The boom truck lifted 24 sheets of 4′ x 12′ sheetrock up to the bedroom window opening on the second floor where workers pulled them into the room to be ready for the install crew next week.  There will be some exciting progress here in the coming days– stay tuned!

Going down to the utility room to investigate, I discovered a disaster: the water heater tank had failed and water was leaking out all over the floor and into the adjoining carpeted play room.

Ms. Bungalow and I were so busy running around with the shop vac, mop and towels that I didn’t take any pictures of the mess.  When the initial puddle was under control and I had calmed down a bit, I realized I could connect a garden house to the water heater and drain it to the sink or floor drain in the laundry room.

Fast forward to the following afternoon.  The plumbing contractor sent by my natural gas utility was putting the finishing touches on the installation of a new 12-year tank water heater.  There goes the tax refund!

It looks good sitting next to my 87-year-old boiler, don’t you think?

During the installation, the contractor also determined that a couple code compliance upgrades were necessary.  Specifically, I needed to replace the gas shutoff valve for the water heater, and close the current chimney vent instead connecting the exhaust ductwork to the chimney liner serving the boiler.  These are definitely items I wouldn’t have caught if I had attempted to install a water heater myself.

Water Heater Tips

• Drain the tank. To extend the equipment lifespan, drain a couple gallons from the water heater tank twice a year to flush out sediments.
• Inspect the sacrificial anode rod periodically. My plumbing contractor confided that the anode rods in modern water heaters are designed to only make the tank last through its warranty period, so replacing a worn-down rod could help the water heater last longer.
• Check for equipment rebates with your utility company and government programs when making an upgrade.
• Consider the warranty.  Because I bought the water heater through my utility, they will warrant the equipment and labor for 12 years.  If this water heater dies 11 years from now, the utility company will pay for a replacement and the labor to install it.
• Run the numbers on tankless water heaters. Tankless water heaters are much more efficient than tank models and also more expensive, so the break even cost point will depend on the price of fuel, water use, maintenance expenses, and length of time in service.

First the reflection: chemical stripping a radiator was tedious, laborious, odious, noxious;  in short, a massive pain.  I chose chemical stripping after determining off-site paint removal wasn’t feasible in this case, and because– if the stripping was happening indoors– I wanted a low-dust solution.  That is still sound reasoning, but for my next radiator I will look much harder at using some form of abrasive paint removal, whether indoors or, ideally, off-site.

Priming and Painting

My work since completing the stripping has been fast and easy.  Before refinishing  began, I washed the bare metal with water, wiped it dry and brushed out any remaining debris or dust.  A flexible, wand-shaped short-bristled radiator brush is essential equipment that I had no trouble finding at a local hardware store.

To prepare the radiator for repainting, I covered the floor and walls of the surrounding area with overlapping cardboard or plastic sheeting.  Then, after masking the bleed valve and connecting pipes, I applied an even cover of Rustoleum Professional primer.  It took two spray cans of primer applied lightly in three sessions to fully prime the radiator.

I followed the primer with a finish paint in a dark bronze metallic color.  This is a close match to the finish of the original door hardware throughout the house, though probably darker than the original radiator finish.  This color is actually pretty close the color of the unpainted cast iron before priming and painting. Like with the primer, I tried to use several light coats to achieve full coverage.  The finish took three cans of spray paint– and that was with light coverage on the wall-facing side of the radiator.

Will this paint job last?

Because I was able to prime and paint over bare metal, and because the paint is applied in thin spray coats instead of brushed, I expect the finish on this radiator to last a long time.  Although I have read of others using high-heat paint intended for ovens, grills and engines on their radiators, the hot water in my heating system won’t get nearly hot enough to give this finish a problem.  Finally, my choice of color is deliberately intended to extend the longevity of the finish.  Beyond my personal preference for metal to look like metal, the bronze color which deliberately doesn’t match the walls or trim shouldn’t require future repainting in order to maintain the match when wall or trim paint is freshened.

