Anyway, what I’m really saying is that you will eat wonderfully at these places in that Michelin-starred way, but I’d like to move on to say a bit about the few places that I eat with any regularity. The place nearest to home that we go to is Cervecería Juan on calle Islas Canarias, 60, where they have amazing and cheap seafood and other dishes, and where the owner, presumably Juan, rules the roost with great panache. Rather than issue a bill, he looks at your table and announces a sum of money. I’m never quite sure whether I should be glad to be paying so little or that I should feel he’s making a comment on my scruffiness. Anyway, it’s small, it’s neighbourhood, it’s always full.

I also like Lágrimas Negras on Av. Francia and it’s younger sister restaurant Cómo Quieres Que Te Quiera on Av. Serrería, for their wines by the glass, their knowledgeable enthusiasm and their adventurous menús del día. Here is where I often find myself at semi-work lunches, meeting people for the first time and wanting to be in elegant surroundings but not appear too flash. I find myself at L’Azud further down Av. Francia for much the same reasons.

The happening neighbourhood of Valencia in gastronomic and other terms is definitely Russafa. It’s always good to dine around here as there’s inevitably a bar nearby for before and/or afterwards. Calle Sueca is the arterial street, and on this street we go to several places. La Lluerna for it’s fabulous wine list and even more fabulous wine-pricing strategy, that amounts to a standard 3-4 euro mark-up across all prices rather than the usual 100% or more – be sure to make a reservation as it’s getting more and more popular. We are also great fans of the Chinese restaurant at calle Sueca 65, great food at incredible prices, and my wife gets to practice her Chinese to the hilarity of the staff and other diners. Everything’s good, but you could go off menu and ask about their fiery spiced chicken with nuts, the oysters are good value and tasty, too. On this same street is the smart Italian Il Ritrovo and in calle Cádiz parallel you’ll find Basilico. I’d also recommend wandering around the neighbourhood and dropping in wherever takes your fancy.

Everyone knows Casa Montaña down in El Cabanyal towards the sea. This is a grand old tavern with more modern dining area, great wine list and high quality traditional, old-fashioned tapas, which can add up in price if you really get stuck in. I go heavy on the wine and less so on the food.

Finally, I urge everyone who visits Valencia to go to L’Albufera to take a boat ride and enjoy the birdlife on this huge lagoon, Spain’s largest lake. The paellas in El Palmar are decent tourist fare, but I recommend that before or after the boat you head to El Saler and Casa Carmina, where I was taken first the technical secretary of the regional rice authority, no less, he insisting that it was the best rice restaurant around, and I see no reason not to agree with him.

There’s no accounting for tastes, but those are some of the restaurants where I take people who come to visit us, and here I offer them to a broader public for consideration. At least the bill shouldn’t be too hefty if you hate them. I like to kick-start the evening with a swift daiquiri in the Aquarium, where the regular customers may look fairly ancient, but they are no fools and they know that here they make the best cocktails around.

Cheers,

John Maher

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Like Gabriella in Barcelona, I too have received several emails wondering what my ideal foodie day in Lisbon would consist of. And although Lisbon is comparatively smaller than Barcelona, the options for encountering incredible food and wine experiences are both various and plentiful. So allow me to take you on a tour of Lisbon taken primarily from my experience visiting the city 3 years ago by none other than a local native Portuguese. In this tour, you’ll explore Lisbon’s high-end, riverside district of Belém (pronounced “buh-lime”) followed by a tour of Alfama, and ending at Sao Jorge’s castle at sunset.

We begin our day with a simple, yet typical, Portuguese breakfast at one of the many pastelerias generously positioned throughout the city. And to our great fortune, you can find the same fair for about the same price in more or less the same setting; hence, you can’t lose if you just walk to the closest pastry shop, which shouldn’t be more than a hundred yards away from wherever you are staying. (Flickr photo by dessa.)

Once you’ve savored your deliciously sumptious breakfast, get on the metro and take the blue line down to Terreiro do Paço, which brings you out by the riverfront and near Praça de Comercio. Normally, this is a great place for photographs, but unfortunately, the plaza is going through some necessary repairs at the moment. No worries though, because you’re going to hop on the giant #15E tram that stops in the plaza and heads towards Belém! The trip will take you approximately 20-30 minutes ride. Don’t get off at the Belém stop, however, but the following one, Mostreiro dos Jeronimos (Jeronimos Monastery), planting you directly infront of this historical and beautiful monastery. This is one of the most astounding and breathtaking visions you’ll experience in Lisbon, and absolutely worthy of your visit.

But if you want a faster and more scenic trip to Belém, rent a GO-CAR! This American imported tour company located just off Comercio Plaza on Rua dos Douradores has a 2-person, yellow motorized cars for rent that allow you to take GPS-guided tours throughout the city in less than half the time it would take you on foot and public transport. And on its Belém tour, you drive down the riverside passing several monuments along the way, including the Mostreiro dos Jeronimos. And when you feel inspired to stop, simply park the car, lock your things in the trunk and go explore whatever catches your eye.

Transportation aside, after you visit the Mostreiro dos Jeronimos, cross the street, passing through the garden, and head towards riverfront (there’s a walking tunnel that goes under the train tracks) to visit the Monument of the Explorers. This monument is renowned for its magnificent sculpture work of celebrated Portuguese explorers. But the secret to this sculpture is the stairwell leading up to the rooftop, allowing you an incredible view of the city and the river! This is a must-do for some great photos. After the Monument of the Explorers head down the riverfront to visit the Belém Tower, the old military naval tower that was once located in the middle of the river back in the day.

