You’ve got a decent camera. You understand exposure. But something about your photos still feels… off. More often than not, the culprit isn’t your gear — it’s composition. The good news? These mistakes are easy to spot once you know what to look for, and even easier to fix. Here are ten composition habits that might be holding your photos back.

1. Putting the subject dead-centre every time The rule of thirds exists for a reason. Placing your subject slightly off-centre creates visual tension and a more natural, engaging image. Try positioning eyes, horizons, or focal points along the grid lines instead.

2. A cluttered, busy background Your background is working either for you or against you — there’s no neutral. Before you shoot, scan the whole frame. Distracting elements behind your subject? Move your feet, change your angle, or open up your aperture.

3. Cutting off limbs at the joints Cropping someone at the wrist, ankle, or knee looks awkward and unintentional. If you need to crop a person, do it between joints — mid-forearm, mid-shin, mid-thigh.

4. A horizon that’s not actually horizontal A tilted horizon is one of the most common and most fixable mistakes in photography. Use your camera’s built-in level (most have one), or spend 10 seconds straightening in post.

5. No clear subject Ask yourself: what is this photo of? If the answer is vague, your viewer won’t know where to look. Every strong image has a clear visual anchor. Find yours before you press the shutter.

6. Not using leading lines Roads, fences, rivers, staircases — these are gifts. Leading lines pull the viewer’s eye into the frame and give your image depth and direction. Look for them in every scene.

7. Shooting everything from eye level Eye level is comfortable, but it’s also predictable. Get low and shoot upward for drama. Get high and shoot down for context. Even a small change in angle can transform a photo entirely.

8. Ignoring negative space Empty space isn’t wasted space. Negative space gives your subject room to breathe and can make an image feel calm, deliberate, and modern. Don’t feel compelled to fill every corner of the frame.

9. Merging edges — where your subject “touches” the background When a tree, pole, or wall appears to grow out of someone’s head, it’s called a merge — and it’s distracting. Check your edges before shooting and adjust your position to separate the subject from the background.

10. Forgetting to simplify The best compositions usually have one thing to say. Before you shoot, ask: what can I remove from this frame? Great composition is often about subtraction, not addition.

The great thing about composition is that it costs nothing and improves everything. You don’t need a new lens or a camera upgrade — just a more intentional eye. Pick one of these to focus on during your next shoot and see what a difference it makes.

The post 10 Composition Mistakes That Are Quietly Ruining Your Photos (And How to Fix Them) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

RAW vs JPEG

If you’ve poked around your camera’s menu settings, you’ve probably come across an option that says something like “Image Quality” or “File Format” — and two choices staring back at you: RAW and JPEG. Most beginners shrug and leave it on JPEG because, well, it’s the default. But understanding this one setting could genuinely transform the photos you’re able to produce. Let’s break it down in plain English.

What actually is a RAW file?

Think of a RAW file as a digital negative — it’s all the data your camera sensor captured, completely unprocessed. When you shoot RAW, your camera records everything: every detail in the shadows, every highlight, every colour nuance. Nothing is thrown away.

The trade-off? Your camera doesn’t do anything with that data. RAW files can’t be posted to Instagram straight out of your memory card. They need to be processed in editing software like Adobe Lightroom, Capture One, or even the free Darktable before you can share them. That’s extra work, but it’s also where the magic happens.

So what does JPEG do differently?

A JPEG is a finished product. The moment you press the shutter, your camera applies sharpening, contrast, colour, and noise reduction — automatically — and then compresses the image down into a smaller file. It’s ready to share immediately.

The downside is that your camera makes those decisions for you. And in doing so, it throws away a lot of data to achieve that smaller file size. Once that information is gone, it’s gone for good.

Why does this matter when editing?

This is where the RAW vs JPEG debate gets really practical. Let’s say you take a beautiful landscape photo, but you slightly underexposed it — the image looks a bit dark. Here’s what happens in each format:

With RAW, you open the file in Lightroom, drag the Exposure slider up a couple of stops, and the detail that was hiding in the shadows comes right back. The image still looks natural.

With JPEG, you try the same thing. The image brightens, but the shadows turn muddy and noisy. You might also start to see banding — those ugly stripes of colour where smooth gradients used to be. That’s because the data you needed to recover the image simply isn’t there anymore.

RAW files typically give you around 4 stops of exposure recovery in either direction. JPEGs? About one stop, if you’re lucky. That headroom is the difference between a recoverable mistake and a deleted photo.

The colour and white balance advantage

Here’s another thing beginners often don’t realise: white balance is completely non-destructive in RAW. Shot your indoor portraits under warm tungsten light and forgot to adjust white balance? No problem — in Lightroom, you can fix it perfectly after the fact with zero quality loss.

In JPEG, changing white balance in post is genuinely editing the image data. You can nudge it slightly, but a major correction will shift colours in ways that look artificial and degrade quality.

“But my JPEGs look great straight from the camera!”

They might! Camera manufacturers have put enormous effort into their in-camera JPEG processing, and modern cameras produce lovely JPEGs. If you’re shooting fast-moving events, sports, or documentary work where you need to hand off photos quickly, JPEG is completely legitimate and used by professionals every day.

The question is: are you getting the most out of your camera, and do you have the editing control you need?

If you’re learning photography and want to understand how exposure, colour, and light work together, shooting RAW forces you to engage with those decisions in post. That process is incredibly educational. You start to see what the camera captured versus what you created — and that gap is where you grow as a photographer.

The storage and speed trade-off

RAW files are big. Depending on your camera, a single RAW file can be 30–80 MB, versus 5–20 MB for a JPEG. If you’re shooting hundreds of frames, that adds up fast. You’ll need bigger memory cards, more hard drive space, and longer backup times.

RAW files also slow down your camera’s burst shooting because there’s more data to write to the card. If you shoot action or wildlife where you’re hammering that shutter button, this can matter.

Many cameras offer a great middle-ground solution: RAW + JPEG. You get both files simultaneously — the JPEG for quick sharing and preview, the RAW if you want to edit properly later. Storage hungry, but flexible.

Which should you choose?

Here’s a simple way to think about it:

Choose RAW if you care about getting the best quality from every shot, you enjoy or plan to learn editing, you shoot in challenging lighting conditions, or you’re working on portraits, landscapes, or any photography where the final edit matters.

Choose JPEG if you need photos ready to use immediately, you’re shooting high-speed action and need fast burst rates, or you genuinely don’t want to edit and your camera’s JPEG output already makes you happy.

Choose RAW + JPEG if you want the best of both worlds and don’t mind using the extra storage.

Getting started with RAW

If this has convinced you to give RAW a try, here’s how to start: change your camera’s image quality setting to RAW (or RAW + JPEG), and download Adobe Lightroom (there’s a free mobile version) or the free desktop app Darktable.

Take a photo in tricky lighting — something with bright windows and shadowy corners is perfect — and spend 10 minutes just moving sliders around. Watch how much detail you can pull back from areas that looked completely lost. That moment of “oh, wow” is what turns most people into permanent RAW shooters.

Got questions about RAW editing or what software to use? Drop them in the comments below — we’d love to help.

The post RAW vs JPEG: What’s the Difference and Which Should You Be Shooting? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

This article was updated in January 2024 with contributions from Kelly Wolfe, Dave Spates, and Jaymes Dempsey.

Photographing dogs in action is an absolute thrill. One moment they’re a ball of energy, and the next, they’re soaring through the air to catch a Frisbee. Those freeze-frame shots elicit smiles from everyone who sees them.

But it’s not just about clicking the shutter. A lot goes on behind the scenes. Dialing in the right camera settings, keeping the dog focused, and maintaining their enthusiasm are all part of the equation. In this article, I’ll share some golden nuggets that have helped me capture those split-second wonders on camera.

So whether you’re photographing your own furry friend or working on a pet photography gig, you’ll find some actionable advice here. Let’s jump right in and elevate your dog action photography skills!

1. Use the right gear

Before I delve into practical tips for dog action shots, I want to briefly explore the importance of gear, which can make or break your images.

If you want to take better action photos of dogs, I recommend a camera body with a fast burst rate. From my experience, five frames per second is the minimum. If your camera has a faster frame rate than that, you are going to increase your keeper rate as long as your approach and technique are on point, which we will get to shortly.

Additionally, fast autofocusing is a must-have. Fortunately, many modern mirrorless cameras do an excellent job of tracking subjects as they move – and some even include animal eye AF modes so you can focus consistently on the dog’s eye as they bound around the space!

I also recommend long and fast lenses. I’ve tried to photograph action shots with the 50mm f/1.8, and the Tokina 100mm f/2.8, with very little success. While both of these lenses are incredibly sharp, they are soft wide open and do not focus well on moving subjects.

Longer lenses with fixed apertures generally focus on moving subjects much faster than shorter lenses. They also keep you and your camera gear safer. Think about it. If you have a 45 point Border Collie running full speed right at you, you need to get the photograph and get out of the way quickly.

A longer lens will give you the time you need to move once the dog starts to fill the frame. I personally use the Nikon 300mm f/4 and sometimes I’ll even throw a teleconverter on it for extended reach and cleaner bokeh.

A 70-200mm f/2.8 lens can also be very effective for dog action shots. The focal length is versatile enough for close-ups and wide shots, while the large aperture allows for shooting in lower light conditions!

2. Make sure the dog is safe

First and foremost, safety should be your priority. Dogs are not just subjects to be photographed; they are living, breathing beings that deserve respect and care.

Always choose a location where dogs are allowed. You don’t want to get into trouble with authorities or risk the dog getting hurt in an unfamiliar environment.

Opt for areas that are far from any hazards. A busy road, a steep drop, or any place where a dog can get hurt should be avoided. Keep a close eye on the dog, especially if they’re off-leash.

Ensure the area is secure enough so that the dog won’t dash off to chase a squirrel or another dog. This might mean choosing a fenced-in park or similar space.

Know the dog’s limits. Some dogs might have health issues that prevent them from running or jumping. Others might be too young or too old for strenuous activity. Listen to the dog’s owner and observe the dog’s behavior. Remember, capturing their personality is more important than getting an action shot at the expense of their well-being.

If the dog seems uncomfortable, slow down. It’s perfectly fine to capture them at their own pace. No photograph is worth risking the safety or well-being of your subject.

In essence, always prioritize the dog’s safety. This will not only make for a more relaxed and enjoyable session but will also ensure that you get natural, happy shots that reflect the dog’s true spirit.

3. Get a real expression from the dog

Capturing genuine emotion in a dog’s eyes can transform a good photo into a great one. The key to this lies not just in your camera skills, but also in how you interact with the dog.

Use a positive, encouraging voice when calling the dog over. Our four-legged friends are very attuned to human emotions, so a happy tone can go a long way. Make sure you and the dog’s owner are both creating an atmosphere of positivity.

Prepare some rewards to place by your camera. Dogs love treats and toys, so having some handy can help you get those tail-wagging, tongue-out smiles. Discuss with the dog’s owner to find out what their pet finds irresistible – be it squeaky toys, tennis balls, or treats.

Let the dog approach the camera naturally, enticed by rewards and your encouraging voice. The owner will know what will make their pet tick, so take their advice into account.

As you interact, watch for those perfect moments. Sometimes the ideal expression will come naturally as the dog reacts to your voice or the promise of a treat. Be ready to capture it.

4. Learn about the dog in advance

Prior knowledge about your four-legged subject can make or break your photography session. You need to know the basics, such as the dog’s training level, to strategize your shots effectively.

Start with a conversation with the dog’s owner. Find out about the dog’s health, especially if they have any mobility issues or dietary restrictions. This information will help you decide how active the photography session can be and what treats you can use.

Ask about their personality traits. Is the dog energetic and outgoing, or more shy and reserved? Knowing this will allow you to set up your shots in a way that brings out their true character.

Query about their training level. Does the dog know basic commands like sit, stay, and come? This can have a huge impact on how you orchestrate the shoot. Well-trained dogs may allow for more complex setups, while a younger or less-trained dog may require a simpler approach.

Safety is another concern that goes back to knowing the dog. If you’re aware of their temperament and any potential health concerns, you’ll be better equipped to ensure a safe and enjoyable session for everyone involved.

5. For running shots, have the owner call the dog

Getting a dog to run is only half the battle. The real trick is guiding them in the direction you want. For well-trained dogs with a solid “sit and stay,” I typically position the owner about 20 meters behind me. They call the dog, who then races directly towards the camera.

For younger or less trained pups, it’s essential to pick a secure location with minimal distractions. Think a dog-friendly park or even the dog’s backyard. You can also enlist the help of an extra person to hold the dog in place if they haven’t mastered the “sit and stay” command.

Some photographers opt for the dog to be on a leash. This can work, especially if the owner jogs along with them. You can always edit the leash out later if it interferes with the shot.

Keep your position in mind. If you want the dog to run directly toward you, be sure you’re in a spot that allows for this. An alternate option is to place yourself so that the dog will cross your path, giving you ample opportunity to capture a series of action shots.

6. Let the dogs be themselves

While it’s natural to have a list of shots you want to capture, remember that dogs have personalities too. And sometimes, they just want to do their own thing.

Let them! Some of my best shots have come from moments when the dogs were simply enjoying themselves. They could be chasing after a ball, bounding through tall grass, or playing a game of tug-of-war.

When you let dogs be themselves, their personalities shine through. And that makes for truly unforgettable photographs. You’ll find that the spontaneity adds a layer of authenticity and emotion that is often missing in overly staged shots.

So if you find that the dog isn’t interested in running directly towards you, but would rather sniff around and explore, go with it. Capture those candid moments. They’ll likely end up being some of your favorites from the shoot!

