Edinburgh is not short of pubs. In particular the Royal Mile is not short of overly touristy pubs which dish up a decent selection of beer and whisky alongside the usual servings of Haggis or Fish and Chips but without much of an authentic atmosphere. The Waverley, within spitting distance of the Royal Mile, is not one of those pubs.

The stark black and white exterior hides a time capsule where the worn carpet and battered looking bar are all part of the charm.

There are three beers on tap, Guinness, 80/- and Tennents, and the beer is served in traditional dimple mugs to add to the character. There is also a limited range of spirits and bottles. This is a pub for ambience, not the drink selection.

Even the music is usually old school 1920s or 30s tunes. In fact, if it weren’t for the fringe posters on the wall advertising shows from the last 50 odd years it might be the 1920s that you have been transported to.

The dust and bohemian character add real flavour in the bar but don’t offer the same experience when visiting the toilets, I would avoid if at all possible.

If you are looking for some atmosphere to go alongside your pint the Waverley is perfect.

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Waverley Bar | Bars | Beer (pint) £ 4
1 St Marys Street | +441315571050
Mon – Fri 17:00 – late, Sat 19:00 – late

Lupe Pinto’s is so much more than a deli, with all the unusual and hard-to-find international ingredients crammed in it, it’s an Aladdin’s cave of food.

This tiny shop in the Tollcross neighbourhood is an Edinburgh institution having been around since 1991. It’s my ‘go-to’ for Mexican sauces, American candy, Spanish wines and Indian spices.

But it’s also, literally, so much more than a deli. They have two cookbooks and quite the collection of recipes on their website or on leaflets picked up in store. I have never looked for another chilli recipe since I discovered theirs 12 years ago. They also run tasting evenings and cook off competitions which are great opportunities to meet like-minded foodies. This adds to the community feeling the shop has. It is the same staff that has served me for the past 12 years, getting to know what I like and suggesting new ingredients or recipes to try each time I’m in the shop.

I have to try and limit my trips to the store as I could work my way through a bag of their tortilla chips a day if I let myself, and their homemade salsa and guacamole are phenomenal!

The stock does vary slightly depending on what is available but it is always possible to request items or find out when they will next be in store.

Lupe Pinto’s perfectly combines my love of food and travel, my idea of heaven!

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Lupe Pintos | Shopping
24 Leven Street | +441312286241
Mon – Wed & Sat 10:00 – 18:00, Thu – Fri 10:00 – 19:00, Sun 12:30 – 17:30

Whenever I’m stuck for gift ideas and don’t know exactly what to get Helios Fountain is the place to go. I’ve yet to come away disappointed.

Helios Fountain is a gift shop that sells almost every type of knick-knack you can think of. It’s one of those places you can get lost in for hours exploring each shelf to see what they have hidden away in the corners.

Outside the shop there’s a fantastic bubble machine which disperses bubbles down the Grassmarket drawing people into the shop. It can be quite a surprise if you don’t expect it!

It’s not the cheapest place to pick up candles or toys, or the most expensive, but it is one of the nicest shops in Edinburgh for the range of stock they carry, and the friendliness of the staff.

They have a fantastic selection of old-fashioned wooden toys and stuffed animals at the back of the store and a good collection of books which focus mostly on the Rudolf Steiner school of thought. There is also an extensive craft section with material for jewellery, candle and card making.

If you are on the lookout for quirky gifts this is the place to go.

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Helios Fountain | Shopping
7 The Grassmarket | +441312297884
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 18:00, Sun 12:00 – 17:00

Living in the old town I am surrounded by pubs and cafes catering to tourists looking for traditional Scottish fare. That’s what makes Circus a welcome change to the norm.

It’s hard to pinpoint exactly what Circus is. It’s promoted as a café and bistro but there is also a beer garden, art shows and sometimes live music.

The same goes for the food. It is owned by the same people that run Empires, a Turkish restaurant slightly further down the street, and there is a definite Turkish/Mediterranean flavour to the menu but they also serve full Scottish breakfasts and burgers. I’ve never been in for dinner but the lunch and breakfast menus are both extensive and tasty. There are also vegan and gluten-free options on the menu.