Now the radiator will have to wait until the rest of the room is finished before it can be returned to its place and be reconnected.  In the meantime, I will wrap it in plastic to keep away the drywall dust and try to find an out-of-the-way spot for it to sit until then.

I made a spreadsheet of the past three years of bills for both natural gas (boiler, range, and clothes dryer) and electricity.  For each bill, I charted both the cost in dollars and the amount of energy consumption– therms for gas and kilowatt hours for electricity.  Due to price fluctuations, the consumption figures are more useful for tracking any trends or changes in real energy usage.

The gas usage chart above includes only one bill from after the insulation was installed, so I’ll have to return to this in a few months to a year when I have more data for comparison.  However, the chart already shows some significant variability during the winter months that I attribute to temperature fluctuation.

When I charted the electrical usage, I was surprised to find a 23% reduction in usage for 2009 compared to the previous year.  I made the switch to compact fluorescent lightbulbs years ago and was stumped for an explanation for the decrease.  Then it hit me: at the end of 2008 we started using a low-power netbook as the primary computer in the house and kept our old desktop pc turned off almost all the time.

Based on the cost savings for this reduction in kWh, the netbook has already repaid half of its purchase price– and it performs much better than the computer it replaced.

When I have more data collected on gas usage through this year, I hope I’ll find a similar cost-saving story about my new insulation.

So with those dusty old home ec skills–and visions of homemade curtains–dancing in my head, I gave my new-to-me vintage sewing machine its first run.

My machine is a White De Luxe automatic sewing machine model 674.  I can’t find a date on the machine or the owner’s manual, but it’s old enough to be all metal, heavy, and made in Japan.  They really don’t make ‘em like this anymore, and if they did you couldn’t buy a new one for the $60 I paid the guy on Craigslist.

For this first adventure with Ol’ Whitey I just wanted to get familiar with the parts and functions, and do some maintenance.  I oiled the lubrication points indicated in the owner’s manual and removed grime from nooks and crannies with cotton swabs dipped in alcohol.

Then I filled a couple bobbins and learned how to thread the machine to practice stitching.  After making some adjustments to the thread tension, bobbin thread tension and stitch length, my practices stitches were looking very promising.  I’ve still got a lot to learn about the sewing machine’s basic and advanced features– not to mention re-learning what I’ve forgotten about sewing since 8th grade, but an actual sewing project doesn’t feel that far off.

Are you a seamstress/seamster?  What advice would you give someone with modest goals just starting out?

The idea is simple: use the existing electrical wiring to transmit computer information between different parts of the house. And installation couldn’t be simpler.  Just plug a transmitter box into an outlet in each the rooms to be networked and connect your computer, modem, xbox, router or other networkable device using ethernet cable.  The networking devices automatically find each other with no configuration, and data encryption happens at the push of a button.

Powerline networking has some distinct advantages and limitations.  Compared to running networking cable through existing walls, powerline networking is fast and easy to install.  However, its performance is dependent on the quality of the house wiring used.  Compared to wi-fi, powerline networking offers the stability of a hardwired connection but at fixed location.

Here at Bungalow ‘23, I am using powerline networking to connect my modem to the entertainment center and a wifi router.  Since I installed it, I have seen a significant improvement in the speed and stability of video streaming that I hadn’t achieved with a wi-fi signal from two plaster-walled rooms away. Others with older houses might find a powerline system a useful option for difficult-to-network homes.

(photo by Schoolhouse Electric)

I think of Schoolhouse Electric primarily for their painted schoolhouse globes (natch) and accompanying fixtures.  However, I was surprised to see the variety of interesting and beautiful lights in their collection, running the stylistic gamut from traditional to classic modern.  Maybe this will be the year I put some Schoolhouse in my house.