7. Get down low

Photographing from up high might work for humans, but dogs? Not so much. The simple act of lowering your camera can transform your dog action photos.

When you’re at the dog’s level, the images have a unique intimacy. You’re entering their world, capturing life from their viewpoint. This makes for some really compelling photos.

Another perk is the background. Being low increases the separation between the dog and the background. This helps in creating that beautiful, blurry backdrop, also known as bokeh, which makes the dog pop in the image.

So don’t hesitate to get a bit dirty. Crouch down, kneel, or even go flat on your stomach. Experimenting with these angles can add a dynamic touch to your images.

Remember, varying your height and angle can yield a variety of shots, all in one session. So pack some knee pads along with your camera gear and get down to the dog’s eye level.

8. Choose the right settings for dogs in action

Camera settings can make or break action shots. For starters, I like to use Manual mode. This gives me complete control over the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.

Fast shutter speeds are essential. Dogs are quick creatures, so to freeze their motion, I generally start with a shutter speed of 1/1000s. Don’t be afraid to ramp it up even more if the dog is particularly fast.

Aperture plays a role too. A wide aperture can help create a shallow depth of field, blurring the background and making the dog stand out.

Then there’s ISO. While you’ll want to keep it as low as possible to avoid grain, don’t be too concerned if you have to increase it to maintain a fast shutter speed. A slightly grainy shot is far better than a blurry one.

If Manual mode intimidates you, Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority are solid alternatives. They allow you to control one aspect, while the camera adjusts the other. Just make sure you’re still keeping an eye on those crucial settings like shutter speed.

9. Nail that focus!

Ah, focus: the nemesis of many action photographers. With dogs bounding around, keeping them sharp in your frame can be challenging.

For fast-paced action, using a single focus point and continuous focusing mode (AF-C) has always worked for me. With back-button focusing, the camera continues to refocus as long as you hold down the button.

Some cameras offer tracking options. These can lock onto the subject and adjust the focus as they move. Give it a try; it may work wonders depending on your camera’s capabilities.

Animal eye autofocus is another feature to explore if your camera has it. This function focuses directly on the animal’s eyes, ensuring a sharp, expressive face.

Don’t underestimate the power of practice. Take the time to understand how your camera’s focusing system responds to fast-moving subjects. Get out there and shoot, analyze your results, adjust, and shoot some more.

Mastering focus in action photography isn’t something you’ll do overnight. But with consistent effort and the right techniques, you’ll see marked improvements in your work.

10. Practice your timing

Timing is everything in action photography, especially with subjects as quick and unpredictable as dogs. So how can you get that perfect mid-air leap or playful sprint?

Start by observing the dog’s movements. Dogs, like many animals, have a natural rhythm when they move. Take the time to notice this pattern before you start clicking away.

Adopt a technique often used by equestrians: counting strides. When a horse rider is learning to jump, they count the horse’s strides to anticipate the perfect moment for a jump. Apply this method to dog action photography.

Each time the dog’s front legs leave the ground, count it out. One, two, three, and so on. This rhythm helps you anticipate when the dog will be in the ideal position for a fantastic shot.

This counting method might be easier with larger breeds that have a longer stride, but don’t worry if you’re photographing a small dog. Practice will help you adapt this technique to any dog size or speed.

Ultimately, your timing will improve with experience. The more you practice, the better you’ll get at capturing that decisive moment. And remember, digital film is free – so don’t hesitate to take many shots and refine your timing as you go.

How to photograph dogs in action: final words

And there you have it: the nuts and bolts of capturing dogs in exhilarating action!

The safety of your furry subject is paramount, so always choose a secure location and be aware of the dog’s comfort level. Each dog is unique, and getting to know them can inform your approach and result in more authentic photos.

Your gear and settings are crucial, but remember, they are just tools. It’s your understanding of the dog, your timing, and your technique that will set your images apart. Your role is that of both a photographer and an animal lover. Never lose sight of the latter.

Be prepared to adapt. Dogs, like any other models, have their own personalities and quirks. Sometimes the unplanned shots are the ones that capture the animal in the most beautiful way.

Thank you for joining me in this exciting realm of photography. Grab your camera, find a willing pup, and create some memorable, tail-wagging art!

Now over to you:

Do you have any tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 10 Tips for Breathtaking Dog Action Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kelly Wolfe.

The Meitar Award for Excellence in Photography, a distinguished collaboration
between PHOTO IS:RAEL and the Zvi and Ofra Meitar Family, marks its tenth
anniversary this year. This prestigious prize recognizes a cohesive body of work that
exemplifies superior photographic practice and profound artistic vision.

The 2026 edition is a significant milestone for us. Since its inception in 2016, the Meitar
Award has evolved into a vibrant global beacon of excellence, annually attracting
thousands of creators who challenge and expand the boundaries of the medium. Over
the past decade, it has cultivated a vital space for multicultural dialogue, serving as a
definitive home for the most compelling and urgent voices in contemporary
photography.

At the heart of the award is our esteemed international jury—a panel of world-class
photographers, curators, and critics at the forefront of the global field. The jury will
select 20 finalists to be featured in a centerpiece group exhibition at the International
Photography Festival in Tel Aviv in November 2026.

Evaluations will be based on the originality, conceptual depth, and technical quality of
the submissions. Particular emphasis will be placed on portfolios that demonstrate the
maturity and potential to evolve into a powerful solo exhibition.

The award winner, to be announced in November during the festival, will receive a
$14,000 grant to present a solo exhibition at the following year’s photography festival.

Registration Schedule:
Registration is open from February 23, 2026, to April 12, 2026.
? Early Registration: February 23, 2026 – March 19, 2026, fee: $35.
? Late Registration: March 20, 2026 – April 12, 2026, fee: $45.

Photographs must be submitted via the contest website: https://meitar.photoisrael.org
For further information, please contact: info@photoisrael.org

The post Meitar Award for Excellence in Photography 2026 Celebrating a Decade appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Ever looked at a simple fruit bowl and wondered if it could be something more? Well, it can! Still life photography is all about transforming ordinary objects into visual art, and it comes with an array of powerful advantages:

1. It’s highly accessible (you can do it in your own home!)
2. It doesn’t require ultra-expensive gear
3. It’s not nearly as hard as it might seem

I’ve been taking still life images for years, and in this article, I offer everything you need to improve your shots. I cover all the key elements including lighting, composition, and editing – so that, no matter your level of experience, you’ll be ready to shoot some amazing still life photos of your own.

Let’s get started.

What is still life photography?

Still life photography is an art form that involves capturing inanimate objects. This can include anything from a bowl of fruit to a carefully arranged collection of antique tools.

The appeal of still life photography lies in its accessibility and its potential for immense creativity. With complete control over all elements, from lighting to composition, you can turn ordinary objects into something extraordinary.

Seeing everyday objects through an artistic eye is the essence of still life photography. It’s about finding beauty in the mundane and ordinary. Whether you’re a professional photographer or just starting, still life photography invites you to see the world anew, and it’s a wonderful way to explore your creativity!

Essential still life photography gear

You don’t need to spend a fortune to get started with still life photography. An entry-level mirrorless camera or DSLR will work just fine. These camera types provide more control and flexibility compared to simple point-and-shoot models. Paired with a close-focusing lens, they allow you to capture sharp images of your subjects that you can edit, print, and hang on your wall.

A tripod is another important item, and while not every still life photographer works exclusively with a tripod, it’s a great piece of equipment to obtain. Even a slight camera movement can change the focus and composition, so a tripod will help streamline your workflow. More importantly, it’ll keep your camera steady, which is crucial for achieving clear, sharp images in low light conditions.

Other useful accessories include reflectors to reduce shadows and diffusers to handle too-harsh lighting.

That said, you don’t need to go gear-crazy; the key is to understand that quality images don’t necessarily come from expensive gear. With the right basic tools, beautiful still life images are entirely within your reach.

Key still life photography settings

Manual mode is where you want to begin in still life photography. Working in this mode gives you ultimate control over your image, allowing you to fine-tune the aperture, ISO, and shutter speed. With control over these settings, your creativity can truly shine.

A narrow aperture such as f/8 is a standard choice for still life photography. It keeps the subject in focus, giving you the crisp details that’ll make your still life images stand out. As for the ISO: Keep it low to maintain the best image quality. As long as you’re using a tripod, shutter speed is less critical; you can slow it down without causing blur.

Understanding these settings is essential to achieving professional-looking photos. While dialing in apertures, ISOs, and shutter speeds may seem technical at first, you’ll find that it quickly becomes second nature!

Basic lighting for still life photography

Light is an essential component of still life photography, and many still lifes feature beautiful lighting arrangements (which often create moody, painterly effects).

But it’s important to realize that you don’t need fancy lighting to create a stunning still life. When you’re starting out, I recommend using whatever light you have available, such as:

• Indirect light from a window
• A lamp
• A flashlight
• A candle

Don’t just create your setup, take one shot, and call it a day. Instead, try out different lighting effects! Use a curtain to block out some window light, then remove the curtain to let the light stream in. Shine a flashlight at your main subject, then try a second shot where the flashlight is positioned off to the side and shrouds your subjects in shadow. Make sense?

Note that, if you’re using lamps, flashlights, or candles, you will definitely need a tripod; indoor lighting won’t get you a fast-enough shutter speed for handheld shots. (This can be a relatively cheap model; as long as it’s positioned on a sturdy surface, it should be able to keep your camera steady.) When you’re ready to shoot, just mount your camera to the tripod, activate the two-second self-timer, and start taking images.

Still life photography composition

Learning to compose still life photos is often a struggle for beginners. This is understandable, as still life composition brings up a ton of questions, such as: Where should I place all my items? Should they overlap? Should they be close to the background? What camera angle should I use?

Fortunately, still life composition isn’t as hard as it might seem. I have two main recommendations, and they will take you far:

First, if you’ve not encountered them before, read about the rule of thirds and the rule of odds. These will offer a fantastic compositional starting point for beautiful still life shots, plus they’re really easy to use.

Second, just keep moving your items around.

This latter recommendation might seem a bit silly, but I promise: If you rearrange your objects enough, you’ll eventually hit on an arrangement that looks great. Don’t just settle for the first composition that you try – instead, test an arrangement, then evaluate it critically. Determine what you like and dislike about it, then make adjustments.

As you create different compositions, here are a few items to keep an eye on:

• Overly empty gaps (you generally want to keep the entire arrangement balanced!)
• Busy areas (you don’t want to confuse the viewer with too much activity)
• Movement between objects (aim to lead the eye from one object to the next)

Remember: A tiny tweak can make a huge difference. So if an arrangement doesn’t seem perfect, make a few changes. Chances are that you’ll soon hit upon a better setup!

Tips and tricks to improve your still life photos

Now that you’re familiar with the basics, let’s dive into some of the higher-level aspects of still life photography, including subject selection, different lighting directions, and more!

1. Look at the work of great still life photographers

It’s a valuable practice to study the work of great still life photographers online. By observing their photos, you can learn about the different ways to arrange elements, and you can even find inspiration for new subjects.

But don’t limit yourself to photography alone; look at the world of painting as well. Masters like Cezanne offer a treasure trove of lessons on composition, balance, and the use of color. The way these painters arranged objects, used light, and chose colors can translate into unique insights for your photography. A painter’s eye for composition can open new doors for your creativity.

Learning from others can be an exciting and enlightening process. While it’s important to develop your unique style, the techniques and ideas you glean from observing the masters can enhance your skills.

2. Experiment with sidelighting

Sidelighting is a powerful tool in still life photography. By ensuring that your light source is hitting the subject from the side rather than the front or back, you add shadows that improve a sense of three-dimensionality. The play of light and shadow brings depth and drama to an image, allowing ordinary objects to appear extraordinary.

A 45-degree angle is often a fantastic starting point for sidelighting. It offers a balanced blend of light and shadow, producing a visually appealing effect. Don’t be afraid to play with different angles and light sources; experimentation is key to finding what works best for your particular setup.

Realize that the angle of light can drastically change the mood and appearance of your photograph. By embracing the experimentation and understanding how sidelighting works, you add an essential tool to your still life photography toolkit. It’s a step towards creating more engaging, eye-catching images.

Bottom line: Whether you’re using natural light from a window or an artificial source, sidelighting can become your go-to option for stunning still life shots.

3. Pick items that interest you

Still life photography beginners often struggle to pick a subject and get started. But in truth, there are no “best” still life subjects, so there’s no need to stress! Ideal subjects are simply items that interest you, and they can come from anywhere, including:

• Around your house
• Flea markets and thrift stores
• Estate sales
• The grocery store
• The florist

Of course, the words “still life” generally conjure up visions of vases of flowers, pears on candlelit tables, old paper, and violins. And you can certainly capture beautiful still life shots by obtaining and arranging these “classical” items.

But you don’t need to spend time pursuing such images if they don’t interest you. Instead, ask yourself: What is meaningful to me? What objects do I love? Is there a story I would like to tell with my still life?

Alternatively, you might look for items that simply catch your eye. This next shot contains a piece of dried seaweed on some calico. Was the seaweed meaningful to me? Not really. Did it tell a story? Nope. It simply looked beautiful, so I wanted to capture it!

Finally, you can capture “found” still life arrangements – that is, still life arrangements that already exist (in houses, backyards, or on the street). Here’s a found still life, taken of a friend’s bedside table:

When picking still life subjects, here’s my final piece of advice:

If you’re stuck, just find some items that are personal and important to you, such as:

• Family heirlooms
• Pictures containing relatives
• Books that you love

Then, after a bit of arranging, you’ll capture a still life that’s loaded with meaning!

4. Work with a theme

Still struggling to pick the right still life photography subjects? Then I highly recommend working around a single theme.

