All about Gardening Techniques

Clearing ground

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Sun, 09 Aug 2009 04:53:00 +0000

Virgin ground must be cleared of all perennial weeds before any attempt is made to grow ornamental or edible plants. Failure to do so adequately, or with sufficient care, will cause considerable problems later on, as the roots of the more rampant weeds will render any attempt to tend the garden plants virtually impossible.
In order to clear the ground. you will need to dig over the soil and then patiently lork through it, picking out every piece of root. You can only do this on fairly heaw soil when the conditions are right: if the ground is too wet, the roots will remain stuck in a ball of soil, and you will not be able to separate them. The best time for such thorough weeding is usually two or three days after the last rain, because if the ground is too dry, a similar problem occurs, only this time the soil is rock hard.
Periodically, you will come across weeds that have a particularly determined root system, usually those with one large, long lap root which appears unending. Thistles and dandelions arc common offenders in this category. The only solution for these is to loosen the soil around the root until can remove it.
1 Established perennial weeds can be very difficult to eradicate, because the smallest piece of root can develop into a new plant.
2 Use a garden fork to work over an area and gently ease the. roots out so that they are not broken.
3 Using a glove (especially for prickly weeds like thistles), pu the weeds out of the soil with as much root as possible.

REMOVING TAP ROOTS
Many of the most troublesome lawn weeds are those which have a rosette or spreading habit and a long tap root. If you spot them early, they can be removed with a sharp knife, or a blade with a forked tip called a 'daisy grubber'.
1 Start by inserting the tip of the blade into the soil a! a steep angle, about 2 in. ciwcryjrom the center of {he weed.
2 Push the blade into (he soil toward the weed to a depth of about 6 in.
Try not to cut through the roof, or it will regrow.
3 Lever the blade upward to remove
(he weed and root, For soft soil, rest the hose of [he blade on a block of wood to slop it sinking.
4 Once you have Jinished, collect the weeds and dispose of them. Do not add /hem lo your compost heap.

Weeding

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Thu, 06 Aug 2009 19:27:00 +0000

Every gardener faces an ongoing struggle against unwanted plants-weeds—that always grow much more vigorously than those that have been carefully selected. Whatever your style of gardening, you will spend some time weeding.
There is no real definition of a weed except that, in gardening terms, it is a plant in the wrong place! Some garden perennials self-seed so vigorously that they become weeds; other plants grow too exuberantly because the conditions simply happen to be absolutely right for them. Some so-called weeds—stinging nettles, for example—benefit wildlife and should be tolerated (in controlled circumstances) just for that purpose. A patch of nettles behind the garden shed does not affect the look of your garden and provides
valuable food for the caterpillars. On the other hand, the gardener needs to guard diligently against long tap-rooted perennial weeds. such as thistles, docks, and dandelions, and spreaders, such as ground elder and couch grass, which will regrow from the tiniest piece of root.
You can employ various tactics to suppress and eliminate weeds, including some drastic means involving chemicals (such as glvphosate); undoubtedly, though, the best way to weed is laboriously, by hand, with great patience.

Feeding edible plants

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Mon, 03 Aug 2009 19:28:00 +0000

When you are growing edible plants with very specific needs, the feeding program must be both well considered and balanced. In general, edible plants need particular nutrients at specific stages oi development, especially when producing fruit.
In spring, supply your edible plants with a base dressing that contains plenty of nitrogen and phosphorus. At the secondary stage of growth, the plants can be given a boost with a top dressing. Later, when the plant is producing fruit, for example, vim cm give it another extra boost of nutrients using a liquid Iced containing plenty of potassium. You can use an organic preparation, such as blackjack (sec opposite), or a propriety feed, such as a tomato fertilizer, a popular feed that is useful as ,i "pick-me-up" for all types of plants.
Composting straw
You can add straw to your existing compost heap, or allow it to rot down in a heap of its own. lb do this, make up a heap of straw in layers about 6 in. deep. As you add each layer, water it and sprinkle with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Over the next few months, periodically turn over the heap, turning in toward the middle. Alter this, the compost should be ready to add to the soil as a bulk Iced.
Foliar feeds
These liquid feeds are extremely usclul for adding a quick burst of nutrients when your plants are in full growth. Liquid feeds are usually easier to apply than granular fertilizers, and the plants often respond quite quickly to such treatment. Concentrated foliar feeds can be purchased in liquid or powder form and then diluted according to the specific manufacturer's instructions.
Spray leaves in either the morning or evening, but not in full sun, as they may scorch. Most feeding will be needed prior to flowering or fruiting. The composition of feed will be determined accordingly: for example, fruiting plants need more potassium than flowers. Do not apply the feed during wet weather or when rain is forecast, as it may be washed away before it gets to work. You
can direct foliar feeds to areas of
the plant that need an extra boost.
Granular feed
Avoid touching foliage with Granular feeds, because they can scorch the plant.
Foliar feed (left) Apply foliar feeds directly to the leaves, paying special attention to any areas that look in particular need of help.

