1000 Years of the City of the Soaring Dragon

Celebration of Ly dynasty founding

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Sun, 27 Sep 2009 10:14:00 +0700

Bac Ninh, Vietnam - A grand ceremony has been held at the Den Do Shrine to celebrate the 1000th anniversary of the the founding of the Ly dynasty.

The ceremony began with performances of quan ho, a traditional type of folk music in northern Vietnam.

At 8 sharp, the drum beats signal the incense offering ceremony to Ly Thai To, who laid foundation for the prosperity of the Vietnamese nation and culture. This year's ceremony attracted more visitors than previous ones as this is one of the activities prior to the Great Anniversary of Thang Long in 2010.

After assuming the throne, Ly Thai To decided to move the capital from Hoa Lu (present-day Ninh Binh) to Dai La, which was later renamed Thang Long (present-day Hanoi).

The Den Do Shrine, dedicated to the 8 kings of the Ly, was built in the 11th century in Bac Ninh province. Through the ages the shrine had been renovated and expanded many times but was completely destroyed by the French invaders in 1952.

Since 1989 the shrine has been gradually reconstructed with concerted efforts of both the government and the local residents.

Blue of volunteers fill Hanoi bus stations and streets

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Wed, 1 Jul 2009 22:40:00 +0700

As the 2009 University and College Entrance Examination (UCEE) is nearing, tens of thousands of students from various provinces are rushing to Hanoi to attend the exam. The volunteers with blue shirts are also ready to complete the Exam Assistance Programme successfully.

At Giap Bat bus station, the Song Ma voluntary team are enthusiastic about fulfilling their task in helping the UCEE examinees and their folks.

Nguyen Ngoc Tung, from the Hanoi University of Technology, said: "My team consists of 27 members from 15 different universities. Our task is to tell the way, direct examinees and their parents to the exam venues, introduce cheap and free lodgings."

When being interviewd, the examinees and their parents express their gratitude to the whole-hearted support and assistance of the preceeding students, which makes examinees feel more comfortable and relaxed before the decisive exams.

Temple of Literature destination of examinees

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 23:53:00 +0700

As a common practice, the Temple of Literature is the most popular destination of students ahead of any examination, in particular the university entrance exam.

Examinees rushed to the Temple to offer incense and pray for good luck.

Students visiting the Temple of Literature come from almost all provinces in the north of Vietnam.

Tuan from Hanoi told the reporter that he had touched the tortoise head and achieved good results in the high school final exam.

He believed that the old tortoises gave him good luck. This time, in the run-up to the important college entrance exam, he once came here in search of good luck.

Besides students, even pre-schoolchildren, who are to enter the first grade, also come here with their parents to look for good fortune.

When being asked, students said they are not superstitious but they still came to the Temple of Literature before the exam so that they feel better, more relaxed after days of stress.

Diep said: "I think the exam results mainly depend on our own efforts, visiting the Temple is just a means to relieve stress and refresh my self."

As observed thousands of students came to touch the old tortoises' head to pray for good luck.

Touching the tortoise before exams is believed to bring good luck to examinees.

Getting there and around

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Wed, 29 Apr 2009 21:40:00 +0700

Getting there & away

Land

Bus & minibus

Hanoi has several main long-distance bus stations and each one serves a particular area. They are fairly well organised, with ticket offices, fixed prices and printed schedules. You should consider buying tickets the day before you plan to travel on the longer-distance routes to ensure a seat.

In central Hanoi, Kim Ma bus station (cnr Pho Nguyen Thai Hoc & Pho Giang Vo) has buses to the northwestern part of Vietnam, including Hoa Binh (25, 000d, two hours) and Dien Bien Phu (120, 000d, 16 hours).

Gia Lam bus station (827 1569; Ð Ngoc Lam) is the place for buses to points northeast of Hanoi. These include Halong Bay (40, 000d, 3½ hours), Haiphong (35, 000d, two hours), and Lang Son (50, 000d, three hours) and Lao Cai (53, 000d, nine hours), both near the Chinese border. The bus station is 2km northeast of the centre – cross the Song Hong (Red River) to get there. Cyclos can’t cross the bridge, so take a taxi (around 30, 000d) or motorbike. More convenient is the Loung Yen bus station in the southeast of town, serving the same places, plus Cao Bang (80, 000d, eight hours) and Ha Giang (76, 000d, seven hours).

Giap Bat bus station (864 1467; Ð Giai Phong) serves points south of Hanoi, including Ninh Binh (28, 000d, two hours) and Hué (80, 000d, 12 hours). It is 7km south of the Hanoi train station.

My Dinh bus station (768 5549, Ð Pham Hung) is another option in the west of town, which serves a range of destinations, including Halong City, Lang Son, Cao Bang, Ha Giang and Dien Bien Phu.

Tourist-style minibuses can be booked through most hotels and cafés. Popular destinations include Halong Bay and Sapa.

Many open-ticket tours through Vietnam start or finish in Hanoi.

Car & motorcycle

To hire a car with a driver, contact a hotel, travellers café or travel agency. The main roads in the northeast are generally OK, but in parts of the northwest they can be dire in the wet season and only suitable for a 4WD.

The average cost for a six-day trip in a Russian jeep is about US$300 per person, including the jeep, a driver and petrol. These old jeeps fit only two passengers and are pretty uncomfortable: they’re dusty and hot, or damp and cold, depending on the weather. For a smarter Japanese air-con 4WD, double the rate. The price usually includes the driver’s expenses, and it’s a good idea to clarify this.

If you plan to tour the north by bike, there are several good outfits that can arrange guides and rentals and help with itinerary planning.

The 125cc Russian-made Minsk is the best overall bike for touring the north – you’ll need this kind of power for the mountainous regions, and all mechanics know how to fix them. Quality of rental motorbikes can be extremely variable, so try to find a reputable dealer, especially if you’re planning long trips.

For the most reliable Minsk rental in town, make for Cuong’s Motorbike Adventure (926 1534; 1 Pho Luong Ngoc Quyen). Cuong rents out bikes for US$5 a day, including a full range of spares and a repair manual.

