Recently, a new customer requested we analyze some Remy hair extensions she purchased from another company (not the above mentioned hair extension supplier) that claimed the hair was 100% Remy virgin unprocessed human hair. She had spent a lot of time and money with the company and was frustrated with the complaints she was receiving from her customers. She had read our research article on the origin of human hair with information on Remy hair extensions and hoped we could help clear the confusion. We took her into the lab so she could see us preparing the strands for microscopic analysis and see the evidence for herself. To set a baseline, we asked her to pull a strand of her own hair out of her scalp to examine.

What Remy hair extensions should look like:

The first step in determining if Remy hair extensions are truly Remy, with cuticles and prepared root to tip, is to examine the roots, mid-shaft and ends of the hair fiber. It is fairly normal for cuticles to be missing or worn down near the ends of the hair strands, but thick and healthy near the roots. We captured an image of the hair fiber about mid-shaft with 3500 high magnification and as you can see in the image below, there are cuticles scales in normal condition. The fractured edges are a result of brushing, combing and other mechanical forces. The spots and globs upon the cuticles are hair care treatment residues. In some areas it appears the layers of cuticles are nearly welded together which is common with either conditioner build-up and/or hair sprays. Other than some cosmetic and basic weathering, this is very normal cuticle hair that is often styled.

Example of what is NOT Remy hair extensions:

Using the same magnification, we examined a sample of medium brown hair extensions (supposedly Remy hair extensions) also about mid-shaft of the hair strand. The absence of cuticles was glaringly obvious. Sometimes when examining processed hair we will usually find some layers of cuticles left. This hair strand was so thoroughly stripped that we could see deep cuts into the endocuticle. At the top of the photo the light is reflecting off the coating that is sporadically covering the hair. This type of coating mimics shine and smoothness and when washed away you are left with the true face of the hair. This strand is a prime example of the Non Remy hair extensions commonly sold through many brand names. Even though the cuticles have been chemically stripped from the hair strand, it will still tangle due to the roughened fractured state of the strands. Without any cuticles to give protection this hair will quickly become dull, dry and break with every brushing.

Although this customer already suspected she was being cheated, having the evidence in front of your eyes helped her understand that labels can lie. What was comforting to know is the bad hair extensions was not the result of her work. We also showed her our Remy hair extensions and she asked to see the strands for herself under the microscope. We happily obliged as this is truly the only full proof method to back up your word. If you are a stylist that wonders if the hair you are buying is truly Remy hair extensions, or if you have a hair treatment product that you would like to test on the hair extensions, please write to hair@haircompounds.com with your request and we will provide you with the details.

Moisture is the most important element when understanding how to care for hair extensions!

Finding products that were formulated for dry, processed or damaged hair is a guessing game for the consumer because reading the label doesn’t inform us of what these long term ingredients mean or do for the hair. Unlike food products that at least attempt to give us information of fat, sugars, carbs and calories, very few people know what is Behentrimonium Methosulfate and what it does for the hair. And there is no regulation for descriptor phrases like “adds shine” or “repairs damaged hair”. Wondering how to care for hair extensions and having gone through the frustration of trying to solve hair tangle problems, smooth and shiny hair extensions or fixing frizzy hair in our production we know exactly how difficult it is to find a good product that will work on this type of hair. And it always comes back to moisture content and how this effects the strength of the hair.

Hair extensions are all processed in one way or another. Even virgin Russian hair has to be cleaned, drawn, hackled, blended and then made into hair extensions. By this time, it is already drying out and will continue to do so as it no longer benefits from the sebum oils of the scalp. In most cases, the hair must be bleached and dyed to color match and many manufacturers remove cuticles and apply permanent waves. This is after the hair has been worn and weathered for at least 5 years but most likely 10 years to get a good ponytail of 20″ length. Maintaining the integrity of the hair while keeping it look natural as possible is very hard work so it is critical, even in production, to work with hair treatment systems that actually give as advertised. And most hair care companies do not design their products for hair extensions nor do they know anything about how to care for hair extensions. Our workers at both the factory and in our quality control office must know how to care for the hair extensions from cleaning to tangle testing to conditioning for maximum quality results.

