My guest post today by Lyndsey Biddle of Briefcases Direct gives us a taste of Kolkata in India where she lives, a city with it’s own atmosphere and rewards.

Kolkata is one of the largest cities in India, but unlike the other large metropolis, this northeast Indian city, capital of Bengal, has an identity and character all its own. To some travelers, Kolkata (also known as Calcutta) is a praiseworthy treasure trove of culture and worthwhile activities and sights that will be the source of many good memories. To others, the city leaves a lasting impression that will haunt them for the rest of their lives.

Rickshaw drivers take a nap in Kolkata

While Kolkata continues to grow in both population and globalizing trends like the construction of shopping malls, new restaurants and boutiques, the city also clings onto its past, often stunting development. Original taxis from the 1950’s still jam the streets, hand-pulled rickshaws still tote passengers through the cities narrow alleyways, and Rabindra Sangeet, songs by Rabindranath Tagore, are blasted from speakers in the streets. It is these long lasting cultural titbits that have helped me to love Kolkata.

There is also something so nostalgic and warming by the cities pride and love for culture. If you are interested in art exhibits, poetry, classical Indian songs, theatrical performances, traditional dance and the like, you will no end of amusement in the City of Joy. Everyday there are cultural happenings across the city and most are advertised in the local news paper.

Victoria Memorial in Kolkata

If you are inspired by architectural design then you may enjoy a walking tour of the north-central area of the city where original structures built during the British colonization of India are well preserved and offer a pleasing visual change from the otherwise modern and bland apartment buildings that are popping up in newer areas of the city. To take a walking tour of the north central area’s architecture you should take the metro to Central station. Or you can take the metro to Esplanade station and walk past New Market on your way towards Central station.

Stall in the New Market in Kolkata

New Market is a sea of aisle ways leading past shops of every nature. This is the largest in-door market in the city and has been around for quite some time. You can find virtually anything here including sewing supplies, cheeses, clothing and flowers. The porters will cling themselves to your every move, insisting that you let them direct you through the market and to carry your purchases. If you want their help then just give a small tip when you finish shopping. If you don’t want their help then just be determined, tell them so, and try your best to ignore the fact that they will continue trying to lead you and help you anyways. It takes a good deal of patience to tackle New Market but the market is enormous and worth a visit.

Children in Kolkata

Though Kolkata is the culture capital of India, the city can tend to turn a lot of tourists away. The poverty is the first thing you will notice: slums bordering the base of brand new shopping malls, people picking through garbage heaps, naked children with distended bellies. These sights are difficult for anyone to bear. It is one of the biggest negative drawbacks to visiting this city, though you will face poverty wherever you go, in Kolkata the striking mixture of poor and rich will knock you back a few steps.

Regardless, the city is an amazing place to visit and you should not pass it up on your travel plans. If you are interested, you can volunteer during your visit at a number of poverty and wellness organizations across the city like Mother Theresa’s Mother House. Check out opportunities online before you arrive.

Lyndsey writes for Briefcases Direct, a website that offers luxury briefcases direct from the manufacturer. Lyndsey is currently living in Kolkata, India and studying the Bengali language in her free time.

Photo credits: Rickshaw drivers by Nicholas, Kids by Nicholas Market by Mirmurr, Victoria Memorial by Rita Willaert

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They’re crisp, creamy, custardy and perfumed with vanilla and cinnamon – the Pastel de Nata are the signature pastry of Lisbon. If you have a sweet tooth, like me you’ll find yourself looking for opportunities to taste them – at your hotel breakfast, with your mid-morning coffee and perhaps a few to take home.

Pasteis de Belem in Lisbon, Portugal

There are plenty of Pastelarias or cake shops around Lisbon, but there’s one place that’s on every tourist map for tasting these delicious little mouthfuls and that’s the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém where the cakes are simply known as the Pastéis de Belém. In 15 minutes from downtown Lisbon on the no 15 tram you’ll reach the Monastery of Jerónimos, another Lisbon landmark and one tram stop before is the bakery. You’ll know it from the crowds milling around around the doorway, queuing to buy some of the famous Pasteis de Belém.

In the Pasteis de Belem shop in Lisbon

If the sun had been shining, I’d have bought my pasteis and eaten them in the nearby park, overlooking the River Tagus, but as it was pouring with rain, we spotted a sign saying that seating was available and decided to venture in. Initially I couldn’t believe that there would be anywhere to sit, but as one room opened into the next we walked on through until we reached a large room where there were some free tables. They do sell snacks and sandwiches here, but I would imagine that barely anyone leaves without having ordered their Pastéis de Belém.

