Exotic Pets Care Guide

Pet Canary Care Guide

noreply@blogger.com (Raymond Ave. Veterinary Hospital) — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Canary - An Introduction to the Variations
Breeding Canaries

Canary - An Introduction to the Variations

Canaries are delightful pet birds pets that don't require as much attention from their owners as other pet bird species. Often kept in pairs, Canaries are usually thought of as being sweet yellow songbirds, although there are many other variations in color. Canaries are divided into groups by color, type and song, depending upon which trait is the most dominant. Color canaries colors include new color and red factors. Some red factors are fed a food additive called canthaxanthin which helps keep the red vibrant. Type canaries are bred to have a certain "look." Common ones include the Gloster, with its Beatles-style haircut, the elongated Belgian fancy, and the frilly look of the appropriately named frills, which include Parisians, Padovans and the Gibber Italicus. Song canaries include rollers, waterslagers and American singers. Some song canaries sing as part of a group, while others sing individually.

3 Canary Hens

The American Singer

Breeding Canaries

Canaries are more demanding than budgies in their feeding and husbandry requirements during the breeding season. With a bit of time and care, breeding this species can be very rewarding. The whole process from egg laying to the time chicks become fully independent takes around two months.

It is usually recommended to breed canaries in cages rather than in an aviary. In order to minimize disturbance to the breeding pair, the cage should not be positioned facing any other birds. Ideally, breeding cages should have a removable mesh partition down the middle. This partition allows the male to feed the female during courtship and keeps the couples separate until they are ready to mate.

Sexing Male canaries are distinguished from females by the intensity and volume of their singing. Both the volume and intensity increase as they reach peak breeding condition. Females do not produce the same melodious song as males. Timing In the northern hemisphere, canaries reach their breeding condition in mid-March. It is good to introduce nesting boxes and other materials at this particular time, Nesting Canaries nest in open topped pans which can be made of metal, plastic or earthenware. The nesting pans should be lined with a soft material such as felt. In order for the female to weave the nest, additional nesting materials must also be provided. Suitable materials are shredded tissue paper, cat hair, hay, moss, cotton wool or rags. The strands of the nesting material must be short so that the bird's feet do not become entangled. Egg Laying On the average, canaries lay 4 or 5 eggs, although numbers can range from 2 to 6. The eggs are laid one a day, or every other day, and always early in the morning. Canary eggs are pale blue with tiny brown specks. If canary eggs were allowed to hatch out in the order they were laid, the chicks within the nest would be at different stages of Development. In order to avoid this situation, the eggs are generally removed from the nest during the laying period and only replaced when the clutch is complete. Each egg is removed from the nest at around noon on the day that it is laid and replaced with a dummy egg that can be purchased in pet shops. Once the eggs are removed, they can be kept on cotton wool at room temperature for up to two weeks. Once the hen has stopped laying, the eggs can be replaced in the nest and the dummy eggs removed. At this point, incubation begins and lasts 13 - 14 days. Diet Females can be fed soft food for a few weeks prior to breeding and throughout the breeding season. A number of commercial rearing or conditioning soft foods are available, although many breeders prefer to make up their own mixtures from a variety of ingredients. Cuttlefish bone and grit are important calcium sources and should be freely available during the breeding period.

Care of the Young

Canaries are born naked and blind. In the nest, they are totally dependant upon their parents for food. They leave the nest around 16 days of age and begin to feed themselves.Soft rearing food can be introduced to the young on the second day after hatching.Occasionally, the male canary will attack the young; therefore, the parents should be watched during the rearing period. Chicks can be removed from the parents when they are fully able to feed themselves. This occurs when chicks are approximately 25-30 days old.

Pet Chinchilla Care Guide

noreply@blogger.com (Raymond Ave. Veterinary Hospital) — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 23:33:00 +0000

Chinchillas - are rodents, characterized by their large hind feet, compact bodies, soft dense fur, large eyes and ears, long whiskers and bushy tails. Chinchilla lanigera, with a longer tail, is the most common pet species, while Chinchilla brevicaudata has a very short tail. The chinchilla’s natural environment is the semi-arid rocky slopes of the Andes Mountains in South America. Dr. K., treats Chinchillas and other exotic pets at Raymond Ave Veterinary Hospital.

Pet Appeal/Behavior

Affectionate, intelligent, charming personalities.
Bond quickly to their owners.
Hardy and suffer few illnesses.

Chinchillas can make great pets, because they are easy to care for, have very little odor and rarely bite.