Themes are an essential aspect of still life photography that can add depth and coherence to your images. They help you move beyond randomly selected objects and push you to think about the mood and meaning you want to convey. Whether it’s a color, season, or concept, a unifying theme can drive creativity.

For example, if you choose a theme around the color blue, you may gather items like blue glassware, a blue scarf, or blueberries. The consistent color palette not only creates visual harmony but also allows you to explore various textures and shapes within a specific color family.

Themes also help in storytelling. A setup focused on a seasonal theme, like autumn, can evoke feelings of warmth, change, or nostalgia. From leaves to pumpkins, selecting objects that resonate with the chosen theme helps in creating visually compelling stories that speak to the viewer.

5. Carefully select a background

The background can make – or break- your still life. If you want great results, you must choose your background with great care.

Specifically, don’t choose a background that features distracting elements. Avoid eye-catching colors that draw the eye, and if you use fabric, make sure you iron it first (few things are more distracting than a wrinkled backdrop!).

Instead, keep it simple. Fabric, cardboard, and existing walls often work great, provided that they’re relatively plain. The goal is to emphasize your still life subjects (so the viewer knows exactly where to look).

Here’s an image featuring a plain backdrop made from a couple of old potato sacks:

And here’s another shot, this time featuring a sheet of red fabric:

Also, experimentation is important! Different background textures and colors can complement your subjects in different ways, so it pays to test out a few options before deciding on a final arrangement. You may be surprised by the backdrops that make your still life really pop.

And while I generally do advocate using a narrow aperture and a deep depth of field when starting out, over time, you might want to try experimenting with focus and depth of field. You can create a shallow depth of field effect – where you keep the front element sharp and the background blurry – for more artistic shots. It’s a trick that can also come in handy if you like the background but find it a little too conspicuous.

6. Try light painting for creative still life shots

Light painting is a thrilling technique that allows you to “paint” with light. It involves setting your camera to a long shutter speed, usually in the range of 10 to 30 seconds, and then moving a flashlight or candle around your subject during the exposure. The result can be mesmerizing.

One of the great things about light painting is that it enables you to have greater control over your lighting without investing in expensive strobes and softboxes. You can create unique effects and highlights exactly where you want them. All you need is a dark room and a source of light, such as a flashlight, candle, or even a glow stick.

Experiment with different light sources, movements, and exposure times. You’ll soon discover a whole new world of creative possibilities. Light painting can add depth, character, and flair to your photos, making it a valuable technique in your still life photography toolbox.

7. Consider using artificial lighting

Once you’ve mastered basic still life lighting using natural sources like windows or candles, you may wish to explore artificial lighting for more control. Studio strobes, speedlights, or continuous LEDs are common options, and each has its advantages.

For those just starting, speedlights can be an affordable choice. They are portable and easy to use but still deliver excellent results. Strobes, on the other hand, are more powerful and include modeling lights so you can see the lighting effect in advance.

Whatever your choice, softboxes are essential. A bare flash will result in harsh and unflattering light. Softboxes diffuse the light, making it softer and more pleasing to the eye. They come in various sizes and shapes, allowing you to fine-tune the lighting effect to match your vision.

Artificial lighting may seem intimidating at first, but with practice, you can use it to create stunning still life photographs. From generating specific effects to offering complete control over the intensity and direction of light, artificial lighting opens up a new realm of creativity. It’s an investment not just in equipment but in expanding your artistic capabilities.

8. Shoot from different angles

The angle you choose to shoot from can dramatically alter the look and feel of your still life photograph. While it’s common to start with a standard frontal composition, experimenting with different angles adds richness and variety to your portfolio.

Moving to the right or the left, shooting from above or below – these choices offer new perspectives on familiar subjects. Even slight adjustments in camera height can change how a setup is captured. Higher angles can amplify depth, making objects appear more spread out, while lower angles can give a greater sense of intimacy or grandiosity.

Experimentation is key here. There are no rigid rules, so feel free to explore various angles until you find what resonates with your subject and theme. Try photographing a bowl of fruit from directly above to emphasize shape and pattern, or shoot a vase of flowers from below to give it a towering, majestic appearance. The creativity of angles is in your hands.

9. Make sure you spend time editing your still life photography

Post-processing can make a huge difference to your still life photos, so I highly recommend you spend time editing your images in Lightroom, Photoshop, Capture One, or some other program.

Start out with basic adjustments, such as white balance, exposure, contrast, and saturation. Then, as you become more experienced, play around with more advanced options.

Consider doing HDR photography, where you take several images at different exposure levels then blend them together in Lightroom. Or use Photoshop to add a beautiful texture to your image for a painterly look:

How to create stunning still life photography: final words

As you’ve discovered, the world of still life photography offers a vast playground for creativity, exploration, and skill-building. By working with themes, you can craft images that are not only visually stunning but also filled with depth and story. Shooting from different angles adds another layer of expression and offers endless possibilities for capturing ordinary objects in extraordinary ways.

Remember to embrace the tools and techniques outlined, and practice to see how they transform your still life photography. The joy of creating mesmerizing still life photos isn’t reserved for professionals; it’s within your reach.

So experiment with lighting, composition, and editing. Have fun! Enjoy yourself! You’re bound to end up with some stunning photos.

Now over to you:

What type of still life photos do you plan to take? Which of these tips are your favorites? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Still Life Photography: The Ultimate Guide (+ 9 Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lea Hawkins.

This article was updated in January 2025 with contributions by seven expert photographers: Andrew S Gibson, Mat Coker, Kevin Landwer-Johan, Bobby Roy, Peter West Carey, Trisha Bartle, and Jaymes Dempsey.

Candid photography is a great way to capture spontaneous, honest images, the type of shots that tell real stories about their subjects. But taking candid photos can be difficult – even stressful – especially if you’ve never done it before.

Fortunately, there are plenty of tips and techniques that pro-level candid photographers use to get consistently great results, and in this article, I aim to share them all, including:

• How to photograph without drawing attention to yourself
• A simple technique to keep your subjects acting natural (even once they’ve noticed you)
• The right candid photography settings and gear for sharp, well-exposed images
• Plenty of resources for amazing candid portraits and candid wedding shots

I also cover the basics, including what candid photography is and whether it’s legal. So if you’re ready to add that authentic feel to photos you take of loved ones, portrait subjects, street scenes, wedding shots, and more, let’s dive right in!

What is candid photography?

Candid photography is any photo that captures an authentic, unposed moment. It’s about preserving genuine expressions, emotions, and interactions without any forced poses or awareness of the camera. Instead of arranging the scene or instructing subjects to pose, candid photography aims to document life as it unfolds organically.

In this style of photography, images are often taken while subjects are often engrossed in their activities or simply being themselves. The photographer’s role is to observe and seize those fleeting, authentic moments that reveal the true essence of the subject.

That said, some candid photos are taken with the subject’s awareness. During a wedding, for instance, guests often know that the camera is pointed in their direction, but they still act naturally, resulting in beautiful candid shots. The key here is the authenticity of the photo; whether or not the subject knows they’re being photographed, if the image is authentic, then it’s a candid shot.

When is candid photography useful?

Candid photography is incredibly useful in various situations and genres, allowing you to capture spontaneous and natural moments.

After all, you won’t always be in a position to engage with your subject. And sometimes doing so will disrupt a natural flow of events. So when you find yourself in situations where you think you or your camera will alter the scene, it’s good to remain candid.

Here are some specific genres where candid photography shines:

• Portrait photography: Candid portraits offer a wonderful authenticity compared to posed shots. They effectively capture the true essence of your subject. During a portrait session, you can encourage your subjects to act naturally or engage in activities, discreetly photographing them as they do. You can also seize candid opportunities between poses or while transitioning from one location to another.
• Wedding and event photography: Candid wedding and event photography is very popular – and for good reason! These occasions present a multitude of possibilities, from capturing the bride getting ready to the groom adjusting his tie, and guests enjoying themselves at the reception. Candid shots in these scenarios are often effortless and stress-free, as the subjects are typically accepting of the camera’s presence while being engrossed in the main event.
• Street photography: Almost all street photography relies on candid shots taken without the subject’s consent. The goal of a street photographer is to remain unnoticed, capturing individuals in their natural states. Street candids can encompass wide street landscapes, interactions between a few subjects, or a solitary person lost in thought, walking through the rain, or simply observing their surroundings.
• Travel photography: When exploring different destinations, candid shots can help depict the unique essence of a place. Travel candid photography often resembles street photography, highlighting the people, clothing, lighting, and architecture that make a location distinctive.

Plus, taking candid photos is a fun challenge. You don’t get to direct the scene, and you have to take whatever the moment offers.

And if you’re part of the activity or event, when doing candid photography, you really get to see what is going on. Many people complain that they miss out on a group or family experience because they’re always taking pictures. If you focus more on seeing candid moments than on clicking away, you may find that you’re more in tune with events than ever before. As the great candid photographer Dorothea Lange said, “The camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera.”

Is it legal to take candid photos?

While candid photography without consent is generally legal in many places, such as the United States, the rules can vary depending on your location. It’s crucial to check the laws of the specific place where you plan to do candid photography to avoid any legal trouble.

That said, candid photography with consent is widely accepted and legal almost everywhere. This means that if you’re in an area where shooting without consent is prohibited, you can still capture some fantastic candid shots by simply asking for permission first. Once your subject agrees, you can take photos as they naturally go about their activities.

The best candid photography settings

What are the best camera settings for capturing good candid moments?

If you don’t understand your camera very well, then begin with Auto mode. Being on Auto means that you don’t need to think about camera settings at all. You can just focus on seeing the future and being ready for moments.

The problem, however, is that Auto mode is going to let you down quite often by capturing photos that are overexposed (too bright), underexposed (too dark), or blurry.

So you should begin to learn about ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. Once you understand these three things, you’ll understand many of the technical problems in your photos.

When you’re ready to move away from Auto mode, I highly recommend using Aperture Priority along with exposure compensation. Choose the aperture for its creative effect (f/1.8 for a shallow depth of field – f/16 for a greater depth of field). Let the camera figure out the rest. Then just focus on capturing the moment. Use exposure compensation when photos keep coming out too dark or too bright.

When you’re ready for a real challenge, you can try moving onto Manual mode. But even when you’re comfortable in Manual mode, you may find yourself scrambling with settings too much while trying to capture candid moments.

When you get good at anticipating moments, you can take a couple of test shots and look at the exposure. You can adjust your settings and still be ready to capture the moment that you know is coming.

And once you’re fully comfortable with how your camera works, you’ll forget about it in the moment!

How to take stunning candid photos: 23 general tips and tricks

Struggling to take the kind of candid shots you can be proud of? Here are 16 tips to instantly improve your photos:

1. Take your camera everywhere

The best way to take spontaneous photos? Always have a camera! That way, when the moment presents itself, you can quickly flick the On button, snag a few shots, and (if all goes well!) get a great result.

When I’m on a shoot, I’ll use my DSLR – but when I’m between shoots, I carry a point-and-shoot camera. If I see a good opportunity, I’ll whip it out and capture the scene. Of course, you don’t need to head out and buy an expensive second body – these days, smartphone cameras are very high quality and more than adequate for most candid photography.

Also, taking a camera everywhere helps people become more comfortable with you taking their photo. I find that my friends and family just expect me to have my camera out, so when I do fire it up, it’s not a signal to pose, it’s just a normal part of our interaction. And when I do take an image or two, the subjects are relaxed and the photos look natural.

2. Learn to see the future

Initially, it may feel as if you have no control over moments. Everything is chaotic and you have no idea when a moment is going to happen. But with practice, you’ll feel like you actually have a lot of control over spontaneous moments.

In order to capture good candid moments, you need to be able to see the future. Seeing the future means developing the ability to anticipate what is about to happen before it does.

Some things are easy to anticipate because they are so predictable. The sun rises and sets every day. If you want a nice photo of the sunrise you know exactly when it’s going to happen.

But how about anticipating less predictable moments? You don’t know exactly when a storm is going to arise or exactly what form it will take. If you want to photograph storms you’ll need to watch how they behave across the seasons. Where I live it’s very rare to have a thunderstorm, but you can feel it in the air when one is coming.

Still other things, such as people, seem completely unpredictable. Take toddlers for example. Who knows what they’re going to do at any moment?

But even something as seemingly random and chaotic as the behavior of toddlers is predictable. It just takes a bit longer to notice the pattern.

Patterns are the key to seeing moments before they happen.

Patterns are woven into our culture, our relationships and our personality.

Pay attention to the things you love to photograph, watch for patterns, and take note. Your ability to anticipate moments will increase over time if you observe and practice regularly.

Learn to anticipate moments by looking for patterns. Once you can do this, you’ll be able to see the future (which has benefits beyond photography). When you sense a moment approaching, the worst thing you can do is interrupt.

3. Use a long focal length

To capture candid photography without being noticed, try shooting with a long lens – a 135mm prime, an 18-200mm zoom, or a 70-200mm zoom, for instance. As you’ve probably already guessed, the farther you are from your subject, the less likely they are to know that you’re taking pictures, and the more natural and relaxed they’ll act.

Depending on the environment, though, a long lens can be pretty noticeable, and it may actually make people feel uncomfortable (like they’re being spied on). So choose your lens wisely, and if you are concerned about people’s reactions, consider picking your most compact zoom.

That way, you can get your candid shots from outside people’s personal space, you can go unnoticed, and you can maintain a feeling of intimacy in your compositions.

Alternatively:

4. Use a small camera with a small lens

Another approach is to use a small camera with a small lens and get in much closer to the action. The idea here is that the small camera gives you the perception that you are less intimidating than somebody using a large DSLR setup. You are much more likely to be able to take photos without being noticed or to be ignored if you are.

