Enjoying Paris On and Off the Beaten Path

Two for One at Versailles through March

2012-02-02T14:51:00.000-08:00

If you will be in France in February and March and want to go to the great Chateau of Versailles, check out their special internet offer where you can buy two tickets for the price of one. Tickets must be purchased by the end of Feb and used by the end of March. This is a sweet deal when the Chateau is much less crowded.

http://billetterie.chateauversailles.fr/online/index.aspx

France Through Eyes of Faith in March

2012-01-30T13:52:00.000-08:00

Join me in a small group immersion in the spirited mind of the middle ages in Paris, Chartres, Angers and Reims. France Through Eyes of Faith explores great gothic cathedrals, museums with exceptional medieval religious art, the luminous Apocalypse Tapestries and Jean Lurcat Chant du Monde tapestries in Angers and more. We learn to 'read' the ancient stained glass and the Cathedral statuary telling stories and teaching lessons. Finally, a day trip to Champagne to visit Reim's Notre Dame cathedral, a gothic gem where the Kings of France were crowned and the lesser known St. Remy Basilica. And a champagne cellar tour to toast our trip!

March 17 to 24. Details on www.yourgreatdaysinparis.com This tour is fun and 'enriching'. Call Sally at 781 391 6183 or email s.peabody@mac.com

Special Valentines Day Cooking Class for Couples

2012-01-20T19:17:00.002-08:00

Alain Ducasse's Ecole de Cuisine has a very clever idea. They are offering a special cooking class for Valentine's Day evening for couples. Prepare a delicious luxe menu for two with one of the talented instructors then, enjoy your meal 'en amoreux' with a flute of Champagne and glasses of wine. Price is 330 E. Time, 6:30-10:30 at the school located on 64 rue de Ranelagh in the 16th. The menu is;
AU MENU :
Coquillettes au jambon
et truffe noire, jus d’un rôti
Homard breton, sucs de tomate, gingembre
Dessert glacé, géranium
Et pour accompagner :
coupe de champagne et vins

Contact ecole@alain-ducasse.com for reservations.

Auto Lib comes to Paris

2012-01-14T17:50:00.000-08:00

It had to happen. Paris Mayor Bertrand Delanoe has been creative about cutting pollution and traffic in Paris. The hugely popular Velib bicycle rental program (in Paris and several French cities) was a first big step. Now, for folks who need a car only sometimes the AutoLib fleet is on the Paris streets at smartly designed rental kiosks. These electric cars are compact, shiny blue and cool looking. Here is a link to a good article that describes how all this works!

http://www.dw-world.de/dw/article/0,,15469794,00.html

Delightful Sempé Retrospective at the Hotel de Ville

2012-01-04T13:28:00.000-08:00

There is a major (and free) exhibition of the drawings by cartoonist and illustrator Jean-Jacques Sempé at the Hotel de Ville through 11 February. Totally delightful.

The "Sempé, A Bit of Paris" exhibition lets us look at the world through the eyes of Jean-Jacques Sempé. Over 300 original drawings along with with texts by the artist are displayed at the Hôtel de Ville.

Sempé has been translated into twenty-five languages and is the creator of several thousand drawings. One of the most famous French cartoonists he has reached generations of readers over the last fifty years. This is a major retrospective,
humour, artistry, poetry... its all here.

Sempé settled on the Left Bank when he arrived in Paris. He frequented Montparnasse and Saint-Germain des Prés, enjoying locations like brasserie Lipp, the Café de Flore, the Closerie des Lilas, the Chez Castel club, the Luxembourg Gardens. He became friends with notables including Françoise Sagan, Jacques Tati, Jacques Prévert, Raymond Savignac, René Goscinny and had a devoted following for his work.

New-York, the New-Yorker and Sempé. In 1965 Sempé visited New York and began to write for the New Yorker. Sempé created 'Air Mail' a beloved column that explored Sempés views of America. Sempé also created over one hundred covers for The New Yorker.

Practical information
The show is open through February 11, 2012
Free at the Hôtel de Ville. Metro: Hôtel de Ville.
Daily except Sundays and public holidays, from 10am to 7pm

Paris Winter Sales

2012-01-02T08:22:00.001-08:00

Put on your shopping shoes and get out there! January 11 to February 14 are the dates for Les Soldes, the vast annual winter sales in Paris. With a weaker Euro the deals should be even better for overseas shoppers this year. http://www.shoppingbyparis.com/en/

Savvy Travel to Paris

2011-12-30T10:18:00.000-08:00

Savvy Travel to Paris

Join me on January 10 at 5:45 for my Savvy Travel to Paris Class at Cambridge Center for Adult Education, Cambridge MA. Great material, good information and the class location is right next store to Burdick's Chocolates where you can pick up a cup of real Parisian style chocolat chaud before or after the class.

