Here’s what Carbon is, why Google is leading with security, what it costs, and what’s still unproven (spoiler: quite a lot). Google’s official announcement is the primary source for Google’s claims below; third-party sources are linked where we use them. All sources were checked as of October 28, 2026.

What Happened

Here’s the short version: Gemini 4 Carbon is Google’s newest frontier model, which is the industry’s term for a company’s most advanced, top-of-the-line AI. Google says it builds on Gemini 4 Argon, which launched only about two weeks earlier. That’s a fast turnaround, even by AI-industry standards. If you just got used to the name “Argon,” we feel your pain.

According to Google’s announcement, Carbon’s main selling points are:

• Cybersecurity skills: Google says Carbon is very good at finding security holes in software, checking whether those holes can actually be exploited, and writing fixes.
• Long-horizon persistence: Google says Carbon can keep working on one hard problem for a long time. Internally, Google says it has seen the model work for days on difficult engineering problems without giving up. That claim comes from Google’s own internal testing and hasn’t been independently verified from outside the company.
• Safer code than Argon: Google says that on its internal benchmarks, Carbon achieves more than 2x Argon’s success rate at generating secure code. Google hasn’t named that benchmark or published its methodology.
• A #1 ranking on an independent index: Google says Carbon ranks #1 on the newly updated Artificial Analysis Intelligence Index v5.0 with a score of 59. Artificial Analysis itself logged a new evaluation of “Gemini 4 Carbon (High)” on October 28 and published an article headlined “Gemini 4 Carbon is the new #1 on the Artificial Analysis Intelligence Index v5.”
• A deliberate, phased rollout: Google is starting with a subset of cyber defenders this week and will gradually phase in more trusted partners through its Fairwind Program. It says developers, businesses, and consumers will follow “as soon as possible.”

9to5Google’s coverage of the same announcement is useful if you’d like a second read.

What “state-of-the-art cybersecurity” actually means

“State-of-the-art” is a phrase that gets thrown around a lot, so here’s what Google is actually claiming. It points to three security tests, and each one measures a different part of a security team’s job. Think of it like a home inspector who has to find the crack in the foundation, decide whether it’s actually dangerous, and then patch it.

Source: Google’s announcement. Independent third-party reproductions of these exact numbers weren’t found in our research as of October 28, 2026.

The ExploitGym score is the one worth noticing. Just over half sounds modest, and it is. Proving that a vulnerability can really be used in an attack is much harder than spotting one. (It’s the difference between noticing that a window is unlocked and actually climbing through it.)

What “long-horizon” means

Most AI chatbots work in short bursts. You ask, they answer, and if the problem is hard, they often stall or give you something half-finished. When Google calls Carbon “long-horizon,” it means the model is built to keep going through dead ends on a multi-step problem instead of quitting early. Picture a stubborn bug that takes a human engineer several days to fix. Google’s claim is that Carbon can keep working on that kind of bug for days at a time.

That’s an impressive claim. Keep in mind that it comes from Google’s own internal experience, not from an outside test. No independent lab has confirmed this ability outside of Google’s own reporting.

Why Google is leading with security

Google’s rollout plan explains a lot here. A model that’s good at finding and testing software weaknesses is useful to defenders, the people patching their own systems. That same skill could also be useful to attackers. So Google is putting it in the hands of “cyber defenders” first, meaning security teams that use AI to find and patch vulnerabilities. Google describes this as responsible deployment. In plain terms, it wants the good guys to get a head start.

Who Gets It, and When

This is the part most readers care about, and the answer is a little disappointing. Google describes a phased approach rather than a fixed schedule:

• A subset of cyber defenders gets access starting this week.
• Additional trusted partners are phased in gradually through Google’s Fairwind Program.
• Developers, businesses, and consumers get it through Google’s products after Google gathers more feedback and iterates on its guardrails.

For that last step, Google’s only wording is “as soon as possible.” That’s not a date. There’s no confirmed timeline for when Carbon will appear in the regular Gemini app or any other consumer product. Google’s announcement doesn’t describe any general sign-up for consumers.

Some outside sites, like projedefteri.com, track possible release dates. Treat those as guesses until Google says otherwise.

What It Costs

Google has published introductory API pricing. An API is the way software developers plug an AI model into their own apps, so this is a price for businesses and developers, not a Gemini app subscription.

Source: Google’s announcement.

A token is a small chunk of text, roughly a piece of a word. “Input” is what you send the model, and “output” is what it writes back. “Cached” input is text the model has already seen and can reuse, like the same long instructions sent over and over. Applied to the $2 introductory input rate, a 95% discount brings cached input down to about 10 cents per million tokens.

Google says this is the same introductory pricing as Gemini 4 Argon. So if you’re a small business already budgeting for Argon through the API, Google isn’t charging more for the new model, at least for now. Those are introductory rates, though.

Google says that once the introductory period expires, Carbon will cost $4 per million input tokens and $20 per million output tokens, double the launch price. It hasn’t said when the introductory period ends. Google also hasn’t announced any consumer pricing or a new subscription tier for Carbon, so don’t assume one exists.

How It Stacks Up

Gemini 4 Carbon vs. Gemini 4 Argon

Google says Carbon builds on Gemini 4 Argon, which has only been around for about two weeks. According to Google, Carbon:

• Achieves more than 2x Argon’s success rate at generating secure code on Google’s internal benchmarks (Google hasn’t named the benchmark or published its methodology).
• Holds on to long, difficult tasks better than Argon.

One thing to watch: benchmark numbers circulating online for tests like DeepSWE v1.1 and LVBench aren’t always clearly labeled by model version. We couldn’t independently confirm which figures belong to Argon versus Carbon in every secondary roundup. When comparing scores from unofficial sources, check carefully which model each number actually describes.

Google also shared a WebDev Arena result. Carbon gained 89 Elo points (a chess-style rating) to reach #4 at 1,768. Google highlighted that as a big improvement, but it didn’t claim the top WebDev Arena spot.

Gemini 4 Carbon vs. Claude and ChatGPT

This is the question everyone asks: is it better than ChatGPT or Claude? The short answer is that Carbon now tops one independent composite index, and there’s no head-to-head data yet for everyday tasks.

The one cross-vendor comparison from an independent tester is the Artificial Analysis Intelligence Index v5.0, which rolls many evaluations into a single score. Google’s announcement says Carbon scores 59 there, and Artificial Analysis published an Oct. 28 article titled “Gemini 4 Carbon is the new #1 on the Artificial Analysis Intelligence Index v5”:

We haven’t independently confirmed the current scores for Claude or ChatGPT models on that index, so we’ve left them out of the table rather than guess at the margin. Google’s headline security tests (SEC-bench Pro, ExploitGym, CWE-bench) come from Google’s own announcement, so those scores are still Google’s own claims until outside testers reproduce them. Some non-official compilations, such as kie.ai, also circulate coding-test numbers for rival models, but none come from the model makers, so we’ve left them out.

The Reaction

Reaction to the official announcement is still forming, since it went out on Oct. 28.

Most of the online chatter so far predates the announcement. Before launch, Nokia Power User reported what it described as a Carbon checkpoint appearing on an AI arena; Google hasn’t confirmed that. Early tester write-ups, such as TestingCatalog’s, shared general impressions of unreleased builds without describing the builds, workloads, or conditions.

Those are anecdotes from unreleased test versions, not measured results, so don’t treat them as facts about the shipping model.

Our Take

Who should care right now:

• Security teams: Google designed Carbon for you, tuned its benchmarks for your work, and put you first in line. If your organization does vulnerability research or patching, it’s worth finding out whether you qualify for early access or the Fairwind Program.
• Engineering teams with long, stubborn problems: If past AI tools have given up on your multi-day bugs, Carbon’s long-horizon pitch speaks directly to you. Wait for broader developer access and independent testing before you reorganize around it.
• Small businesses budgeting for AI: The introductory API pricing matches Argon’s, but budget for the $4/$20 standard rate once the introductory period ends.

Who should wait: Pretty much everyone else. If you use Gemini, ChatGPT, or Claude to draft emails, plan trips, or settle trivia arguments, nothing changes for you today. There’s no Carbon in your app and no release date. Also, Carbon’s best claimed skills, like finding exploits, aren’t things most of us do on a Tuesday afternoon.

Our view: the cautious rollout is the most interesting part of this announcement. Google is saying a model this good at security work shouldn’t be handed to everyone on day one. Artificial Analysis’s #1 listing is a good early sign, but Google’s security benchmark scores still need independent reproduction.

What to Do Next

If you’re a regular user, your one practical step is to bookmark Google’s official announcement and check it for rollout updates instead of trusting release-date rumors.

Also, AI tools are getting better at finding software weaknesses, on both the defending and attacking sides. That makes basic security habits a little more important. Keep your devices updated, use a password manager, and consider a hardware security key for important accounts like email and banking. None of that needs Carbon, and all of it helps right now.

Wrapping Up

Gemini 4 Carbon is Google’s big claim that it has built a much stronger AI, especially for finding and fixing security holes and for sticking with hard problems for days. For now, it’s mostly available to security teams. Artificial Analysis now ranks it #1 on its Intelligence Index, but its headline security scores are still Google’s own figures. And there’s no date yet for when regular people can try it.

Honestly? That’s fine. A careful rollout for a security-focused model makes sense, and it gives outside testers time to check Google’s numbers before the hype takes over.

Sources

• cellcog.ai
• checkpoint spotted on an AI arena
• TestingCatalog's early results

The post Google announces Gemini 4 Carbon with state-of-the-art cybersecurity and long-context capabilities first appeared on Online Tech Tips.

So which is the best online PDF editor? For most people, it’s Adobe Acrobat Online. It covers nearly every job in this guide, from signing to editing existing text on paid plans, and its free tools handle signing and commenting well. If you mostly need quick conversions or compression, Smallpdf and iLovePDF are simpler and cheaper.

This list is all browser-based, and pricing and features can change, so treat specific numbers here as a starting point rather than the final word. It’s a different animal from our older roundups of Chrome PDF extensions and Windows 10 desktop editors. We’ve organized it by the job you need done, and we’re upfront about free-tier limits so nothing surprises you halfway through a task.

Quick Comparison

Prices change often and can vary by region or promotion. Always check the vendor’s pricing page before you subscribe.

Which Tool for Which Job?

If you’re in a hurry, here’s the short version.

• Sign a document quickly: Adobe Acrobat Online’s free tools or Smallpdf. pdfFiller is the pick if you sign the same kinds of forms over and over.
• Fill in a form: pdfFiller is built for this. Adobe, Soda PDF, and Xodo also handle form filling.
• Change the existing text itself: Adobe Acrobat Online, using a paid Standard or Pro plan or a free trial. Adobe’s basic free web tools focus on annotating and signing rather than rewriting body text (Adobe).
• Convert a PDF to Word (or back): Smallpdf, iLovePDF, or Soda PDF.
• Compress a big PDF before emailing it: Smallpdf, iLovePDF, or Soda PDF.
• OCR a scanned document: Adobe Acrobat Online, Smallpdf, or Soda PDF. OCR stands for optical character recognition. It turns a picture of text into real text you can search and copy.
• Redesign a flyer or brochure: Canva PDF Editor.

1. Adobe Acrobat Online: Best for Professional PDF Editing, Signing, Conversion, and Adobe Ecosystem Integration

Adobe created the PDF format in the early 1990s (it’s now an open ISO standard), so it’s no shock that Adobe Acrobat Online has a deep feature list. The free web tools cover a lot of everyday jobs. You can add comments, highlights, text boxes, drawings, and signatures (Adobe). That alone handles most “please sign and return” emails.

Here’s a catch that trips people up. Adobe’s basic free web tools are designed for adding annotations, comments, and signatures on top of a PDF, not for rewriting the text that’s already there. Full text and image editing is marketed as part of Acrobat, available through a paid plan or Adobe’s free trial (Adobe).

According to Adobe’s pricing page, Acrobat Standard starts at $14.99/month and Acrobat Pro at $19.99/month in the US, both on an annual plan billed monthly. Month-to-month plans cost more, and annual plans have their own cancellation terms, so read them before you commit. Those paid plans unlock full text and image editing, conversion, OCR, and compression (Adobe).

Adobe is also rolling out an AI Assistant for summarizing and asking questions about documents. It’s arriving in phases, so don’t panic if you don’t see it yet (Adobe Help).

Key Specs & Features:

• Edit text and images: Full editing via a paid plan or free trial; free web tools focus on annotations.
• Fill and sign: Free online.
• Convert, OCR, compress: Available across the online tools, with full access on paid plans.

Privacy note: Adobe publishes its file-handling details in its Acrobat FAQ and privacy policy. Check them before uploading anything sensitive.

Quick Walkthrough: Signing a PDF With Acrobat Online

Adobe documents its web flow publicly (Adobe Learn), so it’s a good example of how these tools generally work. Labels can shift a bit as Adobe updates the site.

• Go to the Acrobat Online page, choose the edit or fill-and-sign tool, and upload your PDF. Your document opens in the browser.

• Use the toolbar to add text, comments, or your signature. You can type, draw, or upload an image of your signature (a cheap stylus makes drawn signatures look much less like a toddler’s scribble).

• Download the finished file. Adobe may ask you to sign in with a free account first.

2. Smallpdf: Best for Quick Browser-Based PDF Conversion, Compression, and Signing

Smallpdf is the “I just need this done” tool. The homepage is basically a grid of tasks: compress, convert, edit, sign, and more. Pick one, drop in your file, and you’re off. Nobody should need a manual to shrink a PDF, and with Smallpdf you won’t.

It covers compression, conversion to and from Office formats, annotation, signing, and OCR, and it also connects to cloud storage.

As of October 2026, Smallpdf’s free plan allows a limited number of tasks per day without an account, and full text editing is reserved for the paid Pro plan, which removes that cap. Exact quotas and any file-size limits can shift, so confirm the current numbers on Smallpdf’s pricing page before starting a big batch of files.

Smallpdf lists current Pro pricing on its pricing page, and rates can vary by billing cycle and region. Check the site directly before subscribing.

Key Specs & Features:

• Compress and convert: The core strength
• Edit, annotate, sign: Basic tools free, more on Pro
• OCR and cloud integrations: Included in the toolset

Pros:

• Very simple interface
• Large selection of browser tools

Cons:

• Free usage is capped
• Full text editing requires a paid plan

Privacy note: Check Smallpdf’s privacy policy for how long uploaded files stay on its servers.

3. iLovePDF: Best for Affordable PDF Merging, Splitting, Conversion, and Compression

iLovePDF is the budget pick for people who do a lot of file wrangling. Think combining five scanned receipts into one PDF, splitting a long report into chapters, or converting a Word doc for a job application. Its tool menu is huge, and each tool does one thing well.

As of October 2026, iLovePDF’s free plan limits how many tasks you can run per hour and caps file sizes for each job.

Premium removes those limits and offers unlimited document processing for $5 a month billed annually, or $9 a month if you pay monthly. Regional pricing may differ, so confirm current rates on iLovePDF’s pricing page before subscribing.

Key Specs & Features:

• Merge and split: Its bread and butter
• Convert: Office files and images to and from PDF
• Compress, sign, organize: Covered as separate tools

Pros:

• Competitive pricing
• Very broad tool selection

Cons:

• Free plan has task and file limits
• Editing isn’t as deep as Acrobat’s

Privacy note: Review iLovePDF’s privacy policy for its file-deletion terms before uploading personal documents.

4. pdfFiller: Best for Teams Managing Forms, Signatures, and Repeatable Document Workflows

If you run a small business and send the same intake form, contract, or waiver every week, pdfFiller is worth a look. It’s built around forms. You can edit and fill PDFs, collect e-signatures, save templates, and route documents to other people.

There’s no ongoing free tier in the usual sense, but there’s a free trial. Paid plans are billed monthly or annually, with annual billing typically costing less overall.

Plan names and exact pricing can change, so check pdfFiller’s site for current tiers before subscribing.

Key Specs & Features:

• Edit and fill forms: The main event
• E-signatures and templates: Reuse documents instead of rebuilding them
• Sharing and workflow tools: Send documents around for signing

Pros:

• Strong form and workflow tools
• Good fit for business paperwork

Cons:

• Price climbs for advanced features
• Overkill for someone who signs one PDF a year

Privacy note: pdfFiller stores documents in your account by design, so check its privacy policy and delete files you no longer need.

5. Soda PDF Online: Best for an All-in-One Online Editor With OCR, Conversion, and E-Signatures

Soda PDF Online tries to be a Swiss Army knife. Editing, OCR, conversion, merging, splitting, e-signing, and document security all live under one roof. It suits people who want one subscription instead of hopping between three websites.

Some basic online tools are free. According to the Soda PDF plans page, the paid individual plan is called Soda PDF Pro, and it covers Soda PDF Online and the Windows desktop app. Pro adds e-signatures, batch processing, forms, AI tools, and OCR that makes scanned text searchable. Editable OCR text is reserved for the Business plan. Soda PDF doesn’t list prices on that page, so check them at checkout.

Key Specs & Features:

• Edit and OCR: Make scanned files searchable (Pro); edit recognized text (Business)
• Convert, merge, split: The usual file-management trio
• E-sign and secure: Sign documents and protect them

Pros:

• Broad feature coverage across online and Windows desktop
• One Pro subscription covers both

Cons:

• Free version is limited
• Plan names and pricing vary by region

Privacy note: Check Soda PDF’s privacy policy for current file-retention details.

6. Xodo PDF Online: Best for Users Wanting Cross-Platform PDF Editing and Conversion With a Web Option

Xodo PDF Online makes the most sense if you bounce between devices. Xodo also has mobile and desktop apps, so the web version fits into a bigger family. That’s handy if you start marking up a document on your laptop and want to finish it on your phone.

On the web, you can edit and annotate, convert and organize documents, fill forms, and sign. Free use is capped daily. Per the Xodo pricing page, the Xodo Web plan costs $7.99/month billed annually ($95.88 a year), with a free 3-day trial, 40+ online tools, and unlimited downloads. The Xodo Document Suite plan adds the desktop and mobile apps. Xodo says most of its tools process files locally on your device, and uploaded files are deleted after one hour.

Key Specs & Features:

• Edit and annotate: Mark up documents in the browser
• Convert and organize: Rearrange and convert files
• Fill and sign: Basic form filling and signatures
• OCR: Included in the paid Xodo Web plan

Pros:

• Cross-platform product family
• Useful mix of editing and conversion tools

Cons:

• Some signing workflows use separate products
• Free access is limited

Privacy note: Xodo says most tools run locally, and files that do need uploading are permanently deleted after one hour.

7. Canva PDF Editor: Best for Visually Redesigning PDF Pages and Marketing Documents in a Browser

Canva PDF Editor is the odd one out, and that’s the point. It’s for when you’ve got a dull PDF flyer, menu, or brochure and want it to look good, so look elsewhere if you need to sign a lease. You get drag-and-drop layouts, a big template library, and branding tools, and then you export the result as a PDF.

The free plan covers core design and PDF export. Canva Pro adds more features, and its pricing varies by region and billing cycle. Check Canva’s site for current rates before subscribing.

Key Specs & Features:

• Edit layouts and visuals: Move, restyle, and replace elements
• Export as PDF: Save designs back to PDF
• Templates, branding, collaboration: Expanded on Pro

Pros:

• Excellent visual design tools
• Huge template and asset library

Cons:

• Not built for complex legal or contract editing
• Text reflow and form features are weaker than dedicated PDF editors

Privacy note: Canva saves designs to your account. Review its privacy policy if you’re uploading anything confidential.

Free-Tier Limits and Privacy at a Glance

The table below summarizes what we could confirm about each tool’s free-tier limits and data handling, as of October 2026. Billing figures are listed in US dollars; regional pricing and exact quotas can differ and change over time, so treat this as a snapshot rather than a guarantee.