For instance, you might use a smaller mirrorless camera, a point-and-shoot camera, or even your smartphone. And as for lenses, a standard 50mm f/1.8 lens can do a great job and is very inconspicuous, though if you like a wide-angle look, you might grab a 35mm prime instead!

Personally, I really enjoy using a wider lens; the beauty is that you can get in close and photograph people without them even being aware that you are doing so. How? Simply place them at the edge of the frame, or on one of the thirds. The camera will point away from them and they may not even be aware that they are being photographed.

And even if they notice you, as long as you don’t look at them or make eye contact, they will think you are photographing a completely different subject! Of course, this works best when there is something interesting there that a tourist would naturally take a photo of.

5. Kill the flash

Perhaps the most obvious way you can signal to another person that you’re photographing them? Using a flash (especially the flash on the top of your camera!). After all, there’s nothing like a blinding flash of light to get people’s attention and kill a moment.

So if possible, keep your flash off for candid shots. When you’re shooting in low light, instead of using flash, try boosting your ISO, opening up your aperture, or dropping your shutter speed.

You’ll get a brighter exposure, and you’ll avoid making your subject uncomfortable.

6. Go when the light is beautiful

Beautiful light is key to creating evocative portraits that capture the spirit and atmosphere of a place. You’ll increase your chances of creating beautiful images exponentially by going out when the light is beautiful.

Of course, when doing candid photography, you can’t always choose the lighting, the cloud cover, or the time of day – but whenever possible, get out at the end of the day during the golden hour. There is also lots of potential during dusk, especially with the mix of artificial and natural light that you find in urban environments.

7. Wait for your subject to look away or drop their pose

Capturing the perfect candid shot often requires a bit of patience and keen observation. When photographing subjects who are highly aware of your presence, such as during portrait sessions or events, it can be challenging to capture their genuine, natural expressions.

Here’s what you can do: Instead of hurriedly turning away when your subject notices you, simply give them a warm smile or act as though you’re adjusting your camera settings. You may keep their attention for a moment, but after a few beats, something magical will happen:

As they become absorbed in the flow of the activity around them, they’ll forget about your presence and start acting naturally once again. That’s when you seize the opportunity, swiftly raise your camera to your eye, and capture that spontaneous, unposed shot.

8. Let them know you’re coming

This approach obviously won’t work for certain types of candid shots, but if you’re photographing a family gathering or intimate event, it can make a big difference.

You see, at a family gathering, someone is always taking photos. Most people like to ham it up for the camera or will avoid it like the plague. Letting your family know beforehand that you’ll be taking some photos and that they should act natural will greatly increase your odds of capturing the essence of the moment.

Not everyone will heed this request, but it’s good for people to know they should generally ignore your photo-taking; that way, people won’t act unnatural, and you won’t distract them from the event.

9. Take a lot of images

Back in the film days, it was important to conserve your photos. But if you use a digital camera (and I’m guessing you do!), there’s no real need to hold back; instead, be aggressive with your shooting. Don’t be afraid to take many images of the same subject.

In fact, I’ve found that, when shooting a burst of images of a person, I can sometimes get some surprising and spontaneous shots that I’d never have captured otherwise.

So switch your camera to its continuous shooting mode (i.e., burst mode), and fire off several shots at once. You’ll significantly increase your chances of capturing an unexpectedly perfect candid image.

10. Position yourself strategically

While candid photography is all about capturing the spontaneity of a moment and getting a perfect shot during that split second of time, if you think ahead and anticipate what is about to unfold, you can increase your chances of success.

So at a wedding, get to the church early (or even go to the rehearsal) and think about what will happen during the ceremony. Where should you stand to capture each moment? Which way will people be facing? What will they be doing? What will the light be like?

If you ask these questions in advance, you won’t waste time running around and repositioning yourself when the action happens. And you’ll be in the perfect spot to capture candid moments when they do occur.

11. Carefully work each scene

Candid photography, whether it’s photojournalism, lifestyle, street, wildlife, or travel photography, is about exploring. So don’t just take one photo and walk away. Begin taking photos before the moment actually happens and continue taking photos after it has passed. Be vigilant and ready for all the other moments that are about to unfold.

Ideally, you should walk away from an encounter having learned something. Perhaps you’ve seen a deeper pattern, better predicted a moment, or were rewarded with a great photograph for being there sooner and staying longer.

And remember: candid moments are about presence. You need to be there and be part of the moment. Yes, you’re standing back just far enough to capture a photo, but you’re just as much a part of the moments you capture as the people and places in your photos.

You’re not expecting to walk into a scene, snap one amazing candid shot and move on. You’ve got to be around long enough to understand what’s going on and begin to see the future.

It’s never the moment you think. You anticipate what’s going to happen and even when you capture a great moment, there are more to come. Some will surprise you completely as you begin to see new patterns you haven’t noticed before. Patterns run pretty deep, and you need to be able to see some simple ones before the deeper ones reveal themselves.

12. Shoot through store and restaurant windows

If you’re eager to capture candid street photos but concerned about drawing attention, here’s a cool little technique: Shoot through windows of stores and restaurants. It’s a fantastic way to photograph without disturbing the natural flow of the scene.

Take a stroll through a bustling area in a nearby city, keeping an eye out for interesting subjects. As you walk, glance through the windows of establishments you pass by. Often, people inside are absorbed in their activities and don’t notice what’s happening outside, which gives you the perfect opportunity to discreetly capture candid moments.

Make sure your camera settings are adjusted to handle the lower lighting conditions indoors. When you spot a captivating subject worth photographing, swiftly raise your camera, seize the candid shot, and continue on your way!

13. Photograph people doing things

Personally, I find that images of people doing things are much more interesting than images of people sitting around doing nothing. And they tend to feature more natural compositions, too.

For one, your subject will be focused on something that adds energy to a photo. It also adds context and an element of storytelling (plus, it’ll take the focus off of you!).

Timing is everything in candid photography, so wait until your subject is fully focused on their activity. This will inject a feeling of authenticity into your shots, where your subject is unaware and the viewer can look on unseen.

Note that your subject doesn’t need to be doing something especially involved or complex – they might be dancing, talking, playing a game, etc.

14. Get your subject to interact with the environment

If you’re doing a portrait photoshoot and you want to capture some candid images, it can be a challenge to make your subject feel relaxed and act natural, especially if you’ve spent the first half of the session taking posed shots. Fortunately, you can often speed the process along by encouraging your subject to look away from the camera and engage with their surroundings.

Imagine you’re in a picturesque park. Instead of simply instructing your subject to stand and smile, invite them to have some fun with the environment around them. Encourage them to scramble up a gentle slope, lean down to catch the scent of a blooming flower, or take a joyful run down a winding forest path.

If you’re shooting in an urban setting, suggest climbing a flight of steps, gazing up at stunning architectural wonders, or even waving to people passing by. The key is to inspire your subject to interact with their surroundings naturally.

By redirecting their focus from the camera to the environment, you’ll create a relaxed atmosphere where your subject can genuinely express themselves. As they engage with the surroundings, their gestures, expressions, and body language will become more authentic, resulting in captivating candid shots that truly reflect their personality.

Remember, the more your subject immerses themselves in the environment, the less self-conscious they’ll feel about being photographed!

15. Photograph people with people

When you photograph more than one person at a time, something very interesting happens:

You introduce a relationship into the photo. Even if the two (or more) people aren’t really interacting, you’ll still get increased depth and a sense of story.

Of course, the ideal candid compositions will have some interaction between your subjects, as that will add emotion to the shot – but even without interaction, you can still capture some stunning images.

16. Shoot from the hip

Here’s a quick tip for shooting unnoticed, courtesy of street photographers:

Choose a relatively wide lens, such as a 35mm. Set your camera’s shutter to its quietest setting. Position the camera down low, either at chest height or at your hip.

And then, when your subject moves into position, fire off a burst of shots without raising the camera to your eye.

This technique can be very hit or miss, and you may want to think about zone focusing (where you prefocus your lens and use a narrow aperture for a deep depth of field). But when it works, it really works – your subject remains completely unaware of your presence, they don’t tense up or act unnatural, and you get your candid images.

17. Pretend to be photographing behind your subject

If you’re out on the street and spot a fantastic subject you want to capture candidly, play the role of a tourist. Act as if you’re photographing the broader scene: the bustling street, the picturesque park, or the city skyline. Aim your camera in different directions as though you’re contemplating various expansive compositions.

By adopting this approach, your intended candid subject will often ignore you completely. And even if they do notice, they’ll likely assume you’re photographing something else and continue going about their business. It’s a clever way to blend in and capture those authentic moments without drawing unnecessary attention.

18. Change your perspective

Photos taken from standing height can look fine, and sure, there are plenty of great shots taken with the camera held in that eye-level area. But if you want to mix things up and capture some truly striking photos, why not change your perspective?

For instance, get down low and shoot upward, or find a nice vantage point and shoot downward. You can climb stairs, walk over bridges, crouch on the ground – whatever you need to do to get the photo (while staying unnoticed).

Also, if you do like the low-angle shot but feel uncomfortable crouching while doing candid photography (it is somewhat attention-grabbing, after all!), try shooting from the hip (as discussed above). While your shots may turn out crooked, it’s an interesting effect that some photographers like and can lend a sense of randomness and realness to a scene.

19. Watch your backgrounds

When capturing candid photos, it’s easy to become hyper-focused on the people in the scene. However, it’s important to remember that while candid shots are all about the subject, the background plays a crucial role, too. A distracting or cluttered background can draw the viewer’s attention away from the subject and diminish the impact of the photo.

So before pressing the shutter, take a moment to assess the background. Ensure the backdrop features non-distracting elements, such as a stand of trees or a clean brick wall. And if your subject happens to be positioned in front of a problematic backdrop, don’t fret. Simply adjust your angle and position to find a better perspective!

Alternatively, you can also use a wide aperture to create a shallow depth of field, which will naturally blur out any distracting elements in the background. However, keep in mind that this technique works best when you are relatively close to your subject.

20. Frame images with foreground elements

If you want to create more three-dimensional, layered compositions, I highly recommend composing with your subject as the focal point – but then including an element in the foreground, such as a tree, a person’s shoulder, the frame of a doorway, a window, etc.

Feel free to get creative. The point is to add a foreground element that can contribute context and depth to the shot, but you can have fun widening your aperture for out-of-focus foreground bokeh.

The ultimate goal is to create that sense of standing outside looking in. It’s a great complement to a candid moment, and when done well, can add a sense of mystery to the composition.

21. Take posed shots into candid territory

It may sound strange, but one of my favorite times to shoot candid images is when other photographers are taking formal ones.

Why? Well, during posed images, everyone is focused on the directing photographer, not you. So if, for instance, a wedding photographer is shooting a series of posed images, you can capture some wonderful candid moments simply by standing off to the side and taking a few images of your own.

I’d also recommend zooming in with a telephoto lens to capture more intimate scenes, and you might also try zooming right out to get shots of the subject plus the photographer.

By the way, if you’re the only photographer at an event or photoshoot, and you’re the one taking the posed shots, I’d recommend continuing to shoot after everyone thinks you’ve finished. It’s often these shots – captured moments after the posed images end – that look the best, because people relax, smile naturally, laugh, and look at each other.

22. Look for candid moments in nature

Even nature (flowers, landscapes, water) has candid moments. After all, we don’t normally pose our nature photos. We come upon nature doing something interesting and we make a photograph.

Nature’s moments are constantly changing. Think about a simple landscape. That landscape will look quite different depending on the time of day, from season to season, and in different weather.

And when photographing people, you can combine candid human moments with candid nature moments to create a more powerful shot.

For instance, combine these people moments:

• Action
• Emotion
• Mystery

With these nature moments:

• Season
• Weather
• Time of day

And see what you can create!

23. Enjoy the process

Don’t put too much pressure on yourself. An empty memory card can be as terrifying for a photographer as a blank piece of paper (or empty computer screen) is for a writer.

One way to get started is to take a photo of anything remotely interesting. It doesn’t really matter what it is, but I find that taking the first photo gets my creativity going and puts me in the right frame of mind to start seeing other images. Remember that you are there to enjoy the day, the sights, and the process of exploration and meeting new people, as well as photography.

Candid portrait photography advice

Specifically looking to capture stunning candid portraits? Below, I explain everything you need to know, including:

• My favorite ways to find candid portrait subjects
• How to capture candid portraiture without intimidating your subject
• How to develop your skills in a fun, easy way

Let’s dive right in!

1. Look for expressions that capture character

If you want to capture beautiful candid images, don’t simply set your camera to burst mode and fire away. Instead, watch your potential subject. And wait for a meaningful expression – one that really sums up their personality.

For instance, if you’re hoping to capture a nice candid shot of a fashion model, you might engage in some regular photography. Ask them to pose normally, to make their standard expressions, while you shoot.

But then, when you take short breaks from shooting, pay attention. Wait for those moments when your model is relaxed. And ask yourself: How do they behave when the camera isn’t pointing at them? How do they respond when you speak with them? What expressions do you notice? What unconscious gestures do they make?

When you see an expression that truly encapsulates their personality, capture it!

2. Make the most of random encounters

I remember my first evening taking photos in Bolivia. It was late afternoon, quickly fading to dusk, and the streets were lit by a soft red glow.

I raised my camera to take a photo of a mud-brick building. But out of the corner of my eye, I saw a small boy running down the street. He passed in front of the camera, stopped, turned toward me, and started waving his hands in the air. He obviously wanted to be in a photo, and a few seconds later, he was joined by an older boy, presumably his brother, who also posed. Then they continued on down the street and beckoned me along.

