Color-n-Ice

Undertanding those Orbs

2026-02-20T15:13:00.004-05:00

Good Read

Pearls have held the imagination of jewelry collectors for centuries.

These lustrous orbs were (for millenia) the rare treasures snatched from the ocean's deep.

Cultivation Helps

Today, they still are a luxe organic gemstone, and for millions, their cultivation has added to the thrill of collecting. Nowadays the range of shapes, sizes and colors has resulted in an almost endless array of pearl possibilties for modern collectors.

Knowledge is Key

But how do you sort this all out? Here's a brilliant idea.

Pearls, Their History, Sources, Types and Qualities by author Renee Newman G.G., cuts through the mystery and confusion of these luscious water-borne gems so collectors and retailers alike can make sense of this ever expanding niche.

Why This Book?

The profusely illustrated tome makes understanding its content that much easier. And the logical organization allows readers to quickly access information they've previously read.

So whether you are a consumer, designer, or jewelry retailer, you'll find a wealth of information that makes you a more confident collector or merchant. The book's lexicon enables everyone to speak like a pearl pro in no time.

Worth the read--and worth collecting for your library. It ticks off all the boxes for a very good read.

What Makes Opal . . . Opal?

2024-07-30T12:18:00.003-04:00

Stambolian Peruvian Pink opal and pearl earrings. 1stDibs

Think of opal, and undoubtedly a white opaque cabochon stone with rainbow flecks of color comes to mind. You'd be right of course.

So Much More

But there's so much more to opal, and some of its examples would escape anyone's perception of true opal. So what exactly makes an opal, an opal?

Opal's Curious Composition

First off, it's the material which collectively heaps all opal varieties together. And that is a hydrated silica. It is not organized in a crystal habit like most hard gemstones. Under high magnification, the interior set up of opal looks like a massive array of micro-miniature bubbles.

Water Please

Hydration seems like a funny word to associate with a hard rock but in the case of opal, it's essential to its staying power. Captured inside its amorphous silica cells is indeed water. Some varieties hold up to 21% hydration by weight.

Note This

Opal should be protected against sudden and extreme temperature changes because of its internal structure.

With opal's delicate Mohs scale ranking of 5.5 to 6 you don't want to bang it around much. Opal bracelets and rings must be worn with care.

What's Precious?

Precious Opal displays the enviable rainbow color effects as light passes through the stone. This is called play-of-color.

Rough specimen Precious Opal; Photo Crystalstones.com

What's Common?

But wait--some opal exhibits none of this razzle dazzle. Now what? This opal variety is made from the same hydrated silica but instead of the multi-color light show, it displays limpid tones of pink, mint, or even pastel blue.

Peruvian Blue Opal; Photo Moondrop Creations

While it's called Common Opal, it's anything but common. Harvested from far away mines located in the Andean mountains of Peru, this sumptuous opal is a connoisseur's dream.

You Like Something Different Don't You?

Interested in collecting some 'out of the ordinary' gemstones for your jewel box? This may be a good place to start.

Take a Cab!

2024-07-24T12:24:00.002-04:00

Cabochon gemstones display a unique charm and exude an ultra-luxe vibe when set in jewelry. The above Bulgari piece stands witness to that timeless effect.

What's a Cab, anyway?
A cabochon gem has been smoothly polished on the top viewing portion, and most often has a flat underside for ease in setting.

The allure of cabochons is quite simple. It allows one to view the internal characteristics much better, unhampered by the facets and their reflection as is the more popular cutting style for gemstones. It's also a dramatic way to appreciate the natural color of a jewel.

Ups and Downs

Admiring the stone's color seems to be a spectacular benefit of choosing to shape a stone into a cabochon cut. The downside is that seeing inside the stone may also allow viewing of natural inclusions which are quite obvious. These flaws can be altogether hidden when that same stone is faceted.

But is that really a 'downside'? Earth mined diamonds and gemstones are often recognized by their distinct natural inclusions, so this is an identifying trait to verify the stone's authentic nature as well. All good.

Fancy ---Like Applebee's on a Date Night

High jewelers like the iconic Bulgari brand have featured cabochons in their haute jewelry over the years. But did you know that the cabochon is actually an ancient gemstone shape with examples dating back thousands of years?

This is a lovely example of a 15th century Italian gold ring set with a cabochon emerald.

Walk Like an Egyptian

And going back even centuries earlier, we find an Egyptian era garnet and gold armlet, circa 2nd century.

The timeless appeal of cabochons transcends fads and eras, making this stone cutting style a must-collect for today's gemstone lover.

Wait, There's Something on Your Shoulder

2023-05-20T14:17:00.001-04:00

Mostly, the wearing of brooches has largely gone out of vogue. Except for those rare works of art. They are timeless.

Magnificent 19th - 20th century Artistry

Take this unusual diamond studded dragonfly brooch artfully crafted by early 20th century French designer Leon Coulon. Trained at Boucheron, he first established his Maison in the late 1800s, and soon nabbed awards during the Paris World Fair.

Coulon's enchanting dragonfly brooch embodies his skill and creative mind. It's also convertible and can be worn as a hair clip.

All Shook Up

This imaginative brooch features rose cut diamonds, colored metals and the innovative technique of en tremblant---a fancy French way of saying those wings flutter with the slightest movement of its wearer.

Worth Every Swiss Franc

Sotheby's recently auctioned this precious wearable sculpture under the pre-sale estimate of 2,000-4,000CHF. It actually sold for 17,780 CHF, or $19,760 US.

Somebody understood its worth!

ALMOST UNHEARD OF

2023-05-10T15:13:00.001-04:00

Colored stones are having a moment. Most of these baubles however, are fancy colored diamonds. It's easy to see why--they aren't making them any more. But wait, there's another stunner edging its pretty facets up to the auction block.

