Grill A Chef

WIld Food Tours In and Around NYC

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Sun, 26 Aug 2012 01:46:00 +0000

Today I took a wild foods walking tour of prospect park with Wild Man Steve Brill. It was incredibly interesting. There are many things in my pantry, whose origin I am completely ignorant of, that grow readily a few blocks away in the park. (Sumac, burdock, and sassafras)
Also, the plethora of tasty edible plants growing everywhere that we simply don't eat.
It was an eye-opening, and delicious, experience that I highly recommend.
If you're interested, you should look him up.

Does "Organic" Taste Better?

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Wed, 22 Aug 2012 13:38:00 +0000

I recently read an article in Lucky Peach magazine about the flavor value of "organic".
We all see the price tag, but are we buying a better product?
The short answer seems to be yes.
Study after study shows that organic produce, particularly leafy stuff, not only tastes better but is healthier. The basic just of it is that the things (phytochemicals) that a plant produces to protect itself, are those that are delicious and are good for us. Part of the idea is that our body had evolved to like the taste of things that are good for us. And that when you start to treat plant with pesticides and herbicides (et al) the plant ceases to create the things that are healthy and tasty. Check this out. . .

What do phytochemicals have to do with flavor? Phytochemicals are chemicals created by plants, and especially those that have effects on other creatures. Plants make many of them to defend themselves against microbes and insects: to make themselves unpalatable, counterattack the invaders and limit the damage they cause. Most of the aromas of vegetables, herbs and spices come from defensive chemicals. They may smell pleasant to us, but the plants make them to repel their mortal enemies.
Why should organic produce have higher phytochemical levels? The current theory is that because plants in organic production are unprotected by pesticides and fungicides, they are more stressed by insects and disease microbes than conventional crops, and have to work harder to protect themselves. So it makes sense that organic produce would have more intense flavors. For some reason, taste tests haven’t consistently found this to be the case. ---This is from this article.

Also, in a particular experiment they distressed basil to test for the optimal level. . .

They soaked basil seeds for 30 minutes in a chitosan solution, then soaked the roots again when they transferred the seedlings to larger pots. After 45 days, they compared the chemical composition of leaves from treated and untreated plants. They found that at the optimum chitosan concentration, the antioxidant activity in treated plants was greater by more than three times. The overall production of aroma compounds was up by nearly 50 percent, and the levels of clove-like and flowery components doubled. --- Also from this article.

Neat-o . . .

The Illusion of Choice

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Fri, 17 Aug 2012 00:06:00 +0000

Interesting no?

About Round Steak

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Tue, 07 Aug 2012 15:56:00 +0000

Round is a tricky cut, especially for shorter cooking times. I know people use it for "steak" cooking methods, but I've never loved it as a steak. It's in the rump of the cow, and so as a muscle, it sees a lot of exercise. Which leaves it with nice beefy flavor, but in a cut that is lean and tough.

Tough is bad for short cooking times because it translates tochewy. Slicing and pounding/tenderizing does do a little to offset this, but in my opinion, not enough.

Lean is bad for long cooking methods because it comes out stringy. I don't love this cut in things like stews and chilis because it can be fibrous and you tend to spend a lot of time picking it out of your teeth.

Some more ideal ways to eat this cut are less traditional, but some of my favorites. It is great in steak tar tare, cut or ground into tiny pieces. It is also yummy when slow braised in a big piece, and then sliced thin once its allowed to cool, and reheated in the braising liquid. While you might not have this method at your disposal, it would be good cooked at a low temperature with an immersion circulator for a long time and then sliced. Many people re to this as "sous vide" - but that term, translating literally to under vacuum, actually infers that you're using a vacuum sealer. The term "low-temp cooking" is a little more accurate.

My Sous Chef

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Sat, 14 Apr 2012 02:20:00 +0000

AKA "The Monster" AKA "Punk" AKA "Beans"
She is a bona fide machine of destruction with an Italian paci. If I am cooking during waking hours, she is there at my knees insisting for a seat on the counter. Where she provides such services as stirring, flipping on/off switches, pinches of salt, and, of course, taste testing.
But you have to watch her, because she will take artistic license with your food.

Her real name is Charlie Mae.

Sautéed Aparagus Ribbons

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Thu, 12 Apr 2012 21:56:00 +0000

This is one of earliest news letters. If you're not signed up, you should be.
I hope you Enjoy it!

Asparagus spring up out of the ground almost overnight, and it's the farmer's job to snip them off promptly. If the shoot is allowed too much time the tip will open up, leading to bitterness, and the stem can become fibrous, mandating annoying peeling and sometimes flossing.

When buying aspargus, look for tightly closed tips, taught surface area and a sturdy trunk. Most importantly, the stem of the shoot should look freshly cut. If you see, dry withered ends move on, ideally you'll find something more like this:

As with many vegetables, asparagus are best consumed as close to the time of purchase as possible. If you know you won't get to them for a couple of days, you should treat them like flowers. Give the stems a short trim and place them upright in a vessel with a little water, store them in the fridge.