In case you missed them, here are some of my highlights from the past year:

• I found an amazing salvage deal on a kitchen swinging door and hardware that perfectly matches the other doors on the main level.
• My how-to on replacing the cartridge in my Moen shower faucet has become the most visited and commented post on the site by far, and currently appears on the first page of google results for some related searches.
• I built a pair of custom-designed adirondack chairs for the front yard, completing a project I’ve had in mind since we bought the house.
• Craigslist came through with a great deal on an antique buffet for the dining room that adds a lot of Arts & Crafts character to a room that desperately needed it.
• I liveblogged the installation of spray foam insulation in the bedroom project area and adjacent attic crawlspaces.  This was a major milestone in a long-delayed project.
• Finally, I was selected to write for True Value Hardware’s DIY Blog Squad. This provided me with $1,000 that I put to use on a variety of house projects and gave this site some amazing exposure. Thanks, True Value!

Speaking of True Value, I discovered that their website has some great content– especially the project library with do-it-yourself tips and projects on a tremendous variety of topics.  It’s a useful reference resource that is worth bookmarking.

And if you haven’t visited the other DIY Blog Squad members, here is one last shout out to those excellent sites:

• The Handyguys Podcast
• Bower Power
• The Lettered Cottage
• Young House Love

As for 2010, I have high hopes it will be an even better year than the one just past.  Completing the bedroom project is a certainty, and painting the exterior, a necessity.  Once our living arrangements have been reshuffled into the renovated bedroom, I will choose a new interior room to work on, too.  At this point, I suspect that project room would be the office, which still needs some help from when I uncovered two hidden windows there nearly four years ago.  I also recently bought an old sewing machine (post coming soon) with the intention of sewing curtains.  I’d be disappointed if I finished 2010 without any completed sewing projects.

Sash Cord and Weights

There is just something genuine about the mechanics of old double-hung windows. Their simple combination of pulleys, weights and rope achieves an amazing result: leveraging gravity to hold something up. Plus today’s windows with vinyl friction jambs just can’t compete with sash weights for smooth operation or longevity. Embrace your weights!

To ensure a long-lasting restoration, I replaced all the sash cord with new 1/4″ nylon cord.  My local True Value hardware had both nylon multipurpose rope and cotton-over-nylon sash cord.  I chose the nylon for its superior strength and resistance to rot, though the look of the nylon casing sacrifices a bit of authenticity.

To tie the sash cord to the weights, I picked the bowline knot from my repertoire of old Eagle Scout skills. The bowline is a good choice for this application because it forms a loop that does not close– once the knot is tight, there should be no slippage that could take the weights out of adjustment.

The tied weights then go back in their pockets alongside the window jambs, with the sash cords fed up and over the reinstalled pulleys.

Weatherstripping

My principal reference for how to restore these windows is a book I’ve mentioned before: “Working Windows” by Terry Meany. Meany recommends a combination of modern and traditional weatherstripping for old couble-hung windows that I have implemented here.

For the lower sashes, Meany calls for traditional spring bronze, sometimes called brass spring, nailed to the jambs.  Although this material is less commonly available than it once was, I had no trouble finding it at a store right in my neighborhood.

Installing spring bronze is a bit putzy because it must be nailed every inch-and-a-half or so. It’s also important to use a nailset to sink the nail heads a bit or they will gouge up the sides of the window sashes. My spring bronze is cut to one inch longer than the height of the lower sash and trimmed to a curve on top to prevent damaging the sash or bending a corner on the weatherstrip when the sash is fully opened. To create the spring action in the spring bronze, run a slotted screwdriver down the groove you’ll find next to the nailing edge of the weatherstrip.

If you look closely at the picture above you’ll see a section of white vinyl weatherstripping for the upper sash in addition to the fully-installed spring bronze. The reason spring bronze isn’t ideal for the upper sash is that there is no way to use it around the pulley.  Adhesive-backed vinyl “V” weatherstrip fixes that problem– here’s how:

First, some background: the vinyl weatherstrip comes as a roll, typically sold in nice, round, 17-foot lengths.  The True Value hardware nearest to me had it in stock in both white and brown for just a few dollars a roll. Also, you may see it labeled as 7/8 inch wide, but this is the unfolded width.  Folded, it is… wait for it… half that width (7/16″). Because it is installed folded, 7/16″  is the more useful and accurate width dimension.

