This cat is being prepared for neutering.

There are many people, myself included, who advocate having their cat spayed or neutered. Despite the ever growing media coverage of having pets spayed or neutered to prevent a feral cat explosion, there are still many people who choose not to spay or neuter their cats and that is their choice.

Too many feral cats is one of the most publicized reason for those advocating the spaying or neutering of cats. In many areas of the country where feral cats exist in large numbers, some neighborhoods are trying to avoid these occurrences by setting up community programs to provide low cost spaying or neutering. This is done with the hope of convincing cat owners to do the responsible thing and have their cat spayed or neutered and I personally applaud this sort of action. We have had the same sort of program running in our small town for many years and I have noticed a dramatic drop in the number of feral cats running wild.

According to 2008 figures put out by The Humane Society of the US, there are around 6,000,000 to 8,000,000 cats and dogs entering shelters each year. Of these animals, 3,000,000 to 4,000,000 are euthanized yearly and around the same number adopted to families. Interestingly, around 30% of dogs are reclaimed by owners but only 2-5% of cats are reclaimed. There are 4,000 to 6,000 animal shelters in the US to service all these feral or lost animals.

The cats that are euthanized are usually not old or ill, although some may be injured. Most are healthy and often you will find young cats, even kittens being abandoned. Their only crime is that there are not enough loving homes for them and with no owners to house and feed them, the relatively few shelters there are become overcrowded it is necessary to then euthanize them to solve this problem. In order to avoid adding to the overpopulation problem, all cats adopted from a shelter are spayed or neutered before you can take them home.

Life can be hard for cats in a shelter.

There are benefits for cat owner who has their cat spayed or neutered. Many cat experts and vets state that a cat that has been spayed or neutered will become a better pet. They are usually better behaved and more responsive to humans. Vets report that cats live longer and have fewer medical problems once they have been spayed or neutered. Because your spayed or neutered cat will be healthier, there will be fewer visits to the vet, a cost saving for you.

Many cat owners find that their spayed or neutered cats are less likely to spray, which is an annoying and smelly trait. Cats are also less likely to roam looking for mates if they have been altered.

Spaying of female cats is usually done around six month of age and general anesthesia is used during the operation. Neutering a male cat should be done by the time the male cat is 6 months of age.

Many owners of specialized pure breds will want to breed from their cat. Reputable breeders will belong to an organization and be certified to breed. Those owners will
not allow their pure bred cat the opportunity to get pregnant to just any male cat. They are closely watched and mated accordingly.

Some individuals choose not to spay or neuter cats based on belief that they should remain unaltered and in their natural state. This, of course, is their right.

To many caring owners, the decision to spay or neuter a cat is that it is something that should be done as soon as the cat is old enough. Remember, a spayed or neutered cat is usually healthier, which means your cat will be around for you to enjoy for many years.

Could an automatic litterbox be frightening your cat and contributing to those unpleasant cat urine smells in your home?

There is a distinctive cat urine smell that signals your cat has stopped using the litter box. Sometimes it will be in the bedroom or on the bed, in the lounge room on on your children’s clothes. Many cat owners are often puzzled as to why their cat suddenly stops using their litter box and uses somewhere else. I have listed below some tips that can help you solve this problem quickly and easily.

The litter box is the first thing you should check. Make sure it is in a quiet room in your house. Quite a few people I know put them in their basement or laundry and leave the door open. This not only creates a secluded area for your cat but also helps to keep those unpleasant cat urine smells to a minimum in the rest of the house.

I strongly suggest using an area that is tiled as it will be much easier to clean if there are accidents.

If your cat is not making it to the litter box finding out why is of paramount importance.

• Has the box been moved to a high traffic area recently?
• Does the door get accidently closed by children, another pet or wind?
• Are there other pets that could be frightening your cat? A noisy dog next door?
• Is it near a washing machine or furnace. Sometimes if they start up when your cat is using the litter box the noise could frighten your cat.
• Does the box need cleaning more often?
• Is a new litter being used or does it have a heavy scent?
• Has the depth of the litter in the box changed? Some cats like their litter deep, others shallow.
• Has your cat outgrown the litter box and therefore needs a larger one?
• The box is too hard to enter and exit. This can especially be an issue for older cats.
• Have you changed the box itself?
• If it is an enclosed box, could the odor be off putting for your cat?
• Is it a self cleaning litter box? Could this be frightening your cat?

