Having grown up in a family that values two things above all others, travel and education, I have done a considerable amount of traveling by both land and sea. At age seven, my mom and dad packed up the station wagon with my 11-year-old sister and I, and headed west for a 6-week road trip across the country. As we traversed the country, I perfected my map reading skills by following page by page the AAA Triptik route my father had assembled after careful research throughout the winter of 1960-61. I can still picture him in his big brown easy chair by the fire in the living room of our home in Massachusetts, studying the maps and perusing the guidebooks he had ordered from AAA.

Ostensibly the trip was intended to be a camping forage through the state and national parks system. You see my dad worked for Sun Oil Company and throughout the winter preceding our trip the company sponsored a sales contest in which employees could amass “points” to purchase items from an extensive catalogue. So slowly over that winter dad would arrive home with all the trappings necessary for camping. First came the sleeping bags, followed by air mattresses, a Coleman stove and lantern, and his prized purchase, a canvas “boot” that would fit over the folded down tailgate of a 1960 Chevrolet station wagon, creating a space just perfect for a double bed fashioned from two side-by-side air mattresses. That left the back seat for my sister berth, with me on the front seat under the steering wheel.

On our first night out somewhere in New York state, we set up camp after a long day’s drive and dinner at some local dive. We each settled into our designated spot in the station wagon and drifted off to sleep. Sometime in the middle of the night, the heavens opened up and a deluge of rain pummeled the car. My mom, a victim of what I like to call “tiny tank syndrome” was apparently in agony all night needing to use the bathroom, but reluctant to climb over my sister and out into the pouring rain to relieve herself.

All I remember is that after that evening, we spent a total of three nights in our Chevrolet “tent” out of a total of 42 nights on the road. It didn’t hurt that at the time you could find a perfectly comfortable motel, often with a swimming pool, for between $8 and $14 a night for a family of four.

At any rate that trip, along with hundreds of others I’ve taken alone, with friends or family, made me an avid fan of road trips and a faithful follower of most travel magazines, whose coverage of driving routes across the country is a gift to folks like me. Now that I am a resident of Cape Cod, imagine my glee upon finding an article in the August 2009 issue of National Geographic Travel Magazine entitled “Classic Cape Cod”. Written by Kay and William G. Sheller, the authors provide a driving route that circumnavigates the Cape. The article also appears in National Geographic’s Driving Guides to America: New England. If I were you, I’d buy a copy for all the “road trip” fans on my Christmas list. But here, in an abbreviated form, are the highlights of that article for those of you who may be planning a road trip to Cape Cod.

Classic Cape Cod

A drive around Massachusetts’ vintage Cape Cod serves up miles of beaches, restful resort towns—and, yes, lobster and clam shacks. There are capes all along the New England coast, but when anyone talks of “the Cape,” the meaning is immediately clear. This drive takes in virtually all of Cape Cod: the quiet villages along the bay side, the beautifully desolate dunes of the outer Cape’s national seashore, lively Provincetown, and the busy resorts that face Nantucket Sound.

Overview

Begin this 160-mile circuit at the Cape Cod Canal and follow the contour of Cape Cod Bay to the its “elbow.” From there you’ll drive north to Provincetown, then backtrack to Orleans. Eventually moving south to Chatham, you’ll return via Hyannis and Falmouth.

Start in Sagamore

Cross the Sagamore Bridge from the mainland to Cape Cod. The first town will be Sagamore, where the Pairpoint Glass Company carries on the local tradition of hand blowing lead crystal into functional and decorative items. Visitors can watch artisans blow, shape, and finish glassware.