Dogs, cats and ferrets are predators.
Basically nocturnal, they may be active during the day.
They need at least 30 min/day for exercise and play.
They are often difficult to litter-train (fecal).

Sexing and Reproduction

The anogenital distance in males is about twice as long as females.
Male chinchillas do not have a scrotom, and the testes remain primarily in the inguinal canal or abdominal cavity.
There are two small moveable sacs next to the anus (post-anal sacs) into which the caudal epididymis can drop.
In females, the anus is immediately caudal to the relatively large cone-shaped urethral papilla.
The female vagina is normally sealed by a membrane except during estrus (3-5 days) and parturition.
If a female chinchilla is not bred at a young age, its pelvis will fuse and it may have difficulty giving birth later.
An open vulva, often with visible mucus, is an external indication of estrus.

Housing

House individually, in pairs or in a polygamous group with a single male and 2-4 females.
Cage should be at least 3 x 2 x 2 feet (90 x 60 x 60 cm), constructed from wood and mesh wire.
Use pine litter for substrate (avoid cedar as it is toxic).
Chinchillas need climbing ares, a dust box and a sleeping box in an upper corner.
Dust baths help chinchillas keep clean without becoming chilled. Chinchillas should be allowed to roll in the dust material (about 2-3” [8-10cm] deep) for 10 to 15 minutes several times per week.
Temperatures higher than 82 degrees Fahrenheit (28 degrees Celsius) can be result in heat stroke. Optimal temperatures are 50-68 degrees Fahrenheit (10-20 degrees Celsius).

Diet

Commercial chinchilla pellets, water and unlimited timothy hay provide an adequate diet.
Chinchillas can thrive on a mixture of grass (timothy, brome, and oat) and legume (alfalfa) hays.
Adults require 1-2 Tbs of pellets daily.
Sugary treats, such as raisins or dried apples, and fatty foods, such as sunflower seeds or peanuts, should be avoided.

Restraint

Lift the Chinchilla by supporting the body with one hand under the abdomen and holes the animals by the base of the tail close to the body with the other hand.
The chinchilla can also be placed on the arm.
A chinchilla should be restrained gently to avoid “fur slip.”
Chinchilla may bite if restrained against their will.

Blood Collection

IV: 25-28 ga needles in lateral saphenous or cephalic vein
IM: 23-25 ga needle in quadriceps, gluteals; max. Volume 0.3 ml per single site/adult
SC: 23 ga under skin, neck or flank; be careful of “fur slip”
IP: Hind limb should be extended with animal restrained, introduce 23 ga needle or smaller along the line of the leg into the center of the posterior quadrant of the abdomen; up to 10 ml fluid can be given.

Physical Examination

Annual veterinary visits should include a physical exam and review of the diet and husbandry.
The need for fecal analysis and blood hematology and chemistry should be discussed.
Bi-annual or quarterly examinations to assess weight, dental health, nail trim trimming and overall health are recommended.

Most Common Disorders

Dermatophytosis
Trauma (broken bones, bite wounds)
Diarrhea/constipation
Respitory disorders
Eye irritation/conjunctivitis
Convulsions/encephalitis/lead poisoning
Malocclusion/molar spurs
Penile hair rings in males/paraphimosis
“Fur-barbering” from stress
Heat stroke
Esophageal choke
GI stasis/bloat
Cardiomypathy
Rectal proplapse
Giardiasis

Zoonotic Potential

Listeria monocytogenes
Lymphocytic choriomeningitis virus (LCMV)
Dermatophytosis
Baylisascaris procyonis

Pet Rats Care Guide

noreply@blogger.com (Raymond Ave. Veterinary Hospital) — Wed, 08 Apr 2009 00:13:00 +0000

Pet Potential/Behavior:

Easy to care for.
Very little odor.
Affectionate and intelligent animals that bond quickly to their owners; rarely bite.
Albino rats tend to be the most calm and easily handled.
Hooded rats may be more aggressive and active.
Basically nocturnal, but can be active during the day.
Need at least 30 minutes each day for exercise.
Dogs, cats, and ferrets are rats’ predators.
Often difficult to litter train (fecal).

Anatomy:

Rats are characterized by elongated bodies, short fur, small eyes and ears and hairless tails.
Anatomically, rats have open inguinal canals, a diffuse pancreas, a divided stomach, a large cecum and an ospenis. Rats do not have gallbladders.
Rats do not vomit due to the presence of a limiting ridge at the junction of the esophagus and stomach.
Because rats have poor eyesight, they rely on whiskers and scents for sensory input and spatial orientation.
Mammary gland tissue may extend from over the shoulders to the perianal region.

