Purchase Equipment for Kegging Homebrewed Beer

I must say when I found and purchased the Brew Logic Dual Tap System from midwestsupplies.com I was a bit skeptical, considering other sites/stores were selling the same setup for $100 more.  But what a deal it was, I have been using the setup since Nov. 2009 and haven’t encountered a single problem, I have recommended it to a bunch of friends and everyone has been really happy with it.   

dual keg setup

Here is what the kit for kegging homebrewed beer comes with, feel free to shop around:   

1. Two reconditioned 5 gallon SS Cornelius kegs
2. 5 lb New Aluminum CO2 tank
3. Double dual gauge CO2 regulator
4. Two hand held taps (the keg party kind)
5. Gas lines with disconnects   

Total: $200   

Cleaning / Sanitizing the Kegs (15 minutes)

Once your beer has completed fermentation it is time to carbonate it and serve it.  To start things off the kegs will need to be cleaned and  sanitized. To clean the kegs first start out by removing the posts on both the gas and beer sides (it helps to use a deep socket).    

remove keg posts

Soak all posts, tubes, poppets in a mixture of a teaspoon of beer brite and a gallon of water for 5 minutes.  Once 5 minutes has past,  assemble the keg and dump the beer brite/water solution into it.  Close the lid, shake it for 2-3 minutes and dump out the solution.  After cleaning is complete, fill the keg with about 1-2 gallons of water and a cap full of the star san (food grade sanitizer).

add water to keg

add star san to keg

 
Place the cap back on the keg, shake it for 2 minutes and hook up the beer and gas lines.  Keep in mind that the gas(IN) post and beer(OUT) post are completely different sizes, so make sure you connect to the correct post.  The gas(IN) post should have a line indention around the post.   

gas side post

Open the valve to the CO2 tank and pressurize the keg, when it reaches 10 psi disconnect the gas line and open the beer line.  This will allow all the sanitizing solution to pass through the keg.  Once all of the sanitizing solution is out of the keg, pull the pressure release valve to release the rest of the CO2 and then open the lid completely.  The keg is now ready for beer.   

Transferring Beer to the Kegs (15 minutes)

Transferring beer from a carboy, bucket or conical to the keg is relatively easy.  Just make sure all of the equipment used to transfer the beer is sanitized.  If using a carboy or bucket I prefer to put it on a kitchen counter and siphon it with a little help from gravity.  Notice the star san bubbles rising to the top, this is normal and will not affect the beer.    

transfer the beer into the keg

Once you have completely transferred all the beer (~5 gallons),  apply a bit of keg lube.  Apply the keg lube to the outside of the rubber gasket that wraps around the lid, this will help prevent any minor air leaks. After applying the keg lube, close the lid and get ready to carbonate.     

keg lube

Carbonating the Beer (3-4 days)

The first step in carbonation is getting all of the oxygen out of the keg, often called purging.  To do this, connect the gas line and hit the keg with around 20 psi.   When you hear the gas stop flowing, open the pressure release valve for a few seconds and let the oxygen out (oxygen is lighter then CO2 so it rises to the top).     

pull pressure release valve

Repeating this process about 4-5 times should be enough to get all of the oxygen out of the keg.  Once all the oxygen has been removed, set the Co2 pressure to 12 psi and put the whole setup in the kegerator/fridge.    

set regulator for carbonation

After 2-3 hours you will want to check/adjust the pressure, it may be off if you put the equipment into the kegerator/fridge at room temperature.  There are different methods used to force carbonate kegged beer, the one I use and is the easiest to perform is the fill it and wait method.  The keg will need to sit for at least 3-4 days at 38-40 degrees to get appropriate carbonation, be sure to keep the CO2 tank on.  To get exact carbonation, check out a force carbonation chart.  

kegging setup in kegerator

Serving the Beer

After 3-4 days have past with the beer carbonating it should be ready to be served.  Drop the CO2 pressure down to 5-7 psi and connect the beer lines.  To get a good pour hold the glass slightly tilted at the beginning then slowly straighten it out as the glass gets full.    

angle glass at the beginning of pour

hold glass upright at the end of the pour

Well that should cover the basics of kegging homebrewed beer, if you have any comments or questions please post them below.  O yeah and go Brew More Beer !

