Henri Loves Paris...

Café de Flore~

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Sun, 27 Jan 2013 06:07:00 +0000

Fashionable and popular...

These two words perfectly describe this famous and historic landmark located on the corner of boulevard St. Germain and Rue St. Benoit.

Arriving at mid afternoon with my friend, we were able to squeeze into one of the tables on the covered sidewalk area. This outdoor space is usually always full with an intellectual crowd or attractive Europeans who love to sit and lounge away the afternoon over a glass of champagne. We placed our order with the waiter who was civil, but not overly friendly. (This place has a reputation that precedes it if you read any of the guidebooks written about Paris.) I absolutely adored the table setting and had to take a photo...such a classy way to dine~

I hope if you are in Paris you will stop by the Flore and see what all the fuss is about. I will leave you with a link to read about all the famous people who have graced the tables at this Art Deco inspired resto.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Café_de_Flore

A bientôt,
Henri

A visit to Angelina

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Wed, 23 Jan 2013 05:04:00 +0000

After several trips to Paris, there was one stop that I as determined to make last November.

I have read countless guidesbooks about Paris and each one would describe the famous and delectable:

Angelina

On this particular trip, I was staying a few short blocks from Angelina on Rue St. Roch...it was an easy walk to the venerable tea room located on Rue de Rivoli.

Angelina is famous for being the "place where ladies lunch."

It is equally famous for its chocolate chaud, rumored to be the BEST IN PARIS!

Upon arrival, you will probably notice that there are a number of people ordering and eating these strange looking balls of meringue covered in strings of chestnut puree...very famous here.

Name: The Mont Blanc.

Using my better judgement I split one with my companion as this these are seriously beyond sweet.

Each Mont Blanc is about the size of a hardball; but they are not hard at all!

I think I have heard that calories don't count on vacation...I still cling to that belief!

Beautifully displayed gift boxes are arranged to tempt anyone who passes by.

Bottles of chocolate chaud can be purchased on a take out basis...they really make it difficult to walk away empty handed. What a fabulous gift for a friend or better yet for yourself!

Sweet chocolate dreams~

Love,
Henri

Repetition

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Tue, 22 Jan 2013 04:34:00 +0000

The Madeleine

This shot of The Madeleine was taken from the very top of La Grande Roue, which is located on the edge of The Tuileries Garden. If you can handle sitting in a small enclosure and lightly swaying back and forth as you reach the highest point of the wheel, you will get a grand view of Paris!

By the way, I have been experimenting with other forms of "social networking" and this blog has been a bit neglected since August. I have found that my FB page: Henri Loves Paris has been an easier format to access and I have had some rewarding success there, as well as posting my photos from Paris on Twitter. Recently I have been contacted to join a photo sharing group that has some nice "street cred." I can't express how rewarding it is to be recognized by my peers. I hope that I will be able to continue to develop this blog, my FB page, and Twitter in a way that will be of interest to those out there who have a love of Paris or travel in general

Thanks for following along and being a part of the my adventures in Paris!

Love,

Henri

Counting Eiffels...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Fri, 24 Aug 2012 20:08:00 +0000

One day as I was making my way around Paris, I began to notice all the different views and interpretations of the Eiffel Tower...the following shots are a few of my favorites:

Artistic license and color highlight the supports on the building that houses Fat Tire Bikes.

Fun, whimsical and delightful expressions of "The Iron Lady"...j'adore all the color and contrast!

The Eiffel Tower looms over this building...this may be one of my favorite shots!

A sparkly gold Eiffel decorates this shop door!

The base of the Eiffel where the people seem as busy as ants!

And of course, here is THE REAL DEAL...as seen from the dinner cruise ship Bateaux Parisiens!

(That is me with the blonde hair and my bestie, Cheryl. We are hopeless when it comes to Paris!)

I hope you enjoy spying the Eiffel Tower as much as me!

Love,
Henri

Garden of Musee Carnavalet...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Thu, 23 Aug 2012 03:47:00 +0000

Located in the Marias a short stroll from Place des Voges, Musee Carnavalet is devoted to the history of Paris. Hôtel Carnavalet has a rich and storied history, built as a town home in the year 1548. Eventually it would become the home of the French writer Madame Sévigné (known for her letter writing). At a much later date it was joined with the neighboring 17th century mansion Hôtel Le Peletier in order to bring the history of Paris to life.

This is the side entrance of the museum located on Rue de Sévigné.

The garden is meticulously maintained throughout the year. It is a visual bonanza!

Here you can see the delicate rose trees blooming along the passage between the two mansions. It is easy to feel like royalty when visiting the grounds of this garden.

The boxwood hedges are trimmed with precision.

Vines are growing profusely on the sides of the mansion, draping the old cut stone facade. There is a feeling of lush comfort amongst the heavy design elements of walls and passage.

This statue, The Court of Victory, is the centerpiece of the garden. The commanding lead statue was created by the artist Louis Simon Boizot. Originally it was designed for the fountain at place du Chatelet.

I never miss an opportunity to visit this garden when I am in Paris...it is a quick, visual blast of beauty. Additionally, I highly recommend a visit inside. These hôtels offer a fascinating journey back in time...a great opportunity to see how the upper class lived in a grand setting. Interior highlights include the Charles Le Brun Ceiling, the Madame Sévigné gallery, Hôtel d' Uzès Reception room, and the ballroom of the Hôtel de Wendel.

A bientôt,
Henri

A visit to Giverny...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Wed, 25 Jul 2012 07:31:00 +0000

Near the town of Vernon, 50 miles west of Paris, lies the "spiritual home of impressionism"...Giverny.
In the year 1883, Claude Monet and his wife, Alice, moved their combined family to a farmhouse where he would develop his famous gardens, paint, and live happily for the next 40 years.