Sexing and Reproduction:

Male rats have a scrotum, making them easily differentiated from female rats.
The anogenital distance is roughly twice as long in males as in females.
Only female rat possess nipples.
Rats are communal and male and females maybe combined in an uncrowded enclosure for breeding.
If a female is not bred by 8months of age, her pelvis will fuse and she may have difficulty giving birth later.
Anecdotally, spaying may help to prevent mammary tumors, which are common in middle aged to older rats.

Housing:

Housing should be constructed of escape proof wire mesh with plastic or metal solid flooring and should be large enough to allow nesting, burrowing and exercise.
Minimal enclosure size guidelines for one adult rat are 24” x 24” x 12” (61 x61x30cm).
A secure wire screen clamped top or other roof is necessary to prevent escape.
Ideal room temperature should be 65 80 F (18 26 C).
Ideal humidity should be 40 70%
Because rats are social and need companionship, they should be maintained in same sex or altered sex groups.
Suitable substrates include shredded paper (non inked), recycled newspaper composite materials or pellets, hardwood chips or shavings and compressed wheat straw.
Cedar should not be used as litter because it has been show to affect microsomal oxidative liver enzymes.
Bedding should be a minimum of ¼ to 1 inch deep and changed at least 1 2 times per week.
Exercise may be provided in the form of a large exercise wheel and climbing toys.
Housing should be cleaned weekly to minimize respiratory disease risk.

Diet:

Rats are omnivorous rodents.

Rat/rodent pellets provide a complete diet. Recommended brands include Mazuri, ZuPreem and Oxbow Pet Products.

Small amounts of fresh fruits, vegetables may be added.

Seed based diets are not recommended as they do not meet nutritional requirements and predispose to obesity.

Adults require 5 10 g of pellets per 100 g body weight daily and 10 ml water per 100 g body weight daily.

Fresh water should be available at all times, ideally provided via a drinking bottle or sipper tube.

Food consumption should be monitored when new food is offered because rats may be suspicious of new food.

Restraint:

Most rats will allow you to pick them up by placing the hand firmly over the back and rib cage.
A rat can also be scooped up with both hands.
The head can be restrained with the thumb and forefinger behind the jaws.
Scruffing the loose skin at the nape of the neck can help restrain an active rat, but many rats object to this.
Rats may bite aggressively if restrained against their will.

Blood Collection:

For blood collection, remove no more than 10% of total blood volume (1.3 ml per adult rat).
Tuberculin syringes with 25 27 ga needles can be used to collect small amounts of blood from lateral saphenous or lateral tail veins (superficial on either side of tail).
Alternatively, the ventral tail artery (ventromedial aspect of tail) can be accessed under general anesthesia.

Physical Examination:

Annual veterinary visits should include a physical exam and a review of diet and husbandry. The need for fecal analysis and blood hematology and chemistry should be discussed.
Bi annual or quarterly examinations to assess weight, dental health, nail trimmings and overall health are recommended.

Most common Disorders:

Weight loss/obesity/malnutrition
Overcrowding/stress/suffocation
Sudden death/Trauma
Murine respiratory mycoplasmosis M pulmonis
Cilia –associated respiratory bacillus
Corynebacterium Kutscheri
Sendai virus (most common in laboratory rats)
Sialodacryoadentis virus (SDV) Cervical salivary gland inflammation
Chronic progressive nephrosis
Overheating/Chilling/Heat stress
Malocclusion/overgrown incisors
Ectoparasitism
Congestive heart failure
Pituitary Tumor
Ulcerative pododermatitis
Hymenolepis spp.
Mammary tumors (fibroadenoma most common)
Salmonellosis
Septicemia
Ptyalism
Hemobartibekkisus (in colonies)

Zoonotic Potential:

Rat bite fever Streptobacillus moniliformis
Salmonellosis
Ectoparasitism
Leptospirosis
Hantaviral disease
Lymphocytic choriomeningitis virus (LCMV)

Pet Rabbits Care Guide

noreply@blogger.com (Raymond Ave. Veterinary Hospital) — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 23:24:00 +0000

PET APPEAL/BEHAVIOR:

Quiet animals.
Require relatively little space.
Engaging personalities.
Because rabbits are most active in the morning and early evening, they are appropriate pets for people who work during the day.
Rabbits are generally affectionate and playful and bond quickly with their owners.
Rabbits are highly intelligent and need attention and mental stimulation to thrive.
It is best when they are housed together as bonded pairs and trios rather than as single pets.
Although typically not aggressive, hostile behaviors can be seen when rabbits are frightened, in pain or expressing territoriality (especially around other rabbits to which they are not bonded).