Curious, I followed, and they led me to a car parked around the corner, where their father was waiting for them. They explained what had happened, and then the father asked me to take a photo of all of them together. He was a little drunk, and he even invited me to their house for dinner. I politely declined, but I did take this image:

Is the portrait candid? I think so. The subjects knew I had a camera, but they were acting naturally, and I didn’t pose them. Regardless, the lesson is still a good one:

When you’re traveling and people are friendly, take advantage of the photo opportunities! Be open to random encounters. Recognize the possibilities that can arise.

At the very least, you will have some new stories to tell.

3. Use a small camera and lens

Technically, you can do candid portraiture with any gear, from a huge, hulking medium-format camera to a tiny smartphone device.

But my advice, based on a lot of experience, is to keep your setup as small as possible.

You see, the larger your camera and lens, the more you’ll stand out as a photographer. If you’re trying to document a wedding, your subjects will notice you before you get a chance to shoot. If you’re trying to do candid portraiture on the street, people will see you coming from a mile off and turn away.

Plus, large equipment is intimidating. A friend of mine is an experienced model, and she told me – after a shoot in which I used a small mirrorless camera and a small lens – that the smaller setup helped her feel more relaxed. She didn’t feel as much pressure to be a good model.

Even if you’re doing a mixture of posed and candid photography, a smaller camera will keep the subject more relaxed overall, which will mean more opportunities for wonderful candid frames!

That’s why I recommend using a setup like this one:

And if you find that slimming down your setup makes a big difference, go smaller! Purchase a small point-and-shoot camera, or even switch to your smartphone. (These days, smartphone cameras are capable of pretty impressive images, so don’t let technical concerns hold you back!)

4. Ask for permission – and explain why

If you’re just starting out with candid portrait photography, you may feel uncomfortable shooting people that you don’t know – such as street performers, diners, and even passersby.

My recommendation? Ask for permission, and when you do, clearly state a good reason.

First of all, giving people a reason makes them more likely to accept. You don’t seem like a random stalker if you explain why you want to photograph them, even if the reason is trivial.

Plus, if you have a reason in mind, asking for permission becomes far easier. You’ll feel justified in your approach, and so you’ll feel less awkward and shy.

For example, a few weeks ago I visited a blacksmith’s forge. The smiths there do demonstrations of older techniques for the visiting public, and I simply asked if I could take some photos while the smith was doing his demonstration. The smiths had zero issues with my request, and the result is a natural candid portrait of someone at work:

Another example: At Carnival in Cádiz, there were lots of people dressed in costume but only a few with face paint. When I saw somebody with interesting face paint, I explained that I really liked their makeup, and I asked if I could take a photo or two. In each case, the person agreed, I waited for a natural expression, then grabbed an image. Here’s one of my favorites:

5. Start a candid portraiture project

If you’re looking to really expand your candid portrait horizons, then instead of capturing random shots, I encourage you to start a project.

That way, you can tackle candid portraiture on a regular basis, and you can really dig in and elevate your skills.

The project doesn’t have to be especially complex, but it should have a clear theme or angle. For instance, you could photograph people at the park, you could photograph supermarket workers, or you could photograph cyclists.

Once you’ve identified your project topic, research your subject, figure out how to best take candid shots, and make a significant effort to shoot regularly. (Note that your project doesn’t need to only feature candid images. But if you’re looking to improve your candid portraiture, I do recommend you shoot candids whenever possible.)

Early last year, I thought it would be interesting to take some photos of people practicing parkour; this became my project idea, and I got in touch with some local traceurs through a Facebook group. Some of them were interested in a shoot, so we went out into the streets of Wellington, and they showed me parkour. I took photos and portraits as we went along. It was easy to create candid portraits because they were enjoying what they were doing and having fun!

6. Take photos of friends doing interesting things

If you’re struggling to find subjects for your candid portraits, try looking close to home.

You see, friends – and even family – are great candid photography subjects. For one, they know you, and so they’re more likely to be relaxed in your presence. Plus, you can have a fun portrait session that combines candid photography and socializing!

As I emphasized above, you’ll need to be observant, and you’ll need to snap photos when your subject isn’t paying attention to the camera – when they’ve let their guard down. It can be tough to talk with someone and take candid images, but if you’re focused, you can do it!

A piece of advice: When you tell your subject about your interest in candid portraits, set a clear theme. If your subject likes cycling, ask them to bring their bike, and prepare to take some candid portraits of a cyclist in action. And if your subject likes to play music, ask them to bring a guitar, and photograph them as they strum a few chords.

For example, a friend of mine made her own gypsy caravan. I thought it was a fantastic tiny space project, so once it was finished, I asked her if I could take some photos. She sat outside and played guitar, we talked about the project, and I made a few candid portraits:

Candid wedding photography: tips and advice

Weddings have changed drastically in the past few years. These days, couples want more from a wedding photographer than rigidly posed shots; they frequently prefer candid wedding photography because it captures the emotions of the couple and the guests enjoying themselves without needing to line everybody up in front of the camera.

Below, we share tips and advice for shooting weddings in an effective yet unobtrusive way. That way, the next time you get booked for a wedding, you’re ready to create an array of stunning candid images!

1. Always be ready

This is the biggest candid wedding photography tip that I can give you:

No matter what’s going on, always be ready to shoot.

In particular, make sure that you’re always keeping an eye out for interesting moments. You never know what will happen, and if you stop paying attention to the scene around you, there’s a chance that you’ll miss something phenomenal. It’s a good idea to frequently scan the room to check for moments in the making, and even when you have your camera to your eye, make sure you’re hyperaware of the action around you.

Of course, you can’t capture candid moments without equipment, so it’s essential that you always keep that camera ready. Make sure it’s in your hands and prepared to shoot at a moment’s notice. Set your camera according to the lighting conditions, and if necessary, use Aperture Priority mode so exposure decisions are made for you on the fly. You don’t want to be fiddling around with camera settings when the action starts!

Pro tip: Whenever you notice your battery or your memory card getting low, look for a lull in the action, then quickly swap it out. Don’t wait for your camera to die or the memory card to fill up completely; as I said above, you never know what’s going to happen, so it’s important that you’re always ready to photograph.

2. Know your equipment

I touched on this in the previous tip, but it’s so important that it deserves a section of its own. I’ve seen countless photographers miss shots while they are trying to change the camera settings – don’t be that person!

Instead, you must know your equipment like the back of your hand. Semi-automatic modes such as Aperture Priority are helpful and can relieve some of the pressure, but they’re not perfect and can cause problems from time to time, so it’s important you understand exactly how your camera works in case you need to make settings adjustments or take over completely.

Plus, even if you use Aperture Priority mode, you’ll need to select an aperture, an ISO, a metering mode, an autofocus mode, an autofocus area mode, and a white balance. In other words, you’ll need to really know what you are doing!

Here are just a few items to bear in mind:

• The shutter speed must be carefully managed to keep your shots sharp. Make sure that you’re always shooting at 1/100s or higher, and if your subject is moving, you’ll generally need to work at 1/250s, 1/500s, or even at 1/1000s.
• It’s usually a good idea to set a wider aperture to let in more light, though bear in mind that wider apertures will decrease the depth of field, so you’ll need to choose your point of focus carefully.
• When shooting indoors, you’ll generally need a higher ISO to allow for the faster shutter speeds I mentioned above. Don’t be afraid to push your camera’s ISO to 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, and beyond – though also recognize that higher ISOs tend to produce lots of noise, so you don’t want to boost the ISO more than necessary.
• If you’re shooting in RAW (which I highly recommend!), it often helps to set your camera’s white balance to Auto, then make tweaks in post-processing. You won’t sacrifice any flexibility by using such an approach – the RAW files can be effectively adjusted in a program like Lightroom – and it’ll save you from needing to adjust the WB setting as the lighting scenarios change.

By the way, you should also be able to change settings without consulting the manual or fiddling around in the menus. It can help to practice making settings adjustments while relaxing on the couch, watching a movie, talking on the phone, etc.

3. Use a telephoto zoom lens

Candid wedding photography is all about taking pictures of the bride, groom, guests, etc., without being noticed. You won’t capture beautiful candid moments if you’re hovering a few inches from the bride with a camera pointed in her face!

That’s why I highly recommend working with a telephoto zoom lens. I regularly shoot weddings with 70-200mm or even 100-400mm lenses if capturing candid moments is the priority. These longer lenses may seem unwieldy at first, but you’ll soon be impressed by how they can help you capture the action and emotions without actively distracting the people involved.

Additionally, a long zoom will help maintain a level of intimacy, which is essential in wedding photography. Try dialing in a wide aperture to really emphasize that shallow depth of field effect; it’s a great technique if you’re hoping to make the bride and groom look as if they’re in their own little world!

Of course, it’s also handy to keep a shorter lens around for wider candid scenes and other key shots. Many wedding photographers carry two cameras, each with a different lens, and I recommend you do the same. That way, you can capture plenty of powerful images – no matter your distance from the subject.

4. Don’t use flash

Plenty of wedding photographers like to use flash, especially for posed photos – but when it comes to candid wedding photoshoots, carrying a flash is a very bad idea.

Why? One surefire way to get noticed by your subjects is to fire that flash, whether it’s a dedicated flash gun or the pop-up flash on your camera. As soon as you’ve been noticed, your subjects will become self-conscious, and you’ll lose the beautiful candid effect.

And I’ll be honest: Light from a flash tends to be rather unflattering and boring. Yes, a flash can brighten things up, but if there’s a lack of light, I’d recommend boosting the exposure rather than adding flash. You might try widening the aperture, increasing the ISO, or slowing the shutter speed (if you have room). You can also shoot in areas of the room with more illumination, though don’t make this a habit; you don’t want to miss shots in the middle of the dance floor because you’re always hanging out by a window!

5. Make sure you plan ahead

As a candid wedding photographer, it is your job to predict what is going to happen before it does (or, at least, take a calculated guess!). If you can, I’d suggest visiting the location before the wedding and really getting a feel for the space and the lighting. While you’re there, see if you can identify potential backgrounds for photos; even if you don’t end up using them, it helps to have a few ideas in your back pocket, just in case.

If you’re unable to visit the location beforehand, then at least arrive at the venue well before the function is to start. Walk around, think about possible photo ideas, and identify any potential obstacles (such as unusually dark rooms or strong backlighting).

Then, when it’s time for the wedding to start, don’t get so caught up in the flow of the proceedings that you forget all about your careful planning and scouting. Be sure to remember your photo ideas and keep a cool head. A little bit of planning goes a long way in getting some great shots!

A guide to candid photography: final words

Hopefully, you now feel much more confident as a candid photographer, and you’re ready to start taking some beautiful shots of your own! Whether you’re hoping to snap candid portraits that reveal the true essence of your subject, capture some magical candid wedding photos, or explore new destinations with your camera, candid photography opens up a world of possibilities.

Remember that candid shooting is a powerful tool in your creative arsenal, allowing you to capture the raw, unfiltered moments that make life truly remarkable – so whenever you get the chance, give it a try!

Now over to you:

What type of candid photography do you plan to try? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Candid photography FAQ

The post Candid Photography: The Essential Guide (+34 Expert Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Have you ever felt like your photos were missing something essential? A shallow depth of field effect is one of my favorite ways to take your images from “zero” to “hero.”

You see, thanks to shallow DoF techniques, you can capture shots that are both artistic and professional. Of course, controlling the depth of field isn’t always a walk in the park, but it can be done, even if you’re a beginner.

In this article, I’ll share everything you need to know about shallow depth of field, including:

• What shallow depth of field actually is
• Why shallow depth of field is useful in photography
• Six easy ways to create that gorgeous shallow depth of field effect
• Tips and tricks to improve your shallow DoF images!

Sound good? Let’s dive right in, starting with a simple definition:

What is a shallow depth of field in photography?

A shallow depth of field refers to an effect where only a small portion of the image is in focus while the rest of the image turns to blur.

For instance, a portrait photo might include an in-focus person but have a blurred-out background:

A macro photo might highlight a sharp flower while letting the background turn into a beautiful wash of color:

And a food photo might feature a crisp dessert against a dark blur:

Note that the magic happens where your lens focuses; that’s the sharpest part of the photo, and that’s where the sliver of in-focus material will appear.

Professional photographers often employ this technique for stunning results. But it’s important to recognize that using a shallow depth of field isn’t the only way to take a great photo. There are alternatives that provide a different aesthetic, as we’ll explore in the next section:

Shallow vs deep depth of field

You’ve probably noticed that not every magazine-worthy photo features a dreamy background, and you’ve also probably captured some nice shots of your own where everything from the foreground to the background is sharp.

That’s what we call deep depth of field, and it’s a technique that landscape photographers frequently use. For instance, in this next shot, everything is in focus: the boats, the sand, and the reflections:

Deep depth of field has its merits. But there’s a reason many photographers often opt for shallow depth of field effects. Unlike deep depth of field, which emphasizes every element of the scene equally, shallow depth of field places the spotlight squarely on your subject for dramatic effect.

Why is a shallow depth of field effect important?

Plenty of photographers love shallow depth of field effects – for two big reasons:

1. A shallow depth of field separates the subject from the background, helping the subject stand out.
2. A shallow depth of field generally blurs the background, which looks really gorgeous (when done right, that is!).

Often, a shallow depth of field is a stylistic choice, one that certain photographers tend to prefer and other photographers like to avoid.

Here’s a list of genres that gravitate toward shallow DOF effects:

• Portrait photography
• Wildlife photography
• Street photography (sometimes)
• Fashion photography
• Product photography (sometimes)

Of course, this list isn’t exhaustive, and regardless, don’t feel hemmed in. If you prefer shallow depth of field but you shoot landscapes, that’s okay – do what you like!