A few of the buildings along rue Claude Monet

Monet became the leader of the Impressionist movement which revolutionized the art world beginning in the 1870s. Monet would team up with fellow artists/friends Auguste Renoir and Alfred Sisley and together these men would venture out painting in the open air throughout the countryside (this had not been done before). Inspired by the realism of Edouard Manet, their favorite subjects were the everyday things in life...landscapes, street scenes, families...all done in bright, brilliant color.

Above is the walled garden (Clos Normand). Monet designed symmetrical beds covered with iron trellises of climbing roses. His style was a controlled riot of lilies, irises, hollyhocks, daisies, and poppies with an overall color scheme in each bed. A "grand alley" cuts down the center of the garden.

At the far corner of the walled garden, there is this pedestrian tunnel that leads to the lushly overgrown Japanese water garden.

As you follow the path, you will arrive at the famous green Japanese bridge and see Monet's little boat moored in the water.

Once there, you will immediately recognize this area that he reproduced so many times in his paintings. Assisted by his favorite step daughter (also an artist who later married his son from his first marriage) Monet would paint the garden from every angle, in all different types of weather, and at different times of the day. He would work on several canvases at once, moving from canvas to canvas tracking the movement of the sun.

If you look closely, you can see the little green bridge at the far end of the photo.

Up close and personal with a flower...

The rose colored, green shuttered farmhouse that was home to Claude Monet.

It fascinates me as I contemplate the degree of dedication that Monet had for his art...especially after reading a few of his quotes that I will share now.

Color: "Color is my day long obsession, joy, and torment."

Criticism: "Lots of people will protest that it is quite unreal and that I am out of my mind but that's just too bad."

Difficulty: "It's enough to drive you crazy trying to depict weather, the atmosphere, the ambiance..."

Effort: "I hope that something good will come out of so much effort."

Well...thank you for all the effort Claude Monet...

Henri

Story of A Cuban girl in Paris...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Wed, 11 Jul 2012 20:34:00 +0000

The reading list continues: Paris Was Ours...

I picked up Paris Was Ours because I thought it would be a nice easy read and a sampler of 32 different short stories about Paris from 32 different perspectives. Interestingly enough, one of the short stories was written by a Cuban girl who manages to leave Cuba and Communism behind for Paris...

The Tribulations of a Cuban Girl in Paris

Zoé Valdés leaves Cuba as a naive 23 year old newly wed who is married to a government functionary. She boards a plane for the first time in her life and is in route to Paris, a place that has always held a great fascination for her as a young girl. "My Grandmother never stopped telling us that babies came from Paris, wrapped in a diaper and brought by a a stork. That meant that I - in my fantastical mind - was making a journey back home."

This is the capital of Cuba in Havana

Most of us who visit Paris are free to roam the city with some disposable income and take in the sights, food, and culture with total abandon. Zoé arrives and she is being shadowed by Communist comrades who watch her every move and report any questionable activity. She has been brainwashed by the Communist regime in Cuba and imagines seeing "the enemy" everywhere (everyone is considered an enemy unless they are a Cuban revolutionary). She begins to acclimate to the idea of freedom and capitalism. "As I gained more freedom, other things began to draw my attention. First money. I discovered that in order to have all the things I liked - books, records, that sort of thing - I first had to

learn to respect money. Before it hadn't mattered to me, or I had actively disliked it. One afternoon I went to rent Le grand Meaulnes in its old version and the clerk asked me if I'd let him take nude photos of me for his customers. I said OK. Later I modeled for painters, among them one very famous Monsieur B."

Plaza San Francisco, located in Havana Viejo

This is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site

Old Havana has been stabilized, re-built, and maintained. This area is picturesque and it is a pleasure to stroll the street and view the exceptional colonial architecture. At one time Cuba was the number four sugar producer in the world and it was a bustling port that would serve as a base for ships that were eventually going to their final destination in Europe. Money flowed freely prior to the revolution and the island architecture could rival most cities in Europe if it were restored.

This is characteristic of a typical neighborhood in Old Havana.

In the beginning Zoe suffers a health crisis because she was so under weight from the improper diet she ate in Cuba. Upon arriving in Paris, she promptly faints 2 times and is taken to a physician for medical care. "I weighed 98 pounds and had full-blown anemia, and when I told the doctor the circumstances under which I had lost consciousness the second time, he said that instead of smelling the chicken, what I should have done is buy some and eat it." Little did he know that the last time she had eaten chicken was at the age of 10 and she had never tasted it again...it was no wonder that the smell of all the roasting chickens in the street had caused such a dramatic reaction!

This is a closer look at buildings in Old Havana. Although this building looks abandoned, people actually live here. A professor from the university in Havana gave a lecture for our group and reported that 3 buildings are crumbling to the ground every day. There is a need to relocate the families once a home falls down.

This is a newer construction in Havana.

There are multiple generations of families that share a room in these buildings. Most people can not afford to move out away from their parents once married. It helps when the generations live together because they can combine their ration cards at their designated store where they purchase food. The average salary of a worker is usually between $10 and $25 per month. If there is any money left over after the utilities are paid, it usually goes toward buying some extra food.

Old cars on the Paseo del Prado. Many of these old cars are used as taxis.

As Zoe continued the new adventure of her life in Paris she had some difficult decisions to make in the future..."I loved Paris with all my heart. But I had to get a divorce and flee the city I loved best for that other one, which I also loved very, very much, though with increasing reticence. I returned to Havana. I couldn't imagine that I'd be going back to Paris six years later married to a Cuban filmmaker, with our year-and-a-half-old daughter (what I had to do to take her with us!), on a three month visa. I knew that that departure would be our last...I sensed it."

I finally found a little bit of Paris in Cuba!

"I breathed the winter air of Paris and felt that I'd been reborn."

Upon her return to Paris, she published her second book and at that point, she was told that she could never return to Cuba. After hours of interrogation by the French police, she patiently awaited word on French citizenship.

She did receive Spanish citizenship and finally was given citizenship in France as well.

Zoe now lives in Paris with her daughter.