To prep asparagus for cooking, usually you cut off the ends. As a reference of where to cut, pull a spear from a quasi uniform bunch of asparagus. Hold it at either end and bend until it snaps. It will break close to the place where you should cut it. You can then cut the whole bunch in one swoop. For bigger asparagus you may still want to peel a little of the outside skin down toward the cut end, but that won't be an issue with this recipe:

Asparagus Ribbons with Lemon Caper Butter
1 Bunch asparagus
1 tbsp    capers, chopped*
2 tbsps   white wine,
1 tbsp    butter
Juice of one lemon

1. Holding the asparagus by the head, use a vegetable peeler to peel until there’s nothing left for a ribbon-like effect. Nip off the head (half the big ones lengthwise) and set aside.

2. Heat three tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet over medium high heat. First drop in the asparagus tips and sauté until just cooked through (3-4 min), then add the ribbons, capers, and wine, stirring continuously until just softened. (1-2min.)

3. Finish with the butter, the lemon juice, and salt to taste. But be sure to taste, because the capers can be quite salty.

Back at It!

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Fri, 06 Apr 2012 01:29:00 +0000

It has been a little while now, and I'm about to get back to bloggin'. Everything is good and great in my world.
Moving forward, you might notice a few changes . . . such as. I expect to talk a little more about my private life, something I avoided a lot before.
My entries will shift a little towards the food I cook professionally.
And finally, I won't be posting nearly as much as I have in the past. I will have to get to it when I can.
Thank you everyone for your continued support.
Keep the cooking questions coming.
advice@grillachef.com

Instant Read Thermometer

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Tue, 03 Apr 2012 14:00:00 +0000

If you don't own one, you should.
I'm often asked how to tell when a steak is done, as if there is a spell or incantation I might recite.
The truest, albeit smart-ass, answer is to take its temperature. It's the secret to knowing when your steak, or anything your cooking, is ready.
What you need to know is that they aren't always calibrated. To calibrate it, fill a cup with ice water and stir it well with your thermometer. It should read 32˚F. If it doesn't, there is a nut/bolt behind the face. Rotate it the appropriate direction until the needle points to 32˚F.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Think You're getting the real thing?

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Fri, 23 Dec 2011 18:00:00 +0000

THIS is a very interesting NPR piece about the state of olive oil in the world today. Definitely worth a listen. And this book is now on my must read list.

How I pick my songs for my newsletter . . . .

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Thu, 22 Dec 2011 17:03:00 +0000

For everyone out there that reads my newsletter I hope you listen to the song I put there with it. (if you don't read the newsletter you can sign up for it on the right over there, It's coming out tomorrow!-->)
I spend almost as much time searching for what I consider to be the right song as I do writing the newsletter.
And it always stems, directly and indirectly, from searching for the topic of the newsletter followed by the word "song". I always strive to find a song that is actually nice to listen to (for the majority anyways) and is hopefully something that few of us have yet discovered.

This is this months newsletter song, and I think it's beautiful.

Cibelle - Green Grass - Official Video from Orquestra Galante on Vimeo.

You're Probably Never Going to Make this . . .

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Tue, 20 Dec 2011 17:00:00 +0000

But I wish you would give it a try.
Soccafisso is a dish that was pervasive at La Taverna dell' Coleonni when I was working there. As dude from the midwest, I didn't have much exposure to bacalao growing up, but I did take to it pretty quickly once I got a taste. This dish rustles up a lot of memories for me, I love it and I think you will too.
On a side note, you should give this book a read if you haven't already. It's a surprisingly interesting story of the history

Having to soak the salted fish makes this seem like a long process, but really you just have to plan ahead. Also, where there is a market for it, you can sometimes find bacalao that has been presoaked.

A salt cod emporium in Lisbon.

2 lbs dried Salt Cod (follow the preparations below)
1 lb. white onions, chopped finely
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tbsps all purpose flour
1 qt. whole milk
2 bay leaves, fresh if possible

To prepare the salt cod
1. Rinse the fish under cold running water. In a large clean vessel, submerge it water and place it in the fridge over night. In the morning, change out the water, and then again at night. Repeat this whole process for one more day. (two days and two nights total) You might be able to buy salted cod that is pre-soaked, if so you can skip this step.
2. Bring a large pot of water to a simmer. Poach the fish for 30 minutes in the simmering water. (note that there is no salt added here) The fish should be tender to bite through.
3. Pick through the cooked filets and make sure there are no bones.

Be careful to not break up the flakes too much. They will breakdown further from the stirring during cooking.

For the Stoccafisso
1. Set a heavy bottomed stock pot over medium meat. Add the olive oil and let it get nice and warm.
2. Add the onions along with the bay leaves and stir. Cook until the onions have become slightly translucent - about 8-10 minutes.