When we decided to make our own hair care products for production, we tested every recipe and product available upon our bulk hair in the factory. We taught the chemists at the formulators all about how to care for hair extensions and how a good conditioner must give more moisture and smoothing properties than normal. Ionix is the only hair care line for hair extensions and hair replacement that was specifically created and formulated in our lab. We use all of the Ionix products on a daily basis in our hair processing applications. Our Ionix line is an excellent choice to maintain natural or bleached blond hair and damaged hair (split ends, dry hair, over-processed hair). Hair & Compounds is the only company that processes human hair (Indian and European) and offers a wet line that was has been developed to work in conjunction with the hair we sell. When you buy the wet products from us (shampoos and special conditioners), you can rest assure that these are the highest quality products. For that reason we apply them in our production department on a daily basis. Between our India factory and the US headquarters we process hundreds of pounds of hair every month. There is no other company we know of that controls the formulation process from beginning to end; this ensures the highest quality in our products. These products were scientifically designed for hair extensions and cut human hair.

Brief guide on how to care for hair extensions using the Ionix products:

• Pre-Shampoo Solution: A blend of natural oils that replaces the hair’s natural oil lost during chemical processing. It will prevent additional damage to the hair by protecting the fibers prior to cleaning and by adding natural moisturizers. Spray lightly all over dry hair. Work through with fingers or comb. Lightly rinse hair and proceed with Ionix Mild Shampoo. Do not use with other shampoos that will leave deposits causing damage.
• Mild Shampoo: A light hair cleanser that must be applied after the Pre-Shampoo Solution in order to clean the hair effectively and reduce damage normally caused by regular shampoos. After rinsing hair from Pre-Shampoo Solution, apply the Mild Shampoo and massage into a lather. Rinse thoroughly. Follow with the Ionix Daily Conditioner or the Deep Conditioner.
• Daily Conditioner: An intricate system made to drastically reduce friction that causes normal, dry and damaged hair to fracture and break. Apply to clean, damp hair. Rinse thoroughly. For more intense conditioning, wait 1-3 minutes. Follow with Ionix Maintenance Spray for all day protection. Style as usual.
• Deep Conditioner: A sophisticated lubricating system that strengthens the hair by increasing elasticity and moisture content. Apply to clean, damp hair and work through to ends of hair. Rinse thoroughly. Follow with Ionix Maintenance Spray for all day protection. Style as usual.
• Maintenance Spray: A powerful neutralizing leave-in conditioner that neutralizes oxidation and conditions the hair through out the day. Use on either wet or dry hair daily. Spray thoroughly and comb through hair. Allow to dry naturally.

The manageability problems and damage arising from the curliness structure comes from combing forces and heat as a result of its own nature.  This generates breakage, frizz and tangled ends. That is not to say you do not cause damage on straighter hair by using excess of heat and aggressive styling techniques. Curly hair fibers are more vulnerable as they grow out in twists and turns so that if you force it to straighten you cause the hair to bend back on itself and weaken. The cuticle layers are already open in many areas along the fiber and can easily lift creating a rougher texture and these cuticles grab each other causing tangled ends. As the hair is subject to heat and force the hair becomes more brittle and frizz is now a constant battle.

What is key? MOISTURE!!!! We cannot stress it enough with any and all hair, but most importantly with curly hair.

• Do not blow dry straight! Do not flat iron! Unless you are going for the crimped french refined texture the hair will not look right. And you risk damaging the curly texture to the point that it will not bounce back so readily to its original curl structure.

• Air dry for no frizz and long lasting curly hair extensions. Seal and protect with either a leave in conditioner or an anti-frizz styling product.

Having recommended leaving the curly hair alone to keep it in the best condition – it does not mean you don’t have styling options. There are many ways to control the curl and create several different styles. Check out this great website that discusses all forms of styling naturally curly hair: www.naturallycurly.com.

We highly recommend our Ionix Pre-Shampoo Solution as a product to use before cleansing the hair. It contains natural oils that help keep the hair moisturized and will not prevent your hair or scalp from getting clean. Another highly recommended product is by Organix, Nourishing Coconut Milk Anti-breakage Serum. Excellent for both regular and curly hair to keep the frizz down and make the hair feel soft and silky. You can find this product on Amazon.

1. Light Brown hair extensions

For a base color of 5 Ash (light neutral brown) add 1 small tip bundle of 4 Ash (mid neutral brown) that will add shadows without overwhelming a neutral brown.

For a base color of 5 Natural (light natural brown) add 1 small tip bundle of 6 Ash (lightest ash brown) to slightly  tone down the reds while adding depth.

Or mix equally the 5 Natural and 4 Natural (mid natural brown) for an amazingly rich blend of natural browns that will not look the least bit boring.