"What do I love most about this city? Its passion for art, its resistance to anything that's happening to us in the present, when the discourse is increasingly political and/or religious. Paris resists, with its art exhibits, its editions, its bookstores, its museums, its designers, its artists, its writers. Paris resists in art, no doubt about it." ...... "What I am interested in is the cultural life of the city...its theaters, its movie houses. That's why I stayed here; that's why I decided to create and make a life for myself in Paris. That's why I had to give birth to Paris...a difficult childbirth, no question; but, in the end, the child has brought exceptional love into my life."

Well said Zoe!

Love,
Henri

Finally, A Moveable Feast...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Mon, 09 Jul 2012 18:59:00 +0000

For me, Paris is truly the gift that just keeps giving! I had wanted to connect Paris and Cuba as a little summer blogging project and it has opened up another dimension of Paris, Cuba, literature, culture, and understanding. I have just finished reading A Moveable Feast that Hemingway wrote 30 years after he left Paris. Much of this book was written from his home in Cuba with the the use of notes that he had taken while living in Paris. Hemingway's Paris is as vivid "a feast" in his book descriptions of the past as it is today.

The front door to the apartment that Hemingway shared with his first wife, Hadley. This is located a few steps up from the hotel where I spend time in Paris, Hotel Grandes Des Ecoles, in the Latin Quarter.

I knew I would be hooked by A Moveable Feast from the first page, as Hemingway describes the weather, "We would have shut the windows in the night against the rain and the cold wind would strip the leaves from the trees in the Place Contrescarpe." Place Contrescarpe is where I will usually head for my first cup of cafe creme in the morning. I can image Hemingway making this same walk as I do to locate a cozy place for the first cup of the morning.

Shakespeare and Company was founded by Sylvia Beach, an American ex-pat living in Paris.

The original Shakespeare and Company was located at 12 rue de l'Odéon. Originally it was a place to buy and rent books. Shakespeare and Company is usually on every one's list to visit when arriving in Paris (as it should be)...

Very quickly Hemingway speaks of Sylvia Beach, "Sylvia had a lively, sharply sculptured face, brown eyes that were as alive as a small animal's and as gay as a young girl's, and wavy brown hair that was brushed back from her fine forehead and cut thick below her ears and at the line of the collar of the brown velvet jacket she wore. She had pretty legs and she was kind, cheerful and interested, and loved to make jokes and gossip. No one that I ever knew was nicer to me."

Sylvia got very high marks from Hemingway in his book...others didn't fare as well...

Luxembourg Gardens

Hemingway eventually moved from Cardinal Lemoine to rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs . He would often walk by Luxembourg Gardens, as it was a natural pathway to Shakespeare and Company or Gertrude Stein's apartment. This location was also a great diversion when he was to broke to afford lunch...

"You got very hungry when you did not eat enough in Paris because all the bakery shops had such good things in the windows and people ate outside at the tables on the sidewalk so that you saw and smelled the food. When you had given up journalism and were writing nothing that anyone in America would buy, explaining at home that you were lunching out with someone, the best place to go was the Luxembourg Gardens where you saw and smelled nothing to eat all the way from the Place de l'Observatoire to the rue de Vaugirard."

Fountain de la place St. Sulpice

He continues..."After you came out of the Luxembourg you could walk down the narrow rue Férou to the Place St. Sulpice and there were still no restaurants, only the quiet square with its benches and trees. There was the fountain with the lions, and pigeons walked on the pavement and perched on the statues of the bishops."

As the book progresses, it gave me glimpses into the lives of the other famous ex-pat writers of the day, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ezra Pound, and Gertrude Stein. From the character sketches that Hemingway develops, it becomes a priority for me to dig a little deeper into their lives as well.

As I contemplate the timeline of Hemingway's life, this book seems to be a haunting reflection of what was and what was to unfold. There was a tone of a life that was lived well and perhaps along the way, a sweet innocence that was lost. In closing, there was a melancholy sadness for me reading the last line..."But this is how Paris was in the early days when we were very poor and very happy."

Love,
Henri

Hemingway's Paris intersects with Cuba....

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Tue, 26 Jun 2012 01:55:00 +0000

I have just returned from an 8 day educational visit in Cuba. With the U.S. trade embargo in place,there hasn't been any relationship with Cuba for the past 50 years. American citizens can only get a visa to visit the island for educational or humanitarian affairs. It was hard for me to imagine what to expect when we would arrive at a place that has been off limits to most Americans for so many years.

Front elevation of Finca La Vigía, a late 19th century colonial estate in the suburb of San Francisco de Paula.

Our trip was a tightly controlled visit with a group from the University of Wisconsin Alumni Association. The days were planned with lectures, sight seeing, and pre-arranged meetings at museums, school houses, hospitals, convents, and places of interest. We were on the move from morning until night and it was unfortunate that there was little opportunity to venture out on my own. I knew in advance that we would be visiting the Hemingway home, Finca La Vigía, about 13 kilometers outside Habana Vieja (Old Havana). I have to confess that I have not read Hemingway and I don't know much about him; however, I have been intrigued by the time he spent in Paris. The book, A Moveable Feast is his memoir of the time he spent in Paris from 1921 to 1926.

Hemingway's living room, which remains as he left it (as well as all the other rooms in the home).

I was surprised to learn that A Moveable Feast was not written during the time that Hemingway was living in Paris...I had always just assumed that it was. Actually, it is quite by accident that the book was even written! In 1956, Hemingway and his friend/biographer, A.E. Hotchner, were having lunch at the Ritz in Paris with Charles Ritz, the hotel's chairman. Charley asked Ernest if he was aware that a trunk of his was in storage in the basement there at the Ritz and it had been there since 1930. Ernest did not remember leaving the trunk in storage; but, he did recall that Louis Vuitton had made a special trunk for him and he seemed to have misplaced it during his travels.

Hemingway's bedroom and on the top of the shelf, his typewriter. He would do most of his typing in the bedroom, standing up.

