Download the PDF version here.

Housing of beehives in COGS Gardens 

COGS gardens may house beehives, subject to the following conditions:

1. All gardens that have beehives must enter into an agreement with the beekeeper(s) using the attached template agreement. Convenors must agree any variations to the template agreement with the COGS President.
2. Convenors should seek independent advice from the ACT Beekeepers Association or similar organisation regarding the location of beehives bearing in mind public safety.
3. Convenors should ensure signs are in place advising garden members and the public about the presence of beehives in a garden.
4. The presence of beehives in a COGS garden is up to individual gardens and their members to decide, ideally on a consensus basis.
5. Convenors must advise the COGS Community Gardens Coordinator of the current registration number of all hives kept in their respective community garden.

Template Agreement for the Placement and Management of Beehives

The Template Agreement for the Placement and Management of Beehives can be downloaded from here.

LOCATION: COGS Crace Garden at Drooka Crescent, Crace. (Type in COGS Crace Community Garden on Google maps.) You can park on either Drooka or Langtree Crescents (entry is via the Drooka Crescent side of the garden).

Please come along.  This is your opportunity to hear about what has been happening in COGS during the past 12 months and to ask questions of the COGS Executive. It is also an opportunity to see the Crace Community Garden and to meet other members over afternoon tea.

The meeting will hear reports from the President and Treasurer. The Treasurer will present the financial statements for the year ended 31 December 2025. The meeting will also consider a change to the Constitution and associated new policy related to the housing of beehives with COGS gardens (more information about this here). New Life Members will be announced.

Consistent with the COGS Constitution, all COGS Executive Committee positions become vacant at the AGM. Several existing Committee members will renominate, but it is likely we will have a couple of vacancies, so please consider nominating for a position. Thank you to those members who have already indicated their intention to nominate following my call in December last year. COGS is run by members for members: there are no paid employees. Volunteering for the Committee can be a rewarding and valuable experience. Please feel free to call me if you wish to discuss or find out more about what being on the COGS Committee involves – 0411 286 246.

• Agenda.
• Details about proposed beekeeping change.
• Nomination form.  You can nominate for any position on the Committee. The nomination must be supported by two members. A completed form can be returned to me (president@cogs.asn.au), or handed in on the day.  Forms will also be available at the AGM.
• Proxy form. If you are unable to attend, you can appoint a member attending the meeting to vote on your behalf using the attached proxy form. The form can be returned to me.

Looking forward to seeing you.

Neil Williams
President, Canberra Organic Growers Society. 
March 2026

Download the PDF version here.

2026 General Meeting

Sunday 22 Feb 2026
Cook Community Garden, Bindubi Street, Cook ACT 2614
4.00pm – 6.00pm

To change Section 16 of the Constitution: Election of Committee Members, sub-clauses 7 and 8

Sub-clause 7

 Amend Sub-clause 7 to include a new point (c) so it reads as follows:
“A person is not eligible to hold more than one committee position simultaneously, except:
(a) the position of Public Officer;
(b) the position of Membership Secretary, which can be held by the Treasurer; and
(c) the position of Magazine Editor which can be held by the Information Officer and vice versa.”

Sub-clause 8

Delete the entire sub-clause
“A person may hold the position of President for no more three successive terms. They may seek re-election to the position of President after a period of no less than 12 months since they last held the office. When a past President is ineligible to hold the office of President, they may hold any other office or be an ordinary committee member’

 
Mover             Peter Weddell, Vice President, past President, past Secretary (Member #1936)
Seconder         Andy Hrast, past President, past Treasurer and Secretary (Member #170)    

         
Rationale 

        
Sub-clause 7

Allowing the positions of Magazine Editor and Information Officer to be held by the same person will provide opportunity for an important skill set to be shared across both roles.  Especially relevant when annual nominations for these roles are unmet. 

Sub-clause 8

COGS current President will relinquish office under current rules in March 2026.

 A recent call for expressions of interest for office bearing positions and the general committee has indicated succession is uncertain.

The mover and seconder of the motion believe the current rules of tenure for the presidency are restrictive and it is in the best interests of COGS for a President to have the option of continuing in office to consolidate stability and development of the organisation. It would allow COGS to undertake a long-term succession planning process to identify and promote potential candidates for all office bearing positions. In terms of tenure, it will align COGS with most other local community organisations.

Proxy Voting

           
If unable to attend the meeting COGS members are encouraged to use the Appointment of Proxy Form to register their vote. Forms must be received by the COGS Vice-President by cob Friday 20 February 2026 or tabled at the meeting. Email completed forms to pwedd9@gmail.com

Download Proxy Form in PDF / Word

View PDF Version

Optimum soil temperature for germination: 21-35°C

Plant seedlings: November-December

Plant spacing: 50-60 cm

Days to maturity: 45-55 days

Introduction

Zucchini, Cucurbita pepo, also known as courgette, belongs to the Cucurbitaceae family, which  includes cucumbers, melons, and pumpkins. 

Zucchini originated in Central and South America, where it has been cultivated for thousands of years. It was brought to Europe by explorers in the 16th century and became particularly popular in Italian cuisine, which led to many of the varieties we know today. The name “zucchini” comes from the Italian word “zucchino,” meaning small squash. This explains why they are often referred to as squash.

The plants are large, sprawling somewhat prickly bushes with large, broad leaves that often have a distinctive mottled pattern. They produce bright yellow flowers that are also edible. Botanically, the zucchini fruit is classified as a berry, specifically a “pepo,” which is a type of berry with a thick rind and many seeds.