Homebrew Oktoberfest Lager Recipe

Traditionally brewed in Germany around the end of spring and stored in caves during the summer months to condition.  Then drank during the traditional Oktoberfest celebrations in early fall.  It is often brewed smooth, clean and malty.  An Oktoberfest (Octoberfest) Lager is often medium in body and has a darker gold to orange-red color.  Flavor is often characterized has having an initial malty sweetness and an overall dry finish.   Listed below is a 5 gallon All-Grain home brew recipe for a Oktoberfest lager.  Keep in mind you will need to ferment this lager at about 54 degrees.  This can be best achieved by using a chest/upright freezer power regulated by a temperature controller(article coming soon!).

Grains

6 lbs. German Pilsner Malt
2 lbs.  Munich Malt
2 lbs. Vienna Malt
1.25 lbs Cara-Pils/Dextrine
.5 lbs. Caramel/Crystal 120°L

Hops/Spices/Sugars and Schedule

1.25 oz. Hallertauer (Pellets, 4.80 %AA) boiled 60 min.
.5 oz. Hallertauer (Pellets, 4.80 %AA) boiled 15 min.
.5 oz. Hallertauer (Pellets, 4.80 %AA) boiled 0 min.

Yeast

Wyeast Labs Bavarian Lager Yeast(1 smack pack) or White Labs WLP820 Octoberfest
Note – I used a two day starter here with a stir plate, to get the yeast ready for the month long feast.

Mash Schedule

Strike grains at 132 degrees.
Protein Rest at 122 degrees for 30 minutes.
Saccrification at 154 degrees for 30 minutes.
Mash Out at 168 degrees for 10 minutes.
Sparge with 170 degree water.

Boil Instructions

Bring to boil and add hops per schedule.
At end of 90 minute boil cool wort quickly, when it reaches 55-60 degrees pitch yeast.

Measurements (Oktoberfest Lager)

OG – 1.050 – 1.057
FG – 1.012 – 1.016
Color(SRM) – 7-14
IBUs – 20-28
ABV –  4.8-5.7%

Ferment Instructions

Primary ferment between 53 - 56 degrees for 4 weeks, then rack to secondary for 3-4 weeks.  Caution on the fermentation, it should be held in a temperature controlled environment.  As mentioned in the description, this can be best achieved by using a chest/upright freezer power regulated by a temperature controller.

Bottling Instructions

Prime with 3/4 cup corn sugar and bottle. Condition in bottle for at least 2-3 weeks.

Kegging Instructions

Fill keg, purge oxygen and set to force carbonate at 12 psi at 40 degrees for one week. Drop CO2 regulator to 4 psi before serving.

Homebrew Belgian Dark Strong Ale Recipe

A Belgian dark strong ale is traditional brewed very rich, malty, complex and strong.  The color is often a deep amber to amber, the dark in the title simply helps distinguish this ale from its golden counterpart.  Belgian dark strong ales are typically separated into two categories, Trappist versions tending to be drier and medium in body and Abbey version usually sweeter and full in body.  This recipe has a high grain bill, one crazy primary fermentation and should yeild something around 10%.   Listed below is a 5 gallon All-Grain home brew recipe for a Belgian dark strong ale.

Grains

12 lbs. German Pilsner Malt
1 lbs. German Wheat Malt
2 lbs. Crystal 20°L
2 lbs. Crystal 60°L
.25 lbs. Belgian Special B

Hops/Spices/Sugars and Schedule

2 oz. East Kent Goldings (Pellets, 5.00 %AA) boiled 60 min.
.25 oz. Coriander Seed boiled 5 min.
2 lbs. Amber Candi Sugar boiled 5 min.
1 oz. Hallertauer (Pellets, 4.80 %AA) boiled 0 min.

Yeast

Wyeast Labs Trappist High Gravity Yeast (1 Smack pack)
Note – I used a two day starter here, to get the yeast really hungry.

Mash Schedule

Strike grains at 160 degrees.
Mash grains at 150 degrees for 75 minutes.
Sparge with 170 degree water.

Boil Instructions

Bring to boil and add hops per schedule.
At end of 60 minute boil cool wort quickly, when it reaches 80 degrees pitch yeast.

Measurements (Belgian Dark Strong Ale)

OG – 1.075 – 1.110
FG – 1.010 – 1.024
Color(SRM) – 12-22
IBUs – 20-35
ABV –  8-11%

Ferment Instructions

Primary ferment between 68 – 70 degrees for 1.5 week, then rack to secondary for 2-3 weeks.  Caution on the primary fermentation, it will be vigorous and I suggest using a blow off hose if possible.