Where we couldn’t independently verify a specific number, we’ve said so rather than guessing, and you should check the vendor’s own pricing and privacy pages before a time-sensitive task.

How to Choose the Best Online PDF Editor

Before you pull out a credit card, ask yourself a few questions.

• Do You Need an Online Tool at All? Maybe not! Microsoft Edge comes with Windows and handles basic viewing, annotating, and simple form filling for free. On a Mac, Preview supports markup, signatures, and page reordering. Neither is built for OCR or batch conversion the way the tools above are, and features vary by app version, but for a quick signature they’re often enough.
• Annotate vs. Truly Edit: Many free tiers let you add text on top of a page. Changing existing text is a different job, and it usually needs a paid plan or free trial (Adobe being a clear example).
• Check the Free-Tier Fine Print: Limits differ by tool. Smallpdf and Xodo cap daily free use, iLovePDF caps free tasks and file sizes, and Soda PDF requires an account for most tools. These limits change, so check each pricing page before starting a long task. Running out of free tasks halfway through a project is maddening.
• Occasional vs. Regular Use: For a few jobs a year, stick with free tiers. For regular use on a budget, iLovePDF offers an affordable Premium tier. For business forms, pdfFiller’s templates save real time. If you need serious editing, Adobe is worth the higher price.
• Think About Privacy: You’re uploading your file to someone else’s server. For tax returns, medical records, or contracts, read the vendor’s privacy policy to see how long files are kept. If you’re unsure, use Edge or Preview, which work locally on your computer.
• Start With Good Scans: OCR and compression work better on clean scans. A decent portable document scanner (or a good scanning app on your phone) beats a crooked photo of a crumpled page every time.

Common Hiccups

• Can’t Edit Existing Text: You’re probably on a free tier that only supports annotations. You’ll need a paid plan or a free trial that includes full editing.
• Hit a Daily Limit: Wait for it to reset, shrink the file first, or upgrade.
• Can’t Download the Finished File: Many tools ask you to create a free account first. Sign in and try again.
• Watermark on Your File: Check that tool’s free-tier terms. Paid plans usually remove watermarks.

Wrapping Up

You don’t need a pricey desktop app to sign, convert, or shrink a PDF anymore. A browser and the right website will do. Adobe Acrobat Online is the best all-rounder, especially if you actually need to edit existing text. Smallpdf and iLovePDF are great for quick, cheap file jobs. pdfFiller, Soda PDF, Xodo, and Canva each fill a specific niche.

My honest take? Try the free tools first, and Edge or Preview before that. Only pay once you keep hitting the same limit. That’s when a subscription earns its keep.

The post Best Online PDF Editors in 2026: Tools to Edit, Sign, and Convert PDFs first appeared on Online Tech Tips.

If your digital life runs through an iPhone and a Mac, you’ve probably watched Gmail users get ChatGPT inbox tricks while your iCloud account sat on the sidelines. That gap is now closed. Below we cover what changed, who gets it, and what to know before you hand an AI the keys to your inbox.

What Happened

According to OpenAI’s release notes, the October 27, 2026 entry adds iCloud Mail and Calendar plugins to ChatGPT. OpenAI also calls these connectors. In plain English, a connector is a bridge that lets ChatGPT reach into another service you use, here Apple’s email and calendar, so you can work with it from a chat window.

Once you link your accounts, OpenAI says ChatGPT can:

• Search and read your iCloud Mail: Ask it to find a message or summarize what’s waiting in your inbox.
• Catch you up on your inbox: Handy after a vacation, or after a long weekend of ignoring your phone.
• Check your upcoming schedule: Ask what’s on your iCloud Calendar today or this week.
• Create or update calendar events: Add a dentist appointment or move a meeting mid-conversation, and the change shows up in Apple’s Calendar.

One thing to clear up right away: this isn’t a new AI model. It’s a feature added to the ChatGPT you already use. OpenAI’s release notes page also lists other, unrelated updates around the same general timeframe, but the iCloud connectors don’t depend on any of them.

Nothing here comes with benchmark scores, because there’s nothing to benchmark. It’s plumbing, not a new brain.

Who This Affects

The short version: anyone with a ChatGPT account and an Apple-hosted iCloud email address.

Which email accounts qualify. This is the part most headlines skip. The iCloud Mail connector only works with addresses ending in @icloud.com, @me.com, or @mac.com, per MacRumors. Apple’s Mail app can show your Gmail, Outlook, and work accounts all in one inbox, but that doesn’t mean ChatGPT can see them.

If your Gmail lives inside Apple Mail, this connector won’t touch it. You’d use ChatGPT’s separate Gmail and Google Calendar connector for that, which Cult of Mac reports had already been available before this update, though the exact rollout date isn’t established in the sources we reviewed.

Which ChatGPT plans. OpenAI’s release notes say the feature is available on all ChatGPT plans. You don’t need to upgrade to use the basic iCloud Mail and Calendar connectors. (We’re not quoting plan prices here because the sources don’t list them, and OpenAI shuffles those often enough that you’re better off checking its own plans page.)

Which devices. OpenAI lists web, desktop, and iOS. Here’s how that breaks down:

On the Web

Head to chatgpt.com in any modern browser and sign in. The web version is the most universal option. It works the same on a Windows PC, a Mac, or a Chromebook, so if you’re not sure whether your setup is supported, start here.

On macOS

OpenAI’s release notes list the ChatGPT desktop app as supported, but they don’t break out macOS separately from Windows, so we can’t independently confirm macOS-specific support beyond the general “desktop app” mention.

Mac owners are still a likely primary audience, since they’re already deep into iCloud. If the feature does appear in your Mac’s ChatGPT desktop app, calendar changes should land in the same iCloud Calendar that syncs to Apple’s Calendar app.

On Windows

OpenAI’s release notes mention a “desktop app” but don’t specify whether that includes Windows separately from macOS, so we can’t confirm whether the iCloud connectors work on a Windows desktop app specifically.

If the connector doesn’t show up in your Windows desktop app, use ChatGPT in your browser instead, since the web version is confirmed to work across platforms. Plenty of people run an iPhone alongside a Windows laptop, so this is worth watching. Getting at your iCloud calendar from a Windows PC has always been a bit clunky, and ChatGPT could become one more way in once Windows support is confirmed.

On iOS

The ChatGPT iPhone app is on OpenAI’s supported list. That makes sense: if you live on your iPhone, asking ChatGPT “what’s on my calendar tomorrow?” is a natural thing to do.

Android isn’t mentioned in the sources we reviewed, so its availability is unconfirmed either way. Treat it as unknown rather than assuming it’s excluded.

The Details

Here’s everything you need, in one place:

• An iCloud email address ending in @icloud.com, @me.com, or @mac.com.
• An Apple ID that can create an app-specific password. An app-specific password is a one-off password Apple generates so a third-party app can reach your iCloud account without using your real Apple ID password. Think of it like a spare house key you give the dog walker. It opens one door, and you can take it back without changing your locks. Per MacRumors, ChatGPT requires one to connect.
• A ChatGPT account on any plan.
• Separate connections for Mail and Calendar. Per MacRumors, Mail and Calendar are listed as two separate plugins, so expect to link each one individually. Worth noting: OpenAI’s own documentation suggests Calendar access may rely on your primary Apple Account email, which can differ from your @icloud.com, @me.com, or @mac.com Mail address, so the two connectors could end up tied to slightly different email identities.

The basic setup flow looks like this:

• Sign in to ChatGPT at chatgpt.com (or in the desktop or iOS app).
• Create an app-specific password from your Apple ID account settings.
• Open ChatGPT’s connected apps or connectors area and add iCloud Mail and iCloud Calendar separately, using your Apple ID email and app-specific password for each. Note that your iCloud Mail address and your primary Apple Account email aren’t always the same, so Calendar may prompt for a different email than Mail did.

One caution: the exact menu name for step 3, whether it says “Connectors,” “Apps,” or something else, wasn’t confirmed in the coverage we reviewed, and OpenAI’s own documentation doesn’t spell out a single fixed label either. OpenAI also renames settings areas now and then, so look in ChatGPT’s Settings for whichever section lists third-party services.

The Pro-only wrinkle. Engadget reports that OpenAI’s separate “Dot” agent can also use these iCloud connectors, but only on the Pro plan. That detail comes from Engadget’s reporting. It isn’t stated in OpenAI’s own release notes, so treat it as reported rather than official. Either way, the takeaway is the same: the regular Mail and Calendar connectors are for everyone, and only the Dot agent route reportedly needs Pro.

Is your data safe? Honestly, the coverage we reviewed doesn’t explain how OpenAI handles or stores the mail and calendar data it reads. The app-specific password helps a bit, because ChatGPT never gets your main Apple ID password.

But you are still letting an AI read your inbox, and an inbox holds bank alerts, medical reminders, and password reset links. Before you connect, read OpenAI’s own documentation on connectors and data use. Store that app-specific password in a password manager (or don’t store it at all, since you can always make a new one).

How It Stacks Up

Since this is a connector and not a model, there’s no benchmark race to report. The fair comparison is with ChatGPT’s own Google option, which iCloud users have been staring at enviously for a while.

The big picture: this is about parity. ChatGPT already worked with Google’s ecosystem, and now Apple’s gets a similar seat at the table. The app-specific password is the one extra hoop. That’s typical for how Apple lets outside apps into iCloud, not something OpenAI invented to make your life harder.

What about Siri and Apple Intelligence? It’s a reasonable question, since Apple’s own assistant already has access to your mail and calendar. None of the sources we reviewed compared the two, so we won’t guess at which does a better job.

The Reaction

It’s early, and the public reaction we could find is thin. No Hacker News threads matched this story when we looked, and we don’t have verified links to individual social posts. 9to5Mac reported on the launch alongside OpenAI’s own announcement, but a broader verdict from users is still forming. Give it a week or two of people actually catching up on their inboxes this way.

Our Take

Who should care: iPhone and Mac owners whose main email address ends in @icloud.com, @me.com, or @mac.com, and who already use ChatGPT for everyday stuff. For you, this is a genuine quality-of-life upgrade at no extra cost. Being able to say “what’s on my calendar Thursday, and did the plumber ever email me back?” in one sentence beats bouncing between three apps.

Who can skip it: Anyone whose real email is Gmail or Outlook, even if it shows up in Apple Mail. This connector won’t see those accounts. Use the Gmail connector or wait for other options. Also skip it if you’re uneasy about an AI reading your inbox. That hesitation is reasonable, and nothing in the coverage so far answers the privacy question in detail.

Do you need to pay? Not for the core feature. OpenAI says it’s on all plans. The only paywalled piece, per Engadget, is using it through the Dot agent on Pro. Don’t upgrade just for this unless you specifically want Dot.

What to Do Next

If you qualify and you’re curious, here’s the one step worth taking: connect iCloud Calendar first, and hold off on Mail. Calendar is lower-stakes. The worst case is a misplaced event, not a stray email sent to your boss.

Try it for a few days. If ChatGPT handles your schedule well, then decide whether you’re comfortable giving it your inbox too, especially since MacRumors reports the Mail connector can send messages as well as read them.

Wrapping Up

So yes, ChatGPT can now read your iCloud email, check your schedule, and add events to Apple’s Calendar, and you don’t need a paid plan to do it. Just remember the fine print: Apple-hosted addresses only, an app-specific password to get in, and a reportedly Pro-only Dot agent sitting off to the side.

Our honest take is that it’s a welcome catch-up for Apple users and not a revolution. Start with your calendar, see if it earns your trust, and then think about the inbox.

Sources

• MacRumors
• Engadget
• 9to5Mac

The post OpenAI adds iCloud Mail and Calendar plugin support to ChatGPT first appeared on Online Tech Tips.

Here’s the short answer to the question everyone’s asking: no, you can’t try Genie 4 yet (sorry!). Right now it’s limited to a small group of trusted testers that Google picked. Google says access for Google AI Ultra subscribers and some developers is “coming soon,” and you can join a Project Genie waitlist, but its official announcement posts don’t include a launch date or pricing details.

Below we’ll cover what Genie 4 actually does, what Google has confirmed, which claims floating around tech coverage are still unverified, and whether any of this matters to you yet.

What Happened

Google’s announcement describes Genie 4 as a model that creates real-time, interactive simulated worlds and then lets you steer them with plain language (Google Blog, Google DeepMind, retrieved October 28, 2026).

What is a “world model,” anyway?

If you’ve used ChatGPT, Claude, or the Gemini chatbot, you know the deal: you type a question and get text back. Image and video generators go a step further. You type a prompt and get a picture or a clip. But that clip is “baked,” like a DVD. You can watch it, but you can’t walk into it.

A world model works more like a video game that writes itself as you go. It generates a scene, and then you can interact with it and change what happens next. Think of the difference between watching a movie of a beach and being dropped onto that beach with the ability to say “make it start raining.”

The confirmed features

Here’s what Google officially says Genie 4 does, per its two announcement posts:

• Native audio generation: Genie 4 creates ambient sound, background music, and character dialogue as part of the simulation itself, instead of tacking audio on afterward. Google says all the sound in its official demo videos was generated by Genie 4.
• Real-time steering with natural language: You can type instructions to change a running simulation on the fly. Google’s examples include changing the weather, moving the camera, and adding new characters or objects. In the demos, you move around and control the camera with standard keyboard controls.
• Characters who talk back: People in the simulated world can speak and react to what you do, or to events happening around them. They don’t just wander around in silence.
• Gemini under the hood: Google says Genie 4 builds on its Gemini family. A model called Gemini Omni anchors how things look and behave, other Gemini models supply the reasoning that keeps a scene coherent, and Gemini 3.8 Flash acts as a guiding agent in the loop during real-time generation.
• More realism: Google calls it a big step up in realism over earlier Genie models. It didn’t publish numbers to back that up, though (more on that below).

Google also frames Genie 4 as a step toward more general AI. It points to uses like training robots and AI agents in safe virtual environments, plus creative applications in filmmaking, journalism, gaming, and manufacturing.

Why “native audio” is the headline

Earlier world model demos were silent. That’s a weird experience if you think about it. Imagine a beautiful forest scene with no birds, no wind, and no crunch of leaves. It’s like watching a nature documentary on mute.

Google says the audio is generated simultaneously with the world rather than added afterward. So if you tell Genie 4 to make it rain, the idea is that the rain you hear comes from the model, not from a sound effect someone laid over the top. Google hasn’t detailed the exact architecture behind that.

And when a character talks, the dialogue is supposed to respond to what’s actually happening in the scene.

For gamers and filmmakers, that’s the part that makes this feel less like a tech demo and more like an early sketch of a new kind of creative tool. (If you watch the official demos, a decent pair of noise-cancelling headphones makes a real difference in catching the ambient detail.)

Who Can Use Google Genie 4 Right Now?

This is where expectations need a gentle reality check. As of the October 27 announcement, Genie 4 itself isn’t something you can download or use yet. Google calls it a research preview. Access is rolling out in stages:

• Trusted testers (now): A limited group chosen by Google.
• Project Genie for Google AI Ultra subscribers (“coming soon”): Google says it plans to expand access to people with a Google AI Ultra subscription through something called Project Genie. Google’s DeepMind post links a waitlist for Genie 4 in Project Genie, but it hasn’t said when invitations go out.
• Gemini API and Google AI Studio early access (“coming soon”): Early-access partners of the Gemini API and Google AI Studio are also part of the rollout.

Platforms: Google hasn’t announced an iOS, Android, or desktop app for Genie 4, though it hasn’t explicitly ruled one out either.

How It Stacks Up

Normally this is where we’d put Genie 4 head-to-head with the latest Claude, OpenAI, and Gemini models on benchmarks. There’s a problem: nobody has published any. Google’s official announcement posts don’t include benchmark scores, a spec sheet, or side-by-side numbers against Genie 3. We also didn’t find any reviewer hands-on tests in the coverage available as of October 28, 2026.

It’s also worth saying plainly that Genie 4 isn’t really competing with Claude or ChatGPT. Those are assistants you talk to. Genie 4 builds worlds you move around in. Comparing them is like comparing a word processor to a game engine.

What we can do is sort what’s confirmed from what isn’t:

A note on those unverified claims

You’ll see some very specific numbers in tech coverage this week. They may turn out to be right! But Google’s own announcement posts don’t include them.

The two-minute consistency figure comes from Android Authority’s report, not from Google. Google’s DeepMind post gives no duration. It says Genie 4 keeps environments coherent over short sessions, warns that visual details and object permanence can drift in longer runs, and lists long-term consistency among its open research areas. Until Google confirms a number, treat the two-minute figure as reporting, not fact.

How is this different from Genie 3?

Based on what Google has said, the clearest differences are the native audio, characters who talk and react, and improved realism. Beyond that, Google hasn’t published a detailed side-by-side. If you want more depth, Ars Technica’s write-up focuses on the audio and the more realistic people in the simulations.

The Reaction

Genie 4 is still locked behind a small group of trusted testers, so there isn’t much independent public reaction to go on yet. The coverage we found largely restates what’s in Google’s own posts: the native audio, the real-time text steering, and the robot-training use case.

We couldn’t find a Hacker News thread for the story, and we didn’t gather Reddit discussion. Without wider hands-on access, it’s too early to say whether early reaction has been enthusiastic, skeptical, or something in between.

Our read: the excitement so far is about the idea of sound-enabled AI worlds, based on Google’s demos rather than outside testing. Nobody outside Google’s tester group has gotten their hands on it, so there’s no real-world verdict yet on reliability, length, or quality. The real conversation starts once Project Genie opens up and people can poke holes in it (and they will!).

Our Take

Verdict: Fascinating research, but not something most people need to care about this month.

Here’s who should actually pay attention right now:

• Robotics and AI researchers: This is the group Google most clearly has in mind. A safe virtual sandbox with sound and reactive characters is a genuinely useful training ground, if it holds up.
• Developers on the Gemini API or Google AI Studio: Watch for early-access news. You’ll likely be among the first outside testers.
• Google AI Ultra subscribers: You’re first in line for Project Genie whenever it lands. Don’t buy a Google AI Ultra subscription just for Genie 4, though. Google hasn’t said when it’s coming or exactly what’s included.
• Gamers and content creators: Keep an eye on it. Native audio is the piece that makes AI-generated worlds feel like a creative tool rather than a silent screensaver. Still, Google hasn’t shown a real production workflow yet.
• Everyone else: Watch the demos for fun, and wait. There’s nothing to download yet, though you can join the Project Genie waitlist.

Will it replace ChatGPT or Claude? No. It’s a different kind of tool. Genie 4 builds interactive worlds; chatbots answer questions and write things.

Is it the Gemini chatbot? Not exactly. Google says Genie 4 is built on Gemini models, but it’s a separate research project, not a new mode in the Gemini app.

Quick FAQ

Can I try Genie 4 right now? No. It’s limited to trusted testers selected by Google.

When will it be available to the public? Google hasn’t given a date. It says access for Google AI Ultra subscribers (via Project Genie) and early-access developers (via the Gemini API and Google AI Studio) is “coming soon.”

How much will it cost? Unknown. Google’s official announcement posts don’t list pricing for any access tier.

Will there be a phone app? Nothing’s confirmed. Google hasn’t announced a mobile app.

What to Do Next

Your one practical step: read the official Google DeepMind post and watch the demo videos with good headphones or speakers. Since Google says every sound in those clips came from Genie 4, that’s the best way to judge the headline feature for yourself right now.

Wrapping Up

Genie 4 is Google DeepMind’s latest AI world model. The big upgrade is sound: ambient noise, music, and characters who talk, all generated inside a world you can steer by typing. It’s impressive on paper, but it’s still a locked research preview with no published price, no release date, and no published benchmarks. Google itself says visual details and object permanence can drift in longer sessions, and that complex physical interactions, real-time audio accuracy, legible text, spatial accuracy, and long-term consistency are still active research areas.