Sandwich

Proceed east from Sagamore to Sandwich, the oldest town on the Cape. Settled by Puritans in 1637, this town flourished in the 19th century as a glass-making center. The many kinds of decorative and table glass—clear and colored, blown and pressed, cut and engraved—made Sandwich famous. The Sandwich Glass Museum preserves much of the best works from all different eras. Reproductions are available in the gift shop. Across Sandwich’s tree-shaded village center stands the beautifully preserved Hoxie House, which dates from the 1600s and may very well be the Cape’s oldest saltbox house. Also dating from the 17th century, the adjacent water-powered Dexter Grist Mill still turns out delicious stone-ground (organic) cornmeal, which can be purchased on site. On nearby Shawme Pond, the Thornton W. Burgess Museum honors the Sandwich native who wrote The Adventures of Peter Cottontail and other classic animal stories for children. The author’s colonial-era home contains early editions, original Harrison Cady illustrations, and a gift shop filled with Burgess books. Set on the manicured grounds of a former estate just outside town, the Heritage Museums and Gardens of Sandwich showcase all kinds of reconstructed historic buildings. Among the many exhibits is a working 1912 carousel, Currier & Ives lithographs, military firearms, and one of the nation’s finest collections of classic automobiles. A look at Gary Cooper’s 1930 Duesenberg alone is worth the price of admission (and a good deal more).

Yarmouth Port

Proceed east from Sandwich along Sandy Neck beach (off Sandy Neck Road), a splendid barrier beach of low dunes; a 6.2-mile trail leads to the Sandy Neck Light. Back on Mass. Route 6A is Barnstable, settled in 1639 and for years thriving on fish caught in the Great Banks. In the 1800s, scores of sea captains lived in town; many of their houses still stand. Continue to the Yarmouth Port, part of greater Yarmouth. Longtime resident Mary Thacher bequeathed her collection of 17th-, 18th-, and 19th-century furniture, along with the circa 1780 Winslow Crocker House, to the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities. Nearby, the oriental treasures carried home by its sea captain owner fill the 1840 Greek Revival Captain Bangs Hallet House.

Nickerson State Park

From Yarmouth stay on Mass. Route 6A through Dennis and Brewster, which boasts more 19th-century homes of sea captains. Also here: the Cape Cod Museum of Natural History, with exhibits on Cape ecosystems. Continue on to Cape Cod’s most expansive inland preserve, Nickerson State Park, encompassing nearly 2,000 acres of rolling pine forest dotted with freshwater ponds. Options include hiking, fishing, swimming, bike riding; a trail connects to the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail.

Cape Cod National Seashore

Proceed through Orleans, which is edged by some of the Cape’s best beaches, including Skaket (on the calm bay side)and Nauset (on the ocean side), where bracing Atlantic waters offer excellent surf casting. From here the drive enters scrubby pitch pine and oak forest and a world of lonely beaches, sea cliffs, and dunes. A good portion of this landscape has been preserved as the 44,600-acre Cape Cod National Seashore, with a visitor center at Salt Pond in Eastham. Trails and boardwalks lace 1,100 acres of pine woods, marshes, and tidal creeks at the Massachusetts Audubon Society’s Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary. Whimbrels and yellowlegs are two of the more than 200 species of birds spotted here. Just ahead, an outdoor exhibit at the Marconi Station Site commemorates the clifftop spot where radio pioneer Guglielmo Marconi transmitted the first message across the Atlantic in 1903. A Marconi station operated here until 1917; among the signals picked up were distress calls from the R.M.S. Titanic in 1912.

Provincetown

Stay on Route 6 through the quiet town of Truro, then bear left onto Route 6A, the scenic bayside approach to the popular summer resort town of Provincetown. A picturesque jumble of narrow streets, this colonial seaport possesses elements of a Portuguese fishing village. The Pilgrims landed here in 1620 before settling on their final destination of Plymouth. The stop is commemorated by the Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum, a 252-foot Italian Renaissance granite tower erected in 1910. The spectacular 360-degree view at the top encompasses the Cape’s variegated landscapes and the sea beyond. Ship models, whaling equipment, and other maritime artifacts fill the museum near the monument’s base. For local history, stop in Provincetown Heritage Museum; there is even a half-scale model of a Grand Banks fishing schooner. Perhaps the most dramatically beautiful portion of the national seashore can be found at nearby Province Lands; its visitors’ center offers information. A short climb to the observation deck provides majestic views of dune, village, and sea. Take hiking trails that meander through the dunes, or bike a five-mile loop.