SEXING AND REPRODUCTION:

Rabbits can be sexed by applying gentle pressure above the genitalia.
The penis will appear as a rounded protrusion with a flat end and circular hole (urethra).
The vulva has a more slit-like appearance with a pointed protrusion.
Neonatal and juvenile rabbits can be more difficult to sex, but after approximately 3 months of age the testes descend into hairless scrotal sacs located cranial to the penis.
There are medical and behavioral reasons to have rabbits altered.
Neutered male rabbits are less territorial; mark less with both urine and feces and fight less with other rabbits.
Unspayed female rabbits tend to be more territorial, even showing aggression and irritability toward their owners when their hormones fluctuating. Unspayed female rabbits over the age of 2 years have an extremely high rate of reproductive and mammary neoplasia.
Rabbits should be spayed or neutered when they are approximately 4-6 months old, but older rabbits in good health are also good surgical candidates.

HOUSING:

Wire cages are preferable over aquariums, as they provide better ventilation and thereby prevent the build-up of ammonia levels.
Cages should have narrower wire spacing on the bottom to protect feet from falling through.
Rabbits kept in wire-bottomed cages should have a platform made of wood. Cardboard or hay to protect their feet from constant wire pressure.
Floor space should be at least three times the stretched out length of the rabbit’s adult size.
Exercise pens can be created with baby gates or standing pens (electric cords and other hazards must be removed).
Recycled newspaper products (fiber or pellets), shredded paper towels or newspapers, straw or hay may be used as bedding materials.
Pine and cedar chips may cause respiratory and dermatologic problems and have been associated with elevated liver enzymes.
Clumping clay or corncob litters should not be used, because they may be ingested and cause gastrointestinal stasis or obstruction.
All rabbits should be allowed to exercise in a rabbit-sage area several times per week.

ENVIRONMENTAL ENRICHMENT:

Providing a variety of rabbit-safe toys will encourage exercise and decrease boredom.
The best and safest toys are readily available and inexpensive, including paper towel/toilet paper rolls and untreated cardboard boxes. Vegetables can be hidden to allow rabbits to “forage” for food for mental stimulation.
Sturdy hard plastic toys that are made for large birds or dogs and an untreated wood box with loose straw provide diversions. A tunnel or hide box will simulate burrows.

DIET:

A diet consisting of only commercial pellets will often lead to overeating, diarrhea and obesity.
Adding less digestible fiber, such as hay and leafy green vegetables, can significantly improve overall health and aid in maintaining gastrointestinal and dental health.
Hay: Unlimited amounts of grass hay should be offered on a daily basis. Alfalfa is suitable for young rabbits, but adults should eat only grass hays, such as timothy, orchard grass, oat, meadow or brome hay.
Pellets: An adult rabbit should be offered ¼ cup of high quality rabbit pellets per 5 lbs (2.27 kg) body weight per day. Juveniles can be fed unlimited pellets and hay with a small amount of green leafy vegetables. Timothy-based pellets are recommended for adult rabbits.
Vegetables: A minimum of 1 cup of fresh vegetables (mostly green leafy vegetables) for each 4 lbs (1.81 kg) body weight should be provided daily. One or more of the following fresh vegetables should be offered twice daily:
Collard greens, endive, dandelion greens and flowers (no pesticides), mustard greens, parsley, snow peas, romaine lettuce (no iceberg lettuce), red or green leaf lettuce, watercress, basil, bok choy, broccoli (mostly stems and leaves), cilantro, clover, escarole, radicchio and beet, carrot and radish tops.
Spinach, kale, cabbage and other vegetables high in oxalates should be fed only occasionally.
Fruits: Fruits should be limited to 1 Tbs or less per 5 lbs (2.27 kg) of body weight per day (none if dieting or if loose stools are a problem). High fiber fruits include apples, blueberries, melon, papaya and strawberries.
Water: Fresh water should be provided daily in either easily reachable sipper bottles or sturdy crocks. Containers should be washed with hot soapy water weekly.