Meilleurs Voeux,

Sally Peabody

New and Gorgeous: Carette on the Place des Vosges

2011-12-21T15:02:00.000-08:00

Carette, a new gourmet hot-spot has arrived on the Place des Vosges, amidst the modern art galleries, cafes and small,lovely hotels. A beloved Parisian institution, the original Carette is located on Place du Trocadero near the Eiffel tower and has long been a fine destination for good tea, coffee, snacks or meals. This second more luxurious space was designed by Hubert de Givenchy and sits within the arcades of one of the prettiest squares in France. One can enjoy gourmet breakfasts, their celebrated macarons, croissants and other artfully made patisserie. At tea time (between 3 p.m. and 6 p.m.) you can opt for assorted finger sandwiches or a plate of 5 mini-macarons. A range of choices for a discerning palate are on the menu. The fabulous decor is reminiscent of the glory days of the former Place Royale. The elegant interior is pure Louis XVI style. Marie Antoinette would have loved this spot. You will too!

25 Place des Vosges, Paris 3 (Marais)
Tél 01 48 87 94 07
Métro: Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert

Skating in Paris In Some Special Places

2011-12-09T13:43:00.000-08:00

One of the loveliest winter traditions in Paris are the 'temporary' ice skating rinks set in magnificent places. Yes, ice Skating on the Eiffel Tower. From Dec. 15th through Feb. 9th, you can skate on the first level of the Eiffel Tower. It is a small rink but rather magical. Skating is free with paid admission to the Tower. And if you like to skate you’ll find several other rinks around Paris, including in front of the magnificent Hotel du Ville. Skates are available for rent.

Holiday Season Concerts at Notre Dame

2011-12-06T04:29:00.000-08:00

Holiday Concerts at Notre Dame Cathedral? Here are three concerts in December.

Tuesday, December 13, 8:30PM, Tickets 18 euros- Organ recital of Bach, Dupré, Messiaen, and Reber by organist Pascal Reber from the magnificent Strasbourg Cathedral
Tuesday, December 20, 8:30PM, Admission free - Christmas concert with organist Olivier Latry
Friday, December 29, 8:30PM,Tickets 18 euros- Gregorian Chants

http://www.notredamedeparis.fr/spip.php?article1198

Check Pariscope for other concerts during the holiday season. Paris is always a musical feast and the holiday season is especially rich.

Stuff Parisians LIke

2011-12-05T18:26:00.001-08:00

Now here is one finely observed, very funny book (and e-book). Olivier Magny, who is known to many as an ace sommelier and wine expert (O'Chateau winetastings and wine bar) turns out to be a very funny writer as well. Olivier's book is all about deciphering the often puzzling, sometimes irritating behaviors of that special breed of person... the Parisian. Stuff Parisians Like will have you laughing out loud... repeatedly and heartily.

After reading about how St. Pellegrino water is now the bottled water of choice for hip Parisians I couldn't help but look around in every bistro when I was in Paris in October. No Evian, no Perrier, no, no no. Yep, 'St. Pe' on every table. Decipher Parisians elaborate social rituals around getting together, eating and drinking, differences in the ways men and women view food, sex, wine. And oops.. how do 'they' see us? Where's the Beauf indeed. This is a hilarious book. A great gift and a good read anytime.

Paris With Children (or teens)

2011-12-05T18:24:00.000-08:00

In Paris with the kids? Your Great Days in Paris is working with a new specialist private tour guide who focuses on families with children, and taking her clients to child-friendly neighborhoods, parks, places to drink amazing chocolate or find that best eclair. She also is aces for shopping tours or cultural tours for teens, with or without their parents. Contact us.

Uh Oh. SNCF Strike around the Holidays

2011-12-05T18:16:00.000-08:00

If you are in France in December and planning to use the trains to travel, beware.

SNCF drivers for the national France rail network have filed plans to strike every weekend in December, including busy Christmas and New Year's Eve weekends. The notice was posted at the blog maintained by FGAAC-CFDT, the union of professional train drivers.

This will present significant problems for everyone trying to move about during a super busy season. A big lump of coal.

Great Gift Idea: winetasting gift certificates for Paris

2011-11-28T12:46:00.000-08:00

Olivier Magny and his enterprising vinophile crew at O'Chateau offer a variety of wonderful wine tastings, wine dinners and things-wine. They are expert at sourcing out delicious wines from smaller or lesser-known producers ranging from roses, to a world of whites, to luscious reds. Check out http://www.o-chateau.com/paris-wine-tasting for details on getting you or a loved one a gift certificate.

