"Bike Touring" via BikeBlogCollection in Google Reader

Spring trip to The Swell--Day 1

2012-05-18T13:37:00Z

Somehow, one of Utah's greatest geological oddities and most scenic areas--the San Rafael Swell--has managed to escape becoming part of the U.S. National and Utah State Parks systems. While its beauty and recreational opportunities rival those of nearby National Parks, you don't have to deal with the over-regulation that plagues the popular parks. High admission fees? How about no entry fees whatsoever. Camping fees? Nope, just find one of countless previously used campsites throughout the Swell and you're good. Standing in line at 6 am to get a limited hiking permit? No hoops to jump through here.

I was joined by my Dad, brothers Matt and Eros, Eros's son Aaron, and nephew Hector for my latest excursion into the Swell. Our short 3-day trip was centered around a 15-mile hike through The Chute of Muddy Creek. There was also one mountain bike ride, with most of the remaining time devoted to rock art.

Realizing that I'd beat the rest of my family (coming from the Salt Lake City area) to the predetermined meeting spot at Castle Dale, I figured I had just enough time to stop and photograph the Rochester panel east of Emery.

There's lots to take in at the Rochester panel.

Some common elements we noticed in San Rafael area rock art are snakes, winged figures, and figures with wide-set E.T.-like eyes.

Even though everyone on the trip are not bikers, I convinced everyone to bring whatever bike they could find so they didn't miss the opportunity to ride one of Utah's newest and most scenic singletracks--the Good Water Rim. The trail starts near The Wedge overlook and follows the rim along the "Little Grand Canyon" gorge of the San Rafael River before continuing on along the rim of Good Water.

Man, I'm loosing my nerve in my old age. Here, I'm completely freaking out about a foot from the rim. I used to be able to tight rope cliffs like this without blinking. Don't worry, the real trail never gets this close to the edge, it's just me being stupid. Matt Photo.

The San Rafael's Little Grand Canyon.

Eros goofing around at the Little Grand Canyon overlook.

Aaron and Eros cruise along the Good Water Rim. Despite all of the Navajo Sandstone exposed in the canyon walls, don't expect Moab-like smooth slickrock. A thin layer of Carmel limestone capping the Navajo makes the trail surface fairly choppy.

Looking down Good Water Canyon.

Hector got this sweet sequence shot with his fancy new camera. I'm well overdue for a camera upgrade myself.

After the bike ride, we hit several points of interest down the Buckhorn Wash Road as we made our way toward our camp at Tomsich Butte.

I purposely left out the details when I mentioned to everyone prior to the trip that we'd be visiting the Morrison-Knudsen tunnels. You see, my brother Matt Knudsen married a Morrison, and I knew everybody would be scratching their heads as to what I could possibly be talking about out here in the middle of nowhere. There's not as much to see these days now that they have sealed off the tunnels. Still a bit of interesting history though (try and read the print in this photo of an information kiosk in Buckhorn Draw). Rumor has it that if the Navajo Sandstone would have passed the "explosives test," NORAD and other military facilities very well could have ended up here in the San Rafael Swell instead of deep within a granite mountain in Colorado.

Known as the "cattle guard" rock art site, these petroglyphs are rather unusual because they are not pecked into a dark desert varnish like most other carvings I've seen in the southwest. The lack of contrast makes them a little hard to see and even harder to photograph.

This single huge dinosaur track in the Navajo Sandstone can be found a few feet off of the the Buckhorn Wash Road.

Outlaw-turned-Peace Officer Matt Warner first met then-19-year-old Butch Cassidy in Telluride Colorado in 1885. Together they raced horses with some rustling on the side until successfully robbing a Telluride bank in 1889. They later went their separate ways with Butch eventually forming the Wild Bunch Gang. After a string of robberies and nearly 4 years in prison, Warner gave up the outlaw life. By the time he crawled up this ledge in Buckhorn Draw to write his name in 1920, he had been elected Justice of the Peace in nearby Price. Warner died in 1938.

