New or updated lexicon subjects | Christian's Where to ski

Double ropes

Thu, 10 Jun 2010 12:10:09 GMT

Half ropes (8-9 mm) can, in contrast to twin ropes, used to secure two behind comingclimbers and can be mounted separately and in belay. They are slightly heavier than twin ropes. The standard fall test is performed with a 55-kg weight on the single string.

Twin Ropes

Thu, 10 Jun 2010 11:45:53 GMT

Twin ropes must only be used in pairs and are
clipped together into each piece of protection,
as with single rope technique (Twin
rope technique). The two ropes offer redundancy
and thus, increased safety in the
case of shock loading over a sharp edge. They
are therefore especially suited for alpine
climbing or demanding routes where retreat
may be necessary.

Quick draws

Thu, 10 Jun 2010 10:10:36 GMT

Carbines are used to make a secure connection between the climbing rope and safety point of a climbing wall or mountain side

Helicopter Air Rescue Six golden rules

Wed, 14 Oct 2009 16:55:55 GMT

1) Both arms upward, palms facing inwards, the marshal stands with his back against the wind.
2) Special precautions: No loose objects left lying
3) the eye contact is important to the pilot on the approach. Dashed zone entered only when stationary rotor.
4) Approaching the helicopter only from the front and in a lower posture
5) approach to the helicopter only from the valley side.
6) Be careful of antennas, skis, probe length, etc. objects bear horizontally to the helicopter

Allcord as safety Precautions by rappelling

Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:39:30 GMT

If the rope use to brake is released accidentally, the figure 8 looses its breaking power. Therefore, one should always use an Allcord as safety Precautions

Sunglasses

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:55:12 GMT

To protect your eyes when you are in the mountain you need a high quality sunglasses with at least class 4 (Glacier proofed), also side protect so the sun can not shine in form the side is also preferable.

Gaiters

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:54:50 GMT

Gaiters are garments worn over the shoe and lower pant leg, and used primarily to prevent snow and water to enter your boot

Chest Strap

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:54:40 GMT

The Chest Strap is optional equipment and can only be used in conjunction with a normal climbing harness. The Chest strap can give you an advantage if you are caring a heavy backpack because better balance in case of a fall. If you should use a chest strap or not is heavily discussed by the different Alpin clubs

Crampons Mountaineering Boots (Class D)

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:54:02 GMT

Fully crampon boots have mostly fixed to the shoe-mounted lever breakpoints for bonds, similar to ski bindings.

Via ferrata set

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:53:38 GMT

A Via ferrata set secures hikers or mountain climbers against falling. It consists of a rope on the harness, and two snap hooks from which at least one can be attached to the via ferrata wire. In addition, it consists of a braking device in the form of a perforated plate that slows the fall by dynamic friction when the rope passage through and avoids a hard fall.

Bivouac sack

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:53:20 GMT

A bivouac sack (also known as a bivy sack, bivvy bag, bivi bag or just bivy) is an extremely small, lightweight, waterproof and windproff shelter

Technical Friend

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:51:22 GMT

A spring-load camming device (SLCD) which comes in a variety of sizes to fit a variety of crack widths. Friends, the first camming devices, were invented by Yosemite climber Ray Jardine in the late 1970s to protect the valley’s smooth-sided cracks.

Backpack (Climbing/Tracking)

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:50:15 GMT

A backpack for climbing and tracking should be the size of 30 litre, small and with not to much external attachment so it don’t get caught in the rocks when you are climbing

First aid kit

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:12:58 GMT

A First Aid Kit should always be in you backpack. From the standard stuff I also includes, Compeed against blister, Ibuprofen (Against pain in the joint, anti-inflammatory), Aspirin (against headache), Bepanthen (to treat small skin wounds), Climbing tape (For repairs and bandages), CPR leaflet, small cord (For repairs)

Cap

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 13:56:22 GMT

A good quality cap should always be with you on the tour to protect your head against the sun and the cold

Ski mountaineering pole

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 13:46:45 GMT

In contrast to classic ski poles are for the tour ski walkers indispensable. Ski mountaineering sticks are adjustable in the height since different size of the pole is used in the ascent and descent.