I have a little laurel tree in my yard where I score my bay leaves. I make little tears down each side to release more aroma.

3. Add the flour and stir it in well. Cooking for another 2-5 minutes.
4. Add the prepared salt cod to the mix and add enough milk to just barely cover the fish - this probably will not require the whole quart.
5. Continue to cook over medium heat, stirring often. The sauce should thicken. Make sure that it DOES NOT scald to the pan. If it does, DO NOT scrape it up and stir it in. Instead, transfer to a new pot to continue cooking.
***At this point be sure to test it for salt. ***
6. To finish the stoccafisso, transfer it to a casserole dish. Cover with a copious amount of freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano and a nice olive oil. Stick it under a broiler for long enough to get golden brown.

Serve with soft polenta.

A Big Project

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Sat, 17 Dec 2011 18:30:00 +0000

I've been blazing through a Japanese food phase. I love the simple flavors, and many of the preparations are simple, approachable, and outstandingly yummy.
Of course the questions that naturally follow - for me anyways - are,"How can I create this food from my farmers market? How can I make these ingredients from scratch - cutting out the "middleman"?"
Blah, blah, blah . . .
Fast forward, I'm staring at a cabinet full of dried beans from the farmers market. Purchased with the good intention of making my own miso. As with many other projects, I do not fully research the process until I am part of the way into it.
It turns out red miso takes at least 12-18 months to be fully ready, and many miso makers will leave it to develop for much longer. [There is sweet white miso that is ready after 3-6 months] Miso making is an ancient process refined by skilled artisans; or the "middlemen" in this scenario. It turns out they're there for a reason in some cases.

Nevertheless, I'm diving in head first in this one. After fairly extensive, if late, research - I settled on this book for guidance.

Despite the 80's workout theme, this is an awesome book. It has guided me through many funky smelling endeavors.

The process is simple . . .
The beans are soaked overnight and boiled until they are soft. They are then ground to the desired consistency, salted, and mixed with the koji - an inoculated grain - and finally packed away in a vessel to ferment of their own accord.

From left to right, vinton soy beans, adzuki beans, and black soy beans.

Koji is an inoculated grain, rice in this case, used to spur the fermentation process.

The cooked vinton soy beans, cooked, partially ground and mixed with the koji.

The miso in its pots, where it will chillax for the next 18 months.

Check back in in 18 months to see how this whole thing turns out.

How to bread better

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Wed, 14 Dec 2011 22:00:00 +0000

Last week I finally risked making chicken Milanese. It turned out great, but the breading process left a king-hell mess. What can I do to tidy up this process?

Let me start by saying that clean up is part of this game. No one knows it, or hates it, more than me. It's simply my love of cooking and eating that overcomes my distaste for dealing with the aftermath.

You can, however, take some steps to seriously limit the mess-making throughout the process, and yeild a better product as well.

Here are some tips.

Use big bowls- you'll have more space to work in. This contains the mess and let's one bread multiple pieces at a time.
Shake off the flour well- If there's a clump of flour, it's liable to break up after all is said and done. You'll loose your breading and be left with a chuck of exposed flour.
Beat well and strain the eggs- Lightly tossing the eggs with a fork does not serve here. I use a blender to thoroughly combine the eggs (and sometimes a little water). Then I pour it through a fine sieve, this removes the gloppy albumen and lessens the clumps - making the wet step a little easier.
Keep a "dry hand"- I focus on keeping my right hand dry, touching only the flour and breadcrumbs with it. With my left, I use a slotted spoon to fish stuff out of the egg wash and drain off the excess egg.
Don't bother seasoning the bread or flour - I find that for the amount of seasoning required, not enough of the flavor comes through. In other words, it's wasteful. The items that you're cooking should have enough seasoning in and of themselves.

Pics From Italy

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Tue, 13 Dec 2011 22:00:00 +0000

Recently I made a pilgrimage to Bergamo, the town in Italy that changed my cooking career. Unfortunately my camera was lost or stolen halfway through the trip, so the remainder was shot on an iphone - hence the mediocre pics.

The morning after . . .

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Sat, 10 Dec 2011 22:00:00 +0000

Unfortunately, I'm not always able (or willing) to whip up a delicious dinner. Like every other New Yorker I inevitably order in Chinese - which, inevitably, comes with too much rice.
In my house it usually becomes a simple form of fried rice the next day, or maybe a bowl on congee.
But if there is ever too much beer and/or wine consumed with my take out, then the left over rice is reserved for one purpose - making the morning after a little less hazy.
This recipe will cure what ails you, but it does need leftover rice to really comes out as intended.