For more on the mighty Minsk, check out the official website of the Minsk Club (www.minskclubvietnam.com). Its motto is ‘In Minsk We Trust’ and the site is full of useful information on the motorbike and the mountains to explore.

Train

The main Hanoi train station (Ga Hang Co; 825 3949; 120 Ð Le Duan; ticket office 7.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-7.30pm) is at the western end of Pho Tran Hung Dao; trains from here go to destinations south. Foreigners can buy tickets for southbound trains at counter 2, where the staff speak English. It’s often best to buy tickets at least one day before departure to ensure a seat or sleeper.

To the right of the main entrance of the train station is a separate ticket office for northbound trains to Lao Cai (for Sapa) and China. Tickets to China must be bought from counter 13.

However, the place where you purchase the ticket is not necessarily where the train departs. Just behind the main ‘A Station’ on Ð Le Duan is Tran Quy Cap station (B Station; Pho Tran Qui Cap; 825 2628) and all northbound trains leave from there.

To make things even more complicated, some northbound (Lao Cai and Lang Son included) and eastbound (Haiphong) trains depart from Gia Lam on the eastern side of the Song Hong (Red River), and Long Bien (826 8280) on the western (city) side of the river. Be sure to ask just where you need to go to catch your train. Tickets can be bought at the main station until about two hours before departure; if it’s any closer to the departure time, go to the relevant station and buy tickets there.

Check with Vietnam Rail (Duong Sat Viet Nam; www.vr.com.vn) for current timetables.

Air

Hanoi has fewer direct international flights than HCMC, but with a change of aircraft in Hong Kong or Bangkok you can get to almost anywhere.

Vietnam Airlines (943 9660; www.vietnamair.com.vn; 25 Pho Trang Thi; 7am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8-11.30am & 1.30-5pm Sat, Sun & holidays) links Hanoi to destinations throughout Vietnam. Popular routes include Hanoi to Danang, Dien Bien Phu, HCMC, Hué and Nha Trang, all served daily.

Pacific Airlines (974 5555; 193 Ð Ba Trieu) has daily flights to Danang and HCMC.

Getting around

Car & motorbike

For travellers well versed in the ways of Asian cities, Hanoi is a lot of fun to explore by motorbike. Most guesthouses and hotels can arrange new motorbikes for around US$5 a day. However, for the uninitiated, it is not the easiest place to learn. Traffic conditions are definitely not as orderly as home, and driving at night can be dangerous, particularly crossing the busy junctions with no traffic lights. Then there are the hassles of dealing with parking and possible theft. It’s also easy to unknowingly violate road rules, in which case the police will help you part with some cash.

Bus & tram

Bus

There are now more than 60 public bus lines serving routes in and around Hanoi. The buses are clean and comfortable, and the fare is just 3500d: only walking would be cheaper. Pick up a copy of the Xe Buyt Ha Noi (Hanoi bus map; 3000d) from recommended bookstores on Pho Trang Tien. It is all in Vietnamese but easy enough to follow with routes and numbers clearly marked.

Local transport

Taxi

There are several companies in Hanoi offering metered taxi services. All charge similar rates. Flag fall is around 10, 000d to 15, 000d, which takes you one or two kilometres; every kilometre thereafter costs about 8000d. Bear in mind that there are lots of dodgy operators with high-speed meters. Try and use the more reliable companies:

Airport Taxi (873 3333)

Hanoi Taxi (853 5353)

Mai Linh Taxi (822 2666)

Taxi CP (824 1999)

Bicycle

A good way to get around Hanoi is by bicycle, although the traffic can be daunting at first. Many guesthouses and cafés offer these for rent for about US$1 to US$2 per day.

Lonely Planet

Practical information

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Wed, 29 Apr 2009 21:34:00 +0700

Money

ANZ Bank (825 8190; 14 Pho Le Thai To; 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) On the western edge of Hoan Kiem Lake, this international bank has cash advances in dong and dollar with a 24-hour ATM.

Industrial & Commercial Bank (825 4276; 37 Pho Hang Bo) In a convenient location in the Old Quarter, it cashes travellers cheques at the standard 0.5% commission for dong, 1.25% for US dollars and 3% for credit-card cash advances.

Vietcombank Pho Hang Bai (826 8031; 2 Pho Hang Bai); Pho Tran Quang Khai (826 8045; 198 Pho Tran Quang Khai) The towering HQ is located a few blocks east of Hoan Kiem Lake and it has an ATM and offers most currency services. Several smaller branches are scattered around town, including a handy one on Pho Hang Bai, near Hoan Kiem Lake.

Health & safety

Dangers & annoyances

Back in the bad old days, Hanoi used to be the hardest place to travel in Vietnam, then in the late 1990s things improved massively. More recently it has become the capital of hotel and tour scams in Vietnam, so be sure to keep your antennae up. We have heard several substantiated reports of verbal aggression and physical violence towards tourists when deciding against a hotel room or tour. Stay calm and back away slowly or things could quickly flare up. Some Western women have been hassled by young men around town who follow them home, so it pays to hit the town in larger numbers. Walking alone in well-lit areas of the Old Quarter is usually safe, but stay alert in the darker streets, particularly in the early hours of the morning. When getting from one part of town to the other at night, particularly from late-night spots, it is more sensible for solo women, and even men, to take a metered taxi or xe om.

Scams

The biggest scams in town are inextricably linked. The taxi and minibus mafia at the airport shuttle unwitting tourists to the wrong hotel. Invariably, the hotel has appropriated the name of another popular property and will then attempt to appropriate as much of your money as possible.

Gay men should be aware of a scam going on around the Hoan Kiem Lake. It starts with a friendly stranger approaching a foreigner and suggesting a night out. This leads to a kar aoke bar and a private room for a few drinks and some songs. The bill arrives and it’s mira culously US$100 or more. The situation deteriorates from here and ends in extortion. Be careful and follow your instincts. Subtle variations on this theme involving Western men and local women have been going on for years, and few ‘victims’ think of it as a scam.