Although heavily vandalized in the past, the Buckhorn Draw pictographs are still an amazing sight. The Barrier Canyon style of art seen here is at least 2,000 years old.

One interpretation of the bizarre Buckhorn panel is that the scene depicts Shamans transforming into supernatural or animal-like beings.

Buckhorn Wash pictographs.

Buckhorn Wash.

The red angels of Buckhorn Wash.

Despite being in hurry to get to our campsite at Tomsich Butte in the southern part of the Swell, I insisted we make the short detour to view the exquisite Head of Sinbad pictographs.

More Barrier Canyon style art at Head of Sinbad.

Although several thousand years old, the Head of Sinbad pictographs are extremely well preserved and have yet to be vandalized.

Look into the hollow eyes of this ancient E.T. and you may be caught in a hypnotic trance.

We arrived at Tomsich just before sundown, through up our tents, had dinner, and fell asleep anxiously awaiting our big hike in the morning through "The Chute."

Camp along Muddy Creek in the shadows of Tomsich Butte.

Salomon S-Wind Ecuador 98

2012-05-16T18:52:11Z

The Raid Gauloises or The Raid is considered by many to be the first modern adventure race and was first held in 1989. Its creator, Gerald Fusil, took the existing concept of long distance endurance races, and focused on the team aspects, requiring each competitor to be part of a five person co-ed team.

The Raid had no set course, with competitors being required to rely on their wits and judgment to reach the specified checkpoints. The Raid was named after its original sponsor, the Gauloises Cigarette Company. 2003 was the last year for the Raid Gauloises. In 2004 the Raid Gauloises was retooled into the Raid World Championship.*

The Raid world championship is a long distance non-stop race lasting between 5 to 7 days and nights. The distance covered is often in excess of 200km The teams in which not all members complete the part of the race in cut off time are eliminated.

Race features various disciplines depending on the terrain present in the given course, the course changes each year, but kayaking, mountain biking, sea kayaking, hydro speed, inline skating, cross orienteering, mountain climbing, caving, snow shoeing and skiing are the most popular disciplines encountered.

*Above three paragraphs and below pictures acquired from Wikipedia and www.salomonrunning.com

Salomon which is one of the first company that have started creating collections for adventure racing and trail running gear created the special adventure racng shoe for this event called Salomon Raid Wind. This shoe worked perfectly on tough conditions like mud, rain, dirt, sand and became an epic shoe.

The Salomon Raid Wind became the premier adventure racing shoe, and started a movement in more athletic-minded expedition racing gear for the masses. The Raid Wind and the great victory of Team Salomon-Presidio had a huge impact on Salomon as a brand in terms of product development.

Now they are launching this epic show within a new segment where Salomon called it as Mountain Life Category. They have plenty of different types with casual, hiking, womens and mens versions.

The shoe has a spcial design on it showing the same yellow color and ecuador version of the race`s image.

One of the great shoes store Zappos had an early video review of the shoe where you can find below. I will try to buy this shoe in my next visit abroad, try and write a detailed review with extensive pictures.

Other Salomon Product Reviews

Something As Simple As A Bicycle

2012-05-16T11:37:00Z

The bicycle is the noblest invention of mankind. ~ William Saroyan

My friend Rob Coalson gave me a wonderful 50th birthday present. Yes, I just turned 51, but only recently have the fruits of Rob's gift come to ripen.

Rob donated a very generous amount of money in my name last year to the 88bikes Foundation, the goal of which, as its website says, is to "provide a sustainable, joyful, empowering form of transportation to young people in developing countries, in situations where these children have been challenged to be their own heroes due to war, conflict, poverty, disease, or other regional hardships."

Basically, 88bikes gives bikes to kids who don't have bikes, in places where something as simple as a bicycle can make a huge impact on the quality of their lives.

The organization was founded by Dan Austin, a writer and filmmaker from Seattle; Dr. Jared Austin, a pediatric hospitalist and assistant professor at the Oregon Health and Science University in Portland; and Nick Arauz, a designer and social media entrepreneur from Brooklyn.