How to get a shallow depth of field effect: 6 techniques

Now let’s take a look at how you can create shallow depth of field effects in your photos:

1. Increase the subject-background distance

It’s one of the easiest ways to achieve a shallow depth of field effect: Position your subject as far away from any background objects as possible.

If your subject is standing right in front of a wall, it’ll be in focus no matter what you do. But if they’re standing 100 meters in front of that same wall, it’s going to be a lot more blurry. Think of it as giving your background more room to blur.

Quick note: Technically, increasing the distance between the subject and the background doesn’t make the depth of field more shallow. The depth of field remains the same regardless (it depends on other factors that I discuss below).

But bringing your subject forward increases the appearance of a shallow depth of field and gives you a near-equivalent effect.

2. Use your camera’s Portrait mode

These days, most beginner cameras include a little wheel on top with lots of little icons on it – the Mode dial. And on certain beginner models, the Mode dial will feature Scene modes, such as Landscape, Night, Sports, etc.

Generally, one of these modes is Portrait. And if you’re uncomfortable using more advanced modes (such as Aperture Priority or Manual mode), Portrait mode is a good way to decrease the depth of field; it sets a large aperture (discussed in the next section!), which will make the depth of field smaller.

Now, Portrait mode doesn’t offer any control over your depth of field effect, so I only recommend you use it if you feel completely lost or have no intention of learning basic camera settings.

And if you do want to gain more control, check out the next method of creating shallow depth of field:

3. Widen your lens’s aperture

Every lens includes an aperture – essentially a hole – that widens or narrows depending on your camera’s aperture setting. And the wider the aperture, the shallower the depth of field.

Portrait mode will automatically widen your aperture. But if you want a greater level of control, I’d recommend using either Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode, which allow you to dial in your preferred aperture (then watch as the background is blurred).

If you’ve never set the aperture before, know that small numbers, such as f/1.8 and f/2.8, correspond to a wide aperture (and hence a shallow depth of field). Large numbers, such as f/16 and f/22, correspond to a narrow aperture (and a deep depth of field).

For ultra-shallow depth of field effects, stick to f/2.8 and wider if possible, though your aperture capabilities will depend on your lens (because all lenses have an aperture maximum).

In fact, if you like the idea of adjusting the aperture to achieve the perfect depth of field effect, I highly recommend you put your camera on Aperture Priority mode, find a subject, and test out a handful of different apertures. Then review each photo carefully, paying attention to how the aperture setting affects the depth of field.

4. Use a long lens (and get close to your subject)

The closer you get to your subject, both optically – by using a long lens – and physically – by moving toward your subject – the shallower the depth of field and the better the background blur.

That’s why the best shallow depth of field portraits tend to be taken on an 85mm lens or a 70-200mm lens, not a 50mm or 35mm lens. The longer focal length makes it easier to get close, which in turn decreases the depth of field. Make sense?

However, if you only own a 35mm lens, don’t worry; you can still create a shallow DOF. You simply need to get close to your subject. Yes, it might be a bit uncomfortable if you’re photographing people – you’ll be shooting from right in front of their face! – but the results will be worth it.

By the way, longer lenses have another advantage over shorter lenses:

They compress the background. The actual effect is difficult to explain, but it leads to a smoother background blur and the appearance of a shallow depth of field.

So if possible, shoot your images from up close – and use a long lens, too. (Don’t get crazy with your focal length, though, especially if you’re photographing people; if you go over 200mm or so, you’ll be forced to back up ridiculously far, which can become unmanageable, plus you’ll lose a level of photographer-subject intimacy.)

5. Get a wide-aperture lens

Previously, I explained that a wide aperture leads to outstanding shallow depth of field effects. I also mentioned that some lenses feature a maximum aperture.

So if you’re serious about achieving a shallow depth of field, a lens with a wide aperture (known as a fast lens) is your friend.

Unfortunately, fast lenses tend to be expensive, but they can also be worth the investment. Plus, there are a few fast primes – such as a 50mm f/1.8 – that are optically impressive, capable of beautiful background blur, and are also quite cheap.

(Fast lenses also let you shoot in low light, which is a major bonus.)

By the way, some lenses offer better background blur than others. So before purchasing, I recommend reading reviews of possible lenses (or at least viewing sample images). Good reviewers will discuss background blur (also known as bokeh), and you can determine whether the lens is right for you.

6. Use a full-frame camera

You might have heard debates among photographers about whether a full-frame sensor truly offers a shallower depth of field than an APS-C sensor. The fact is, it does make a difference, but maybe not in the way you’d think.

Imagine you have two camera setups: one with a full-frame sensor and another with an APS-C sensor. Both setups have identical lenses and settings. You compose two similar shots, you press both shutter buttons, and you look at the files – what do you see? I’ll tell you: The image taken with the full-frame sensor will exhibit a shallower depth of field. It’s subtle but noticeable.

This isn’t some magic trick of the sensor. Rather, it’s about cropping. An APS-C sensor has a crop factor that effectively zooms into the image. To match the composition of a full-frame shot, you’d need to step back. The further you are from your subject, the deeper the depth of field will be – as I explained above -so as a result, full-frame cameras do produce more impressive shallow DoF effects compared to crop-sensor cameras, all else being equal.

Bottom line: If you’re passionate about mastering the art of shallow depth of field, investing in a full-frame camera is a solid move.

Tips for beautiful shallow depth of field effects

Achieving shallow depth of field isn’t mystical or impossible, but it does take some know-how. Here are a few quick tips and tricks to get better results:

1. Consider setting the focus manually

Shallow depth of field effects give you very little room for focusing error – so unless you’re very, very careful, you’ll end up with a lot of near-misses.

For that reason, when you’re shooting still subjects like flowers or even portraits, I’d encourage you to think about switching to manual focus.

Automatic focus systems are good. However, they don’t always focus exactly where you want, and when the depth of field is ultra-limited, that can be disastrous. With manual focus, you gain complete control. You can place that small area of sharpness precisely where you want it – whether it’s a petal or an eye.

2. Don’t forget about composition and lighting

Once you start to get good at producing shallow depth of field shots, it’s tempting to think you’ve hit the jackpot in terms of photography skills. But there’s more to a great image than just bokeh. Depth of field is one tool in your toolbox, and it’s a good one, but it’s not the entire kit.

Let’s consider composition. A well-composed shot guides the viewer’s eye where you want it to go. Depth of field can help with this, but it’s not a cure-all, so it’s important that you compose your images carefully even when you’re working with cool DoF effects.

Lighting is another photography cornerstone. Without proper lighting, even a perfectly blurred background can look flat or uninteresting. Your subject needs to be nicely lit, and that doesn’t mean just bright. It means working with light that complements the subject and mood of your image!

The takeaway here is balance. Shallow depth of field can be the star of the show, but it’s not the only thing that matters. If you focus solely on achieving that dreamy blur, you risk ignoring other photographic elements. And that usually leads to photos that lack emotional and visual depth.

3. Shoot into the light for the best backgrounds

Late afternoon offers the perfect opportunity to combine backlighting with shallow depth of field for some truly eye-catching photos:

Note that the technique isn’t reserved for any particular subject. It works wonders on flowers, leaves, and even portraits.

Start by positioning yourself so the sun is behind your subject, and see if you can adjust your angle until the low sun is poking through elements in the background, like leaves and tree branches.

Once you’ve got your angle, it’s time to focus. With the sun backlighting your subject, your camera’s autofocus might struggle. Feel free to switch to MF to efficiently set the point of focus.

Finally, make sure to dial in a wide aperture and get reasonably close to your subject. If all goes well, the combination of backlight and shallow depth of field will create a magical effect. Your subject will stand out sharply against a background – one that’s not just blurred but also beautifully illuminated. The light will interact with the out-of-focus elements to generate extraordinary bokeh.

So why does this technique work best later in the day? It’s all about the angle of the light. When the sun is low, you get a warm, diffused glow rather than harsh midday beams, and the low sun will beam through areas behind – rather than above – your subject.

4. Try photographing cities at night

Taking your camera for a spin after dark offers a thrilling new playground for shallow depth of field. The city streets are full of glowing lamps and shimmering neon signs. These lights make for extraordinary background elements, and nighttime subjects can be highly interesting, too.

For instance, you might photograph pedestrians shrouded in the enigmatic glow of streetlights, or you might capture reflections in puddles on the sidewalk. Focus tightly on the subject, and you’ll find the neon signs and other street lights dissolve into magical orbs of light. This setting naturally lends itself to limited focus, enriching your composition and lending it an atmospheric, cinematic feel.

Of course, photographing at night does come with its challenges. Exposure can be tough, and because of the low light conditions, you may find that your lens wants to focus on the brightest elements, such as those glowing signs. But with some patience and/or switching over to manual focus, you’ll be able to control where your lens directs its attention!

Shallow depth of field: final words

So there you have it: From understanding the basics of shallow depth of field to tips on how to effectively incorporate the effect in your images, you’re now better equipped to venture out and try some shallow DoF photography yourself!

So head out with your camera. See if you can get some beautiful depth of field effects. Experiment with the methods I’ve suggested.

And have fun!

Now over to you:

Which of these methods is your favorite? Do you have any tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Shallow Depth of Field Photography: A Practical Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

This article was updated in January 2025 with contributions from Danielle Ness, Caz Nowaczyk, Jeffrey Kontur, and Jaymes Dempsey.

Want to capture some magical levitation images? Levitation photography might seem difficult, but it’s actually pretty easy. As long as you know the simple, step-by-step process, you can create beautiful levitation photos of your very own, the kind that shock viewers and look consistently incredible.

Now, I’ll be the first to admit it: When I started out with levitation photography, I struggled. But over time, I made tweaks and improvements to my approach and capturing good levitation shots got easier and easier. Today, I’m ready to share that approach with you – so you can skip past my mistakes and start making great shots right away.

Below, I share everything you need to know to conduct successful levitation photoshoots, including:

• All the gear you do (and don’t) need
• How to choose the right angle and composition for a stunning effect
• How to process your levitation shots for the best results
• Much more!

Ready to become a levitation master? Then let’s dive right in.

What is levitation photography?

Levitation photography refers to images depicting subjects that appear to be floating, or levitating, in the air.

Levitation images are designed to look strange, spooky, or just generally surreal. The goal is not to display reality, but to instead create mindbending compositions that perplex the viewer.

While you can technically create a levitation shot by asking your subject to jump (or by throwing your subject into the air) and firing the shutter at the right time, most levitation photos are created with some post-production trickery, which I explain in depth later on.

What subjects work best for levitation photography?

Unless you want to spend dozens of hours in Photoshop carefully removing, compositing, and cloning different subjects, I’d recommend selecting levitation subjects that are capable of standing or lying on a stool.

Most levitation photographers work with portrait subjects; after all, you can instruct people to stand in the right place, to balance atop different objects, and so on.

Note that you can create interesting arrangements with multiple portrait subjects. For instance, you might do a group levitation shot, where an entire family or wedding party appears to be floating above the ground. Or you might give one subject the “non-magic” role and have them stand on the grass while other subjects float around the scene.

That said, if you don’t have any portrait subjects or you simply want to create more original photos, you can certainly have fun levitating inanimate objects. You might levitate:

• Couches
• Chairs
• Broomsticks
• Food
• Computers
• Soap bottles
• Cameras

In particular, levitation can be a potent technique for professional food or product photography. By levitating items (or pieces) of food, you can create a very modern, fresh look. And by levitating products, you can create a sense of energy and vitality that complements images of shoes, portable technology, and more.

How to do levitation photography: the basics

Levitation photoshoots aren’t especially complex, but they do take some gear and know-how. In this section, I share my step-by-step process for creating high-quality levitation images.

Step 1: Gather your equipment

To produce a successful levitation image, you need:

• A camera and lens (with manual focusing capabilities)
• A tripod
• A willing model (or inanimate object)
• Something to position your subject on, such as a stool, a chair, or a ladder

Step 2: Head to your location

Many photographers do levitation photoshoots in remote locations. But while isolated meadows and dark forests will certainly contribute to the spooky atmosphere, you can also take great levitation shots in your backyard, in a local park, or even indoors.

Just make sure you choose your location carefully. You need an area that will be relatively free of passersby (you don’t want to spend time cloning people out of the background). And the more room you have to shoot, the better.

If you’re working with a model, I’d recommend arriving on location a few minutes in advance. That way, you can mount your camera on a tripod, consider different shooting angles, and select your exposure settings before your subject arrives.

Step 3: Photograph the scene with your subject on a perch

Levitation photography relies on two fundamental images:

1. A shot of your subject sitting, standing, or lying on a perch (e.g., a stool).
2. A shot of the scene without the subject and without the perch.

The order in which you take the two shots technically doesn’t matter, but it’s much easier to compose the shot with the subject first, then capture the background shot later on.

So set up your first shot. Make sure your camera is carefully positioned on the tripod. If you’re working with a portrait subject, ask them to perch on the stool and carefully direct them in a levitation-esque pose. If you’re working with an inanimate object, position it as you prefer.

Switch your camera to manual focus, then adjust the focus until your main subject is tack-sharp. Set the exposure using Manual mode.

Take your first image. Check the result on the back of your camera, and make sure that you’ve nailed the focus and exposure.

Step 4: Photograph the scene without your subject

Next, remove everything from the scene: your stools, your subjects, and any additional props.

Without changing the exposure or the focus, take a second image. This should feature only the background (but the point of focus should remain on the foreground!).

Step 5: Blend the images

At this point, you have the raw components of your levitation shot. Now it’s time to combine the two images to create a realistic final composition.