2. Lightest Brown hair extensions

For a base color of 6 Natural (lightest natural brown) add 1 small tip bundle of 5 Natural, or for more a little more drama try 4 Bleach.

For a base color of 6 Ash add 1 small tip bundle of 5 Ash to maintain neutral browns, or for more warmth add 5 Natural.

Or mix equally the 6 Natural and 5 Ash as this will create a beautiful sun-streaked finish. This combination looks like most of the Russian virgin hair that we see.

3. Dark Blond hair extensions

For a base color of 7 Natural (Dark natural blond) add 1 small tip bundle of 7 Ash to compliment and give the appearance of darker root and nape growth.

Or for a warmer touch use 6 Natural for the low light.

Add a touch o f gold with 1 bundle of 8 Bleach to create a hint of strawberry blond.

For a base color of 7 Ash (Dark neutral blond) add 1 small tip bundle of 6 Ash for the most natural looking dark tone.

Or for a bit of light add 1 bundle of 7 Natural.

For a base color of 7 Gold (Dark golden blond) add 1 small tip bundle of 8 Ash (Mid neutral blond) to reduce the brassy effects under certain lighting.

If a subtle light is preferred add 1 small tip bundle of 8 Natural (Mid natural blond).

Try mixing equally the 7 Gold and the 8 Bleach for a gorgeous golden blond.

Custom European Wefts: Using the same color combinations recommended above – convert in the following way for weft hair extensions. 10 to 1 knots color weave or 5 to 1 knots comb thru and for equal mixes 1 to 1 knot color weaves.

Indian Hair

• Still the best option for quantity and quality if you can control your sources.
• Prices increase 3-4 times per year as global demands increase each year.
• The past decade has seen changes in Indian culture that is effecting hair donations to the temples. More and more women are selling their hair directly instead of donating at the temples.
• Supply trends have not really changed from the past few years, although many are just now starting to feel the limitations of supply and prices.

Russian Hair

• Prices have been driven up to the point of ridiculous while quality has seriously declined.
• Last year our company in India has been approached by many Russian and Ukraine hair traders wanting to buy Indian hair. So even the exporters are blending and calling it “Russian” hair.
• The best testing method to know if you have authentic Russian virgin hair is to examine the lightest blond: dark roots, light ends and natural streaks.
• Russian’s have never donated their hair. It has always been sold and has become an increasingly dangerous business in many areas.
• It has also become a dangerous business here in the US as many know by now that even we were robbed at gun point for our Russian hair.
• Wholesale is no longer possible for long lengths. Only small quantities for the stylists  and film wigmakers can now be offered in very limited quantities.

We will be starting with the Cylinder Premium and Cylinder Layered hair extensions (micro ring hair extensions) in 16″ and 20″ lengths, large tip.  Also for the Ready weft hair extensions in 18″ length only. For the Cylinder hair extension lines each bundle will still contain 25 strands, but each single strand will have equal amounts of two colors from our color ring. For example, 12 Bleach and 11 Ash blond colors will bonded together into the large tip creating soft streaks. The size of the large tip will remain the same. For the Ready wefts, each track will have both colors alternating in 1/2″ wide streaks all along each weft piece.

Currently, we are asking our customers to offer their opinion on color combinations on our Facebook page. Your feedback is very important to us as we want to make sure we offer you the color combinations that are most popular for your client base.

• Prepping the hair –The first step is to create a flat surface where the wig will sit. This can be done through molding the hair back, braiding it, or applying a stocking cap or a wig liner.
• Prepping the skin –Next step is to make sure that you have a clean and oil free surface. Clean the forehead perimeter with alcohol for the wig adhesive to adhere better.
• Prepping the wig –To ensure that the hair and baby hairs do not stick to the wig adhesive, pin the hair back.
• Creating the hairline –Creating a natural looking hair line is vital. To do so, try to cut off small amounts of excess lace at a time. Being precise is very important during this process so refrain from jagged cuts. It is important to create a natural hairline and it might require placing the lace front wig on for evaluation. Then mark the area of attachment with a grease pencil. This will guide you where the wig adhesive should be applied.
• Applying wig adhesive –Apply a very thin layer of the wig adhesive to the area where the hairpiece will be placed. To ensure that the layer is consistently smooth you may push brush against the surface. Once you apply a thin layer of the wig adhesive, allow it to air dry until it is clear. Once it is clear let it dry for additional 7 to 10 minutes. If you are using The Perfector wig adhesive please follow the Perfector application guide for best results.
• Putting on the wig –To put on the lace front wig, align it with the base of the hairline and slowly and precisely attach it. It is difficult to adjust or remove the wig after bonding so take your time and don’t rush yourself during this process.