The only time I would suggest putting your cat’s food and water near where they eliminate is to discourage them from using a particular area. If your cat is continually eliminating in an area that can’t be closed off, try feeding your cat there. The strong smell of its own urine will discourage them from using that area if it wants to eat.

Remember, when you find that very unpleasant cat urine smell in your bedroom, your cat is trying to tell you of a problem. It is up to you to find out what the problem is and help both you and your cat. An excellent resource I use often is Liz Barton’s *Cat Secrets Revealed. She has a whole section on litter box issues. Dr Andrew Jones in his *Veterinary Secrets Revealed gives you possible causes as well as alternative therapies you can use on your cat. I refer to both books often when dealing with my own cats.

* Please be aware that if you purchase any book from my website, I will receive a commission from the author. Due to the changes in the FTC rulings, it is now necessary for me to include this information on my website.

If this was my cat I'd have it checked for feline kidney disease. It does not look well.

Many people assume that an old sick cat automatically has feline kidney failure. This is not necessarily correct and other potential health problems need to be investigated so the correct treatment can be implemented.

As is the case in humans, the kidneys are very important as they are, on the whole, the waste disposal systems of the body. They eliminate toxins from the blood and also filter out unwanted waste products from the food you, or your cat, eats.

The better the quality of food your cat eats, the less work the kidneys have to do, and this lowers the chances of problems. Good quality cat food will pay for itself in a healthy and happy cat and lowered vet bills.

There are many symptoms to keep an eye out for if you think your cat may be suffering from feline kidney problems – they include constant scratching, tiredness, frequent drinking (much more than normal) and extra tips to the litter box or outside. Note that none of these symptoms is definitive – they could all be something completely unrelated, so don’t panic if your cat suddenly starts scratching or drinking more than normal. Check first for fleas with the scratching and the temperature if it’s drinking a lot. If these are normal then investigate further.

The safest way to determine how well your cat’s kidneys are functioning is to get your vet to test the blood, urea and nitrogen concentration together with a urine test. Once a year is probably often enough because the earlier you catch a problem, the easier it is to fix and your cat probably should be checked out by the vet once a year anyway. You go to the doctor for a yearly check up don’t you? Prevention is always better (and cheaper) than a cure.

Here are some tips for preventing feline kidney disease and keeping your cat healthy and happy.

1) Only feed your cat high biological value protein food. Twice daily is best.

2) A fat cat is an unfit cat. Exercise before food!

3) Give her/him dietary supplements – crushed garlic that contains potassium is good, as are B vitamins.

4) Make sure there is plenty of fresh water. Change the water in the bowl regularly.

If you think your cat may have feline kidney disease or any other medical problems, I strongly suggest you get a copy of Veterinary Secrets Revealed. It is an excellent resource ebook and I use it often myself.

This beautiful kitten looks as though it has the litter box just behind it.

Training your new kitten or cat to use the litter box is probably one of the most important things to do. In the wild, a cat will scratch a hole in the soil or leaves to go to the toilet. They then cover their waste. This scratching and covering behavior is still strong in domesticated cats, which makes it easier to train them.

When cats have access to a yard – especially one with a garden, they will often prefer to go outside. But if your cat is confined to the house or apartment or there are dogs outside that could frighten your cat, it is necessary to provide him with a litter tray or box to prevent your floor being used for elimination purposes.

The litter tray should be wide and reasonably shallow with vertical sides. This will help to retain the litter when the cat is scratching and digging. Place the litter tray somewhere where human traffic is at a minimum. The laundry is often the place chosen for the litter tray as it is also close to the outside for emptying the litter box. Sand could be used in the tray, but commercial cat-litter is best due to its high absorbency. And cats seem to love using it.

It is never too early to start training your kitten to use the litter box. As soon as he has finished eating and drinking, carry him to the litter box and set him down gently on the litter. At first, keep the food reasonably close to the litter box so he will know where it is. Stay with him until he has eliminated and scratched over it, then praise him and take him out and make a fuss of him. Depending on the age of the kitten he might want to sleep or play a game. This is a great time for bonding with your kitten.