RESTRAINT:

A towel or bath mat should always be placed on the examination table for traction.
Rabbits may be lifted gently, but firmly, by scooping the rear end with one hand as the rabbit is grasped behind the front legs with the other hand.
If the rear legs are not well supported, the rabbit can break its own back or legs by kicking.
The scruff alone or ears should not be used to lift a rabbit.
In order to take the temperature, clip the toenails or to facilitate examination of the ventrum and genitalia, the rabbit can be held in a “C” position. The rabbit is gently but firmly picked up with one hand behind the front legs, with the back positioned against the handler and the rear legs supported with the other hand.
Covering the eyes and head with a towel may soothe an anxious rabbit.

MOST COMMON DISORDERS:

Gastrointestinal stasis or obstruction
Rear limb paresis or paralysis
Cuterebra
Dental malocclusion and dental disease
Uterine adenocarcinoma, mammary tumors
Uterine hyperplasia
Pseudopregnancy
Abscesses
Skin mites (Cheyletiella), ear mites (Psoroptes cuniculi) and fleas
Urolithiasis
Encephalitozoonosis
Hypercalciuria/urinary sludge
Ulcerative pododermatitis
Vertebral fractures
Otitis interna and media
Torticollis
Cystitis
Fractures
Respiratory infections
Pasteurellosis
Obesity
Heat stroke
Diarrhea
Moist dermatitis from perineal soiling
Antibiotic toxicity/dysbiosis
Renal disease

Pet Hamster Care Guide

noreply@blogger.com (Raymond Ave. Veterinary Hospital) — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 22:55:00 +0000

Pet Potential/Behavior

Adapt well to captivity.
Small, do not require a lot of living space.
Relatively inexpensive to maintain.
Can easily become tame with frequent, gentle handling.
Nocturnal animals.
Hamsters may bite or show aggression in response to rough handling, sudden disturbances, being around other hamsters, or when they are pregnant, lactating, ill or in pain.
Hamsters should have a set schedule where a consistent amount of time and attention is given each day. This is especially important for maintaining tameness.
Common household dangers include predators (dogs, cats) and inappropriate by small children.

Sexing

Male hamsters have rather large scrotal sacs that give them a rounded posterior.
Gentle pressure on the abdomen of the male hamster will cause the testicles to descend into the sacs.
The female hamster’s posterior is pointed toward the tail.
Males have a greater anogenital distance than females, and a pointed genital papilla with a round opening.

Housing

Syrian golden hamsters are solitary and should not be housed in multiples under any circumstances.
Many golden hamsters have been injured and killed when litter mates were kept together past sexual maturity.
Hamsters prefer bedded (litter), solid –bottom flooring to wire-flooring.
An escape proof cage is a necessity, as hamsters can gnaw through wood, plastic and soft metals.
At least 150 square inches of floor space is recommended.
Solid connector tunnels provide for environmental enrichment but should be cleaned weekly.
Preferred temperatures are 65-79 F (18-26 C) with young maintained between 71-75 F (21-24 C).
Relative humidity should be between 40-70%.
The enclosure should be well cleaned at least weekly to reduce odors and decrease the likelihood of respiratory or skin inflammation associated with soiled bedding.
A hide box with deep litter for burrowing is recommended.
An optimal nesting material is undyed, unscented toilet tissue.
The hamster will instinctively manipulate toilet tissue to stimulate the burrow, and it helps the hamster control local environment temperature.
Commercial nesting materials (commonly called fluff) are not recommended because they may leas to intestinal blockages and strangulated limbs.
Aspen litter shavings are safe, but the oils on cedar shavings have been anecdotally with hair loss and respiratory disease.
Wheat straw or pelleted, recycled newspaper products are alternative products for appropriate bedding.

Environmental Enrichment

Hamsters are excellent climbers and burrowers and should be provided with safe outlets for these activities.
They enjoy running in exercise wheels; however, in order to prevent leg injuries, only wheels with a solid running surface should be used.
A wheel for an adult golden should be at least 8 inches in diameter.
Wood chew blocks are rarely effective means for keeping hamsters’ teeth worn down.
Iif clear plastic exercise balls are used for the hamsters to explore the home safely, the covers must be secured with tape to prevent the animal’s escape from the ball.
Exposure to direct sunlight in captivity is not desirable.
Lab blocks of chew sticks specifically designed for rodents may be recommended.