Crispy Rice and Fried Eggs

2 cups of white rice that has been cooked and then refrigerated overnight.
4 eggs
Optional: Sriracha

1. Place a heavy bottomed skillet, preferably cast iron or black steel, over medium heat and give it a good 5 minutes or so to heat up well.
2. In the skillet, put enough vegetable oil (corn, canola, peanut, etc) to coat the cooking surface well. Leftover rice gets clumpy after a night in the fridge. using your hands, break the rice clumps up into the pan.
3. Use a metal spatula to disperse the rice evenly across the cooking surface. You should hear a slight sizzle, if it goes silent, or if you see burning, add a little more oil. Cook for 4-5 minutes.

4. Use a spatula to flip the rice in big segments. It should look golden and feel crispy. Again, break up the clumps and distribute evenly through the pan. Cook for 4-5 minutes. Repeat this as many times as it takes to get crispy rice throughout. Take your time, and let it get nice and crunchy. Transfer the rice to your serving bowls.

5. Wipe out the pan and add enough oil. Fry the eggs to however you like them. Douse with sriracha and enjoy.

I'm been making miso soup from the packet. It's fine but I'd like to build a more distinct flavor. Is there an easy way to do this?

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Thu, 01 Dec 2011 17:15:00 +0000

If you've ever enjoyed anything but sushi in a Japanese restaurant, chances are you've devoured more than a few preparations with a foundation of dashi - a fragrant, delicious broth. It is the base for tentsuyu, that liquid dip for tempura that I always sip when no one is looking. It turns up in dressings, in marinades, and it is what composes the ubiquitous miso soup.
Because of the exacting nature of Japanese cuisine, it can be intimidating. Having heard stories of sushi chefs passing their first eight years in the kitchen mastering the technique for sushi rice - I have steered clear of the cuisine for the sake of terror.
Which is unfortunate, because much of it is startlingly simple, involving few ingredients, few steps, and yielding delicious results. Dashi Epitomizes this, with two ingredients and 15 minutes cook time, and it leaves you with a delicious and very versatile product.

Kombu (aka- kelp) - A long and tall type of seaweed that is harvested from shallow waters around Japan. Bigger pieces are typically considered to be better. And don't sweat the powdery look of the surface, it is a naturally occurring form of MSG. (I really like this article about the stuff)

Katsuobushi (aka- bonito flakes) - Usually made from bonito, a fish not so different from a small tuna, is produced by a process of cooking, drying and smoking that leaves you with a condensed plank of fish-goodness. Traditionally this would be shaved as needed using what looks like a wood plane. These days this is very tough to find, but most Asian markets will carry some form of katsuobushi flakes. Just check the label [translation] to make sure that it contains only bonito. Cheaper options sometimes contain mackerel or other fish, and this results in a fishier dashi. (though I held out hopes that it wouldn't)

I've read countless recipes for dashi, calling for different amounts of ingredients in various forms of measurement - I don't understand what four inches of kombu is and wouldn't risk a "handful" of bonito flakes. I use weight in this recipe, but you should know that it doesn't have to be so precise, you'll still achieve a delicious broth. I also use a higher ratio of bonito than most recipes call for, maybe the bonito close to my house is weaker or maybe I just prefer a stronger bonito flavor.

Dashi

50g kombu (about 1.75 oz.)
50g katsobushi (about 1.75 oz.)
4 quarts water

1. Place the kombu and water in a medium sized stock pot. Let this sit for between 30 minutes and 2 hours. This rehydrates the seaweed. (some recipes call for 12-24 hrs soaking, some for non at all)
2. Place this pot over medium high heat and watch it - a watched pot never boils - and that's the point. Just before boiling, turn off the heat. Remove the kombu and set it aside. - Boiling kombu releases very intense flavors and not-so-good flavors.

Look for signs such as foam starting to form and vigorous steaming. Kill the heat at the first sign of bubbling.

3. Immediately add the katsuobushi and let this steep for exactly ten minutes.
4. Dump this liquid through a very fine strainer lined with a tea towel, cheese cloth or coffee filter.

It should be a feint and transparent tan color and smell terrific.

That's it, you've made dashi.
Now what? Bring it to just below a simmer and stir in some miso, tofu, wakame seaweed, and any veggies you like and you have miso soup. Add mirin and soy sauce and you've got tentsuyu, that tasty tempura dip.
Or my favorite, lightly simmer various vegetables in the dashi. The veggies take on the delicious smokey flavor of the dashi, and they lend some interesting aroma to the broth.

You can also re-boil the used kombu and katsuobushi for 10 minutes for a second broth. It will be stronger in kombu flavor and a little murkier, but still delicious.

Shitake mushrooms, Japanese sweet potatoes, carrots, kabocha squash, leeks, hard boiled eggs, various radishes and shredded kombu (the one used to make the dashi) all simmered in dashi.

Easy Weekday Curry

noreply@blogger.com (Lauren) — Wed, 30 Nov 2011 22:56:00 +0000

By Lauren Rauh

Craving Indian? It can be less labor intensive than you may think to whip up a delicious Indian meal. At an oversimplified level, Indian food is all about the spices, with a few key cooking techniques thrown in. The following recipe is a curry at its fundamentals! The tomatoes and cabbage can be swapped out for any vegetables of choice. Add a protein of your liking as well and you have a meal! Just a note: of the spices listed, only mustard seeds are whole, the rest are in their ground form. Cumin, coriander, and fenugreek are often sold whole or ground. Freshly ground will give you a better flavor, but ground is still great.