Site and soil

Zucchini can be easily grown outdoors in Canberra with proper variety selection and timing. Being a fruiting plant, zucchini requires at least 6 hours of full sun per day. Choose a warm, sunny, sheltered location protected from strong winds.

Prior to planting, prepare the soil by adding compost and complete organic fertiliser. Zucchini prefers fertile, well-drained soil with a pH between 5.8-6.8. Raised beds can help improve drainage in heavy soils.

If growing in pots, it is very important to use a high-quality potting mix boosted with complete organic fertiliser. Choose a container at least 40-50 cm in diameter and depth to accommodate the plant’s extensive root system.

For details on preparing the soil and pots, including the use of lime, dolomite, gypsum and fertilisers please refer to the COGS guide to garden bed preparation.

Planting Seeds and Seedlings

Zucchini can be started from seed or purchased as seedlings. If starting from seed, sow direct into the soil outdoors after all danger of frost has passed (usually mid-October to early November in Canberra). Alternatively, seedlings can be raised indoors for planting out 3 to 4 weeks later. This method has advantages because the seedlings are protected from frost then planted out when advanced leading to earlier fruiting. If there is danger of frost or you want to start them early outdoors, plants can be protected by covering with caterpillar tunnels. The optimum soil temperature for germination is 21-35°C, with little to no germination occurring below 15°C.  Seeds should germinate within 10 days under optimal conditions.

When direct seeding, sow 2-3 seeds per position and thin to the strongest seedling once they develop their first true leaves. For transplants, harden off seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions over a period of 7-10 days before planting out.

Space plants 50-60 cm apart to allow for adequate air circulation and the sprawling growth habit. After planting, water thoroughly with a seaweed solution to reduce transplant shock and promote root development.

Applying organic mulch such as straw, lucerne, or sugar cane mulch will help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.

Cultivation

Zucchini plants are frost-sensitive, so seedlings should only be planted out after the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed. In Canberra, this is typically from mid-November onwards. If a late frost is forecast, protect young plants with cloches, frost cloth, or upturned buckets.

Consistent watering is essential for zucchini production. Aim to provide 2-3 cm of water per week, applied directly to the soil rather than overhead to prevent foliar diseases. Water deeply and less frequently rather in preference to frequent, shallow watering to encourage deeper root growth.

Plants may need a side dressing of complete organic fertiliser when the first fruits begin to form. A monthly foliar spray with seaweed solution; a mix of worm juice, seaweed and compost tea; or trace elements will help boost growth and resilience to pests and diseases.

Harvesting

Harvest zucchini regularly, ideally every second day, once plants begin producing. Younger, smaller zucchini (15-20 cm long for elongated varieties, 5-7.5 cm in diameter for round types) have the best flavour and texture. Regular harvesting encourages continued production.

To harvest, cut or gently twist off fruits when they have reached the desired size. Use a sharp knife or secateurs to cut the stem about 2-3 cm above the fruit, being careful not to damage the plant. Handle fruits with care to avoid scratching or bruising.

Some varieties, like ‘Striato d’Italia’, grow long before increasing in girth, allowing them to be harvested at a good size before becoming too large. Others, like ‘Rond di Nice’, are round and should be harvested when they reach 5-7.5 cm in diameter.

The flowers are edible and are a gourmet delicacy. Harvest male blossoms (with thin stems) or female blossoms (with thick stems and a round swollen immature fruit at the base) in mid to late morning when fully open. If you also want to harvest fruit, only pick male flowers, leaving a few for pollination. If fruit production is excessive some female flowers can be removed.

Problems

There are numerous pests and diseases that can affect zucchini. The best approach is to have a reliable Australian reference book to identify problems. Garden Pests, Disease and Good Bugs by Denis Crawford is recommended.

A general strategy to follow with any problem is to observe the plant carefully before taking action. Identify the problem then carefully consider the course of action. For example, with pest insects, you often can see a predator nearby. If you watch and wait the predator may deal with the problem for you. Beneficial predatory insects which feed on pest insects can be purchased from suppliers such as Bugs for Bugs. If the problem needs further action the above recommended book has suggestions. 

Practicing good garden hygiene, crop rotation, and maintaining plant vigour by providing adequate nutrients are key strategies for prevention.

Common issues include:

• Wilting leaves during the day. It is common for the leaves to wilt during the day. As long as they perk up again in the evening it is not a problem. If not you need to give them more water.
• Poor fruit development If fruits start to develop but then wither or blacken this generally indicates insufficient pollination, which can be an issue early in the season when fewer pollinators are active. To improve pollination, you can hand-pollinate by transferring pollen from male flowers (with thin stems) to female flowers (with small fruits at their base) using a small brush.
• Powdery mildew: This fungal disease appears as white powder on leaves. Ensure good air circulation by proper spacing, avoid overhead watering, and apply milk spray (1 part milk to 9 parts water) or seaweed spray as a preventative measure. Select varieties that are less prone to powdery mildew.
• Downy mildew: Yellow spots on leaf surfaces with grey-purple fuzz underneath. Improve air circulation and apply organic copper fungicides if severe.
• Bacterial wilt: Caused by cucumber beetles, plants wilt suddenly and don’t recover. Remove and destroy affected plants and practice crop rotation.
• Cucumber beetles: Small yellow and black striped beetles that feed on leaves and spread disease. Protect young plants with floating row covers until flowering.
• Squash bugs: Gray-brown shield-shaped bugs that suck plant sap. Check undersides of leaves for bronze-coloured egg clusters and crush them. Remove adults by hand.
• Vine borers: White larvae that tunnel into stems, causing wilting. Look for sawdust-like frass at entry holes. Cut out of vines and hill soil over the wound.