Bottling Instructions

Prime with 3/4 cup corn sugar and bottle. Condition in bottle for at least 3-4 weeks.  Gets better with age, months.

Adding weldless fittings to a brew pot be it a boil kettle, hot liquor tank or a mash tun can make brew day much easier.  After I noticed how much the typical homebrew shop charged for a hole in a pot, I took particular interest in doing it on my own.   Here is a basic guide to drilling a hole in a brew pot.

Gather Necessary Equipment

1. Hole punch
2. Drill (corded perferred)
3.  Small sized metal drill bit (3/16 inch)
4.  Step bits (harbor freight has the best deal on them)
5. Metal file

hole punch and step bit

Measure and Punch

First measure out where you want to put the hole, you can use the pot handles for reference if need be.  Once you find the location use a hole punch and a hammer to dent the pot to keep the drill bit from slipping.

line up hole punch and hit with hammer

hole punched and ready for drilling

Drilling the Pilot hole

Drill the pilot hole with a small sized metal drill bit.  This is used as a guide for the larger step bit, without it things could get dangerous.

drill pilot hole

Drilling the Hole

Using the step bit, drill the  hole to the appropriate size to fit the weldless fittings.  Drill slowly step by step and do not apply excessive force.

drill hole in pot for weldless fitting

Smoothing Things Out and Assemble

Use a metal file to smooth down the inside of the hole and remove any hanging burrs.

file off metal burrs

Assemble the weldless fitting and test for leaks.

attach fittings

hot liquor tank with both a ball valve and sight glass

Calculating the percent alcohol in a homebrew beer is pretty easy and it requires two important measurements.  A beers alcohol level is measured in Alcohol by Volume (ABV), it is the calculated amount of the total volume of liquid that is alcohol.  The density of a liquid is often measured in unit of specific gravity, where water has an approximate density of 1.00 g/mL or a specific gravity of 1.000 at 60F.  The specific gravity of a liquid is a comparison of its density vs the density of water. 

Gravity Readings

During the fermenting process, yeast is added and the yeast eat the sugars in the wort(sugar water) producing alcohol and CO2.  After fermentation, since alcohol is less dense then wort (sugar water) there will be a change in the specific gravity of the liquid.  ABV is calculated by taking a specific gravity reading of the wort, beer before fermentation, and beer after the fermentation.  The two measurements are referred to as the Original Gravity(wort) and Final Gravity(beer post fermentation).  

Measuring Specific Gravity

Measuring the specific gravity is often either done by a hydrometer or a refractometer.   All measurements should be done at what the hydrometer or refractometer is calibrated to, usually 60 °F.  

graduated cylinder with hydrometer

To measure the specific gravity using a hydrometer fill the cylinder until about 2-3 remain of head space, drop in the hydrometer slowly and spin it.  When reading the hydrometer make sure it is not clinging to the side of the cylinder, it should be completely floating.   

fill cylinder with 2-3 inch head space

read specific gravity on hydrometer

Using a refractometer is much easier and requires only a drop of liquid.  A refractometer measures the density of a liquid in units of brix, amount of sugars present in a liquid.  There is a coversion equation below to go from brix to specific gravity.

refractometer

Equations to Determine ABV

Here is a basic equation that can be used to determine ABV of a beer.  Two contants are used.  

1.05 g — represents the amount of CO2 produced for every gram of ethanol produced
0.79 g/mL  – represents the density of ethanol alcohol, drop the g/mL to get the specific gravity.  

 (  ( 1.05  x  ( OG – FG )  )  / FG  )  / 0.79  x  100 = % ABV  

*For temperature correction use the following  ~50 °F subtract .001  /~ 70 ° F add .001 / ~ 80 ° F add .002 

For example, lets say you are brewing up a dry irsh stout and your OG=1.052 with your FG=1.014.  

 (  ( 1.05  x  ( 1.052 - 1.014 )  )  / 1.014  )  / 0.79  x  100 = 4.98% ABV  

Here is an equation that can be used to convert units of brix to units of specific gravity.  This is an estimate equation, refer to the USDA Brix Measurements doc for the extact conversion numbers. 