Soft Shell Glove

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 13:36:37 GMT

A thin soft shell glove is used in good weather or when you are sweating. They should only be used if you have a spare 2 chamber gloves in your backpack

two-chamber glove

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 13:31:46 GMT

A good quality two chamber glove is essential when skiing or in the mountain, they are primarily used when you are not sweating, or should be in your backpack as a reserve in case you main gloves get wet or it gets colder

ski poles

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 13:21:51 GMT

Ski poles (sometimes called "stocks") are used by skiers to improve balance, speed and acceleration.

Ski goggles

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 13:04:18 GMT

A ski goggles with red or yellow glass can improve you sight dramatically and is a must to protect your eyes from the wind and to improve your sight during bad weather conditions

Spare batteries

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 12:59:43 GMT

You should always bring spare batteries for your lamp/GPS/avalanche receiver in case you get a flat battery

Seat Cushions

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 12:55:53 GMT

When having a rest a small cushion is nice to have because I prevent you to get a cold or wet behind

Camelbak

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 12:52:38 GMT

Instead of a drink bottle you can also use a Camelbak was your water supply for your mountains tours. You such the water from the container normally placed in your backpack from a tube. Only in winter can this be a disadvantage because the tube can freeze up

Ski boot

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 12:45:38 GMT

The ski boot gives the foot hold and provides a stabile connection from the foot to the ski. The ski boot has a special shape for the supports of the binding.

Hexentric (Walnuts)

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 12:21:46 GMT

The Hexentric (Walnut) is placed in a crack or clamped in the rock so a carabineer be attach and the rope can be clicked in.

Leathermann Multitools

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 12:17:58 GMT

A multi function tools is good to have to make small repairs on your equipment, it is important the multi tool has screwdrivers that fits the screws on your boots and bindings. Also spare screws for your boot and binding can be a big advantage.

Impregnating wax

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 12:11:16 GMT

Special paraffin prevents wrinkling for long periods and improves the gliding properties of adhesive ski skins.

Mobilephone

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 12:08:38 GMT

A mobile phone is good to have with you on your tours so you can call for help in case of emergency or to get the latest weather forecast. BUT it should be turned off during the tour so it doesn’t interfere with your avalanche rescue device.

Cable Strips

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 11:54:34 GMT

When it is cold or wet it can happen that your ski skins do no prober glue to your skies any more, or the attachments can break. An easy solution is to use cable strips to attach the ski skin.

Suncream

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 11:47:02 GMT

In the mountains the sun is much stronger than in lower altitudes, also the snow reflects the sun back. When you are in the mountains you need a high quality sun cream to protect your skin. I use the children version because it will not cause irritation in your eyes when you sweat

Binoculars

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 11:41:12 GMT

Binoculars are good to have with you to find the best descent, or the best route.

Ski skins

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 11:40:57 GMT

The Ski skins are a climbing aid. The Ski skins are attached to the ski to provide grip on the snow. They prevent the skis slip backwards and simultaneously allow the glide forward.

GPS receiver

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 11:17:19 GMT

A GPS navigation device is a device that receives Global Positioning System (GPS) signals for the purpose of determining the present location. New models also include digital maps, routing and tracking functions. This can be very useful for tour planning and in the mountains to keep on track and to track back in case of bad weather or poor sight

Energie-Bars/Powerbar/PowerGel

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 11:00:21 GMT

Energy bars or power gel provide a high concentration of carbohydrates, along with proteins and fats, to give the body the fuel it needs to continue functioning. It is good to have with your to boost your energy or in case of emergency

Travel Sheets

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 10:53:08 GMT

The Travel Sheets are rectangular or mummy-shaped sleeping bag liners which can be used as a sleeping bag for warm weather, or simply a sleep sack for traveling. It is mandatory in hostels and handy in adventure hotels

Headlamp

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 10:45:25 GMT

A descent into the darkness without a headlamp can be dangerous if your tour for whatever reason, is delayed, you should always have a headlamp in your backpack. Also in the huts at night without lights, a headlamp is practical

Hut shoes

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 17:06:32 GMT

When you are in a hut you are not allowed to wear your hiking boots, so always bring a pear of slippers for the evening comfort.