Charley had the trunk brought up from the basement to his office after lunch. When Ernest opened it, he found it filled with clothes, menus, racing forms, receipts, and at the bottom, 2 stacks of lined notebooks, like the ones that Parisian schoolchildren used in the 1920s. Ernest reacted was a jubilant, "The notebooks! So that's where they were! Enfin!" Ernest had carefully filled these books with his personal accounts, observations, stories, and experiences of Paris while "sitting in a cafe, slowing nursing a café crème."

Hemingway's bedroom office. The walls are lined with books, approximately 8000 throughout the house.

Once Hemingway returned to Cuba in the autumn of 1957, he began writing the Parisian memoir, A Moveable Feast. He continued to work on the book off and on whilst in Ketchum, Idaho, Spain, and then back in Cuba. In 1959, as A.E. Hotchner was leaving Cuba to head back to New York, Ernest gave him a manuscript to take back to Scribner in New York. On the flight back, A.E. read what was essentially and eventually published.

Hemingway's office in the main section of the home.

Sadly, the book was not published during Hemingway's lifetime. He died of a self inflicted gunshot wound to the head on July 2, 1961. His 4th wife, Mary Hemingway did some additional revisions to the manuscript; but, for the most part, the book remained as Ernest Hemingway had intended for publication. The title had yet to be chosen and Mary asked A.E. to help her with a title, as she did not like the one that Scribner was suggesting. A.E. had written down a little musing that he remembered Ernest saying...cobbling together the phrase as best he could..."If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast." Finally, three years after his death, A Moveable Feast was published in 1964.

A tower that Ernest Hemingway built on the property. The first floor was where he stored his fishing gear. The second floor of the tower housed his six-toed cats, and the third floor was built as a writing sanctuary; however, he felt isolated in the 3rd floor space and rarely used it.

In 2009, Seán Hemingway, Hemingway's grandson, published "his" version of A Moveable Feast. In this most recent book, called the "Restored Edition," Sean has re-arranged some of the chapters and added additional chapters that were left out of the original. The new revision has been criticized by A.E. Hotchner, as well as others in the literary world..."Irene Gammel writes about the new edition: "Ethically and pragmatically, restoring an author's original intent is a slippery slope when the published text has stood the test of time and when edits have been approved by authors or their legal representatives.""

A gorgeous view overlooking Havana from the back terrace of Finca La Vigia.

Today I bought the original version of A Moveable Feast and I plan to start reading it this evening. As I opened the book to the first page, I immediately recognized a favorite haunt of my own...Place Contrescarpe, where I often go to nurse my own café creàm.

A single, delicate red bloom amid the lush landscape of trees...a ray of sun streaming through the branches at Finca La Vigía.

"There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other. We always returned to it no matter who we were or how it was changed or with what difficulties, or ease, it could be reached. Paris was always worth it and you received return for what ever you brought to it."

Ernest Hemingway

A bientôt,
Henri

Are you kidding me Apple?

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Sat, 09 Jun 2012 13:49:00 +0000

One of the reasons I got a new Apple computer was my anticipation of using it for my blog about Paris. This was the first trip to Paris with the new Mac Air in tow.

I have to say that once I started using the Mac, I never looked back!

This little vignette seemed to be staged to perfection...the black motorcycle perfectly placed beneath the arched, iron window and all color coordinated in black and white. Steve Jobs would be proud!

The transition to the Mac has been relatively painless and I have enjoyed learning all the cool tricks that this computer has to offer...and there are sooooo many tricks!

I am amazed every time I go for training...just a quick shift here and there and this computer will create something that is life altering!

Anyway, one day my Mac just quit working while in I was in Paris and I had to get immediate assistance, so off the to Apple store I go.

There are several Apple stores in Paris; but, I decided that the store nearest the Garnier Opera would be most convenient. My first impression as I walked toward the store was WOW! This isn't like any Apple store I have ever been to in the States, usually located in an indoor mall. This was OPULENCE!

I couldn't believe the gorgeousness (is that a word?) of this space! The heavy, ornate black iron doors and windows, the massive columns, the grand, elegantly detailed ceiling, and the curving iron staircase...TROP BELLE!

This place was large and cavernous...there were lots of people inside (as always in an Apple store); but, it wasn't crowded or loud. This was definitely civilized!

Once inside...I was able to convince a very kind Apple techie that I needed to get my computer back up and running, ASAP. He was kind enough to arrange to "work me in" if I could just sit and wait. No Problem! After a less than expected wait, my Mac was checked out and it seems that there was no problem at all, I just needed to upload my Apple updates...I am bad about that. Now with my issue resolved, I was off again to hit the streets of Paris!

Bisous,
Henri

P.S. Don't forget to upload your updates!;)

Feeling like I'm home in Montmartre...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Fri, 08 Jun 2012 14:50:00 +0000

I have decided after several lengthy trips to Paris that it is simply MY PLACE.

Really, I love everything about Paris.

Each time I return to Paris, I seem to be trying to find a spot that feels like home.

On my last trip in April...I may have found it!

This is my metro stop Lamark/Caulaincourt.

It is a little like serendipity when I think about how previous visits to Sacre Coeur had already laid the groundwork for what the future would hold.

Little Chez Ginette sits at the left of the stairs that I would climb once I exited the metro.

I distinctly remember on earlier cab rides to Sacre Coeur, the driver would always take rue Caulaincourt in route to the church. This area fascinated me...beautiful trees lining the street, an air of calm and beauty with a more personal feel. I always wanted to linger a bit and get a better feeling for the area.

Avenue Junot was the location of the apartment that I rented for 8 days.

Never in my dreams would I imagine that one day I would spend time "living" in this charming neighborhood. I was fortunate to meet Gail with Perfectly Paris on Facebook and I noticed that she specialized in apartment rentals in Montmartre. Perusing her listings, I decided to rent one of her apartments, a spacious one bedroom, Junot Gem. The location and amenities were perfect because I felt like when I returned from my daily excursions, I would arrive at a spacious (for Parisian standards) nest to relax and recharge.