Specific Gravity = 1 +(0.004 x °Brix)

While calculating the overall water necessary to conduct a  full mash , batch sparge  and boil it is important to note how much water will be lost in the spent grains.  I use the basic equations below when calculating the amount of water necessary when brewing an all grain beer. 

Amount of Water for Mash = (Pounds of Grain) x 1.25 quarts/pound (divide by 4 to get gallons)

Amount of Water to Batch Sparge with = (Final Boil Volume) + (Shrinkage/Evaporation) + (Equipment Losses) + (Spent Grains) – (Amount of Water for Mash) 

From what I have experienced on my brewing rig spent grains absorb about 20% of there own weight in gallons, here is a chart that can be used for reference.  This estimate is based on my single infusion mash with batch sparge  in a 60 quart cooler with a grain crush around .039.  

Total Grain Weight in Pounds x .20 = Approximate Gallons of Water Absorbed by the Grains

mashing in a cooler

Using a stir plate can help a yeast starter grow faster and healthier quicker.  Brewing 10 gallons batches can get expensive so I have looked at all kinds of different ways to cut down on ingredients cost.  Using a stir plate along with a yeast starter allows you to purchase one packet of yeast for a standard 10 gallon ale recipes or high gravity brews or even lagers. 

Everything in this do it yourself can be purchased at RadioShack or taken from old electronics around the house.  This is a great project to show your wife that the old PC in your closet, shes been trying to throw away for years, was there for a reason.  The stir plate I built was taken from a bunch of different source online so I am not really sure who to credit, regardless here is a stir plate that can be used for brewing that is very cheap, easy to build, quiet and will save you money.

Gather Necessary Equipment

1. Project enclosure box($7 at RS)
2.  4 inch 12 volt DC PC fan (pull out of old PC or buy one online)
3. Rare Earth Magnets (pull off of old hard drive from old PC or buy at RS)
4. Power Supply 12V to 6V DC (old cell phone charger/keyboard/Nintendo or buy one at RS)
5.  Power Switch ($3 at RS)
6. Rheostat/potentiometer 25 Ohm, 3 Watt ($3 at RS)
7. Washer/Screws/Bolts ($2 at Lowes)
8. Strong Glue or Epoxy
9.  Rubber Feet (pull off of old PC or buy at RS)
10. Stir bar, 1-2 inch (order online $6-$8)

Listed below is the equipment I used to build the stir plate.

project enclosure box for stir plate

pc ban used to build stir plate

hard drive magnets for stir plate

power adapter used for stir plate

power switch for stir plate

potentiometer for stir plate

nuts and bolts for stir plate

Attaching the Magnets

Use a large washer when attaching the magnets to the fan.  This gives the magnets something to hold on it and prevents too much interference on the fan motor.  I used both rare earth magnets out of one hard drive, one magnet was not enough.  If using two magnets stack them on top of each other, I could not get it to work with them separated.  To remove the magnets from the hard drive mount plate, simply wedge a flat head between them and tap it with a hammer.  Center the washer on the fan and use gorilla glue or epoxy to attach it.  I did not glue my magnets down, but it wouldn’t hurt to do so.

mount magnet on fan with washer

Testing the Fan with Magnets

Rather then just jumping in and soldering, I figured it would be a good idea to simply cable it all up and test it out.  To do this I used temporary wires with alligator clips to connect the power supply, power switch, potentiometer and fan.  Make sure the power supply is ALWAYS disconnected while working on the circuit, electronics can be very dangerous so be careful.    Remove the connector on the end of the fan and power supply then strip the wires.  The positive line out of the power supply should go directly to the supply contact on the switch, different switches have different contact layout.  The ground wire form the power supply should go to the fans ground wire, which is usually black.  Next connect the load contact on the  power switch to the center pin of the potentiometer.  Lastly connect the positive line out of the fan to the right most pin on the potentiometer.  Here is a wire diagram of how the circuit should be connected.

initial testing of stir plate

While testing make sure that the fan is supported by a clamp or something.  Do not hold the container with the stir bar above the fan, this will not work.  The container will need to sit on on the clamp, approximately 1/2 inch from the magnet.  Also make sure you are using a jar/flask/container with a flat bottom, if it is concave/convex it will not work.