Multi function t-shirt

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 17:00:31 GMT

A multifunction t-shirt that’s transports you sweat away from your body is essential as first layer

Drink bottle

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 16:43:20 GMT

Drink bottle with a least room for one litre of water

Pants for Mountaineering

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 16:31:25 GMT

A mountaineering pants for the entire year from stretchable, washable material must always be wtih you.

Jacket Multi function windstopper

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 16:25:49 GMT

A Multi function windstopper jacket as the last layer is important to keep rain, wind and water away. All latest models are also “breathable” so sweat can exit your body and no rain can enter. Combined with a fleece this will keep you warm with minimum weight

Fleece jacket

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 16:14:48 GMT

A fleece jacket is important to have in your backpack. You can wear this alone or under your wind proof jacket. This is important so you can dress in layers to keep warm.

Thermos

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 16:08:17 GMT

A Thermos is essential to have with you when you are in the mountains in cold weather. My favourite is peppermint tee with honey, gives you a boost when you are cold and thirsty

Scarf

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:52:00 GMT

A scarf is good to have to protect you neck and head against cold, since your body looses most of the heat from the top regions of your body

Powder Cords

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:47:18 GMT

Powder cords are long, brightly colored cords made from durable fabrics that attach to your bindings and trail out from your skis when you fall

Rope on the glacier

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:45:12 GMT

Rope up will be done through an 8 knot and carbines with seal (HMS carabineer).
Distances between the rope partners:
3-persons roped: 12 m
4-personse roped or larger: 10 m
During the 3 person rope, break knots must also be used.

Ski touring boots

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:45:05 GMT

A Ski touring boots is a ski boot that can be set in flexible and ski mode. In flexible mode the top of the boot can move back and forward, so you can walk almost like a normal boot. When skiing is required the boot is set to ski mode at the boot is stiff.

Climbing helmet

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:44:59 GMT

A climbing helmet is used to protect your head from falling stones when you are doing climbing

Climbing Harness

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:44:52 GMT

A climbing harness is a piece of equipment used in certain types of rock-climbing, abseiling or other activities requiring the use of ropes to provide access and/or safety. A harness is used to secure a person to a piece of rope or an anchor point.

Ice Axes

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:44:47 GMT

Walking and general mountaineering axes are used to cut steps, climb easy snow and ice, prevent a slip, and to affect self arrest should you slip.

Crampons

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:44:40 GMT

Crampons are outdoor footwear that include pointed metal parts and are worn on boots to provide traction on snow and ice.

Harscheisen

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:44:34 GMT

These devices fit between the boot and the plate of the binding and allow a row of metal teeth to protrude downwards on either side of the ski. When the foot and the plate of the binding are raised the ski can glide forward; when the foot is lowered the teeth bite into the snow like a crampon.

Single ropes

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:44:27 GMT

Single ropes are the most common type of
ropes used. Depending upon diameter and
length they can be used for most conditions.
The main advantage is simple handling. A disadvantage
is that only routes up to a half rope
length high, with subsequent lowering or rappelling,
can be climbed.

Slings

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:44:19 GMT

A sling or runner is an item of climbing equipment consisting of a tied or sewn loop of webbing that can be wrapped around sections of rock, tied to other pieces of equipment.

Nutter

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:36:36 GMT

The main function of the Nutter help release walnuts, so they be removed back out of the rock

screw karabiner

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:34:20 GMT

Screw carbines is a carbines is equipped with a screw loch to ensure that carbines shutter does not open by accident. The difference between an HMS carbines and normal screw carbines is that it is not as wide.

