep under the lights for 2 to 3 more weeks. Be sure to use a good potting soil rather than soil to avoid problems. Potting mix is widely available in both organic and non-organic types.

When it comes time for planting tomatoes in the garden, be sure to acclimate your plants to the outdoors by setting them out for small, increasing periods of time each day over the period of 4-7 days.

For more information on how to plant tomato seeds, visit Brett’s tomato gardening articles at http://www.easybackyardgardening.com/Backyard-Gardening-Site-Map.html

Brett Ashlee is a garden enthusiast who offers home garden information and backyard gardening tips, including information on small space gardens, greenhouses, and easy-to-grow vegetables at http://www.easybackyardgardening.com.

Space at home is never enough and the need for extra storage space is every increasing. Many of us are unable to afford a renovation project to increase storage, but luckily, there is a plethora of methods in which much more storage space can be created.

Here are 7 storage tips to create more space at home:

1. Utilising storage containers

Through the usage of storage containers, one can greatly increase the storage space. Get containers that are specifically designed for storage at a certain place, for example under the bed. Those are usually transparent containers that allows you to see what exactly are in them and are slim enough to fit under the below of a bed.

2. Purchasing a wardrobe with many shelves

With the help of a wardrobe with lots of storage shelves, items can be segregated and stored easily. There will always be a place for something and things are much more organized.

3. Use the wall

The entire house is surrounded by walls so why not fully utilize it? Walls offer a myriad of opportunities to allow you to store virtually anything and everything, from photos to books, to papers, magazines etc. Add on an attractive shelve or DIY them, and you will be able to store anything you like.

4. Corners

The corners of the rooms are the ones that are always neglected, but they give the most potential to add more precious storage space to your already limited capability. You can always add a shelving unit at a corner and you can then store your accessories such as watch, wallet, keys and cosmetics.

5. All the way up

Extend your cabinets from the floor all the way up to the ceiling and you can gain much valuable space. Many cabinets stop 5 inches below the ceiling and lose the chance to store so much more items.

6. Vacuum bags

Vacuum bags are simply god sent! You can store a king sized comforters in just an inch-square space! If you have lots of bulky fabric items for storage, you need this. Bulky items such as blankets, comforters, jackets take up lots of space and by using a vacuum bag; you can save much more precious space and still protect it from water and dust.

7. Changing to a new bed

A bed takes up quite a fair bit of space in the bedroom. Consider getting a bed with a storage compartment at the bottom. It can be used to store items such as your blankets, comforters, pillows and bolsters and you will be able to free up space in your cabinets.

Running out of space at home? We introduce you Big Orange where professional storage tips and moving services will be offered to maximize your storage space.

I will never forget something said to me as a young apprentice carpenter; “You just have to be smarter than the wood”. Simply put, know the characteristics of the wood and know how to use that information to make it into a shape or form you want it. Can you weld wood together with a welder, of course not, but you can glue it together. Can you bend a board, yes, up to a point. What is that point before it breaks or are there some techniques you can use to change the breaking point? Are some woods easier to work with than others? Do some woods mold, plane, cut or sand better than other woods? Is there a science to all these questions, yes, but it is more of a skill or feel developed over time. Only experience and the wood will teach you some things, but I can show you a few tricks and techniques that will help you understand the principles of putting in crown moulding.

If you have never installed crown mold before, you may think to yourself it does not sound so difficult. Truth is, it is not rocket science, but is confusing. Let’s get into the typical crown job. Though I can not cover every situation, this article will give you enough information to do the job competently. Just remember to take your time and take it a step at a time.