By 1 pm you should be ready for lunch, which the Portuguese typically enjoy earlier than the Spanish (2pm) but later than the English (12pm). So head back over to the Jeronimos Monastery and go in the direction you had come from Lisbon on the main road with the park to your right. On that side facing the park, you’ll find a long row of traditional Portuguese restaurants with outdoor seating. Somewhere in the middle of the row, you’ll find Restaurant Cais de Belém, which in my opinion has the best outdoor seating and service. There, enjoy a relaxing Portuguese lunch of whole, fresh grilled fish with a bottle of crisp and refreshing Portuguese white wine or Vinho Verde. (Photo by Sean Munson)

After lunch walk back across the street to have your dessert and coffee or glass of Port at the famous Pasteis de Belém to savor their historically popular egg tarts. You can assume there will be a line, but it’s worth it! Afterwards, hop on the tram again (or your Go-Car) to head back into downtown Lisbon and get off at the last stop in Praça de Figueira. Take some time to walk around the plaza, while taking advantage of the adjoining plaza Praça de Rossio for some great photo opportunities. You’re also in luck this time of year because Oct-Jan. is chestnut season in Portugal! So you’ll find several street vendors parked all around these plazas selling fire-roasted chestnuts wrapped in newspaper for 2 euros a dozen. These make for a toasty-warm delicious snack to munch on along your way as you go back to Figueira Plaza to take the #37 bus (or the Go-Car Alfama tour!) up to São Jorge Castle.

Now you can actually visit the Castle on Sunday mornings for free, but for only 5 euros, you can visit it in the late afternoon, which is the ideal time to catch the blushing sunset blanketing the city. If you still have a bit of light left after the castle, walk down to the main road that goes through Alfama and get on the old- fashioned #28E trolley, this time for a scenic ride through the rest of Alfama (or finish your Go-Car tour) then continue on it back down.

Finally, for the rest of your evening, there are several choices, and like Gabriella said about Barcelona, it depends on your energy level. Therefore, I suggest the following:

High Energy: Continue on the #28E trolley up to the trendy Bairro Alto neighborhood (get off at Praça Luis de Camões) and enjoy a tapas like dinner at Garrafeira Alfaia and Bairru’s Bodega Wine Bars then do some late-night shopping at Bairro’s funky, off-the wall boutiques. Once the shops close, stay in Bairro for some outdoor bar-hopping and try some of Lisbon’s coolest twists on a Caipirinha. Like a Morangoska, a Caipirinha is made with vodka and fresh strawberries. The other option is to try a CaipiNegra, a Caipirinha made with “black” vodka, which is flavored blueberry. If it’s raining, check out the Associação Loucos & Sonhadores or the “Wild Lunatics and Dreamers Association” located on Travessa do Conde de Soure 2 in Bairro Alto for some late night philosophical conversations in an underground eclectic setting. (Photo by Ryan Opaz)

Medium Energy: Take the blue and red line metro to Expo Plaza and walk to Casino Lisboa for dinner at Suite Airoldi which offers dozens of mini-dishes and tapas-like portions in a lounge, “hotel suite” designed dining room with a dance floor. Finish off the night by catching a live performance at the casino, or simply continue your evening stroll along the water’s edge.

Low Energy: Stay in the Alfama neighborhood and walk down towards the river to Rua de São Miguel, considered the Fado district. Fado bars/restaurants normally have a minimum cover charge if you go for the music; consequently, it’s worthwhile to skip the cover charge and have dinner there to begin with. The cozy, romantic S. Miguel D’Alfama Restaurant and Fado bar located at the top of that street, and  is my personal favorite for having a traditional Portuguese dinner with Fado music in the background. Owned by the renowned Fado singer, Fátima Moura (who often does some singing herself), it’s worth the visit.

Lisbon is a city full of tradition and old-fashioned charm. Thus, you’ll have no issues finding plenty of experience no matter what you choose to explore. The Portuguese have a very relaxed culture that boasts of their homemade style comfort food and Fado music. In short order, you’ll feel more like a family member than a distant tourist, which only makes you long to come visit again soon.

We’ll be posting more attractive options in the near future and if you any suggestions or alterations to this day’s itinerary, please let us know!

Cheers to Lisboa,

Andrea Smith

For more great, authentic Lisbon hangouts, check out: Spotted by Locals

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Quarenta e 4 is a mix of modern and classical design, blanketed in deep red tones and highlighted by a brilliant crystal chandelier. To be honest, it’s a bit eerie, but welcoming enough that you feel cozy and warm inside. But word to the wise, make sure to opt for the center table versus the benches lining the walls. From our experience, the benches were tight and uncomfortable, especially when the table was pushed farther towards the wall to make room for others.

Yet despite our awkward seating, the food was fantastic. We started with mini bread with sweet tomato bites, a variety of exquisite cured hams, and a small bowl of high quality olive oil to dip our homemade bread. This was followed by an array of tapas, including: grilled wild mushrooms, eggs with asparagus and shrimp and freshly pressed foie gras – each dish prepared to perfection. The foie was as smooth and creamy with a light glaze of PX over the top. One can’t complain with such an incredible spread.

The main courses, which we shared, included an amazing baked filet of Rodovalho, or Turbot. The only drawback was that it was paired with simple vegetable medley and a shrimp rice that was much too salty and rich to complement the exquisite delicate nature of the Turbot. But let it be known that the Turbot was to die for, and regardless of the side dish, nothing could take away from its perfection. The next dish was a fabulous, yet pedestrian, pork filet with a side of scrumptious scalloped potatoes and mixed vegetables. Both dishes, while not eye popping, did show great potential; but I still highly suggest ordering the fish.

3 dessert selections were presented in small portions: a white chocolate cream/mousse, fresh strawberries with a salt-mint ice cream and balsamic glaze, and something called massa de sonhos, which is a donut in shape filled with white chocolate cream. For a person who is not keen on desserts, these were amazing. The strawberry and salted-mint ice cream was by far the best dish, with the salt brightening the flavors of the mint and berries. Bravo.

We ended with a creamy and rich espresso and hopes of returning. As for the wines, we chose 3, and while none were paired particularly well with the dishes, the 1995 Murganheira Reserva was by far the highlight of the show: lightly toasted minerals with lemony whispers and dark honey after thoughts. I would have drank this through the entire meal, and it reminded me that Portugal is capable of making some of the finest Sparkling wines around.

Cheers,

Ryan Opaz

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An frequently overlooked ingredient, when you come to Spain, is pork cheeks. They tend to be on most menus in some form or another, and curiously, they’re often the cheaper plate. Yet despite their thrifty price, they taste like pure heaven. The meat tends to be quite tough, and therefore, you need to cook them longer, allowing the wine, herbs or whatever your using to braise them in to suck up every morsel of flavor to create a rich decadent experience.