Plant "pick-me-ups"

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:59:00 +0000

In addition to regular feeds, you will also need plant "pick-me-ups' I mm time to time. These boost plant vigor at certain times, such as during the I lowering or fruiting periods. They are the plant equivalent of a vitamin drink. These are most rapidly absorbed in liquid form, and you can make your own organic "teas" if you wish. The most well known is "blackjack," a concoction made from rotted animal manure.
MAKING BLACKJACK
Blackjack is an excellent, nutritious plant "pick-me-up," which is very useful during flowering or fruiting periods. Although it is not sweet-smelling, your plants will be very grateful for an application.
1 To credit' blackjack, you will first need a quantity oj animal manure that has been well rotted down.
2 Add some soot (which provides nitrogen) and wood ash (good for potassium.) (o the manure. Put the mixture into a plastic-net bag.
3 Seal the bag carefully and
suspend in a barrel of rainwater. Leave it in position for several weeks.
5 Once the solution is ready, decant i! as reifuired into a watering can. diluting it to the color oj weak tea. and apply it to your plants.

MAKING STRAW COMPOST
Old straw makes excellent bulky organic matter to incorporate into the soil to help improve drainage, moisture retention, and general fertility. Alternatively, it can be used as an organic mulch; spread it over the soil surface to preserve moisture and suppress weeds. This layer will be gradually incorporated into the soil by the activity of worms, bacteria, and other soil-borne organisms.

• the base o\ (he circa with 12 in. of loose straw. Soak the straw with water.
2 Sprinkle a light covering of
nitrogenous fertilizer over the straw to speed up decomposition.
3Add another 12in. layer of loose .straw to the stack, water it and add more fertilizer.
4 As the straw decomposes, it becomes covered in a white mold and resembles well-rotted manure.

Feeding your plants

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Mon, 27 Jul 2009 19:22:00 +0000

Feeding
Before feeding your plants, you need to decide whether or not you wish to follow organic principles. If you do, you will need to use organic fertilizers only. These are obtained from "natural" waste of plants and animals: rotted-down leaves and plants, or the excrement (often with bedding) of animals and birds (mostly horses and chickens, because the mix of manure to bedding is not too rich).
Whether or not you choose to limit yourself to organic feeds is a matter of personal choice. If you arc happy using ordinary fertilizers, there are some suitable for ever)' plant and situation. II you do choose to use manure as an organic feed, it will need time to rot down before being applied to the soil. I he bulk supplied by the bedding helps to improve the soil structure; it also dilutes the quantities of nitrogen in the manure itself.
Because ol this, bulky plant foods are normally added in autumn, to give them time to break down over winter. Feeding programs with fertilizers usually begin in early spring, when most plants are emerging from winter dormancy. They are then led throughout the growing period. Watering is essential during this time, as the feeds need to be absorbed into the water that the plant takes up. Applications are usually given about once a month.