You Will Need:

2 Tbsp. olive oil

1 Tbsp. Mustard seeds

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 inch ginger, minced

1 Tbsp. each ground Turmeric, Coriander, Garam Masala, Cumin, Fenugreek,

1 teaspoon Chili powder

½ teaspoon cayenne

2 medium tomatoes, diced

1 small head, or half large head cabbage, chopped

½ cup red lentils

¼ teaspoon salt

Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium high heat in a Dutch oven or heavy bottomed pot. Add the mustard seeds (and any other whole spices you use). Fry the seeds until they become fragrant and start to pop.

Add the garlic and ginger and stir frequently to avoid burning (reduce the heat, if necessary). In a small bowl mix the remaining spices (powdered spices) and a few tablespoons of water into a paste. Add the paste and tomatoes to the pot.

Cook over medium heat until the tomatoes begin to break apart (about 10 minutes). Add the cabbage, lentils, and salt. Stir the ingredients to fully incorporate the spice/tomato mixture. Add enough water to nearly cover the cabbage and bring the pot to a boil.

Simmer the curry until the cabbage softens, the lentils break apart, and the liquid is mostly evaporated. Season to taste. Serve hot with condiments and accompaniments of choice (naan, rice, yogurt, chutney….).

Ok, so...my sister is hosting Thanksgiving this year at her and her boyfriend's place. Backgound: Her boyfriend is actually a damn good cook...I'm wondering if you can help me out with a killer Mashed Potato recipe which will prove that I can be a force in the kitchen. I need a head turner dude!

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Tue, 22 Nov 2011 01:40:00 +0000

As the holidays are about to sweep over us, we take a deep breath and brace for the surge. The travel, the family chatter, the tossing, and turning. Undoubtedly, they'll leave us gasping for air, stiff, and on the hunt for a roll of tums.
The silver lining, for most, is the prospect of a decent home cooked meal surrounded by people who don't judge you for showing up with a can of cranberry gel and a bottle of ranch dressing.
And if you hale from somewhere between New York and Los Angeles some part of a meal will be draped/sloshed/dumped over a foundation of mashed potatoes.

Despite being a simple preparation with only a few ingredients and steps, there is a slew of variables that, if gone awry, can become less than edible. Maybe it is because of it's simplicity that people feel as though they can take license, and glue ensues.
And, despite all of the fuss, rumors and their "easier to use" dehydrated brothers, mashed potatoes are easy to make.

I'm including a delicious recipe, but this entry is more about damage control.

Do

Use a starchy potato or a combination of starchy potatoes. - including but not limited to - russet (aka Idaho), yukon gold, la ratte, fingerlings, many purple varieties, et al. (waxy varieties such as new potatoes and creamers are crush-able, but don't really yield a nicely "mashed" potato)
Season your potatoes well with salt. They're gonna need it, since starch is a flavor thief.
Use cold butter, as room temp or melted butter doesn't fully incorporate in to the mash.

Never Ever

Use a mechanical device to mash or whip your potatoes. You're liable to rip open the starches, giving them a pasty consistency - the worst fate for a mashed potato. It is not the mashing that releases the starches, it the re-mashing. For this reason a ricer or food mill as ideal since it mashes only once, where a food processor beats on a starch over and over until it resembles Elmer's.

Variations and Comments
Yes, there is some serious butter in this recipe, but in truth it is less than what I actually put and only a fraction of what you'll find in many high end restaurants (Joel Robuchon's famous mash is rumored to be almost half butter with no cream).

A potato ricer looks like a big garlic press.

If you wanted to add various flavor components to these potatoes for extra pizzazz, then by all means. I love them with a small handful of Parmigiano Reggiano. Blue cheese would be nice, as would roasted garlic.
You could also sub in some other root veggies such as celery root, parsnips, sunchokes, etc.
All of these you would simply add in the final step.

Very Yummy Mashed Potatoes

2 lbs Starchy Potatoes, peeled, rinsed well and cut into roughly 1" cubes*
5 tbls spoons of cold butter
1/4 cup heavy cream

1. Place, your prepped potatoes in a sauce pan or pot, cover with cold water, add a hefty pinch of salt and set over high heat. Once this comes to a boil, lower the heat to medium and continue cooking (aprox 25 min.) until the potatoes are cooked through. (a fork should easily break them up, or an inserted paring knife should come out easily.)
2. Strain the potatoes.
3-A - For a smooth mash, use a food mill or a potato ricer, process the potatoes back into the pot and GENTLY fold in the butter and cream.
3-B - For a more lumpy mash, simply return the potatoes to the pot along with the butter and cream and mash the potatoes with a whisk or potato masher to the desired texture.