The meat literally falls off the bone – if your lucky enough to have them served on the bone – while remaining lightly firm with a sweet tenderness that makes any tenderloin turn its head in shame. I say this recognizing the difficulty Americans will have finding this cut, but if you have a good butcher, suggest they cut you a piece.

Depending on your oven, estimate around two hours for the braise. Simply grab a pot, add some herbs, vegetables and red wine. I might even suggest adding just a touch of chicken or beef stock as well. The key is slow cooking, while adding just enough liquid to the pot so that the ingredients are partially covered at all times.

Simple rules are: lightly dust the pork cheeks with flour, brown them in the pot with some olive oil, and then throw in a mire poix of vegetables. As everything browns pour in a few cups of liquid and cover. Now set that to simmer for a few hours and you will be smiling as the house begins to fill with flavor. At this stage, red wine should be opened. Tonight we enjoyed a bottle of Habla N.4 Syrah from Extremadura. Rich in black raspberry fruit, pairing beautifully with the savory pork cheeks, and showing just a hint of bacon and licorice notes. Granted, I would pair any red with a bit of acidity that can cut through the rich flavors with this meal. Nothing too herbal, but instead, heavier on the red fruits.

I can’t recommend this dish enough. It’s pure comfort food. As the autumn chill settles across the leaf covered soil, we crave foods that stick to your bones and bring a warm and satisfied smile to your face.

So what do you like as the weather changes? What wines do you turn to? What is your fail safe comfort food recipe this autumn?

Till Soon,
Ryan Opaz

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Our appetizers began with Bunyols de bacallà, or cod “balls”, containing a juicy center with creamy fish goodness oozing out the sides. This was a fish fritter I could fall in love with! Next up, a large plate of the renowned Spanish Jamon de Iberico, thin and perfectly tantalizing. Clearly, my lunch was off to a great start!

The main course featured a creative take on the classic Pulpo a la Gallega, where poached potatoes was blended with crushed and fresh flowers. Tender octopus was served perfectly salted and cooked to perfection without losing its moisture. I fought to lick my plate with the finest dignity. But it was the next dish that was to shock and awe the masses. To be clear, I am a devout lover of all things Offal, but sweetbreads have always hit a heart chord for me. Typically presented as small crisp nuggets served as a starter or side; on this particular occasion, they were not only large, but perfectly crispy on the outside and creamy within, covered with what I love most about this time of year in Catalunya, wild mushrooms. Well done, well done!

As for the wines, I would have preferred them in reverse. The Prado Enea 2000 from Muga (too bad they only had the ‘01 in magnum, incredible stuff), which would have been delightful with the soft center of the sweetbread, but still held its charm with the rich cod Bunyols. This was followed by a 2004 Redoma from Neipoort, a wine that screams “essence of douro” with tobacco flavors layered over violets and dark berry foundations. In the end, I opted to finish my sweetbreads and sip the Redoma as I reflected on the meal.

Unfortunately, as my host needed to catch his flight, we skipped dessert and coffee. However, although the meal was interrupted by business negotiations, the incredible flavors were far from muted. Their subtlety and precision were not only apparent but appreciated. I will return soon, but this time, for a more leisurely stay.

In other news, we have a client as most of you know named Quevedo. We don’t usually talk about clients for obvious problems of objectivity, but now that the disclosure part is out of the way, I have to share something that I feel is both exciting and important for you to hear about.

This year, Quevedo has been streaming online a large portion of their harvest, as a result of an initiative between their winery and the local government of S. Joao de Pesqueira. This in and of itself was a fantastic project, and we were elated to see them do it, but the real magic came at the Boutique Wineries Tasting last week in London. Due to a Superman effort from both Quevedo and S. Joao de Pesquiera, we were able to project the harvest live on a 20+ ft screen. I believe this was the first time, and only time, that the Port Wine Harvest has been live broadcasted 800 miles away from its source with professionals from around the world tasting wines while feeling as if they were at the harvest. We experienced wine fermenting in the barrels, brandy added to the Port to stop fermentation and the harvesters in among the vines manually picking the grapes. And on top of it all, this included a short interview with Oscar on skype video talking about how the project came together. And although this was a Catavino inspired project, it was the team of Filipe Carvalho and Oscar who made it happen. Make sure to go Oscar’s site to catch what’s left of the live harvest, in addition to catching a few replays here and here. (small capture of the live video below)

Overall, the 2009 Iberian harvest has been continuously reported as a strange one. Early grape picking has led to high sugar levels and unripened seeds.  Combine this with heavy rains in a large part of the peninsula, and you’ve got the making of a so so vintage. That said, in 4 months time, when we start tasting barrel samples and early bottlings, there will be fantastic surprises – there always are! Looking forward to the discovery process!

Till Soon,
Ryan

PS: I have some lovely photos of the meal on my new N97 nokia phone, but because this phone does not work, I sadly can’t get them off the device. Seriously, DO NOT BUY THIS PHONE. It is very very problematic, and from all I can tell no one is having a good time with it. Read my review here

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Bread baking in Portugal is just as an important part of the culture as is wine, cheese and pastries. And even though most Portuguese consume all of these on a daily basis, bread is the only one that plays an integral part to every meal, consisting of the entire meal in some regions! It’s also safe to say that encountering stale, unappetizing bread is a rarity when dining at a restaurant or cafe, as a server can simply walk across the street to the nearest bakery and pick up a bag of fresh rolls for under a euro! It is also considered a cultural faux-pas to buy pre-packaged “Wonder” bread in the supermarket when you have a huge variety of fresh bakery bread to choose from for less than half the price.

To exemplify the Portuguese passion for bread, let’s take a peek at a video (attached below) of a 70 year-old traditional Alentejo baker, one of the oldest in the region, who has been making a specialty bread from the city of Vidigueira for over half a century. She walks us step by step through the bread-making process, commenting on the importance of adding pureed potato and orange juice in order to impart a distinct flavor to the bread. She also highlights the fact that when the wood burning oven hits that ideal temperature, your dough had better be ready, as time is of the essence! Twenty years ago she would make over 1,000 loaves of bread a day, but now 50-60 is sufficient as a result of the unfortunate decrease in demand. Her daughter diligently works alongside her rolling out the dough, fully intending to carry on the family business; and it’s with their perseverance that traditional bread-making still goes on today.