Honestly? It’s an exciting demo, but don’t rearrange your plans around it yet. Wait for real people to get their hands on it before deciding whether it lives up to the trailer.

The post Google announces Genie 4 world model with native audio simulation first appeared on Online Tech Tips.

Here’s the quick answer. On a computer, go to the left sidebar and click More > Manage subscriptions. In the Gmail app on Android or iPhone, tap Menu > Manage subscriptions. Then hit Unsubscribe next to each sender you’re done with. This guide walks through every click. It also covers what to do if you don’t see the feature yet, and when you should hit Report spam instead.

Note that Google is still gradually rolling this feature out, so it may not yet appear in every account. If that’s the case for you, skip ahead to the fallback section below.

What Is Gmail’s Manage Subscriptions Feature?

Manage subscriptions is a page inside Gmail that lists your active email subscriptions, such as newsletters, promo lists and store mailers, so you can unsubscribe from them in one sitting. Think of it as the junk-mail pile on your kitchen counter, sorted for you so you can toss the whole stack at once.

Here’s what it does, according to Google’s Gmail Help page:

• One list of senders: Your subscriptions show up together, and each entry shows how many emails that sender has sent recently.
• Sender-level unsubscribe: Unsubscribing here asks the sender to remove you from all of their active mailing lists.
• A request, not instant relief: Unsubscribing sends a request to the sender rather than blocking them immediately, so you may still see a message or two land before they process it.
• Website fallback: If a sender makes you finish the opt-out on their own site, Gmail offers a Go to website option.
• No extra cost noted: Manage subscriptions is part of the regular Gmail app and website, and Google’s documentation doesn’t mention any separate price or paid tier for it.

It’s most useful for anyone whose Promotions tab has turned into a landfill.

Before You Begin

• A Google/Gmail account you can sign in to
• A desktop browser for the web version, or the Gmail app on your Android phone, iPhone or iPad
• A few minutes to review your sender list (don’t unsubscribe from the bank alerts you actually need!)

Heads-up: Because of that gradual rollout, some accounts won’t have Manage subscriptions yet, and there’s no way to switch it on early. If yours is missing, skip down to “No Manage Subscriptions? Use These Fallbacks.”

Step-by-Step Guide: Bulk Unsubscribe From Emails in Gmail

The steps are nearly the same everywhere. Only the way you reach the page differs, so pick your platform below.

On the Web (Windows, Mac or Chromebook)

There’s nothing to install. It’s a page inside Gmail and works the same in any modern browser.

Step 1: Sign in to Gmail

Open your browser, go to https://mail.google.com, and sign in to the account you want to clean up.

Expected result: Your inbox loads, with the left sidebar showing Inbox, Starred, Sent and so on.

Step 2: Expand the More Section

In the left sidebar, scroll down and click More.

Expected result: The sidebar grows to show extra items, including Manage subscriptions.

Step 3: Open Manage Subscriptions

Click Manage subscriptions.

Expected result: A list of senders opens. Each one shows how many emails it has sent you recently, along with an Unsubscribe button. Senders with more recent activity may appear nearer the top, though Google doesn’t specify an exact sort order.

Step 4: Click Unsubscribe Next to a Sender

Find a sender you don’t want and click Unsubscribe next to it.

Expected result: A confirmation pop-up appears.

Step 5: Confirm (or Choose Another Option)

Depending on the sender, the pop-up offers a few choices:

• Unsubscribe: Confirms the request. Pick this for most legit senders.
• Go to website: Shows up when the sender wants you to finish opting out on their site.
• Block instead: A separate action from unsubscribing; according to Gmail’s blocking documentation, it typically sends future mail from that address to Spam without removing you from the sender’s list.

Expected result: Your request goes to the sender. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 for each sender you want gone. That’s the “bulk” part: you work down one list instead of digging through dozens of emails.

On Android

Step 1: Install and Open the Gmail App

Most Android phones come with Gmail already installed. If yours doesn’t, get it from the Google Play Store. Open it and sign in.

Step 2: Open the Menu

Tap the Menu icon (three horizontal lines) in the top-left corner.

Expected result: The navigation drawer slides out from the left.

Step 3: Tap Manage Subscriptions

Scroll down the drawer and tap Manage subscriptions.

Expected result: The same sender list you’d see on the web, in a phone-friendly layout.

Step 4: Unsubscribe From Each Sender

Tap Unsubscribe next to a sender, then confirm in the pop-up. Repeat for everyone you want off your back.

On iPhone and iPad

Step 1: Install and Open the Gmail App

Download Gmail from the Apple App Store if you don’t have it yet. Open it and sign in. (Apple’s built-in Mail app doesn’t have this page. It’s a Gmail app feature.)

Step 2: Open the Menu

Tap the Menu icon (three lines) in the top-left corner.

Step 3: Tap Manage Subscriptions

Scroll and tap Manage subscriptions.

Expected result: Your sender list opens, showing recent-email counts; senders with more frequent recent activity may appear nearer the top.

Step 4: Unsubscribe From Each Sender

Tap Unsubscribe next to a sender and confirm. Keep going until the list looks reasonable.

What Actually Happens After You Click Unsubscribe

This part trips people up, so here’s the plain-English version based on Google’s help page:

• It isn’t instant. Gmail sends a request to the sender, and Google says the process isn’t immediate, though it doesn’t specify an exact timeframe.
• A stray message might still arrive. While the request is processing, you may still receive a message or two from that sender before they stop.
• It covers all of the sender’s lists. Unsubscribing from Manage subscriptions asks to remove you from every active list from that sender. That’s handy for companies that run five different newsletters.

Configuration: Unsubscribe vs. Block vs. Report Spam

Manage subscriptions has no settings to toggle. The real choice is which button you press. Here’s how they differ:

• Unsubscribe: Asks the sender to stop emailing you. Best for legit companies you recognize.
• Block: A separate action from unsubscribing. Per Gmail’s blocking documentation, it typically sends future mail from that address to Spam without asking the sender to remove you. Use it when you want relief right now, or alongside Unsubscribe while the request processes.
• Report spam: Flags the message so Gmail can filter similar mail. Use this for senders you don’t recognize or don’t trust.

Why does that last one matter? Common security guidance warns that clicking Unsubscribe on an email from an unfamiliar or suspicious sender can signal to that sender that your address is real and active.

It’s like answering a robocall and pressing “1.” So no, it’s not a great idea to click Unsubscribe on every email. If you never signed up and the sender looks sketchy, choose Report spam instead. Google’s sender guidelines explain the rules legitimate bulk senders are expected to follow, and spammers usually don’t play by them.

No Manage Subscriptions? Use These Fallbacks

If you’ve checked More on the web and Menu in the app and the option still isn’t there, the rollout probably hasn’t reached your account yet. Google doesn’t give a schedule, so check back now and then. Meanwhile, these tools work today:

• Per-message Unsubscribe link: Open a newsletter and look for Unsubscribe next to the sender’s name at the top. Click it and confirm. Per Google’s unsubscribe help page, this works one email at a time and may only remove you from that one list.
• Block the sender: Open the email, click the three-dot More icon, and choose Block “[sender]”. Future mail goes to Spam.
• Report spam: Open the email (or tick its checkbox in the inbox) and click Report spam. This is the right move for anything suspicious.
• Gmail filters: On the web, open an email from the sender, click the three-dot More icon, and look for an option like Filter messages like these (exact wording can vary by Gmail version). Then set up a filter to Skip the Inbox (Archive it) or Delete it, and create the filter. This keeps a stubborn sender out of sight without unsubscribing you. You can also type a search like this into the From box of the filter form:

newsletter@example.com

About third-party bulk-unsubscribe tools: Apps and websites exist that scan your inbox and unsubscribe you in bulk. Many of these tools ask for permission to read your Gmail account data in order to work. That’s a lot of trust to hand over, so read the permissions screen carefully before you agree. If you go down that road, a password manager and turning on 2-Step Verification (or adding a hardware security key) are smart ways to keep the account itself locked down.

Tips and Troubleshooting

Problem: “Manage subscriptions” doesn’t show up anywhere

• On the web, make sure you clicked More in the left sidebar. The option is hidden until you expand it.
• On mobile, open Menu and scroll all the way down.
• Update the Gmail app from the Play Store or App Store.
• Still missing? Your account likely hasn’t gotten the rollout yet. Use the fallbacks above.

Problem: I unsubscribed, but emails keep coming

• Give it some time. Google says processing isn’t instant, though it doesn’t specify how long to expect.
• Check your Spam folder, since a stray message or two sometimes lands there while a request is processing.
• If mail keeps arriving after a reasonable wait, block the sender or set up a filter.

Problem: Clicking Unsubscribe sent me to a website

• Some senders require you to finish opting out on their site. Choose Go to website and follow their steps.
• Don’t trust the site? Pick Block instead in the pop-up.

Problem: I unsubscribed from one email, but the company still emails me

• The per-message link may only cover one mailing list.
• Open Manage subscriptions and unsubscribe from that sender there, which targets all their active lists.

Pro tips:

• Start near the top: Senders with more recent activity often appear nearer the top of the list, so reviewing the first several entries can clear out a lot of clutter quickly.
• Double up for speed: Unsubscribe and block a sender you never want to hear from again. You get the request sent plus instant peace and quiet.
• Spare the useful stuff: Shipping updates, bank alerts and school notices may show up in the list. Skip those!

Wrapping Up

Manage subscriptions is probably the most satisfying cleanup tool Gmail has added in years. A few taps clear out senders that would otherwise take an afternoon of scrolling.

Just remember it’s a request, not a force field: processing takes some time, and it’s worth saving Report spam for anything that looks fishy. If your account doesn’t have the feature yet, the per-message link, blocking and filters will hold the line until it arrives.

Resources

• Manage your subscriptions in Gmail (Gmail Help)
• Manage your subscriptions in Gmail, iPhone/iPad version (Gmail Help)
• Unsubscribe from an email (Gmail Help)
• Email sender guidelines (Gmail Help)
• Report spam in Gmail (Gmail Help)
• Block or unblock an email address in Gmail (Gmail Help)

The post How to Bulk Unsubscribe From Emails in Gmail With Manage Subscriptions first appeared on Online Tech Tips.

Here’s the short version. Check the label on the router first. Then pull the saved Wi-Fi password off a phone or computer that’s already connected. Then try the manufacturer’s or internet provider’s app. If that fails, open the router’s login page in a browser. A factory reset comes dead last, and only if everything else fails. This guide walks you through each step on Windows, macOS, iPhone, and Android.

Wi-Fi Password vs. Router Admin Login: What’s the Difference?

Most of the confusion comes from one fact: your router usually has two different passwords. Think of your router like an apartment building. The Wi-Fi password is the front door key that lets people inside. The admin login is the key to the building manager’s office, where all the settings live.

• Wi-Fi password (also called network key or WPA key): What you type on a phone, laptop, or smart speaker to join the network.
• Network name (SSID): The public name of your Wi-Fi, the one that shows up in your list of nearby networks.
• Admin username and password: A separate login that opens the router’s settings page in a browser or app. It is not the same as your Wi-Fi password (unless someone set them to match).
• Router IP address (default gateway): The local address you type into a browser to reach the admin login page.

ASUS spells this out in its own support docs. The router admin login is separate from your Wi-Fi password, and both are separate from any account details from your internet provider (ASUS Support). Getting this straight saves a lot of head-scratching. Typing your Wi-Fi password into the admin page (or the other way around) is one of the most common reasons people think they’re “locked out.”

Why “admin” and “password” Don’t Work Anymore

Years ago, lots of routers shipped with the same login on every single unit. That was convenient for anyone who wanted to poke around your network, which is the problem. These days, many routers do one of two things instead:

• Print a unique password on the label. Each router gets its own Wi-Fi password, and sometimes its own admin login, printed on a sticker.
• Make you create an admin password during setup. Some newer routers have no usable default at all. You (or your installer) picked one the first time the router was set up. TP-Link describes this behavior for its own routers (TP-Link FAQ).

So if a generic “default password list” doesn’t work for you, nothing is broken. Your router simply doesn’t use one, and the steps below matter even more.

Before You Begin

Make sure you have:

• Physical access to your router (or the gateway box your internet provider installed)
• At least one device that is connected to your home Wi-Fi, or has connected before
• The ability to unlock that device (your Windows or Mac login, Face ID, Touch ID, or passcode)
• Any setup card or paperwork from your installer, if you still have it
• About 10–15 minutes

Important: Only use these steps on a network you own or have permission to manage.

Step-by-Step Guide

The steps go from least disruptive to most disruptive. Stop as soon as you find what you need.

Step 1: Check the Label on Your Router

Pick up your router or ISP gateway and look at the bottom, back, or sides. You’re looking for a sticker with lines like:

• SSID or Network Name
• Wi-Fi Password, Network Key, WPA Key, or Wireless Key
• Admin, Management, Login, or Router Password

Many routers also print a web address or IP address for the settings page on this same sticker. Write it down too.

Expected result: You’ll usually find the current Wi-Fi password on the label. An admin login is sometimes printed there too, but on some models you set that password yourself during first-time setup instead (TP-Link FAQ).

If the Wi-Fi password from the label works, great! If it doesn’t, someone probably changed it after setup. Move on to Step 2.

Tip: Snap a photo of the label with your phone. That way you never have to crawl behind the TV stand again.

Step 2: Pull the Saved Wi-Fi Password Off a Connected Device

If one of your devices is connected to your home Wi-Fi right now, it has the password saved. Check that it’s connected to your own network, not a neighbor’s or a guest network with a similar name, since a device can hold an older saved password. Here’s how to see it.

On Windows

These steps use the classic Control Panel. They’ve worked for years, but menu names can shift between Windows versions.

• Click Start, type Control Panel, and open it.
• Click Network and Internet > Network and Sharing Center.
• Next to Connections, click the name of your Wi-Fi network.
• In the status window, click Wireless Properties.
• Open the Security tab.
• Check the Show characters box.

Expected result: The Network security key field shows your Wi-Fi password in plain text.

On macOS

On macOS Sequoia and later, saved Wi-Fi passwords live in the Passwords app (Apple Passwords User Guide).

Menu paths can shift between macOS releases, so if a step looks different on your Mac, check Apple’s support page for your specific version.

• Open the Passwords app.
• Click Wi-Fi in the sidebar.
• Select your network from the list.
• Hold the pointer over the dots next to Password to show it, or click the dots to copy it.
• Enter your Mac’s login password if asked.

Expected result: Your Wi-Fi password appears in the app, and you can copy or view it directly.

On macOS 13 or later, you can also copy the password from System Settings (Apple Support):

• From the Apple menu, choose System Settings.
• Click Network in the sidebar, then click Wi-Fi.
• Scroll down and click Advanced to open the list of known networks.
• Click the More (three dots) button next to your network, then choose Copy Password.
• Paste it where you need it, such as the password field on another device.

Tip: On older macOS versions, you can open Keychain Access, search for your network name, double-click it, and check Show password.

On iPhone or iPad

Apple now keeps saved Wi-Fi passwords in the dedicated Passwords app (Apple Support).

• Open the Passwords app.
• Tap Wi-Fi.
• Tap your network’s name.
• Tap the Password field.
• Unlock with Face ID, Touch ID, or your passcode.

Expected result: The password appears, and you can copy it.

On Android

Android menus vary a lot by phone maker. These steps match the common layout. Samsung and some other brands put Wi-Fi under a differently named menu, such as Connections.

• Open Settings > Network & Internet > Wi-Fi.
• Tap Saved networks.
• Tap your home network.
• Tap Share.
• Confirm with your fingerprint, face, or PIN if asked.

Expected result: A QR code appears. Depending on your phone’s maker and Android version, the password text may also appear under it. If it doesn’t, another phone can scan that QR code to join without typing anything.

Step 3: Check the Manufacturer or ISP App

Here’s something that trips up many people. A lot of mesh Wi-Fi systems and internet-provider gateways have swapped the old browser login page for a phone app. If you set up your router with your phone, there’s a good chance an app is the “real” way in.

• TP-Link routers and Deco mesh: TP-Link’s Tether app manages many of its routers.
• ASUS routers: The ASUS Router app handles setup and settings on supported models (ASUS Support).
• ISP-provided gateways: Many internet providers offer their own app or online account for managing the box they installed. Check your provider’s website or your bill for the official app name.

To use the app:

• Connect your phone to your home Wi-Fi, not cellular data or a guest network.
• Open the app and sign in with the account used during setup.
• Look for a section like Wireless, Wi-Fi Settings, or Network.

Expected result: You see your network name and Wi-Fi password, and you can change settings without the browser login at all.

Step 4: Find Your Router’s IP Address

No app? Then you’ll need the router’s settings page. To get there, you need its local address, which your devices call the default gateway or router address. It usually looks like a string of four numbers separated by dots.

On Windows

• Click Start, type cmd, and open Command Prompt.
• Type this command and press Enter:

ipconfig

• Find the section for your active connection (usually Wireless LAN adapter Wi-Fi or Ethernet adapter).
• Look for the line labeled Default Gateway.

Expected result: A line similar to this (your numbers will differ):

Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.x.x

On macOS

• Open Apple menu > System Settings > Network > Wi-Fi.
• Click Details next to your connected network.
• Open the TCP/IP section and look for Router.

Expected result: The number next to Router is your gateway address.

On iPhone or iPad

• Open Settings > Wi-Fi.
• Tap the (i) next to your connected network.
• Scroll to find Router.

Expected result: The number next to Router is the address you need.

On Android

• Open Settings > Network & Internet > Wi-Fi.
• Tap your connected network (or the gear icon next to it).
• Look for Gateway. On some phones it’s tucked under Advanced or Network details.

Expected result: You see the gateway address. If your phone hides it, just use another device.

Step 5: Open the Router Login Page in Your Browser

• On a device connected to your home network, open any browser (Chrome, Edge, Safari, Firefox).
• Type the gateway address from Step 4 into the address bar (not the search box) and press Enter.
• If your router’s label lists a web address, you can try that instead. For example, TP-Link says its routers use tplinkwifi.net or 192.168.0.1 (TP-Link FAQ). That’s TP-Link specific, so don’t assume it works for other brands.

Expected result: You’ll see a login screen. Depending on your router’s model and firmware, it may ask for a username, a password, or both.

Some browsers may also show a “Not secure” warning on this page. That’s related to the router’s local certificate setup, and it doesn’t necessarily mean something’s wrong with your home network.

Step 6: Sign In With the Admin Credentials

Try these in order:

• The admin login printed on the label (Step 1).
• Any admin details on your installer’s paperwork.
• A password you or a family member created during setup. Check your password manager or browser’s saved passwords too.
• For TP-Link and similar routers that ask you to create a password on first setup, check that router’s support page for what the login screen expects (TP-Link FAQ).

Remember: your Wi-Fi password usually won’t work here (unless someone deliberately set them to match).

Expected result: You land on the router’s dashboard, where you can change the Wi-Fi name, password, parental controls, and more.

Step 7 (Last Resort): Factory Reset, Then Lock It Down

If the admin password was changed and nobody remembers it, check your router manufacturer’s support options first, since policies for recovering or resetting that password vary by brand. If they can’t help you get back in, a factory reset is typically the next step. Before you press anything, know what you’re giving up.

A reset usually erases your custom Wi-Fi name, Wi-Fi password, admin login, and any special settings like port forwarding, though exact behavior varies by model and some provider gateways restore settings from your account afterward. Expect every device in your house to need to reconnect.

If your internet provider owns the gateway, call them first. Many providers can reset the password or manage the gateway through their app or your account, though what they can do varies by provider. It’s a lot less painful than a reset.

If you do reset:

• Follow your router maker’s reset instructions exactly, since exact timing and steps vary by brand and model. This commonly means holding a small recessed Reset button for several seconds while the router is powered on, but check your router’s manual or support page to confirm.
• Wait for the router to fully restart.
• Log in using the label credentials or the setup app.
• Immediately set a new, strong admin password.
• Set a new Wi-Fi password, or confirm the label password is what you want to keep.
• Save both passwords in a password manager so you never repeat this.