Once the kitten is used to using the litter tray, start letting him walk to it while you walk with him. Let him get used to finding it himself and keep up the encouragement. Make sure the use of the litter box becomes a habit by either taking the kitten after each meal or making sure the kitten does it himself. It is also necessary to make sure your kitten uses the litter tray as soon as it wakes up. My first port of call each morning is the toilet so make sue your kitten gets into that habit too.

As your kitten grows, you can move the food bowl further away from the litter tray, even to a different room. My cats are fed in the kitchen but their litter tray is in the laundry.

Kittens are very easy to train to use the litter box. Older cats will take more time to train but the process is the same. Be prepared that your kitten will have accidents and forget. It is important to clean the area throughly with a strong smelling disinfectant. Also spray some citrus oil or lavendar oil on the area to discourage your kitten from using it again.

You will need to clean out any solid matter from the litter box once or twice a day (depending on how much your kitten eliminates). You can flush this down the toilet. I wouldn’t advocate putting it on the garden as any parasites in the fecal matter could cause problems for other animals or humans if they come into contact with it while gardening. Completely change the litter mixture at least once a week. Experiment with different litters until you find one your cat or kitten likes. If at all possible, encourage them to use a biodegradable litter mixture as it is kinder on the environment. As your kitten grows you can move to a larger litter box.

Training your cat to use the litter box will take a couple of weeks but it is time well spent. The earlier the habit is established the easier it is for everyone.

Cats and people - just who owns whom!

As any cat owner will tell you there can be a dispute about owning a cat and having a cat own you. Depending on the bond that exists between you and your feline friend, this can change daily or even hourly. Cats, according to cats, are superior to any creature on earth. The behaviors exhibited by them illustrates this point clearly. How many cats have you witnessed ignoring their human handlers (until meal time). Have you ever really watched a cat and a dog together? Have you ever seen a dog actually catch a cat? I’ve frequently seen dogs move off with their tail between their legs after an encounter with a cat!

There are many behaviors that a cat uses to communicate with humans. There are the crazy mood changes from pure laziness to absolute happiness. Then there is stalking, pouncing and conquering. the nipping, tail switching, hissing tangle of fur that warns you to keep clear. Unless the tall two legged members of the family wish to live in fear and trepidation, it is wise to learn to interpret the vocalizations and body language of that small furry four legged family member early on in the relationship. In fact, the earlier the better!

Unfortunately when humans fail to understand, interpret and correctly react to the communications of a cat, it is often the cat that suffers. Many of them end up abandoned on the streets or perhaps if they are lucky, they might end up in animal shelters or rescue organizations.

In order for human and cat to co-exist peacefully, successful communication is essential. Just like in any other successful relationship.

Some signs that a cat is being irritated or over stimulated include:

• Tail twitching
• Ears back
• Hair raised
• Lack of purring or sudden stoppage of purring

If the above signs are ignored the cat may choose to grab our attention by nipping at the offending hand if petting was being done or a nip or scratch at any other available area of skin. This nip is really not something the cat does to be mean but is merely a way to attract your attention and to say, “I have had enough of petting”, or whatever the interaction has been between cat and human.

When you see your cat stalking or pouncing, it is exercising a natural instinct to hunt prey. The prey might be a toy, or your hand. However, when this behavior comes out of nowhere can be startling to us humans and we might lash out back. To a cat it is just good clean playful

When a cat has had enough petting, play aggression is not far behind.

aggression and they won’t understand why you’ve reacted like that. Cats usually do outgrow this behavior. Think of it as being like the ‘terrible twos’ in children. Us humans should always be aware of the location of the cat when entering a room so as to be prepared for any cat and mouse games the cat decides to play. If you see the cat in a pounce position be prepared that you just could be the prey. You can redirect this playful aggression before it happens by distracting the cat by tossing a cat toy in the opposite direction even by calling its name. This spoils the “incognito” role of the hunter.

Cats also love to dig. It is just one of those genetic tendency behaviors that allow them to scratch and dig to cover up evidence of litter box elimination that can be carried over into your flower pot or a laundry basket. Use unpleasant (to cats) smells such as citrus products, lavender or mothballs that can be sprayed in these areas to discourage kitty from enjoying these passions.

By using careful observation techniques, you will finally be able to understand your cat and will come to the realization that it really does own you!

I also strongly suggest you try getting hold of a copy of How to Make Your Cat Adore You or Kingdom of Pets: Complete Cat Training. Both are excellent e-books.