Lonely Planet

History of Hanoi

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Wed, 29 Apr 2009 21:32:00 +0700

History

The site where Hanoi stands today has been inhabited since the Neolithic period. Emperor Ly Thai To moved his capital here in AD 1010, naming it Thang Long (City of the Soaring Dragon). There should be some spectacular celebrations in honour of the 1000th birthday of the city in 2010. The decision by Emperor Gia Long, founder of the Nguyen dynasty in 1802, to rule from Hué relegated Hanoi to the status of a regional capital for a century.

Down the centuries, Hanoi has been called many names, including Dong Kinh (Eastern Capital), from which the Europeans derived the name they eventually applied to all of northern Vietnam – Tonkin. The city was named Hanoi (The City in a Bend of the River) by Emperor Tu Duc in 1831. From 1902 to 1953, Hanoi served as the capital of French Indochina.

Hanoi was proclaimed the capital of Vietnam after the August Revolution of 1945, but it was not until the Geneva Accords of 1954 that the Viet Minh, driven from the city by the French in 1946, were able to return.

During the American War, US bombing destroyed parts of Hanoi and killed hundreds of civilians; almost all the damage has since been repaired. One of the prime targets was the 1682m-long Long Bien Bridge, originally built between 1888 and 1902 under the direction of the same architect who designed the Eiffel Tower in Paris. US aircraft repeatedly bombed the strategic bridge, yet after each attack the Vietnamese managed to improvise replacement spans and return it to road and rail services. It is said that the US military ended the attacks when US prisoners of war (POWs) were put to work repairing the bridge.

Lonely Planet

Introducing Hanoi

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Wed, 29 Apr 2009 21:24:00 +0700

Introducing Hanoi

Imagine a city where the exotic chic of old Asia blends with the dynamic face of new Asia. Where the medieval and modern co-exist. A city with a blend of Parisian grace and Asian pace, an architectural museum piece evolving in harmony with its history, rather than bulldozing through like many of the region’s capitals. Hanoi is where imagination becomes reality.

A mass of motorbikes swarms through the tangled web of streets that is the Old Quarter, a cauldron of commerce for almost 1000 years and still the best place to check the pulse of this resurgent city. Hawkers in conical hats ply their wares, locals sip coffee and bia hoi (beer) watching life (and plenty of tourists) pass them by. Witness synchronised t’ai chi at dawn on the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake while goateed grandfathers tug at their wisps over the next chess move. See the bold and beautiful dine at designer restaurants and cut the latest moves on the dance floor. Hanoi has it all: the ancient history, a colonial legacy and a modern outlook. There is no better place to untangle the paradox that is modern Vietnam.

The grand old dame of Asia, Hanoi lay in a deep slumber after Vietnam’s partition in 1954 until the effects of economic reforms kicked in four decades later. The city survived American bombs and Russian planners to emerge relatively unscathed in the early 1990s as an example of a French-conceived colonial city. Huge mansions line grand boulevards, and lakes and parks dot the city, providing a romantic backdrop to the nonstop soundtrack. There are still moments of Paris, as the smell of baguettes and café au lait permeates street corners.

Known by many names down the centuries, Thanh Long (City of the Soaring Dragon) is the most evocative, and let there be no doubt that this dragon is on the up once more.

Lonely Planet

Legend of the West Lake

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Fri, 24 Apr 2009 21:38:00 +0700

The West Lake is the known as the largest lake in Hanoi with an area of more than 500ha. According to scientific investigations, the West Lake, as well as the Sword Lake, is a section of the Red River when it changed its stream direction. The West Lake is also knowns with many other names like the Fog Lake, Golden Buffalo Lake and Dam Xac Cao (Fox Corpse Lake).

Golden Buffalo and Fox Corpse are the names deriving from the imaginary legends.

Since time immemorial, there was a rocky mountain where lived a fox which did harm to the people. The Heaven was angry and ordered the Dragon King to flood and destroyed the mountain cave, killing the fox. The cave shrank and a lake was formed, the fox corpse floated. Thus, the people here called it Fox Corpse Lake.

As another legend goes, the name Golden Buffalo originated in the Ly dynasty. At that time there was a highly achived Buddhist monk called Nguyen Minh Khong, who was good at using magic and able to cure fatal diseases.

Hearing about him, China's Song king invited him to treat his son's disease. After sucessful in curing the king's son, he was allowed to take away anything in the king's store. He got nothing but all black bronze. Returning home, he offered all the bronze to the Ly king; the king then had a bell cast.

When the bell was rang, a golden buffalo from China ran to Vietnam. Coming at the forest north of Thang Long

Citadel when the bell stopped ringing, the buffalo was angry and destroyed the forest, the land became a lake. The king ordered to throw the bell into the lake so that the buffalo would not go up.

Since then, the buffalo lay silently in the lake and the lake got its name. It is said that anyone who has ten sons can call and take the buffalo home. One time, a person with ten sons came to called the buffalo. Suddenly the rope attached to the buffalo broke and the buffalo dived back into water. It was later found that, one of his son was a foster child.

The lake is also called the Fog Lake because there is fog hovering the lake surface every morning and afternoon.

In 1573, the lake was renamed West Lake to avoid the king's name and has been called so since.

Today, streets surrounding the lake, Tran Quoc Temple, West Lake Temple, Quan Thanh Temple have become interesting sites for any locals and visitors to Hanoi.

Cultural Day of Vietnamese Ethnic Groups begins

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Sun, 19 Apr 2009 18:32:00 +0700

The Cultural Day of Vietnamese Ethnic Groups officially opens in Son Tay, Hanoi on April 18. The festival attracts more than 1000 artists from 29 provinces and cities.

This cultural day is not only a cultural event but also a landmark event leading to the Great Anniversary of Thang Long.

Since morning, thousands of visitors rushed to the cultural village to enjoy the festival atmosphere. Many were curious about what the ethnic groups were going to boast in this day. Those who came from afar brought cooked rice and bread to eat en route.

The traditional art performances attracted a lot of public attention. Ho Van Nhu, from the Van Kieu ethnic group said: "Our delegation has come to Hanoi since April 14, bringing here three performances Greetings to the New rice, Love Exchange and traditional costume performance. In three of them, Greetings to the New Rice is of most excellence, the whole village will slaughter a buffalo to offer to the gods from morningVi into the night."