December Special Tour of Holiday Treats French-style

2011-11-17T14:34:00.000-08:00

One of our Paris colleagues is offering a delicious-sounding holiday season tour in Paris. First of all, feel the spirit of Christmas with a special holiday market tour before sampling a variety of regional holiday specialties. Participants will discover traditional French products in famous shops known for their expertise. Taste samples of fine chocolate and other delights, including a few of "the 13 desserts" (artisanal candied fruits, nougat, gingerbread, marrons glacés, Christmas Cakes).

Then experience the warmth of Christmas-tide in a Parisian-style tearoom while enjoying a hot beverage. The guide will tell you about the history of French Christmas traditions.

« Price includes beverage and tastings:
« Monday to Saturday, from 2.30pm to 5.30pm (in December only)
«1 English-speaking guide for a maximum of 8 people

115 Euros per person, 2 persons minimum Contact sally@yourgreatdaysinparis.com

Nov 25 Only... discounts on Paris Apartments this winter

2011-11-15T14:38:00.000-08:00

One of our best colleagues in Paris, Haven In Paris, www.haveninparis.com is offering a great 'Black Friday' deal. Only on Nov. 25 you can book one of their lovely Paris apartments for December, January or February (Christmas week not included) for substantial discounts. This beats hitting the malls for sales!

Check out their website and talk with me about planning some fabulous custom shopping or foodie tours. Winter is wonderful in Paris... and airfares are lower too!

Newly Rennovated Orsay Museum Opens

2011-11-10T08:37:00.000-08:00

The Orsay, with its stunning collection of impressionist painters, sculptures and decorative arts from the turn of the (20th) century era, has reopened after a thorough renovation. The art is now displayed against a soft grey background, a color palette carefully chosen to highlight the tones within the paintings. The cafes and restaurants have all been redone to improve the visitor experience. It will be wonderful to be able to re-visit all our favorites in this stunning rehab of a grand old train station once again!

And a little further afield, be sure to catch the exhibition of the Stein family private collections at the Grand Palais. Rich in Picasso's, Matisse, Braque and so much more, this private collection is a lovely compliment to the works in the Orsay.

Two Fabulous Classics in Paris: Its good to go back!

2011-10-18T11:15:00.001-07:00

I had only one day in Paris passing through from my Pays Basque culinary tour on the way to Istanbul and my upcoming Turkish culinary/cultural tour. The weather on October 14 was gorgeous, late summer warm and blue sky. What to do with one day to choose from this great cities bounteous options... three things, take two good long walks, have a good lunch and later in the day, drink the best chocolate imaginable.

Long walk number one was along the Canal St. Martin, that charmingly winding canal with numerous locks and arched foot bridges in the 11th near Place de Republique. Lunch as at one of my favorite convivial classic Paris restaurants, the Auberge Pyrenees-Cevennes, 106 rue de la Folie Mericourt. This place is a gem. The chef owner and his wife (Francoise) are a very good pair indeed. The cuisine is Lyonnais with some SW France influences (a piperade for an appetizer for example). The very good value 30.50 Euro menu offers numerous delicious starters including classics like salade frisee with lardons and a poached egg, or a salad gourmande with a hefty slab of foie gras, or, poached warm herring. The mains include a massive cassoulet, sausages from Lyon, a beautiful grilled salmon filet with a sorrel sauce and on and on. The desserts are like a who's who of grand-mere's best... profiteroles, excellent tarte tatin, Ile Flottant, sorbets, and more. Portions are generous to say the least.

The cliente is a very faithful group of Parisian gourmands and food loving locals, plus the lucky tourist who occasionally finds this gem. Francoise and her staff keep the place filled with laughter and pay very good attention to their clients. Put this one on your list of must visits. It is authentic, real, and of a dying breed in Paris where sushi shops now seem to outnumber real bistros.

At the end of the afternoon, checking out the Haute Marais, the increasingly hip area north of the Marais propoer and south of Republique, I stopped in at the stunning shop and salon of master chocolatier Jacques Genin. Enjoyed the most delicious cup(s) of chocolate chaud served in a pretty while porcelain pitcher. Lovely texture, rich dark chocolate, absolutely stunning and a steal of sorts at 6.5 Euros. 133 rue de Turenne.