Recommended Varieties

Several zucchini varieties perform well in Canberra’s climate:

• Striato d’Italia: Sweet and nutty flavour with attractive striped fruit. Plants are vigorous and produce throughout the season. Fruits grow long before increasing in girth. Resistant to powdery mildew.
• Rond di Nice: Round zucchini with excellent flavour, particularly good for stuffing or grilling. Earlier to produce than some varieties. Resistant to powdery mildew.
• Black Beauty: Traditional dark green zucchini with straight fruits and reliable production. Prone to powdery mildew.
• Cocozelle: Italian heirloom with striped dark and light green fruits. Compact plants suitable for smaller spaces. Resistant to powdery mildew. Seemingly less productive than some other varieties.
• Golden: Bright yellow fruits with a slightly nutty flavour and softer skin than green varieties e.g. yellow crookneck, Gold Rush.
• Romanesco: Distinctive ribbed fruits with excellent flavour and firm texture. Resistant to powdery mildew.

References

1. Bubel, Nancy. The New Seed-Starters Handbook. Rodale Books, 2018.
2. Crawford D. Garden Pests, Disease and Good Bugs. Australia: ABC Books; 2015.
3. Dove, Helena. Botany of the Kitchen Garden, Kew Publishing, Royal Botanic Gardens Kew, UK, 2023. 
4. Fanton, Michel and Jude. The Seed Savers Handbook. The Seed Savers Network, Australia, 1993.
5. Gardenate. Growing Squash (Crookneck, Pattypan, Summer squash) in Australia – temperate climate [Internet]. 2024 [cited 2025 May 6]. Available from: https://www.gardenate.com/plant/Squash
6. The Seed Collection. How to Grow Summer Squash Seeds [Internet]. 2024 [cited 2025 May 6]. Available from: https://www.theseedcollection.com.au/growguide/summer-squash-seeds
7. Yates Australia. How to Grow Squash [Internet]. 2024 [cited 2025 May 6]. Available from: https://www.yates.com.au/how-to-grow/squash/

Optimum soil temperature for germination: 7-25°C

Plant spacing: 15-20 cm

Days to maturity: 70-120 days

Introduction

Swede (Brassica napus var. napobrassica), also known as rutabaga in North America, is a root vegetable belonging to the Brassicaceae family which also includes cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, kohl rabi, Brussels sprouts, turnips, radish, rocket, collards and mustard greens. The swede is actually a naturally occurring hybrid between cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and turnip (Brassica rapa).

Originating in Scandinavia in the 17th century, swedes were first documented growing wild in Sweden by Swiss botanist Gaspard Bauhin in 1620, which explains their common name. They were initially grown as animal fodder but gradually gained popularity as a staple food crop, particularly in cooler northern regions.

Swedes develop large, round roots with purple tops and creamy yellow flesh. They have a sweet, earthy flavour that intensifies after exposure to frost. The leaves grow in a rosette pattern and resemble those of turnips but are more blue-green in colour.

Swedes grow particularly well in Canberra and can be an excellent addition to the winter vegetable garden due to their cold hardiness and excellent storage capabilities.

Site and soil

Swedes prefer full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Choose a position that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. Swedes grow best in cooler weather, and are best planted in late summer for winter harvest.

The soil should be deep, well-drained, and rich in organic matter. Swedes prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.0-6.8. Avoid acidic soils with a pH below 5.5, as this can lead to reduced growth and increased susceptibility to club root disease.

Before planting, prepare the soil by digging in well-rotted compost or aged manure and a complete organic fertiliser to improve fertility and structure. Swedes are moderate to heavy feeders, so incorporating a balanced organic fertiliser during soil preparation is beneficial.

Swedes grow well following legumes, such as beans or peas have been grown the previous season, due to the fixed nitrogen.

If growing in containers, choose deep pots at least 30-40 cm in depth to accommodate the developing roots, and use a good quality potting mix enriched with compost.

For details on preparing the soil and pots, including the use of lime, dolomite, gypsum and fertilisers please refer to the COGS guide to garden bed preparation.

Planting Seeds and Seedlings

In Canberra, swedes are best sown in February for a winter harvest. Seeds should be sown directly into the garden bed because they don’t transplant well due to their taproot. 

Sow seeds at a depth twice the size of the seed, spaced 5 cm apart in rows 25-30 cm apart. Once seedlings reach about 5 cm in height, thin them to 15-20 cm apart to allow sufficient space for the roots to develop. If sown too densely, the roots will be small and misshapen.

Swedes germinate best when soil temperatures are between 7-25°C, with germination typically occurring within 7-10 days. Cooler soil temperatures may delay germination, and temperatures above 25°C can reduce germination rates.

After sowing, keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. A layer of fine mulch can help retain soil moisture and prevent weed growth. Once seedlings are established, mulch around plants with straw or other organic material.

Cultivation

Swedes are relatively undemanding once established but require consistent watering, especially during root development and dry periods. Aim for about 25mm of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation.