Using a soaker hose system

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Fri, 24 Jul 2009 18:50:00 +0000

During the height of summer, the job of watering the garden can seem never-ending, and half an hour after the hose has been put away the plants look dry again. By installing a soaker hose system around your garden, you can help to minimize the work involved.
You can limit the time spent watering by making sure the plants actually get the water intended for them, delivered to the place from which they can benefit most. This is particularly important if your water is metered.
Sprays may only soak the surface before the water starts to evaporate or run into the drains.
Low-level watering systems (pipes laid along the ground) delivers the water very close to the plants' roots and requires only a low-pressure water supply. This means that large areas can be watered at low pressure, because the water only seeps out of the pipe when the pipe is full; this slow, steady delivery allows the water to penetrate the soil with little evaporation. This system can be activated by a timing device, so that the garden can be watered even when there is no one at home. Set it for dawn watering; night watering provides the ideal conditions for nocturnal slugs and snails.
In a larger garden, install the soaker hose in an area where I he plants are most vulnerable. To! avoid wasting water, you need to find ways to conserve water in the garden. Try to choose plants that survive with minimal watering. However, if you have a vegetable garden, for example, where regular and copious watering is essential, you will have to install a suitable watering system.
Remember to install a water butt so that you can catch any rainwater and deliver it to the areas or plants that need it most. For example, acid-loving plants in containers should he watered with rainwater rather than tap water if the latter has a lot of lime in it (you will know this if limescale is a problem).
FINAL CHECK
Before switching on the system, check the pipe carefully.
It is important to even out
any twists or kinks in the pipe.
If these are left, the pipe will
"snake" or creep as it Jills with
water, or in some instances, water
flow may be restricted.
Watering the roots (above) A soaker hose system a/lows water to get straight to the plants' roots, where it is most needed.

INSTALLING A SOAKER HOSE
Tools and materials
■ heavy-gauge plastic-coated wire
■ good-quality knife
■ broom handle
■ vice or work bench
■ soaker hose
■ container
■ timing device (optional)
1 Cut sections of heavy-gauge plastic-coated wire into 10 in. lengths. Bend these sections until they arc roughly straight and, using a broom handle and a vise or work bench, trap the middle of the wire to prevent it from moving.
2 Mend the wire around the broom handle twice to form a loose spiral, so that the top of the wire peg can be "threaded" over the soaker hose at any point along its length.
3 Thread the wire loops onto the seephose and lay out the piping to get the maximum amount of water possible to each plant (for established shrubs, position the pipe within 6-12 in. of the base).
4 Peg the pipe into position and connect it too water supply, such as a hose with
connectors. Gently turn on the lap to allow the water to flow through the pipes, and check carefully for any large, unintended leaks.
5 About two-thirds of the way along the run of pipe, insert a container into the soil below the pipe so that its rim is level with the soil surface. This can be used lo measure the water flow per hour, lifting up the container slightly to check.
6 To make the system fully automatic, a battery-powered liming device can be jilted lo the water supply. This will make it possible for the watering system to work even when you are on vacation.

When to water

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Wed, 22 Jul 2009 18:51:00 +0000

Avoid watering in the heat ol the day. Many plants are susceptible to leaf scorch ii the leaves arc soaked when in strong sun. Also, some water will evaporate before it can penetrate the soil.
If you have timed watering devices, set the timer to early morning or late evening.
Special watering needs
If you grow plants in containers, you will have to pay special atten-tion to their need for moisture, lerra-cotta pots arc very porous and moisture quickly evaporates. You can help preserve the moisture content of the compost by mulching the top of the pots with gravel. Hanging baskets arc especially vulnerable to moisture loss. In really hot weather, water them twice a day.
Reviving a wilted plant (above) Plunge the plant into a bucket oj water until bubbles
slop rising to the surface.
SPECIAL WATERING NEEDS
Plants growing in full sun (except those originating from Mediterranean or hot climates)
need to be watered more frequently than those in shade. Plants with larger leaves require more water
than those with smaller leaves, and plants in containers dry out particularly fast.
Small leaves Small-leaved plants need less watering lliaii those with large leaves, but all container plants need frequent watering.
Large leaves The large surface area o) these leaves means thai moisture is lost quickly. Position the plant so that watering is easy.
Containers Position containers in groups. This makes watering less o) a chore, especially in hot weather when frequent watering is required.