Figure 8

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 14:48:37 GMT

The Figure 8 is used for rappelling and as a safety equipment when climbing

Allcord

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 14:42:19 GMT

Allcord is used for many different functions when climbing in the mountains or on the glacier tours. It is a principle of an additional short piece of rope.
The standard for mountain tours are 3 pieces of the length 1,2,4 meters.

Tibloc ascender

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 14:38:47 GMT

A ultra-lightweight ascender can be used to build hauling systems or as a Prusik-replacement in self-rescue situations.

HMS Karabiners

Tue, 14 Jul 2009 14:38:35 GMT

The Screw feature allows the karabinier not to open accidently.

Barryvox

Mon, 13 Jul 2009 22:20:42 GMT

Barryvox is derived from the name of the Avalanche beacons devices from the company Mammut, which in turn recalls the memory to the legendary Avalanche rescue dog Barry.

altitude zones

Mon, 13 Jul 2009 22:17:08 GMT

high altitude: 2000 to 3000 m
intermediate altitude 1000 to 2000 m
low altitude below 1000 m

slope angle

Mon, 13 Jul 2009 22:16:58 GMT

moderately steep less than 30°
steep 30 to 35°
very steep 35 to 40°
extremely steep over 40°

Ski mountaineering ski

Mon, 13 Jul 2009 22:08:45 GMT

Ski mountaineering ski are combined downhill and touring Skis. The Binding in a Ski mountaineering ski attaches only at the toe in walking mode, and can be set to downhill mode when skiing down.

Alpine Skis

Mon, 13 Jul 2009 22:08:28 GMT

Skis used in Alpine Skiing are precise, fast, and excellent for hard groomed Pist. They are designed for easy turning. The Ski Bindings securely fasten the foot to the Ski at toe and heel. It has a mechanism that detaches the Ski from the foot in case the force applied goes beyond the preset value. Alpine Skis are suitable for advanced to race levels.

Avalanche probe

Mon, 13 Jul 2009 22:07:37 GMT

Avalanche probe an invaluable tool in search of avalanche victims. You use the probe to stick done in the snow to find the person who is buried under the avalanche.

Dig out an avalanche victim

Sun, 14 Jun 2009 16:34:45 GMT

1) Measurement of the V-shaped Snow Belt
2) V-shaped line-up of the Saviours and the determination of the distances
3) work in sectors at the central snow conveyer: The snow will be transported with paddle movements
4) initial visual contact with the victim more rescuers are needed at the front. Careful work on the victim

Stop or Go Card

Sun, 14 Jun 2009 15:02:08 GMT

The Stop or Go Card from Michael Larcher is preferred by the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) to asses the avalanche danger

DAV-SnowCard

Sun, 14 Jun 2009 15:01:49 GMT

The method from the German mountaineering club DAV to in a fast way to check and do risk assessment of avalanche danger

Avalanche emergency equipment recommendation

Sun, 14 Jun 2009 12:50:29 GMT

Standard Avalanche emergency equipment recommendations
of the Alpine Club
A) Standard emergency equipment (always and every time):

LVS, not older than 10 years, preferably 3-antenna devices, shovel, preferably made of hardened aluminium; probe, at least 240 cm long.
Additional: First-aid equipment, bivouac sack, mobile phone (number of units depending on group size).

B) Recommended additional emergency equipment (in order of their importance and their effectiveness):

1. Airbag Systems
Balloon systems, which itself will need to generate an additional volume of 150 l or 170 and thereby promote flowing effect in avalanches.
Rescue Principle: The dept of burial is reduce or prevented, "who stays up, survived - mostly." Two manufacturers currently: ABS (according SLF database 120 cases documented in Europe, of which 114 people (95%) survived), SnowPulse (available since spring 2008, yet no documented injuries).

2. Avalung
allows you to breathe through a filter and separates the breath intake and outtake to breathe under the snow.
Rescue Principle: Survival in the avalanche is extended. Five documented successful rescues.