Regular weeding is important, particularly when plants are young, as swedes don’t compete well with weeds. Be careful not to damage the developing roots when removing weeds.

The aim in planting in February, is to have plants well established in early to mid-Autumn to enable the photosynthetic parts of the plant to transport starches to the root. Swedes are highly frost-tolerant.

Swedes don’t require additional fertiliser if the soil was well prepared before planting. However, if growth seems slow, a side dressing of balanced organic fertilizer midway through the growing season can be beneficial. A monthly foliar spray with seaweed solution; a mix of worm juice, seaweed and compost tea; or trace elements will help boost growth and resilience to pests and diseases.

The flavour of swedes actually improves after frost because the cold temperatures stimulate the conversion of starches to sugars, making the roots sweeter. 

As the roots mature, you may see them push up partially above the soil surface. This is normal and doesn’t require hilling or covering, unlike potatoes.

Harvesting

Swedes are typically ready to harvest 70-120 days after sowing, depending on the variety and growing conditions. They can be harvested when the roots reach the size of a tennis ball (about 7-10 cm in diameter), though they can grow much larger.

For the sweetest flavour, harvest swedes after they’ve been exposed to a few frosts. 

To harvest, loosen the soil around the plant with a garden fork and then carefully lift the root. Twist off the foliage, leaving about 2 cm of stem on the root to prevent rotting during storage.

In Canberra, Swedes can be left in the ground and harvested as needed throughout winter. The cold soil serves as nature’s refrigerator. However, they should be harvested before spring when increasing daylength and warmer temperatures will cause them to become bolt and become woody.

For storage, brush off excess soil (don’t wash until ready to use) and store in a cool, dark place with good air circulation. Under ideal conditions, swedes can store for 4-6 months. They can also be peeled, chopped, and blanched for freezing.

Young swede greens can also be harvested sparingly and used like turnip greens or kale in cooking.

Problems

The best approach is to have a reliable Australian reference book to identify problems. Garden Pests, Disease and Good Bugs by Denis Crawford is recommended.

A general strategy to follow with any problem is to observe the plant carefully before taking action. Identify the problem then carefully consider the course of action. For example, with pest insects, you often can see a predator nearby. If you watch and wait the predator may deal with the problem for you. Beneficial predatory insects which feed on pest insects can be purchased from suppliers such as Bugs for Bugs. If the problem needs further action the above recommended book has suggestions. 

Practicing good garden hygiene, crop rotation, and maintaining plant vigour by providing adequate nutrients are key strategies for prevention.

Several pests and diseases can affect swedes in Canberra:

Cabbage White Butterfly (Pieris rapae): This common pest lays tiny white eggs on the undersides of leaves. The green caterpillars that hatch are perfectly camouflaged and feed on leaves, creating irregular holes and contaminating plants with their droppings. Exclusion netting is the most reliable method to prevent damage from cabbage white butterfly. Keep in mind that the netting also excludes beneficial insects and birds that glean plants cleaning up other pests. Thus, leaving the netting on for too long can result in populations of sap suckers such as aphids, thrips and white fly building up inside the netting. 

Control methods include:

• Covering plants with fine insect mesh or exclusion netting from the time of planting
• Regularly inspecting and manually removing eggs and caterpillars
• Using biological controls such as Bacillus thuringiensis (also known as Bt and sold as Dipel) for significant infestations
• Creating butterfly decoys by placing white plastic pieces around plants
• Avoiding brassica weeds that act as hosts

Clubroot (Plasmodiophora brassicae): This soil-borne disease causes swollen, deformed roots and stunted growth. Plants may wilt during warm weather and show yellowing leaves. The disease thrives in acidic soils (below pH 7.0) and can persist in soil for many years. Management includes:

• Maintaining soil pH above 7.0, ideally 7.8, through liming
• Practicing crop rotation (avoid planting brassicas in the same area for at least 4 years)
• Improving drainage in wet areas
• Removing and disposing of infected plants (do not compost)
• Using disease-free transplants and clean tools

Aphids, thrips and white fly: These small sap-sucking insects can transmit celery mosaic virus. They often cluster on the undersides of leaves, causing distortion and stunting. Small populations can be controlled by washing them off with a strong stream of water or using insecticidal soap. Alternatively, neem oil or pyrethrin can be used. Beneficial predators like ladybugs and lacewings should be encouraged and can be purchased for release on the crop. Look for aphid mummies which are evidence that the aphid has been parasitised. Eggs can also be parasitised and will appear bronze in colour. Generally speaking, plants that are high in soluble nitrogen (nitrates and ammonia) are prone to attack by sap sucking insects. Ideally avoid using soluble nitrogen fertilisers and ensure plants have adequate trace elements. This can be achieved by using foliar sprays.

Flea beetles are small black beetles that jump when disturbed and create small holes in the leaves, particularly damaging to young seedlings. Floating row covers from sowing until plants are established can help prevent infestations. Diatomaceous earth sprinkled around plants can also be effective.

Practicing crop rotation is essential for preventing the buildup of pests and diseases. Avoid planting swedes or other brassicas in the same location for at least 3-4 years.