Slimmed down to Perfection

A luscious ruby unearthed a year ago as a 101 carat rough, since named Estrela de Fura has gotten the spa treatment to emerge as a scintillating 55.22 carat cushion dazzler. Its moniker meaning Star of Fura gives a nod to the Canadian company Fura Gems who discovered it.

Recent Source of Magnificent Stones

Found in Mozambique, the mammoth rock elicits fawning epithets like "outstanding clarity", "pigeon's blood" and "almost unheard of."

Pundits claim this upcoming auction should prompt African stones to vie for pride of place with Myanmar (Burmese) stones which are regarded as the ne plus ultra of the ruby world.

Paddles Up!

Current chatter estimates this largest ruby to come to auction can fetch over $30M.

Let's see.

Fancy Gets Fancier

2023-05-02T17:01:00.000-04:00

Even high jewelers need nudging once in a while to discover fresh inspiration . Known for their fancy jewels, where do they go to draw upon a fresh wind of creativity? Seems like it's as close as the jewels from an even fancier palace.

Jewels for Royalty

French jewelry maison Boucheron received a Royal Warrant back in the day, proving they were a favored jeweler of the British Monarchy. Between the years 1921 and 1968 they supplied plenty of royal-worthy jewels to family members of the Crown. Prince Edward, Duke of Windsor was their most ardent client, with records showing he purchased more than 75 pieces of jewelry.

If the Queen Loved it . .

Queen Elizabeth wore her aquamarine and diamond Boucheron clips on many public occasions indicating how fond she was of those special accessories.

Looking over their legendary output, we discover that Boucheron was enthralled by their own designs which proved to deliver a breath of fresh air for their latest collections.

The iconic double clip brooch, a fashionable jewelry style in the early 20th century caught the eye of Boucheron's 21st century creative director, Claire Choisne. The symmetry of diamond and gemstone baguettes arranged artfully in geometric designs on identical clips allowed her imagination to soar. It also created the foundation for a decidedly modern take on this classic motif.

2nd time's a charm says, Boucheron. Their new double clip brooch finds modern jewelry lover's sweet spot

So Many Ways to Wear It

Clip brooches offer versatility for its wearer. They can be worn together on one side, or opposite sides of a garment. They can be worn individually, or even becoming a glamorous buckle to a belt. They've also found their way atop a hat . . . . you get the idea.

Named White Moon, this colorless diamond clip brooch is from Boucheron's 2023 "Like a Queen" collection

Everything Old is Fancy Again

So, here we are well into the 21st century, and Boucheron shows that this style still thrills jewelry fans.

For the Love of Beryl

2023-04-29T18:54:00.004-04:00

19-in necklace with 24 beryl beads and an 18K gold clasp.

Beryl is that wonderous natural gemstone with a wide array of colors from which to choose.

While some gemstones are what they are (think peridot---it's always going to be green) members of the beryl family of colored stones can offer just about any color you fancy.

Beryls are often pricey stones, and they are wildly popular with true aficionados.

What's Your Fancy?

What other gemstone varieties give you this many options to choose from? Besides colorless, black and white, you can take your pick from a range of greens and blues, or pinks to peach, and even sunny yellow stones. While rare, this stone does occasionally turn up in lipstick red, called bixbite or simply red beryl.

Nice to See Them All Together

So when a sophisticated beryl necklace turned up for auction recently, true collectors knew they were in for a treat. This understated but very chic necklace consisting of 24 various colored beryl beads is a darling way to showcase the many colors of this stone. It totals 370 carats all told, and features pink morganite, sea blue aquamarine, near colorless goshenite, all of which are members of the same mineral family.

Here's Your Chance

Bonhams Los Angeles will offer this stunner to one very knowledgeable winning bidder at their May 2nd auction. Paddles up!

When Actors Wore the Real Thing

2023-03-29T20:37:00.007-04:00


Marlene Dietrich adjusts her ruby cuff in Hitchcock's "Stage Fright" thriller, 1950

Films today rely on special effects, animation, and AI to accomplish their spectacular appeal. But there was a time in mid-20th century that actors wore their own jaw-dropping jewels in films to thrill the audience. It worked because everyone knew they were getting a peek into the private collections of the stars.

The Star Cuff Makes is Debut---Again

We recall this today as one of these historically important jewels goes to auction. It's got provenance like nobody's bidnez. A fabulous ruby and diamond cuff bracelet that once belonged to Marlene Dietrich will find its way to the auction block this summer (2023) as part of the fabulous jewelry collection of socialite Anne Eisenhower. She was an astute collector acquiring some superb jewels. The cuff bracelet was made in 1937 by jeweler to the stars Louis Arpels.

Referred to as a modernist platinum cuff featuring "an exaggerated asymmetrical loop covered in cushion cut rubies set atop twin buckle-like bands of diamonds."

Upstaging the Film

This large scale bracelet was unique for its time when fine jewelry was more delicately proportioned. But this extravagant piece fell into the category of art. Then it showed up on Marlene Dietrich's wrist in Alfred Hitchcock's 1950's Stage Fright, a film intentionally shot in black and white so the dazzling red gemstones would not upstage the scene.

Anne Eisenhower in her grandparents (President and Mamie Eisenhower) home

A Prominent Collector's Treasure

Later on it came into the possession of renowned collector Anne Eisenhower, the granddaughter of WW2 era US President Ike Eisenhower. Christies Americas chairman Marc Porter said Anne had a keen eye for the finest examples of the jeweler's art.

Her collection is touring the US now and will make international stops before going on sale this June. The pedigreed bracelet's broad estimate ranges between $2.5M to $4.6M.

The Power of Wearing

2023-03-21T16:45:00.002-04:00

An item of jewelry may have merit by the workmanship or by the value of its gemstones.

What's in a Name?