I had forgotten about Rob's donation until a few weeks ago, when I was surprised and thrilled to find on my desk at work five certificates featuring photographs of the five children who had each received a bike in my name, thanks to Rob's generosity. The kids live in Mozambique and Nepal.

What's amazing about the certificates is that they show not only the children posing with their new bikes but holding a photograph of Emma and me, taken on a bike ride a few years ago and posted on this blog.

I have to admit, it's quite something to see a child in Mozambique or Nepal holding your photograph. (See above and below.)

Thank you again, Rob, for such an amazing gift.

I urge everyone to check out 88bikes and make whatever donation they can afford.

Haftasonu Paris

2012-05-14T22:02:55Z

Haftasonu Paris seyahati icin alternatif müzeler, yeme içme, farklı keşiflere ne dersiniz ? Havalar ısındı, Paris’e gitmenin tam vakti. Lüksemburg bahçeleri ve Odeon en sevdigim yerler, otelimizi burada seçiyoruz. Herkes sere serpe çimlere uzanmış, Lüksemburg bahçelerinde dolaşıp, ara sokaklardaki eski kitapçıları keşfediyoruz.

Yazımızı bütün kitapları, Internet sitelerini tarayıp, bana Paris Ultramaratonu yorgunluğunu unutturan eşim Sedef Tok hazırladı.

Öğle yemeği için Les Papilles‘de iki kişilik yer buluyoruz. Şefin mönüsü haricinde a la carte yemek mümkün, şarap çeşitleri inanılmaz, akşam yemeği için rezervasyon şart.

Yemekten sonra St. Germain’de yürüyüş… Dedim ya burası en sevdiğim yerler. Öğle yemeği henüz bitmiş olmasına rağmen akşam nereye gitsek diye düşünüyoruz. Paris’e gelip Italyan yemeği yenir mi ? Yenir ! Bal gibi yenir.

Restoranımız Sardegna a Tavola, Bastille, Nation’a yakın ve Sardunya adasının yemeklerini yapıyor.

Şansa iki kişilik yer buluyoruz artık gezmeğe devam edebiliriz. Marais‘de kahve molası vermenin tam vakti. Marais her ne kadar turistlerin hücumuna uğrasa da burayı seviyorum.

Belki hafta içi gelmek, mesela cuma gündüz bile turist akını nispeten daha az. Marais’in Yahudi bölümü her zaman için daha cazip. Ara sokaklarda gezip bir kafeye oturuyoruz.

Kahvelerimiz bittikten sonra otelimize dönüyoruz. Akşam için hazırlanıcaz. Bu şehirde taksi bulmak problem olabiliyor onun için gündüz gezerken metroyu kullanıyoruz. Herkese tavsiye ederim, metro sistemi çok kolay, ucuz ve pratik.

Akşam yemeği için Bastille ya da Nation metrosu Sardegna a tavola isimli restorana yakın fakat biz taksiye biniyoruz.

Yemeklerimiz müthiş. Portakallı, limonlu ve bademli Ravioli baslangıç olmak üzere Sardunya adasının değişik lezzetlerini tadıyoruz. Burası turistlerin bilmediği yerli halkın geldigi bir restoran ve rezervasyon şart. Yemekten sonra otelimize dönüyoruz.

Ertesi sabah kahvaltımız bittikten sonra Musee de l’Orangerie’de sergileri gezmek üzere Tuileries bahçelerine gidiyoruz.
Claude Monet’in Waterlilies’i bu müzede görülebilir. Sabah erken gitmenin avantajı uzun kuyrukları önlemek.

Gezi bittikten sonra listemde bulunan Musee Nissim de Camondo ve Musee Jacquemart Andre’ye gidiyoruz. Öğle yemegi vakti geçtigi için, Le Bon Marche‘de bir şeyler atıştırıyoruz.