Recommended Varieties

Several swede varieties perform well in Canberra’s climate:

• Laurentian: The most widely grown variety in Australia with purple tops and yellow flesh. Produces uniform, globe-shaped roots with sweet, fine-grained flesh. Good storage capabilities and matures in about 90-100 days.
• Helenor: An excellent variety that develops good colour early in root development. Produces round, uniform roots with light orange flesh and a sweet flavour. High-yielding and stores well, maturing in approximately 90 days.
• American Purple Top: Similar to Laurentian with purple tops and yellow flesh. Reliable producer with good disease resistance and excellent flavour. Matures in 90-100 days.
• Wilhelmsburger: A German heirloom variety with green tops and golden flesh. Known for its excellent flavour and good storage qualities. Matures in approximately 100-110 days.

References

1. Bubel, Nancy. The New Seed-Starters Handbook. Rodale Books, 2018.
2. Crawford D. Garden Pests, Disease and Good Bugs. Australia: ABC Books; 2015.
3. Dove, Helena. Botany of the Kitchen Garden, Kew Publishing, Royal Botanic Gardens Kew, UK, 2023. 
4. Fanton, Michel and Jude. The Seed Savers Handbook. The Seed Savers Network, Australia, 1993.
5. Yates Australia. How to Grow Swede [Internet]. 2024 [cited 2025 May 6]. Available from: https://www.yates.com.au/how-to-grow/swede/

Optimum soil temperature for germination: 21-32°C

Plant seedlings: October-January

Plant spacing: 50-100 cm

Days to maturity: 50-110 days

Introduction

Squash (Cucurbita spp.) belongs to the Cucurbitaceae family along with pumpkins, zucchini, melons, and cucumbers. The term “squash” encompasses a diverse range of varieties, with two main categories: summer squash e.g. zucchini, pattypan squash, tromboncino that are harvested while immature with tender skin; and winter squash e.g. butternut, crookneck, Hubbard that are harvested when fully mature with hard rinds for storage.

It is useful to know which varieties belong to each species because varieties of the same species will cross pollinate.

Cucubita pepo incudes zucchini, pattypan squash, acorn squash, Delicata and spaghetti squash

Cucurbita moschata incudes butternut and crookneck squash

Cucurbita maxima includes larger pumpkins such as Hubbard, Jarrahdale, Ironbark

Squash originated in the Americas, with evidence of cultivation dating back over 8,000 years in Mexico and Central America. Indigenous peoples grew various squash species for their nutritional value, versatility, and storage capabilities. Today, squash is grown worldwide and prized for its culinary versatility and nutritional benefits.

Squash plants possess large, lobed leaves with both male and female flowers on the same plant. The male flowers appear first, followed by female flowers that have a small, round, swollen ovary at their base. Summer squash varieties like zucchini and patty pan have a bushy growth habit, while many winter squash varieties produce sprawling vines.

Site and soil

Squash thrives in full sun, requiring at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal growth and fruit development. In Canberra’s climate, choose a sheltered position protected from strong winds and frost.

Squash prefers rich, well-drained soil with high organic matter content. Before planting, prepare the soil by incorporating plenty of compost and aged manure. Form small mounds or hills about 15-20 cm high and 50-100 cm apart to improve drainage and help the soil warm more quickly in spring.

The ideal soil pH for squash is between 6.0 and 6.8. If your soil is too acidic (below pH 6.0), add lime or dolomite to raise the pH. If it’s too alkaline (above pH 7.0), sulfur can be added to lower it.

If growing in containers, choose large pots at least 40-50 cm wide and deep with good drainage. Use a high-quality potting mix enriched with compost. Note that bush varieties of summer squash are better suited to container growing than vining winter squash types.

For details on preparing the soil and pots, including the use of lime, dolomite, gypsum and fertilisers please refer to the COGS guide to garden bed preparation.

Planting Seeds and Seedlings

In Canberra, squash should be sown after the danger of frost has passed and soil temperatures have warmed to at least 21°C. This is typically from early October to December. The optimum soil temperature for germination is between 21-35°C.

For direct sowing, create small mounds spaced 50-100 cm apart (depending on the variety) and plant 3-4 seeds per mound at a depth of approximately 2-3 cm. Water gently but thoroughly after planting. Once seedlings emerge and develop their first true leaves, thin to the strongest 1-2 plants per mound.

To get a head start on the growing season, seeds can be started indoors in individual pots, not cell trays, 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost. If available, biodegradable pots minimize root disturbance during transplanting, as squash seedlings don’t like their roots being disturbed. Otherwise, regular pots can be used successfully. Plant seedlings outdoors once all danger of frost has passed and seedlings have 2-3 true leaves.

For those purchasing seedlings, look for healthy plants with strong stems and no signs of disease or pest damage. Plant at the same level as they were growing in their containers, being careful not to disturb the roots.

After planting, water thoroughly with a seaweed solution to reduce transplant shock and stimulate root development. Apply a layer of organic mulch such as straw or sugar cane mulch around plants (but not touching the stems) to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep developing fruits clean.

Cultivation

Squash plants need consistent watering, especially during flowering and fruit development. Water at the base of plants rather than overhead to reduce the risk of fungal diseases. In Canberra’s hot summer weather, frequent watering may be necessary.

If not used at planting time, apply a balanced organic fertilizer when plants begin to flower and set fruit. Foliar applications of seaweed extract or a combination of seaweed, compost tea and worm juice every 2-3 weeks can help provide trace elements and strengthen plants against pests and diseases.

For winter squash, consider providing a trellis or support structure for the vines if space is limited. However, if growing squash on a trellis, the developing fruits may need support with slings made from old stockings or fabric. 

Summer squash plants generally have a bushier habit but can still spread 60-90 cm. Winter squash vines can spread 1.5-3 meters or more, so plan accordingly.