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Sun, 19 Jul 2009 14:24:00 +0000

Water delivery
There is a wide a range of watering equipment available (see pages 74-75), but you need to ehoose those items most suited to your needs and your style of gardening. You will almost certainly need a watering can and .i garden hose. If you have a lawn ,iiul your climate suffers from dry spells, you would be well advised lo invest in a lawn sprinkler as well. If you are away from home a lot in the summer, consider installing a water sprinkler system that is operated by a moisture sensor, which activates the system when the soil becomes too dry.
There is a wide range of special irrigation systems designed lo cope with all kinds of garden layout, and your choice will be dictated In your circumstances.
The two most common forms of irrigation arc the basic "leaky pipe" system and more elaborately designed systems with valves and nozzles that deliver water to specific areas.
How to water
Although this sounds absolutely basic, a great many gardeners do not water their plants efficiently, wasting large quantities ol water in the process. The point of watering is to ensure that the moisture reaches as far as the plant's roots. It follows that water needs to be directed toward these, and also that it is directed for long enough to seep through the layers of soil to moisten these roots. A gentle, regular supply over a longer period is much more effective than lots of water poured on too quickly.

Preventing moisture loss

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Sun, 19 Jul 2009 14:22:00 +0000

Preventing moisture loss
No one wants to spend all their time watering, so it makes sense
to explore ways to reduce moisture loss. The most effective method of minimizing water for is through mulching—covering the surface ol the soil with a Liver of porous material that will help to prevent evaporation, hi larger gardens, you can spread plastic sheeting over the beds, topped with a layer of organic material. Gravel is also a useful mulch. particularly lor small areas such as containers or pots.
MULCHING
Mulching the surface of the soil helps to conserve moisture. You can use inorganic substances, such as gravel, or those that add nutrients, such as homemade compost, bark chips, or straw.
The mulch will need to be replaced every year or so.
Gravel Membranes, such as woven plastic or plastic sheeting, are effective but look unsightly. Cover with ornamental gravel.
Organic mulches Shredded bark or wood
chips, will compost if in contact with the soil. Fungal molds may grow—these do not harm plants.
The right depth provide good weed control and prevent moisture loss from the soil, organic mulches should be 2-4 in. deep.

Watering

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Wed, 17 Jun 2009 01:16:00 +0000

Watering
Like us, plants are primarily composed of water—around 90 percent of their mass— which performs the vital function of moving nutrients around the plant. Desert plants have adapted to cope without water for considerable periods of time, but most plants with quite rapidly unless the water supply is replenished frequently.
For optimum plant performance, the supply of water should be fairly regular and definitely at those periods when the plant is programmed to expect it—otherwise, even if the plant manages to survive, it will experience various growth problems.
The job of the gardener is to help nature along at those times when, for one reason or another, the climate does not behave as expected. However, it is a wise
gardener who also understands that they will create less work for themselves if they choose to grow plants that survive in the average rainfall conditions of their climate, rather than hankering alter plants from welter climes that will require constant watering.

General winter tasks

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Thu, 21 May 2009 15:17:00 +0000

Just because the garden is largely dormant, this does not mean that there is nothing to do once your preparatory tasks are complete.
The gardening lull in winter offers the ideal opportunity to clean up the garden shed and store all your equipment neatly. You can also use this time to oil and sharpen the blades of saws, pruners, cylinder lawn mowers and garden knives.
Preparing for winter (left) Frost-tender plants will need (o be well wrapped in winter to prevent frost damage. Wrap container-grown plants arid their pots in burlap or bubble wrap. Cover the crowns of tender perennials with straw.
SHARPENING A KNIFE
Knives used for gardening are ideal for a whole range of tasks from taking cuttings to cutting string. Whatever they are used for, the blades should always be kept very sharp.
Use a moistened oil stone to sharpen your knife. Hold the blade at an angle of 25 degrees and push it gently along the oil stone until it is sharp. Only the factory-sharpened edge needs to be treated in this way.