Unlike the spring bronze, which was installed on the jamb of the window frame, the adhesive vinyl is attached to the exterior stop.  The exterior stop is the part of the window frame that forms the outside edge of the “track” that holds the upper sash.  Correctly installed, the “V” of the weatherstrip will point to the corner.  The following picture shows proper installation and how this fixes the “pulley problem” I mentioned above.

When the upper sash is reinstalled, I will close the “V” as the sash is positioned. The weatherstrip will then press against the upper sash and prevent air from infiltrating through the space between the side of the sash and the window frame. Although the vinyl material and adhesive attachment method are far less durable than the spring bronze, the upper sash is also a less demanding location than the lower sash, so I expect it to hold up well.

—

Paint removal was the most laborious and hazardous part of the window restoration I’ve undertaken so far. But if you have old double-hung windows that don’t require paint stripping– or if you can hire someone else to do that part of the work– I think many people would find weatherstripping an easy and affordable DIY project.

Disclosure: I was one of five bloggers selected by True Value to work on the DIY Squad. I have been compensated for my time commitment to the program and my DIY project as well as my posts about my experience. I have also been compensated for the materials needed for my DIY project. However, my opinions are entirely my own and I have not been paid to publish positive comments.

But the greenest–and likely cheapest–solution for old windows showing their age is to fix the windows you already have. And this is the best kept secret of old windows: unlike the new windows that too often replace them, old windows are made to be repairable. What’s more, when properly fitted with caulking, weatherstripping, and a tight-fitting wooden storm window they can compete on performance with new storm-less thermal pane replacements.

Meanwhile, back at Bungalow ‘23…

When we last saw the project bedroom window frames, they were being stripped of paint.  The next steps in the restoration include repainting the frames, cleaning the mechanical parts, replacing sash cord and attaching new weatherstripping. The supplies for this work are easily and cheaply available at your local hardware store– I had no problem finding oil primer, quality paint brushes and sash cord at my neighborhood True Value store.

In fact, your local hardware store can be an excellent resource for window restoration. Besides selling the necessary supplies (like primer, paint, brushes, sash cord, weatherstripping, caulk, glass, glazers points, glazing compound, etc.) these stores often offer  reglazing service if you would rather have someone else set the glass in the window. Or if you want to outsource the whole window restoration project, the staff at your local hardware store will probably have a referral or two for you– after all, they probably outfit these people with their supplies.

Repainting

Primer is the key to an effective paint job, and all my reading and recommendations encouraged oil-based primer for the windows. On bare wood, oil primer bites into the wood and is absorbed more deeply than water-based latex. It is worth the hassle of cleaning up with paint thinner. Once primed, I put two coats of high-quality acrylic latex paint over the primer.  My paint was color matched to “Light Antique Buff” from Sherwin William’s historic color palate for Arts & Crafts interiors. This color has nice warmth to it without being too buttery.

When deconstructing the windows, I couldn’t help destroying the parting which had been well painted to both the upper sashes and the window frame. Fortunately, replacement parting stop was available at a nearby lumber yard for just $4 per 8 foot length. The parting stop is a strip of wood that fits between the sashes forming part of the track the sashes slide within. After I finish restoring the upper sashes of the windows, the parting stop will go in the slot seen in the photo above. For now, I have primed and painted the new parting stop to match the window frames.

Hardware

Like the window frames they attach to, the pulley hardware required paint removal. I accomplished this by boiling the pulleys in a mild baking soda & water solution for an hour or so– a technique I’ve also used successfully on my entry light and other house parts. After their bath, I oiled the parts to prevent rust and help the pulleys roll smoothly. (The photo below also shows the original roller shade hardware, which I plan to re-install.)

To see these pulleys back in place, stay tuned for the second part of this window restoration series, which focuses on sash weights and weatherstripping.

Disclosure: I was one of five bloggers selected by True Value to work on the DIY Squad. I have been compensated for my time commitment to the program and my DIY project as well as my posts about my experience. I have also been compensated for the materials needed for my DIY project. However, my opinions are entirely my own and I have not been paid to publish positive comments.