Hand pollination may be necessary if there are insufficient pollinators or during periods of extreme heat or rain that limit bee activity. To hand pollinate, transfer pollen from a male flower (with a straight stem) to a female flower (with a small, round swelling at its base) using a small paintbrush or by removing the male flower and touching its centre to the centre of the female flower.

Harvesting

Summer squash varieties like zucchini, patty pan and crookneck, should be harvested when young and tender, usually when they’re 10-15 cm in size. Harvest frequently, every second day, to encourage continued production. Summer squash is typically ready to harvest 50-60 days from planting.

Winter squash varieties like butternut, Hubbard, Ironbark, and spaghetti squash should be left on the vine until the rind is hard and cannot be pierced with a fingernail. The stem should be dry and corky, and the fruit should have reached full size and colour for its variety. This is usually 70-120 days after planting, depending on the variety. Some like to wait until after the first frost to harvest winter squash, however, this is not necessary. The main sign is that the leaves have died off and stopped pumping photosynthate into the fruit, at which point the stem will be hard and corky.

For both types, use a sharp knife or pruning shears to cut the fruit from the vine, leaving a short stem attached. 

Handle winter squash carefully to avoid bruising, which can lead to decay during storage. Never pull or twist fruits off as this can damage the fruit leaving a passage for fungi to enter and rot the fruit from the inside. Make sure fruit are clean and dry prior after harvest, Curing involves storing them in a warm place for a few weeks during which time some of the starches are broken down into sugars sweetening the fruit and the skin hardens. Thereafter they can be stored in a cool, dark place.

Summer squash should be used within a week of harvesting. Properly cured winter squash can be stored for several months in a cool (10-15°C), dry place with good air circulation.

Problems

There are numerous pests and diseases that can affect squash. The best approach is to have a reliable Australian reference book to identify problems. Garden Pests, Disease and Good Bugs by Denis Crawford is recommended.

A general strategy to follow with any problem is to observe the plant carefully before taking action. Identify the problem then carefully consider the course of action. For example, with pest insects, you often can see a predator nearby. If you watch and wait the predator may deal with the problem for you. Beneficial predatory insects which feed on pest insects can be purchased from suppliers such as Bugs for Bugs. If the problem needs further action the above recommended book has suggestions. 

Practicing good garden hygiene, crop rotation, and maintaining plant vigour by providing adequate nutrients are key strategies for prevention.

Several pests and diseases can affect squash in Canberra’s climate:

Wilting leaves during the day. It is common for the leaves to wilt during the day. As long as they perk up again in the evening it is not a problem. If not, you need to give them more water.

Powdery mildew is one of the most common diseases affecting squash, appearing as a white powdery coating on leaves. It thrives in warm, dry conditions and spreads rapidly. To prevent it, ensure good air circulation around plants by proper spacing. A spray made of 1 tablespoon baking soda mixed with 2 teaspoons of horticultural oil in 4 liters of water can help control mild infections. Alternatively, a milk spray (1 part milk to 9 parts water) or seaweed solution applied weekly can be effective.

Downy mildew appears as yellow spots on leaf surfaces with grey fuzzy growth underneath. Unlike powdery mildew, it favours cool, humid conditions. Improve air circulation and avoid overhead watering to help prevent it.

Aphids These small sap-sucking insects can transmit celery mosaic virus. They often cluster on the undersides of leaves, causing distortion and stunting. Small populations can be controlled by washing them off with a strong stream of water or using insecticidal soap. Alternatively, neem oil or pyrethrin can be used. Beneficial predators like ladybugs and lacewings should be encouraged and can be purchased for release on the crop. Look for aphid mummies which are evidence that the aphid has been parasitised. Eggs can also be parasitised and will appear bronze in colour. Generally speaking, plants that are high in soluble nitrogen (nitrates and ammonia) are prone to attack by sap sucking insects. Ideally avoid using soluble nitrogen fertilisers and ensure plants have adequate trace elements. This can be achieved by using foliar sprays.

Cucumber beetles are small yellow and black striped or spotted beetles that can damage leaves and spread bacterial wilt. Row covers can protect young plants until they start flowering.

Fruit rot can occur when fruits are in contact with damp soil. Use mulch or place a tile or board under developing fruits to keep them dry.

Not enough fruit. Apparently hot weather favours the production of male flowers at the expense of female flowers whereas cooler weather favours female flowers. Therefore in hot weather, if there are less female flowers there will be less fruit. It is quite normal for one vine to only produce 2-3 fruits especially if they are large.

To reduce pest and disease problems, practice crop rotation by not growing squash or related crops (cucumbers, melons, pumpkins) in the same location for at least 2-3 years. Remove and dispose of any diseased plant material at the end of the season, and maintain good garden hygiene.

Recommended Varieties

Winter and summer squash varieties perform well in Canberra’s climate. For zucchini and summer squash suggestions see the Guide for Growing Zucchini.

There are many varieties of winter squash to choose from. Some suggestions are: Waltham butternut, Australian Butter, Triamble, Ironbark, Potimaron, Futsu, Jap, Jarrahdale and Spaghetti squash (features pale yellow, oblong fruits with stringy flesh that resembles spaghetti when cooked. Excellent storage life).

Look for varieties with powdery mildew resistance (sometimes labelled as “PMR”) for best results in Canberra’s conditions. Local nurseries, farmers markets, and local seed suppliers can provide varieties that are well-adapted to the region.