In the Pasteis de Belem coffee shop in Lisbon, Portugal

So the story goes that in the 18th century the monks of the nearby monastery sold the ancient recipe to the bakery and it remained a secret, only known by 3 of the chefs at the bakery. There’s even a special room where the secret’s kept. It’s a nice story, but if you’d like to give the Pasteis a try, then you I’ve found a recipe on Forks & Jets that you can try out – I’m going to give it a go at Christmas as an alternative to the mince pies.

Portuguese Christmas cakes at Pasteis de Belem in Lisbon

All the pasties are made on the premises and each day they turn out anything between 15,000 and 50,000 pastries (yes that’s FIFTY THOUSAND). What a production line! If you’d like to hear the interview where I gleaned this nugget of useful information – listen to the Hostelworld Podcast on Lisbon.

Near our table was a counter showing some of the other biscuits, cakes and preserves made at the bakery and we also bought a ringed cake topped with colourful crystalised fruits as a gift for some local friends we were going to visit. They later told us that it was the traditional Portuguese Christmas cake, which might have a little token buried in it, in the same way that we might put a sixpence in the Christmas pudding for one lucky person to find (hoping they won’t break a tooth on it first)

We enjoyed our coffee and Pastéis, which are said to be the best in Lisbon, although I have to say that the ones we were served in our Hotel Av Liberdade had the marginal edge on the creaminess, crunchiness and general deliciousness scale (must find out where they get them). I’m still dreaming of those little morsels of yumminess – it will be hard to miss them when you’re next in Lisbon.

This post is part of Wanderfood Wednesday hosted over at Wanderlust and Lipstick - head over for chocolate and strawberries and other foodie delights

Antiga Confeitaria de Belém
Rua de Belém 84-82, Lisbon

Resources

Guidebooks - I used my Dorling Kindersley Top 10 guide to Lisbon, ideal for a short break as it gives you just the top things to see and do and you don’t have to wade through too much information.
Podcasts - Hostelworld Podcast - Only in Lisbon
Podcasts - Guardian Unlimited Podcast - Lisbon

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My Lisbon Guest post today is by Fiona Hilliard of ArgusCarHire. Fiona usually writes about car hire Faro, but after a recent visit to Lisbon and its coastline, she was eager to share her experiences of Portugal’s west coast.

The essence of Lisbon in Alfama

No 28 Tram in Lisbon to see the sights

Santa Justa Elevator: check
Bairro Alto: check
Castelo Sao Jorge: chee-eck

You’ve completed your Lisbon checklist, but have you really seen Lisbon? Really?

You can’t say you’ve truly experienced the essence of the Portuguese capital until you’ve made at least one trip to Alfama.

“Alfama is a higgledy-piggledy neighbourhood where sunshine yellow trams squeeze through pin-thin streets and twittering songbirds flutter between top floor balconies…”

When describing Alfama it’s impossible not to sound like you’re referencing a scene dreamt up by Walt Disney. Yes it’s slushy, but it’s also true, so in it goes. Indeed every street you pass is a pastel-coloured blockbuster waiting to happen.

28 is the magic number. Sharpen your elbows at the Chiado and scramble aboard this vintage tourist tram - if you’re lucky you might just nab a window seat. As the streetcar sets off on its uphill route, ordinary details like cobblestones, chipped wall tiles and swirly streetlamps became weirdly fascinating - and very photogenic, but once you reach Alfama, the whole city of Lisbon opens up like a pop-up book.

There’s the dazzling River Tagus, a ready-mixed backdrop for the artists sketching the brilliant white churches, terracotta rooftops and gently swaying palm trees. Tempting as it is to do nothing but sit and watch the paintings take shape, a sense of incurable curiosity prevails, propelling you up mountainous steps and winding streets, on and on past secret Fado bars and snoozing cats, flapping paper chains and festive lanterns. Make sure you have plenty of memory in your camera because you‘ll be compelled to photograph everything in sight. As light fades, let the magnetic blue of the Tagus tow you back downhill.

Night falls in Lisbon

Evening in Lisbon is signalled by the smoky smell of sardines grilling. First popularised by the city’s patron saint, St Anthony, sardines have been celebrated as Lisbon’s favourite dish ever since the 13th century. After eating your fill of oily fish, enjoy a little R and R and prepare yourself for a night on the tiles.