But we should never overlook the power of who wears that item and the provenance it creates. Several dazzling personalities over the years have added their cachet to jewelry-- Elizabeth Taylor, Duchess of Windsor, and of course Princess Diana come to mind.

A recent Sotheby auction of a prominent amethyst and diamond cross pendant worn by Diana proves one doesn't even have to own the piece for the fairy dust to settle over it.

Named The Attallah Cross, this circa 1920s fleuree-style cross motif pendant made by jeweler to royalty Garrard & Co., was an adored item of Princess of Wales. You may recall that is the jeweler who also made her now famous sapphire and diamond engagement ring in 1981.

Just Borrowing it, Please

The cross pendant's bold size makes an unforgettable statement. Diana wore it on several occasions--including to a formal event where her velvet gown matched the famed pendant's regal hue.

There have been many photos published of her wearing it. And Sotheby London ramped up its pre-sale interest by bringing these photos back out again. Small detail that was lost to many royal watchers was that Diana never actually owned this violet jewel. It remained with Garrard and was happily loaned to her when she had occasion to wear it.

The dazzling necklace had a pre-auction estimate of £80,000. But when the flurry of last minute bidding simmered to one remaining person, the hammer came down on £ 163,800, or $197,453. The winner just so happened to be Kim Kardashian, another media savvy icon, for different reasons of course.

She's on a Roll

Turns out, it's not Kim's first rodeo. She is somewhat of a celebrity collectible's collector. A few years back, an historic but simple Cartier tank watch owned by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (appearing in several iconic photos of her) was snapped up by La Kim as well. The 2017 Christie's sale results revealed that Kardashian snapped up the 1960s basic timepiece for $379,500.

When you want something nothing else will do.

Well, This is Cheery

2022-11-23T17:04:00.000-05:00

Jewelry comes for sale at auctions all the time. Some items have never left their original owner's jewel box for decades . . . or centuries.

Items from prominent owners give us a peek into their lives --- at least into their individual tastes, and what was fashionable during their lifetime. Personal adornment helps us see items in context to the era in which it was enjoyed as well as disclosing the craftsmanship, techniques, and gemstones in vogue at the time of its creation.

That's why we love catching a glimpse of the listings from famed auction houses. Eventually many important jewels pass will through those hallowed halls on their way to finding another owner and a new story to unfold in its next life.

Cheery Little Flower Pot

The charming little flower pot brooch sporting (L to R) citrine, almandine garnet, peridot, and pink tourmaline is up for sale at Christie's online auction--with a closing on November 25, 2022.

Fashionable Cutting Style of the 30s

The delicately carved gemstones display exquisite detailing.The technique of carving gemstones rather than faceting them was not exactly new during those days. The 1930s also debuted Cartier's now legendary Tutti Frutti style jewelry which featured sapphire, emerald, and ruby stones carved elegantly into Art Deco pieces.

Single cut diamonds finish the look, with a realistically weathered "terracotta pot" holding the brightly hued flowers.

While it's an absolutely darling piece, it will appeal to only certain buyers.

A Father's Love

The clip back brooch made by Cartier in the late 1930s has a wonderful provenance. This brooch was a gift from the late King George VI for his younger daughter the princess Margaret.

The adorable brooch leans toward a childlike vibe which is understandable given that His Majesty gifted Margaret with the pretty brooch when she was only 8 years old. It's likely that a British royal fan, or one with a yen for jewelry history will pick this up. Perhaps a modern parent will find this irresistible for their offspring.

The Power of Provenance

To the delight of royal watchers, this piece has come around for sale again after it was first sold in 2006 in a rather large sale of the late princess' jewelry. Items from famous owners usually garner far more than their conservative pre-sale estimates. This piece (in the 2006 auction) fared very well against its pre-auction estimate of £3,000-4,000 GBP. It realised £38,400.

Let's see how it goes this time!.

So there was this pink diamond

2022-08-01T21:18:00.018-04:00

In a world of rare color diamonds, pinks (along with red) are about as close as you can get to unicorns. While other naturally occurring color diamonds owe their attractive tints to the introduction of trace elements in its carbon mix, pinks tell another story altogether.

Rare and Rarest

Pink diamonds are indeed pure carbon--yet scientists believe that deformations in their lattice structure cause the eye to see pink--or in extremely rare cases, red. Real Luscious RARE Red.

When the legendary Argyle mine was producing exotic color diamonds for nearly 37 years, every day was Christmas. You never knew what would come up in the next haul. Remarkably a few purple and blue diamonds also came from that unique mine over the years. Those days are gone--Argyle is forever closed. But the recollection and the lure of these remarkable stones will not fade from a collector's memory. Some things will simply never come around in history again, like Australia's famed Argyle mine with its candy colored diamonds.

When you Least Expect it!

So reports of another gigantic pinkie being found is great news while a bit melancholy at the same time. Why, oh why, can't we routinely bring up these stones that excite the imagination with their myriad hues---without human intervention whatsoever?

Miners in a village in Angola move earth on their search for diamonds; Getty

Well, looky here, looky here. The 170 carat Lulo Rose pink diamond came out of Lucapa Diamond Company's Angola mine. The extraordinary size makes it the largest pinkie to be unearthed in the past 300 years. That's pretty exciting. Angola, of all places.

There's a Precedent for That

Well actually, even though pink diamonds are traditionally associated with Argyle mine, they can be discovered anywhere. Take the Williamson Diamond for example. That's another large pink diamond of African origin. Discovered in 1947 in Tanzania as a 54.5 carat FLAWLESS (it is claimed) pink diamond, the stone was given to then Princess Elizabeth on the occasion of her marriage in 1947.