3. Avalanche Ball
Further development of the former "avalanche cord. A folded ball fitted with a clamping spring with a cord attach to the body. When triggered the ball jumps from the bag and will remain visible at the surface.
Rescue principle: location system - like LVS - however, optical, not electronic. Two success stories since 1997 (according to manufacturer's homepage).

4. Recco
In clothing (helmet, shoes, jacket) integrated reflector allows for the tracking (radar principle) of victims who do not carry LVS. Searching is only by organized rescue team with Recco detector possible.

Check and Ride

Sun, 14 Jun 2009 12:49:30 GMT

Safety product to record the most important information given by the avalanche report.

Avalung

Sun, 14 Jun 2009 12:44:40 GMT

With the AvaLung, someone buried by an avalanche is able to breathe the oxygen contained in the snow. Even heavily compressed snow has an air component of at least 50%. The person’s exhaled air is directed into the snowpack at the rear corner of the pack, away from the fresh air intake zone. This dramatically increases the amount of time a victim can breathe and stay alive while trapped in the snow

Recco

Wed, 06 May 2009 12:23:28 GMT

The RECCO® system is an exceptional additional search method since it can pinpoint the exact location of burial with harmonic radar. The equation that enables this search precision is an interaction between two critical parts, a reflector and a detector. The RECCO® detector is used by organized rescue groups, and RECCO® reflectors are permanently affixed by snow sports manufacturers to their commercially available clothing, helmets, boots or protection gear.

Avalanche shovel

Wed, 06 May 2009 12:22:56 GMT

An avalanche shovel is designed dig out people who are buried in an avalanche

Avalanche transceiver Beacons

Wed, 06 May 2009 12:22:41 GMT

An avalanche transceiver is a small device, about the size of a paperback and weighing around 200 grams. It enables a group of off-piste enthusiasts to mount their own search and rescue operation in the event of an avalanche.

Avalanche backpacks

Wed, 06 May 2009 12:22:30 GMT

If you are caught in an avalanche, you can trigger an "Airbag" which is integrated into backpack; it will increase your buoyancy in the avalanche. In this way you can avoid being dragged down by avalanches and ending up in the surface. This will increase your chance of survival.Two manufacturers currently: ABS (according SLF database 120 cases documented in Europe, of which 114 people (95%) survived), Snowpulse (available since spring 2008, yet no).

Partner check

Wed, 06 May 2009 12:21:36 GMT

Please click the link to the left to see the video of how to make a proper partner check before starting climbing.

Ski mountaineering backpack pack list

Wed, 06 May 2009 12:01:16 GMT

Avalanche Probe
Avalanche Shovel
Bivouac sack
First Aid Kit
Head lamp
Sunglasses (Mountain and Glacier)
Extra pair of gloves
Sun cream
Paper towels
Multi tool
Wax for ski skins
Emergency light-stick
Energy bar
Avalanche Transceivers (Wear on your body)
Spare batteries for headlamp/Transceivers/GPS

3x3 Method

Wed, 06 May 2009 11:42:53 GMT

The 3x3 Reduction Method are used to find the acceptable avalanche risk before going in to mountains

UIAGM

Wed, 06 May 2009 11:12:20 GMT

International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA/IVBV/IFMGA)
(UIAGM = Union internationale des associations de guide de montagne)
Highly competent guides with a high level of training, the highest in existence, is required in four different disciplines in order to become a certified IFMGA mountain guide: rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering and ski mountaineering. IFMGA training gives a guide the ability to work on any mountain range whether they already know the mountain or not. It takes five to 10 years to become a mountain guide, from the moment they start serious mountaineering to the moment when they receive their guide diploma.

Topo UIAA standard icon

Wed, 06 May 2009 11:00:07 GMT

Icons from UIAA Guidebook used In TOPOS maps

UIAA

Wed, 06 May 2009 10:59:21 GMT

Official International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation
(UIAA = Union Internationale des Associations d‘Alpinisme)

Ski route

Mon, 20 Apr 2009 20:26:39 GMT

A ski-route is generally accessible with skis and is clear marked and no avalanche danger is guaranteed, but neither prepared nor is controlled.

weight difference by climbing

Thu, 16 Apr 2009 11:59:52 GMT

The max weight difference between 2 climbers should be maximum 20%

About avalanches

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

In the Alps about 100 people die annually in avalanche accidents.