Night falls in Lisbon

Lisbon is as famous for its lively nightlife as it is for its seven hills. From the trendy ‘dive’ bars of Bairro Alto to the celebrity owned hangouts that line the waterfront, sleep should be the last thing on your mind when you find yourself in the Portuguese capital after-dark. One of the city’s most unusual venues is an all-night circus school called Chapito. Situated high in the hills of Alfama, Chapito attracts a kaleidoscopic whirl of actors, artists and guitar-strumming bohemians. Any sense of surrealism is dispelled by the stunning views of the cityscape that stretch from Alfama’s warren of tightly knit rooftops to the winking lights of the 25 de Abril Bridge and the Docas waterfront.  

Just beyond Lisbon

Monastery of Jeronimus in Lisbon

Dance ‘til dawn parties not your cup of tea? Don’t worry - it’s not all ‘go’ in Lisbon.

More tranquil pursuits can be found in the towns and villages of the Lisbon coastline. First stop on the coast road is the historic town of Belém. The architectural wonders of Belém Tower and Jeronimós Monastery make it a worthwhile day-trip, but no journey to Belém should be considered complete without sampling a locally baked custard tart. These crisp, papery pastries are purported to be the best in Lisbon – try for yourself before leaving town. They should at least see you through the 25-minute car journey to Sintra.

Pasteis de Belem in Lisbon

Once described by the poet Byron as “Glorious Eden”, Sintra is home to no less than three wonderfully romantic palaces and has been classified as a World Heritage site since 1995. The most westerly point in Europe is not far from here – neither are the pristine golf courses of Estoril.

After a leisurely round in Estoril, proceed down the A5 motorway to the seaside town of Cascais. Along with Estoril and Oerias, Cascais forms what is known as the Portuguese Riviera.

A handsome town hall with painted shutters, black and white cobbled thoroughfares and a colourful beachside market all contribute to a sense of old-fashioned colonial decadence. Throughout the summer months, the main square is filled with al-fresco diners and open-air music performances. There are various cultural attractions on offer too, including Museu do Mar (Museum of the Sea) where you can learn all about the area’s sea faring explorers and their heritage. Though, with surroundings so beautiful, it’s hard to see why anyone ever wanted to leave.

Heather’s comment

World Heritage site at Sintra

Having just returned from Lisbon I can agree with everything Fiona suggests - get lost in those narrow streets and make sure you take your most comfortable shoes for those steep hills and cobbled streets! Sadly, we didn’t have time to explore all of things just outside Lisbon, but all the more reason to return another time. If you need a car to get around Portugal’s coast, the check out Fiona’s website at Argoscarhire

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Photo Credits: Sintra photo by Szeke, Lisbon at night by Sergio Condeco, Alfama photos by Fiona Hilliard, all other photos by Heather on her travels

We’re in Lisbon, staying at the bright blue townhouse of the Hotel Heritage Av Liberdade with a view of the rooftops from our room on the 5th floor. This building used to be made up of a car showroom on the ground floor and apartments above and as I stand at the open window of the corner room, I do feel as if I’m in some rather elegant garret.

View of the church dome behind Hotel Heritage Av Liberdade in Lisbon

The sun rose behind the Castelo de sao Jorge turning the grey sky pink and gold and promising a fine day although it is forecast heavy rain - I guess we’ll take our chances.

Elevador do Lavra behind Hotel Heritage Av Liberdade in Lisbon

The church bells behind the hotel chime from time to time and there’s the occasional chug of the Elevador do Lavra, a small tram car as it climbs the steep hill, saving the walker’s weary legs.

We’ll see what today will bring as we explore Lisbon. You’ll be hearing much more about our trip when I get back, but just wanted to send you a short postcard to let you know how we’re getting on. You can follow my Tweets and send me your Lisbon recommendations too on Twitter @heathercowper.

Wish you were here!

By the time you read this I’ll be on my way to Lisbon for a weekend away with my dearly beloved. I love city breaks and there are plenty of European destinations we can easily access from Bristol. Lisbon is one that’s been on my list for a while, with cobbled streets, the steep hills and that golden glow. I’ve been warned to choose my footwear carefully and leave all heels at home.

Lisbon by night

In Lisbon, I’ll be sure to taste some of those delicious custard tarts, decide which is my favourite style of port and no doubt wonder whether the cherry brandy that you buy shots of from those little booths is just a bit too much like cough mixture. I might take in a castle, monastery and church or too and I’m hoping to meet up with my new Hospitality Club friend Sergio who sent me this gorgeous photo.

Of course my camera, audio recorder and video camera are coming on the trip, and you can catch my tweets @heathercowper. See you in Lisbon!

This photo is posted as part of Photo Friday at Delicious Baby - see all the other Friday photos over here.

Photo by Sergio Condeco