Visitors had chances to meet girls and boys from different ethnic groups with a bit shyness. They were, however, very confident when performing on stage.

The "Dien Hong Cultural Festival" show will take place on an area of more than 1200 square metres in the hill foot, ending the cultural day on the evening of April 19.

Old timers

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Sat, 18 Apr 2009 17:00:00 +0700

Two women from different generations who shared a passion for Vietnamese folk music joined forces to open the Ca Tru Thang Long Theatre.

Ca tru is an ancient form of chamber music – normally featuring a female vocalist, percussionists and a lute-player – that originated in northern Vietnam as a form of entertainment for the royal court nearly 1,000 years ago.

As with many of Vietnam’s most precious traditional arts, it has experienced some lean times in the latter half of the 20th century but in recent years there have been extensive efforts to re-invigorate the genre. The latest champion of the cause is the Ca Tru Thang Long Theatre on Tong Dan street in Hanoi, which is the result of a collaboration between the Museum of Vietnam Revolution, where it is located, and Nguyen Lai Trading company.

Rather than simply providing a space where revivalists can play to limited number of purists, the theatre is also partly an exhibition space where audiences can find out more about this traditional form of music with a display of pictures, photos and other items. In the showroom you can also find silk from Van Phuc village, ceramics from Bat Trang village and lacquer decorative items from Ha Thai village.

“My theatre is the first in Vietnam to organise professional ca tru shows. The theatre is well appointed with modern sound system and lighting,” says Nguyen Lan Huong, the 28-year-old director of Ca Tru Thang Long Theatre. After years studying the traditional arts, Huong was impressed by the efforts being made to restore ca tru by clubs in the provinces of Ha Tinh, Thanh Hoa, Hung Yen, Bac Ninh, Thai Binh and Haiphong as well as Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

“But performances were not as regular and professional as other traditional folk genres or performance arts such as cheo, tuong or cai luong,” says Huong. “I dreamed of a special theatre for ca tru ever since I was lucky enough to meet the singer Bach Van and now my dream has come true!” An experienced ca tru singer, Bach Van is now the art director of the theatre and is delighted to be able to share her passion for ca tru with younger generations.

“At present, our theatre has 15 young and talented performers. We have also received great assistance from musicologists, cultural experts and old ca tru artists, who are now over 80 years old but their voices and performances are still perfect!” says Bach Van.

“We can recreate the true essence of ca tru with its beautiful rhythms and poetry without having a young lady serving liquor to customers like in the past!” she adds, alluding to ca tru’s reputation as a geisha-like form of entertainment in the 20th century. “We aim to both preserve and develop ca tru as well as build a better society,” adds Lan Huong. “Part of the theatre’s profits is for training potential ca tru artists.

But we will also provide funds for orphans and children from disadvantaged backgrounds to attend vocational training centres so that they can find a good job and contribute to society.” The theatre’s MC, Van Anh is hopeful that the theatre will attract a young audience.

“Ca tru music sounds strange to the uninitiated. Clicks and clacks accompany centuries-old ballads,” says Van Anh, who learnt how to sing and play ca tru tunes as a young girl in Haiphong. “It is not the kind of music that inspires toe tapping or humming. But it can transport you to another age, once you start to recognise the art’s fine subtleties.

It can be really intoxicating.” The theatre seats 100 people for each performance. There are three 45-minute shows with 10 different dances and songs daily at 4.45pm, 6pm and 7.15pm. Tickets cost VND35,000 per person.

The origins of ca tru

The origins of ca tru are still the subject of debate. One story goes that a woman named A Dao created the genre, when lulling the enemy into a false sense of security with her sweet singing (ca tru is also sometimes referred to as Hat A Dao).

Another theory is that a woman named Dao Thi, a talented musician beloved by the Ly Dynasty (1009 – 1225), introduced an embryonic form of ca tru music to the imperial court, influenced no doubt by Chinese taste in music. By the 15th century it had become a hobby for aristocrats and scholars and performances could be heard at communal halls, inns and private homes throughout the land.

During a ca tru performance, the musicians – collectively known as giao phuong – stay seated. The singer, always a woman, is called a co dao and she will also play the phach – short drumsticks played off a small block of bamboo. A musician accompanies the singer on the dan day, a long-necked three-stringed lute with 10 frets.

There will also be a drummer, playing a small drum known as the Trong Chau. However by the 19th century ca tru had become a geisha-style form of entertainment. Attractive young female singers would entertain men in a relaxed environment, sometimes serving drinks, snacks and possibly opium.

As a result of these sordid associations after the August Revolution of 1945, ca tru was suppressed as it had come to represent the maltreatment of women for the entertainment of ruling class men. Ca tru quickly faded into obscurity and arguably as an art form it has never truly recovered.

VietNamNet

In pictures: Hanoi's yellow spring

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 21:24:00 +0700

In pictures: Hanoi's yellow spring

Capital Transfering Edict in ceramics on show

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 22:02:00 +0700

A big ceramic Edict in the Transfer of the Capital has been placed at Do Temple ( Bac Ninh Province) in celebration of Thang Long Great Anniversary. The Edict, which is 3.5 metres high and 8 metres wide, is made of 214 ceramic pieces of Chinese characters.

The main part of the scroll is Ly Thai To's edict to transfer the capital of Dai Co Viet from Hoa Lu (Ninh Binh Province) to Dai La (then renamed Thang Long). The edict consists of 214 characters in correspondence with 214-year reign of the Ly dynasty.

The entire 214 characters are made from Bat Trang ceramics attached to an area of 6 square metres, each of which is 16x16 wide. These characters were written by the Han Nom Huong Lan and made by Pham Xuan Hoa, a Bat Trang craftsman.

In pictures: Lily flowers whiten Hanoi streets

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 21:54:00 +0700

Pictures of lily flowers in Hanoi

36 hours in Hanoi

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Thu, 9 Apr 2009 22:40:00 +0700

The New York Times

By NAOMI LINDT
Published: April 5, 2009

Bowls of bun bo nam bo, grilled strips of beef served over rice noodles, at a Hanoi street stall.