Mounting the Fan with Magnets

Alright so the fan/magnets work and the stir bar spins, now lets package everything up so that it looks nice.  First you need to mount the fan to the top of the enclosure box.  To do this clamp the fan to the top of the enclosure and marked the holes to the exact location and drill bit size.

drilling holes to mount fan

Mount the fan using 10-32 x 2 screws and bolts.

mount fan assembly on enclosure top

Wiring up the Switches

Drill a small hold in the back of the enclosure box and run the power supply cable through it.  Pull it with enough slack to work with then tie it off, so that it cannot be pulled out.  Drill holes in the front of the enclosure to seat the power switch and potentiometer.  Soldered the positive line from the power supply to the power switch. 

solder power for a stir plate

 Next solder the middle pin of the potentiometer to the load contact on the power switch, I used the white wire here.

solder power and potentiometer for stir plate

Wiring up the Fan

The fan has two wires, positive(usually red) and ground(usually black).   Solder the positive line out from the fan to the right most pin on the potentiometer.  Then attach the ground wire out of the fan to the ground wire from the power supply using a standard wire connector.

complete stir plate wiring

Mount Feet

Attach the new enclosure top with the fan to the enclosure box using the provided screws.  Flip the enclosure over and attach rubber feet, they will really help with vibration.

stir plate with added rubber feet

Flip the enclosure back over, plug it in and place the flask with the stir bar in the center, the magnets should line up.  Place the potentiometer on the lowest setting and power it on.  Gradually increase the speed to create more stir.

final testing of the stir plate

Here is a video of it in action.

That’s it, go brew more beer!  If you have any comments or questions please post them below.

Homebrew Cherry Ale Recipe

A fruit beer is best described by a comment made in the BJCP guidelines, a harmonious marriage of fruit and beer.  Typically thought of as a style on its own, a fruit beer should have a base style for example a blonde ale or wheat ale, with added fruit.  Aroma and overall flavor of a fruit beer should be dominated by the type of fruit being used.  The overall appearance and mouthfeel should be very similar to the base beer style selected.  Listed below is a 5 gallon All-Grain home brew recipe for a cherry ale based off of a blonde ale.

Grains

6 lbs. American 2-row
3 lbs. Malted White Wheat
1 lbs. Honey Malt 20°L
1.5 lbs. Crystal Malt 20°L
1 lbs. Rice Flaked

Hops and Schedule

1 oz. Hallertau (Pellets, 4.50 %AA) boiled 60 min.
0.5 oz. Hallertau (Pellets, 4.50 %AA) boiled 15 min.

Yeast

German Ale Yeast – Safale K-97

Mash Schedule

Strike grains at 165 degrees.
Mash grains at 152 degrees for 60 minutes.
Sparge with 170 degree water.

Boil Instructions

Bring to boil and add hops per schedule.
At end of 60 minute boil cool wort quickly, when it reaches 80 degrees pitch yeast.

Measurements (Fruit Ale)

Since the cherry ale falls into the Fruit Beer category it has no specific style guidelines for OG,FG,SRM or IBU, it is recommended to use the style guidelines of the base style you have selected for your fruit beer.  Here are the measurements for a typical blonde ale recipe.

OG – 1.038 – 1.054
FG – 1.008 – 1.013
Color(SRM) – 3-6
IBUs – 15-28
ABV 3.8-5.5%

Ferment Instructions

Primary ferment between 63 – 70 degrees for 1 week.  Add cherries to secondary fermenter and rack beer to it for 2 weeks.  For this recipe I purchased 5 lbs of fresh Bing Cherries.  Pull the stems off and crush the the cherries.  Then cook them for about 20 minutes at about 160 degrees.  Let them cool down and add to the secondary.

crushing fresh bing cherries with plup

cooking cherries for cherry ale

adding cherries to secondary fermenter

racking blonde ale base over crushed and cooked cherries

Bottling Instructions

Prime with 3/4 cup corn sugar and bottle. Condition in bottle for at least two weeks.

Kegging Instructions

Fill keg, purge oxygen and set to force carbonate at 12 psi at 38 degrees for one week. Drop CO2 regulator to 4 psi before serving.

Having a brew tower or brewing structure is really helpful in keeping your brew day consistent, organized and safe.  Unlike the usual step by step instructions on other projects on BrewMoreBeer, I will just explain what went into Black Betty and hopefully that will be enough to inspire you to build something similar.  Like Brutus, Wallace and others before her, a named brew tower is a great way to define a structure for easy reference, so we deemed our structure Black Betty.   