This is the grand facade where I would enter to reach my apartment....what a pleasure to access such a lovely address. Passing through this building, I would make my way to an outside courtyard and enter a second building where the Junot Gem was located. This is quite ideal because the outer building serves as a barrier to noise...never hearing the blast of the emergency vehicles or the crashing of the trash receptacles that can become a bit annoying when trying to sleep.

A great mirror is mounted on the wall as you pass through the first building to the second, so it is possible to do a visual check before exiting to the street. As you can see...I had to bundle up, as the weather was a bit cold and it was quite a rainy April! A light weight wool jacket, trench, jeans, boots, scarf, and umbrella were de rigueur.

Le Cepage was the first place where I went to have a coffee and croissant. This brightly lit restaurant is a local favorite. Whilst living here for a week, I felt like I was on vacation from Paris! As much as I love all the great monuments, museums, pomp, and circumstance of PARIS...here there is a bit of respite from the tourists, and the hustle and bustle of crowds. Having the luxury to relax and contemplate while visiting was a welcome delight.

This lovely patisserie is a beautiful relic of the past that continues to be dressed up each day with baguettes, sandwiches, and desserts. When a place looks this inviting, I have to stop and try something! Speaking of baguettes, Montmartre has won the competition for "Best Baguette" in Paris the past several years. I have read that it has something to do with the water in this arrondissement. Regardless of the shop you choose...there are no "bad" decisions. I actually purchased a baguette from one of the "award winning" shops and my preference was a baguette from a "lesser known" place...go figure!

No surprises here...these works of art are the creation of Arnaud Larher, who was awarded the distinction of Meilleur Ouvier de France in 2007. Arnaud, labeled the "Star of Montmartre"began his career at Dalloyau and Fauchon before opening his own shop on rue Caulaincourt. Still in his 30s, he is developing a following throughout the world!

Seriously, just steps away on rue Cauliancourt, it was always a pleasure to walk past this exquisite floral shop, gorgeous abundance! Inside you can glimpse the formal chandelier...what else does one need, really?

This is the site that would welcome me home in the evening after a long day of exploration in Paris...
Home sweet home.

A bientôt!
Henri

A chateau in Normandy...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Sun, 27 May 2012 22:29:00 +0000

The first weekend after arriving in Paris, my friend Cheryl and I went to Normandy to visit our friends, Christine and Jean Jacque. They were gracious to arrange a visit to a 15th century chateau that is near their home in Pont de-l' Arche.

I was anxiously looking forward to seeing this chateau, as I have never been inside a privately owned chateau in the French countryside. This is the approach to the chateau...a gravel road leading to an old stone entrance...

This captivating chateau did not disappoint!

The massive old doors welcome visitors to the home...this entry makes a statement!

This is a shot of the ancient wine cellar that is still used today...it seems impossible!

Here is a photo of the stables on the left and the family's "private" chapel. The couple plan to finish renovating the chapel in order for their son, who is 14, to get married there. (Le sigh!)

The house takes on a magical and majestic character as it sits nestled between the trees on the opulent lawn.

I hope you enjoy seeing this magnificent piece of architecture as much as I love sharing it!

If you would like to see more photos of the chateau, I will be posting a photo album at my FB page,
Henri Love Paris.

A bientôt!
Henri

What's the plan...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Wed, 16 May 2012 12:47:00 +0000

Well, sometimes in Paris the best plan is no plan at all...

Mind you, if you have a limited amount of time in Paris and you have an agenda that is a mile long, you can't afford not to have a plan...but sometimes it is good to just head out in a direction and see where it takes you.

That was the case for me on this particular day. I knew I wanted to walk through the Tulieries Gardens beginning at Place de la Concorde and head toward the Louvre; but, I didn't have a clear cut plan laid out before me. The Jardin de Tulieries is a typical French style formal garden designed by the famous landscape architect, André Le Nôtre (who also designed or re-designed Vaux-le-Vicomte, Versailles, and many other formal gardens in and around Paris). Once I reached the area where the fountains lie before the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, hunger pangs set in.

I grabbed a sandwich from an upscale food vendor there in the park and took a seat at one of the fountains...the Louvre was my backdrop. While enjoying my lunch in the park...I noticed this adorable little girl...intent on launching and sailing her boat all around the fountain. Small sailboats with push sticks can be rented and children delight in setting them afloat in the fountains. This a a traditional French amusement for children.

I was amazed by the concentration and determination this young girl displayed while navigating her vessel in the water.

The day was crisp with the cold air and cloud coverage. I had on a light weight wool jacket, jeans, boots, two scarves, and a trench coat. My new little friend was stylish in her army green over sized sweater, baggy shorts, red socks, and black kicks.

One last action shot of the petite fille before heading off once again toward the Louvre. These are the moments in Paris that always make a lasting impression on me...spontaneous, joyful, thoughtful...and certainly not planned.

“I've seen you, beauty, and you belong to me now, whoever you are waiting for and if I never see you again, I thought. You belong to me and all Paris belongs to me and I belong to this notebook and this pencil.”
― Ernest Hemingway

Love,
Henri

Dinner, classical music, opera...Bel Canto!

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Fri, 11 May 2012 01:11:00 +0000

For the past two years, I have been hearing about Bel Canto, a restaurant located in the 4th arrondissement where classical music fills the air and the waiters break out singing opera sporadically though out dinner.

With careful planning, my friend Cheryl (Paris du Jour) and I made our way by metro over to Quai de l' Hotel de Ville for an evening of dinner, wine, and song.

This restaurant is a little jewel box overlooking the Seine. Brightly lit on the outside and warm, intimate, and inviting on the inside.

The tables are set with crisp white linens and candlelight reflects off the mirrored walls.

A kir royale and an appetizer gets the evening off to a smooth start.

The pianist begins to play classical music...

The waiters were never far away from the tables and they entertained the crowd that evening with some of the most famous and familiar songs from popular operas.

As the evening comes to a close...this delicious dessert was served...each course was very tasty!