Of course every region of the country has their own type(s) of traditional bread; so many in fact that we cannot possibly cover all of them here. Instead, I will highlight some of the most renowned specialty breads, as well as the various preparations in which the Portuguese enjoy their bread throughout the day!

To That Wonderful Aroma of Fresh-Baked Bread,

Andrea Smith

Note: The Portuguese word for bread is pão, but as you will read below, not all breads are called bread. Some breads are called cake, due to a particular preparation and/or texture. Additionally, not all foods called “bread” are actually bread. For example, Pão de Lo is actually a type of sponge cake.

Bread For Breakfast

It you’re having breakfast out in Portugal, head to a café where you can order a torrada, or toast, made from thick slices of fresh bread drenched in butter. There is also fatias douradas or “golden slices”, the Portuguese equivalent to our French toast; made virtually the same way but soaked separately in milk then egg, fried then coated in cinnamon and sugar but eaten the same way as toast, dry without syrup.

Notable Regional Breads

Pão de Centeio “Rye Bread” (Tras-Os-Montes) This is a dark rye bread from Northern Portugal that is so dense, it is sometimes referred to as pão de quilo or “1 kilo bread”. It is made from farinho de moleiro or stone miller’s flour of a very compact grain, which gives it a special flavor and has less gluten than wheat.

Broa de Milho (Tras-Os-Montes) Since wheat is difficult to grow in the harsh northern soil, bakers make another very dense corn bread using 3 parts corn to 1 part buckwheat. As expected, the bread has a yellow interior and a very rich, hearty flavor making it a much-loved bread among the Portuguese. It’s great slathered in butter or with cheese.

Pão Alentejano (Alentejo) Made from wheat of a compact grain, this bread is somewhat dense but not nearly as heavy as the breads of the North. Also known as Pão de Cabeça “Head Bread” because of the large lump that pops out of the top of the bread when baked. This head was used like a pot cover in the olden days when workers used to take it to work with food filled inside. Pão Alentejano bread is not only a great bread on its own, but is also used as the main component in several traditional Alentejo dishes, such as Açorda, a traditional dish throughout the country composed of predominately soaked, mushy pieces of bread – the texture varying for each region. The Açorda á Alentejana is prepared as a soup with large pieces of this bread mixed with garlic, cilantro and poached egg in broth. Another bread dish that is exclusively from Alentejo is Migas, an entrée which is literally soaked bread crumbs that are fried up with butter and served with pork ribs and choriço. Migas is also prepared in a sweet version- Migas Doces, made with cinnamon, egg yolks and sugar instead.

Meaty Breads

Pão com Chouriço Originally from the central region of Ribatejo, this bread is made all over the country. The texture of this wheat bread has a smoother consistency from the dough being whipped in a machine and later formed into rolls and filled with Portuguese sausage. Pão com Chouriço is the Portuguese substitute for our hot dogs, as they are sold at sports events, on the beach, carnivals, festivals and is great as a late night snack.

Bola de Carne This soft, pan-baked wheat bread is made with ham, bacon and large-sized chouriço (sausage). It’s a great bread to serve as an appetizer in the colder months, especially around Christmas.

Holiday/Celebration Breads (Sweet)

Bolo de Ferradura From the west and central Ribatejo regions, this bread is slightly sweet flavored with anise and lemon. Commonly referred to as bolo-de-noivos or “bride’s cake”, the bread is formed into tiny little horseshoe shapes and is normally given as a gift from the bride to her guests at the wedding.

Pão-por-Deus The Portuguese don’t really celebrate Halloween, but they do celebrate the day after, which is the Catholic holiday All Saints Day. And on this day, they celebrate a version of of trick-or-treat, where the children in rural villages go around asking for pão-por-deus or “bread for God” with their typical handmade bags. In return, people give them sweets and a “broa” called broa de pão-por-deus, which is different from the pastry, pão de deus. The bread is similar to the Ferraduras recipe, but they add raisins and pine nuts to the mix.

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• Where can we stay that is both affordable and authentic?
• What are the local restaurants that you enjoy, featuring traditional cuisine?
• Is there a wine or gourmet shop that you frequent?
• Can you suggest any charming streets, neighborhoods, museums or local sites that are worthwhile of our very short stay?

In lieu of these questions, I’ll be posting a few options over the coming months that might be appealing depending on your mood, energy level and desire. Today’s option takes you on a circle from Plaza Catalunya down the Barceloneta up through the Born district, with a quick jaunt to the Gothico and ending back at square one with a few optional detours for those with both time and energy.

So, it’s 9am, the sun is pooling a beautiful golden light upon the Plaza Catalunya, and your rearing to go. After doing a little 360 turn around the Plaza, taking in the architecture, the bustling international activity and the sumptuous statues, head to the top of Las Ramblas and begin your stroll. “Rambla” is Arabic for “dry stream’, and in the early Medieval period, this famous street was a gully with a storm fed stream, filled with runoff water from Collserola and marked the boundaries of the city. The stream was also used as both a moat and sewer, eventually becoming known as the Caganell, or s–t stream. Over the centuries, this stream became rather unappealing, as you might imagine, forcing inhabitants to fill in stretches of the gully, and consequently, naming it ‘Las Ramblas” referring to the five ‘ramblas’ which make up the street: Rambla de Canaletes, Rambla dels Estudis, Rambla de Sant Josep, Rambla dels Caputxins and Rambla de Santa Monica. It wasn’t until the mid 18th century when this gorgeous tree lined street became the bustling promenade we know today.

Halfway down Las Ramblas you’ll stop for a mid morning bite at the internationally famed La Boqueria. Informally created in 1701 as a gathering spot for local farmers to sell their produce, it wasn’t until 1840 that the first official stone was laid. As you meander through the market, smell the fresh flowers; ogle the vast fish and seafood stands; marvel at the plethora of tinned food, meat, bird and game; taste the perfect pyramid of fruits and vegetables; and inhale the fresh herbs, breads and pastries. Then stop in either El Quim or Bar Pinotxo for a plate of calamare, chipirones, patatas bravas or any other of their delectable treats, paired with a refreshing glass of cava. Top off your meal with a cafe solo before strolling out the Boqueria and into El Celler de la Boqueria, a quaint and cozy wine shop just east of market.