Her Majesty had the diamond cut the following year. The resulting round brilliant stone was 23.6 carats and went to Cartier who fashioned the pink sparkler into a shimmering diamond flower brooch. Its beauty plus its sentimental value have made it one of the Queen's most cherished personal possessions, as evidenced by how often she's seen wearing it.

Gotta Love Pinkies

Some claim Queen Elizabeth's head-turning pink stone was the inspiration behind the Pink Panther Diamond seen in the mid 60's film of the same name. Whatever the real story behind that stone, these rosy rocks have never lost their luster to an adoring world of diamond connoisseurs.

Black as a Diamond

2022-01-18T19:27:00.002-05:00

It's out of this world. Really, this black diamond is clearly from outer space.

Appropriately nicknamed "The Enigma," this hunky black rock heads to Sotheby's London for auction soon. The rare naturally faceted inky hued stone has its origins in outer space, explains Sotheby's experts.

Before they were glamorized in modern jewelry, black diamonds were known as carbonado. There have been some placed in striking jewelry--occasionally in large sizes too. And the stones have garnered abundant loyal fans owing to their dramatic appearance and exotic look.

Extra-Terrestrial Roots

Its creation is likely to have been the result of either a meteoric impact or "from a diamond-bearing asteroid that collided with Earth," Sotheby's reports.

They can be dated to up to 3.8 billion years. Yup. This is old. The telltale give-a-way in the black diamond is the presence of nitrogen and hydrogen--which points to interstellar space. But it also contains the mineral osbornite which occurs in meteorites. So there you have it. That's some provenance.

It's in the Numbers

Details, details. It boasts 555.55 carats, and get this, it has exactly 55 facets. Pre-sale estimates place the sale of this stone around £5M ($6.8M US)--shouldn't it be £5.555M or something? At any rate, it's only an estimate. What we often see is that eager bidders blow right through these pre-sale estimates--and it's likely to happen this time around.

Good Luck Bidding!

The thing to know is that this is a once in a lifetime opportunity. Online bidding goes from Feb 3-9, so you still have time to paddle up, and make it your best and highest offer.

Something New Under the Sun

2022-01-08T11:41:00.002-05:00

Turns out there is something new under the sun. Well, actually, its discovery is the new part. This gemmy material has been there all along.

Collectors love blue. They love green. They sure enough love rare, and they love stones with variegated areas of color veining. Let's look at Aquaprase. Gemologist-explorer Yianni Melas found the interesting rocks in Africa about a decade or so back. At first it was suspected to be a chrysoprase, or even an unusual opal type.

LAB RESULTS

Eventually, the labs at GIA tested it and determined this was a completely new gemstone. The conclusion was that the appealing material is a previously undiscovered variety of chalcedony quartz.


Le Vian rose gold and Peacock Aquaprase pendant earrings

This is good news for designers whose clientele demand undiscovered gems and that are also rare to boot. The exact location of this material, Melas says will remain anonymous.

ADORED AT TUCSON

But when innovative designers caught wind of it in Tucson's gem shows, they took an immediate liking to it. Some of the material (depending on where it was cut from the rough) exhibits an ethereal sea-foam hue. Other pieces display unique patterns of veining which enhances the overall design of the jewelry.

Either way, collectors have something new to drool over when making their wish list.

Carved in Stone

2021-12-28T21:27:00.001-05:00

If you know anything about Israel, you know the land is loaded with antiquity, much of which has yet to be uncovered.

History Everywhere

Israel is a country rich with history dating back millennia. Archaeological finds in Israel are recovered from digging sites and also from marine excavations. Whatever is uncovered becomes one more link to help fill in the story of ancient times in this holy region.

Recently marine archaeologists there investigated a couple of shipwrecks just off the coast of the ancient seaside town of Caesarea. Located some 35 miles north of modern day Tel Aviv, this port town was an important hub of ancient trade, especially during the Roman Empire where its inhabitants were of various ethnicities and religions.

Sweet Find

The recent haul included an interesting treasure trove of 3rd century valuables including Roman coins, pottery, figurines, bells to ward off evil and a remarkable gold ring from the era.

The ancient gold ring features an intaglio carving of a shepherd boy with a ram or sheep slung over his shoulders. The carved symbol, the Good Shepherd was a potent emblem for early Christians during this era as their numbers were rapidly flourishing.

Distinguishing Types of Carvings

The green stone on the ring carved in the likeness of a shepherd is one way in which rings have been carved for eons. When a flat surface of a stone is carved into, so the design is lower than the flat surface of the stone, we call it intaglio.

Intaglio carving cuts into the stone

When the reverse method is used, wherein a stone is carved away resulting in a raised design with a dimensional effect, we call those cameos. Both types of carvings have roots in ancient civilizations.

High relief in a cameo carving

When a stone carved with an intaglio is placed in a ring, it can also serve as a seal of the wearer--a sort of certified 'signature' of the person. Placing warm sealing wax on a parchment or other surface, the wearer carefully presses their (intaglio) stone into the wax. As it hardens, a raised cameo-like seal is created. The intaglio design is unique to the wearer, and becomes their official 'seal of approval'.

Sorting out Symbolism

The recently found ring was of a rather small size, suggesting it was a woman's ring. While the image of Jesus tending a flock as the Good Shepherd was a common reference in early Christianity, it was unusual to see a ring featuring this symbolism from that era.

Among the fascinating hoard of other discoveries in this trove was a red gemstone (probably once set in a ring) with a carving of a lyre. In ancient times, the harp, or David's Harp, could have been an early reference to the ancient King David.

Expert Opinion

According to Israel Antiquities Authority, Eli Eskozido,"Israel's coasts are rich in sites and finds that are immensely important national and international cultural heritage assets." 💎

A Handful of History

2021-12-15T22:24:00.006-05:00

A couple weeks ago, an historical treasure traded hands, literally.