1. Let’s make some decisions for the size of the molding, finish, how many feet do you need and which tools are needed to complete the task. With the width of the molding, I found a good rule of thumb is to go with 1/2″ in width for every foot of ceiling height, in other words for an 8 foot ceiling height I would recommend a 4 inch wide molding. There is no right or wrong here, but if you go with too narrow of a molding, it will look skinny and out of scale with the room.
2. Do you intend to stain or paint the molding. In either case, apply 2 coats to the molding before installing, with the last coat applied after installation.
3. Measure the linear footage of the room you intend to put crown into and add another ten percent for waste and practice.
4. Concerning tools needed, you will need a miter saw with a fine tooth saw blade, safety glasses, coping saw, work bench, wood file, wood glue, compressor with a finish nail gun and brad gun, 2 1/2″ nails and some 1″ brad nails, nail set, and caulking gun. NOTE: You can use 8 penny and 4 penny nails and drive them in and then set them with a nail punch, but to get the piece of molding to set still while you are banging a nail in is challenging.
5. Let’s talk about the most crucial factor to making tight joints, the pitch of the molding as it is cut and installed. Maintain the same pitch when cutting and installing. So how is the pitch determined? Determine this by the degree of the bevel on the bottom, back side of the molding. The bottom bevel is usually around 52 degrees, but that will vary with different manufactures. To determine the pitch on the saw, cut a 14″ piece off the end of the crown. Take that piece and place it upside down on the miter saw. Now, adjust the pitch of the crown on the saw so that the bevel on the back side of the molding fits perfectly against the saw fence. While holding the crown in place, put a pencil mark across the top of the crown on the fence.
6. Measure the distance from the table surface of the saw to the pencil mark you made on the fence. Make a gauge block that length. The measurement you take will represent the distance down the wall from the ceiling and the mark on the saw will represent the top edge of the crown. Now you will be able to establish the pitch to cut each piece. Take the gauge block and put it up against the ceiling and mark the bottom of the block on the wall in each corner and every 6 feet in between. This is a reference mark for the bottom edge of the crown when you install a piece. Crown mold stops are handy to hold the crown at the proper pitch while you are sawing. If you don’t have this feature on your saw, you can clamp or screw a block of wood to the saw to help you hold the crown to the proper pitch you established on the fence.
7. Now your ready to measure. Each time you measure, you will measure wall to wall, not wall to molding or molding to molding. Take your time here and measure twice. Make sure to measure at the ceiling. Measurements will vary some from the top to the bottom of a given wall, so always take your measurement at the top of the wall. Add a sixteenth of an inch to the measurement to insure a tight fit. Now let’s talk a little about the terms; long point and short point. These terms refer to the point from which you measuring on a given angle. Let’s say you are measuring from an inside corner miter to an outside corner miter. You will be measuring from long point to short point on the piece of trim. Typically, most corners you will be working with are square or close to square. A true square corner is 90 degrees, to make a perfect miter you take the degree of a given corner and divide by 2. So half of 90 degrees is 45 degrees. Now this will vary from corner to corner because of mistakes made by the framing carpenter or a build-up of drywall compound on the corners of your wall. Because most corners are not truly square, a cope joint is used, discussed in step 12.
8. You are ready to make our first cut. Here comes the confusing part, place the crown upside down on the saw. What is the top of the crown as it is installed, is now at the pointed down and the bottom of the crown is now pointing up. What is the left side is now pointing right. Picture it this way, the horizontal surface of the saw will represent the ceiling and the vertical fence represents the wall. To help avoid confusion, picture the saw mounted to the ceiling. Take a couple of scrap pieces and practice.There are 5 typical types of cuts you will need to perform.
9. The first is the simplest, which a square or straight cut, used where you are butting into an inside corner where no molding is on the oncoming wall.
10. The next is an inside corner miter, which is a miter that is sloping in towards the work piece.
11. The next is an outside corner, which is sloping away from the work piece. I recommended to cut the miter at 45 1/2 degrees, to assure the miter fits tightly at the face of the molding.
12. The coped joint is next and is used on inside corners. Cut the face of the molding profile to fit the face of the piece of molding installed in the corner of an oncoming wall. Make sure to measure for length before you begin coping. You do this by using a coping saw. Begin sawing along the face’s edge at the end of an inside miter cut. Take your coping saw and cut along the outline of the face of the molding made by the miter cut. Be careful to slope back under the face cut, so that only the front of the molding will touch as it is butted into the piece in the corner. Take a scrap piece of crown and hold it against the cope to see that only the front of the molding is touching the scrap piece. Sometimes it is necessary to adjust the back cut to make the proper fit. Do this with a wood file or a little more cutting with a coping saw.
13. The last type of cut to discuss is a scarf joint, used when splicing 2 or more pieces together to achieve a desired length. To do this, place the back of the molding flat against the fence of the saw and make a 22 1/2 degree bevel cut on the spliced ends. This gives you a little more surface area to glue when put together. This particular type of cut, the crown is not on a pitch when cutting. NOTE: When installing scarf joints, take your time and match the pieces as much as possible before putting a nail in. Don’t forget to glue the joint and you may need to do some sanding to make the joint appear seamless.
14. Now you are ready to nail the piece in place. Typically a wall will have over 2″ of top plate exposed, under the drywall to nail into, across the entire length of the wall. When using a wide crown, it is necessary to find the studs to nail into. If working by yourself, drive a nail in halfway at the reference mark, you made earlier, in the corner opposite the end you will be fitting. The nail will serve as a way to hold the other end as you focus your attention on the joint.
15. Now place the end opposite the joint on the nail and then bow the middle of the piece out with one hand while you use the other hand to carefully align the joint together. Align the bottom edges, release the bowed portion held in the other hand.
16. You may notice the joint is open in either the top or bottom. Don’t panic, just simply adjust the roll or pitch of the 2 pieces by tapping with a hammer and block of wood, either up or down. If it is open at the bottom, put your block of wood to the top of the piece you are joining to and lightly tap the block with your hammer until the joint closes. If the joint is open at the top, you will need to put the block under both the pieces and drive the pieces upward until the joint closes. Never adjust the miter cut to fit. If you held your pitch correctly, while sawing, you will be able to trust the cut.
17. When nailing, develop the habit of pushing in with one hand while shooting a nail in with the other hand. NOTE: Always keep your free hand a safe distance from area you are nailing. Once you have your joint fit and fastened in place, go to the other end and nail the crown about 16″ from the end once you have properly adjusted the pitch of the crown, using the reference mark to align the bottom edge of the molding. Do not nail too close to the corners to allow for adjustments when fitting the next piece. Finish nailing the piece every 16″, being careful to adjust the pitch as needed. Make sure the piece is firmly against the wall and ceiling as you nail.
18. After all the crown molding has been installed, you will need to fill all the holes with putty and sand. Now your ready to caulk the edge under and above the crown molding. This is an art form unto itself. Just remember to keep the caulk gun moving while applying steady pressure on the trigger. Don’t squeeze out too much, just enough to fill the crack. You can always go back and add more. Take a damp rag and wipe off the excess caulking before you move your ladder.

The final thoughts I will leave with you are; be careful, be methodical, be determined, and be a little smarter than the wood or the tool you are working with. Follow these steps and you will be able to enjoy a job well done for many years to come.

This tutorial was brought to you by Jeff D. Millsaps, a master craftsman with over 35 years experience in moldings and millwork. You are welcome to visit Jeff at his website at http://www.overthetopdoortrim.com to see other ways of adding elegance to your home or business.