Chatham

Leaving Provincetown, the drive follows U.S. 6 toward Orleans. From the traffic circle there take Mass. 6A and Mass. 28 north (though the road actually goes south) to Chatham, at the Cape’s outer elbow. Smaller and more sedate than Provincetown, Chatham nevertheless offers plenty of shop and gallery browsing, as well as splendid sea views from the overlook at Chatham Light. Tucked among the 18th- and 19th-century houses of its leafy residential neighborhood is pleasant Chase Park, where you’ll find a 1797 gristmill and the historical society’s 1752 Atwood House Museum, filled with period furniture, Sandwich glass, seafarer tools—and a series of murals by Alice Stallknecht Wight depicting Chatham people she knew in the early- to mid-1900s.

End in Woods Hole

Leaving Chatham, amble westward alongside Nantucket Sound. In the 1960s, the seaside quarter of Hyannis Port, in the village of Hyannis, became one of the world’s most famous addresses. That era is recalled at the John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum, which really is an extensive gallery of large-format photographs that capture the 35th president’s lifelong romance with the Cape. Kennedy is also remembered at the John F. Kennedy Memorial, a harborside fountain and reflecting pool. Proceed farther west to Falmouth, the Cape’s southwesternmost point. Settled by Congregationalists in the 1660s, the town became a whaling and shipbuilding center in the 19th century. Clustered around the classic village green are the 1796 First Congregational Church, with its steeple and Paul Revere bell, and two historic-house museums, the 18th-century Julia Wood House and the Conant House Museum, with mementoes of Katharine Lee Bates, the Falmouth native who wrote the song “America the Beautiful.” From Falmouth take Woods Hole Road south to the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, founded in 1930 as “the world’s largest private, nonprofit ocean research, engineering and education organization.” Its Exhibits Center showcases the various activities and discoveries of its scientists—including a full-size model of the inner sphere of the deep submersible Alvin.

Road Kit

Allow three to four days to enjoy this 160-mile circuit, which can be traveled spring through fall, when the seasonal weather is generally temperate and most attractions are open.

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Cape Cod Road Trip

Turkeys visit the High Pointe Inn

As if on cue, this flock of wild turkeys arrived in our yard a few weeks ago. Not God’s brightest creatures, they seem undaunted by Casey or cars buzzing down the street. One afternoon, Rich had to assist one from the middle of the road by literally picking it up and carrying it! We thought about putting together a “Shoot Your Own” Thanksgiving special, but thought better of it.

At any rate, we hope you had a very happy and healthy Thanksgiving wherever and however you chose to celebrate it.

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A Cape Cod Happy Thanksgiving

We strolled along the pier, Rich snapping photos, and me just breathing deeply and savoring the summer smells of saltwater, sunscreen, and seaweed. We noticed a bright red lobster boat at the dock and sauntered over to take a look at the catch. He had some doosies! I asked the weight of one in particular that looked like a granddaddy to me, but was surprised to hear the estimate of only 8 pounds. I wondered how old a 6-8 pound lobster was. Now I can’t vouch for the following, but I read later if you multiply a lobster’s weight by 4, then add 3, you’ve got a pretty good estimate of it’s age. So that 8 pound lobster was roughly 35 years old!

Jumbo Lobster

Turning away we spotted a truck with a couple of tubs of huge lobsters spilling out over the top. They were so large that their claws, which would normally be secured with a rubber band, were wrapped with duck tape! I made Rich take a picture of these beasts with my hand as a reference for size. I’ve never seen such a monster lobster. Imagine how old he must be?!

White or Albino Finch

Later that same week we were cleaning up the kitchen from our normal breakfast service. It was a warm day, humid, with unsettled air that kept us inside rather than serving breakfast out on the deck in the summer sunshine. From a distance, we spotted a white bird on a tree limb in the dense foliage that is our back yard. As we watched, this beautiful creature approached our feeders on the deck. Hovering for position, it had to out maneuver the titmice, cardinals, sparrows, chicadees, and gold finches that feast on our humble offerings each morning. But soon enough he found a spot and took a perch. Rich ran for his camera, never thinking the unusual bird would sit still for a candid. But he lingered long enough for Rich to get his shot. We think it was either a white or albino finch, which is very rare I am told. And we haven’t seen it again since. But we’ll keep watching and hoping.