When you’re finished perusing their shelves, continue down the Rambla, keeping your personal items under close watch, towards the massive statue of Columbus. Hang a left and hug the port taking in the sites and smells of the sea. Here you can buy handmade crafts from local merchants, sit and watch the boats rock to and fro from the gentle coastal winds, or find one of the many street musicians playing everything from ragtime to reggae.

As 2:30 slowly creeps up on you, begin heading inland toward the Born district, where you will stop and dine at Vila Vinateca. This tiny little shop is a treasure to taste local cheeses, cured meats, tinned goods and local produce. There are only few tables nestled in the back, and a reservation is highly suggested. You can also choose a wine from their extensive wine shop just across the way to pair with your meal! However, if you can’t sneak in with a reservation, check out Calpep or 7 Puertas – both traditional, yet slightly pricey, cuisine renowned for their seafood.

As afternoon falls into evening, your choices become plentiful! Depending on your energy level, I might suggest doing one of the following:

High Energy: Check out St Maria del Mar, grab a drink at La Vinya del Senyor, then snake your way through the Gothic Quarter until you find yourself in Eixample visiting Gaudi’s famous Casa Mila and Casa Batllo, then dine at Tapas C24. Mind you C24 can be smoky and have a long wait, but we’re suckers for their wine selection and rabbit rib tapas.

Medium Energy: Again, go to St Maria del Mar, hit the Picasso Museum, explore the Gothic Quarter than dine at Restaurante Pla, or at the oldest restaurant in Barcelona, Can Culleretes.

Low Energy: After the Cathedral (clearly you can tell it’s a must see for us), have a drink at La Vinya del Senyor, shop in the Born and dine at Moma Cafe (on the Raval side of Doctor Dou), El Xampenet or Euskal Basea – a low key Basque restaurant located just northwest of the of La Vinya del Senyor on Carrer de l’Argenteria.

Finally, your evening choices are vast, but there are two in particular I would suggest. Make sure to see the Fountain show at Plaza Espana. This is an incredible show with synchronized water jets alter in velocity, pressure and color depending on the beat of the music. Despite some rather peculiar song choices, the show is worth your time and taxi ride during the summer months. Otherwise, I would highly suggest a show at the historical Palau de Musica.

This particular day is only one of many, as Barcelona is a living and thriving city, continuously pulsating with an ever changing energy. Each moment I walk along Passeig de Gracia under a pool of shadowy street light, or meander through the medieval labyrinth of the Gothic Quarter, I can’t help but smile. With its dark and undulating mystic, Barcelona will always hold a bright and invigorating feeling for me that I can only hope it also stimulates for others. We’ll post more enticing days in the near future, but if you have any additions or subtractions to our proposed day, never hesitate to chime in! We encourage any and all feedback

And if you need additional cultural advice, don’t forget to check out Table Manners in Spain, and Top 10 Traveling Tips in Spain.

Cheers,

Gabriella Opaz

• Planning A Trip To Lisbon? A Food and Wine Lover’s Perfect Day
• Water Conservation versus Consumption: The Age Old Issue of Ignorace and Habit
• The Scot, the Spanish Cheese Shop and the “Non” Spanish City of Barcelona: Formatgeria La Seu
• Interview with Japanese Wine Blogger Yuko Satake
• Gulas and Txakoli

For many of us, it’s impossible to pick only one ideal Portuguese cheese and wine pairing, as there are several wonderful and interesting combinations to experience. Consequently, I’ve not only listed a few of my favorite pairings at the end of the article, but have garnered the feedback of several Portuguese natives and wine / food enthusiasts alike. So make sure to read on!

But first, allow me to share some “expert advice” on wine and cheese pairings from a non other than a Portuguese wine and food professional.  José Manuel Bento dos Santos is a Portuguese engineer, but is better known as a winemaker and professional gourmand. He is Vice-President of the Academia Internacional de Gastronomia, a Gastronomy Chancellor in the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, member of the Académie des Psycologues du Goût, Chevalier des Entonneurs Rabelaisiennes and Chevalier du Tastevin and a distinguished member of the Confraria do Vinho Porto. He is also the author of Subtilezas Gastronómicas (“Gastronomic Subtleties”) and O Sentido do Gosto (“The Sense of Taste”), which is now a TV show. In Subtilezas Gastronómicas, José Bento discusses the complex connection between wine and food, using mostly Portuguese and French references with recipes listed at the back of the book. Reading the Com Queijos or “With Cheese” (Pg. 67-68) section, I was a little taken aback by his ideal Portuguese wine and food pairings. (Photo from Gourmet Food)

Translated from Portuguese to English, his suggestions are as follows:

“It is so typical to say that cheese and red wine are united like flesh and bone, and it’s of no surprise that in several enology courses I’ve given, the audience was perplexed when informed about the enormous fallacy involving the concept behind cheese and red wine. In fact, the presence of cheese undresses red wine, unbalancing it and giving it an unpleasant metallic taste. It gives the impression that you’re eating a piece of tinfoil. Almost all red wines kill the flavor of hard cheeses and their tannins destroys the palate of creamy cheeses. Try taking a full-bodied red wine and pairing it with a Brie or Camembert. Worse yet, if you use a stronger flavored cheese like Nisa or Castello Branco, same with our Serra, Serpa and Azeitão, the fat effects the palate in such a way that only the unpleasant metallic taste in the wine come through.”

“On the other hand, the absence of tannins in white wines makes them better partners with cheese. Even though a red can be acceptable with a very simple cheese, such as a queijo fresco, a Cheddar brand or a young Queijo de Ilha (São Jorge) that’s not overwhelming on the palate, the fact is that for a great majority of cheeses, white wine is best adapted to its fatty structure.”

So what other types of wine does José Bento recommend with cheese?

“Champagne (or in Portugal-Espumante) is a classic, considered as one of the wines best suited for cheese in general.”