Diamond enthusiasts watched eagerly for the sale of Marie Antoinette's diamond bracelets which went on the auction block. Two diamond bracelets of 3 rows each (112 stones) were estimated to be between 140 to 150 carats. Obviously they were not removed from their 18th century mountings for an exact weight.

One could call them priceless. In a sense they are. But if you're going to sell these relics of history, you must put a price on them.

Presale estimates of these treasures placed their value between $2 to 4 million dollars. The enraptured bidding at Christie's Geneva on November 10, 2021 quickly blew past those figures. When the diamond dust settled, it was more like $8.2 million dollars.

Famous Provenance

The diamonds belonging to France' last Queen are one of a kind---and more than that, a tangible memorial to the last monarch right before the French Revolution sent her, her husband King Louis XVI, and history recounts, most all of her family to the guillotine.

Like most famous (or infamous depending on how you view the French monarchy) jewels, the backstory tied to these pieces catapults their sensational prices through the stratosphere.

Portable Assets

In the chaotic last months of her life, the queen secreted her bracelets out of France for safekeeping. Diamonds and rare gemstones have been called the world's most portable form of wealth for good reason. These small items represent a concentrated form of valuable assets that are impervious to the fluctuations of a global economy or time for that matter.

Marie Antoinette's object was to provide for herself if she were spared execution, and absent that, to provide for her daughter who was eventually allowed to go to her family in Austria.

Safely Hidden for Centuries

For the last 2 centuries, Christie's said, the remarkable jewels have been kept safe with a private royal family. The miraculous thing about these ancient jewels is that they did not get broken up and reset into modern jewelry--which was the fate of many older royal jewelry pieces.

These diamond bracelets are as light as a feather owing to the skilled workmanship of their manufacture. So while the stones flaunt an ancient asymmetrical cutting, they have a modern vibe lent them by the fluid movement of the articulated style.

Her surviving daughter Marie Therese, (Madame Royale) eventually did receive the jewels when she landed in Austria. Their new owner remains anonymous as a phone bidder.

Is a Diamond also a Gemstone?

2021-11-10T11:13:00.007-05:00

Jewelry fans love collecting all sorts of items from rings to earrings. Searching for them online or in retail stores is a big part of adventure—the hunt has its own thrill! But what many collectors wonder is what to call each of their sparkling treats—and more importantly—what’s what?

What’s a Gemstone?

What exactly IS a gemstone first of all? Let’s look it up, shall we? A peek inside our trusty Encyclopedia Britannica defines gemstone as, “any of various minerals highly prized for beauty, durability, and rarity.” It broadens the scope to include non-crystal stones, because we love all things gemmy, don’t we? “A few non-crystalline materials of organic origin like pearl, red coral, and amber also are classified as gemstones.”

So, when you speak of diamonds for example, you may call them a gemstone. They are a mineral composed of just one element—that being carbon. In the case of pricey and oh-so gorgeous color diamonds, trace amounts of other elements contribute to their eye-catching allure. Boron for example turns a diamond blue. Nitrogen in a diamond crystal lends an attractive yellow tint to the stone.

Colored Stones are Gems too

Other gemmy minerals like those in the beryl family are also called gemstones as they fall into the specific category of what defines a gemstone. Interestingly, all other gemstones outside of diamonds are composed of several elements—not just one (carbon) like the diamond.

Industry experts expand on the gemstone definition somewhat—which is helpful to both serious and casual jewelry collectors. While their list can vary, they unanimously agree that any gemstone—both the colored kind and diamonds should possess ---beauty---durability—and rarity.

Of course—beauty IS in the eye of the beholder, and over time certain gemstones may become all the rage—only to fade from fashion. But like much of fashion—what goes around does eventually come back around when a new generation eyes these stones afresh.

What’s a Jewel?

As long as we’re talking gemstone definitions—what about the word jewel? Turns out, it can be interchangeably used for gemstone. The dictionary gives a concise definition for the word jewel; “a precious stone, typically a single crystal or piece of a hard lustrous or translucent mineral cut into shape with flat facets or smoothed and polished for use as an ornament.”

So, your diamond is a gemstone and a jewel, and a fabulous one at that. Colored gemstones are jewels as well. I suppose we love this topic so much that language developed many ways to express these sparkly stones.

Collect What You Love

Today, collectors are much more engaged with their jewelry collections and buy with intention and forethought. The more you know about the gemstones you collect, the greater your appreciation of them will be. You’ll also begin to develop a discerning eye to collect the best of the species. After all, jewelry is a personal expression of the individual wearer.

Precious v Semi-Precious Stones

Years ago, you heard the expression “precious gems and semi-precious gems.” That was used in earlier times to separate the original “Big 4”: diamond, sapphire, ruby, and emerald from all other stones. Consumers knew those stones were quite pricey owing to their rarity. But fast forward to today and we’ve learned that other colored gems not appearing on the Big 4 short list may have very rare varieties—like Paraiba (Windex blue color) tourmaline for instance. So, the modern consensus is leaning towards calling them all colored stones and let the specific variety be valued at its going rate.

The King of Gems

Diamonds have always held most-favored-status because of their sheer beauty and timelessness. Diamonds have not gone out of style since their discovery centuries ago in India. Their ability to capture light and sparkle (by reflecting light back to the eye) holds us all spellbound. These are true miracles of nature.

Diamonds are proudly called “The King of Gems” owing to their unique attributes. Ranked 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness, diamonds are the hardest material known in the world. This is why diamond jewelry from ancient royalty several hundreds of years back—still amazes us today. The stone’s hardness takes an amazing polish and keeps it looking as brilliant now as it did centuries ago. So, you can trust your diamond jewelry to look just as exciting throughout your entire life. If you leave your diamond jewelry to loved ones someday, your diamonds will be as breathtaking then as they are this very moment.