There are 2 types of avalanche are normally dangerous to ski and snowboarder:
Wet-snow avalanche and slab avalanches.

A wet-snow avalanche is triggered normally by itself and is only a danger to person if you stand under it in the wrong time.

A slab avalanche is triggered normally by having a load on it. So it is an active release of a person. This is the type of avalanches which cause most accidents.

An avalanche snow layer is formed from snow that is not bound very well to the other snow layer. How the top snow layer will glide on the other snow layers when there is an additional load.

To avoid avalanche you should read the avalanche bulletin, it tells where there is danger of avalanche (Height, exposure mountainside slope) it requires much experience in being able to do so.

The European avalanche hazard scale is defined by 5 levels. It is published every morning at 07:30, where various weather stations have measured the strength of the snow layer.

Ice screw

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

An ice screw is a screw used to protect a climb over steep ice or for setting up a crevasse rescue system.

Equipment for Glacier tours

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

1 Rope (Single), 50 m
1 Climbing Harness, possibly combined with chest harness
3 Screw locking carabineers (HMS),
2 carabineers
3 static cords, 6 mm, 1/3/3 m
1 Sling, 120 cm
1 Ice Screw, 21 cm
1 Tibloc Ascender

LLB

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

German for Avalanche rapport (Lawinenlagebericht)

Climbing shoes

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

Snug-fitting shoes with high-friction rubber soles and carefully designed edges that allow climbers to stand on tiny footholds

Avalanche Danger Scale - Europe

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

Since 1993, there are the single European avalanche danger scale. The Avalanche Warning Bavaria, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, France, Slovenia and Spain agreed on a common system of classification of the avalanche danger.

Secondary Search

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

The secondary search is the Secondary Transceiver Search after the primary search. The rescuer is now leaving his search pattern because his go a signal. With the Digital beacons the rescuer follows the direction of arrows shown on the beacon until he is in close range (2-4 meters). In close proximity he is changing his search to Localization.

Localization With Transceiver

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

The Localization is the search in the vicinity of the victim are used to find the almost exact location of the victim. The cross technique technique is used to find the presumed location of the victim and to determine and the area for the probing set.

Probing

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

The first injection point should be in the middle of a point in the positioning ski pole cross found be the cross technique. Then move the probe and insert with a distance of about 20 cm starting from the center

Reductions method (3x3)

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

Werner Munter is the inventor of the reduction method. by using the risk factors and the degree of reduction factors such as steepness, exposure, the avalanche risk behaviour can be determined.

slab avalanche

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

The simultaneous release of a cohesive snow layer (slab) characterized by a distinct fracture line (or crown fracture) at the top of the avalanche.

wet snow avalanche

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

Avalanche consisting of wet snow. Compared to a dry snow avalanche, the flow speed of a wet snow avalanche is usually slower and therefore the run out distance is usually shorter. However, the impact on obstacles is considerable due to the higher density of wet snow.

Prusik

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

The Prusik is a slide and grip knot; because it is symmetrical, it is useful if a load might need to be applied in either direction.
The Prusik is a knot used mainly for emergency use

Avalanche danger

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

From this point on is there Avalanche danger

whumpfing, collapsing sound

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

Distinctive sound (“whumph” or “whumpf”) that occurs when a weak layer below a slab collapses.. The sound usually indicates an unstable situation and can be accompanied by cracking. Repeated whumpfs are a clear alert of avalanche hazard.

Clove Hitch

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

You need Clove Hitch when you want to secure your self at the anchoring point. This self-insurance protects you from that crash. The Clove Hitch has the advantage that it can move without opening it

Climbing grade

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route.