GARDEN MAINTENANCE

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Thu, 07 May 2009 17:21:00 +0000

Up under the ice, causing the fish to suffocate. The best solution is to install an electric pond healer to keep the water at .1 steady temperature. 1 low ever, for this you will need a permanent outdoor electricity supply that conforms to safety standards—this includes specially insulated cable and socket. It is advisable to consult a qualified electrician.
This solution can prove expensive, but is an important investment i( you have a lot of fish or if your pond is stocked with expensive breeds. If you cannot afford this, you can float a ball on surface the improvement of the ball is supposed to prevent ice from forming. This method is not infallible, and you may not want to take the risk if you have fish, but it can help to protect water plants. Generally, lighter balls work best—ping-pong or tennis balls arc ideal.

CLEANING A POND

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Tue, 05 May 2009 17:35:00 +0000

Your pond should be cleaned to remove debris that has accumulated throughout the year. Before cleaning, any beneficial creatures, such as water snails, should be placed in a shallow tray of water so that they can be reintroduced to the pond once you have finished.
1 Empty the pond by bailing it out with a bucket, or pump the water out by attaching a hose to the pump outlet.

2 Remove any soil, mud, and plant debris from the bottom of the pond. Put pond animals in a tray of water.

3 Using a stick brush, scrub the sides oj the pond, applying a weak solution of sterilizing agent.

4 Clean (he sides and bottom with a powerful water jet. Allow (lie pond surface to dry. then refill.

Water features in a garden

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Sun, 12 Apr 2009 13:09:00 +0000

If you have a pond in your garden you should find it relatively easy to maintain, but occasionally you will have to clean it out to remove any leaves and other debris that may have built up in the base of the pond. No pond should be installed near deciduous trees. If yours is in this position, you will have to cover it with a net during autumn to catch the fallen leaves.
II you have water plants in the pond, you will need to check regularly to see it they have become too big for their pots. If so, they will need to be potted into larger containers (or, alternately, you can prune their roots). Autumn is a good time to do this. If you have a pond liner, be very careful not to damage it while carrying out maintenance tasks like these.
Tranquil haven
A pond can be a precious asset to your garden, so it is well worth carrying out maintenance tasks to keep it looking its best.
You must take any fish out of the pond before you attempt to carry out any maintenance. Remove them using a net and keep them in a shady spot in a container filled with pond water. Leave the pond to settle for at least 24 hours before you return the fish to their home. II necessary, use a specially formulated water-balancing chemical to improve the quality of the water. In really cold weather, you may need to prevent your pond from freezing over. II you do not deal with this problem, gases may build Protecting water features lightweight ball can help to prevent your pond or water feature from freezing over.

Plants

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Fri, 03 Apr 2009 21:11:00 +0000

Plants
Looking after your plants will involve you primarily in (ceding and watering, and also in pruning. In addition to these basic tasks, you will also need to support some of your plants, particularly climbers, to
prevent them from flopping over. To prolong the flowering season of any plant, it pays to remove any dead or dying flowerheads so that the plant docs not set seed (which will automatically prevent it from making any additional blooms). Deadheading is a task that should be carried out regularly throughout the flowering season, although you will find that it needs lo be done most frequently during summer.
• With most gardening chores, it pays to spend small, regular periods of time in the garden— perhaps half an hour every other day—rather than trying to cram in everything during the weekend. You can deal with small chores such as deadheading and watering as you walk around the garden. Pruning is also best done this way, as and when individual plants have finished flowering, rather than in a once- or twice-yearly hit.