In the long run though I find it easy to get past working out what kind of place Circus is and enjoy the relaxed, bohemian vibe. The restaurant is bright and airy with tables made from reclaimed wood and bright Turkish lamps hanging from the roof. The walled terrace at the back of the café comes as a bit of a revelation in the middle of the old town but is a great spot to enjoy a drink in the lovely Scottish summer weather (if we ever get some).

Circus is a great place to take a break from exploring the old town any time of the day, just remember your cash – they don’t accept any cards.

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Circus Bistro | Coffee & tea, Restaurants (Turkish/Scottish) | Lunch £ 7.50
8 St Marys Street | +441315566963
08:00 – 22:00

I have to admit that it was the word cupcake that got me into Miss Katie’s shop the first time. Not going to lie, I was a little disappointed to not see a case of sweet treats but I soon got over it seeing what else was on offer – the shop is literally dripping in unique, vintage-inspired jewellery.

The shop is beautifully decorated with vintage furniture, frames and tea sets which display a huge selection of distinct and unusual items. There are pendants made from old postage stamps or comic strips, earrings with teacups dangling from them and beautiful pearl bracelets.

None of the items are too pricey for such unusual items. The average price for a necklace is probably around £ 20.

It’s a small shop and can be a bit overwhelming to look through all the items on offer but it is worth it to find the perfect piece.

Even without the cupcakes Miss Katie’s is the perfect place for a wee treat.

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Miss Katie Cupcake | Shopping | Necklace £ 20.00
52 Cockburn Street | +447969202214
10:00 – 18:30 daily

For years there has been a lack of decent spots for a drink and a bite to eat before or after a trip to the cinema at Fountainbridge – that was all before The Fountain reopened last year.

The Fountain used to have a bit of a reputation as not-the-classiest joint in town, however last year it reopened with a completely different atmosphere and clientele.

The décor is quirky, with items such as old fashioned suitcases and wooden clogs decorating the windowsills and ledges. This theme follows through to the presentation of the food, for example chips are served in flowerpots.

The menu is fairly traditional for a pub with the usual fish and chips, pies, etc but with a bit of twist. The portions and quality are excellent. There is also a good selection of craft beers and ciders on the menu as well as a decent wine list. It is an excellent place to try some newer Scottish beers such as WEST or Innis & Gunn.

The sofas and armchairs in the bar offer a wonderful, welcoming atmosphere for relaxing and catching up with friends over a pint. The dining area is in a raised area to the side of the bar and can get a little crammed at the weekends.

The Fountain is a great stop for food and drink whether or not a trip to the cinema is included.

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The Fountain | Bars | Beer (pint) £ 4.00
131 Dundee Street | +441312291899
Sun – Tue 10:00 – 00:00, Wed – Sat 10:00 – 01:00

Chances are you will come across the name Eteaket during any visit to Edinburgh as their teas are ubiquitous across most tea shops in town; you can’t beat a visit to their own tea room though, to appreciate the full experience.

In the basement of a building just off George Street the café has a bit of a rabbit warren feel with low roofs and alcoves. It’s usually crammed but it is worth any wait you might have.

The tea menu is huge! I never knew there were so many types of tea. All of them are served with a small hourglass to make sure they are steeped for the optimum time – tea is a serious business in Eteaket. My favourites are the flowering teas, the leaves are served in bundles that open and bloom as they infuse.

The mis-matched china cups and saucers add to the ambience, it is a lovely mix of an old-fashioned tea house and a modern boutique.

As well as the traditional afternoon teasm there are also cream teas on the menu and a selection of cakes and sandwiches. There are gluten and/or dairy free options in the cakes and sandwiches and even offer a gluten-free afternoon tea.

The service can be slow and at peak times it can feel like a crammed and rushed experience but it is worth persevering, getting a table and enjoying the full tea experience at a leisurely pace.