Bugün çok yorucu geçti. O müze senin öteki benim epeyce gezdik. Akşam için otele dönüp yemeğe kadar dinleniyoruz. Akşam yemeği için Bistrot Paul Berth seçimimiz. Çok önceden rezervasyon yapmak gerekiyor, yoksa bulmak mümkün değil, burayı şiddetle tavsiye ederim.

Yemekten sonra otele dönüyoruz. Sabah güneşli bir güne uyanıyoruz.

Kahvaltı için St. Germain‘de bulunan Café de Flore‘ ye gidiyoruz. Sokak üzerinde iki kişilik bir masayı mucize eseri bulup oturuyoruz. Kahvelerimizi yudumlarken geleni gideni ve etrafı seyretmenin keyfine varıyoruz.

Kahvaltıdan sonra uzun bir yürüyüş ve tekrar Marais bölgesine gidiyoruz. Marais’de dükkanların bir çoğu pazar günleri de açık. Marais’de gezdikten sonra Ile Saint Louis‘de bulunan Berthillon dondurmacısına gidiyoruz.

Pazar akşam trenle Londra’ya dönüyoruz. Önermek istedigim bir, iki restoran daha var. Bunlar, Chez l’ami Jean ve Spring. Yolculuk öncesi bu restoranların internet sitelerine girip detaylı bilgi alabilirsiniz. En önemlisi hem restoran hem de ulaşım rezervasyon işini son dakikaya bırakmamak.

Paris’e uygun uçak bileti bulmak için, uçak bileti sorgulama sitelerine bakınız. Başta THY Uçak Bileti olmak üzere bir çok havayolu için en uygun bileti bulabilirsiniz

Kodachrome Basin State Park

2012-05-10T20:26:00Z

In the shadows of Bryce Canyon National Park lies a little-known Utah State Park that makes a convenient base camp for exploring Bryce and the upper Paria portion of the Grand Staircase National Monument. Kodachrome Basin offers unique red-rock scenery, famous for its intriguing "sand pipes," and it has among the best and cleanest amenities in a state park I've seen. The park has a number of short and interesting hikes, but more adventurous families will certainly want to venture outside the park to a number of nearby must-see attractions. For younger kids, the Upper Cottonwood Wash Narrows, Willis Creek, and Grosvenor Arch are an easy drive away. Serious hikers will want to hit Round Valley Draw and Bull Valley Gorge. Fishing at either Pine Lake or Tropic Reservoir will provide some relaxing down time between hikes. History buffs will want to visit the Widtsoe ghost town and cemetery, the Georgetown cemetery, and the Elijah Averret grave site in Averret Canyon.

Here are a few highlights of our trips to Kodachrome over the years:

View of Kodachrome State Park's campground from the Angel's Palace Trail. Flush toilets, hot showers, and very very clean.

View to the west from Angel's Palace Trail. A number of sand pipe monoliths are visible in the mid-distance.

One of the larger sand pipes along the Grand Parade Trail. Rather unusual for a Utah State Park, there are two trails within Kodachrome Basin that are open to mountain bikes (the other being the Panorama Trail).

Coasting by the Ballerina sand pipe on the Panorama Trail. Many theories exist to explain Kodachrome's sand pipes. Personally, I like the idea of them being petrified liquefaction features. Imagine a large magnitude earthquake rocking layered sand deposits near the shore of a Jurassic age sea (~150 million years ago). The intense ground motion thrusts saturated sand (white) up through drier, more dense sand above (red), finally reaching the surface to create a "sand volcano." Although the volcanoes at the surface are now long gone, the inner plumbing of the volcanoes have since turned to stone and are what form the pipes seen today.

The biking at Kodachrome Basin is far from epic, but challenging sand traps and fantastic scenery keep things interesting.

The "Cool Cave" found along the Big Bear portion of the ever-expanding Panorama Trail. It is legal to ride through this short slot, which makes for some interesting photos.

Cool Cave.