Expected result: A fresh router you control, with passwords you know.

Configuration: Settings Worth Knowing

Once you’re logged in, these are the settings most people actually care about:

• SSID / Network Name: The name that shows up in Wi-Fi lists. Usually under Wireless or Wi-Fi Settings. Changing it means your devices will need to reconnect.
• Wi-Fi Password / Network Key: The password guests type to join. Same section as the SSID.
• Administrator Password: Usually under System, Administration, or Management. Change this from any default right away.
• Default Gateway / Router IP: Shown on the router’s status page. Jot it down next to your passwords for next time.

Tips and Troubleshooting

Problem: The password on the label doesn’t work

• Someone probably changed it after setup.
• Pull the current password from a connected device (Step 2).
• Or sign in through the manufacturer’s app (Step 3).

Problem: The Wi-Fi password works, but the admin login fails

• These are two separate passwords. Look for a label section marked Admin or Management.
• Check the original paperwork.
• Check the manufacturer’s app, which sometimes handles the admin side separately.

Problem: The login page won’t load

• Make sure you’re on your own home network, not a guest network or a neighbor’s.
• Double-check the gateway address from Step 4 and type it in the address bar, not the search box.
• If you can, plug a laptop straight into the router with a Cat6 Ethernet cable and try again.

Problem: The app can’t find my router

• Switch your phone off cellular data and onto your home Wi-Fi.
• Confirm your exact router model is supported by that app.

Problem: The saved-password option is missing

• Menu paths change between OS versions. On iPhone and current macOS, use the Passwords app rather than older Settings-based instructions.
• Check your phone or computer maker’s support site for the current path.

Problem: My internet provider controls the gateway

• Some ISP gateways limit what subscribers can change.
• Use the provider’s official app or account page, or contact support, instead of trying to force your way in.

Pro tips:

• Use a Password Manager: Store your Wi-Fi and admin passwords together, along with the router’s IP address.
• Share Without Typing: Android’s QR code and iPhone’s nearby Wi-Fi sharing save you from reading long passwords out loud.
• Consider an Upgrade: If your router is ancient and doesn’t support an app, a modern mesh Wi-Fi system can make all of this much easier to manage.

Wrapping Up

Most of the time, the password you need is hiding on a sticker or saved on a phone in your pocket. A factory reset should be the last thing you try, not the first. Honestly, the biggest win here is just understanding that your Wi-Fi password and admin login are two separate things, since that alone clears up most “I’m locked out” moments.

Resources

• Apple Support: If you need help with your Wi-Fi password
• Apple Support: Find and share your Wi-Fi password on iPhone
• TP-Link FAQ: Router login behavior
• TP-Link FAQ: Management web address
• ASUS Support: Router app
• ASUS Support: Admin login vs. Wi-Fi and ISP credentials
• HP Tech Takes: How to find your Wi-Fi password
• HP Tech Takes: How to change router settings

The post How to Find Your Router’s Default Username and Password (Without Resetting It) first appeared on Online Tech Tips.

So, should you upgrade or buy? The short answer: if you own a digital copy and have a Switch 2, grab the free upgrade. It costs nothing in most places, and according to Mojang, your worlds should carry over too.

If you mostly play split-screen with the kids, though, Vibrant Visuals turns off in split-screen. More on that below.

What Happened

Minecraft has run on the original Switch for years. On Switch 2, Minecraft is mostly the same game with a fresh coat of paint. Mojang and Nintendo didn’t release a brand-new game, and the official materials focus on visuals and content rather than gameplay changes. What did change, according to the official sources:

• Vibrant Visuals: This is the big one. Mojang lists directional lighting, volumetric fog (fog that looks thick and layered instead of flat) and dynamic shadows, and Nintendo adds water reflections and shaded forests. Nintendo’s product page calls it Minecraft’s “biggest official visual enhancement.”
• Updated Super Mario Mash-Up Pack: It’s included in every Switch 2 edition. You get a Mario-themed world with Vibrant Visuals enabled, plus 15 music tracks and 40 player skins, according to Mojang and Nintendo.
• World carry-over: Nintendo’s product page says Nintendo Switch worlds can be carried over to the Switch 2 version, and Mojang links a world-migration help article from its announcement, so your castle shouldn’t vanish.
• Free or discounted upgrade: Digital owners of the original Switch version get a time-limited upgrade path, and every owner, physical included, gets a discounted upgrade offer (details below).

What Vibrant Visuals actually changes (and doesn’t)

Think of Vibrant Visuals as moving from a fluorescent-lit office to a room with real windows. The blocks are the same blocks, but light now comes from somewhere. Shadows fall the right way, and water looks like water instead of blue Jell-O.

There are catches, and Nintendo says so on its own product page:

• No Vibrant Visuals in split-screen. If two or more people share one screen, you get the standard look. Nintendo calls this intended behavior, not a bug.
• Not every Marketplace world supports it. Some Minecraft Marketplace content works with Vibrant Visuals, and some doesn’t.

We’re relying on Nintendo’s own product page for the split-screen limitation; we haven’t found independent testing that confirms it beyond what Nintendo states. That split-screen limit matters a lot for families if couch co-op is how your household plays.

Who This Affects

You need a Nintendo Switch 2 console to play the native version. Based on Mojang’s announcement, Vibrant Visuals appears built specifically for Switch 2 hardware, and we found no official confirmation that it’s coming to the original Switch.

Here’s how it breaks down:

• Digital owners on the original Switch: You’re eligible for the upgrade pricing if you have a Switch 2.
• Physical cartridge owners on the original Switch: When you launch Minecraft for Nintendo Switch on a Switch 2 during the offer window, Mojang says you’ll get an in-game message inviting you to upgrade to the digital Ultimate Collection at a discount. Check the offer in your region before you pay.
• New buyers: Pick from digital Standard, Deluxe, or Ultimate editions, or the physical Standard Edition.
• Online players: Nintendo’s product page confirms that online multiplayer requires a Nintendo Switch Online membership (sold separately) and that cross-platform play requires a Microsoft Account.

The Details

Upgrade window and pricing

Per the official store page and announcement (retrieved October 27, 2026):

• Window: October 27, 2026 at 9am PT through January 31, 2027 at 9am PT.
• Most regions: Free upgrade from your original Switch digital copy to the Switch 2 digital Standard Edition.
• All owners, including physical: An in-game message offers the digital Ultimate Collection at a discount. Mojang’s upgrade-path support page has the per-edition details, so confirm the exact offer in the eShop before buying.
• Exceptions: Small upgrade fees apply in Japan (100 JPY), Taiwan (30 NTD), and Thailand (25 THB).
• Bigger editions: Digital owners can step up to the Deluxe or Ultimate Collection at a discount instead (Nintendo eShop only).

For new buyers, Nintendo’s US store lists regular prices of $29.99 for the Standard Edition, $39.99 for the Deluxe Collection and $49.99 for the Ultimate Collection (checked October 27, 2026). Prices vary by region.

Editions at a glance

Mojang describes the Deluxe and Ultimate extras as add-ons and Minecoins, and Minecoins bought or included on a Nintendo device stay in the Nintendo ecosystem. Look at the eShop listing for the exact bundle before paying more.

Marketplace and Realms Plus

If you subscribe to Marketplace Pass or Realms Plus, you get access to a rotating library of worlds, skins, and texture packs. Some of that content supports Vibrant Visuals, and some doesn’t. Check the Marketplace listing for specifics before you buy.

How It Stacks Up

Switch 2 vs. the original Switch version

What about performance vs. PlayStation, Xbox, and PC?

We didn’t find an official benchmark here. In the official pages we reviewed, Mojang and Nintendo don’t publish frame-rate, render-distance, or performance numbers comparing the Switch 2 version to the original Switch or to PlayStation, Xbox, or PC.

We also haven’t found a verified independent comparison. So if you’re wondering whether the Switch 2 version is faster or just prettier, the honest answer is that the official story is about looks. Any performance claims you see right now are player anecdotes.

The Reaction

Launch-day chatter is a mix of excitement and side-eye, and it’s split along a familiar line: the official feature list versus how it feels in your hands. In early discussion on r/NintendoSwitch2, including the launch thread, some players report frame-rate drops and input lag with Vibrant Visuals turned on. Others raise split-screen frustrations.

Treat these as unverified player reports, not confirmed facts. Nobody has published controlled testing, and launch-week impressions often shift after a patch or two.

The bigger takeaway is that the split-screen limitation is already shaping the conversation. Mojang is upfront about it, but it means the upgrade feels very different depending on whether you play solo or share the couch.

What to Do Next

If you own Minecraft digitally on the original Switch, open the Nintendo eShop on your Switch 2 and search for Minecraft. Then check whether the upgrade shows as free in your region before you buy anything. Do it before January 31, 2027 at 9am PT, when the window closes. That’s it. No 10-step checklist needed.

Our Take

Verdict: Free upgrade? Take it. Paying full price just for the graphics? Think about how you play.

• Digital owners with a Switch 2: This is an easy yes. It’s free in most regions (a token fee in Japan, Taiwan, and Thailand), your worlds carry over, and you get the Mario pack. There’s very little downside, apart from those unverified early performance complaints, which you can judge for yourself.
• Solo players who care about visuals: Vibrant Visuals is the real reason to care. In our view, the new lighting, shadows, and reflections give Minecraft a noticeably more modern look.
• Families who mostly play split-screen: Temper your expectations. Nintendo says you won’t see Vibrant Visuals in split-screen, so the biggest upgrade skips your most common way to play. You still get the Mario content, and cross-platform play works with a Microsoft Account. If you’re buying a second controller for couch co-op anyway, know that it won’t unlock the new look.
• Physical cartridge owners: Take the discounted Ultimate Collection invite only if you want the extra add-ons and Minecoins, or buy a new Switch 2 edition if you’d rather keep a cartridge. Go Standard unless the eShop listing shows extras you actually want.
• Anyone chasing better performance: Wait. There’s no official performance data yet, and early player reports are mixed.

Wrapping Up

Minecraft on Switch 2 is less “new game” and more “same beloved game, finally with decent lighting,” plus a nice Mario bonus. If you already own it digitally, the free upgrade is a no-brainer before the January 31, 2027 deadline.

Honestly, the split-screen limitation is a bummer, because couch co-op is what Minecraft on Switch does best. Still, for free, it’s hard to complain much.

The post Minecraft now available on Nintendo Switch 2 first appeared on Online Tech Tips.

Here’s the short answer. On Windows 11, PowerShell can rewrite a file’s Created, Modified, and Accessed dates with a one-line command. On a Mac, the Terminal touch command changes the Modified and Accessed dates. Changing the Created date takes Apple’s free SetFile tool. If a photo is sorting in the wrong spot, though, you probably need to fix its Date Taken inside your Photos app instead. That date is a separate thing entirely, and we’ll cover it too.

What Are File Dates, Anyway?

Every file carries a little history about itself. Your computer stores that history as timestamps, which are just the date-and-time labels attached to a file. Here’s what each one means in plain English:

• Date Created: Usually when the file first appeared on this drive. That’s why copying a file often resets it to today, though whether the original is kept depends on the copy tool, the drives’ file systems, and how the file is transferred.
• Date Modified: When the file’s contents were last changed and saved.
• Date Accessed: When the file was last opened or read. On Windows this one isn’t reliable, because Windows can defer or skip updating it (itechguides). Don’t treat it as a true “last opened” record.
• Date Taken (EXIF): A date stored inside a photo by your camera or phone. EXIF is just the name for the bundle of info a camera tucks into each picture. Many photo apps sort by this date rather than the file dates above, though exact behavior can vary by app, library, and import history.

Think of it like a letter. The file dates are the postmarks on the envelope. Date Taken is the date written on the letter itself. Changing one doesn’t change the other.

This guide is about tidying up your own files so they sort correctly. Don’t use timestamp editing to alter records, evidence, or deadlines. That’s not what these tools are for, and it can get you into real trouble.

Before You Begin

• A Windows 11 PC (PowerShell is built in) or a Mac on a current macOS release (Terminal is built in)
• A copy of the file you want to fix. These commands have no undo button.
• The file saved somewhere local, not inside a OneDrive, iCloud Drive, or Google Drive folder (more on why below)
• Mac only: about 10 minutes and an internet connection to install Apple’s free Xcode Command Line Tools, if you need to change the Created date

Tip: If you’re rescuing files from an old backup, copy them to your desktop first. Fix the dates there, then move them back to your external SSD or backup drive. Working on copies is the single best habit for this whole job.

Step-by-Step Guide

On Windows

Step 1: Check the File’s Current Dates

• Open File Explorer and find your file.
• Right-click the file and choose Properties.
• Click the Details tab and scroll down.

You’ll see Date created, Date modified, and Date accessed. Jot these down so you can put them back if needed.

Step 2: Copy the File’s Full Path

Right-click the file and choose Copy as path. This puts the file’s full location (something like C:\Users\You\Pictures\beach.jpg) on your clipboard, wrapped in quotes. You’ll paste it into the commands below.

Step 3: Open PowerShell

Click Start, type PowerShell, and press Enter. You can also press Win + X and choose Terminal. A window with a blinking cursor appears.

Running as administrator usually isn’t required for files in your own user folders, but locked, system, or read-only locations may still need elevated permissions.

Step 4: Change One File’s Dates

Type or paste this command, swapping in your own path and date:

(Get-Item -LiteralPath 'C:\Users\You\Pictures\beach.jpg').CreationTime = [datetime]'2019-07-14 09:30:00'

Here’s what each piece does:

• Get-Item grabs the file so PowerShell can work with it.
• -LiteralPath '...' points to the file. It also tells PowerShell to treat spaces and odd characters in the name as plain text. Use single quotes around the path.
• .CreationTime picks the date to change. Swap it for .LastWriteTime to change Date modified, or .LastAccessTime to change Date accessed.
• = [datetime]'2019-07-14 09:30:00' sets the new date. The format is year-month-day, then hours:minutes:seconds in 24-hour time.

Press Enter. If it worked, PowerShell says nothing at all and simply shows a new prompt. In PowerShell, silence means success. To change all three dates, run the command three times, once with each property name.

Step 5: Confirm the Change

Get-Item -LiteralPath 'C:\Users\You\Pictures\beach.jpg' | Select-Object Name, CreationTime, LastWriteTime, LastAccessTime

This lists the file name and its three dates (powershellfaqs). You should see your new date. You can also reopen Properties > Details to double-check.

Step 6: Change a Whole Folder at Once (Optional)

Got 200 vacation photos that all need the same fix? Try this instead of editing them one by one (squintz.org):

Get-ChildItem -LiteralPath 'C:\Users\You\Desktop\Trip Copy' -File | ForEach-Object { $_.LastWriteTime = [datetime]'2019-07-14 09:30:00' }

• Get-ChildItem ... -File lists every file in that folder and skips subfolders.
• | (the “pipe”) hands that list to the next command.
• ForEach-Object { ... } runs the code in the curly braces once for each file.
• $_ means “the file we’re on right now.”

Every file in the folder gets the same Date modified. Run Step 5’s check on one of them to confirm.

On macOS

Step 1: Check the File’s Current Dates

Select the file in Finder and press Command + I (or right-click and choose Get Info). Under General, you’ll see Created and Modified. Write them down. Get Info doesn’t show the Accessed date; the stat command in Step 4 shows all three, including Accessed.

Step 2: Open Terminal

Press Command + Space, type Terminal, and press Return.

Tip: You don’t need to type long file paths. Type the command, add a space, then drag the file from Finder into the Terminal window. macOS fills in the full path for you.

Step 3: Change the Modified and Accessed Dates with touch

touch -t 201907140930 "/Users/yourname/Desktop/beach.jpg"

• touch is the built-in command that updates file timestamps.
• -t 201907140930 is the new date written as YYYYMMDDhhmm. This example is July 14, 2019, at 9:30 a.m. You can add seconds at the end with a period, like 201907140930.15.
• The quoted path is your file. Keep the quotes if the name has spaces.

On macOS, touch -t sets both the Accessed and Modified dates unless you limit it (see the macOS touch reference, or run man touch). Add -m to change only Modified, or -a to change only Accessed.

Here’s the catch that most guides skip. touch can’t push the Created date forward or set it to anything you choose. It can, however, drag Created backward. If your new date is earlier than the file’s current Created date, macOS moves Created back to match (publicspace.net). Sometimes that’s handy. Sometimes it’s a surprise.

Step 4: Confirm with stat

stat -f "created %SB modified %Sm accessed %Sa" "/Users/yourname/Desktop/beach.jpg"

Terminal prints one line with all three dates, so you can check your work without leaving the window.

Step 5: Install the Xcode Command Line Tools (Only If Needed)

To set the Created date to a specific value, you need SetFile. Type SetFile and press Return. If you see command not found, install Apple’s free tools:

xcode-select --install

A pop-up window appears. Click Install, accept the license, and wait for it to finish. This is a free download from Apple, not a third-party app (picklog).

Step 6: Change the Created Date with SetFile

SetFile -d "07/14/2019 09:30:00" "/Users/yourname/Desktop/beach.jpg"

• -d means “set the creation date.”
• “07/14/2019 09:30:00” uses the US format MM/DD/YYYY HH:MM:SS. Always include the time. Leaving it off can produce wrong results.
• Swap -d for -m to set the Modified date the same way.

Run the stat command from Step 4 again, or reopen Get Info, to confirm the new Created date.

Apple has deprecated SetFile (run man SetFile to see Apple’s deprecation note; SS64 has a command reference), so a future Xcode or Command Line Tools release may drop it. If SetFile is missing after you install the tools, it may have been removed in your version, and the touch trick that pulls Created backward (Step 3) is the remaining built-in option.

Prefer Clicking Over Typing?

On Mac, publicspace.net (the developer behind the Mac file-date explainers cited here) makes a point-and-click app called A Better Finder Attributes. It shows date fields in a regular window instead of Terminal. Check its current version, price, and features on the developer’s own site before you download, and only get it from there.

For Windows, the built-in point-and-click option is limited to photos: File Explorer’s Properties > Details tab can edit Date taken for many JPEGs (see below), but it can’t edit Created or Modified. We haven’t vetted a third-party Windows date editor we’re comfortable recommending, so PowerShell is the safest way to change those dates.

Fixing a Photo’s “Date Taken”

If your Photos app still sorts a picture in the wrong place after you change its file dates, this is why. Photo apps read the Date Taken stored inside the image, not the file’s Created or Modified date. Fix that date in the app itself.

On Windows

Right-click the photo and choose Properties > Details. Look under Origin for Date taken. For many JPEG photos, you can click that value to edit it, then click Apply. If the field won’t let you edit it, that file type doesn’t support editing there.

On macOS

Open the photo in the Photos app and select it. Then look for Adjust Date and Time, which is usually in the Image menu (its menu location has moved between macOS versions). Enter the correct date and click Adjust.

Keep in mind that Photos stores this edit in its own library database, not in the original image file. The adjustment stays there until you export a copy.

When you export, Photos can write the adjusted date into the exported JPEG or HEIC file’s metadata, but only if you choose export options that carry metadata along, such as exporting an edited (not “unmodified original”) version with metadata included. If you export the unmodified original, or export without those metadata options, the exported file’s EXIF date may still show the original, unedited value.

Configuration: Which Setting Changes What

Tips and Troubleshooting

Problem: PowerShell won’t change the date, or nothing seems to happen

• The file may be marked read-only. Run (Get-Item -LiteralPath 'C:\path\file.jpg').IsReadOnly = $false.
• Then run your date command again.

Problem: PowerShell shows an error or edits the wrong file

• Use the full path, including the folder location, instead of only the file name.
• Wrap the path in single quotes and keep -LiteralPath in the command.