References

1. Bubel, Nancy. The New Seed-Starters Handbook. Rodale Books, 2018.
2. Crawford D. Garden Pests, Disease and Good Bugs. Australia: ABC Books; 2015.
3. Dove, Helena. Botany of the Kitchen Garden, Kew Publishing, Royal Botanic Gardens Kew, UK, 2023. 
4. Fanton, Michel and Jude. The Seed Savers Handbook. The Seed Savers Network, Australia, 1993.
5. Gardenate. Growing Squash (Crookneck, Pattypan, Summer squash) in Australia – temperate climate [Internet]. 2024 [cited 2025 May 6]. Available from: https://www.gardenate.com/plant/Squash
6. The Seed Collection. How to Grow Summer Squash Seeds [Internet]. 2024 [cited 2025 May 6]. Available from: https://www.theseedcollection.com.au/growguide/summer-squash-seeds
7. Yates Australia. How to Grow Squash [Internet]. 2024 [cited 2025 May 6]. Available from: https://www.yates.com.au/how-to-grow/squash/

Optimum soil temperature for germination: 10-24°C

Plant seedlings: April-May, September

Plant spacing: 5-10 cm

Days to maturity: 55-90 days

Introduction

Snow peas (Pisum sativum var. macrocarpum), are also called mange-tout which means “eat all” in French, belong to the Fabaceae family. Unlike traditional garden peas, snow peas have edible flat pods that are harvested before the seeds inside fully develop. Sugar snap peas have expanded seeds inside an edible rounded pod. All types of peas are planted in the same way.

Snow peas have been cultivated for centuries, originating in the Mediterranean region and Central Asia. They were first introduced to Europe in the 16th century and later spread worldwide due to their versatility in cooking and nutritional benefits. They are particularly popular in Asian cuisine, especially stir-fries, and can be enjoyed both raw and cooked.

The plants produce delicate white, pink or purple flowers, depending on the variety. Snow peas grow best at temperatures between 15 and 20⁰ C making them well-suited to Canberra’s climate when planted at the appropriate time.

Site and soil

Snow peas grow best in full sun, requiring at least 6 hours of sunlight daily for optimal growth. Plants can can tolerate light frost once established, but flowers and developing pods may be damaged by heavy frost and temperatures above 30⁰ C.

They prefer well-draining soil that’s rich in organic matter with a pH between 5.8 and 6.8. Before planting, prepare the soil by incorporating compost or well-rotted manure and complete organic fertiliser 2-3 weeks prior to planting to improve fertility and structure.

Snow peas, like all legumes, can convert nitrogen from the air into forms of nitrogen used by plants. This is achieved through nodules on their roots that house nitrogen fixing bacteria, therefore they do not require nitrogen-rich soil. They perform well following heavy-feeding crops in your rotation plan.

If growing in pots, use a good quality potting mix enriched with compost. Choose containers at least 20-30 cm deep and wide to accommodate their root system.

For details on preparing the soil and pots, including the use of lime, dolomite, gypsum and fertilizers please refer to the COGS guide to garden bed preparation.

Planting Seeds and Seedlings

In Canberra, snow peas can be sown in two windows. Keep in mind that they grow best between 15-20⁰ C in the day and 7-18⁰C at night. Planting from March to May allows seed to germinate before it gets really cold. Plants will grow slowly then take off in spring and flower, producing pods in spring and early summer before the heat prevents further flowering. Alternatively, plant seeds in August or early September so that they grow quickly and produce before the heat of summer. The optimum soil temperature for germination is 10-24°C.

Sow seeds directly into the garden bed approximately 2-3 cm deep, spaced 5-10 cm apart in rows far enough apart to allow harvesting from both sides of the trellis or supporting structure. Dwarf varieties may need more space between rows as they have a broader growth habit than climbing varieties.

To prevent seed rot, plant into moist soil and avoid watering until germination occurs, which usually takes 7-10 days. Some people find that soaking seed for 24hours prior to planting speeds up germination. In cold weather, germination may be slower. 

Snow peas can be raised as seedlings for transplanting later. However, they prefer direct sowing as they don’t always transplant well due to their delicate root systems. It is far more cost effective to sow pea seed than to purchase seedlings. If starting in pots, sow 2-3 seeds per pot and thin to the strongest seedling once they have their first true leaves. Seedlings can be transplanted when they have 4-5 sets of leaves.

Set up supports for climbing varieties at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. For climbing varieties, supports should be 1.5-2 meters tall.

After planting, a light application of seaweed solution will help prevent transplant shock and stimulate growth.

Cultivation

Snow peas are a cool-season crop growing well when day time temperatures are below 30⁰ C Once established, mature plants can tolerate light frosts, though heavy frosts may kill plants, damage flowers and prevent pod formation.

Climbing varieties need sturdy support structures at least 2 meters tall. Traditional options include bamboo teepees, trellises, or netting attached to a sturdy frame. Gridded galvanised sheep panel mesh attached to star pickets works well and will last for many years. Install supports prior to planting to avoid disturbing roots later. Plants may need their tendrils directed towards the supporting structure. Once attached the plants will climb easily. Dwarf varieties generally don’t need support but may benefit from light staking in exposed areas to prevent wind damage. Some gardeners use low brush fencing or twiggy branches to provide light support for dwarf varieties.