Serve with just about anything!

* If you're at all conscious of "organic" labels and natural growing practices, potatoes are the place to to put your foot down. Conventional potatoes are hit with many kinds of pesticides, both on their leaves and sewn directly into the ground where they grow. Then, in some cases, an herbicide is used on their leaves and stems to make for easier harvesting. Then they're charged with anti-maturing agents so that they don't turn green and sprout. Not many of these chemicals have been around long enough to be proven carcinogens, but neither have they been subject to rigorous testing for safety of human consumption. So you're essentially deciding whether or not you'd like to be part of a giant sample group when you buy conventional potatoes.

A Better Butternut Squash Soup

noreply@blogger.com (Lauren) — Thu, 17 Nov 2011 17:00:00 +0000

by Lauren Rauh

I can never ever get enough butternut squash, but sometimes I do find myself tiring of the same old butternut squash soup. This one is a little different and will keep you cozy and warm through out the cold weather months. The addition of apple compliments and heightens the sweetness of the squash and the celery root brings it back down to earth.

I roasted the squash whole as well as the diced apple and celery root. Though this creates an extra step in the production of this soup, roasting the ingredients first creates such a wonderful, comforting flavor. Another bonus is that you don’t need to peel the butternut, which is perhaps one of the most annoying prep tasks. Though the soup stands well alone, I gave some garnishing ideas at the end of the recipe. Also, this recipe makes a ton of soup, so feed a crowd or freeze some for an easy weekday meal.

(serves 10-12)

The goods:

3 lbs. butternut squash

2 apples, diced

1 medium size celery root, peeled and diced

2 Tablespoons olive oil

1 leek, thinly sliced

2 inches fresh ginger, minced

1.5 Tablespoons cumin

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Halve the butternut and scoop out the seeds. Place the halves face down on a baking sheet and roast in the oven for about 30 minutes, until the skin is easily pierced with a fork.

While the squash is roasting, dice the apples and celery root and toss them with a tablespoon of olive oil. Bake the apples and roots until they are tender.

In a Dutch oven or, medium saucepot, heat two tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Sweat the leek and garlic for about five minutes. Add cumin and sweat for a few more minutes, until the leeks are soft and fragrant.

When the roasted squash has cooled scoop the flesh out of the skin and stir it into the Dutch oven. Add the celery root and apple, cover the contents with water (or a mild stock) and bring the pot to a boil. Simmer the ingredients for about 20 minutes, adding more water if necessary. Season with salt and pepper.

When the soup is seasoned and simmered to your liking, use and immersion blender to blend the ingredients to a puree (or process in batches in a blender).

It's delicious thick, but if you prefer it thinner simply add more stock or water.

Serve with…

A dollop of crème fraiche or sour cream

Basil/cilantro pesto

Squash/pumpkin seed pesto

Grated Parmesan

"Truly" Organic Apples

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Tue, 15 Nov 2011 02:03:00 +0000

In my last newsletter I briefly discussed finding truly organic apples. I came across some last week and thought I would share the picture.
The sign says, "with the blemishes to prove it!"
They look pretty gnarly, but they're tasty little guys.

What's Jamaican?

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Thu, 10 Nov 2011 18:35:00 +0000

I'm making rice and peas (kidney beans actually), thank you for asking.
The "peas" refers to pigeon peas, and ingredient common to India, Africa, and the West Indies.

It's super easy, but a step in a different direction from the usual beans and rice. It's also pretty foolproof. (Though I might have just jinxed you.)

Jamaican "Rice and Peas"
3 Scallions, roots trimmed, nasty outer leaves removed
4 garlic cloves, smashed
1 habanero, crushed (put two because I love the heat)
1 can red kidney beans (or pigeon peas) drained and rinsed
1 can coconut milk
2 cups, white long grain rice

1. In a medium sauce pan, pour 2 1/2 cups of water along with the scallions, garlic, habanero, and pigeon peas. Bring this to a boil over medium high heat, lower and simmer and cook for 10 minutes.
2. Add the coconut milk and raise the heat to high again. Once it boils stir in the rice.
3. Bring to a boil one more time. Reduce the the heat to low, and cover. Cook for 20 minutes.

Im kind of in love with this preparation. It's rice and beans, with some extra punch.
It also happens to be the perfect side kick to jerk chicken.

Your One a Day [apples] in A New Way...

noreply@blogger.com (Lauren) — Sun, 06 Nov 2011 23:00:00 +0000

By Lauren Rauh

Nothing says autumn like a fresh apple right off the tree (well, maybe roasted butternut squash, or pumpkin, or winter greens…. I love this season!) I went apple picking two weekends ago and filled a ½ bushel bag with beautiful, crisp apples. The perfect sunny, clear, and cool fall day just begged for a celebration of fall, and celebrate I did, with a brisk hike, a bountiful apple harvest, and a sundrenched lunch by the Hudson with a great friend.