He also mentions Port and Sauternes (or similarly sweet Portuguese Moscatel ) as perfect pairings with blue cheese (or very strong cheese in general).  And last but not least, he recommends one of his own wines, Quinta do Monte d’Oiro 2003 (harvested October 7th) made from Viognier, having “ideal characteristics for combining with some cheeses……like goat cheeses….a marvelous pairing if the aromas of the cheese are brought out by being served warm, pan-fried or oven baked…..also pairs with a Serra or a Serpa…”

I think José Bento makes a good point about pairing white wines with cheese, but I find it hard to completely buy into the theory that most red wines are not suitable with cheese, as many of my favorite pairings involve the two. Although, I’m extremely skeptical about pairing a red with queijo fresco! But to be fair, having paired an aged Serra de Estrella with a full-bodied red, which left a metallic, “tinfoil” flavor resonating in my mouth for ages, I’m sympathetic to his point. So maybe the moral of the story is that we should contrast our wine with cheese: balancing acidity with fat & strong/spicy with sweet, instead of matching in relationship to flavor and body. You don’t have to agree with him, but it is something to consider. Try it out for yourself!

And while you’re experimenting with both wine and cheese, why not add some native cheese accompaniments into the mix! Marmelada, Portugal’s quince paste (marmelo in Portuguese), can be found in both basic and artisanal quality, and is a stellar addition to the mix. Additionally, during the summer, choose from an abundant variety of green melons and fresh green and black figs.

Say Queijo!

Andrea Smith

Favorite Portuguese Food and Wine Pairing – What are yours?

#1: “A Lil’ Stinky But Smooth And Creamy”!
(Azeitão; Serra de Estrella; Amarelo de Beira Baixa)

Andrea Smith: Queijo de Azeitão with a 95’ Douro red.
Nuno Gonçalo Monteiro:“Queijo de Azeitão with LBV or Vintage Port.”
Tiago Henriques: “Azeitão and Douro definitely!  Such as Duas Quintas, Barca Velha and Esteva. All red ones indeed!”
Jose Luís Maçãs: “Queijo da Serra with a White Port ”
Pedro Vital (Marketing Director): “Queijo Serra de Estrella with either LBV Ruby Port or a Douro red, like Quinta da Casa Amarela.”
João (Restaurant Owner): “Queijo Seia (Serra de Estrella Style) and Vinho Verde!”

#2: “Not Too Soft, Not Too Hard And Not Too Stinky”
(Évora; Nisa; Serpa; Pico)

Andrea Smith: Queijo de Pico with a slice of marmelada and any dry white made with Moscatel from the Terras do Sado region.
Vitor Mendes:“Here is my suggestion: Niza or Azeitão cheese, with a nice 2003 LBV Port from Quevedo.”
Nuno Gonçalo Monteiro: “Queijo de Niza with Tawny Port.”
José Eduardo (Cortes de Cima)“DOP Serpa or plain Serpa style with full bodied red Regional Alentejano, plenty of good choices out there”
Jose Luís Maçãs: “Queijo de Nisa with a good Touriga Nacional (if possible also Alentejano)

#3“Hard, Rugged and Nutty”
(São Jorge  or “Queijo da Ilha”; Terrincho)

Andrea Smith: Queijo de Terrincho with a 2005 Red Dão Reserva.
Luis Amaral: “I would go for a nice and spicy Queijo da Ilha (S. Jorge) with a good bottle of Barca Velha ”
Eduardo Pinto: “I have not tasted all the cheeses and wines from Portugal, but I can tell you that my favorite pairing is a Terrincho with Douro red wine.”

#4“ReFRESHing”!
(Queijo Fresco; Requeijão; Portuguese Chèvre; Rabaçal; Picante de Beira Baixa)

Andrea Smith: A traditional pairing- Requeijão mixed with Doce de Abobora (Pumpkin Preserves) and Ruby Port.
Nuno Gonçalo Monteiro: I’ve been trying old (5+ years) Bairrada Whites with sheep and goat cheeses and I really like the pairing.”
*And let’s not forget that even Portugal’s “generic” Flamengo cheese can make a nice pairing!
Vitor Mendes: “I love a much simpler pairing, Flamengo cheese with some marmelada on the top.  I use D. Pedro light. Great cheese, very tasty, extra smooth, fantastic flavor, and with a artisanal marmelada from Quinta do Côro…. Yummy!!!!  Paired with a 10 year old Porto from Khron. I´m a simple man and this is one of favorite desserts.”

• Part 1: The Ultimate User’s Guide to Portuguese Cheese
• Part 2: The Ultimate User’s Guide To Portuguese Cheese
• Spanish Cheese Grommit, Cheeeeese!
• Gourmet Cheese in Madrid
• Impossible Wine and Food Pairings? Wine and Shoe Pairings?

To help get you experience your own Portuguese cheese tasting, I’ve provided a few places where you can order online and have Portuguese cheese shipped to your home:Portuguese Food.com, IGourmet, Marky’s and Amazon.com. These sites don’t offer large selection, so if you find more, please let us know in the comment’s section below. Please be aware that many sites that claim to have Portuguese cheese are actually Spanish, so pay attention to specific cheese names.

Alright, now on to the rest of the cheese!

#3: “Hard, Rugged and Nutty”

(Duro, Seco, Curado, Velho)

From my careful observation, there are very few Portuguese cheeses that are predominately sold in a dry, hard aged style, but, of the few that they do, they do them very well!

DOP São Jorge  or “Queijo da Ilha” (Azores Islands) - The “Island Cheese” of Saint Jorge Island is the largest of the Portuguese cheeses, and the only one made exclusively from whole and raw cow’s milk. Cured and aged for 3 months then formed into large rounds of 8-12 kilos, this cheese requires a minimum of 45% milk fat; whereby, making it very rich.  It’s sold in the rounds or wedges with its look being very similar to Pecorino Romano but the aroma being a lot stinkier…..a mix of stinky and nutty!  But like most stinky cheeses, once you get past the smell, the cheese is quite flavorful, sharp, nutty, buttery, most Azoreans like it for breakfast slapped on a piece of fresh baked bread. São Jorge is commonly produced in a picante style of varying degrees, which is very popular. But be careful, as people have been known to gain a stomach ache or break out in a rash if they consume too much!