Cat food nutrition doesn't mean the food can't be tasty.

Good cat food nutrition is essential for the health of your cat. It is not important what type of food you give your cat – tinned (wet) food, dry food or cook it yourself, however it is important to make sure the food is nutritious, healthy and suitable for the age of your cat.

Kitten cat food is different to adult cat food, just like with humans. They need to have a diet that will promote healthy growth.

Protein, in the form of meat, poultry, fish or eggs, is a very important component of food that will keep your cat healthy.

Many, though probably not all, tinned foods that are labelled as containing chicken, meat or fish need to be carefully checked as to the percentage of that ingredient, and what it is made up of. Some pet food manufacturers have been found to include crushed bone, beaks (of chickens) and offal (the parts such as intestines, lungs, brain, etc) and include that as part of the overall percentage of a particular ingredient.

With tinned cat food you are also paying for the water (which makes up a surprising amount of the total) and cereals to bulk the actual food out. Usually, the cheaper the food the less quality you actually get. If you are not cooking your own cat food, it really is worth it to pay a little extra to know your cat is getting the proper nutrients. It evens itself out as your cat will need to eat less of the more expensive cat foods to remain healthy. There are many single serve packets on the market now and I’ve found these better than the tinned variety. They are cheaper and one packet will feed my two cats each evening. They also contain a little more food per packet and are definitely friendlier when it comes to disposal and landfill.

Cats need variety in their food, the same as humans. Can you imagine being fed chops, mash and peas seven days a week, fifty two weeks a year? You’d get sick of it after the first week. Your cat is the same. Change it around, give dry food (biscuits etc) two or three times a week and a variety of tinned or packet foods the rest of the week. Unless your cat is on a strict diet, dry food (and plenty of fresh water) should be available at all times so your cat can graze. Unlike dogs, a cat will only eat as much as is needed at that time. Many dry cat foods are also fairly carbohydrate rich and cats don’t need too many carbohydrates. Why not occasionally buy some frozen pet food and cook it up. Of course if your cat has special needs such as diabetes, speak to your vet about specialized diet cat food.

Remember, your cat needs a healthy and nutritious diet just as much as you do. By feeding it protein rich food, you are not only saving yourself money on vet bills, you will prolong the life of your cat. Good cat food nutrition is good sense.

Introduce cats the proper way and they can become friends. The cat at the back is 20 years old and the kitten at the front is around 10 months.

When you introduce a new cat to your home, it’s much easier if you can do it while the cats are young. However, this is not always possible. You might take in a stray, or look after a cat for a friend who is away on holiday. Usually, a new cat in the house years more exiting for you and your family than it is for the cat you already own. Cats are normally solitary by nature, though most will also come to accept or eventually tolerate any additions.  Cats can also be very territorial, which is why you should always be careful when you are introducing a new cat to your current cat.

If you are introducing kittens, the entire introduction process can be short, lasting as little as a few hours. Kittens are especially curious, and it won’t take long for them to start playing with their new found friend. Introducing cats to each other also depends on the temperament and personality of each cat.  When introducing a new cat to your current cat, please make sure that you give your current cat plenty of love and attention.  This way, your cat will feel secure and know that he isn’t in competition with your new cat for affection.

When you bring your new cat home, make sure you keep him in a safe room until you have finished the introduction process and feel sure your current cat has accepted the new one. This safe room can be any small room in your home, such as a bathroom, laundry or spare bedroom.   The idea is to use a room that your current cat doesn’t usually go in to.  In this room, you should leave your new cat a scratching post, bed, water dish, litter box, and food dish, as well as some toys.

At first, your current cat may growl and hiss when he stands at the door, trying to tell the other cat that he doesn’t belong. If this happens, just ignore it, as punishing your cat for his behavior will only lead to more problems. Be very careful about picking up your current cat if he is growling as you could end up being bitten or scratched. After a while, your cat will stop this behavior when he is near the new cat’s door, and even appear to be ignoring it. If this happens, you should stroke him and talk to him gently.

If the introduction between your cats is not done correctly, fights can occur.