Lasting Memories

The attribute of diamond’s enduring beauty is one of the reasons why collectors are drawn to memorial diamond jewelry. Lasting memories created in stunning diamonds as a tribute to a loved one is a priceless gift that continues over more than one lifetime—it’s a meaningful jewelry piece that will grow more precious as the years go on—for you and those you may give the piece to someday.

The connection between diamonds and love is fundamental. Diamonds are a beautiful creation that expresses love and commitment. Their durability points to the unbreakable bond of affection that a memorial diamond embodies.

From the cremains of someone you hold dear—or even a stand of hair, a stunning tribute to that loved one can be formed into a radiant memorial diamond that will be a lasting legacy—not in a far-away place—but something you can wear everyday of your life. Turning memories of a loved one or a cherished animal into dazzling wearable beauty is what Heart-in-Diamond is celebrated for. The road from grief to embracing precious memories is best taken with a treasured token of your loved one. ▼

Unexpected Opulence

2021-11-02T23:09:00.003-04:00

Jewelry lovers, in particular, fans who follow historical gemstones are mesmerized by tiaras.

Headgear for an Elite Crowd

Tiaras are made for the elite--the aristocracy and royalty. They are required headgear for female adults (traditionally married ladies) for many formal events. By and large, they are an artistic creation featuring diamonds.

Something Else

Many royal tiaras are actually cleverly made to be convertible pieces, owing to the opulent gemstones in these items. So a jewelry house assigned to create a fine lady's topper will make it so it can convert into a choker, or be disassembled in part to become a cuff style bracelet, or perhaps the center most jewels can be taken apart to become a brooch.

Tiaras are beguiling once you understand their multiple roles, and simply for the expert craftsmanship to pull off making one--with or without its convertible capability.

Stones in a tiara are painstakingly curated to match each other. No simple task.

Different is Always a Good Idea

Sometimes an imaginative regal lady will commission a most unusual tiara. There are some made with cameos, or aquamarine, or even from pearls. Here we have an extraordinary tiara made by the house of Cartier in Paris, circa 1936. It's crafted in platinum--a popular precious metal during the Art Deco era. The other stones are marvelous carved turquoise and diamonds.

Influenced by Eastern Art

Cartier was said to be influenced by ancient Islamic art for this stunning work of art. The turquoise looks to be Persian which had a coveted fine color, and none of the matrix that lesser quality turquoise possesses. Persian turquoise is harder than that found in other regions and lends itself to carving. Nearly a 100 years after this tiara was created, it still holds us spellbound with its opulence and the unexpected gemstones used to create it.

Minty Fresh

2021-09-09T18:56:00.000-04:00

Serious gem collectors don't have to be talked into loving tourmaline.

This gorgeous transparent gemstone favors its fans with abundant colors for every taste. It has a lot to do with what designers do with the stones after they acquire them. The color-rich gemstones fuel the imagination of jewelry artists worldwide.

Gemstone lovers are seeing green

Now a newer-kid-on-the-block has been gaining traction recently for that very reason. It's now called Mint Tourmaline and it's as fresh as a Tic Tac. Most Mint tourmalines are categorized in the Elbaite family of tourmalines. This rare variety of Dravite earns its color via trace elements of vanadium and chromium.

Something for everyone

And there are so many reasons to love it. While the light pastel tints are custom-made for warm weather, the Tropics, and holiday destinations, this cool class act can be paired with wardrobes in any climate. It's just looking for a wearer who insists on staying way out of the ordinary when it comes to her jewelry wardrobe.

Tourmaline can be found in exotic regions around the globe like Tanzania, Brazil, Congo, Nigeria, Mozambique, even American deposits in California and Maine. Some of the most prized examples of this color tourmaline have been found in Afghanistan.

Slim Pickens

The rough crystals have a habit of growing in long slender shapes referred to as 'pencils'. So don't be surprised to find these gems cut into elegant elongated forms like the pair of mint tourmaline stones you see above.

Because they are all natural, you'll find that they range in tone and coloration. Some are very light pastels, others have a bit more vivid tint. They can appear in a straight green, slightly bluish green, or even slightly yellow green. Whichever one you find, it's bound to become your favorite gemstone of all time, owing to its semi-rarity in fine color and quality.

Would you care for a mint?

Cuff Bracelet features 53.15 carats Mint Tourmaline Carved - Polished by Atelier Munsteiner with other fancy color diamonds and fancy sapphires; $90,300.00; Tamsen Z

Octagonal emerald cut mint tourmaline; Parle Gems

Pair of elongated pear shaped mint tourmaline; Ivy and Rose

When You Wish Upon a Star

2021-09-02T21:02:00.000-04:00

Savvy gemstone collectors know Sri Lanka to be one of the world's premier colored gem locales.

So many precious stones are found on this island nation, including the very coveted ruby and sapphire varieties of corundum. But even for a nation accustomed to beautiful stones coming from the earth, this find was earth shattering.

Found in the City of Gems

It seems the world's largest star sapphire cluster was accidentally found in a Sri Lankan's backyard in the town of Ratnapura no less. Ratnapura actually means city of gems . . .so . . .

The massive rock weighs close to 510 kilograms, or nearly 1,125 lbs. To keep things on the down low until the boulder can be safely removed, the homeowners exact location is kept secret. He was digging a well, and . .well . . there it was. It's estimated to hold about 2.5 million carats of star sapphire. Experts say they found the material to be of high quality when they cleaned some of it.

How the Sapphire Gets its Star

But what exactly is star sapphire you wonder? It seemed to have enjoyed its heyday in the Art Deco era and still collected its devotees afterward for some years. Lately, its not as in demand as earlier times. Yet star sapphire is a beautiful stone.