One last song before we go off into the cool, crisp Parisian night...a delightful and relaxing way to end the day.

I highly recommend Bel Canto. It seemed that the night we dined there, the restaurant was filled with some tourists; but, also many Parisians. It was obvious that some of the diners were locals and that is always a good sign...

I hope that you will consider visiting Bel Canto. I plan to make a reservation and go back the next time I am in Paris...it was an evening that I won't forget!

Bisous,
Henri

A very special street in Montmartre...Cité Du Midi

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Mon, 07 May 2012 16:05:00 +0000

Sometimes the most delightful discovery for me is to happen upon an unexpected treasure in the most unlikely place.

Located at the bottom of Montmartre lies boisterous Pigalle, a sometimes raunchy, rowdy area characterized by neon signs, street hawkers, and venues of the "night." One could easily walk right by this pristine and quiet pedestrian passage lined with stately and exquisite apartment buildings and never know the difference.

The detail of the delicate glass awning and the heavy black iron door is typical in Paris.

The juxtaposition of the "street scene" and the passage is what makes this little discovery so appealing. The passage is a haven of quiet and solitude...it is impossible to believe that it is just steps away from the loud and proud electrified windmill of the famous cabaret, Le Moulin Rouge.

On the day that I visited, the spring flowers were cascading over this gated courtyard, I tried to peek inside the window...I always try to imagine who might live in one of these charming homes. Then, I try to image myself living here...and my mind goes down that rabbit hole...kind of like Alice.

On one side of the street, there is a riot of flowers and on the other side, a more austere presence... all working to perfection!

This black arched iron door above...my idea of complete perfection! This door symbolizes everything I love about design...repetition, circles, symmetry, black/white palate, and simplicity. This door speaks to me in some universal language of beauty.

Moving on, this facade was an unexpected color and style; but, the harmonious, monochromatic palate of browns and beige makes for the most tailored design. Adding on to the vignette is the layering of the terra cotta pots with the green accents of the vibrant plants. Nothing boring here...this place looks ALIVE!

Now, a more serious feeling...black.

Everything here...black,

with the exception of a chocolate brown door and the warning signs posted on the wall.

Who knew that these signs could actually become a form of adornment?

The ornamental arched entry, creamy beige walls, white shutters, and muted blue door beckons me to come a little closer...

The tree with a few leaves hanging on the limbs serves as an outdoor sculpture in the courtyard.

At the end of the passage, this uniquely shaped building curves inward...the rows of windows on the upper story seem to suggest the perfect vantage point to peer up the street toward Boulevard de Clichy.

An old iron pot sits atop an ancient looking pedestal...the peeling blue gate hides the entrance to building.

Just a simple little window sill captivates my attention.

One last doorway I pass in this little oasis of calm as I head back to the hustling street scene of Pigalle. I am so fortunate that a friend shared the location with me...it is an experience like this that keeps bringing me back to Paris...

Bisous,
Henri

I keep imagining myself living on a street just like this one in Paris...the seed has been planted.

How I Packed for Paris and Fashion Inspiration!

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Thu, 03 May 2012 14:47:00 +0000

When I think of Paris, FASHION immediately comes to mind! As I prepared for my trip to Paris...I started obsessing about what I was going to wear as I walked the streets of Paris. The thought of Parisian fashion can be intimidating for me...I want to fit in! I envision myself looking amazingly chic and unmistakably Parisian!

The reality is that when I am in Paris, I am usually pounding the pavement and catching the metro to navigate the city as quickly as possible. I am trying to see and do all the things that I have been researching prior to my visit in Paris. Additionally, when I am in Paris...my preferred way to visit is akin to that of a Parisian that lives there every day in one of the smaller neighborhoods like Montmartre...not quite the image of the fashionistas that I have seen walking the Tuileries to attend a fashion event in 5 inch heels. (Don't get me wrong...I would love to do that as well; but, for now, that isn't my reality!)

How clever is the window display of the mannequin sitting atop a mound of apples with that snappy red, black, and white theme or these yummy turquoise suede pants?

Below red is all the rage...

RED HOT!

Luckily for me, good sense took over and I packed accordingly...jeans, light weight wool jackets, trench coat, scarves, flat boots/shoes, and umbrella. I wore a version of this every day in a color palette of beige, brown, black, and white. April is usually warmer and less rainy than March; but, this year, March and April reversed themselves and there were many cold rainy days interspersed with some bright blue skies and massive marshmallow clouds.

I am still thanking my stars that I had all the right gear to make my trip a pleasure. No matter what the weather did...I was ready. Having the right clothes can make your trip so much more enjoyable because if you aren't dressed for the weather...you won't be comfortable. The weather was colder than I expected; but, I was a Girl Scout and I was ready! Bring it!

These are some of my favorite shots of windows that I took throughout the city.
Electric blue suede heels with bright orange ensembles from Carven...J'ADORE.

Color is the dominant theme this spring/summer season; however, I love this gorgeous white confection. Trop Belle!

Another great way to get some fashion infusion and inspiration is to take note of the creative and flawless mannequins that are abundant throughout the Grand Magasins (large department stores in Paris). This shot was taken inside Galeries Layfayette, before I was asked to stop taking photos...;P

Here is a little shot of me returning from dinner one evening...as you can see...I am bundled up but I am warm! A black suit is lurking underneath my beige trench...not heavy on color; but, I actually fit in perfectly that evening!

Bisous,
Henri

P.S. I did take a pair of black and gold 4 inch Louboutin heels...they never made it outside their dust covers.

Always a new discovery...Place Dauphine

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Wed, 02 May 2012 20:47:00 +0000

I was on a mission to discover Place Dauphine. This charming little square centrally located in the 1st arrondissement had been recommended to me by my friends at Cobblestay and My Melange. Luckily, as I set out about my walk of the area, the blue skies were abundant and the clouds were floating peacefully about Paris.