Caring for your garden

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 17:24:00 +0000

It is important to be realistic about the amount of time you can give to your garden, because the reality almost always exceeds the plan. I he time you will need to spend tending your garden not only depends on its style and content, but also varies from season to season.
In a traditional garden, with a modest lawn and a small vegetable patch surrounded by borders of shrubs and perennials, the most time-consuming seasons are spring (when the planting and much of the pruning are carried out) and autumn (when you will be occupied with digging and tidying up). However, it the summer is very dry, then you may spend quite a lot of time watering, especially if you have plenty of plants in containers. The lawn will require regular mowing regardless of the weather—ideally once a week.
Another factor is your own preference: if you like to keep the garden in almost military order, with nothing out of place, then clearly it will take almost double the time that a more relaxed approach would demand. Whichever group you belong to, for efficiency's sake it will always be worth ensuring that the tools you use arc cleaned before being put away and are hung up or stored in a specific place. Nothing is more annoying than losing, again, your only pair of shears, and it may well be worth investing in a gardeners belt, or some other device with large pockets, in order to keep them sale.
Wooden surfaces
In addition to the work required to keep the plants in good shape, you will also need to keep the hard surfaces in your yard in good condition. Any softwood in the garden needs to be protected against the ravages of the weather
Cleaning tools To keep tools in good condition, it is important to clean of) any soil and grime after use. Scrape off the thicker layers before wiping the surfaces with an oily cloth.
Oiling moving parts All the joints on your tools should be treated with oil regularly to keep them in good working order and to prevent excessive wear and tear.
Treating wooden tools Wooden shafts should be feel clean and treated with linseed oil at least once a year. This prevents the joints from diying out and the wood from splitting.

and occasional new coals of preservative will be required. For most pretreated woods, linseed oil boilers an efficient form of protection, feeding the wood as it preserves it, A good time to treat the wood is in early winter on a line, reasonably warm day, after the autumn's gardening tasks have been completed. The wood will then be protected against the winter rains and frosts.
Wooden decks, particularly in wet climates, will need occasional scrubbing with a si ill-bristled brush and an algicide to remove any accumulated (and slippery) green slime. Hardwood decks need not be treated, but softwood will be treated with preservative once a year.
Gravel and paving
If you have areas of gravel, even if you have laid a membrane or plastic sheet underneath it, you Raking gravel rake with widely spaced lines is ideal for removing leaves from gravel without disturbing the surface.
may need to apply weedkiller or remove any emerging weeds by-hand. Once every three years or so you may need to top up the gravel.
Paved areas of the garden will need sweeping occasionally (but more frequently during the fall, if there are deciduous trees nearby), and a hose-down once in a while to remove the inevitable build-up of dirt. You can recycle any leaves that have fallen onto paved areas of your garden by bagging them up and allowing them to rot down into valuable compost or leaf mold.

ROSE GRAFTING

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Wed, 18 Mar 2009 15:12:00 +0000

Tools and materials
■ cutting from a rose rootstock
■ sharp knife
■ shears
■ semi-ripe shoot from rose cultivar
■ rubber band
■ pot and compost
■ plastic bag
1 Start hardwood cuttings, taken from one-year-old shoots of a rose rootstock, into growth in a warm greenhouse in midwinter. Remove the lower buds, then heel in to a soil bed. Graft in spring, when semi-ripe shoots of the rose you want to propagate are available. Prepare the rootstock by culling it down to 6 in.
2 Make a single shallow, upward-slanting cultivar in. long at the lop of the rootstock, thereby exposing the plan! tissue responsible for healing (the cambium), which allows the slock to heal together.
3 In long from the rose cultivar you want. Remove all of the leaves apart from the uppermost one.
4 Make a single downward-slanting cut approximately half in. long on the bottom section of the scion, just behind a bud. This cut will expose the cambium.
5 Gently place the two sections of plant together, so that the cut surfaces match. then they arc correctly positioned, carefully bind I he graft with a rubber hand. This will hold the graft firmly until the two sections join.
6 Place the graft into a pot of compost. Water it well, cover with a plastic bag, and place on a warm windowsill.

SUCKERS

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 18:57:00 +0000

Suckers occur when the rootstock of a grafted plant starts to produce shoots from the area below the graft union. Suckers are allowed to grow unchecked, they will start to compete with the grafted plant to which they are joined. Unfortunately, because the rootstock is usually more vigorous than the cultivar grafted onto it. The growth of these suckers will outstrip that of the grafted plant, usually resulting in the death of the grafted plant. Suckers must be removed at an early stage by simply pulling them out.