Star sapphires are polished in high domes rather than faceted as other sapphires are. The cabochon polishing allows the interior rays to be displayed in a 6 ray pattern across the center of the dome. The straighter the rays, and the farther down the sides of the stone they go, the greater the value of the stone.

The cause of the rays are interesting rutile needles inside the sapphire crystal. Polishing it in a cabochon with a high dome exposes the rutile needles in a star-like pattern. This phenomenon is called asterism.

Show Me the Money

The big star sapphire boulder has been named Serendipity Sapphire and experts estimate its value at $100 million US dollars pending authentication by independent experts. That's a good idea.

The Bigger the Better

2021-07-05T16:05:00.001-04:00

If you've been following mining news lately, you'll be astonished again and again. The bigger the better seems to rule the day with recent diamond discoveries. Mammoth white diamond crystals have been recovered with some regularity and have dazzled the global diamond community with their size and potential.

Large diamonds are exceedingly rare. Natural fancy colored diamonds occur at about the rate of 1 per 10,000 diamonds recovered.

Then There's Blue

The rarest fancy color diamond hue is red. Then there's blue. They are almost as rare as red diamonds. Most fancy blues are classified as Type IIb diamonds, acquiring their coloration from the inclusion of the element boron thought to have originated deep within the earth’s oceans. A rarity within a rarity, fancy color blue diamonds account to about 0.1% of gem quality diamonds discovered.

Recently Petra Diamonds Ltd., Cullinan Mine announced the finding of a 39.34 carat Type IIb diamond. They say it is of exceptional quality in both its color and clarity. When it comes to quality characteristics, those two traits top the list of desirability for a fancy color diamond.

Cullinan mine worker inspects the sorting belts carrying ore in to the plant for sorting

With rough fancy color diamond crystals, the higher the clarity means less to cut away for the finished stone. Diamonds can lose a great percentage of their rough in order to attain a finished stone of the highest clarity which is valued more than larger stones of a lower grade clarity.

Finished Stone

With this stone's clarity prognosticators guess that this stone may yield at about a 40%-meaning perhaps a polished stone of 15 or 16 carats. This particular blue tint is unusual and will appeal colored diamond collectors worldwide.

If you're in the bidding mood, this stone will go to auction July 12, 2021 where it's projected to earn close to a million dollars a carat. Any interest?

Large Lavish & Gemmy

2021-06-18T15:27:00.005-04:00

Diamond lovers can easily tell you that the largest gem quality diamond ever unearthed was the Culinan, discovered in 1905 in South Africa.

That gigantic stone weighed in at 3,106 carats. Huge and then some. What most people never knew however is that the rough was discovered with a massive perfectly straight cleavage plane. That means it was naturally separated underground at some point along its cleavage. So the Culinan we know was part of a larger diamond crystal. Imagine that.

The recovery of large diamond crystals is the stuff of dreams--where everything turns out super wonderful in our lives and maybe made into a musical film with synchronized swimmers or whatever. All we know is we love to find these unicorns of nature.

The 2nd largest gemmy diamond ever found was a 1,109 carat diamond named the Lesedi La Rona discovered in Botswana more recently in 2015.

Another massive diamond discovery

Now the latest stunner is a spectacular 1,098 carat diamond crystal just recovered from Botswana too. Who can price such a find? It will take some time, say experts.

On June 1, 2021, Debswana Group reported the recovery of an as yet unnamed crystal measuring 73 x 52 x 27 mm. It could not have come at a better time for Botswana, which suffered greatly after the pandemic hit.

Buoyed by this remarkable discovery, the mine plans to increase its production as much as 38% over its pre-pandemic output. Everybody go yay!

HOLY MACLE!

2021-01-25T21:46:00.002-05:00

When it comes to jewelry design--well, there's just so much of it. Trick is to tell a story that hasn't been told before--or at least not in previous ways. Sometimes it amounts to looking at something in a completely new way.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Trite axiom, but nevertheless true.

The ring above contains 3 mysteriously shaped stones. They are naturally formed diamonds, in a shape referred to as macle. They are flat rather like a triangle shaped lozenge. How interesting! Most of us have never laid eyes on a rough diamond from the ground, let alone these hypnotic tri-corner shapes.

Designers are forever scrambling to express their personal viewpoints in such a way as to make the most indifferent jewelry collector stop at take notice. Such is the reaction one has discovering this ring by Jennifer Dawes. She says, "Most people have never seen an uncut diamond and this one-of-a-kind ring features three natural, uncut, raw macle diamonds with fascinating triangular characteristics that form the stone."

These most unusual triangular shaped central stones in this artisanal ring are naturally formed. It's one of several crystal configurations in which diamonds are found. "If you look very closely," Dawes says, "you can see the millions of tiny triangular crystals that make up these fabulous diamonds."

Her imaginative interpretation of the diamond ring invites viewers to reconsider just what is beauty. Sometimes the very essence of a material is quite stunning enough. In those cases, we should just leave well enough alone and admire the natural elegance of it all.

Hewn Taper Macle Diamond Ring; Jennifer Dawes Designs; $9,295.00

Carving Out a Story

2020-12-24T21:12:00.007-05:00

For many regions of the world, the fine art of cameo carving is a thing of the past. Except of course in Idar -Oberstein, Germany. This region is renowned for its cameo and gemstone cutting masters.

Leading this elite group of carving artists is the Roth family. Learn more by visiting the Roth's website, and especially their Galerie; https://roth-cameo.com/

For many carvers in the region, cameo carving is a family affair. And so often it is a multi-generational vocation. How else can one learn the delicate subtleties of hand carving except by watching a master perform this skill over and over?


black and white tumbled banded agate sample

The banded agate cameo shown up top was hand carved and part of a larger collection of Biblical themed subjects. The marvelous trait about banded agate, a naturally occurring material is that it develops into multi-layers of different colors.With deft precision, a carver utilizes these various layers to create perspective plus the subject of the carving with a contrasting color for the background.