An easy way to access Place Dauphine is to cross Pont Neuf (the "New Bridge" which is actually the oldest bridge in Paris and it was constructed by Henri IV around 1600). Pont Neuf connects the left and right banks of the Seine by passing over the western tip of the Île de la Cité. As you are approaching the middle of the bridge, you will see the imposing equestrian statue of Henri IV, that was installed in 1614. Henri IV was instrumental in setting the stage to develop Paris into the beautiful European capital of buildings and squares that we see today.

Below the equestrian statue on the point of the "downstream"portion of the island lies the tree filled square, Vert Galant. This is considered a prime and romantic "make-out" spot for lovers! The name of the garden comes from Henry's nickname, the Green Knight, a reference to his notorious behavior as a "ladies' man."

Now, with the statue to your back and looking eastward, there are two paired pavilions and a street called Rue Henri Robert (1948) which bisects the pavilions and runs 40 meters long connecting the bridge and Place Dauphine.

Place Dauphine was one of Henri IV's earliest city planning projects. This was one of two ongoing planned squares (1607), the other being Place Royale (now Place des Vosges). Place Dauphine is actually triangular in shape and consists of 3 acres of land. Chestnut trees shade the public space named to honor the son of Henri IV, Louis the Dauphine (the future Louis XIII). Minister Sully and The President of the Parliament, Achille de Harlay, were instructed to develop the area surrounding the garden with a series of shops and houses the would adhere to a specified plan and repetitious facades. Houses constructed here were more modest compared to those under construction at Place Royale.

Each repeating unit of the square is comprised of a ground floor with 2 arcaded shop fronts dressed with stone between which a narrow door opens into an interior court with a steep staircase leading to the residential floors above. Over the years, some of these units have been rebuilt and the interior configurations may have changed; but, the facades remain the same.

In the year 1840, Michel Leonard bought this building and transformed it into a hotel, naming it in honor of Henri IV. Although the Hotel Henry IV changed hands over the years...it is still in operation and it is a place where students, artists, professors, and guests from abroad come to stay.

The eastern end of the square is opened up to view the white marble of the Second Empire Palais de Justice, erected in the years 1857-1868.

If you have a moment...take a walk through this charming square that harkens back to another era and enjoy the tranquility of this place located in the center of Paris.

Bisous,
Henri

First day in Paris...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Sun, 29 Apr 2012 17:13:00 +0000

For me, there is nothing more exciting than planning a return visit to Paris. Now that I have been going regularly for the past couple of years, I am getting to feel like I know the city on a more intimate level. I actually have several little rituals that I like to do when I arrive.

I have a driver pick me up at the airport and head straight to the Latin Quarter. I like to stay in a little family owned "pink gem"...Hotel des Grandes Ecoles. I drop the bags at the desk and keep moving so I can get on Paris time. I head around the corner from the hotel and I see my first local landmark. I duck in the side door of Saint Etienne du Mont (featured in the movie, Midnight in Paris) to get my church fix going.

I exit the front of the church and behold, Le Pantheon. The Pantheon was originally built as a church dedicated to St. Genevieve and to house the reliquary châsse containing her relics; but, after many changes, now functions as a secular mausoleum containing the remains of distinguished French citizens.

This grand building sits at the top of Rue Soufflot (named after Jacques-Gabriel Soufflot, the architect of Le Pantheon). If you stand on the steps here you can see Le Jardin du Luxembourg (the second largest public park in Paris) and beyond the Eiffel Tower.

As I walk toward the garden, it is beginning to sink in that I have arrived in Paris and I will be here for 2 weeks. I feel like the luckiest person in the world! I am now entering at the eastern entrance...greeted by the statue of Pan and a riot of purple and pink tulips. Trop Belle!

Le Jardin du Luxembourg is one of the best places to go for relaxation, beauty, and people watching.

Glancing across the lawn, another statue comes into view. You can look in almost any direction and see a statue, as a large population of statues reside here. After a short rest on a bench, the wind picks up and I decide to return to the hotel for a quick nap. For me...this is always a great way to begin my stay in Paris.

“A walk about Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty, and in the point of Life.”
-Thomas Jefferson

Bisous,
Henri

A River Runs Through It...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Thu, 16 Feb 2012 10:32:00 +0000

A short train ride from Paris lies the town of Amboise, located in the Loire Valley. One perfectly splendid day my friend Cheryl and I traveled to this picturesque destination to visit Chateau Amboise. In route, the train ride follows along the Loire River ( the longest river flowing in France, over 170 kilometers). Sitting back it is possible to catch glimpses of French country life and charming villages. The central most part of the Loire Valley is designated as a World Heritage Site and the Loire Valley has been called "The Garden of France." Additionally, the area was ruled by the French Monarchy for several centuries so it is also known as "The Valley of the Kings," with over 1000 chateaux dating from the medieval to the late Renaissance periods.

Today I came across a quote that brought to mind this photo that I snapped of the Loire River whilst standing at the top of Chateau Amboise.

"All rivers are making their way back to the ocean, some rivers get there faster because they take a more direct route, some meander; but, do not be fooled...the river has no choice, it simply is."
June Bayliss

Somehow, standing there that day taking this picture...I felt as one with the river.

Love,
Henri

A little quote...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Fri, 27 Jan 2012 03:57:00 +0000

"The only place the mind will ever find peace is inside the silence of the heart."

Elizabeth Gilbert

Bisous,
Henri

Photo taken in the Grand Hall at Chenonceau, Cher River, France

Up in the clouds...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 20:42:00 +0000

One of my favorite things to do when I get to Paris is visit Galeries Lafayette. Not only is this "grand magasin" a fabulous shopping mecca; but, it also offers one of the most panoramic views of the city.

Take the elevator to the top of the building and prepare to be blown away! On this particular day last June, the clouds were streaming by the majestic Palais Garnier. What an impressive vantage point to view this iconic building!

The Paris Opera was commissioned in 1860 by Napoleon III. Architect Charles Garnier was selected to build an opera house that would reflect the opulence of the Second Empire. Great composers, allegorical figures representing spirits of music and dance, as well as voluptuous nudes grace the facade and exterior of the building. (The nudes actually caused quite a scandal when they were unveiled back in the day.) This view is technically the rear of the opera.