Diet

Young hamsters should be fed a pelleted diet with a minimum of 16% protein and 4-5% fat.
Hamsters eat solid food at 7-10 days of age, so food and water must be accessible for their size.
Mature adults thrive on a slightly lower protein level (12-14%).
Treats may include such items as tiny bits of apple (no seed or skin), raisins and walnuts.
Drinking water should be provided via sipper tubes.
The water should be changes daily to ensure that the tube is functional and not clogged with food.
Water can also be obtained from carrots and other fruits and vegetables.
Obesity may result from offering fatty seed diets or feeding too many treats; this may lead to atherosclerosis.
The food bowls should be carefully monitored to avoid mistaking seed hulls for whole seeds. Hamsters also tend to hoard food and hide it, leading to spoilage.
Hamsters pack large quantities of food into their cheek pouches.
Offering too much fresh produce and not enough fiber may result in diarrhea.

Restraint

Care must be taken to maintain control of the hamster and to prevent the handler from being bitten.
Hamsters can be scruffed by the abundant loose skin at the nape of the neck, held in the hands (if friendly), or placed in a small container (such as a can).
A small cloth may help restrain the rodent.

Blood Collection

Routine hematology testing is seldom done in hamsters due to the difficulty of obtaining a blood sample.
In research laboratories, the following areas are utilized for blood collections: toenail clip, tail vein cut, orbital sinus bleed and cardiac puncture (the animal must be anesthetized).

Injection Sites

Intavenous: Saphenous vein-difficult, anesthesia may be required.
Intramuscular: Quadriceps gluteals-may be hard to restrain 9 0.1ml per site)
Subcutaneous: Easy abundant loose skin, can inject 3-5 ml
Intraperitonael: Can inject 3-4ml in lower right quadrant.

Physical Examination

Annual veterinary visits should include a physical exam and a review of the diet and husbandry.
Bi-annual or quarterly examinations to assess weight, dental health, nail trimmings and overall health are recommended.

Most Common Disorders

Obesity/weight loss
Diarrhea (transitory)
Wet tail/proliferative ileitis (usually fatal)
Bite wounds/trauma
Dermatitis/demodectic mange
Cutaneous lymphoma
Hyperadrenocortism-assocaited alopecia
Sendai virus infection/pneumonia
Cilia-associated respitory bacillus
Corynebacterium kutscheri
Malocclusion/cheek pouch impaction
Malnutrition/starvation/dehydration
Hairballs/foreign bodies
Hymenolepis parasitism
Septicemia or toxemia
Chilling/overheating
Litter abandonment/Cannibalism
Amyloidosis/protein-losing nephropathy
Antibiotic toxicity
Cardiomyopathy/atherosclerosis
Neoplasis
Rectal prolapse
Stroke (with swift recocery)
Polycistic Disease
Diabetes mellitus in Chinese hamsters

Zoonotic Potential

Tularemia Francisella tularensis
Lymphocytic choriomeningitis virus (lcmv)
Dernatophytosis (trichophyton mentagrophytes, Microsporum spp.)
Salmonellosis
Hymenolepis nana
Leptospirosis
Campylobacteriosis

Pet Ferret Care Guide

noreply@blogger.com (Raymond Ave. Veterinary Hospital) — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 20:21:00 +0000

Ferrets (Mustela putorius furo) belong to the family Mustelidae; their relatives include weasels, mink and otters. The ferret is suspected to have originated from the European polecat (Mustela putorius) or steppe polecat (Mustela eversmannii). They were probably domesticated for rodent and rabbit control over 1900 years ago. In the US, the ferret is used primarily as a companion animal. Regulations on ferret ownership are controversial. In some states and cities ferret ownership is illegal, and a license is required in others.

PET APPEAL/BEHAVIOR:

Joyful, interactive and entertaining.
Mischievous thieves with intense exploratory behavior.
Independent, rarely sit still to be cuddled or petted.
Relatively easy to care for.
Quiet compared to other popular companion animals.
Sounds ferrets emit include “clucking” (giggle), hissing (exuberance, anger), squeaking (pain, surprise, fighting) and rarely, screaming (extremely frightened, pain).
Ferrets are rarely aggressive to humans, and biting behavior is often associated with a lack of proper socialization. Time and patient socializing will usually resolve the issue.
Ferrets are naturally curious and investigate novel items with their mouths; therefore, they should not be left unsupervised with infants or small children.
Ferrets should not have access to other small pets, as dogs and cats are predators by nature.
Ferrets are liable to steal items and stash them in unknown or difficult-to-reach areas.They are particularly fond of soft rubber items, which they may tear aggressively with their teeth and ingest.