Problem: The time I set doesn’t match File Explorer

• PowerShell has UTC versions of each date, such as CreationTimeUtc. UTC is a worldwide standard time that ignores your time zone.
• Add CreationTimeUtc to your Select-Object check to see which version matches what Explorer shows.

Problem: Terminal says “SetFile: command not found”

• Run xcode-select --install and finish the installer.
• Quit and reopen Terminal, then try again.

Problem: Changing the Modified date on my Mac also changed the Created date

• That’s touch pulling Created backward. Next time, save the original first with stat -f "%SB" "your-file".
• After using touch, put the original Created date back with SetFile -d.

Problem: My fixed date changed back after syncing or copying

• Cloud sync services such as OneDrive, iCloud Drive, and Google Drive can sometimes re-stamp file dates during upload or download, though behavior varies by service, settings, and platform. Plain copying can reset the Created date too, regardless of cloud sync.
• Fix dates on a local copy, confirm they look right, then move the file into the synced folder. Even then, some sync apps may still shift dates, so check again afterward.

Will this break anything? Changing timestamps on your own files doesn’t change their contents, but it can change how other software treats them, including sorting, search indexing, backups, sync, and duplicate finders.

That said, some backup, sync, or indexing tools that watch for “recently changed” files may react to the new timestamp by skipping, re-copying, or re-scanning it. This is for organizing your own files, not for rewriting history on official documents.

Keep a Before-and-After Note: Paste the output of the Select-Object or stat check into a text file before you change anything. It’s your homemade undo button.

Wrapping Up

Once you know which date your app actually reads, fixing out-of-order files gets a lot less mysterious. Use PowerShell on Windows, touch and SetFile on Mac, and your Photos app for Date Taken. Honestly, the command line sounds scarier than it is. Most of the real headaches come from cloud sync and copying quietly undoing your fix, so always work on a local copy first.

Resources

• FileSystemInfo.CreationTime (Microsoft Learn)
• FileSystemInfo.LastWriteTime (Microsoft Learn)
• Export photos, videos, slideshows, and memories on Mac (Apple Support)
• touch command reference for macOS (SS64)
• SetFile command reference for macOS (SS64)
• Mac File Dates Explained (publicspace.net)
• Changing File Dates on Mac (publicspace.net)
• How to Change a File Creation Date on Mac (picklog)
• How to Change Date Created and Date Modified on Windows (itechguides)
• How to Change Windows File Dates with PowerShell (squintz.org)
• Get File Modified Date in PowerShell (powershellfaqs)

Sources

• rickyspears.com

The post How to Change File Dates (Created, Modified, Accessed) on Windows and Mac first appeared on Online Tech Tips.

This guide shows you how to transfer a Minecraft world between devices using four methods: three official ones (Bedrock’s Export World .mcworld file, Minecraft Realms, and copying the Java Edition saves folder), plus Chunker, a third-party converter that Microsoft documents for switching between Java and Bedrock. Start with the chooser below. It tells you which method fits your two devices, so you can skip straight to your section.

Quick Answer: Which Method Do You Need?

Find your “from” and “to” devices in this table, then jump to that step.

*Android: Export World only works directly if the world’s File Storage Location is set to External. Worlds saved in Application storage need Realms (Step 3) instead.

The short version is this:

• Do you need Realms just to transfer a world? Usually not. Mojang’s guides point you to Realms when a console is involved, or when you can’t get the world out as a file, such as an Android world kept in Application storage.
• Can you move a Bedrock world to an Xbox or Switch? Yes, through Realms. Mojang’s transfer guides point Xbox, PlayStation, and Nintendo Switch players to Realms rather than .mcworld files, so Realms is the supported route for these consoles.

What Is Minecraft World Transfer, Anyway?

A Minecraft world is just a bundle of save data stored on one device, like a notebook sitting on one desk. Minecraft has two separate editions, and they store that notebook in different ways:

• Bedrock Edition runs on Windows, iOS/iPadOS, Android, Amazon Fire, Xbox, PlayStation, and Nintendo Switch. It isn’t officially available on macOS.
• Java Edition runs on Windows, macOS, and Linux.
• Bedrock worlds you create are stored on the device. They don’t sync through your Microsoft account unless you upload them to a Realm.
• Java worlds are plain folders on your computer that you can copy like any other folder.
• Java and Bedrock world formats don’t match. Copying one straight into the other won’t work without conversion.

This guide helps parents, casual players, and anyone upgrading their gear. It’s not a repair guide, though. If your world is damaged or you need to roll back, see our articles on how to restore a backup of your Minecraft world and how to fix a corrupted Minecraft world.

Before You Begin

• Minecraft is purchased and installed on both devices, in the edition you plan to play
• Both devices are updated to the latest version of Minecraft. Mojang specifically calls this out for Realms transfers
• You’re signed in to the same Microsoft account on both devices (for Realms)
• You have an active Realms subscription, but only if you’re using the Realms method
• You have internet access for Realms, and to download Chunker if you need it
• You have a way to move files: a USB flash drive, external SSD, cloud storage, email, or AirDrop
• You’ve made a backup copy of the world (trust me on this one)
• If you’re moving a world from Android, you’ve checked whether it uses External or Application storage

About Realms pricing: The Realms method needs an active Realms subscription or trial, according to Mojang’s support documentation. When we checked in October 2026, the official Realms page listed Realms for Bedrock Edition at $3.99 USD/month, Realms Plus for Bedrock Edition at $7.99 USD/month, and Realms for Java Edition at $7.99 USD/month. Prices vary by region and change over time, so confirm on that page before you subscribe.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Export Your Bedrock World as a .mcworld File

A .mcworld file is your whole Bedrock world squished into a single file. Think of it as packing a moving box. According to Mojang’s support documentation, this works on Bedrock devices that let you handle files, such as Windows, iPhone/iPad, and Android.

Heads-up: Mojang moves buttons around between updates, so the exact wording and location can differ a bit on your version. Look for Export World in the world’s settings.

On Windows

• Open Minecraft (Bedrock Edition) and click Play.
• On the Worlds tab, click the pencil (Edit) icon next to the world you want to move.
• Scroll through the world settings until you find Export World, then click it.
• Pick a save location, like your Desktop or a USB flash drive, and click Save.

Expected result: A file named something like My World.mcworld appears where you saved it.

On iOS/iPadOS

• Open Minecraft and tap Play.
• Tap the pencil icon next to your world.
• Scroll down in the settings and tap Export World.
• When the share sheet pops up, choose where to send it: Save to Files, iCloud Drive, AirDrop, or a messaging app.

Expected result: The .mcworld file goes wherever you sent it. If you chose Save to Files, it appears in the Files app; with AirDrop or a messaging app, it arrives on the other device or chat instead.

On Android

Before exporting, check your world’s File Storage Location in Settings > Storage, or in the world’s edit screen. According to Minecraft’s help documentation, worlds set to External storage can be exported and copied directly.

Minecraft’s help documentation says worlds set to Application storage aren’t available as separate files for manual transfer. If your world is in Application storage, skip ahead to Realms (Step 3) instead of exporting.

If your world uses External storage, follow these steps:

• Open Minecraft and tap Play.
• Tap the pencil icon next to your world, scroll down, and tap Export World.
• Choose where to save or share the file.

Android is a little unpredictable here. The save screen and default folder depend on your Android version, phone maker, and file manager app. If you can’t find the file afterward, check your Downloads folder, or search your phone’s file manager for .mcworld.

Expected result: For an External-storage world, a .mcworld file lands in the folder or app you picked. If your world is in Application storage, Minecraft’s help documentation says its files aren’t available for manual transfer, so use Realms instead.

Step 2: Import the .mcworld File on Your New Device

Now get the file onto the new device using a cloud drive, email, a USB cable, or AirDrop. Then open it.

On Windows

• Open File Explorer and find the .mcworld file.
• Double-click it.

Expected result: Minecraft launches and shows an import message. When it finishes, your world appears in the Worlds list.

On iOS/iPadOS

• Open the Files app (or wherever you saved the file).
• Tap the .mcworld file. If iOS doesn’t open it in Minecraft automatically, tap the Share icon and pick Minecraft.

Expected result: Minecraft opens, imports the world, and lists it under Worlds.

On Android

• Open your file manager and tap the .mcworld file.
• If you’re asked which app to use, choose Minecraft.

This also varies by phone. Some file managers open it right away, and others need you to pick the app first.

Expected result: Minecraft imports the world and adds it to your Worlds list.

Step 3: Use Realms for Consoles (or Devices Without File Access)

Xbox, PlayStation, and Nintendo Switch don’t offer the file access needed to import or export .mcworld files, based on current Mojang documentation. Realms solves this instead: it’s like a storage locker in the cloud, where you put the world in from one device and take it out on another.

Realms is also the documented path for Android worlds stored in Application storage, since Minecraft’s help documentation says those world files aren’t available for manual transfer. These steps follow Mojang’s official Realms transfer guide. Labels such as Realms Hub, the Worlds (or World) tab, Slots, and the three-dot menu vary between versions and platforms, so look for the closest match on your screen.

Part A: Upload from the old device

• Make sure Minecraft is updated, and that you’re signed in with the Microsoft account that owns the Realm.
• Go to Play > Realms and select your Realm to open the Realms Hub.
• Open the Worlds tab and pick a world slot.
• Choose Edit World and scroll to the bottom.
• On an empty slot, choose Upload World. On an occupied slot, Replace World overwrites what’s there. Then pick your local world.

Expected result: The upload finishes, and your world now lives in that Realm slot.

Warning: Replace World overwrites the world in that slot for good, and anyone playing on it gets kicked off. Double-check which slot you picked. See Mojang’s upload guide for more detail.

Part B: Download on the new device

• On the new device (an Xbox, for example), sign in with the same Microsoft account and update Minecraft.
• Go to Play > Realms, select the Realm, open the Worlds tab, pick the slot, and choose Edit World.
• Scroll down and choose Download World.

Expected result: A local copy appears on the Worlds tab (not the Realms tab), named something like “World name – Copy.” Tap the pencil icon if you want to rename it.

Tip: Once the world is safely downloaded, you can cancel Realms if you only subscribed for the move. Keep it if you want an always-on world for friends to join.

Step 4: Copy Your Java Edition Saves Folder

Java worlds are the easiest to move. Each world is its own folder inside a folder called saves. This follows Mojang’s Java transfer guide.

On Windows

• Close Minecraft.
• Press Win + R, paste the path below, and press Enter:

%appdata%\.minecraft\saves

• Find your world’s folder. It has the same name you see in the game.
• Copy the whole folder, including the folder itself and everything inside it. Save it to a USB flash drive, external SSD, or cloud drive.
• On the new PC, open the same path and paste the folder in.

Expected result: Launch Java Edition, click Singleplayer, and your world appears in the list.

On macOS

• Quit Minecraft.
• In Finder, click Go > Go to Folder (or press Cmd + Shift + G). The Library folder is hidden by default, which is why you need this shortcut.
• Paste this path and press Return:

~/Library/Application Support/minecraft/saves

• Copy the world folder to a USB drive, a cloud drive, or AirDrop it to the new Mac.
• On the new Mac, open the same path and drop the folder in.

Expected result: Open Java Edition, choose Singleplayer, and your world is waiting for you.

On Linux

• Close Minecraft.
• Open your file manager and go to this folder in your home directory (press Ctrl + H to show hidden folders in most file managers):

~/.minecraft/saves

• Copy the world folder to a USB drive or cloud drive, then paste it into the same folder on the new computer.

Expected result: Launch Java Edition, choose Singleplayer, and your world appears in the list. If you use a third-party launcher or a Flatpak/Snap package, the game folder may be elsewhere, so check the launcher’s game directory setting.

Mac players with a Bedrock world: Bedrock doesn’t run on macOS. To keep playing a Bedrock world on a Mac, you’d need to convert it to Java with Chunker (Step 5). Otherwise, play it on another Bedrock device.

Step 5: Convert Between Java and Bedrock with Chunker

So your kid’s friends all play Bedrock, but the world is on Java? Chunker is an independent tool for converting worlds between the two formats. It isn’t an official Mojang product, but Microsoft’s Bedrock developer documentation describes and links to it as a conversion option.

Microsoft’s Chunker overview describes it as a standalone application (plus a command-line version) for Windows, macOS, and Linux that converts your world locally on your computer. Microsoft’s documentation points to the Chunker releases page on GitHub for downloads.

• Back up your original world first. Chunker makes a converted copy, but keep the original anyway.
• Download the Chunker app for your operating system from the releases page and open it.
• On the Upload World screen, choose Choose world folder for a world folder (a Java world from Step 4, or any folder containing level.dat), or Select archive for a .mcworld file from Step 1 or a .zip. You can also drag the folder or file onto the window.
• Pick the edition and version you’re converting to, then click Convert (or open Advanced Mode if you need to adjust settings).
• When the conversion finishes, click Save to write the converted world to your output folder.

Expected result: For Bedrock output, open the converted .mcworld file and Minecraft imports it (Step 2), or upload it with Realms (Step 3). For Java output, copy the converted world folder into your saves folder (Step 4).

A command-line version of Chunker is also available if you want to script or automate conversions.

What might break? According to Microsoft’s Chunker documentation, entities (mobs and other creatures) and player inventories currently can’t be converted between editions, so expect to lose those. Move important items from your inventory into chests before converting, since containers and their items do convert. Some blocks, commands, and add-on content may also not carry over cleanly.

Before deleting your original world, check your inventory, nearby mobs, any commands or redstone contraptions, and add-ons on the converted copy.

Configuration: Settings Worth Knowing

• Java Saves Folder (Windows): %appdata%\.minecraft\saves. Every singleplayer world is a subfolder here.
• Java Saves Folder (macOS): ~/Library/Application Support/minecraft/saves. It’s hidden inside your user Library folder.
• Java Saves Folder (Linux): ~/.minecraft/saves with the default launcher. It’s a hidden folder in your home directory.
• Realm World Slots: The official Realms page says a Realm has three persistent world slots. Use Upload World on an empty slot, and use Replace World only when you really want to overwrite.
• .mcworld Location: You choose this when exporting. It’s a normal file, so you can email it, send it in a chat, or store it in the cloud.
• Android File Storage Location: Found in Settings > Storage or a world’s edit screen. External storage worlds can be exported directly; Application storage worlds need Realms.

Tips and Troubleshooting

Problem: The world doesn’t show up after a Realms transfer

• Confirm the same Microsoft account is signed in on both devices.
• Check that your Realms subscription is active.
• Update Minecraft on both devices and try again.

Problem: You can’t find the downloaded Realms world

• Look on the Worlds tab, not the Realms tab.
• Look for a name ending in “- Copy.”

Problem: A copied Java world isn’t in Singleplayer

• Make sure you copied the whole world folder (the one containing level.dat).
• Check that it sits directly inside saves, not inside an extra folder.
• If it’s zipped, unzip it first.

Problem: You accidentally overwrote a world in Realms

• Next time, use Upload World only on empty slots.
• To recover a lost world, see our guide on how to restore a backup of your Minecraft world.

Problem: Your console won’t export or import a .mcworld file

• That’s expected. Mojang documents Realms, not .mcworld files, as the way to move worlds to and from consoles.
• Use Realms (Step 3) instead.

Problem: Export World doesn’t work on your Android world

• Check whether the world’s File Storage Location is set to Application rather than External.
• If it’s Application storage, use Realms (Step 3) instead of exporting.

Problem: A Java world looks broken on Bedrock (or vice versa)

• Don’t just copy the folder across editions. Convert it with Chunker first.
• Expect some differences after converting, especially entities and inventories, and keep the original world.

• Stay Official: Skip third-party “world sync” apps, especially any that ask for your Microsoft account password. They’re not worth the risk.
• Back Up Before Every Move: It takes two minutes and saves a lot of tears.

Wrapping Up

Moving a Minecraft world feels scary, but it isn’t. Your world never disappears on its own. It just won’t follow you to a new device until you move it. Figure out which two devices you’re dealing with, pick the matching method, and you’re done. In my experience, the .mcworld export and Java folder copy are usually the simplest routes, though that can depend on your device’s file access. Realms is mostly worth paying for if a console is involved or you want to play with friends.

Sources

• Use Realms to Transfer a Bedrock World to Another Device
• Upload a World to a Bedrock Edition Realm
• Transfer a Java Edition World to a New Device
• Minecraft Help Center: Backup & Restore
• Minecraft Realms
• Microsoft Learn: Chunker overview

The post How to Transfer Minecraft Worlds Between Devices: Export, Realms, and Java-to-Bedrock Options first appeared on Online Tech Tips.

Google’s own support page on Gemini model availability (Google support) does not list a single date for AI Plus. It says changes start in October 2026, began taking effect for users without an AI plan on October 9, and that AI Plus subscribers should get an email explaining when the changes apply to them.

Google’s current plan information lists Gemini 3.6 Flash and limited Gemini Omni Flash for AI Plus, while AI Pro includes Gemini 4 Argon plus expanded limits for Gemini 3.1 Pro. Reporting on the subscriber email says Flash and Flash-Lite remain available after manual Pro selection is removed. We found no sign that Google is lowering the AI Plus price to compensate.

So if you got that email, or your Gemini model menu stops offering Pro after November 13, this planned change is the likely reason. Google says AI Plus dates are set per account, so access can vary during the rollout. Your options are pretty simple: stay on AI Plus and live with Flash, upgrade to Google AI Pro or AI Ultra to get Pro-model selection back, or cancel and try another AI service. Below we cover what changed, who it hits, and how to pick.

What Happened

Here’s the short version of what’s been reported:

• Pro-model selection is leaving AI Plus: The subscriber email reported by 9to5Google says that from November 13, 2026, selecting Pro models will be limited to “Google AI Pro subscribers and above,” in both the Gemini app and AI Mode in Google Search. Google’s plan information lists Gemini 3.6 Flash and limited Gemini Omni Flash for AI Plus, and Gemini 4 Argon plus expanded limits for 3.1 Pro on AI Pro.
• Flash stays: Google’s plan pages list Flash model access (Gemini 3.6 Flash and limited Gemini Omni Flash) for AI Plus, and reporting on the subscriber email says Flash and Flash-Lite remain available. Google positions these models for speed and everyday use.
• Existing Pro chats aren’t deleted: According to the reported email, chats that used a Pro model stay available, but you’ll continue them with a different model.
• The free tier changed first: Google’s support page says the model changes began taking effect for users without an AI plan on October 9. Google’s support page says free accounts now default to Auto, which sends most prompts to Flash-Lite and may route prompts that need deeper reasoning to Flash or Pro. With smart model selection turned off, free chats use Flash-Lite for every response.
• No price cut: When we checked on October 27, 2026, Google’s Gemini subscriptions page listed Google AI Plus at $4.99/month in the U.S. with 400 GB of storage, while the Google One plans page listed a “Google AI Plus (2 TB)” option at $9.99/month. Pricing and bundled storage can vary by region and account, so check your own Google One billing page for what you pay. We found no Google statement about lowering the price to offset the lost Pro access.

How firm is the November 13 date? Google’s support page (Google support) confirms the broader October 2026 model changes and says AI Plus subscribers will be told their date by email, but the page itself doesn’t name November 13. That date comes from the email text subscribers shared, and at least one AI Plus user reported still seeing Pro options in mid-October without having received the email.

So treat November 13 as the date in Google’s email to subscribers, and check your own inbox and model menu. There’s also a Google Gemini Help Community thread titled “Losing access to Pro models” where users discuss the change firsthand.

The community thread also suggests Google made the change to manage computing costs. That’s plausible, since Pro models are heavier to run than Flash, but Google’s support documentation doesn’t state a reason for the change. The computing-cost explanation comes only from a community discussion, not a Google statement, so treat it as a guess, not a confirmed reason.