Double Figure Eight Loop

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

Is used to secure you to the climbing rope

Munter hitch

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

The hitch is simply a set of wraps using a rope or cord around an object, generally a round object like a pipe, pole or more commonly, a carabineer. Its main use is as a friction device for controlling the rate of descent in belay systems.

Critical new snow depth

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:59:52 GMT

The new snow is a load for the old snow cover and hence increases the avalanche danger.

The rule of thumb for the critical new snow depth is:

10 to 20 cm with unfavourable situations
20 to 30 cm with intermediate situations
30 to 50 cm with favourable situations

Favourable: low to moderate wind speeds, air temperature close to 0°C, strongly irregular old snow surface, frequently skied slopes.

Unfavourable: high rate of precipitation, strong winds (> 50 km/h, roaring wind), low temperature (below –5 to –10°C ), smooth old snow surface (surface hoar, melt-freeze crust or ice, , very old snow surface,), rarely skied slopes.

Retention distances downhill

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:32:46 GMT

Precaution to ensure the snowpack is less burden so you minimize risk of triggering an avalanche

Retention distance ascent

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 11:32:39 GMT

Precaution to ensure the snowpack is less burden so you minimize risk of triggering an avalanche

Survival probability in a avalanche

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 10:34:46 GMT

The likelihood of survival in an avalanche is within the first 15 minutes are relatively high (90%).
Around 10% dies immediately because of the mechanical forces applied to the body during the time in the avalanche.
After 15 minutes the chance of survival falls dramatically
since no rescue team can be onsite and dig you within 15 minutes it is very important that you can find and dig your mates out your self.

Packing list Ski mountaineering

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 10:15:31 GMT

Storm hood
sunglasses
sunscreen
pocketknife
reserve gloves
food drink
pencil and paper
avalanche transceiver
avalanche probe
avalanche shovel
first-aid kit
emergency bivouac sack
maps
mobile
altimeter

Primary Search Avalanche rescue more persons

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 10:14:17 GMT

The goal of the primary search is to receive a signal. when you switch your transceiver to search mode and receive a signal, you have already completed the primary search.

Primary Search Avalanche rescue

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 10:14:07 GMT

The goal of the primary search is to receive a signal. Period. If you switch your transceiver to search mode and receive a signal, you have already completed the primary search.

Tree line Alps

Thu, 29 Jan 2009 11:38:45 GMT

Alpine Tree line
German Alps 1800 m
Swiss Alps 2100 m

Freeride Skis

Tue, 27 Jan 2009 13:11:04 GMT

These are the type of Skis you should use when you have already mastered everything that the Ski area had to offer. They are excellent in tough conditions. Freeride Skis float through Powder Snow, cut through Crud Snow, and even slice through Slush Snow. This type of Skis is suited for advanced, expert race skiers.

Freestyle Skis

Tue, 27 Jan 2009 13:05:08 GMT

Freestyle Skis are Special Skis used, obviously, in Freestyle Skiing. Each type of Freestyle Discipline, or any Skiing Discipline for that matter, requires its own type of Ski.

Cross Country Skis

Tue, 27 Jan 2009 12:59:25 GMT

Skis in Cross Country Skiing are very thin and light, and have slightly straight Ski Edges most of the time. Like in Telemark Skis, the binding in a Cross-country Ski attaches only at the toe.

Telemark Skis

Tue, 27 Jan 2009 12:55:00 GMT

Telemark Skis are downhill or touring Skis. The Binding in a Telemark Ski attaches only at the toe.

Slope closed

Fri, 23 Jan 2009 20:40:38 GMT

Black colour = Difficult Slopes

Fri, 23 Jan 2009 20:10:47 GMT

Runs which the maximum values for red slopes exceed, are
designate black.

Red colour = Medium Difficult Slopes

Fri, 23 Jan 2009 20:04:27 GMT

Red Runs allowed a maximum of 30% cross and downhill slope angle, with the exception of short parts in the open terrain.

Blue colour = easy slope

Fri, 23 Jan 2009 19:58:03 GMT

Blue Runs allowed a maximum of 25% cross and downhill slope angle, with the exception of short parts in the open terrain.