SCENT OF THE FERRET:

While the majority of ferrets in the US are descented (removal of the anal sacs) at the time of neutering, a characteristic musky odor always remains.
Some consider anal saculectomy (“descanting”) as unnecessary because anal gland secretions are not responsible for all of the ferret’s musky odor.
The sebaceous secretions of the skin produce the overall scent of the ferret and seasonally influenced.
Bathing a ferret provides only temporary relief. A better alternative is to regularly change the ferret’s bedding.

SEXING AND REPRODUCTION:

Ferrets are easily sexed.
Males (“hobs”) can be identified by locating the preputial opening on the ventral abdomen, midway between the umbilicus and anus.
In normal males, a distinct white line may be identified coursing along the prepuce caudally, and the os penis can be readily palpated.
Testicles, if present, are located just ventral and cranial to the anus.
Females (“jills”) have a short anogenital distance, with a distinct vulva.
Normal females have a small vulva located approximately 1 cm ventral to the anus.
Most ferrets in the US are altered and descented before 6 weeks of age, prior to being sold as pets.
Jills are induced ovulators with a prolonged estrus. If they do not ovulate, females will remain in estrus and may develop aplastic anemia.
Jills must be spayed if not intended for breeding.
Many ferret breeders and owners delay gonadectomy until their ferrets reach puberty.
There may be a link between the age at neutering and the age of development of adrenal disease in that a lack of negative feedback from gonadal hormones, as a result of neutering, results in persistently elevated gonadotropic luteinizing hormone (LH), which may induce adrenal hyperplasia and/or neoplasia via functional LH receptors.
An aberrant tumor suppressor gene has also been implicated in the development of adrenal hyperplasia and subsequent neoplasia.

HOUSING:

Minimum cage size should be 22 x 20 x 16 inches (55 x 50 x 40 cm) for each ferret.
There are many cages designed for ferrets with multiple levels and constructed of galvanized metal and plastic.
Floors made of hard plastic are easiest to clean.
Housing and temporary housing at the veterinary clinic must be “ferret proofed” to prevent escape.
Cage bedding (e.g., blankets, old sweatshirts) must be changed and washed regularly in order to control odor.
Ferrets require at least a few hours of exercise outside of the cage each day.
The less time a ferret spends outside the cage, the more space and enrichment is needed inside the cage.
IV catheters are usually placed in the cephalic vein.
Injections may be given subcutaneously (shoulders, flanks), intravenously (cephalic or saphenous veins) and intramuscularly (quadriceps or biceps femoris).

MOST COMMON DISORDERS:

Gastrointestinal obstruction (foreign body ingestion, trichobezoar). Young ferrets are prone to ingestion of toys, such as foam rubber and latex.
Adrenal disease
Traumatic injuries
Cardiomyopathy, congestive heart failure
Pancreatic beta cell tumors (insulinoma)
Heliocobacter gastroenteritis
Inflammatory bowel disease
Lymphoma
Dermal mast cell tumors (behave benignly)
Splenomegaly (usually benignly)
Coccidiosis

Pet Python Snake Care Guide

noreply@blogger.com (Raymond Ave. Veterinary Hospital) — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 17:27:00 +0000

The ball python (Python regius), or royal python, is an attractive and gentle snake native to western and west-central Africa। These nocturnal pythons prefer mixed grassland and trees (savannah) as their habitat. When they are frightened they coil up into a ball; thus, the name “ball python.” Free-ranging ball pythons are considered a threatened species.

PET POTENTIAL/BEHAVIOR

Generally prefer to be left alone; shy and docile.
Small; typically reach 4 feet (120 cm) in length.
May grow 1 foot (30 cm) per year during the first 3 years
Crepuscular; active at dawn and dusk.
Inexperienced python owners must be prepared for potential feeding problems and internal and/or external parasite problems.
Ball pythons are notorious for not eating and may go for extended periods (sometimes over a year) without eating.
Health problems may occur secondary to chronic anorexia.
A newly purchased snake should be left alone in its enclosure for 1-2 weeks to acclimate to its new home.
Avoid any interactions until it is accustomed to its cage and is eating, then gentle handling may begin.
A frightened snake may lash with its tail, hiss, or in rare cases, bite.
Many reptiles are potential carriers of Salmonella and owners should use common sense in their personal hygiene when handling ball pythons.
Ball pythons are nocturnal; therefore, the best time to interact with the snake is during the evening hours when it is more active.