Regular watering is essential, particularly during flowering and pod development. Aim to keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Newly planted seedlings may need watering once or twice a day during warm weather. Insert your finger into the soil to check moisture levels – soil should feel cool and moist, if it feels dry, the plants need water.

A monthly foliar spray with seaweed solution; a mix of worm juice, seaweed and compost tea; or trace elements will help boost growth and resilience to pests and diseases.

Mulching with organic materials like straw, lucerne hay, or sugar cane mulch helps retain soil moisture, feeds soil microbes, suppress weeds, and keep roots cool during warmer weather.

Weed regularly, especially when plants are young, as weeds compete for nutrients, water, and light.

Harvesting

Snow peas should be harvested when pods are flat and tender, typically around 55-90 days after planting, depending on growing conditions and variety. The pods should be picked before the peas inside begin to swell significantly.

For the best flavour and texture, harvest in the morning and when pods are young – about 7-8 cm long for most varieties. Regular harvesting (every 2-3 days) encourages the plant to keep producing flowers and pods, extending the harvest period.

To harvest, hold the vine with one hand and gently snap or cut the pod from the plant with the other hand. Using scissors or garden snips can help avoid damaging the plant.

Snow pea shoots and flowers are also edible and make excellent garnishes and additions to salads.

After the final harvest, cut the plants off at ground level rather than pulling them out. This allows the nitrogen fixing nodules to break down in the soil, releasing nutrients for the next crop.

Problems

The best approach is to have a reliable Australian reference book to identify problems. Garden Pests, Disease and Good Bugs by Denis Crawford is recommended.

A general strategy to follow with any problem is to observe the plant carefully before taking action. Identify the problem then carefully consider the course of action. For example, with pest insects, you often can see a predator nearby. If you watch and wait the predator may deal with the problem for you. Beneficial predatory insects which feed on pest insects can be purchased from suppliers such as Bugs for Bugs. If the problem needs further action the above recommended book has suggestions.

Practicing good garden hygiene, crop rotation, and maintaining plant vigour by providing adequate nutrients are key strategies for prevention.

Several pests and diseases can affect snow peas grown in Canberra’s cool temperate climate:

• Slugs and snails can be particularly problematic for young seedlings. Use physical barriers like eggshells, coffee grounds, or commercially available slug and snail baits (iron EDTA). Checking plants and surrounding habitat in the evening or early morning to collect slugs and snails is a good idea.
• Birds and mice may eat seeds before germination. Protect newly sown seeds with netting or plant extra to compensate for losses.
• Aphids These small sap-sucking insects can cluster on the undersides of leaves, causing distortion and stunting. Control with insecticidal soap, neem oil, pyrethrin or by encouraging beneficial predators like ladybugs and lacewings. Look for aphid mummies which are evidence that the aphid has been parasitised. Eggs can also be parasitised and will appear bronze in colour. Generally speaking, plants that are high in soluble nitrogen (nitrates and ammonia) are prone to attack by sap sucking insects. Ideally avoid using soluble nitrogen fertilisers and ensure plants have adequate trace elements. This can be achieved by using foliar sprays.
• Powdery mildew is the most common disease affecting snow peas, appearing as a white powder on leaves and stems, particularly in warm, humid conditions or when plants are stressed. Good air circulation, avoiding overhead watering, and a spray made from 1 part milk to 9 parts water can help control mild cases. For prevention, choose varieties with resistance to powdery mildew.
• Root rot can occur in poorly drained soils, causing yellowing and wilting of plants. Ensure good drainage and practice crop rotation to avoid this issue.

Practice a 3–4-year rotation for all legumes to prevent the buildup of soil-borne diseases. Avoid planting snow peas after other peas or beans to reduce the risk of pest and disease transfer.

Recommended Varieties

Local nurseries, farmers markets, and specialized seed suppliers are good sources for obtaining varieties suited to Canberra’s growing conditions. Several snow pea varieties perform well in Canberra’s climate:

• Oregon Giant: A popular commercial variety reaching 1-1.3 meters tall with large, flat pods up to 14 cm long. Shows some resistance to powdery mildew.
• Oregon (bush): A more compact variety growing to about 70 cm, good for small gardens or growing in pots.
• Mammoth Melting: A tall variety (up to 2 meters) that produces large, sweet pods and is a heavy cropper.
• Yakumo: Features attractive purple flowers and large, flat pods. Plants can grow 2-2.5 meters tall.
• Golden Sweet: Produces unusual yellow pods and can grow to 2 meters tall. Best picked young before pods develop bitterness.
• Dwarf Grey Sugar: A smaller variety that doesn’t require as much support, making it suitable for containers or small spaces.

References

1. ActiveVista. Oregon Giant Snow Pea Seed [Internet]. 2024. Available from: https://www.activevista.com.au/product/oregon-giant-snow-pea/
2. Bubel, Nancy. The New Seed-Starters Handbook. Rodale Books, 2018.
3. Crawford D. Garden Pests, Disease and Good Bugs. Australia: ABC Books; 2015.
4. Dove, Helena. Botany of the Kitchen Garden, Kew Publishing, Royal Botanic Gardens Kew, UK, 2023. 
5. Fanton, Michel and Jude. The Seed Savers Handbook. The Seed Savers Network, Australia, 1993.
6. Johnny’s Selected Seeds. Growing Peas: Planting, Spacing, Care & Diseases [Internet]. 2025 [cited 2025 May 6]. Available from: https://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-library/vegetables/peas/peas-key-growing-information.html