NEAR Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, a digital clock counts down the seconds to this atmospheric city's 1,000th birthday in 2010. There certainly will be a lot to celebrate: the city, Vietnam's capital, has experienced extraordinary growth over the last two decades, evolving from a grim, famine-ravaged place into a sophisticated metropolis with high-rises, sensational cuisine and world-class art. Those shaking their heads at the disappearance of local culture, though, should think twice. For every glitzy mall, there's an incense-filled temple nearby, and cultural influences of the past are still part of the modern-day fabric, from revered Confucian monuments to trendy French restaurants. In fact, it's this zeal for barreling toward the future while always looking back that defines this city.

Friday

5 p.m.
1) IMBIBING EARLY

In a country that's up before dawn and closes down around 9 p.m., it's by necessity that Vietnamese nightlife kicks off early. Bia hoi, a type of local draft beer, is also the name for the outdoor cafes that serve it at rock-bottom prices, forming the center of the city's raucous drinking culture. The intersection of Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen Streets in the bustling Old Quarter is called “bia hoi corner” for its no-frills beer vendors. Backpackers, students and middle-age men in post-workout mode cram onto sidewalk seating for drafts directly from a keg (3,000 dong, about 17 cents at 18,000 dong to the dollar).

7 p.m.
2) A FISHERMAN'S FEAST

Hai San Ngon (199A Nghi Tam Street; 84-4-37-19-31-69), which translates as "tasty seafood," is a restaurant that lives up to its name. The large menu offers an excellent selection of steamed, sautéed and grilled options for countless crustaceans and fish. Standouts include the blood cockles salad (50,000 dong), clams mixed with shredded carrots, cucumbers and green papaya; and sautéed prawns in a sweet, hot tamarind sauce (80,000 dong). Dine on the large outdoor terrace flanked by elegant, slate-tiled pools or in one of the glassed-in dining rooms where chandeliers fashioned from authentic bamboo fishing cages dangle overhead.

9:15 p.m.
3) WATER WORLD

For a family-friendly treat, head to the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater (57B Dinh Tien Hoang Street; 84-4-38-25-54-50; www.thanglongwaterpuppet.org; admission 40,000 to 60,000 dong), where 1,000-year-old stories invented by farmers during the Red River's rainy season are recreated several times a day. Puppeteers, hidden backstage and standing thigh-high in a pool of water that extends onto the stage, expertly maneuver long sticks to make lacquered wooden marionettes skip, splash and frolic across a shallow pool. Puppets are given voice by singers as musicians play traditional instruments.

Saturday

9:30 a.m.
4) LUCKY TURTLES

For over 1,000 years, the Chinese ruled northern Vietnam, and their influence is evident in the defining role that Confucianism still plays in society. The Temple of Literature, or Van Mieu (at Quoc Tu Giam and Van Mieu Streets; admission 5,000 dong), was built in 1070 to honor Confucius and became the country's first university. The vast complex of peaceful courtyards, lotus-filled pools and red-roofed temples is still an essential pilgrimage for many. The rows of stone tortoises lining the grounds bear steles with the names of former students; young men and women preparing for exams still rub the turtles' heads for good luck.

11:30 a.m.
5) STREET STALL SMARTS

If you're willing to forgo air-conditioning and proper chairs, you'll discover the sublime flavors cooked up in Hanoi's street stalls, which are known by their addresses and the dishes they serve. Generally, you'll find the freshest and finest fare at the most crowded stalls, with prices of roughly 20,000 to 50,000 dong. Don't-miss items include banh cuon, soft rice crepes filled with minced pork and mushrooms at 14 Hang Ga Street; bun cha, grilled pork patties served with crispy crab spring rolls and fresh herbs at 1 Hang Manh Street; and bun bo nam bo, grilled strips of beef served over rice noodles, fresh herbs and peanuts at 67 Hang Dieu Street.

1:30 p.m.
6) CREATIVE HAVEN

It's an ideal time to score some deals on Vietnamese art, which has been gaining international recognition. An essential first stop for painting and sculpture is the Art Vietnam Gallery (7 Nguyen Khac Nhu Street; 84-4-39-27-23-49; www.artvietnamgallery.com), run by Suzanne Lecht, an American who has been involved in the local art scene for 15 years. Other venues like the Mai Gallery (113 Hang Bong Street; 84-4-39-38-05-68; www.maigallery-vietnam.com), the Apricot Gallery (40B Hang Bong Street; 84-4-38-28-89-65; www.apricot-artvietnam.com) and the Dragon Gallery (12 To Tich Street; 84-4-38-25-07-40) represent dozens of artists, though they seemingly lack any specific curatorial direction.

5 p.m.
7) ISLAND RETREAT

Hanoi's buzz can be as exhausting as it is intoxicating, so head to the Sunset Bar at the InterContinental Hanoi Westlake (1A Nghi Tam Street; 84-4-62-70-88-88; www.ichotelsgroup.com) for a tranquil cocktail. Built on an artificial island overlooking West Lake, a 15-minute drive from the town center, the stunning bar's wooden deck features woven rattan couches and plush daybeds topped with triangular pillows, making it a favorite late afternoon hangout for diplomats and designers alike. With the breeze in your hair and a martini in hand, you'll feel as if you've been whisked away to an exotic, tropical resort far from the city.

7:30 p.m.
8) FRENCH TASTE

From local households to five-star restaurants, Hanoi is a city of superb cooks. A promising newcomer to the scene is La Badiane (10 Nam Ngu Street; 84-4-39-42-45-09), where the Asian-inspired French cuisine that emerges from the kitchen is the work of Benjamin Rascalou, an acclaimed local chef. The restaurant is housed in an old, white-shuttered colonial villa with hand-painted silk chandeliers, earth-toned décor and intimate individual dining rooms. Three-course set menus (from $23; dollars are commonly quoted at high-end Hanoi hotels and restaurants, though payment is in dong) include options like shrimp ravioli in peanut sauce, aubergine mille-feuille and coffee-marinated lamb.