Who This Affects

This lands differently depending on which Gemini plan you’re on. Think of it like a coffee shop that used to put the good beans in its medium cup and now saves them for the large.

• Google AI Plus subscribers: You’re the most affected. If you picked AI Plus to choose Gemini Pro manually (for longer writing, coding help, or research questions), manual selection of Pro models is going away, while existing Pro conversations remain accessible under a different model. The date in the subscriber emails reported so far is November 13, 2026.
• Gemini free tier users: Since October 9, free accounts default to Auto, which mostly uses Flash-Lite, according to Google’s support page. Answers can vary for many reasons, but this routing change is one documented difference.
• Google AI Pro and AI Ultra subscribers: The reported email keeps Pro-model selection for “Google AI Pro subscribers and above,” and Google’s plan information lists Gemini 4 Argon plus expanded limits for 3.1 Pro on AI Pro. These sources only address Pro-model selection, so they don’t settle whether anything else changes for these tiers.
• People shopping for an AI plan: This is a good reminder that what a plan includes can change after you sign up.

The Details

Here’s how the tiers line up, based on Google’s plans and support pages plus the reported subscriber email. Prices are the U.S. monthly prices Google’s Gemini subscriptions page and Google One plans page showed when we checked on October 27, 2026; the two pages list different AI Plus storage options. Check Google’s plans page for current pricing in your region.

So what’s the real difference between Flash and Pro? Here’s a plain-English way to look at it:

• Flash and Flash-Lite are positioned by Google for speed and everyday use. In our view, they may be sufficient for tasks such as drafting emails, summarizing articles, and quick everyday questions.
• Pro models are Google’s more capable tier, aimed at harder reasoning. In our view, that matters most for multi-step problems, tricky code, and detailed research.

If you mostly ask Gemini “What’s a good substitute for buttermilk?”, you may never notice. If you were feeding it a 40-page report and asking for analysis, you’ll likely notice once the change reaches your account.

How It Stacks Up

The obvious question: if Google’s entry-level AI plan no longer lets you pick its top-shelf model, how do the rivals compare? Two paid alternatives this article compares are ChatGPT Plus from OpenAI and Claude Pro from Anthropic.

While frontier releases such as Google’s Gemini 4 Argon and OpenAI’s GPT-6.1 Sol compete at the top of the market, headline model announcements don’t measure what an entry-level subscription plan actually unlocks day to day. We also didn’t identify a controlled, side-by-side test of post-change AI Plus (Flash-only) against ChatGPT Plus or Claude Pro, so we aren’t printing a scoreboard or ranking the providers here.

The more useful comparison is simpler. Benchmarks rank top models, but what you get depends on which model your plan actually unlocks. After November 13, AI Plus won’t let you pick Google’s Pro models. So the real question for an AI Plus subscriber isn’t “Is Gemini better than Claude?” It’s “Is Flash enough for what I do?”

The Reaction

Reaction is still forming. The change first surfaced when an AI Plus subscriber shared Google’s email on Reddit, and a few other subscribers said they got the same message, according to 9to5Google. Users are also discussing it in the Google Help Community thread about losing Pro access.

What to Do Next

Before you change anything, check what your account actually has today, and look for Google’s email about the change. Your own account is the best way to see what your plan currently includes.

• Go to Google’s plans page while signed in to your Google account. Depending on your account, country and subscription state, it should show your current plan and the tiers Google offers you.
• Open gemini.google.com and look at the model selection menu. It can indicate which model options your account offers right now, though temporary limits or rollout state may affect what appears; compare that with your plan and subscriber email, since exact labels and rollout state can vary by account.

Then pick the path that fits how you use Gemini:

• Stay on AI Plus: Makes sense if you mostly use Gemini for quick stuff like summaries, emails, and simple questions, the kind of everyday work Google positions Flash for.
• Upgrade to Google AI Pro or AI Ultra: This is the in-house path to get Gemini Pro back. It’s the easiest switch if you’re already deep in Google’s ecosystem. Google’s pages listed AI Pro at $19.99/month and AI Ultra from $99.99/month in the U.S. when we checked; confirm the price shown for your account first.
• Cancel and try something else: If you feel the plan no longer delivers what you paid for, you can cancel through the subscription channel shown on your account (such as Google One subscription settings), after checking your renewal date, refund terms, and whether access continues through the end of your current billing period. ChatGPT Plus and Claude Pro are two common alternatives, among others. Since manual access to a stronger reasoning model is what AI Plus is losing, first check whether each plan lets you pick that model yourself or routes prompts automatically. Then compare usage limits, price and cancellation terms against the tasks you actually use AI for.

Wondering about a refund or credit? We found no Google statement on either. You can contact Google support and ask about billing adjustments, but don’t count on one.

Our Take

This is a quiet downgrade, and it’s a lousy one for anyone who signed up for AI Plus because of Gemini Pro. Paying the same monthly price without manual access to Gemini Pro feels a lot like the shrinking candy bar at the same price. It’s not the end of the world, but it’s hard to call it good news.

Who should care: AI Plus subscribers who use Gemini for heavier work like coding, long documents, research, and complex writing. If manual Pro selection was your main reason to pay, that ends on the date in your email, and you should make a decision rather than keep paying on autopilot.

Who can shrug it off: Casual users and anyone on AI Pro or AI Ultra. If Flash handles your everyday questions, AI Plus may still be fine for you.

What we’d do: Check your model menu first. If Pro is gone after November 13 and you miss it, compare AI Pro with ChatGPT Plus and Claude Pro on price, included models, usage limits and cancellation terms before upgrading. Choose based on the tasks you actually do, not leaderboard headlines. And since Google hasn’t publicly explained why it’s making the change, recheck your plan page after November 13 in case details shift again.

Wrapping Up

If you’re on Google AI Plus, Google says each subscriber’s date comes by email. The subscriber emails reported so far give November 13, 2026 as the date Pro-model selection ends, though Google says your own email sets your date, and the free tier already moved to Flash-Lite-first routing on October 9. Check what your account includes now, then decide whether Flash is enough or whether it’s time to upgrade or switch. Our honest opinion: AI Plus is becoming a “light assistant” plan, so price it that way in your head.

Sources

• Google support: Gemini model availability
• Google One plans page
• 9to5Google on the AI Plus email
• Android Authority on usage limits
• Google Gemini subscriptions page

The post Google is removing Gemini Pro from AI Plus subscriptions first appeared on Online Tech Tips.

This guide is a calm, in-order fix ladder based on Nintendo’s own support pages, which we check and update periodically. Start at the top and stop once things work. Every step is labeled Switch (original Switch with Joy-Con) or Switch 2 (Switch 2 with Joy-Con 2). The menus differ a little between the two, so the labels matter. One thing to know up front: Joy-Con 2 only works with Nintendo Switch 2. If you’re trying to pair a Joy-Con 2 with an original Switch, it won’t work.

Quick Diagnosis: Which Console and What Are the Lights Doing?

Before you change anything, check two things:

• Which console do you have? Switch 2 owners use Joy-Con 2. Original Switch owners use the original Joy-Con.
• What are the player LEDs doing? These are the small lights on the controller. According to Nintendo’s Switch 2 pairing FAQ, the patterns mean:
  • Unlit: Not connected
  • Flashing in sequence: Trying to connect
  • Solid: Connected
  • Other flashing patterns: Nintendo’s pairing guide doesn’t define every flashing variation. Charging the controller is a quick, harmless thing to rule out, but it isn’t a confirmed diagnosis.

Nintendo describes these lights by pattern, not by color, so watch what they’re doing rather than what color they are.

Then try these basics in order:

• SYNC reset: Press the controller’s SYNC button once, then press any other button.
• Charge it: A low battery is one possible reason for unexpected flashing, so charging is a quick thing to rule out.
• Restart the console: A quick restart is a simple, low-risk step to try before changing any settings.
• Update: Install the latest system update, then update the controllers.

Common Issues and Solutions

Problem: Joy-Con or Joy-Con 2 Suddenly Goes Dark Mid-Game

Symptoms:

• The player LEDs turn off
• The controller stops responding, even though it was working a minute ago

Why it happens: This usually means the wireless connection between the controller and the console was cut, though other faults can look the same.

Fix (Switch and Switch 2):

• Press the SYNC button on the controller once. Just a quick tap, don’t hold it.
• Press any other button, such as A, B, X, Y, or a direction.

Verify: The player LEDs should light up solid again, and the controller should respond in-game.

So what does the SYNC button actually do? A single short press disconnects the controller. Pressing another button afterward makes it reconnect. Think of it like hanging up a bad phone call and dialing back.

Tip: Look for the small button labeled SYNC on the controller. A quick press is all you need.

Problem: Joy-Con 2 Isn’t Recognized When Attached to the Switch 2

Symptoms:

• You slide the Joy-Con 2 onto the console and nothing happens
• The console doesn’t register the controller as attached

Why it happens: Nintendo points to outdated system software, an attachment problem, or stale pairing data.

Fix (Switch 2), from Nintendo’s Joy-Con 2 not-recognized article:

• Install the latest system update. If you’re already up to date, restart the console.
• Detach both Joy-Con 2 controllers.
• Press SYNC once on each controller, then press any other button.
• Reattach both controllers.
• Still not working? Detach and reattach a few more times.
• If you have a spare Joy-Con 2, try that one.

Verify: If the spare works, the original controller needs an inspection. If no Joy-Con 2 works, the console and the controllers may both need an inspection by Nintendo.

Problem: Switch 2 Controllers Disconnect Only When Docked

Symptoms:

• Everything works fine in handheld mode
• Controllers drop out over and over once the Switch 2 is in the dock and playing on the TV

Why it happens: Most disconnect guides miss this one. Nintendo’s Switch 2 pairing support page links docked controller problems to the dock’s HDMI cable, and Nintendo’s dock troubleshooting guidance also calls out the power supply. Two things to look at: an HDMI cable that isn’t Ultra High Speed, and an AC adapter that can’t supply enough power.

Nintendo requires an Ultra High Speed HDMI cable for the Switch 2 dock, and the HDMI cable that shipped with the original Nintendo Switch does not meet that standard. Don’t use the old Switch cable with the Switch 2 dock, even if it looks like it fits — use the Ultra High Speed HDMI cable included with Switch 2, or a certified Ultra High Speed HDMI replacement.

Fix (Switch 2):

• Check the HDMI cable running from the dock to your TV. Use the Ultra High Speed HDMI cable that came with your Switch 2, or a certified replacement. Do not use the HDMI cable that came with the original Switch.
• Make sure the dock is powered by the Nintendo Switch 2 AC adapter (model NGN-01), which Nintendo recommends for the dock, or another adapter that can supply at least 54 W. An old phone charger or the original Switch’s adapter isn’t enough for docked use.
• Isolate the dock: test the controllers in TV mode while docked, then take the console out of the dock and test again in handheld or tabletop mode. If the dropouts only happen while docked, the dock setup is the likely culprit; if they happen everywhere, go back to the pairing and battery fixes above.
• Put the console back in the dock and test again. If you swapped the HDMI cable, reconnect the controller afterward via Controllers > Change Grip/Order, as Nintendo advises.

Verify: Play docked for a while. The player LEDs should stay solid without dropping out.

Tip: If you upgraded from an original Switch, it’s easy to leave the old dock cable plugged into the TV (guilty as charged, probably). Check that first, and swap in the Switch 2 cable if you find the old one still connected.

Problem: A Controller Won’t Pair at All, Even After SYNC

Symptoms:

• Pressing SYNC does nothing useful
• The lights flash in sequence but never go solid

Why it happens: Stale pairing data and radio interference from something nearby are two possibilities worth ruling out.

Fix (Switch 2):

• Go to System Settings > Controllers & Accessories > Disconnect Controllers (the exact menu wording may shift slightly depending on your system software version).
• Confirm to clear the stored pairing data.
• Re-pair by attaching the controller to the console. Or, from the HOME Menu, you may be able to go to Controllers > Change Grip/Order and press SYNC on the controller — follow whatever on-screen prompt appears there.

Fix (Switch): The same idea applies. On the original Switch, Nintendo’s pairing-information guide gives the path as System Settings > Controllers and Sensors > Disconnect Controllers.

Heads-up: Based on Nintendo’s own description of this menu option, Disconnect Controllers may clear pairing data for all your wireless controllers, not just the one giving you trouble. It’s safest to assume you’ll need to re-pair every controller afterward, including Pro Controllers.

Also check your surroundings:

• Move the console: Other wireless devices and large metal objects nearby can sometimes interfere with the signal. Try moving the console to a different spot and see if that changes anything.

Verify: Once re-paired, the LEDs should go solid and stay that way.

Problem: The Controller’s Lights Keep Flashing

Symptoms: The LEDs blink instead of staying solid, and the controller drops out on and off.

Why it happens: Nintendo’s official pairing guide defines sequential flashing (trying to connect) and solid lights (connected), but doesn’t spell out every other flashing pattern. A low battery is one possible cause and the fastest thing to rule out, but it isn’t the only explanation, so if charging doesn’t help, re-pair the controller.

Fix (Switch and Switch 2): Attach the Joy-Con to the console while the console is charging (docked or plugged into its AC adapter), or use a Joy-Con charging accessory, then test again. Docking alone charges the console, not a detached Joy-Con.

Verify: Once it has some charge, the LEDs should stay solid while you play.

Problem: Controller Acts Weird After an Update or Long Storage

Symptoms: Random dropouts on a new controller or one that sat in a drawer for months.

Why it happens: Controllers have their own firmware (the controller’s built-in software), and Nintendo provides a separate Update Controllers option for it, so run that step in addition to the system update.

Fix (Switch 2):

• Go to System Settings > System > System Update and install anything available.
• Turn on the affected controller and make sure it’s connected.
• Look for an Update Controllers option in the controllers section of System Settings (Nintendo’s support pages reference this under Controllers & Accessories) and run it.
• Wait. If you have several controllers connected, the console updates them one at a time.

Fix (Switch): Same steps. On the original Switch, the controllers section of System Settings is called Controllers and Sensors; look for Update Controllers there.

Verify: Play a session and see whether the dropouts stop.

Quick Reference: What You’re Seeing and What It Means

For these pairing and disconnect issues, your main clues are the player LEDs and when the drop happens.

Switch vs. Switch 2: Where Things Differ

On Nintendo Switch 2

• Uses Joy-Con 2 only. Original Joy-Con aren’t covered by these Joy-Con 2 steps.
• Controller settings are generally found under System Settings > Controllers & Accessories, though exact wording can shift between system software versions.
• Docked disconnects? Check the Ultra High Speed HDMI cable and the AC adapter first — the original Switch’s HDMI cable is not rated Ultra High Speed and shouldn’t be used with the Switch 2 dock.

On the Original Nintendo Switch

• Uses original Joy-Con. Joy-Con 2 won’t work here.
• The controller settings section is called Controllers and Sensors (per Nintendo’s original-Switch support guide).
• SYNC reset, Change Grip/Order, Disconnect Controllers, and Update Controllers are all available, but each does something different: SYNC disconnects and reconnects one controller, Disconnect Controllers clears pairing for all wireless controllers, and Update Controllers installs controller firmware.

Settings to Check

• System Update: System Settings > System > System Update. Do this before anything else.
• Update Controllers: Look for this under the controllers section of System Settings. Run it with the controller turned on and connected.
• Disconnect Controllers: Same section. This option may unpair all your wireless controllers at once, so use it only when you’re ready to re-pair everything.
• Change Grip/Order: HOME Menu > Controllers > Change Grip/Order. This screen is generally used to manage and re-pair controllers; follow whatever SYNC prompt appears on screen.

When to Contact Nintendo

It’s time to stop troubleshooting and submit a repair request through Nintendo Support when:

• You’ve worked through every step above and the controller still won’t connect or keeps dropping
• A spare controller works fine but yours doesn’t. Send in the controller.
• No controller works when attached or wireless. The console may need an inspection too.

Before you contact Nintendo, jot down which console you have, which controller is affected, what the LEDs do, and which fixes you already tried. That list is your best “debug info” and will speed things along. In the meantime, a Pro Controller makes a handy temporary backup. It pairs once and doesn’t involve any sliding on and off the console.

Is the problem drift (moving on its own) rather than disconnecting? That’s a different issue, and our Joy-Con drift guide covers it.

Prevention Tips

• Keep everything updated: Run System Update and Update Controllers every so often.
• Don’t let batteries run flat: A low battery is one possible cause of dropouts that can look like a pairing problem.
• Keep the old cable out of the new dock (Switch 2): The original Switch’s HDMI cable isn’t Ultra High Speed, so don’t plug it into the Switch 2 dock — label your Switch 2 cable so it doesn’t get swapped by mistake.
• Use enough power: Stick with the Switch 2 AC adapter (NGN-01) for the dock, or an adapter rated at least 54 W.
• Give it room to breathe: Keep some distance between the console and other wireless electronics or large metal objects, which can occasionally interfere with the signal.

Wrapping Up

Many Joy-Con dropouts can be cleared with a quick SYNC reset, a charge, or an update you haven’t installed yet. Work down the ladder in order and stop as soon as things work. Honestly, the Switch 2 HDMI cable mixup is the sneakiest cause here, so if your problems only happen on the TV, check the cable before anything else — and remember the original Switch cable simply won’t cut it in the Switch 2 dock.

Regularly reviewed against Nintendo’s support documentation | Applies to Joy-Con on Nintendo Switch and Joy-Con 2 on Nintendo Switch 2

The post Joy-Con Keeps Disconnecting? How to Fix Joy-Con and Joy-Con 2 Pairing Problems on Switch and Switch 2 first appeared on Online Tech Tips.

These details come from Snapchat’s own help page and can change, so treat the numbers below as a snapshot rather than a permanent guarantee. Either way, Snapchat doesn’t list a separate fee for downloading your own Memories.

This walkthrough shows how to tell whether you’re near or over the limit and how to batch-export Snaps to your iPhone or Android camera roll. You’ll also see how to request a full Memories download through Snapchat’s My Data tool on a computer. Most people have plenty of room, but it’s nice to have your own copy no matter what.

What Is Snapchat Memories (and Its Storage Limit)?

Snapchat Memories is the built-in storage area inside the Snapchat app where your saved Snaps, photos, and videos live. Think of it like a shoebox of photos that Snapchat keeps in its closet for you. That’s handy, but it’s still Snapchat’s closet.

Here’s what Snapchat’s own Memories storage help page said when we checked it (retrieved October 26, 2026), plus Snap’s September 2025 announcement of the change. Because storage allowances and paid-tier details can change without notice, confirm the current numbers on that page or in the app before making a decision based on them.

• Free storage: “You have up to 5GB of complimentary Snapchat Memories storage.” Snap’s announcement adds that for the vast majority of users, who have less than 5GB of Memories, nothing changes.
• Checking usage: The help page says to open Settings (the gear icon in My Account), scroll to the My App section, select Memories, and check the Cloud Storage section. If you have more than 5GB saved, you’ll also see a notice in the Memories section of the app.
• Paid tiers: At the time of our check, the page listed a 100GB Memories-only plan (US price $1.99/month or $20/year), about 250GB with Snapchat+ (Lens+ includes the same storage), and 5TB with Snapchat+ Platinum. Prices vary by market and can change, so check the in-app screen for your current options.
• Going over: Snapchat says it “will not automatically delete your Memories because you do not upgrade,” and its announcement promised 12 months of temporary storage for Memories over the 5GB limit. Starting January 2027, Memories more than one year old that fall outside your oldest 5GB are archived. Archived Memories stay on Snapchat as thumbnails, but opening, editing, or sharing them requires an upgrade, or you can download them.

One thing that trips people up is that Memories holds what you save to it. It isn’t an automatic backup of everything in your phone’s camera roll.

For a complete backup of every photo and video on your phone, you’ll still want a separate service like iCloud Photos or Google Photos.