Equidistance

Fri, 23 Jan 2009 10:29:43 GMT

Equidistance is the elevation height between 2 Contour lines

1:25000 map

Fri, 23 Jan 2009 10:26:17 GMT

On a 1:25000 map correspond 4 cm to 1 km in reality, also know as a 4cm map

1:50000 map

Fri, 23 Jan 2009 10:26:17 GMT

On a 1:50000 map correspond 2 cm to 1 km in reality, also know as a 2 cm map

Contour line

Wed, 21 Jan 2009 09:55:36 GMT

Contour lines are curved or straight lines on a map describing the elevation of a current point on the topographic map.

Touring (Ski mountaineering) Bindings

Mon, 19 Jan 2009 09:38:58 GMT

For ski mountaineering there is a special combination of the automatic release and the Nordic binding. They fixated on the front, while the heel remains free, and can be used for the descent when turned into a normal ski binding

Gerd Reiss

Thu, 15 Jan 2009 12:38:36 GMT

My climbing and ski tour friend for many years. Gerd is authorised climbing instructor from DAV and one of by best friends.

Pit Schubert

Mon, 12 Jan 2009 13:44:15 GMT

He is the author of numerous publications on mountaineering and climbing safety which have been translated into many languages.

Ski helmet

Thu, 08 Jan 2009 13:26:39 GMT

A Ski helmet should nowadays be standard equipment. 15% of all injuries by skiing are head injuries

Aspect

Mon, 05 Jan 2009 13:49:31 GMT

Direction into which a slope faces as indicated by compass direction of the fall line. E.g. a north slope faces to the north direction

Couloir

Mon, 05 Jan 2009 13:48:34 GMT

Steep, narrow gully bound by rocks on either side. Often containing rubble/screed. Terrain that is prone to accumulate wind drifted snow.

Gully

Mon, 05 Jan 2009 13:40:49 GMT

Usually a steep, elongated, eroded trench where wind transported snow may accumulate.

Firn

Mon, 05 Jan 2009 13:33:00 GMT

Partially compacted granular snow that is the intermediate stage between snow and glacial ice. It is formed under the pressure of the overlying snow by the processes of compaction, recrystallization and melting. These processes take about one year.

In colloquial German also used for a softened surface crust.

Distress sign for the helicopter pilot

Mon, 29 Dec 2008 16:47:59 GMT

Yes = I need help / No = I need no help

Alpine distress signal

Sat, 27 Dec 2008 23:50:27 GMT

The Alpine distress signal traditionally consists of a signal from a whistle or torch which is repeated six times in the minute (every ten seconds). It is to be repeated after one minute of break in same manner.
The reply to such a signal is given with three indications per minute (every 20 seconds) and likewise repeated after one minute of break. Thus it can be confirmed to the person/party in trouble that its distress signal was received.

Deutschen Alpenverein e.V.

Thu, 27 Nov 2008 09:31:44 GMT

As on 9 May 1869 the German Alpine Association (DAV) as "Common citizen Mountaineering Association" was launched, didn’t the founding fathers still nothing from the long-term success of their idea. Today is the German Alpine Club with 800,000 members of the well-largest mountain sports in the world.

windward slope

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 11:06:13 GMT

Slope facing the wind

Lee slope

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 11:02:19 GMT

Slope facing down-wind where additional snow is deposited. Snow deposition can exceed several times the average snow depth. It is a terrain that is prone to accumulate wind drifted snow.

wind speed

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 10:48:12 GMT

low: 0 – 20 km/h

moderate (incl. moderate to strong): 20 – 40 km/h

strong (incl. strong to very strong): 40 – 60 km/h

very strong (also strong storms): 60 – 100 km/h

hurricane: > 100 km/h

shady slope

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 10:43:50 GMT

Slopes in the shade, not hit by the sun, typically north-facing slopes.

breakable crust

Mon, 10 Nov 2008 13:13:51 GMT

Hard snow surface that breaks when stepped upon