11 p.m.
9) DODGING THE LAW

Thanks to the government's regular crackdowns on what if refers to as "social evils," finding a spot that's fun for a late-night drink can be challenging. To thwart the authorities, many bars will simply shutter their front entrances around 11 p.m. or midnight, but in speakeasy fashion, keep the party going. Le Pub (25 Hang Be Street; 84-4-39-26-21-04; www.lepub.org) is a friendly Old Quarter bar with drink specials and a great iTunes library as its soundtrack. Eté (95 Giang Van Minh Street; 84-4-9-76-75-13-31) lures a diverse expat crowd for its labor-intensive fresh fruit cocktails, tasty pub food and impromptu dance parties. On weekends, D.J.'s create a bumping scene at Loop (6 Hang Bai Street; 84-4-62-70-05-95), a small dance club just south of Hoan Kiem Lake.

2 a.m.
10) WHOLESALE GOODNESS

The Vietnamese are renowned for their industriousness, an attribute nowhere more apparent than at the city's nocturnal markets. Around 1 a.m., the Long Bien Market (Dyke Road, next to Long Bien Bridge) is just getting started; for the next few hours, it's positively throbbing with activity. Along the dimly lighted aisles, you'll see seas of green-skinned oranges, baskets overflowing with hot-pink dragon fruit and trucks stacked to the brim with watermelons. Just a few miles down the road is the fragrant, colorful Quang Ba flower market, where huge bouquets of red roses and armloads of pink gladiolas are sold for less than 50,000 dong. It's all packed up and gone by 5:30 or 6 a.m.

Sunday

11 a.m.
11) FASHIONISTA FANTASY

With talented seamstresses and cheap materials, Vietnam is a fashion maven's paradise. In a strikingly white three-story building on a street known for its silk shops, the new Tan My Design (61 Hang Gai Street; 84-4-39-38-11-54; www.tanmyembroidery.com.vn) shows off the work of talented local designers. Like true Hanoians, they've taken styles of the past — mandarin collars, sumptuous silks and fine embroidery — and given them a new lease on life, perfectly suited for the 21st century.

THE BASICS

There are no direct flights between Hanoi and New York, but several carriers, including Cathay Pacific, Korean Air and American Airlines, connect the two cities with stopovers in Hong Kong, Seoul or Tokyo. A recent online search found round-trip one-stops for late April starting around $1,180. A taxi from Noi Bai Airport into the city center costs roughly 230,000 dong, about $13 at 18,000 dong to the dollar. Taxis are widely available in the city.

At the InterContinental Hanoi Westlake (1A Nghi Tam; 888-424-6835 in the United States; www.ichotelsgroup.com; rooms from $128.), the city's newest luxury hotel, has several buildings built right over the water, connected by lantern-lighted walkways.

More central is the Maison D'Hanoi Hanova Hotel (35-37 Hang Trong Street; 84-4-39-38-09-99; www.hanovahotel.com; rooms from $80), a boutique hotel a few minutes' walk from Hoan Kiem Lake. Its 55 rooms feature wood floors, padded silk headboards and thick white duvets.

Source: http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/04/05/travel/05hours.html

Tran Quoc - the oldest Buddhist temple in Hanoi

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Wed, 8 Apr 2009 21:02:00 +0700

Tran Quoc Temple, which was built 14 centuries ago and has undergone many renovations, is an important site in the West Lake scenic complex.

(picture: the tallest pagoda at Tran Quoc Temple)

Buddhism was transmitted into Vietnam by Indian monks and nuns and merchants in the early comon era. Since then many Buddhist temples have been built, in which Tran Quoc Temple is the first to be constructed.

This Buddhist temple was built in the 6th century, under the King Ly Nam De's reign, near the Red River and was first named Khai Quoc (Establishing the Nation). In the 15th centuty, the temple was renamed An Quoc (Peaceful Nation). In the early 17th century, the temple was moved to Gold Fish islet in the West Lake due to the erosion of the river bank and has been standing there till present. Under King Le Hy Tong (1675-1705), the temple was renamed Tran Quoc (Protecting the Nation).

The temple was renovated in 1624 and 1628. In 1639, the temple was expanded with more space for worship and meditation halls.

In 1815, the temple was once renovated, bells were cast and more beautiful Buddhas were put up. In a stele at the temple, Dr Pham Quy Thich wrote: "The Buddhist worship hall, incense offering hall and the front hall are built first. Then comes the two corridors, bell tower and rear hall. All of them are bigger. Buddhas and giant bells are also cast at the same time."

In 1832, emperor Minh Mang paid a visit to Tran Quoc Temple and granted silver for renovations.

Tran Quoc temple has a unique layout, different from other Buddhist temples. The front is the worship hall and then comes the rear palace. The back is the two corridors and the bell tower. There are many beautiful Buddhas in the temple, especially the laying Shakyamuni Buddha.

The temple is ranked fourth in the most beautiful Buddhist temples of Vietnam.

Ca tru performance at Heritage House

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Wed, 8 Apr 2009 15:51:00 +0700

HANOI - A ca tru performance was given at the Heritage House at 87 Ma May street. This performance was given in celebration of the 12th UNESCO Forum - University and Heritage.

In an ancient atmosphere typical of Hanoi, audience enjoyed both peanut candies, green tea and beautiful voices of arists Bach Van, Nguyen Thi Sinh through famous ca tru like Hong Hong Tuyet Tuyet, Meeting the former singer.

At the performance, the audience are introduced to products of traditional occupational villages, singing art and instruments assisting catru. Besides, there are also talks by famous singers, researchers on ca tru.

After a time of near extinction, ca tru is being gradually restored. The performance left a good impression on both domestic and foreign visitors.

The programme ends at 9th April.

In pictures: Hanoi spring

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Thu, 2 Apr 2009 22:25:00 +0700

The onset of spring with drizzles and new buds bursting make Hanoi more lively than ever. The boat on the Red River, the buds of the tropical almond trees, the snow white of legume blossoms all make an attractive picture typical of Hanoi.

Hanoian
nguoihanoi.com.vn

Thousand year Thang Long and Hanoi plants

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Thu, 2 Apr 2009 21:30:00 +0700

Thang Long-Hanoi is grouped as one of the oldest capitals in the world. Since An Duong Vuong established the capital here until present, Hanoi has been undergoing 24 centuries of history. The most important landmark is when Ly Thai To moved the capital from Hoa Lu to Dai La and renamed it Thang Long (Ascending Dragon).