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Eteaket Tea Room | Coffee & tea | Tea from (cup) £ 2.20
41 Fredrick Street | +441312262982
Mon – Sat 09:00 – 18:00, Sun 11:00 – 18:00

Ecco Vino is the perfect place to stop for a glass of wine or a bite to eat on the way between the old town and Waverley train station.

It’s a snug and relaxed spot near the bottom of Cockburn Street (pronounced Co-burn). Dark wood and rows of wine bottles add a cosy feel to the small wine bar. The seats are mostly lined up against one wall so it can be very crowded at times as you get to know your fellow diners/drinkers maybe a little more than you wanted to!

The bowls of pasta or plates of antipasti on the menu are perfect to accompany a glass of wine from their extensive list. The food is fresh and tasty and the prices are reasonable – a bowl of pasta costs around £ 8 – £ 10.

The staff is always friendly and happy to chat about the food or drink options. They also run a wine club for folk who want to know a bit more about what they are drinking.

In winter they add mulled wine to the menu, a wonderful opportunity for a treat on the way home from Christmas shopping. In summer time the windows at the front open up and there are seats outside, perfect for a wee glass of something to go alongside a bit of people watching.

Any time of year Ecco Vino is the ideal spot for a casual glass of wine and a catch up with friends.

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Ecco Vino | Bars, Restaurants (Italian) | Main from £ 5
19 Cockburn Street | +441312251441
Sun – Thu 08:00 – 23:00, Fri – Sat 08:00 – 00:00

Mother India Cafe is the perfect restaurant for people like me, those who can never make up their mind what to order when eating out.

I was a little dubious when I first heard about an Indian tapas restaurant, it sounded like an unlikely combination but, turns out, it is a phenomenal idea – how did no one else come up with this? It’s run by the same people who own Mother India in Glasgow (see the Mother India article) offering the same fantastic food but in smaller portions.

The café is always busy with a fun and buzzy atmosphere. Although you might get seated without a reservation it’s worth booking if possible as there can be a wait. It is a favourite of mine for visitors who don’t know much about Indian food as it’s a good opportunity to try a selection of dishes, both traditional and more unusual.

It’s recommended to get three or four dishes between two people. I would recommend sticking to the lower end of that as the servings can be large and it is always possible to order more food later.

Each time I visit I find a new favourite on the menu, some of the best I’ve had recently are the chili garlic chicken, patina lamb and the okra and potato bhaji.

The service is always excellent and the staff is more than happy to help when making the decision of what or how much to order.

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Mother India Cafe | Restaurants (Indian) | Main dish £ 5.00
3-5 Infirmary Street | +441315249801
Mon – Thu 12:00 – 14:00 & 17:00 – 22:30, Fri – Sat 12:00 – 23:00, Sun 12:00 – 22:00

The Traverse, a small theatre in an office building, has a reputation that extends far beyond its subterranean location. I first learned about the theatre at school when we studied some of the plays developed at the Traverse.

Celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, the Traverse is known for original writing and well-known Scottish playwrights such as Liz Lochhead having strong associations with the theatre. But they also present revivals and Scottish premieres. For example they recently showcased the Scottish premiere of 8, by Academy-Award winner Dustin Lance Black.

The Traverse is also a good spot for a glass of wine or a bite to eat. There is a large café bar with good quality food, the burgers are my favourite. There are no windows which can make it dark and stuffy but also means that it is often less crowded than nearby bars above ground (check the Lebowskis and Hanging Bat articles) which can get packed with the after work crowd.

I have two favourite ways to see plays at the Traverse - ”A Pie, A Pint and A Play” offers lunch and a play for £ 14, or for around £ 6 you can sometimes catch rehearsed readings. These give the opportunity to see a new play in development stage. Both are excellent ways to see something different without breaking the bank.

Whether you are looking for a bite to eat, a drink with friends or to see some new theatre the Traverse is the perfect spot.

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Traverse Theatre | Art & culture, Bars, Restaurants (British) | Main from £ 5
10 Cambridge Street | +441312283223
Mon – Wed 11:00 – 00:00, Thu – Sat 11:00 – 01:00, Sun depending on performance