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Strange and Unusual Sightings on Cape Cod

Cape Cod is an enigma. A peninsula in origin, it effectively became an island separated from the mainland by the creation of the Cape Cod Canal. For most of us who now call the Cape home, although we are connected by the Sagamore and Bourne bridges, we still refer to going off Cape as “going to the mainland”.

Navigating Cape Cod is a challenge to many of our visitors. It’s unique physical shape is likened to a flexed arm. Beginning at the shoulder after exiting one of the bridges are the Upper Cape towns of Bourne, Falmouth, Sandwich and Mashpee. The mid-section or bicep area is the Mid-Cape, which includes Barnstable, Yarmouth and Dennis. The Lower Cape is the forearm, stretching from the elbow of Chatham to the fist of Provincetown and comprising the towns of Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet, and Truro. To further complicate the visitor, the towns of Eastham to Provincetown are also often referred to as the Outer Cape because only these towns border the Atlantic Ocean.

Other anomalies prevail when navigating the three major routes that traverse Cape Cod. Route 6, also known as the Mid-Cape Highway, runs from the Sagamore Bridge down the center of the Cape to Provincetown. On the Bay side, also known as the north side, is Route 6A, the Old King‘s Highway that unites the quieter, historic, and more scenic side of the Cape. Route 28 runs from Bourne to Orleans along the south side of the Cape, and is frequently more congested than the north side. There are times when you can be on Route 28 North, clearly going south or west, as it travels along the shoulder and underarm of Cape Cod. Route 6 and 6A meet up at the rotary in Orleans near the inner elbow of the Cape as you head east to the tip of the peninsula, though your compass reads due north. And finally, you enter Provincetown through the east end of town and drive west to reach the other end of town around the bended fist.

To further confound visitors, most Cape towns have more than one village within their borders. Hyannis, for example, though one of the more familiar places on the Cape, is not a separate community, but merely one of seven villages within the town of Barnstable, which also includes Centerville, Osterville, Cotuit, Marstons Mills, West Barnstable and Barnstable. It is also not uncommon for multiple villages within one town to have streets by the same name. Main Street in West Yarmouth is Route 28. Main Street in Yarmouthport goes by the name of Hallett Street and Route 6A. There are two Camp Streets in Hyannis. One will take you toward the hospital from Yarmouth; the other to Mill Pond. West Yarmouth and Yarmouthport are both within the town of Yarmouth. But there is no village called Yarmouth. And although there is a village called South Yarmouth, there is none called North Yarmouth.

But perhaps the most confusing part of traveling around Cape Cod is the phenomena of the traffic rotary. Whenever we go around the airport rotary in Hyannis, I close my eyes. Oh, I’m not driving, mind you, just a passenger with Rich at the wheel. While he is a very good negotiator of the circular traffic maze, I am not as confident of the other drivers approaching from all angles. So I close my eyes, adopt a Zen state-of-mind and breath deeply until we have successfully emerged. Of course, every time we negotiate the rotary, I am subjected to Rich’s rendition of the “rules of the rotary”. He is of the opinion, and not shy about sharing that opinion with me and whoever else may be listening, that 99% of drivers are clueless as to rotary etiquette.

The most apt description of rotary protocol appeared in today’s Cape Cod Times. The author summed it up this way: “Rotaries are just intersections with attitude. The concept is fairly simple, though it can be daunting at first. Keep a couple of things in mind to safely navigate a rotary. Go with the flow. Remember traffic in the rotary has the right of way. When you enter or exit, signal, look for an open space and move confidently. Keep to the inside until you are ready to exit. If you miss your exit, relax. The beauty of the rotary is that your exit will show up again. And again. And again.” And I say from her lips to God’s ears and everyone else entering and exiting the airport rotary. However, until I am confident that all drivers have read and understood how to negotiate a rotary, I’m still going to just close my eyes.

Other Fun Facts About Cape Cod:

• You say you are “on” the Cape, not “in” it.
• There is no bridge to Nantucket or Martha’s Vineyard.
• There is no tunnel under the Cape Cod Canal.
• People who have moved to the Cape from somewhere else are called “washashores”.
• The Flyover is the new traffic configuration that resulted when the Sagamore Rotary was eliminated.