This is the best time to start introducing them to each other.  The best way to do this is for you to hold one cat and your partner or a friend hold the new cat. I would suggest wearing long sleeves during this process. Have both cats in the same room but a room width apart. You will have to let your cats dictate what happens next but start moving slowly towards each other. If either cat becomes too agitated, then it is time to stop. Keep repeating this is often as you can, until the cats seem calm enough to be able to sniff at each other. When you feel the cats are ready, try putting one of them on the ground. Crouch down with the other cat, so they can get used to the scent of each other. When you feel that the time is right, put both cats on the floor, but stay in the room with them. As they get used to each other you should be able to leave them alone.

Once both cats are used to the scent of the other, you can start to feed them closer together.  To do this, you should keep your new cat in the safe room with the door slightly open, and your first cat on the other side of the door with his food dish. Feed both cats at the same time, and after doing this a few times, they should start eating without any hissing or growling.

You should play with them both often, so they can smell and greet one another in their own way. If they start to fight you should break them up, and give them some time apart. Just like you would with children.

Be careful that your original cat does not try to become the Alpha cat. Signs of this happening can include the original cat pushing the new cat away from his food bowl or off the scratching post or similar. If this does happen, feed the new cat first, while holding the original cat. Same thing with the scratching post, take the Alpha cat off and put the new cat on.

Another potential problem with introducing a new cat to a house is territorial marking or spraying. Your original cat may start spraying, to mark his territory. Depending on the personality of the new cat, it might also do the same thing. While annoying at the time, this behavior won’t last long.

Introducing new cats to each other may take some time, especially getting them fully used to one another, although once they do – they will become playmates for life.  While cats are often solitary, they do love to be social and once the new cat is totally accepted, you will have twice the joy in your home.

]]> http://www.catproblemsresolved.com/cat-behavior/introducing-cats/feed/ 2 http://www.catproblemsresolved.com/cat-behavior/introducing-cats/ http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/CatProblemsResolved/~3/YtVZKKFQ6cA/ http://www.catproblemsresolved.com/cat-behavior/your-cats-natural-instincts-and-behavior/#comments Thu, 16 Jul 2009 05:57:07 +0000 Kathy http://www.catproblemsresolved.com/?p=773

This sort of toy is perfect for teaching a kitten to catch its own prey.

Cats and kittens are a wonderful creatures. They are inquisitive, energetic, and love to play. They can be easily occupied with nothing more than a ball of string, a small ball with a bell in it, a feather on a string or a soft toy. It is so easy to lose an hour or two playing with your kitten or cat and bonding with it. And the more time spent playing with and bonding with your cat, the more love and affection you will receive in return.

The games that kittens love to play are those that will help develop their natural instincts. Games like chasing and pouncing on things help train them to catch their own food, such as mice. Of course, the more practice they have, the better they will become at catching their own food. Be prepared for your kitten to practice on you. Kittens love to hide behind things and leap out at you as you walk past. As kittens, they are not really aware of the significance of what they are doing. To them, it is just a fun game. However it is essential for their growth and maturity that they be allowed to practice this behavior. It is up to you to train your kitten so they don’t hurt you when they are playing. What is fun in a kitten can become very annoying in a full grown cat. A gentle nip from a kitten can become a blood-drawing bite from an adult cat and it is much easier to train a kitten than retrain an adult. They have no way of knowing what is right or wrong unless they are taught.

Like all living things, kittens and cats crave love and safety. They need someone they can trust to provide them with love, and the necessities of life. Kittens, especially, need boundaries set. Unwelcome behavior is such as jumping on the counter or desk, or scratching furniture need to be changed as early as possible. Just like with children, the longer you leave bad habits unchallenged, the longer it takes to change them.

Remember, these are natural instincts that would have been taught by their mother if they had stayed with her. A cat’s natural instincts are crucial for their survival. And it is so much fun watching them and playing with them while they develop these skills.

Stray cats in a garden can be a problem.

If you are having a problem with stray cats in your garden, there are a few tricks you can use to keep them out.  First off, try to make sure there are no gaps in your fence where a cat can squeeze through. However, as cats can jump or climb fences or trees next to a fence, just plugging the gaps won’t necessarily stop them. You could also invest in string or taut wire across the top. Someone in Australia has developed a roller bar to place on top of fences. As the cat jumps onto it, it rolls and the cat loses its balance. Doing this a few times will discourage all but the most determined cat from trying again.