DOP Terrincho (Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro) - Originated in the district of Bragança in the far north, this cheese is made from the raw sheep’s milk of the Churra da Terra Quente (Terrinchas) race of sheep.   Cured and aged for a minimum of 30 days but commonly maxed out to 90 days to achieve the velho status, Terrincho is produced in medium-sized rounds of 800-1200 grams with an easy to spot rind of bold orange or brick red.  However, when you get past the hard outer rind, the interior is surprisingly smooth and creamy while still being firm.  The flavor is also very smooth, creamy and nutty and makes it one of the best cheese to be consumed with wine, one of my original favorites!

#4: “ReFRESHing”!

(Fresco, Semi-Curado, Curado)

This category of cheeses includes all white, uneven curd cheeses, ranging from soft to hard with most available fresh or uncured. The main milk and style used is goat cheese, but many choose to mix them with sheep’s milk too. Their flavors are also predominately lighter and “fresher” in flavor than the other categories (with the exception of the last one) and are typically consumed on their own, or as an appetizer during meals or added to salads. There happens to be a very popular cheese brand here called Saloio, which produces almost the entire gamut of cheeses listed below from their Palhais production. They do not have a DOP designation, but I highly recommend their products, as I use them routinely at home.

Queijo Fresco - Fresh cheese or uncured cheese, queijo fresco can be made from cow, sheep or goat’s milk and comes in whole or skim styles.   Prepared similarly to fresh mozzarella but with a much lighter, melt-in-your-mouth texture, the cheese is stored and packaged in small plastic round molds of 60-100 grams filled with water. It is a basic staple in Portuguese meals and is preferably consumed as a side dish for lunch sliced thick and sprinkled with a little salt, pepper and/or olive oil or as an entrada for dinner. I personally find its naturally made with enough salt, and therefore, prefer it plain. Above all, it is always eaten very daintily with a knife and fork!

Requeijão - “Recheese”, the equivalent to ricotta or cottage cheese in Portugal.  It can be made from any type of milk like Queijo Fresco but it is more commonly eaten at the end of a meal mixed with something sweet or as its own dessert.

Portuguese Chèvre –  Recently, the Portuguese have started producing some of their own French-style “Chèvre” and Fines Herbs goat cheese, sold both in small cylinders and logs as well.  Most of the production is done in the northern regions of Minho and Ribatejo. The flavor is just as good as the original, if not better, and of course, sells at a lower price. Another Chèvre-like goat cheese, native to the Minho, is Sto. Isidro made from Alpine goat’s milk.

DOP Rabaçal (Beira Litoral) - Named after the small village near Coimbra, Rabaçal is made from a mix of sheep and goat’s milk and cured for a minimum of 20 days.  Produced in rounds of 300-500 grams, this cheese is often sold as semi-hard or hard but also comes fresh. The flavor is like a typical fresh or cured goat cheese with a little tartness to it.  Other known nearby towns that produce good Rabaçal are Anisão and Penela. Queijo de Tomar is a cheese from Ribatejo that is produced in a similar style as Rabaçal but sold in tiny hard rounds, making it the smallest of the Portuguese cheeses.

DOP Picante de Beira Baixa (Beiras) – The “Spice of Beira Baixa” is indeed one of, if not, the spiciest Portuguese cheese you can find. It’s made from raw sheep or goat’s milk or a mix of the two and produced in larger rounds of 400 grams to 1 kilo with a simple tinfoil wrapping. The color is not actually a true white, it’s more like a “dirty white” to light gray. Warning: Only for serious cheese people, because the flavor is intense! It may not seem so when you first put it in your mouth, but after about 15-20 seconds, a searing mix of black peppercorn and charcoal leaves your mouth with an immensely dry, salty aftertaste.  Picante is a little too much for my taste, however if you’re a fan of salt and adding freshly ground black pepper to most of your food, then this is your kind of cheese!

Don’t miss the third and final part of my Special Report, where locals, natives and overall lovers of Portuguese cheese, give their favorite wine and cheese pairings!

Cheers,

Andrea Smith

• Part 1: The Ultimate User’s Guide to Portuguese Cheese
• Part 3: The Ultimate User’s Guide To Portuguese Cheese
• Gourmet Cheese in Madrid
• The Scot, the Spanish Cheese Shop and the “Non” Spanish City of Barcelona: Formatgeria La Seu
• Iberian Cheese and Wine Pairing – Our Writer’s Comment

There are approximately 15 known styles of Portuguese cheese, most of which have been given the designation of Denominação de Origem Protegida (DOP) ou Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). In the same vein as the DOC or DO for wine, the DOP guarantees that the cheese is produced within the demarcated region using the traditional methods and ingredients.  These cheeses are named and labeled with their city or town of origin and the DOP label of approval.   However, one can find numerous other cheeses produced in the same style that are produced in nearby towns or regions without the DOP designation, and are therefore labeled with either with the larger regional label or simply sheep, goat or cow’s milk cheese of a particular style.  And like wine, many of these “non-DOP approved” cheese are as good, if not better, than their DOP counterparts, and of course, sold at a much lower price.

As I’m a die-hard cheese fan, I’ve come to adore the wide range of Portuguese cheeses available here in Lisbon, but unfortunately, many people are not familiar with the incredibly diversity available when visiting Portugal. Hence, I’ve decided to do an in-depth “special report” to provide you not only with the basics in terminology, but in style and flavor as well. In part 1 and 2, I will give an overview of the most renowned and loved cheeses in Portugal of which the majority are DOP designated. However, instead of classifying them by region or type of milk used, I’ve broken them down into 4 categories, each grouped with cheeses similar in aroma, flavor and texture.

In this post, I will cover 2 of the 4 categories, “A Lil’ Stinky But Smooth And Creamy” and “Not Too Soft, Not Too Hard And Not Too Stinky”. Below I have also included a foreigner’s guide of translated Portuguese cheese terms commonly found on packaging and menus, so that visitors will be able to easily select order or purchase a cheese that’s right for them or their wine without a problem.