Open your two files in a basic editing program such as Lightroom, and make sure the colors and exposures match perfectly. If you notice any differences between the images, spend some time making adjustments to the exposure and/or white balance. (You can also apply general edits to both files, though make sure you keep all edits consistent across the two shots!)

Next, open the files as layers in Adobe Photoshop. Make sure the empty background image is on the bottom of the layer stack.

Click on the upper layer (with your subject) and create a mask. Initially, the mask will be white, so your image will remain unaltered. But select a Brush, make sure the color is black, and then paint over the subject’s supporting elements (i.e., the stool). Watch as the stool disappears, leaving behind the untouched background…

…and your subject starts to levitate!

Finally, merge the layers, and export the final image as a JPEG for sharing.

Levitation photography tips

Want to level up your levitation photos? In this section, I share a few quick tips to enhance your results.

1. Shoot on a cloudy day

Yes, it’s possible to create beautiful levitation photos in bright sunlight. But it’s a major pain.

You see, if you work with lots of sun, then your subject and your subject’s perch will create shadows. When you go to merge the two images in Photoshop, you’ll need to spend time correcting the subject’s shadow and removing the perch’s shadow, which isn’t fun and can take an annoying amount of time.

So unless you’re a Photoshop expert, I’d really recommend doing your levitation photoshoots on cloudy days or in the shade. That way, you can avoid difficult shadows and get realistic results straight out of the camera.

2. Tell your model what to wear

In my experience, clothing can make or break a levitation image. Therefore, it’s essential that you guide your model in their wardrobe choices. Here are a few handy items of advice:

• Solid-color clothing is best. Prints and patterns can make it difficult to clone out certain parts of clothing or liquify fabric.
• Avoid jackets and sweaters. Anytime the model lies upside down or sideways, the garment should technically be hanging down – but if the model is actually lying on a stool, the jacket won’t hang naturally, and the result will be less realistic.
• If you’re going for a feminine levitation shot, long dresses, skirts, and other flowy fabrics can give you a very cool look.

3. Shoot from a low angle

If you use a wide-angle lens and get down low, your subject will appear to float higher in the air. (Conversely, if you shoot down on your subject from above, they’ll appear closer to the ground.)

In general, it’s better to get low, but be mindful of your angle. If you get lower than the perch your model is standing or lying on, the perch’s material will start to block the model’s body, and you’ll be unable to realistically remove the perch in Photoshop.

It’s safest to shoot in line with the top of the perch (and you can also make sure your model is sitting at the very front of the perch to lessen the risk of issues).

How to take floating photos: an additional resource

If you’re looking for a more visual tutorial, I highly recommend the video below! Not everyone captures levitation shots the same way, and the video is geared toward product and still-life photographers, but it’s definitely worth a watch.

Here’s the process detailed in the video:

What you need

1. A camera
2. A tripod
3. Photo-editing software

The levitation photography approach

1. Choose an object that you want to make float.
2. Expose for your subject (this will vary depending on the lighting!).
3. The trick is to take one photo holding your subject with your left hand, and then a second photo holding your subject with your right hand.
4. Make sure you choose Grids ON in your camera menu.
5. Line up the subject in the same spot for each shot (that’s where the grid comes in handy!).
6. Use manual focus for each shot; you want the focus to be the same for each photo.
7. Hold your subject with one hand, focus, and take the first photo.
8. While still holding your subject, grab the opposite side with your other hand (keeping it in the same position). Let go with the first hand, and without moving, take the second photo. Try this as many times as necessary to get a good result.
9. Edit your best photos in Lightroom (or the editing program of your choice).
10. Once you determine the two shots you want to combine, send the image over to Photoshop.
11. Select the image with your subject held in your left hand. Double-click the layer in the Layer Palette to make it editable.
12. Press Ctrl/Cmd+A to select the layer contents, then Ctrl/Cmd+C to copy.
13. Switch to the other image. Double-click the layer in the Layers Palette to make the layer editable.
14. Press Ctrl/Cmd+V to paste the image you copied into the second file.
15. Lower the opacity of the top layer to about 36% so you can see to line up the contents of the shots.
16. Move the top layer until it is lined up.
17. Next, we want to take the top layer and delete parts we don’t want.
18. Add a layer mask to the top layer and select your Brush Tool (make sure the brush is soft!).
19. Change the foreground color in your toolbar to black; that way, you can paint out areas of the layer mask.
20. Paint out the areas you don’t want. Start with a larger brush, then make the brush smaller and continue to paint out areas you don’t need.
21. Check all your lines around your image to ensure they line up.
22. Apply any additional edits, and you are done!

Levitation photography: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know how to create high-quality levitation photos.

So plan a levitation photoshoot. Have fun. See what you can capture.

Now over to you:

What type of levitation photos do you plan to create? Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post Levitation Photography: A Comprehensive Guide (+ Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Danielle Ness.

This article was updated in January 2025 with contributions from Kaspars Grinvalds, Karen Quist, and Darlene Hildebrandt.

Want to know how to pose men so your portraits consistently shine? Posing men isn’t especially difficult, yet many beginner portrait photographers struggle to produce nice, clean, high-quality results – and that’s where we come in.

In this article, we share 21 male posing ideas, ranging from simple, beginner-focused ideas to complex options for experienced photographers. We include a mix of styles, including corporate, informal, fashion, and more – so no matter your preferred genre of photography, you’re bound to find a pose or two that works.

Plus, we offer a handful of expert tips for male portrait photography; that way, you can confidently handle your future photoshoots!

Let’s dive right in.

How to pose men: 21 ideas

Without further ado, here are 21 outstanding male poses that practically guarantee stunning results:

1. Upper body with crossed arms

Let’s start with a very simple male pose:

Ask your subject to stand up straight, cross their arms, turn one shoulder slightly away, bring their chin toward the camera, and smile.

It works for plenty of portrait styles: informal (e.g., family portraits or senior portraits), business portraits, and even fashion shots.

Two things to watch: The shoulders should be pulled back a little, and the stomach muscles should be kept in check.

2. Full body with crossed arms

Crossed arms work in full-height shots, as well.

So use the same posing guidelines as above, then ask your subject to cross one leg in front of the other. But make sure the body weight is not supported equally on both legs; that will look awkward!

This pose is especially nice for informal photoshoots, such as a family portrait session.

3. One hand on a hip

A recurring question from your subject might be, “Where should I put my hands?”

But while hands are often a point of confusion and awkwardness, the solution is actually quite simple. There are four places a subject can position their hands, and they can be mixed and matched in any combination:

1. Loosely by the side
2. On the hips
3. In the pockets
4. Crossed on the chest

Note that hands should always be relaxed, which means no muscle pressure (unless you’re photographing a bodybuilder!)

For this pose, the man should put one hand on his hip, stand square to the camera, and let the other hand dangle loosely – though feel free to experiment with different hand positions, too!

4. Full body with hands in the pockets

Here’s another casual pose for a man standing upright.

Ask your subject to square his body to the camera, with his weight equally distributed on both legs and his nose pointed at the lens. In general, I recommend that the hands go in the pants pockets, thumbs out; this is a surefire way to achieve a natural and relaxed pose. However, you can use jacket pockets, too!

5. Clothes over the shoulder

This pose is a bit edgier and fashion-conscious. It can work for corporate or fashion shots but should be avoided during family and senior portraits.

Ask your subject to cross one leg over the other, look at the camera, hook a thumb in their pocket, and throw an item of clothing – such as a suit jacket – over their shoulder. The more casual and relaxed they look, the better!

6. Sitting with one ankle on the knee

Sitting poses tend to be pretty casual, and this one is no exception. Provide your subject with a block or a chair, then ask them to cross their arms and lift one ankle over their knee.

For the best results, shoot slightly from above.

7. Leaning back against the wall

This is one of my favorite upright poses, simply because it’s ultra-easy and looks really great.

Just have your model put their back to a wall and casually recline. Their hands can go in their pockets, and – for a bit of additional flair – ask them to put one foot against the wall (while the other stays flat against the floor).

8. Leaning sideways against the wall

This is a variation on the above pose. Simply ask your model to turn so one shoulder presses against the wall, then encourage them to cross their legs.

While you can certainly use a hands-in-the-pockets look, try asking your subject to cross their arms instead. Crossed arms are more formal and work well for business portraits.

9. Upper body with an item in the hand

This one’s a very simple pose for a business portrait. Ask your subject to face the camera with one hand in their pocket and the other dangling freely, an item held in the hand (e.g., a laptop, a book, or even a tool).

(If possible, ensure that the items are clear indicators of the subject’s occupation.)

10. Sitting on a desk

Here, you’ll need a relatively sturdy desk. Ask your subject to sit firmly on the edge; you’ll get a very relaxed, yet professional, result. You can experiment with different hand positions, but hands in the pockets or resting on top of the legs works great.

11. Sitting at a desk

Here’s another simple male pose for a business portrait: A man sitting at a desk.

Ask your subject to sit forward slightly. You might also have him rest his chin on his hand while letting the other arm sit on the desk surface. Alternatively, you can have him place his hands together for a more relaxed look.

To reveal the subject’s profession, place work-related items around his arms, such as books, charts, or tools.

12. Sitting at a desk, one arm up

This is another business-style portrait, but with a little extra flair. Ask your subject to sit at a desk and lean forward slightly – but one arm should come across the desk in a V-shape, while the other should fade back.

When done properly, your subject’s shoulder should tilt toward the camera, and their nose should follow.

13. Turned in a chair (away from a desk)

To show the work environment while removing the distance created by a foreground desk, flip the shot around. Ask your subject to sit in their desk chair, but spin around so that they face the camera.

One hand can go on the desk, while the other arm can dangle off the chair. The result?

Formal and inviting.

14. Arms crossed on a desk

Continuing with the desk theme, this composition puts the desk off to the side, with your subject leaning forward, arms crossed on the desk surface.

Ask your subject to tilt one shoulder toward the camera, while pointing their nose at the lens. Again, you could place work-related items on the desk to hint at the subject’s profession.

15. Standing next to a chair

Chairs are great props, and they can easily make a portrait both engaging and interesting. So ask your subject to stand upright with their legs crossed. Add in the chair, then encourage them to place one hand on its back, the other in their pocket.

Professional looking? Yes. But also fun, eye-catching, and a little bit suave.

16. Relaxed in a chair

If you’re taking corporate or even fashion portraits and your subject is struggling to get comfortable in front of the lens, why not make them comfortable – literally?

Just ask them to sit in a chair, lean back, smile, and cross one leg. Later, you can move on to more complex poses, but you’re bound to get a good shot or two out of this simple idea!

17. Sitting on the ground

For business-style portraits, this type of pose is best avoided. But if you’re doing family photo sessions, senior portraits, or another type of informal shot, you’ll love the casual, relaxed images you can capture.

Simply ask your subject to sit on the ground, one arm holding them up from behind and the other dangling over the knee. You might also try a leg cross (as pictured below), as well as other shooting directions and angles.

18. Reclining on the ground

Here’s another variant of a man’s pose while sitting on the ground. Ask your subject to sit, then to lie back while supporting his weight with one arm.

Unlike the male pose displayed above, the subject’s second arm should dangle behind. And make sure the upper arm is completely hidden – otherwise, the shot may turn out a tad awkward.

19. Sitting on the ground with arms over knees

This one’s an easy and relaxed pose for a sitting man. It works well for family portraits, senior photoshoots, and other informal purposes, though it’s best avoided for serious corporate photos.

Ask your subject to sit on the ground with one leg out (knee bent!) and the other leg tucked slightly under the opposite calve. Have them bend forward and rest their forearms on their knees.

20. Reclining against a wall

Here’s one final informal male posing idea, and while it may feel overly relaxed for certain situations (even senior portraits), it’s a great fit for more carefree subjects.

Ask your subject to sit on the ground, supporting their back against a wall, a rock, or even a tree. Encourage them to lean back in a resting pose and bring one leg back while leaving the other straight. You can experiment with different hand positions, though I’d recommend using the illustration as a starting point:

21. Close-up headshot

This is a male pose that never fails, no matter your intent. Corporate, senior portrait, website shot – the close-up headshot won’t let you down.

Ask your subject to sit forward and rest their elbows on a solid surface such as a desk. The hands should overlap loosely and rest comfortably next to your subject’s chin. Test out different head positions, though begin with a look straight toward the camera.

Oh, and one last tip: Never be afraid to crop around your model’s face!

Tips for posing and photographing men

Of course, even once you have plenty of ideas for posing men, you need to know how to approach a male photography session – and you also need to know how to think about posing more generally. In this section, I share my best tips and tricks for great shots, including:

• How to create flattering male poses
• How to keep men engaged in the photography process
• How to get the best results when retouching your portraits
• Much more!

1. Include him in the consultation process

One of the most common complaints I encounter on portrait photography forums is that men tend to be very reluctant when involved in family photoshoots. They turn up to the family shoot looking like it’s the last place on earth they want to be, and their crankiness is infectious. Pretty soon, everyone is annoyed, and it makes your job of capturing all those joyful family connections close to impossible.

I confess that this was also one of my bugbears – until I realized a problem. You see, I was often leaving male partners out of the consultation process. And in every grumpy dad case I encountered, I mistakenly assumed that the woman I spoke with during the consultation would communicate everything to their partner and communicate any concerns their partner might have.

Following a major light-bulb moment, I started to include men in the consultations, and it made a world of difference. As it turned out, my male clients just wanted to be heard! The more you engage with men before the shoot, the more comfortable they will be when you’re wielding a camera, and the better the photos will turn out. (This applies whether you’re photographing a paying client, the guy next door, or your brother.)

So before you conduct a photoshoot that involves a man, talk with him. Ask him if he has any features he’s sensitive about (a prominent nose, a double chin, acne scarring, and a bit of a tummy are common sensitive areas). Allow him to express his insecurities without feeling silly, and reassure him that you can work around these via posing, camera angles, lighting, and post-processing.