Before You Begin

Make sure you have:

• A Snapchat account (a free one is fine, since no step here needs a paid plan)
• The Snapchat app installed and signed in on your iPhone or Android phone
• A computer with a web browser for the My Data export (strongly recommended for big downloads)
• Access to the email address on your Snapchat account
• Enough free space for your download, on your phone, computer, or an external SSD

Heads up: Skip any third-party “Snapchat downloader” app or website that asks for your Snapchat username and password. You can save your Memories with Snapchat’s own tools, so there’s no reason to hand your login to anyone else.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Check Your Memories Storage in Settings

Snapchat’s help page gives an exact place to check how much Memories storage you’re using.

• Open Snapchat and make sure you’re signed in to the right account.
• Tap your profile icon to open My Account, then tap the gear icon to open Settings.
• Scroll to the My App section and select Memories.
• Check the Cloud Storage section for your usage.
• Optionally, swipe up from the Camera screen to open Memories. If you have more than 5GB saved, Snapchat also shows a storage notice there.

Expected result: The Cloud Storage section shows how much Memories storage you’re using. Use that, not the presence or absence of a banner, to decide whether you’re near the 5GB limit.

Tip: The storage notice in Memories is aimed at accounts over 5GB. If you don’t see it, confirm your number in Settings > Memories > Cloud Storage rather than assuming you’re under the limit.

Step 2: Look at Your Plan Options (Optional)

If the storage notice is showing in Memories, tap it (it may read Upgrade Storage) to see which plans are available and what they cost in your country. You don’t have to buy anything. This is just window shopping so you can compare prices later.

Expected result: A screen listing paid storage plans (such as the Memories-only plan, Snapchat+, or Platinum) with your local pricing. Back out without subscribing if you only wanted to look.

Step 3: Batch-Export Memories to Your Camera Roll

Want to grab a bunch of Snaps right now? You can select several Memories at once and save them to your phone’s photo library. Snapchat explains this in How do I download a Snap from Memories?

On iPhone (iOS)

• Swipe up from the Camera to open Memories.
• Tap the select icon at the top of Memories to turn on multi-select mode.
• Tap each Snap you want. A checkmark appears on every selected item.
• Tap Export.
• Choose the option to save to your camera roll (your phone’s photo library).

Expected result: The selected Snaps download to your iPhone and show up in the Photos app.

On Android

• Swipe up from the Camera to open Memories.
• Tap the select icon at the top of the screen.
• Tap each Snap you want to save.
• Tap Export.
• Choose the option to save to your camera roll or gallery.

Expected result: The Snaps save to your phone. You’ll find them in your Gallery or Google Photos app.

Tip: Snapchat doesn’t publish a specific maximum number of Snaps you can export in one batch, and that detail can change with app updates. Still, picking hundreds of videos at once is like stuffing a grocery bag until it rips. Export in smaller batches (say, a month at a time) so a hiccup doesn’t make you start over, and check Snapchat’s current help article if you want to confirm any batch limit before a large export.

This method is great for a handful of favorites. If you’ve got years of Snaps, though, Step 4 is way less tapping.

Step 4: Open My Data on a Computer

To download all your Memories at once, use Snapchat’s My Data tool, which Snapchat’s support pages don’t list a fee for. You can reach it in the app through Settings > My Data.

Snapchat’s download your data help page covers this process. A computer is the better choice here because the exported file can be huge.

On your computer:

• Open a web browser and go to:

https://accounts.snapchat.com

• Sign in with your Snapchat username and password.
• Click My Data.

Expected result: You’ll see the My Data page with options for what to include in your export.

Step 5: Request a Memories-Only Export

Now tell Snapchat exactly what you want.

• On the My Data page, turn on the Export your Memories toggle.
• Click Request Only Memories. This limits the export to your Memories instead of your whole account history (chats, settings, and so on).
• Check the date range setting. Snapchat’s help page says you can choose a date range “or toggle this off if you want to receive all data.” A narrow range leaves older or newer Memories out of the export.
• Confirm the email address where Snapchat should notify you.
• Click Submit.

Expected result: Snapchat confirms your request. Per its My Data help page, “We strive to deliver data within 7 days, but large downloads can take longer.”

Warning: A narrow date range is a common reason people end up with a “missing” chunk of Memories in their export. Double-check it before you hit Submit.

Step 6: Download Your Export from “See Exports”

When your export is ready, you’ll get an email. You can also skip the inbox and check the site directly.

• Go back to accounts.snapchat.com and open My Data.
• Click See exports.
• Find your finished export and click Download.
• Save the ZIP file somewhere you’ll remember, like your Downloads folder or an external hard drive.

Expected result: A ZIP file (a compressed bundle, like a vacuum-sealed bag for files) downloads to your computer.

Tip: Snapchat’s help page doesn’t say how long a finished export stays available under See exports, so download and back up the ZIP soon after it’s ready rather than counting on it staying there.

Step 7: Unzip the File and Open index.html

Here’s the step most guides skip. You can’t browse your Memories from inside the ZIP. You have to extract it first.

• On Windows: Right-click the ZIP file and choose Extract All, then click Extract.
• On macOS: Double-click the ZIP file. Finder unzips it into a new folder.

Next:

• Open the extracted folder.
• Double-click index.html to open it in your web browser. It’s a local page saved on your computer, not a website.
• Click Memories in the left-hand navigation.
• Snapchat says this page lets you download “your individual Memories, or all of them at once.” Use the download-all option to save everything included in your export.

Which method is more complete? The phone export in Step 3 only saves the Memories you select. The My Data export covers every Memory in the date range you chose, but you still need the download option inside index.html to save the actual files.

Expected result: A page in your browser listing your Memories, ready to view and save.

Configuration: The Settings That Actually Matter

You don’t need to fiddle with much, but these three My Data options make a big difference:

• Export your Memories: This toggle decides whether your saved Snaps go into the export at all. It’s off until you turn it on, so don’t forget it!
• Request Only Memories: This skips the rest of your account data. You get a smaller, faster export that’s all photos and videos.
• Date range filter: This controls which time period gets included. Go wide for a full backup, or go narrow if you only want something like last summer’s trip. Just remember that wider ranges take longer to process.

Where to Keep Your Exported Memories

Once you’ve got the files, don’t leave them sitting in your Downloads folder forever (we’ve all been there). Good homes include:

• Your phone’s cloud backup: iCloud Photos or Google Photos, so your Snaps sit right next to the rest of your pictures.
• An external drive: A portable external SSD or a USB-C flash drive gives you an offline copy you fully control.
• Two places at once: Cloud plus a drive is the safest bet. If one fails, you’ve still got the other.

Paying Snapchat vs. Keeping Your Own Copy

These capacities and prices reflect what Snapchat’s help page listed at the time of our last check, so confirm the current figures in-app or on Snapchat’s site before deciding. The key difference is that Snapchat plans are an ongoing subscription.

An export plus a drive you already own (or buy once) costs nothing month to month. Paying is mostly worth it if you really want old Snaps fully usable inside the app.

Tips and Troubleshooting

Problem: The export email never arrives

• Remember that Snapchat says it strives to deliver data within 7 days, and large downloads can take longer.
• Check that the email you confirmed on the request is the right one, and check your spam folder.
• Go to accounts.snapchat.com > My Data > See exports and look there directly.

Problem: The ZIP won’t open or looks empty

• Extract the ZIP first (see Step 7). Don’t try to browse it while it’s still compressed.
• Open index.html in a browser.
• Click Memories in the left navigation.

Problem: Only some Memories showed up

• Your date range probably cut some out.
• Submit a new My Data request with a wider range.
• Expect the bigger request to take longer.

Problem: A specific Snap isn’t in Memories at all

• Only Snaps currently saved in Memories can be exported.
• Snapchat doesn’t document any way to recover a Snap that was never saved or was deleted, so there’s no official fix here.

Problem: Snapchat wants payment to keep using Memories

• Snapchat says it won’t automatically delete your Memories because you don’t upgrade. Starting January 2027, though, Memories more than a year old outside your oldest 5GB are archived, and opening archived items requires a paid plan or a download.
• Run the export: Settings > My Data > Export your Memories > Request Only Memories.
• Decide about a paid plan separately, after your copy is safe.

Problem: Camera roll photos don’t appear in Memories

• This is normal. Memories only holds what you’ve saved to it; it doesn’t automatically back up your camera roll.
• Use iCloud Photos or Google Photos for those.

Pro tips:

• Download before January 2027: If you have more than 5GB of Memories, export now so older Snaps don’t end up archived behind a paywall before you have your own copy.
• Run it on Wi-Fi: Big exports and batch downloads can eat through mobile data fast.
• Keep a home router nearby: A huge ZIP download is way happier over a strong connection. A mesh Wi-Fi system helps if your computer sits far from the router.

Wrapping Up

The Snapchat Memories free storage allowance sounds scary to run into, but you still have options when you reach it. Snapchat says it won’t automatically delete Memories just because you don’t upgrade, but over-limit Memories older than a year get archived starting January 2027. The My Data export lets you keep your own copy either way.

Honestly, everyone should run that export at least once. Snapchat doesn’t list a fee for it, it takes a few minutes of clicking, and then your memories belong to you instead of one app.

Resources

• How do I manage my Memories storage? (Snapchat Support) – free 5GB allowance, Cloud Storage check, plans and archiving rules
• Introducing Memories Storage Plans (Snap Newsroom) – the September 2025 announcement and 12-month temporary storage
• How do I download a Snap from Memories? (Snapchat Support) – multi-select and Export on your phone
• How do I download my data from Snapchat? (Snapchat Support) – My Data export, delivery time and index.html download
• Sending and Exporting Memories (Snapchat Support)

The post Snapchat Memories Storage Limit: How to Check Your Usage and Download Your Memories for Free first appeared on Online Tech Tips.

It replaces the older GPT-5.6 Terra, and OpenAI pitches it as faster, cheaper to run, and better at understanding images, using a computer for you, and writing like a human. The details are in the official announcement and the ChatGPT release notes.

Here’s the short answer to the question most people are asking. If you mostly use regular ChatGPT Chat, nothing changes for you today. Terra doesn’t appear in standard Chat at all.

It only shows up in the Work and Codex experiences, and only on paid plans. If you do use Work or Codex, you don’t need to install anything yourself. The model will appear in your model list once the rollout reaches your account.

What Happened

OpenAI calls GPT-6.1 Terra an upgrade to GPT-5.6 Terra, and it focuses on three things:

• Visual reasoning: Terra can read images, screenshots, and technical drawings. OpenAI’s example is turning an architectural drawing into a description of a 3D model. For you, that means you can ask about a floor plan or a product spec sheet as well as about text.
• Computer use: Terra can click through desktop apps and websites to finish multistep jobs inside ChatGPT Work. Think filling out a form, or moving data from one program to another. It’s like handing the mouse to a very patient intern (who still needs supervision).
• More natural writing: OpenAI says drafts read more clearly and sound less robotic. That’s good news if your AI-written emails currently sound like they were translated from a toaster manual.

A note on dates: OpenAI’s announcement page carries an earlier April 9, 2026 date along with an “updated October 26, 2026” label. Which date the page originally went up isn’t clear. The ChatGPT release notes point to October 26, 2026 as the rollout date, and 9to5Mac’s coverage is dated the same day.

Who this affects

OpenAI’s ChatGPT Work and Codex help page lays out where Terra is available:

• Where: Only in ChatGPT Work and Codex. It is not in regular ChatGPT Chat conversations.
• Plans: Plus, Pro, Business, Enterprise, and Edu. The free tier isn’t on the list, so free users won’t see Terra.
• Rollout: It arrives gradually. Availability depends on your plan, region, and workspace settings. On Business and Enterprise plans, workspace settings may also affect whether you see it, though the cited release notes don’t spell out the specific admin controls for Terra.
• Developers: It’s in the API as gpt-6.1-terra, through the v1/responses and v1/chat/completions endpoints, according to the API changelog.
• One exception: Terra isn’t available with UAE inference residency. That restriction is about where OpenAI’s servers handle the request, not where you’re sitting.

The details

According to OpenAI’s release notes, some Plus and Pro users may find GPT-6.1 Terra at “Medium” effort set as a new default in Power presets. Your model picker may look different depending on your account, so don’t panic if yours doesn’t match someone else’s screenshot. Where it’s supported, Terra also offers a Standard vs. Fast mode toggle, which trades depth for speed.

For developers, OpenAI’s listed API pricing for gpt-6.1-terra is:

Source: OpenAI announcement and API changelog, as of October 26, 2026.

A token is a small chunk of text, roughly a piece of a word. Picture it as the meter running in a taxi: the more you send in and get back, the more you pay. We found no OpenAI announcement of a ChatGPT subscription price change tied to this release, though the cited release notes focus on availability rather than pricing.

How It Stacks Up

An important caveat before the numbers: every figure below comes from OpenAI. These are the company’s own reported results. Independent testers haven’t verified them yet, so treat them like a car’s advertised fuel economy. They’re useful, but they aren’t gospel.

Here’s what those numbers mean in plain English:

• Cheaper: For API users, running the same job should cost about half as much. OpenAI’s release notes say the plan’s overall usage limit for Work or Codex is unchanged; OpenAI hasn’t raised the allowance itself.

What OpenAI does say is that Terra costs less to run per task, so that same unchanged allowance may stretch to cover more work than it did with GPT-5.6 Terra, meaning you might hit the limit less often. Your monthly bill doesn’t shrink.

• Faster: On some computer-use chores, you’d spend less time watching the AI click around. OpenAI hasn’t published the exact multiplier or the specific task set behind that claim. (If you plan to watch it work, a second monitor genuinely helps here.)
• Fewer wrong answers: OpenAI built a test of prompts designed to trip models up. On that test, the lowest reported error rate was measured at the highest effort setting, while the higher comparison figures used a lower effort setting, so the numbers aren’t a strict apples-to-apples comparison. It’s a meaningful claim, but keep in mind it’s an internal test that only covers the kinds of prompts OpenAI chose.

OpenAI also published results on named benchmarks, including Agents’ Last Exam (long multistep “agent” tasks), MMMU-Pro (understanding images alongside text), OSWorld (operating a computer), and Terminal-Bench and Terminal-Bench-Science (command-line and technical work). We could independently confirm MMMU-Pro as a named benchmark; the others are listed as reported by OpenAI. Read these as OpenAI’s own scorecards for the three areas it’s selling: seeing, doing, and coding.

Terra vs. Sol vs. Astra

OpenAI’s naming is confusing (it feels like reading a sci-fi novel’s table of contents), so here’s how the company positions each one, based on its models help page:

• GPT-6.1 Terra: The fast, lower-cost option for visual tasks, computer use, and everyday writing.
• GPT-6.1 Sol: Priced higher than Terra, according to OpenAI’s models help page, though that page doesn’t fully detail which tasks OpenAI recommends it for. It’s also available in Work and Codex.
• GPT-6 Astra: Referenced by OpenAI as a comparison point for its most demanding, longest-running tasks. OpenAI’s help page doesn’t fully confirm its exact role or its relationship to GPT-6 Pro.

What about Claude and Gemini?

OpenAI used Anthropic’s Claude Opus 5.5 as a comparison point in some results, such as Agents’ Last Exam and Terminal-Bench-Science. It claims Terra uses fewer tokens and costs less. That’s still a vendor comparing itself to a rival, though, and we couldn’t find an independent head-to-head test as of publication.

A third-party benchmark tracker we checked (TensorFeed) didn’t list a Terra score yet. We found no sourced Terra-vs-Gemini numbers at all. So the honest answer to “Is it better than Claude or Gemini?” is that nobody outside OpenAI has shown that yet.

The Reaction

Public reaction to the actual release is still forming. When we checked, we couldn’t find any Hacker News discussion or verifiable posts about the launch that we could cite. We’ll update this story once real-world feedback shows up.

Our Take

Casual ChatGPT users: You can skip this one. Terra doesn’t touch regular Chat. If you’re on the free plan, you can’t get it anyway. There’s no reason to upgrade your plan just for Terra.

Plus and Pro subscribers who already use Work or Codex: This is a quiet but real win, assuming OpenAI’s numbers hold up. Getting more done before you hit usage limits matters more day to day than a benchmark chart does. You don’t need to do anything. Terra will show up in your model list, and some of you may find it already set as a default.

Small businesses and developers running lots of automation: This group has the most reason to care. Think invoice processing, form filling, or document extraction. When you pay per task, cutting the API price in half adds up fast. OpenAI is clearly aiming Terra at that “boring but expensive” back-office work.

People who need the absolute best reasoning: OpenAI’s help materials still point toward Sol or Astra for the toughest jobs, though the exact criteria for choosing between them aren’t fully spelled out. Terra is the reliable commuter car, not the race car.

Our opinion: the “50% cheaper” figure is the most important number here. It’s also the easiest one to check yourself, since it’s simply OpenAI’s posted price. The speed and accuracy claims look promising, but they’re self-reported, so we’d wait for independent tests before rebuilding a business workflow around them.

What to Do Next

Here’s one practical step. If you’re on an eligible plan and use ChatGPT Work or Codex, open the model picker in Work or Codex and look for GPT-6.1 Terra. If you don’t see it yet, the rollout probably hasn’t reached your account. On Business or Enterprise plans, check with your workspace admin too. Don’t bother looking for it in regular Chat, because it won’t be there.

Wrapping Up

GPT-6.1 Terra is a solid upgrade aimed at people who use ChatGPT to get work done, beyond casual chat. If that’s you, your plan’s usage allowance stays the same, but Terra’s lower per-task cost may let that allowance go further, alongside hopefully faster, cleaner results.

If Work or Codex isn’t your thing, carry on as usual. We’ll be watching for independent tests to see whether Terra lives up to OpenAI’s own report card.

Sources

• models help page
• TensorFeed

The post OpenAI releases GPT-6.1 Terra model upgrade with improved speed and lower cost first appeared on Online Tech Tips.

Is Instagram trying to replace YouTube? The reporting frames this as a direct challenge to YouTube and TikTok, not a replacement. Instagram Features long-form video started as a limited creator test, not a public launch. Features had already been in testing with some creators in Brazil and is now expanding to a small test in the US, according to Instagram spokesperson Megan Buckley, as cited by The Verge. The Hollywood Reporter says Instagram plans to expand that US test to tens of thousands of creators.

Instagram hasn’t published the eligibility criteria for who gets access. Instagram also hasn’t said how, or whether, creators will get paid. If you open Instagram today and don’t see anything new, nothing is broken; you just aren’t in the test.

What Happened

Here’s what’s been reported as of October 26, 2026. The details below come from Instagram’s announcement video and spokesperson comments, as covered by The Verge, Bloomberg, The Hollywood Reporter, Variety, and TheNextWeb.

What Exactly Is Instagram ‘Features’?

Features is a new video format for content that doesn’t fit Instagram’s usual short, vertical Reels. Think of Reels as the snack aisle and Features as the sit-down dinner. According to The Verge, the format targets things like:

• Podcasts: Full episodes rather than 30-second highlight clips
• Interviews: Long conversations that lose their flow when chopped up
• Comedy specials: Sets that need room to build
• Vlogs: Day-in-the-life videos that run longer than a Reel

The big change is shape and length. Features are horizontal (widescreen, like a TV or YouTube video) instead of the tall, vertical format Instagram is known for.

(And yes, “Features” is a slightly confusing name. Try searching “Instagram new features” and see how many results you get about everything except this.)

How Long Can These Videos Be?

The Hollywood Reporter, Variety, and TheNextWeb all report videos up to 90 minutes. Variety describes Instagram as testing different video length limits, including up to 90 minutes, so treat that as a tested upper limit rather than a final spec. If that limit holds, it would cover many full podcast episodes.

How Do Linked Reels Work With Features?

This is the clever part. Instagram is also testing linked Reels. A creator posts a short, vertical Reel that connects viewers straight to the matching full-length Feature. Variety’s breakdown says up to eight clips can point to one long video.