AIR LAYERING

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Sat, 07 Mar 2009 17:51:00 +0000

For this method of layering, you will need a small, clear plastic bag with the bottom removed, a sharp garden knife, a matchstick, a couple of ties, and a small amount of sphagnum moss.
1 Cut the bottom off a plastic bag to make a lube and slide it over the leaves. This holds the leaves out the way.
2 Further down, make an upward cut into the stem, penetrating halfway through. Wedge the cut open with a clean matchstick.
2 Slide the plastic tube down the stem so that the wounded area is in the center of the bag. lie the bottom firmly around the stem.
4 Pack the plastic bag with moist sphagnum moss until it is full and tie the top of the bag firmly around the stem with string.
soil. These plants will often do this without help from the gardener. All you need to do is make sure that the tip of the shoot is buried shallowly in the soil.
Air Layering
This is a useful method of layering for plants with stems that are not very flexible. You can use either the basic layering (above) cut or the stem girdling technique for air layering. The secret of the method lies in creating a scaled pocket of growing medium around the cut area of your plant, which then encourages new roots to form.
STEM GIRDLING
This method involves damaging the stem of the parent plant in various ways to encourage new roots to form. This technique can be used when carrying out air layering.
1 Tightly twist a piece of thin wire until ii cuts into the hark. This will encourage roots to form.
2 Twist the stem until the hark splits. As the stem heals, roots may form around the damaged area.
3 Remove a narrow ring of hark. I his will encourage roots to form around the damaged area.
4 Make an angled cut into the stem, creating a wound which may form roots as the stem heals.

Simple layering

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Thu, 05 Mar 2009 17:37:00 +0000

This method works well with shrubs or trees with flexible stems. Using a sharp knife, cut a tongue into the wood tissue about halfway through, then peg the cut side so that it is in contact with
the soil. A small mound of compost placed at the contact point will encourage rooting.
Serpentine layering
This is used for climbers such as clematis or wisteria. Several cuts are made along the shoot and pegged down, so that a number of new planllets form.
Tip layering
Ibis method of layering is used for the genus Rubus (wild brambles), including blackberries, which will form new plants where
SIMPLE LAYERING
The most basic form of layering is "simple layering", where a soft, flexible shoot is bent down to touch the soil. If rooting is successful
this shoot can then be separated from the parent plant so that it can grow on independently.

1 Select a suitable shoot and gentle bend it down to soil level to see where the hole should be dug.

2 Remove any leaves at about 12 in. from the tip. Cut a ll/2-in. "tongue" half into the stem.

3 Dig a shallow hole, so that the side nearest the parent plant slopes at 45 degrees and the other is vertical.

4 Lay the wounded section into the bottom of the hole. Peg into place with a wire hoop. Cover with soil.

Layering plants

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Thu, 26 Feb 2009 17:09:00 +0000

Layering is one of the easiest methods oj propagation, and it has the added advantage of being more or less foolproof. It is used primarily as a way of increasing a wide range of shrubs, trees, and climbers, and can also be used for propagating some soft fruits.
Layering, in which new plants are encouraged to grow from the stems of the parent plant while these are still attached, makes use of the natural tendency to produce new roots (known as adventitious roots) where a wound occurs in the cambium of the plant (the layer immediately under the bark). You can make use of this tendency by cutting through the outer part of the stem and ensuring that the wound is placed in contact with soil that is then kept sufficiently moist. Layering can be done
either by pegging down a cut shoot or by wrapping the cut area with sphagnum moss that is wrapped in a clear plastic bag. "I here are several different methods of layering, each suitable for use with plants displaying particular characteristics.

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Tue, 17 Feb 2009 15:19:00 +0000