Black Betty the Brewing Tower

The brew tower project as a whole cost about $140 in materials and a few nights to put together.  Which is not too bad for a full blown gravity fed all grain brewing tower.   To put things in perspective just a pump alone usually cost around $140.   Black Betty’s components are positioned so that no pumps are necessary, the tower uses gravity to move the beer from one stage to the next.  

Materials List with Cost

The Components

The left most component in the upper tier is a hot liquor tank burner which is mounted and framed with 2×4 for support and stability.   

brew tower top tier

To the right of the burner is a heat shroud that was built to protect the mash tun (plastic cooler) from becoming too hot or even melting.  The left side of the heat shroud has a piece of sheet metal to deflect the heat coming off the burner, the right side (facing cooler) has a piece of particle board to act as an insulator.   

brew tower heat shroud

To the far right on the upper tier sits the cooler mash tun.   

brew tower mash tun to boil kettle

The lower tier can be thought of in two pieces, the boil area and cool down area.  The left side, boil area, is a burner with stand that has been mounted and framed with 2×4 for support and stability.   

brew tower lower tier boil area

The right side, cool down area, is where the carboys sit and wait to be filled with wort.  There is a plate chiller positioned in the middle of the lower tier.  This design allows the wort to flow out of the boil pot through the chiller and down to the carboys.

beer tower lower tier

Other Features

A water filter mount was created to hold our water filter for brewing.  This helps to stablize the filter from falling over and keeps it mounted so that it can fill the hot liquor tank easily. 

beer tower water filter mount

The entire tower is coated in a black grill paint which should have a heat tolerance up to 1200 degrees F.
 
The tower has wheels that lock on both the upper and lower tiers which allow for mobility and easy storage. 

beer tower wheels

The upper tier has a shelf for propane tanks, this allows for easy access to the them.  

gravity fed all grain brewing tower

black betty on brew day

Thats about it, if you have any questions or comments about Black Betty or beer towers in general just comment below.

What is the difference between the two darkest beer styles?   Just by looking at them it is practically impossible to tell them apart.

Porter? Stout? Who came first?…

The history between the two names begins in the 18th century in England with the term Porter, a name that was given to dark brown beers by the local street workers(porters).  Another term also used around the same time period to distinguish the darker and stronger porters was stout.   As the years past and roasted barley broke onto the scene the stout/porter relationship began to separate.  Stouts began to take on their own style with the help of Arthur Guinness, continuing to use more roasted barley then dark malts.

Porter

Porters are basically described to be dark in color, have medium body and have a good balance of malty sweetness to hop bitterness.  Porters have three unique sub-styles; a brown porter, robust porter and a Baltic porter.  Porters are usually known for using crystal, black, and dark malts.  They generally are medium to high in hop bitterness.  Baltic porters are brewed imperial and are usually around 8% ABV, they are malty up front with characters of dark fruit, raisins, toffee coming through.  Check out the latest BJCP guidelines to grab more specific details on the different porter sub-styles.

Stout

Stouts are basically described to have a roasted barley character, to be dark in color and have medium to low hop bitterness.  Stouts come in six unique sub-styles; a dry stout, sweet/cream stout, oatmeal stout, foreign stout, American stout and imperial stout.  The most common being the dry Irish stout ( recipe), which was made famous by Guinness and is from Ireland.  Generally most stouts are brewed using  a pale malt to make up about 80-90% of the grist and a roasted barley to make up about 10% of the grist.  This roasted barley usually attributes to a coffee like taste.  There bitterness forms with the hop additions made mostly at the start of the boil.  Most stouts are full in body and flavor making them a great winter beer.  Check out the latest BJCP guidelines to grab more specific details on the different stout sub-styles.

a dry Irish stout beside a German hefe

Conclusions

Stout – Generally dark and full in body with a roasted barley taste.

Porter – Generally dark and medium in body with a good balance of malty sweetness to hop bitterness.

Having said that, the bad news is that both styles have examples of using characteristics of the others.  There are full bodied porters and medium bodied stouts out there.  Cross over between the two styles exist especially by the micro brewers of today.  Regardless these two dark beer styles do have distinct characteristics and I hope I helped alleviate any confusion you may have had.  Here is a direct comparison between two of the most popular dark beer styles.

Interested in comparing beer styles? Check out our article Wheat Beer Styles: Weiss vs Wit.  Feel free to comment on any thoughts regarding dark beer styles below.