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Navigating Cape Cod…Just Close Your Eyes

Chatham Fish Pier Observation Deck

If you are looking for a fun and FREE late afternoon activity this summer, why not take in the Chatham Fish Pier. One of the most photographed spots on Cape Cod, the Fish Pier is located at 54 Barcliff Avenue Extension, just off of Shore Road in Chatham, a quarter mile south of the Route 28 intersection. The best time to go is in late afternoon when the commercial fishing boats return to unload their daily catch. On any given day the catch can be cod, haddock, dogfish, lobster, tuna, or scallops that will be shipped to Boston, New York, or destinations overseas.

Take the stairway to the observation deck and watch the activity from a bird‘s eye view. It’s a treat for all your senses. A fish elevator transports the catch up, past your nose, and onto a conveyor belt that moves the haul into the processing plant. Seagulls screech above your head, and massive grey seals lurk below hoping a tempting treat will be tossed their way.

As part of its community outreach efforts, the Cape Cod Hook Fishermen’s Association (CCCHFA) sends a fishing expert to the pier, Wednesdays through Saturdays, to answer visitors’ questions as part of their “Fish Pier Host” program. The hosts are generally retired commercial fisherman, with a wealth of information about the catch, the local waters, and what it’s like to fish commercially.

The Fish Pier sees around 17,500 visitors annually. On your way into or out of Chatham, be sure to travel down Shore Road, past the Chatham Bars Inn (a Cape Cod Institution) to Chatham Lighthouse and Lighthouse Beach.

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Chatham Fish Pier – Free Cape Cod Summer Fun!

Cape Cod Shipwreck-January 2008

Sebastian Junger, author of “The Perfect Storm” and a Truro homeowner, told a radio interviewer that he came across a piece of a ship’s hull near Ballston Beach in Truro last Friday. But when a park ranger went out to examine the wreck, there was nothing to be found.

The author described the wreck as having a “bulbous kind of look … like Columbus’ ships had. It’s just like really old looking” and said that pieces of it had been washing ashore for months.

In January of 2008 a 19th century schooner turned coal barge washed up on Newcomb Hollow Beach in Wellfleet, but it is unclear whether Junger’s find is part of the same shipwreck

According to Junger, the most recent piece of ship was discovered just south of the Ballston Beach entrance. He described it as “several planks fastened to a hull with wooden pegs and brass nails several inches long.”

Although Junger claimed to have anchored the hull to the shore, it could have broken away in the recent stormy weather, because as of this morning there was still no wreck to be found near Ballston Beach in Truro. So the mystery dubbed the “celebrity shipwreck mystery” remains, well, a mystery.

[source: Cape Cod Times, Wednesday, June 24, 2009]

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Shipwreck on Cape Cod

4th of July on Cape Cod

One of the nation’s best Fourth of July fireworks shows is right here on Cape Cod, according to Travel & Leisure Magazine, which named Falmouth’s annual fireworks display as one of the 10 best in the country. The patriotic fireworks show is watched by 50,000 people each summer and was chosen because of the musical choreography and the quality of fireworks.

According to Travel & Leisure, on July 3, 1776, the day before the Continental Congress adopted the final draft of the Declaration of Independence in Philadelphia, John Adams wrote to his wife, Abigail, that the event should be marked “with shows, games, sports, guns, bells, bonfires and illuminations from one end of this continent to the other from this time forward forever more.”

Today, the explosive spectacles that Adams envisioned come courtesy of the U.S. pyrotechnics industry, a $900 million-plus annual business.

Falmouth is ranked among some heavy hitters and perennial pyrotechnic favorites. The Boston Pops Fireworks Spectacular topped the list and fireworks shows in Washington, D.C., Philadelphia, New York City and Mount Rushmore also made the cut.

This year’s display is dedicated to the 150th anniversary of the birth of Falmouth native Katharine Lee Bates, who wrote “America the Beautiful.” The complete list of the best fireworks displays can be found on http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/best-july-4th-fireworks/.

We still have some rooms available for the holiday weekend. Come celebrate with us!

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Cape Cod Fireworks Among “Top Ten”!