The last post will be an accumulation of locals and non-locals interviewed on their favorite Portuguese wine and cheese pairings, which will also include both Catavino’s and my favorites as well.  So sit back, relax and let me introduce you to the real and wonderful world of Portuguese cheese!

Queijo Flamengo: Portugal’s “equivalent” to the generic American cheese*: Artesanal cheeses play a big part in the Portugal’s diet but just like the pre-packaged, pre-sliced yellow American cheese we use in the US for everyday sandwiches, the Portuguese have Queijo Flamengo for theirs.  Flamengo, meaning Flemish in Portuguese, is a direct copy of the Dutch Edam and the most popular style bought in supermarkets around the country.  If you order a sandwich or “tosta” at a local café or restaurant here, this is what you’ll get.  But high quality Flamengo does exist and is sold in wedges or rounds; the most popular brand being Limiano from the city of Ponte de Lima in the northern region of Minho.

Know Thy Cheese Terms in Portugal!

#1: “A Lil’ Stinky But Smooth And Creamy”!

The cheeses I selected for this category all have about the same consistency as soft, (but sticky) butter.  No slicing allowed for these! The traditional and easiest way to serve them is by cutting off the top of the rind and using a spoon to scoop out the cheese. These types of cheese are perfect to spread on crusty bread or cracker. And even though they tend to give off a pungent barnyard aroma, they renowned for their intense and memorable flavors!

DOP Azeitão (Estramadura): Named after its little town of origin, Azeitão is just a 40 minute drive south of Lisbon and is the closest cheese area to visit from the capital. The cheese is made from sheep’s milk, wrapped in vegetal paper and then cured for either 20 days if produced in the summer or 40 days if in winter. The rounds are made on the smaller side, of 100 and 250 gram sizes. The flavor is  strong but tends to be the most palatable of the “stinky” cheeses for many.  Azeitão is also produced in the neighboring towns of Setúbal, Palmela and Sesimbra without the DOP classification, which offers plenty of other culinary delights to savor while you’re there.  I have already mentioned their Tortas de Azeitão and Jose Maria da Fonseca’s Manor House Winery and Tour in previous articles, so there’s no problem finding plenty to see and do here for a great day trip!

DOP Serra de Estrela or “Serra” ( Beiras): Produced in the beautiful “Star Mountains”,  Serra de Estrela is considered one of the best cheeses in Portugal.  Although Serra is made exclusively from sheep’s milk of two native species of sheep, you might also encounter Serra produced with a mixture of sheep and goat’s milk without the DOP classification. The cheese is cured with cardoon flowers, an indigenious mountain plant, and is made into large rounds between 1 and 1.5 kilos, but can be sold in half rounds with its soft core seen oozing out. Serra is also produced in the velho style, which I tend to think is more astringent than the younger version; yet both styles are equally as pungent and perfectly delicious! There are several other towns nearby that produce non-DOP cheeses made in the same Serra style, one commonly known as Queijo de Seia.

-Amarelo da Beira Baixa (Beiras): Called the “Yellow of Lower Beira”, for its distinctly yellow color, this cheese is made from raw sheep and goat’s milk and is aged between 45-90 days.  However, some Amarelo’s are left to age longer and are then labeled and sold as “velho”. The aroma is intense, but once you place a slice in your mouth, the flavor is light and silky. Similar cheeses made in the same region of Beiras are Castello Branco, Idanha-a-Nova and Vila Velha.

#2: “Not Too Soft, Not Too Hard And Not Too Stinky”

(Semi-Duro ou Duro; Curado, Seco)

These cheeses range from a semi-hard and creamy to a hard and dry consistency, with the ones hailing from Alentejo being cured and purified with thistle flowers rather than rennet. The majority of these cheeses are less pungent than the first category, but the flavors tend to be equally as intense.

DOP Évora (Alentejo): This semi-hard to hard cheese is made from raw sheep’s milk.  The core comes out dotted with tiny holes resulting from a long curdling process. Aged over 60 days, it’s produced in small rounds of between 100 and 150 grams, and even smaller queijinhos that tend to be softer and may be preserved in olive oil. The flavor is medium strong, with a savory, black pepper flavor, which intensifies with age.  It is normally served as a tasty entrada (appetizer) in the Alentejo.

DOP Nisa (Alto-Alentejo): Like Évora, this semi-hard to hard cheese is also made from raw sheep’s milk. Similar to the Évora, Nisa cheese also contains small holes, but the flavor tends to be softer with an acidulated edge to it.  Made in the higher region of Alentejo, the cheese is produced in small rounds of between 200 and 400 grams, as well as larger ones of between 800 and 1,300 grams.

DOP Serpa (Baixo-Alentejo): This award-wining cheese of lower Alentejo is made from raw sheep’s milk and aged for a minimum of 4 months to 2 years. The consistency can then range from very soft and creamy to hard dotted with small holes. The rind has a very distinctive brick-orange color, resulting from its regularly brushing with olive oil mixed with paprika and is produced in small to medium sized rounds.  The flavor is a unique mix of strong, spicy and slightly sweet-tart, as a result of the paprika, and has gained distinction from the Slow Food movement as one of the most extraordinary products in the world.

DOP Pico (Azores): Traditionally made exclusively from raw cow’s milk of the grass-fed cows on the island of Pico in the Azores, but some are supposedly now made from a mix of cow and goat’s milk. The cheese is cured and aged for a minimum of 20 days and produced in semi-large rounds of between 650 and 800 grams. The flavor of Pico is very distinct but very smooth and palatable.  It almost reminds me a bit of a slightly smoked, smooth Cheddar or Gouda and is one of my favorite cheeses in Portugal!

Have you tried any Portuguese cheese? And if so, what is your favorite?

Stay tuned for, Part 2: The Ultimate User’s Guide to Portuguese Cheese, featuring “Hard, Rugged and Nutty” and “ReFRESHing” cheese.

Cheers,

Andrea Smith

• Part 2: The Ultimate User’s Guide To Portuguese Cheese
• Part 3: The Ultimate User’s Guide To Portuguese Cheese
• Gourmet Cheese in Madrid
• The Scot, the Spanish Cheese Shop and the “Non” Spanish City of Barcelona: Formatgeria La Seu
• Iberian Cheese and Wine Pairing – Our Writer’s Comment