A few steps to the left of the view of the opera, the Eiffel Tower can be seen in the distance. Standing on the roof and looking out over the vast landscape of Paris, I am struck with awe and reverence. So much beauty, history, turbulence, and energy intersects in this one spot before my eyes. It is a wonderful opportunity to reflect on all that was, is, and will be in this magnificent city.

A bientôt,
Henri

Le Caveau des Oubliettes...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Sat, 14 Jan 2012 02:07:00 +0000

Definition of Oubliette: a secret dungeon with a trapdoor in the ceiling where persons are condemned to perpetual imprisonment, to perish secretly

On the corner of rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre and the narrow, historic Rue Galande, there sits a curious little bar, Le Caveau des Oubliettes, Le Guillotine Bar. In another lifetime, this dimly lit bar served as a holding place for the unfortunate prisoners during the time of The Revolution (1793). Those who were thrown down into Le Caveau (The Cave) were awaiting their meeting with the newly developed trademark of the Revolution, Le Guillotine. The thick walls of the stairwell and heavy trap door covering Le Caveau helped obscure the wails and howling of the prisoners.

Coming in off the street, you will find a darkly lit, atmospheric bar and beyond the bar lies the staircase where you will descend into "Le Caveau des Oubliettes"...the cave of the forgotten. The walls are decorated with heavy chains, handcuffs, and a barred window...reminders of the room's past.

The space below is cramped with only twelve wooden tables. Here a jazz or blues band performs into the night. When the doors open at 10 pm. there is always a mad dash of people heading for the stairwell leading downstairs to the entertainment. It is a one of the more unique ways to experience music and a piece of history at once.

It is nice to know that this historic relic in history has survived!

A bientôt,
Henri

Le Train Bleu...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Wed, 28 Dec 2011 02:21:00 +0000

"It wasn't until I arrived in Paris that I realized I was starving for grandeur."

"On a frosty January evening in 1975, I lugged my much loathed tweed-sided American Tourister suitcase up the staircase leading to Le Train Bleu after reading in Let's Go Europe that it overlooked the main hall of the station (Gare de Lyon) and was one of the most beautiful restaurants in the world. I couldn't afford to eat there; but, the guidebook tipped me off that I could at least afford a coffee."

"Coming through the doors, I was stunned by a vision of the nineteenth-century opulence that had made Paris the envy of the world. Waiters in black tie and fitted black waistcoats, most of them with mustaches, raced through the room bearing trays overhead..."

"My coffee came and when I noticed a tiny chocolate wrapped in gold foil on the edge of the saucer, my heart melted. So this was Paris, a place where a pauper could become a prince for a few francs. When I dug into my pocket for a cigarette, I was startled by sulfur and looked up to find that the bartender with the pencil mustache and finely oiled streaks of hair stretched over his bald dome was waiting to light my smoke. 'C'est magnifique, Le Train Bleu, n'est ce pas?' he said with a grin."

Today as I was looking at several new books that I had set aside, I came across this description of the restaurant Le Train Bleu, written by Alexander Lobrano in his book, Hungry for Paris, The Ultimate Guide to the City's 102 Best Restaurants. I really fell hard for the sentence, "a place where a pauper could become a prince for a few francs." Who doesn't want to feel like a prince (or a princess) on occasion? And, I could totally relate to the sheer grandeur of the restaurant.

I hope you enjoyed this little journey into Le Train Bleu as much as I did. This past June I was staying very near to Gare de Lyon, if only I had known...I could have walked over for a cup of coffee...

Bisous,

Henri

All photos courtesy of Google Images

L'Hotel Le Lauzun

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Mon, 19 Dec 2011 21:30:00 +0000

Located on the Ile St. Louis is this lovely old hotel (home) at #17 quai d' Anjou. During the 17th century, a wealthy owner built this elaborate home with the decorative balcony and fish drainpipes. The inside panelling was gilded and painted with the same flourish as the exterior. Above the door the inscription reads, Hotel de Lauzun, 1657. During the 19th century, the aristocracy moved to Versailles and the home fell on harder times, becoming a laundry. Fortunately, the owner stored the panelling in a cellar and it was rescued and restored to its former glory at a later date.

At one point in the history of this property, the famous 19th century literary figure, Charles Baudelaire lived here on the ground floor from October 1843 to September 1845. While living here he took hashish with Theophile Gautier and friends, founding Club des Hachischins (other memebers included Rilke, Sickert and Wagner). It was here that Baudelaire fell madly in love with his mixed race mistress, Jeanne Duval, and wrote poetry prolifically... creating what would later become Les Fieurs du Mal.

Baudelaire rarely lived at one address for such a long period of time during his life (1821-1867). He actually lived at 45 different addresses in Paris, not including a few dives where he would bolt and lodge to avoid his creditors, which was often.

L'Hotel Lauzun is now owned by the city of Paris, where it is used for receptions and honorary guests. It is a wonderful gesture that the grandeur of the home can once more be appreciated.

This is a particularly beautiful area on the quai de Anjou and the residence next door, the Hotel Lambert, is equally elegant and famous...just another small snippet of history waiting to be discovered.

Enjoy your stroll...A bientot!

Henri

Notre Dame in Silhouette...

noreply@blogger.com (Henri Loves Paris...) — Mon, 05 Dec 2011 23:47:00 +0000

Each time I return to Paris, I always take one evening and go on a dinner cruise. I don't think that there is a better or more romantic way to see the City of Light than by boarding a dinner cruiser. This short evening adventure will create an opportunity for you to sit back while sipping champagne, dine on a first class meal, and view the historic, illuminated landmarks along the Seine.

Imagine an evening filled with elegance and romance...a time to relax and allow all possibilities to unfold. Truly, this is a feast for the senses.

Bonne nuit mes amours,
Henri

I recommend Bateau Parisiens.