Ask him what kind of clothes he feels good in, and make sure he understands how these may work for or against him in photographs. Tread gently; if it’s a family session, there’s a good chance his partner is already on his case.

Finally, if a man makes the effort to dress well for your photoshoot, show him the same respect by paying attention to detail in the editing process. Zoom in close and check for stray hairs his razor may have missed, loose threads, and even smudges left by a child’s fingers.

2. Find purpose and meaning

Before conducting your session, ask the man why he wants the photos taken. If it’s an individual portrait, what is he using it for? If it’s for professional purposes, what kind of work does he do? What kind of look does he want? Then tailor your compositions accordingly.

If he’s a passionate kite-surfing instructor, he may not appreciate a moody black-and-white portrait; instead, he’s much more likely to want an image full of color and action. On the other hand, a budding author may love the black-and-white look!

If you’re doing a family shoot, ask him questions about the family. It sounds like a no-brainer, but you’d be surprised at how often this important step is missed. What does the family like to do together? What is special about his partner? What does he love most about his child or grandchild? Dig deep, and listen to his answers. You’ll appreciate what he reveals, and you can incorporate the insights into your photos.

The image below shows dad with my eldest daughter, and it’s one of my personal favorites. He told me he loves the fact that, even though she is a teenager, she still takes his hand or his arm when they go for walks together through the forest near his home. I like how the arch of the trees frames them. To me, it suggests they are walking toward the future together.

The man in the photos below told me that he marvels at the smallness of his new daughter’s hands and feet. Like many young dads, he is at a very busy stage in his professional life. Often his baby is asleep by the time he gets home at night, so he cherishes the quiet moments they get to spend together.

The photo below features two cousins. They played together as children but have lived on separate continents since their families emigrated from their native country when they were young. I was astonished by how similar their gestures and body language were despite having lived apart for most of their lives, and I wanted to capture that in a photograph. The ocean is symbolic in this photo; though it usually separates them, when I pressed the shutter, they were both on the same side of it.

3. Give him something to lean against or sit on

Regardless of the amount of time you spend preparing, many men are profoundly uncomfortable in front of a camera, especially at the start of a shoot. And if your subject feels uncomfortable, that will come through in the photos, resulting in stiff, awkward, less-than-optimal shots.

So start by asking your subject how they feel in front of the camera. Observe their body language, too, as you take your first few shots. If your subject does seem awkward just standing, ask them to lean against a vertical surface such as a wall, fence, lamppost, or car. It will help them feel anchored and will allow them to angle their body without looking unnatural.

Another option is to find something for them to sit on, like a chair, a bench, or even a rock. You’ll be surprised by how easily it helps your subject relax.

4. Minimize a double chin, a prominent nose, or heavy jowls

Men often have certain features they prefer to deemphasize. It’s important to ask them about this in the consultation process; encourage them to be honest, and ensure that they feel safe sharing these insecurities with you. Often, the list will include double chins, prominent noses, and heavy jowls, so you should take steps to minimize these in your photos.

One way to hide a double chin is to shoot from above eye level with your subject leaning slightly forward. If he’s seated, ask him to rest his forearms on his thighs and angle his knees 45° away from you.

You can also use lighting to your advantage. Strong, directional light can visually slim a face or a torso – it’s a trick that often comes in handy!

The photo on the left was shot from below eye level (the subject was taller than me and was standing) with light falling on both sides of his face. But the photo on the right, where my subject was seated and leaning forward with their head angled away from the camera, is more flattering. Note how strong light reflected off a wall in the late afternoon casts his neck and the left side of his face into shadow.

5. Give him something to do with his hands

When people are facing a camera with their arms hanging down at their sides, they suddenly become self-conscious. “What should I do with my hands?” they ask. And they’re onto something: Dangly hands generally don’t look good! So what do you do?

Instead of letting the hands hang awkwardly, ask him to put one or both hands in his pockets or loop his thumb over his belt. If he’s sitting, have him interlink his fingers or clasp his hands together. If you’re doing a family photoshoot, have him hold a baby or clasp a child’s hand.

You might also consider adding props (depending on the type of male photoshoots you’re conducting). For instance, your subject could hold a book (if he’s an author), a guitar (if he’s a musician), or even an umbrella (if you’re going for a moodier image).

6. Pay attention to the little details

Details such as eyes, lips, and hands help tell a story, and they often depict the connections between people. Of course, you should make sure to get all the wider shots – but don’t forget to zoom in every so often (a close-focusing lens is a big help here) and capture the details, even if they don’t seem like showstopping portrait material.

Hands are a personal favorite of mine. They’re a powerful expression of emotional connection and tenderness, and because of their size, men’s hands are often visually striking when placed side by side with the hands of children.

The portrait below shows a tender and playful moment between father and daughter. His hand is large next to hers, and she smiles as he kisses milk froth from her fingertips.

7. Don’t forget about retouching

Let’s face it: Cameras can be brutal. They do a great job of capturing all those little imperfections the naked eye generally doesn’t see, and they hold it in a static image for the eye to contemplate.

In some styles of male portraiture, this is actually useful. Elderly men with craggy faces are popular subjects for travel photographers and photojournalists. However, wrinkles and blemishes are not something you want to highlight in family photos or corporate headshots, so it’s important that you spend some time removing or minimizing these items in the editing room.

Men will give you hints during the consultation and the shoot. If he cracks jokes such as, “Can you Photoshop me to make me look 10 years younger?” or “Can you make me look like George Clooney?” he’s probably only half-kidding. Just because he’s a man doesn’t mean he’s okay with acne or out-of-place nose hairs.

Now, when it comes to editing, much will depend on your personal style. While I’m not a fan of heavily edited portraits, I still follow a careful Lightroom workflow. With men, I use the Brush tool to soften skin, but the effect is always subtle (his skin probably shouldn’t appear softer than a woman’s or child’s skin in the same photo).

When it comes to blemishes, my rule of thumb is to remove anything that is temporary. Pimples, scratches, stray hairs – if it’s going to be gone from his face in a couple of weeks, I’ll remove it from his face in the post-processing stage. But unless the client specifically asked me to, I wouldn’t remove a mole or a birthmark.

Additional resources for posing men

Looking for additional advice on creating amazing male poses? First, check out this hands-on video from Adorama; in it, expert portrait photographer Emily Teague walks you through the basics of masculine posing:

In this second video by Creative Live, instructor Jeff Rojas talks about body language and things to watch for, and also to avoid when posing males. Do you know what clenched fists or hands below the belt line mean? Watch this clip and find out.

Finally, give this Jerry Ghionis video a watch. Yes, it’s long, but the tips that Jerry provides are invaluable, and he does an amazing job of showing exactly what you need to do for top-notch male poses.

How to pose men: final words

Hopefully, you now have a starting point for your male poses! Remember that there are no absolutes; each sample pose might and should be adjusted depending on your shooting environment and scenario. There is no need to overdo anything.

In reality, all you need for good people portraits is simplicity:

Simple backgrounds, simple clothing, simple poses, and natural expressions.

Now over to you:

Do you have any tips for posing men that I missed? Any favorite male poses? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post How to Pose Men (Posing Ideas + Male Photography Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Karen Quist.

While TRAVEL photography hasn’t changed a whole lot, we love to make photographic memories of the places we travel, as well as the journey to get to those places I guess, but what I’ve been thinking about are the tech advances, smaller cameras, better smartphone lenses and sensors, etc…

QUESTION FOR 2026: Do you think you could take a holiday with ONLY your smartphone as a way to capture those holiday photos?

Travel photography is one of the most exciting forms of picture taking; it evokes images of exotic, far-away places and distant lands, enough to thrill any budding photographer.

But how should you approach photographing a new destination? How can you capture images that stand the test of time?

In this article, I share 10 travel photography ideas – that are guaranteed to get your creative juices flowing. So whether you’re headed to a gorgeous city or a stunning island, keep reading. You’re bound to find an idea or two that’ll kickstart your photos!

1. Photograph the city from a rooftop

Cities are a great place to get started with travel photography, as the scenes and lighting are so varied. Plus, when visiting cities, you will find no shortage of incredible views!

For the most majestic city photos, don’t shoot from the ground; instead, shoot from a roof, which will let you capture the city as a whole, and will present a stunning perspective at any time of day.

How can you find accessible rooftops to shoot from? Before arriving at your destination, do some quick Googling. Some famous landmarks offer roof access, as do plenty of bars, restaurants, and parking garages. Some buildings even feature observation decks, which offer mesmerizing views from dizzying heights and will leave you feeling in awe of your wonderful location.

2. Photograph the place you’re staying

Did you know that one of the best travel photography ideas is to simply take images of where you’re staying? It might sound silly, but trust me; once you start looking for photos, you’ll find plenty of opportunities in your accommodations, whether it’s a bed and breakfast or a hotel.

You can photograph the different rooms, the outside of the building, and the doorways and entrances. You might even consider photographing other people staying in the same location (or if no one is available, you can do some self-portraits that capture both you and your accommodations). It’s a great way to hone your travel photography skills and capture memories of your travels.

3. Shoot an unfamiliar street scene

If you’re a beginner travel photographer, one of the easiest ways to introduce yourself to the genre is by capturing an image of an unfamiliar street. That way, you have some fun exploring – and you can record the essence of your destination.

So the next time you’re visiting a town or a city, take your camera with you, walk the streets, and find a beautiful street scene. Try to include interesting elements, such as stunning architecture, eye-catching streetlights, essential landmarks, and people wandering about.

4. Capture an image of the city streets at night

If you find yourself in a city at night, then I highly recommend you head out with your camera (though be sure to stay safe, of course!). You can capture stunning images of the city streets when the skies are dark and the buildings are illuminated by streetlights and windows.

The combination of structures and street lights can be dazzling. Use the contrast between the light and the shape of the buildings to make your city street images stand out.

5. Shoot from a hilltop

If you’re visiting a rural area or a natural location, you’ll find that some of the best scenic overlooks are at the summit of a hill. (You can use this trick in certain cities, too; just head to an area with the highest elevation!)

Take a walk or two around your location, looking for hills, mountains, and cliffs. Then head to the top and capture the surroundings from your elevated position! Although the hike might be challenging, you’ll be rewarded for your efforts with a tremendous view – plus, shooting from a bird’s-eye perspective is a great way to capture unique travel photos.

6. Shoot from the ground

While you can capture majestic natural and urban views from the summit of a hill or rooftop…

…sometimes it’s best to stay at ground level, just walking with your camera and enjoying the scenery. After all, ground-level photos do provide a more intimate perspective of your destination, plus they reflect how most vacation-goers experience the area.

And if you do shoot from the ground, you’ll still find some of the best views, including striking landscapes and architectural delights. You’ll also encounter street scenes filled with cars, buildings, lights, and life that changes constantly as people go about their day. Be patient and capture each scene as it unfolds!

7. Capture your travels on a local adventure

Do you want to do travel photography, but you’re not currently able to visit far-flung corners of the globe? That’s totally okay – because you can always find plenty of travel subjects right where you live.

You see, travel photography isn’t just about capturing exotic locations. It’s also about exploring and approaching subjects with a fresh perspective, which you can do from just outside your house! (Plus, heading out with a camera will help you practice and improve your skills, which is always a bonus!)

So head out in a car, on a bike, or on foot. Capture the surrounding countryside, or go into the nearest city for urban scenes. Visit your local park and capture the scenery, visit a nearby zoo and photograph the residents, or take some images of your hometown.

Sure, your shots might not be exotic, but they can still be beautiful. And you’ll develop your sense of camera settings, light, and composition without spending thousands of dollars traveling to the other side of the world.

8. Capture a panorama

Panoramas are unique, they’re breathtaking, and they’re a great way to capture all of the landscape – so why not take one (or a few) when out traveling?

In fact, capturing a panorama is surprisingly easy. It doesn’t require expensive camera equipment, and you can even get great results with your mobile phone! Simply find your phone’s “Panorama” mode, rotate as instructed, and appreciate your gorgeous final product.

Of course, you don’t need to shoot panoramas everywhere. Reserve them for wide scenes that go beyond the standard horizontal image size.

9. Take a walk in nature

Sometimes when you are traveling to built-up cities, the urban sprawl can be quite chaotic and overwhelming. So a great way to get your creative juices flowing and find inspiration for your travel photography is to go for a walk or hike in nature.

It may take time to get to a good location, particularly if you’re staying in an urban district, but it’s generally worth it; it’ll make you feel refreshed, and when you’re done, you’ll be ready to tackle urban travel photography once again.

Also, feel free to bring your camera on your natural excursion! You’ll find many things to photograph, from birds and animals to flowers and foliage. And there’s a bonus: the health benefits that come from spending time in the great outdoors. 

10. Get lost

Guidebooks are an easy way to familiarize yourself with a new area. But sometimes, the best way to find great travel photos is to simply…get lost.

Wandering in an unfamiliar place heightens the senses and can give you so much more creative freedom in your travel photos. I’ve found that getting lost leads to unexpected places that I may not have found if I had spent all my time following the guidebook and its recommendations.

So take your time, get lost, and enjoy the experience. You never know where you might end up and what you might find to photograph on your journey!

Travel photography ideas: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you should have a few travel photography ideas to keep you inspired when out shooting.

Capturing beautiful travel photography doesn’t have to be hard. Simply remember the ideas I’ve shared, have fun, and enjoy your adventures!

Now over to you:

Which of these ideas for travel photography will you use? Do you have any ideas that I didn’t mention? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 10 Travel Photography Ideas to Get You Inspired in 2024 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.