It is a well-known fact that cats don’t like water. There are a few ways you can put this to good use. You could try using a water pistol or spray bottle if you are close by, or you could try turning the hose on them. Most local hardware stores sell motion activated sprinklers. This is a little more expensive, but it doesn’t require you to actually be in your yard with the cats. These sprinklers will detect the cat’s movement and automatically turn on. It shouldn’t take long before the strays get the message. An added advantage of using motion activated sprinklers is that your garden is automatically watered for you. However, this could end up costing you in excess water bills and use up a precious resource.

There are also many devices available that send out high frequency sounds undetectable by human ears. These are designed to deter animals (cats, dogs, mice, rats etc) from coming within range. It’s a bit like you hearing a screeching noise. You’d want to move away from that I’m sure. Just make sure that whatever type you buy is strong enough to cover your garden area. Again, you can find models that only work when they detect motion so you are not always sending out that high pitched noise.

Many people choose to keep a dogs as a deterrent, simply because cats are known to to be frightened of dogs. This is fine if you want to have a dog as a pet but possibly overkill if you are only trying to keep the neighborhood cats out!

Protecting your plants is a different story though there are some tricks that you can use. Try sprinkling mothballs around your plants or borders. You can even sprinkle some along the fence or on your lawn. Cats don’t like that smell. Just make sure than no young children could pick them up and eat them. There are many other repellents that you can use as well such as cayenne pepper, Tabasco sauce, lavender oil, citronella oil, mustard oil, and even lemon grass oil. Why not try sprinkling some curry or mustard powder around the plants. Of course you need to replace this after watering or rain. Experiment and see what works best for you.

You can also use commercial repellents as well though these will be more expensive than what you can find in your pantry.  Commercial repellents also use scents to keep cats away, and shouldn’t be used near any food crops because of their high chemical content. You can probably find several varieties at your local department store. Many of these will fend off other animals from your garden as well. Please, if you are using chemical repellants, make sure young children won’t be exposed to them or possibly eat them. All chemical products can be lethal for young children. Try to find natural repellants in your hardware store.

Why not invest in Kingdom of Pets: Complete Cat Training. You can learn more about ways to prevent stray cats coming into your garden plus a lot more as well. I’m sure it will become a well used resource.

If you have a garden, it can be very frustrating if the neighborhood cats and other animals decide to make your garden their home and fight with your own cat.  Remember it will take some time to train these intruders to stay away. But if you stick with it, you can prevent them from hassling your cat or messing in your garden or crops.

This cat has no problems being stoked on its tummy.

I’m sure you know just how much cats love you to pat and stroke them but have you ever really wondered why they prefer being stroked in some places more than others?

I think that 90% of cats will lift their chin to encourage you stroke it there. Both my cats regularly tilt their head back to make me stroke them under the chin. In fact, both will move their head to wherever they want to be stroked so I don’t even have to move my hand. I can be stroking under the chin when suddenly I’m scratching the top of the nose or behind the ears.

Cats also love to be stroked on the side of their face or scratched at the base of the tail. Cassie in particular will raise her hindquarters to encourage me to scratch there. These areas have sebaceous glands which produce body odors that ‘mark’ where they’re rubbed. Each time you pat or scratch your cat in one of these areas you are effectively being ‘marked’ to let other cats know you’re ‘taken’. Cats also like to find their own scent on people they consider ‘theirs’.

There are many other areas on cats that are very sensitive to touch and cats really enjoy you stroking these areas. The skin of a cat is very sensitive and so are the hairless pads on the feet. These areas of skin and pads are particularly sensitive as they help cats to investigate and be aware of things that are happening around it in the wild.

While most cats don’t mind their body being patted, not many like their paws to be touched although a light massage between the paws is something that many cats enjoy.

Some cats like being rubbed between the pads on their paws.

Keep an eye on your cat’s body language if you have been patting it for some time. If the tail starts flicking rapidly then this is a sign that it might be becoming agitated and it would be wise to stop patting for a while.

Some cats can get a little carried away when you pat them, particularly if you’re stroking them on their underside and they are lying on their back. One moment they can be purring with pleasure, and the next they can be biting and scratching your hand. Often they are just playing and don’t realize that they can be causing some damage to your hands. It is certainly not something that they should be reprimanded for.

Cassie will occasionally give me a little nip to show affection towards me. It is a funny sensation when she does this, it’s almost like she is trying to suck on my hand. She just holds it in her mouth and when I try to remove it, she will gently press down with her teeth to let me know she wants to keep it there.