Leaf cuttings
Some plants can be propagated from their leaves. Notable among these are African violets [Saintpaulia), Cape primroses [Streptocarpus), and begonias (Begonia). The new plants will develop cither from the base of the leaf (the real petiole) or from one of the veins that runs across the leaves. The compost should be a mixture of multipurpose compost and sharp sand (roughly two parts to one part). The addition of sand makes rotting less likely.
African violets are easily propagated by removing a couple of leaves from the parent plant with the stalk attached and then inserting the stalk of each real into a small pot of cutting compost, so that the base of the leaf touches the compost. Cover the pot with an upturned clear plastic bottle or plastic bag and
leave in a warm place, out of direct sunlight. Small plantlets will form at the base of the leaves. Once I hey grow large enough, you can remove the plantlets and plant them individually. Some succulents, such as crassulas {Crassula), can be propagated in the same way by removing a couple of leaves from the parent plant, but you should allow a clay or so for the wound to callus over before inserting each leaf into the cutting compost.
Larger leaves, such as those of cape primroses, can be cut into sections to be used for propagation. Plantlets will form where the cut surface of a vein is in contact with the compost (see below). To keep the leaf cuttings moist, cover the tray or pot with a clear plastic bag and seal. Alternatively, all types of leaf cutting can be rooted in a propagating case.
TAKING LEAF CUTTINGS
It is possible to propagate some plants by cutting and planting their
leaves in a pot or tray of compost. New plantlets grow from either the base of
the leaf or the veins that run across it. Cape primrose {Streptocarpus) is shown here.
1
Lay the leaf upside down. Use a sharp knife to cut along the leaf close to the fleshy midrib, to leave two sections of leaf Hade. Discard the midrib.
2
1f you are dealing with particularly long leaf strips, cut them into halves or thirds so that they will/it comfortably into a tray or pot of compost.
3
Insert the strips so that the cut surface is just below the top of the compost. Lightly firm the compost, water, and leave on a warm windowsill or in a propagator.

Root cuttings

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Mon, 16 Feb 2009 16:20:00 +0000

Plants that produce shoots directly from their roots—for example, acanthus (Acanthus) and sumac (Rhus)—can he increased by taking root cuttings. These cuttings are normally taken in late autumn or during early winter while the plant is dormant.
11 o w v o u deal with the cuttings depends on the type of root system of the plant. Thicker roots should normally he cut into sections 2-3 in. long, while thinner roots should he cut into longer sections up to 4 in. long. It is important that you make a different cut at each end of thick roots so that you know which way up to plant them: make a straight cut at the top of the root (nearest the stem) and a slanted cut at the other end.
Prepare a tray or pots of compost containing a mixture of peat and venniculite. Insert the slanting ends of the roots into the compost. Cover with grit and then water well. Alternatively, use sand to cover the cuttings.
With thin roots that are too delicate to insert upright, lay the roots on the surface of the compost. Cover with grit, as before, and then water well.
Hoot cuttings can he propagated in a cold frame and potted when new shoots appear in spring.
TAKING ROOT CUTTINGS
Some plants produce very short stems and shoots, which can make taking cuttings very awkward,
so another part of the plant has to be used. The roots of many herbaceous plants and alpines,
and a number of trees, shrubs, and climbers, can be used for propagation.
1
After carefully digging up the wots of the plant that is to he propagated, wash them to remove as much soil as possible before you begin.
2
Cut thick roots into sections 2—3 in. long with a flat cut at I he top and a slanted cut at the bottom tihis will become the planted end.
3
Insert the root cuttings by gently pushing the slanted ends into a pot of compost so that the top of each cutting is level with the surface.
4
Cover with grit, which allows air to reach the top of each cutting without letting them dry out and also ensures good drainage.

Root and leaf cuttings

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 10:49:00 +0000

In addition to cuttings made from new shoots, some plants can be propagated from other parts as well, in particular the roots and the leaves. The sections of root or leaf are placed in or on an appropriate growing medium so that they can develop new roots and shoots.

Some plants produce very-short stems and shoots, which can make taking cuttings very awkward, so another part of the plant has to be used.

Planting

noreply@blogger.com (Lemo) — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 13:09:00 +0000

Once the cutting has developed an independent root system, you can plant it into an individual pot—a 3!/2-in. pot is about the right size for one season, until the plant is growing strongly and can he planted out in its permanent position. However, very small cuttings that are planted directly into borders are easy to overlook or pull up by accident, so it can be worth tending your young plants' for another year before planting them out.
Once the cutting is growing strongly, nip out the growing tip. This encourages the sideshoots to develop, giving the plant a more bushy appearance.
Rooting powder
When applied to the cut end, this hormone preparation increases the rooting capacity of the cutting. Dip the hase of the cutting in the powder and then blow away any surplus.