To purchase The Perfector wig adhesive please visit our registration page.

1. Darkest Brown hair extensions

For a base color of 2 Ash (dark neutral brown) add 1 small tip bundle of 1 Natural to give the color deeper shadows.

For a base color of 2 Natural (dark natural brown) mix equally with 2 Ash. The hair changes under different lighting like silky fur.

Or for a touch of warmth add 1 bundle of 1 small tip 3 Bleach with either level 2 base colors.

Custom European Wefts: 10 to 1 knots color weave or 5 to 1 knots comb thru and for equal mixes 1 to 1 knot color weaves.

2. Dark brown hair extensions

For a base color of  3 Bleach (medium warm brown) add 1 small tip bundle of 2 Ash to quiet the red while adding subtle low lights.

For a base color of 3 Ash (medium neutral brown) add 1 small tip bundle of 2 Natural to cut the ash tones without adding any reds.

Or mix both 3 Bleach and 3 Ash equally creating a natural level 3 while maintaining the richness of 2 different color blends.

3. Medium brown hair extensions

For a base color of 4 Natural (medium natural brown) add 1 small tip bundle of 3 Bleach to add both warmth and depth.

For a base color of 4 Ash (medium neutral brown) add 1 small tip bundle of 3 Ash to keep the shades neutral when adding a darker tone.

Or mix equally 4 Natural and 4 Bleach for a beautiful auburn. The light will spark on the strands of 4 Bleach yet the full head of hair will appear as if it all grew in naturally.

In both a standard wave or natural curly hair these color combinations will look amazing. These are only a few suggestions. Using only these 4 levels of color you can create so many combinations of neutrals, warm browns and a few darker shades. The trick is to keep within 1 color level difference between the shades and to play with naturals and ash tones.

As researchers at TRI Princeton explain, Keratin is a protein structure made of amino acids and it comes in many different forms and textures. When our hair is damaged from brushing, bleaching, coloring, and styling, the amino acids are stripped away. To repair the damage, it is important to replace these amino acids with new ones. It doesn’t matter where the new amino acids come from as long as they are the right ones. Possible sources for new amino acids can include from plants, animals, or human hair.

Keratin that comes from human hair is hard and in order to hydrolyze it for use in hair products, it must undergo chemical treatment to make it soft. It is questionable whether the amino acids that result from this process are healthy enough to effectively repair damaged hair fibers. Furthermore, most human hair for the use in cosmetic products comes from India and Asia. It is probable that the hair comes from poor women who might not have had the appropriate diet for healthy hair and fitting amino acids.

When it comes to adding keratin to hair extension adhesives, the keratin also does not make any significant difference. During the development process for our Poly hair extensions, we contracted an adhesive formulator to conduct identification tests on several top selling hair extension adhesives on the market. The results show they do not contain human hair proteins. Keratin adhesive for hair extensions is a myth and we would welcome any opportunity to dispute this by sending their adhesive to a third party testing laboratory. It’s a great idea, but so far the evidence points to it being just an idea.

The seventeenth century was a dramatic time of wigs for men not seen since ancient Egyptian times. When French King Louis XIV started balding he shaved his head and wore a large wig. And then his courtiers began wearing blond wigs to pay homage to their Sun King. Even in old age, Louis continued to wear an enormous wig covered with perfume and white powder. Everyone began copying him and wearing huge wigs when normally they would just wear hair extensions to add some volume.

These large wigs were considered highly valuable and were often mentioned in wills. Those who couldn’t afford a wig would resort to styling their own hair to make it look like a wig! And so began the wig thieves. Some would specialize in robbing passengers in hackney coaches by cutting the back open, snatching the wig and escaping while on horseback. Others would use children by putting them on their shoulders and having them grab a wig while walking through the crowded streets.

Wigs lost their popularity for awhile until the late 20^th century when it once again became stylish or a more common solution to medical problems. Oddly, it was the Beatles wig craze in the 1960’s that notes another rash of thievery. When they became popular with their stylized fifteenth-century hair cut, many people became victims of wig buying scams. As at any other time in human history, when there is a demand for anything that is hard to get, whether it is gold or hair extensions, it drives up not only the prices but also theft.