Just a week later, I found myself waxing nostalgic as I looked out on the Northeaster that brought winter weather too early to the city. I decided to shake my cold weather blues by spending time in the kitchen with the apples from my day in the country. I had split the ½ bushel with my friend which left me with about 12 lbs. of apples—more than enough for a huge variety of apple applications!

My next couple posts will focus on apples, and I will try to present new and exciting ways to cook them. Apple pie is a favorite for a good reason, but apples are surprisingly versatile and do not need to be pigeonholed to pastry. Apples can add complexity of taste and texture to savory dishes too. Here’s a pilaf of sorts with a very mild flavor, perfect to accompany any autumn meal. Note: This recipe is best with an apple that holds its shape after cooking, think Rome, or Granny Smith.

You will need:

Three medium apples, cored and ½-inch diced

One small white (or two cipollini) onions, thinly sliced

2 tsp. dried sage

2 Tbsp. olive oil

1 ½ cups water or stock (veg or meat)

¾ cup millet (or grain of choice - Bulgar, quinoa, rice)

2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil (for finishing)

Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Toss the apples and onions with 2 Tbsp. olive oil and season with sage, salt, and pepper (Don't forget to season with salt and pepper). Distribute the apples across a baking sheet and place in the oven.

Bake the apples for about 15 to 20 minutes or until the peel has faded in color and the pieces are slightly soft to the touch (but not mushy!). Stir the apples and onions occasionally to prevent sticking and encourage even cooking.

While the apples bake, heat a cast iron skillet, or a heavy bottomed pan. Add the millet and briefly toast the grains in the hot, dry pan.

The grains should become very fragrant and start to pop. At this point add the water and bring the pot to a boil. Lower the heat and cover the pot. The grains should be fully cooked in about 20 minutes, but check the pot frequently to make sure the water has not evaporated away and left behind burning uncooked grains. The cooked millet should be light, fluffy, and dry.

Combine the apples, onions, and grains in a bowl. Add the additional oil, salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot or at room temperature.

The Brooklyn grange Needs Your Vote

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Sat, 05 Nov 2011 03:49:00 +0000

The Brooklyn Grange (Rooftop farm in LIC) has been nominated for the BBC's world challenge. Ben and the Farm need your vote. Simply click the link below and click on "vote for this project". Here is Ben's request . . .

Hey Everybody,

I'm writing to ask for your vote in this year's BBC WORLD CHALLENGE.  

Two years ago, I started the Brooklyn Grange, a rooftop farm with a great group. We intensively grow vegetables on a 1-acre soil-covered rooftop, and sell them to local restaurants and farmer's markets around New York. We also have bees, chickens, kids, and we launched an educational non-profit this year. It's a busy place.

  Recently, the farm was chosen as one of twelve finalists in the BBC World Challenge, a competition that rewards folks who are turning niche sustainability concepts into business models. It's an impressive group of 12 finalists who were selected for the challenge, and we are the only rep from the US, so we are very proud to be in the runnings. After the votes are tallied, the top 3 all receive cash prizes, which would be really helpful as we're preparing to start a 2nd location next spring.

Click on this link to vote: http://www.theworldchallenge.co.uk/finalists/7/Vertigo_Farming.
Voting ends on November 11th. And please spread the word by any means - we can use it! And send me a note, or come to the farm!

Best,

Ben

A jerk you can stand to be around. . .

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Tue, 01 Nov 2011 15:47:00 +0000

[This entry is from one of last year's newsletters. I just made some today, so I thought I'd post it to the blog. As it is freaking delicious!]

Jamaican Jerk seasoning plays a strange role on the stage of American food. Its strong cultural ties solicit the ooohs and ahhhs usually associated with ethnic fare, but most people pass it over because of its spicy reputation.   There are diluted versions in popular restaurants, but chances are pretty slim that any of you have ever had the real deal. True Jerk. (I haven't) This is because a big part of the flavor of True Jerk comes from slow grilling over coals and as many branches of allspice as you can get to catch on fire. This dilemma accompanies almost all ethnic culinary staples: they always require a list of exotic ingredients prepared in complicated ways with unusual tools.
All you really need to make great jerk is a blender, a few chili peppers, a Bob Marley cd, and some common staples.
The tricky part is finding the right chili peppers and knowing how to build in the right amount of heat for you. Jalepenos or serranos won't do, they just don't have the same character. Once you have that in order you can put your Jerk seasoning on just about anything.

It starts with Scotch Bonnet peppers or Habanero peppers. They're in season right now, so try your farmers market. They’re very similar, some even claim they’re the same. It’s a very fine line. They have a similar aroma, indicative of Jerk, and are equally excruciating when is comes to heat. And you can offset their heat some by subbing in another, less in-your-face pepper, such as Aji Dulce and Grenada or Trinidad Seasoning Peppers. There is also the more readily-available Poblano pepper, which is a great compliment to a homemade Almost True Jerk.