SEXING

Ball pythons are difficult to sex visually, but are easy to sex via a probe.
The males have thicker tails, and the anal spurs are longer and more curved.
Females have a probe depth of 2-4 subcaudal scales and males have hemipenes with a probe depth of 6-10 subcaudal scales.

HOUSING

Standard aquariums work well as enclosures.

IDEAL SIZE:

Hatchling: 10 gal tank (20” x 10” [50 x 25 cm])
Adult: 20-30 gal tank (36” x 12” [90 x 31 cm])
Snakes must be able to stretch out in an environment that encourages exercise.
The cage should have a screen top for adequate ventilation. Tops should be secure and escape proof.
Sliding doors should be secure and raised on a plinth to prevent waste accumulation.
A dark hiding box is mandatory for a sense of security and a place to rest during daylight hours.
The lids of glass and plastic vivaria must be at least 50% mesh to provide adequate ventilation.
Suitable substrates should be easy to clean and include newspaper, paper towels, indoor-outdoor carpet, Astroturf.
Unsuitable substrates are corncob, wood chips/shavings, gravel, dirt, rocks or other substances that could be ingested and cause blockage of the digestive tract.
Cypress mulch may be used as a substrate for adults but must be kept free of moisture and fecal/urinary contamination and changed frequently.
Some ball pythons will not eat unless they are able to burrow.
Bally pythons do not require sources of UV light in their enclosure because they are nocturnal and obtain vitamin D3 in their diet.
A climbing branch or two should be provided. Artificial greenery adds a nice touch as well as a sense of visual security for the snake.

TEMPERATURE:

Ambient air temperature should be provided throughout the enclosure.
Proper temperature regulation is the most important aspect in maintaining a healthy snake.
The enclosure must be kept between 80-85 F (26-29 C) during the day, with a basking area kept at 90-94 F (32-34 C). At night, the air temperature should not fall below 75F (24 C)
Room temperature is not adequate for the digestive process and health of the snake.
Heating may be provided by special reptile heating pads or tape or with overhead ceramic heaters in porcelain reflector hoods, screened off or placed to avoid direct contact with the snake. Thermostat control is ideal.
A barrier should be provided between the snake and any heating elements or hot surfaces.
Two thermometers are needed for the cage: one 1” (2.5 cm) above the floor in the general enclosure area and another near the basking site.
The use of “hot rocks” in the snake’s enclosure is a leading cause of thermal burns and should be avoided.

HUMIDITY

Proper humidity levels help to ensure successful sheds.
The ideal humidity of the enclosure is between 60-80%.
An alternative is to provide a shedding box (e.g., Tupperware container with moistened sphagnum moss or terry cloth towels and the two opposite corners cut out for entry and exit).
The snake can be trained to use this box for shedding. A box with moistened sphagnum moss may also serve as an egg-laying site.
Fresh water must be provided at all times in a water bowl that is large enough for the snake to soak in. the water should be changed when soiled.

DIET:

Bally pythons are fed at night.
Young snakes (2-3 years of age and 18-36 inches long) should be fed every 7-10 days; older snakes should be fed every 2-3 weeks.
A prey item appropriate to the size of the snake should be fed at each meal.
Ball pythons are constrictors—they coil around their prey and suffocate it.
Only stunned or prekilled prey should be offered to avoid sever injury to the snake.
Gerbils are the initial prey of choice, although dark-colored mice or hamsters might work as prey in a reluctant eater.
Some snakes do not recognize red-eyed white mice as a food item.
Rubbing mice with a gerbil can impart the scent of the gerbil to the mouse and aid in converting the snake to a mouse diet.
Frozen mice are available in many pet shops.
As thesnake gets large, small rats are ideal.

MOST COMMON DISORDERS:

Anorexia
Endoparasitism
Necrotizing dermatitis
Respiratory disease
Stomatitis (mouth rot)
Ectoparasitism (mites and ticks)
Dysecdysis (retained skin shed, retained eye spectacles)
Obstipation/constipation
Dystocia/Retained eggs
Bite wounds from prey
Inclusion body disease
Rectal/Colon or uterine prolapse
Spinal Fractures/Trauma/thermal burns

ZOONOTIC POTENTIAL:

Salmonella
Aeromonas
Camoylobacter
Enterobacter
Erysipelothrix rhusiopathiae
Mycimbacterium sp.
Zygomycosis
Candida
Pentastomiasis