After 10 centuries of development, many castles, citadel, royal gardens have been constructed. This is the convergent place of various plants from the river delta, which evolved from the local and Chinese wild plants and the cereal plants.

As a the capital, Thang Long became a complete city with big and small gates leading to bustling markets from the central citadel. There are a variety of weird plants and flowers collected from across Vietnam and neighbouring countries in the Imperial City and the Forbidden City.

In 1882, the French invaded Hanoi (Thang Long's name given by emperor Minh Mang). They destroyed the city of Thang Long and rebuilt Hanoi in the Western style. In planning Hanoi as the capital of French Indochina, the French renovated the Sword Lake surroundings based on manufacturing and trading streets like Hang Bong, Hang Dao, Hang Trong, Hang Gai, Hang Thung, Hang Thiec. They then constructed the Western quarter around the West Lake.

The then urban planners selected trees from Vietnam's tropical forests as shade trees for square streets. At the same time, they imported common plants in South-East Asia such as the tropical almond tree and many beautiful species of flowers from Africa and South America to decorate Hanoi streets. These plants has now become the symbols of many streets and residence areas.

Besides the authority set up the Botanical Garden as a place to cultivate and collect plants from across the country and other continents and the popularised these plants in many parts of the country. The number of plants in Hanoi was increasingly diverse. Many green areas in the city play the roles as lungs balancing the ecology in densely populated areas.

After the capital Hanoi was liberated in 1954, Hanoi residents began building up a new peaceful life. Trees were planted in many new areas in the city. The striking landmark is the construction of Thong Nhat Park, renovation of Co Ngu Street (now Thanh Nien Street) dividing two large lakes. Those days seen the tireless work Hanoi residents, especially students. Many new parks and green areas were also built.

During the American War, Hanoi was always covered with green trees and beautiful flowers despite American destruction. Trees were still increasingly planted along many streets.

An important event in the last years of the American War is the construction of President Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum. At this time, plants from across the north are brought here to decorate the Ba Dinh Historical Vestiges. There were so many plants and flowers that it was decided to set up a management board of trees. Later when the south was liberated, the number of trees increased, which makes Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum really a botanical garden.

In the new are of economic development and international integration, various plants have been imported to enrich Hanoi's flora.

The expansion of Hanoi (now including Ha Tay province, Me Linh district) makes this flora even more diverse. The statistics of trees in greater Hanoi would be a great scientific work.

In the occastion of the Great Anniverary of Thang Long, it is a must to produce detailed statistics of Hanoi flora. A book on Thang Long-Hanoi plants will be a great contribution to celebrating the thousand-year capital.

Hanoi to open underground by 2014

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Thu, 2 Apr 2009 20:38:00 +0700

The Hanoi metro project is one of the biggest projects of Vietnam funded by Japan's ODA. The first metro route running from Nam Thang Long to Tran Hung Dao street is 11.5 km long. This route has 3.5 km going overhead and 8 km underground.

Mr Tsuno Motonori, head of JICA Vietnam, said the construction will begin in mid 2011 and complete by 2014. After a period of trial running, the metro will be put into official use in January 2016.

'The construction requires professional skills so safety overseeing is also of great importance.' he added and expressed hope that this metro will help ease Hanoi traffic congestion.

Mr Monotori said that this is the first underground in Vietnam, therefore after being put into use, Hanoi should have appropriate mechanism to operate it efficiently.

According to planning, Hanoi will have 4 urban metro routes constructed besides the Nam Thang Long-Tran Hung Dao routes. The remaining are Nhon-Hanoi Railway Station, Cat Linh-Ha Dong and Yen Vien-Ngoc Hoi.

The three latter routes are in the process of research and planning. However, there is difficulty in financing these routes.

It is expected that the completion of Hanoi metro will help improve traffic conditions in Hanoi.

Hanoian

A "strange" museum in the heart of Hanoi

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Wed, 1 Apr 2009 20:45:00 +0700

In late 2009, a collection of wild plants and insects are to be displayed at Hanoi Botanical Garden. There are expected 200 plant specimens and 100 insect specimens in this special museum.

A small-sized forest

Doctor Duong Duc Tien from the Biotech Centre, the owner of the project, said: "The project of constructing the first biological garden in Hanoi has the purpose of giving tourists a place of display after visiting President Ho Chi Minh's Vestiges Area. The collection will include all species of plants and insects in Vietnam."

Accordingly, scientists will select about 200 plants typical of Hanoi such as African mahogany, banaba tree, milkwood pine, legumes. These specimen are divided into two units, one exhibited in the glass cabinets and one in closed boxes. Besides plants, this collection also covers 100 specimen of insects (butterflies, beetles found in tropical forest in greater Hanoi and surrounding provinces, specifically Cuc Phuong National Park). Insect specimens are also divided into two units, one for display and one for research.

Doctor Tien added that: "There are various species of plants and insects. Many of them are so identical that they usually cause misunderstandings. The collections, therefore, give visitors a chance to watch and explore the variety of plants, insects of Vietnam's diverse nature."

"Personal profiles"

Doctor Tran Hop from HCMC University of Sciences, who is charge of collecting the specimens, informed that these specimen are made according to international standards. To big trees, there are required such parts as feet, roots and even pollen and resin. To smaller plants, the specimens are required to include all parts like flowers, leaves, branches, buds, roots and trunks. When the specimen are available, they are put on four-fold paper. This arrangement is not easy as scientists have to place specimens on both sides. Then they use clamps to hold the specimens tight. The wrapping paper is replaced everyday to avoid mould. After 3-4 days of pressure, the specimen are steeped in chemicals and then dried.

To insects, the procedures are more complex. First insects are caught using rackets and flashlights. After capturing, each individual are places in triangle envelopes (to butterflies) and 90 degree alcohol boxes (to beetles). Then the specimens are fixed and presented in wooden shelves. The next step is processing in chemicals for stability and long-time storage.