Each cameo in the Roth's Biblical suite conveys not only a story, but with it the emotion behind the topic. This is the Holy Family fleeing to Egypt to escape the wrath of Herod who wanted to find the Christ Child ---and kill him. In this depiction. Mary securely holds her infant, looking ahead with trepidation but quiet resolve.

But look at Joseph--as the family protector, and leader, he's guiding their journey forward, yet glancing back to ensure that they are not being pursued.

This art form may not have many experts nowadays, like the Roth's, whose cameos are a permanent testament to this exquisite art-form. Yet each hand carved work of art opens a tiny window into a story the carver wants us to know.

Cameo Courtesy: Andreas Roth, Roth Cameos, Idar-Oberstein

Star Gazing

2020-12-17T22:17:00.000-05:00

Throughout time immemorial, the mere sight of stars has held mankind captive. How wonderful to gaze at their majesty and mystery. We can also experience a similar mesmerizing effect when gazing at star gemstones.

How does that phenomenon occur in gemstones, actually? Certain stones, like ruby, sapphire, moonstone, and garnet to name a few, can sometimes appear with a star effect called asterism. To reveal this appearance in a jewel, first of all the gem material has to have silk-like inclusions naturally occurring inside the stone. This phenomenal effect is quite rare in any gemstone whatsoever. So finding an extraordinary specimen is a bona fide treasure.

By polishing the stone into a domed cabochon, rather than faceting it, the inclusions, (often rutile needles) result in rays centering on the top of the dome, and extending all the way down its sides, displaying 6-rays. A phenomenal oddity you may find interesting occurs in another material, star diopside. This stone displays 4-rays rather than 6. But on any material, and certainly with sapphire, the straighter the rays, and the farther down they extend to the entire stone, the more valuable they are.

OMI Prive scours the globe looking for the most extraordinary examples of gemstone varieties. They are lauded for their rare stones eclipsed only by their expertly crafted settings. The purple star sapphire ring shown here ticks off all the boxes for both rarity and beauty.

OMI says about this ring, "A guiding star hidden within. When light hits this 14.48 carat purple star sapphire, its rays appear in alignment with six claw-like prongs." Now that's creating with intent.

This month is as good as any for casting your gaze skyward. It's Christmas time for many people and the star holds a special message. The Christmas story tells of Three Wise Men guided by a spectacular star in the east that heralded the Child's arrival.

Did you know we can enjoy a spectacular celestial show once again in modern times? On December 21st, which also happens to be the Winter Solstice, Jupiter and Saturn will bring us another cosmic Christmas Miracle. For the 1st time since the Middle Ages--1226 to be exact, these planets will appear so close as to create the Christmas Star once again.

Now to be clear, these planets do align similarly every 20 years or so . . . but not that close, and not that bright as to appear like one gigantic symbol of hope.

And with this year now slipping behind us, thank goodness, couldn't we all use a ray of hope? After all, it'll be another 800 years before we can see that spectacle again.

So look up!

Ring Courtesy; OMI Prive; Purple Star Sapphire Cabochon 14.32x12.20x8.47MM, 14.48 carats, Origin Ceylon (Sri Lanka)

The Right Background

2020-12-11T20:40:00.002-05:00

One's background plays a key role in social standing. Turn's out, the same concept is true when it comes to fancy gemstones. The origin of a stone is essential in placing it in that rarefied air of being most coveted (in part) because of its provenance.

Take sapphires for instance--I mean we'd all like to take sapphires, wouldn't we? The priciest have phenomenal color--and evenly distributed hues across the entire stone. Not too dark, not too light, it should also be as free as possible from distracting inclusions.

The cut matters too. It should be well proportioned, symmetrical, and the facets should do their job of handling light and reflecting it back to the eye of its admirer.

Rarity doesn't hurt either. The rarer the better is the frame of mind in gemstone circles.

That just about does it . . . except for its background--the original source of discovery. Stones from certain locales are more desirable for different reasons. Maybe it's difficult to get to that area anymore. Or a natural occurrence prohibits access to the region. There are lots of reasons. But we've got as good an example as you'll ever want to see.

Trekkers hike up near the Himalayas in the brief summer months where access is possible

We're talking Kashmir Sapphire. High in the remote Himalayan Mountains lies an almost inaccessible area known as Kashmir. 19th century outsiders to the region encountered the legendary Kashmir sapphire, something already known to tribal communities living there for centuries. By the 20th century most of the mines were emptied out of their trove. Today few circulate, and mostly at auction. When they come to market, a bidding fever erupts.

What makes a Kashmir sapphire so desirable? Sapphires are found in a various regions of the globe, Ceylon, Madagascar produce some valuable crystals, and the USA gives up some exotic fancy colored sapphires as well.

But Kashmir sapphires are celebrated for their exquisite cornflower blue tint, and what gemologists say is a sleepy appearance--velvety for sure. Although highly transparent, minute silky inclusions typical of Kashmir rough lend that soft velvet impression.

Kashmir sapphires are often found covered in kaolin, a natural mineral that looks a bit like white clay.

Approximately 11-carat Kashmir sapphire rough encased in kaolin clay: Photo; Corundominiuim

Trouble is, these mythical stones are almost unicorns now--there simply are not many available. Those of high quality in large carat sizes are like a dream.

This week however, at Christie's Magnificent Jewels sale, one such stone having the right background made its way onto the block. A 43.10-carat Kashmir sapphire shown in the lead image up top was surrounded by icy white diamonds, and set in platinum.

The winner, winner, sapphire dinner? Harry Winston of course, a jeweler who knows a thing or two about priceless jewels. But there was a price when the hammer went down one last time. $6-Million, they said and worth every dollar they claim. Just thought you'd like to know.