Say a podcaster has a 70-minute episode. They cut a punchy 30-second clip as a Reel. Someone scrolling sees the clip, gets hooked, and jumps right into the full episode without leaving Instagram. Reels become the movie trailer, and Features become the movie.

That matters because creators today often post a clip and then say “full episode on YouTube, link in bio.” Linked Reels aim to keep that whole journey inside Instagram.

What Is ‘Series’?

Instagram is also testing Series, a dedicated home for episodic Reels on a creator’s profile. Variety reports it has been in testing since spring 2026 with select creators in the US, India and Mexico, and is expanding to more countries through the end of 2026. If a creator posts a multi-part story or a recurring segment, viewers might be able to follow it in order. It’s a bit like a playlist with a “next episode” mindset.

Live Video Discovery

Instagram is also working on discovery for Live videos. Variety reports that Lives will soon show up beyond a creator’s existing followers, including in the Reels tab, with discoverability improvements being tested in Indonesia and Brazil. That would help live streams find new audiences.

Is This Related to Instagram’s TV App?

Yes. According to The Verge, Instagram’s TV app launched late last year as a Reels-focused pilot on Amazon Fire TV devices in the US, then expanded to Google TV and Samsung TVs. Variety reports it is now available on Apple TV in the US, with livestream support coming “soon.”

Instagram is positioning long, widescreen video for big screens, even though some viewers will still watch on mobile. Getting Instagram onto an Apple TV 4K, a Fire TV Stick, or a Google TV streamer is how Instagram gets into the living room, where YouTube is already very comfortable.

Who This Affects

Here’s the short version of who this touches right now, and who it doesn’t.

• Selected creators in the US and Brazil: Posting access is currently limited to creators included in the test. Instagram describes the US group as “a small test,” with plans to expand to tens of thousands of US creators, according to The Hollywood Reporter, and the format had already been tested with some creators in Brazil. Instagram has not published broader eligibility rules.
• Everyday Instagram users: You might start seeing Features or linked Reels from test creators, but posting access is currently limited to creators included in the test. Instagram has not published broader eligibility rules, so it’s unclear when or whether that will change.
• Podcasters: This is the group Instagram seems most interested in. A full episode posted natively on Instagram is a different deal than clips that point to YouTube or Spotify.
• Apple TV owners in the US: You’re getting access to Instagram’s TV app, which other streaming platforms already had.
• Everyone outside the US and Brazil: The reported Features tests cover the US and Brazil, though Series is in testing in India and Mexico. The Apple TV expansion is also reported as US-only.

Details: What’s Confirmed vs. What Isn’t

Here’s where things stand as of October 26, 2026, based on the reporting.

Will Creators Get Paid for Features Content?

Not through a YouTube-style revenue share, at least for now. Variety’s headline says Instagram is still not paying creators a share of ad revenue, and Instagram hasn’t announced revenue-sharing terms or payout rules for Features.

That’s not the same as no money at all. According to The Hollywood Reporter, Lyons said Instagram is working on “a few different deals” with early Features creators, and existing ad deals will carry over into the videos.

Variety also reports that Instagram says it is exploring future ways for creators to earn money from brands, fans, and Instagram itself, including performance-based incentives. None of that has been finalized, and it’s not clear when or whether it will apply to Features specifically.

That’s a big deal. Monetization is the main reason long-form creators stay on YouTube. Until Instagram publishes official terms, don’t assume Features will earn you anything beyond reach and exposure.

How It Stacks Up

Instagram isn’t hiding its target here. Bloomberg frames the move as part of an escalating rivalry with TikTok and YouTube. The Verge describes Features as an attempt to pull long-form viewing, and the creators who make it, away from YouTube.

The research doesn’t include comparable published numbers (like upload limits or payout rates) for each platform. So here’s a qualitative comparison based only on what’s been reported:

Is This a Direct Challenge to YouTube?

Yes, that’s how the reporting frames it. But “challenge” and “replace” aren’t the same thing.

YouTube still has the things that keep long-form creators loyal: an established monetization system and years of habit from viewers who search it like a TV guide. Instagram’s advantage is a different one. Its audience is already there, scrolling Reels every day. Linked Reels try to turn that scrolling into watch time on longer videos.

TikTok is in the picture too, but more loosely. Bloomberg ties Instagram’s broader video strategy to TikTok’s growth, while most of the Features coverage focuses on the YouTube comparison. The Series test, which groups short Reels into episodes, looks like Instagram trying to cover both flanks at once.

The Reaction

Reaction to the Features test is still forming. The clearest early signal is from the creators Instagram recruited: The Hollywood Reporter names podcast host and Skims co-founder Emma Grede and creator Monet McMichael among the early testers.

What Readers Can Do Now

For most readers, the one practical step is checking whether the Instagram TV app is available on your device. For the small group of test creators, keeping the app updated is sensible, but it doesn’t guarantee access, since Instagram may enable the test server-side without requiring an update.

On iOS

• Open the App Store and update Instagram to the latest version. Updating keeps you current, but it won’t by itself grant access to the test.
• Keep posting as usual. The reporting we reviewed doesn’t describe a way to request access.

On Android

• Open the Google Play Store and update Instagram.
• As with iOS, availability is limited to selected test creators, and Instagram may enable the test server-side rather than through an app update.

On the Web

Current reporting focuses on mobile testing and doesn’t confirm whether Features works on Instagram’s website, so web availability is unconfirmed either way. Instagram.com is still useful for keeping an eye on your profile and any announcements in the meantime.

On Your TV

If you want to watch more Instagram video on a big screen, the TV app is the part of this news you can act on. It’s available on Fire TV, Google TV and Samsung TVs, and now on Apple TV in the US. Check your TV’s app store for Instagram.

For podcasters and creators: Don’t tear up your YouTube strategy, and keep publishing where you already earn money. If you’re in the test, treat Features as a reach experiment, not a revenue source, and use linked Reels to see whether short clips drive people to full episodes. Most creators already shooting horizontal video for YouTube can likely start with the setup they have.

Our Take

Who should care: Podcasters and long-form creators who already get decent reach on Reels. Linked Reels could solve a real headache, the “full episode on YouTube, link in bio” dance that loses viewers at every step. Keeping the clip and the full episode in one app is a smart idea, and Instagram’s daily audience is a real advantage.

Who should switch: Nobody, yet. The test is still limited, eligibility rules haven’t been published, and there’s no ad-revenue share for Features, though Instagram says it’s exploring future earning options and is working on deals with some early creators. Asking creators to move long videos to a platform without a general revenue share is a tough sell while YouTube has one. Until Instagram publishes monetization terms and a rollout timeline, this is worth watching, not betting on.

Who can ignore it for now: Everyday viewers outside the confirmed test markets, and anyone who just uses Instagram for photos and friends. The one exception is US Apple TV owners, who get the TV app now.

Is Instagram trying to replace YouTube? It’s trying to take a bite out of it. Whether that bite gets bigger depends almost entirely on whether creators get paid.

Wrapping Up

Instagram’s Features test brings horizontal videos of up to 90 minutes and linked Reels to a small group of creators, alongside the TV app’s arrival on Apple TV in the US. It’s still a test with no confirmed payouts or timeline, so keep your current strategy.

Honestly? The idea is strong, and linked Reels are the most interesting piece. But long-form creators follow the money, and right now there isn’t any here.

The post Instagram announces push into longform horizontal video with new ‘Features’ first appeared on Online Tech Tips.

This guide covers the US version of HBO Max. The service was called just “Max” for a while before returning to the HBO Max name in 2025, so older guides and app screenshots may still say Max.

Here’s the short answer. You need the HBO Max mobile app on an iPhone, iPad, iPod touch, Android phone or tablet, or Amazon Fire tablet. You also need a Standard or Premium plan. Find a title, tap the Download icon, and you’re set. Downloads don’t work on computers, smart TVs, game consoles, or streaming boxes, and the Basic with Ads plan doesn’t include them (HBO Max Help Center).

Plan names can differ outside the US — some regions use Platinum instead of Premium, for example — so if you’re not in the US, check your local HBO Max Help Center for the exact names and limits that apply to you. Below, you’ll get the full walkthrough for iOS and Android, plus real fixes for when downloads misbehave.

What Is HBO Max Offline Viewing?

HBO Max offline viewing lets you save select movies and episodes to your phone or tablet so they play later without Wi-Fi or cellular data. Think of it like packing snacks for a road trip. You grab what you need while you’re still at the store (on Wi-Fi), and then you’re covered when there’s nothing around for miles.

• Download icon on title pages: Eligible movies and episodes show a Download icon beside their description.
• Pick your language first: Setting your audio and subtitle options in the player before you download is a reasonable precaution, though HBO Max’s help center doesn’t spell out exactly how these settings carry over to the downloaded file.
• Progress and cancel controls: The icon changes while a download runs, and you can tap it to cancel.
• Per-plan limits: Standard and Premium each cap how many downloads you can have across all your devices.
• Device management: You can review which phones and tablets are using your download allowance.

Keep in mind that downloads aren’t permanent. According to the HBO Max download help page, unwatched downloads expire 30 days after downloading, or sooner if the show or movie leaves HBO Max. Once you start watching a download, you have 48 hours to finish it before it expires.

You can renew an expired download, but only with an internet connection and only where the title is still available. If you’re downloading for a trip that’s still weeks away, plan around these limits rather than downloading everything the moment you think of it.

This feature is a lifesaver for travelers, commuters who want to save mobile data, and parents with a long car ride ahead.

Before You Begin

Run through this checklist first. It saves a lot of “why isn’t this working?” moments later.

• A Standard or Premium HBO Max plan (Basic with Ads doesn’t support downloads)
• A supported device: iPhone, iPad, iPod touch, most Android phones and tablets, or an Amazon Fire tablet
• The HBO Max app installed and kept up to date
• An internet connection to start the download (Wi-Fi is your best bet)
• Enough free storage space on your device for the titles you want (downloads are saved to your phone or tablet’s own storage)

Choose your download quality first. In the HBO Max app, go to App Settings > Download Settings > Video Quality and pick Good, Better, or Best. Good is the default and uses the least space, which matters if you’re saving several movies or a whole season.

Not sure which plan you have? Check your subscription in the HBO Max account area. If you’re on Basic with Ads, you’ll need to upgrade to Standard or Premium before any Download icons appear. See HBO Max’s plan features page for what each tier includes. This article reflects the US plan names and lineup; if you’re subscribed through another country’s storefront, your plan names, pricing, and download eligibility may differ, so confirm against your region’s HBO Max Help Center before relying on this guide.

How to Download HBO Max Shows and Movies: Step-by-Step

The steps are nearly identical on iOS and Android. The main differences are where you get the app and a few system settings. Follow the subsection for your device.

On iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch (iOS/iPadOS)

Step 1: Install or Update the HBO Max App

Open the App Store, search for HBO Max, and tap Get (or Update if it’s already installed).

Expected result: The HBO Max icon appears on your Home Screen. The App Store shows Open instead of Update.

Step 2: Sign In

Open the app and sign in with your HBO Max email and password. Choose your profile if prompted.

Expected result: You land on the HBO Max home screen with rows of shows and movies.

Step 3: Find the Movie or Episode You Want

Tap Search or browse to a movie or show. For a series, open the show and scroll to the specific episode.

Expected result: You see the title’s description screen.

Step 4 (Optional): Choose Audio and Subtitles

Many people like to set this before downloading. If you want a different audio language or subtitles, it’s a good idea to choose them in the player first — though HBO Max’s official help center doesn’t explicitly confirm how this choice carries over to the downloaded file.

• Tap Play on the title.
• Tap the Audio and Subtitles icon in the video player.
• Pick your audio language and subtitle track.
• Exit the player and return to the title’s description screen.

Expected result: Your language choices are set for playback, and you’re back on the description screen.

Step 5: Tap the Download Icon

Tap the Download icon beside the movie or episode description.

Expected result: The download starts right away. If you don’t see a Download icon at all, either that title can’t be downloaded or your plan doesn’t include downloads (more on that in troubleshooting).

Step 6: Watch the Progress (or Cancel)

The Download icon changes to show progress while the title saves. Want to stop it? Tap the icon again and select Cancel.

Expected result: The progress indicator fills until the download finishes. If you canceled, it goes back to the regular Download icon.

Step 7: Test It Offline Before You Leave

Don’t wait until the plane door closes to find out something went wrong. Swipe down from the top-right corner of your screen to open Control Center. Tap Airplane Mode on, and make sure Wi-Fi is off. Then open HBO Max and play your downloaded title.

Expected result: Your download plays without any connection. Turn Airplane Mode back off when you’re done testing.

On Android Phones, Android Tablets, and Fire Tablets

Step 1: Install or Update the HBO Max App

On Android, open the Google Play Store. On a Fire tablet, open the Amazon Appstore. Search for HBO Max and tap Install (or Update).

Expected result: The HBO Max app appears in your app drawer or on your Home screen.

Step 2: Sign In

Open HBO Max, sign in with your account, and pick your profile.

Expected result: You see the HBO Max home screen.

Step 3: Find the Movie or Episode You Want

Use Search or browse to the movie or episode.

Expected result: The title’s description screen opens.

Step 4 (Optional): Choose Audio and Subtitles

• Tap Play.
• Tap the Audio and Subtitles icon in the player.
• Choose your language and subtitle options.
• Back out to the title’s description screen.

Expected result: Your preferred audio and subtitles are selected for playback. Setting them before downloading is a reasonable precaution, though HBO Max doesn’t officially document whether this guarantees the downloaded file uses the same settings.

Step 5: Tap the Download Icon

Tap the Download icon beside the title or episode description.

Expected result: The download begins. No icon means the title or your plan isn’t eligible.

Step 6: Watch the Progress (or Cancel)

The icon switches to a progress indicator. To stop the download, tap it again and choose Cancel.

Expected result: The download completes, or it stops and the original Download icon comes back.

Step 7: Test It Offline

Swipe down from the top of the screen to open Quick Settings. Turn on Airplane mode and make sure Wi-Fi is off. Open HBO Max and play the download.

Expected result: The title plays offline.

Download Limits and Device Management

HBO Max limits how many titles you can keep downloaded, and those limits are shared across every phone and tablet signed into your account. According to the US HBO Max Help Center download page:

HBO Max also notes that certain series may be limited to 25 downloaded episodes from the same series. These numbers can change, so double-check the help center before a big trip. (These figures and plan names reflect the US version of HBO Max; other regions, including those using the Platinum tier name, may list different limits.)

Here’s the catch most families run into. If your partner downloaded a bunch of episodes on their phone, those count against your total too. That’s where Manage your devices comes in. HBO Max’s download help page links to its Manage your devices instructions, which list the phones and tablets signed in to your account. That list is separate from your downloads themselves: use it to spot which devices might be holding downloads, then delete unneeded downloads from the Downloads area of the app on each of those devices.

Tips and Troubleshooting

Problem: No Download Icon Appears

• Make sure you’re using a phone or tablet. Computers, smart TVs, game consoles, streaming players, and set-top boxes can’t download at all.
• Check that your plan is Standard or Premium. Basic with Ads doesn’t include downloads.
• If both check out, that specific title just isn’t downloadable. For example, pay-per-view replays can’t be downloaded (HBO Max Help Center).

Problem: “Download Limit Reached” Message

• Open Manage your devices (see HBO Max’s device management instructions).
• Check how many downloads each phone or tablet signed in to your account is holding (HBO Max’s help page suggests checking the number of downloads on all mobile devices).
• On a device you no longer need them on, open Downloads, choose the series name, tap Edit, and tap the X beside episodes to delete them, or tap the Download complete (check mark) icon beside a movie and choose Delete Download. Then try again.

Problem: Can’t Download Another Movie (But You’re Under the Total Limit)

• Remember the separate movie cap. Both plans allow only 30 downloaded movies at once.
• Delete a movie you’ve already watched to free up a slot.
• Download your new movie.

Problem: A Download Has Expired

Downloads aren’t permanent. HBO Max automatically expires an unwatched download about 30 days after you save it, and once you start playing a download, it generally expires within 48 hours after that — whichever limit you hit first. A title can also expire earlier if it’s pulled from the service entirely. An expired download stays in your Downloads list with an expired (clock) icon, and HBO Max says you can renew a download multiple times.

• Open Downloads in the app.
• Find the title with the expired (clock) icon.
• Tap that icon, then choose Renew Download.
• Wait for the title to re-download.

Renewing requires an internet connection, you need to be signed in, and it only works in a country where HBO Max and that title are available. If you know you’re about to lose connectivity — boarding a flight, heading somewhere remote — check your Downloads tab and renew anything that’s expired or close to expiring before you lose your connection, not after.

Problem: Downloads or Renewals Fail While Traveling Abroad

HBO Max’s download help page states: “You can watch shows and movies that you’ve already downloaded in any country or region.” Downloading new titles and renewing expired ones is different: both only work where HBO Max is available and where that specific title is offered. If you’re traveling, finish downloading and renewing at home before you leave.

Problem: A Downloaded Title Won’t Play Offline

This is probably the most frustrating one, since it usually happens right when you have no internet to fix it.

• Check whether it’s expired. If it’s been close to 30 days since you downloaded it, or more than 48 hours since you started watching it, expiration is the likely culprit — see the expired download fix above.
• Renew it while you have a connection. If the title shows the expired (clock) icon, connect to the internet and renew it, since HBO Max says an internet connection is needed to renew a download. Do this before you travel.
• Try the Airplane Mode retry: Close the HBO Max app completely. Turn on Airplane mode, turn off Wi-Fi, then reopen the app and play the title again.

Android Only: Clear the HBO Max App Cache

Think of the app cache as a junk drawer of temporary files. Sometimes something in there goes bad and gums up playback.

• Open the Settings app.
• Search for HBO Max and select it.
• Tap Storage & cache (on some Android versions it’s just Storage).
• Tap Clear cache.
• Reopen HBO Max, sign in, and try downloading again.

Problem: Download Fails or Never Finishes

• Free Up Storage: Delete unused apps, old videos, or photos you’ve already backed up, then restart the download. You can also lower App Settings > Download Settings > Video Quality to Good so each title takes less space.
• Switch to Wi-Fi: Cellular connections can be unreliable for big downloads. Connect to Wi-Fi and try again.
• Update the App: Head to the App Store, Google Play, or Amazon Appstore and install any available HBO Max update.

Pro Tips

• Download the Night Before: Hotel and airport Wi-Fi can be painfully slow. Do your downloads at home where your connection is solid.
• Don’t Download Too Early: Since unwatched downloads expire after about 30 days and watched-but-unfinished ones expire within 48 hours of starting, download close to your trip rather than weeks in advance.
• Check Downloads After a Long Break: If you haven’t opened the app in a while, connect to the internet before your trip to confirm your downloads haven’t expired, and renew any that have.
• Pack the Right Gear: A good pair of noise-canceling headphones makes a flight much more watchable. A portable power bank keeps your phone alive through a movie marathon. On road trips, a car headrest tablet mount keeps the kids’ screen at eye level (and out of their laps).
• Clean Up Shared Downloads: On a family account, agree on who keeps what downloaded. It avoids surprise “limit reached” errors.

Wrapping Up

Once you know the rules (mobile app only, Standard or Premium only, and downloads that expire after 30 days unwatched or 48 hours after you start them), downloading an HBO Max title comes down to finding it and tapping the Download icon. Set your language first, hit Download, and test in Airplane Mode before you leave home.

My honest take: the shared download limit across devices and the expiration clock are the real gotchas for families, so check Manage your devices and renew anything close to expiring before a big trip.

Resources

• HBO Max Help Center – Download Titles to Watch Offline
• HBO Max Help Center – Manage Your Devices
• HBO Max Help Center – Plan Features

The post How to Download Shows and Movies on HBO Max to Watch Offline first appeared on Online Tech Tips.