Tall Ships Boston 2009

The Tall Ships are returning to Boston Harbor this year and tours of the vessels are free! Why not combine a peaceful getaway to Cape Cod with a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see the spectacular Tall Ships on their trans-Atlantic journey? Boston Harbor is less than an hour’s drive from Cape Cod, making a daytrip to see the Tall Ships an easy venture from our central Cape Cod location.The Tall Ships journey begins in Vigo, Spain. From there the fleet will race to Tenerife in the Canary Islands, en route to Bermuda. Then on to Charleston, South Carolina before racing to Boston, for Sail Boston 2009. From Boston the fleet will cruise north to Halifax, Canada and eventually back across the North Atlantic to Belfast, Northern Ireland.

The public will be able to view the Tall Ships vessels in Boston from Thursday, July 9 to Sunday, July 12 at a number of piers, including Battery Wharf, Long Wharf, Rowes Wharf, Moakley Courthouse, Charlestown Navy Yard, World Trade Center and Fish Pier. However, boarding of the largest and most popular Tall Ships will only be allowed at the Charlestown Navy Yard, Fish Pier and the World Trade Center from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. on July 9-10 (Thursday and Friday), and 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. on July 11-12 (Saturday-Sunday).

We still have a few rooms available for July 1 – 9 and July 11-14. Great rates…fantastic views…unforgettable breakfast…and insider information on how to get the most from your Cape Cod vacation and Tall Ships adventure. Call 888-362-4441 for best availability or book online.

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Cape Cod and the Tall Ships

Shining Sea Bike Path in Falmouth

On July 2, the newest section of the Shining Sea Bikeway will officially open with a dedication ceremony, but already hundreds of people are riding, running and walking it each day. This new stretch of pavement is less than eight miles long but the existing bike path nearly 11 miles, from County Road in North Falmouth to the Steamship Authority parking lot in Woods Hole.

Built along the right-of-way for the Old Colony rail line into Woods Hole, the new bike path passes through cranberry bogs and the Sippewissett Marsh, and offers views of Chapaquoit Beach. Along the way it’s easy to spot an osprey feeding on fish, gulls dropping shellfish onto the pavement or rabbits hopping through newly planted grass. Some property owners along the trail have put out water bowls for dogs and one homeowner set up a “shaved ice” stand to lure a captive and thirsty audience.

The Shining Sea Bikeway is named for Katharine Lee Bates, the Falmouth woman who wrote the poem that became the song “America the Beautiful.”

The bike path runs along a prehistoric Wampanoag Indian trail.

From 1872 to 1957 it was used by the Penn Central Railroad for train service to Woods Hole.

In 1975, the town purchased 3.3 miles of the right-of way for $329,000 and one year later, the path was officially opened to bikes.

The new 7.4-mile stretch from Falmouth center to North Falmouth was paid for through a $300,000 town debt exclusion for design work, $3.2 million in federal funds for construction and $21,700 from the state Department of Conservation and Recreation for informational kiosks and brochures.

[Source: Shining Sea Bikeway pamphlet and committee.]

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Cape Cod Shining Sea Bikeway

A day at the beach on Cape Cod

Top on Dr. Beach’s list is Hanalei Bay, a two-mile crescent-shaped beach on the Hawaiian island of Kauai. “The sheer beauty of Hanalei Bay is breathtaking,” said Leatherman, director of Florida International University’s Laboratory for Coastal Research. “It’s really an idyllic setting.” The complete list is as follows:

Dr. Beach’s 2009 Top Ten Beaches:
1. Hanalei Bay, Kauai, Hawaii
2. Siesta Beach, Sarasota, Fla.
3. Coopers Beach, Southampton, N.Y.
4. Coronado Beach, San Diego
5. Hamoa Beach, Maui, Hawaii
6. Main Beach, East Hampton, N.Y.
7. Cape Hatteras, Outer Banks, N.C.
8. Cape Florida State Park, Key Biscayne, Fla.
9. Coast Guard Beach, Cape Cod
10. Beachwalker Park, Kiawah Island, S.C.

Located in the Cape Cod National Seashore, Coast Guard Beach offers ramps, showers, parking, and even an over-sand wheelchair. It’s also got enough wave action that at least two surfing Web sites have webcams trained on it at all times.

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Cape Cod’s Coast Guard Beach Named one of Dr. Beach’s Top Ten 2009