Paris-Angers. A Spirited Day Trip

2011-10-12T12:22:00.000-07:00

Check out my story on our day trip from Paris to Angers in the heart of the Loire Valley last March. The purpose: to spend a day immersed in the extraordinary 14th century 'Apocalypse Tapestries', a world heritage treasure. And, to visit a magnificent contemporary series of tapestries created by 20th century painter Jean Lurcat called "Le Chant du Monde". This excellent day was part of my new Paris Through Eyes of Faith trip but is easy to do on your own.

Read the story on Bonjour Paris where there are also some gorgeous images.

http://www.bonjourparis.com/story/paris-day-trip-to-angers-apocalypse-tapestries/

Angers is well worth more than a day of course. It is a sympathique small city with good bistros and wine bars. It is near some very good wine growing areas in the Loire Valley like Saviennieres. But these two sets of tapestries are reason enough to go. Stunning.

La Semaine du Gout.. Good Tastes in Paris

2011-09-28T08:07:00.000-07:00

October is a busy month in Paris... the Fete de Vendanges in Montmartre, Les Nuits Blanches, and, a week of culinary celebrations during La Semaine du Gout among others.
Check out the 'Village Europeen' on the Esplanade at Invalides from 10-8 October 12 to 14 to tour ateliers of varied European Nations celebrating their cuisines. And, in the 7th arrondissement, along the rue Cler, Motte Piquet and St. Dominique, brasseries and restaurants will set up "Tables dans le rue" where you can enjoy good food and wine at communal tables. The website is: http://foodcultureeurope.eu/#

Annual Paris Antiques Fair, Versailles Fountains Show

2011-09-21T13:35:00.000-07:00

The annual very large Paris Antiques and Art Fair will be 'on' at the Palais de Congres from September 24 through October 3. If this show is beyond your budget, dreams are of course, complimentary.

Another lovely fall activity is a trip out to the Chateau of Versailles. The noted "Grands Eaux Musicales" fountains/music shows remain 'on' on Saturdays and Sundays through October 30. There is an extra admission for these well worth the time and money fountain shows.

www.chateauversailles-spectacles.fr/spectacle.php?spe=1&lang=eng

Ultra Contemporary Art in Paris-- ArtBus

2011-09-20T09:52:00.000-07:00

October 1 is the annual Nuits Blanche event where contemporary art installations, concerts, performances and more sprout up all over Paris and people enjoy, well, all night if they wish to.

ArtBus is offering an excellent looking minibus tour of selected 'ultracontemporary' artists and their expositions in spaces as varied as pop up galleries or art bookstores, in private apartments or on public squares. From 11-5 on Saturday Oct. 1 this is a preview of selected events for the Nuit Blanche. The tour will also get you to lots of off the radar venues. A great idea!

www.art-process.com Call or email to register well in advance.

Ferreting Out Delicious Chocolate in Istanbul

2011-09-16T18:02:00.000-07:00

It's not Paris, but, you may enjoy my article on finding delicious chocolate in Istanbul just published on Chocolate Atlas.

http://www.chocolateatlas.com/L2Other/79Peabody_Istanbul/Chocolate_Istanbul.html

And if a sojurn in the magnificent city of Istanbul interests you, or a small group tour for culinary and cooking experiences or, exploring wonderfully diverse regions of Turkey appeals, take a look at my new website www.turkishjourneys.com

Cezanne and Fra Angelico Shows in Paris This Fall

2011-09-04T14:31:00.001-07:00

Paris has 90 plus museums and monuments. How do you get to see them all! Beyond the always worth a visit Louvre, Orsay, Pompidou, there are many great options. And in addition to the national museums, and City of Paris Museums, there are small gems that are privately run. Check these two out this fall:

The beautiful mansion that houses the Jacquemart-Andre museum at 158 Blvd Haussmann in the 8th is featuring a show called Fra Angelico and the Masters of Light. If you go, be sure to have lunch in the 'tea room' or enjoy an afternoon patisserie and tea. This was once the mansion's elegant dining room and it is a lovely space to relax. www.culturespaces.com September 23 to Jan. 16.

The recently renovated Museé du Luxembourg on the edge of the ever beautiful Luxembourg Gardens, 19 rue de Vaugirad in the 6th, is another wonderful small museum. From October 10 to Feb. 26 the exhibition will be on Cezanne's work. www.museeduluxembourg.fr

Vintage Cars in 'Ephemeral Museum" Sept 30

2011-09-01T17:57:00.000-07:00

If you love gorgeous vintage cars and will be in Paris on September 30, head over to the Place de Vendome for the stunning display of cars on display this day prior to the start of the Paris-Deauville Rally. This annual rally is the first week of October and the cars are vaut le voyage to look over and enjoy prior to their rally start. The name "Musée Ephemére says it all.

http://www.clubdelauto.org/index.php?lang=en