**When toying with serious chilies be aware that whatever touches them becomes a weapon of chemical warfare.   So wear a glove, wash your hands well and don't make any absent-minded trips to the bathroom.

Almost True Jerk Seasoning
1 bunch of scallions
1 shallot
8oz. chili peppers, stems removed
3 cloves of garlic
1 tsp of all spice (freshly ground if you can)
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp nutmeg
1/2 tsp black pepper
1/4 cup vegetable oil (corn, canola, soy, etc.)
3 tbsps soy sauce

1. Place all of the ingredients in a blender and puree until it becomes a semi-smooth paste.
(There's only one step, but I numbered it anyways for clarification. Dont be a smart a**!)

The final product: it aint exactly pretty but it does taste good.

In this recipe I call for a specified cumulative weight of peppers. You can mix and match hot (or not-so-hot) peppers as long as they weigh eight ounces. You could seed the peppers if you want to; some people do this because its removes a significant amount of heat, but it also removes a significant amount of flavor, so I prefer to err on the side of using less spicy peppers and leaving the seeds intact.

Now you have your Jerk you can put it on literally anything. It’s most traditionally applied to chicken.   You would rub it onto the chicken, let it marinate overnight, and then grill or roast it. Pork chops would be great too, or a slow roasted pork butt. I love it on veggies and have even been spotted putting a spoonful or two into the foundation of rice and beans.

I found a peculiar cut that you don’t always come across: lamb “riblets” (aka lamb breast). This whole side of ribs ran me about 7 bucks, and it turned out to be a great vehicle for my Jerk seasoning. I just marinated it and then roasted it at 325 degrees for several hours . . . mmmmmmmmm

I've recently gotten into cooking fish, but I'm terrible at it. What can I do to improve my technique a little??

noreply@blogger.com (Joshua Stokes) — Fri, 28 Oct 2011 02:49:00 +0000

Cooking fish can be a very a misunderstood thing. A lot of mongers and mothers rattle off rules of thumb that don't really work in the end.

For instance, "bake for 20 minutes @ 425˚F". I hear this for almost every fish, regardless of size or shape. This is too hot and too long for just about any fish I'd suggest eating.

Have you ever played shuffle board at a bar? You slide a heavy metal disk down a wooden game board. The goal is to get the disc to come to a stop in just the right place. It requires a very delicate hand.

In many cooked fish, a little color is fine as long as it flakes.

Cooking fish, or anything for that matter, is very much the same. The fish is moving down a spectrum from raw to cooked, and the idea is that the fish stops cooking in just the right place.
In shuffle board, you can't put too much power behind it, or it will fly right off the board every time. As well with fish, a hot oven is bound to push you over the edge. To get the fish to just the right place, you have to give it a gentle push - at a gentler heat (325˚F) and pull it out of the oven at the right moment, such that the cooking of the fish slows to a stop in just the right place.

Where's that place? It depends on the fish. The size of the piece and the width. Will you sear it first?
Just give yourself some leeway - pull it on the early side - you can always cook it more. For flaky fish, you can give it a firm but gentle press with a finger, feeling for the flakes to separate slightly. For a fat piece, feel the sides. They should look opaque and feel firm. Also, expect fat pieces of fish to carry over more.

If you see white stuff seeping out of your fish - you've gone WAY too far. That shouldn't happen.

ALSO, I say this all of the time, but it holds especially true with fish - You have to buy the best you can find. Fish is not the place to try to save a few bucks, you need to find the best. No amount of finesse or know-how will set bad fish straight.

I used swordfish in this recipe, a fish that is notoriously terrible when over cooked.

Mediterranean Style Fish with Almonds and Dried Fruit

If you're peeler leaves pith, cut it out.

2 lbs Sturdy fish, cut into 1 inch cubes (swordfish, mahi mahi, halibut, tuna, etc)
1 Shallot, sliced thinly
1/2 roasted almonds, roughly chopped
1/4 cup dried fruit (cranberry, cherry, raisin, etc.
One Lemon, zest peeled-pith removed - juice reserved
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Nice extra virgin olive oil

1. Heat a heavy bottomed skillet over medium heat.
2. Toss the fish with salt, freshly ground black pepper and enough oil to lightly coat.
3. Working in two batches, sear the cubes of fish on a few sides. It's bettaer not to be OCD about hitting each side because it will overcook the fish. Four sides is enough.
4. Set the fish aside and in the same pan, add a little oil to lube the surface and drop in the sliced shallot and cook for one minute. Add the lemon peel, almonds, and dried fruit. Stir well to combine.
5. Kill the heat and return the fish to the pan and toss well. Squeeze over the lemon juice and finish with a few generous tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil.

I actually just used a nut mix for this. It was perfect.

Taste for seasoning. Make sure it has enough salt. This dish should also be nice and tangy, so another lemon's worth of juice may be in order.

This was yummy!