At present, scientists are in the process of collecting the specimens. It is expected that the collection will be displayed in the year of 2009 at the Botanical Garden. Specimens are displayed in an area of 200 square metres, and put in glass cabinets to avoid collision and stealth. Each specimen will have its own document profiling the name, origin, distribution and scientific values.

The collection is expected to bring the visitors relaxing moments to integrate themselves with the nature and explore the exotic nature. This collection also make some contribution to decorating the capital ahead of the Great Anniversary.

Translated from New Hanoi

Zen Master Van Hanh

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Tue, 31 Mar 2009 21:52:00 +0700

Zen Master Van Hanh was born in the resonance of Bach Dang victory, which opened the long time independence era of the nation.

Master was born in Co Phap village (now Bac Ninh Province, unknown date) and renounced at the age of 21 at present-day Tieu Son Temple.

During the early Le Dynasty, Master Van Hanh helped Le Dai Hanh defeat the Chinese invasion and stabilise the country.

Master forecast that the Le Dynasty would fall some day due to King Le Ngoa Trieu's cruelty and ignorance. Master also foresaw the signs that the Ly would thrive and replace the Le. Master endorsed Ly Cong Uan and campaigned for public support for Ly Cong Uan.

When Ly Cong Uan became king, Master Van Hanh played as a great assistant. Master was named National Master (Quoc su) and given the royal surname.

Van Hanh is a master in Buddhist studies and has a long term view, devoting his whole life to the national construction. He made great contributions in starting the Ly Dynasty and transfering the capital from Hoa Lu to Thang Long.

Master Van Hanh passes away in 1025, His relics are worshipped at Tieu Son Temple.

Great Anniversary of Thang Long proposed to UNESCO agenda

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Mon, 30 Mar 2009 19:22:00 +0700

Hanoi has submitted a proposal to the UNESCO to celebrate the Great Anniversary of Thang Long in order to broadcast the image of Hanoi to the world. Vietnamese Foreign Ministry has been lobbying the UNESCO to pass a resolution calling for UN members to jointly celebrate the Great Anniversary.

The UNESCO Committee of Vietnam has been canvassing the UNESCO Secretariat and formulating the draft resolution before proposing to the UNESCO General Assembly in October 2009.

It is expected that in 2010 there are two anniversaries: 1000th of Hanoi and 1300th of Japan's Nara. Besides, Foreign Ministry, in coordination with Hanoi authority, is lobbying the UNESCO to recognise the steles at the Temple of Literature as material heritage of mankind and to include them in the Memory of the World (MOW).

The success of Steles of the Temple of Literature in Korea gives hope for the inclusion of this document in the MOW in March 2010, just several months before the Great Anniversary.

Enjoying hat xam at Dong Xuan Market

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Sun, 29 Mar 2009 10:48:00 +0700

Today's youth do not seem to be fascinated by melodies of traditional music and theatre. They even turn their back on those genres. So what do you and I, the young, think when the national traditions and identity are being forgotten, are dying out?

As usual at 7 in the evening, audience of Hanoi come to Dong Xuan Market to enjoy hat xam performances by artists of the Centre for the Development of Vietnamese Music. Although this programme has just begun for a short time, it attracts a lot of Hanoians. This is also an opportunity to introduce traditional music of Vietnam to tourists, both domestic and foreign.

At first, many people came here out of curiosity. They were surprised to see those who wore dark clothes, black glasses and conical hats in this bustling city. The artists were passionately deep in the beautiful melodies of xam, quan ho or trong quan. They were surprised to hear clear and pleasant sounds amid terrible noise from the streets.

Since the time when they saw it as "strange", they gradually became faithful audience every Saturday night. Lan Anh, from National Economic University, said "I only know about xam and chau van from books and newspapers. I haven't attended any performance before. Now I find this type very pleasant to hear."

Traditional music is considered the soul of Vietnam. Ms Do Thi Nuong, at Hang Than Street, said "I have been listening to xam since I was a child but listening just to listen. Now I can understand every word of xam. I come here almost every week."

It seems when people are too busy earning their living, bored with noisy sounds, they want to return to the past with attractive, beautiful melodies.

Besides Vietnamese, who want to seek the homeland soul, xam also attracts many foreigners. American Fred Thurner was listening excitedly and taking photos of the artists. He said "Your music attracts me."

Not many knows that enthusiatic artists must make great efforts to organise a performance every week. They are trying to restore old melodies likely to be lost if not conserved.

Do the present 8x, 9x generations seem to young to enjoy the so-called "old music"? But the impossible is now appearing in the centre of Hanoi. Hope xam will attract more audience in the near future.

Barringtonia flowers in full blossom beside Sword Lake

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Sat, 28 Mar 2009 17:08:00 +0700

Cold combined with spring rain makes Hanoi so attractive at this time. Perhaps this is the first year in recent decades that Hanoi weather is so beautiful, leaves falling during spring, flowers colouring the streets. The Sword Lake becomes so romantic in the red of barringtonia blossoms.

Photos by Quach Trung

Hanoi ready for Earth Hour

noreply@blogger.com (Thang Long) — Sat, 28 Mar 2009 12:03:00 +0700

This is the first time Vietnam has taken part in this campaign. At present, many cities, individuals, businesses have registered to turn off lights for one hour from 20h30 to 21h30 local time.

In an effort to tackle climate change, the Earth Hour was first initiated by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) in 2007 in Sydney with more than 2 million participants. After one year, the initiative has received worldwide support. In 2009, one billion people in 1000 cities are expected to join.

In Vietnam, the Earth Hour ambassadors are singer My Linh, MC Anh Tuan and Professor Vo
Quy. The role of ambassadors is to send messages of the purpose and significance of Earth Hour to everyone.

In Hanoi, one of Vietnam's six participant cities, there are many activities responding to Earth Hour. A special music programme is to be held at Hanoi Opera House with the presence of singer My Linh and Sol Art Centre at 20h local time.

From 20h30 to 21h30, unnecessary lights will be turned off at such sites as Ngoc Son Temple, The Huc Bridge, Ly Thai To Statue. Other sites also respond to this programme includes Hong Ha Cinema, Sheraton Hotel, Sofitel Plaza Hotel, Thuy Ta Shop and August Cinema.