Chukars are common at Kodachrome. Try the short paved Nature Trail at dusk for a good chance to see them. This guy let us walk right up to him.

Mighty Grosvenor Arch -- a short drive from Kodachrome Basin.

The Upper Cottonwood Wash Narrows are a favorite with kids.

The full Bull Valley Gorge/Willis Creek loop is a must for experienced hikers looking for adventure. The first few miles of Willis Creek down from the Skutumpah Road is the ticket if kids are in tow.

Willis Creek narrows.

The fam in Willis Creek.

A clear, cool stream almost always flows in Willis Creek, raising the fun factor a couple of notches.

A description for the colorful "Cannonville slots" can be found in Michael Kelsey's guidebook for the Paria River. While there are a few photogenic spots in the area, your time is probably best spent elsewhere. Access update to Kelsey's book: Bob Ott and his wife no longer run the cabins & concessionaire at Kodachrome S.P., you must call them for permission to access the slots (435.679.8787). Very nice folks.

Playing around in the Cannonville slots.

As you hike between the two main slots at Cannonville, keep an eye out for this nifty toadstool. It wont be around much longer!

Amstel Gold Sportif: Getting Really Damp in the Limburger Alps

2012-05-10T20:57:00Z

As one of the very few (12,000?) successful lottery winners allowed to participate in the sportif version of the Amstel Gold race, I was of two minds about the event. Thrilled to be included in the most recent Classic race, established only in 1966, and given the chance to ride a part of the course of the Netherlands’ most importance cycling event, I was also concerned about the very narrow roads and the climbs, particularly so early in the season. My training efforts had come to naught in Spring, with only 300 kms or so on the road, but I figured that I had all day to finish the 150 kms of the Amstel Gold sportif.

So, this is what a Qashqai is! They changed the name for Australia since they were worried the Aussies would nickname it "Cash Cow"

Leaving on Friday the 13th afternoon in April, I went to Sixt to get my wheels for the weekend. The car rental people had wanted to give me an automatic but couldn’t find one but they said they would make it up by letting me have a better class of car than the VW Golf I had requested. Since I thought it would be good to have some space, I ended up with a little Nissan diesel SUV which was built in England and rejoices in the model name of Qashqai, which is not as hard to pronounce as it looks. The name apparently derives from a Turkish nomadic tribe. The car had 800 km on it so I was determined to be as careful and not repeat the scraping-on-the-narrow-wall incident ($$$) from my last rental adventure. My bike and baggage fitted in with plenty of space and away we rolled.

First stop was Aachen where I collected the Thin Man, who had taken the train from Berlin. I was looking for him in front of the station and expecting to see his bike, but I had forgotten all about it being equipped with S&S couplers to make it transportable, so he walked up to me just with two pieces of luggage and we were quickly on the road again.

We were staying in a holiday resort place in Mechelen which actually looked to me like a suburban townhouse development in many places in North America. We had a three-storey unit which was rather narrow as when we sat in the kitchen on the ground floor we had to put the bikes outside, as we discovered when the Thin Man built up his bicycle. It is an interesting operation to watch and I am always impressed that the bicycle goes back together. Travelling with bikes is always awkward at best but I would not trust my ability to reassemble something as complex as it appears. The Thin Man told me later that during the ride one of the couplers had started to loosen up so I guess it is a good idea to carry the special wrench all the time.

Next on the plan was to drive to Valkenburg, which the GPS said was 13 kms away to pick up our start packages. This was where our event would start and finish on Saturday. We jumped into the Qashqai (Nissan markets the car under a different name in Australia as they were worried that the Aussies would call it “Cash cow”) and the nav system told us it was only about 14 kms but that it would take more than 30 minutes to get there. I soon realized why as I gained experience on Dutch roads, which are designed to terrify foreigners driving strangely-named big fat SUVs, which would be mini-SUVs anywhere else. The roads are basically a very wide single lane, with bike lanes marked on either side. You drive happily in the middle until you see another car coming, in which case you pull over to the right and drive partly on the bike lane. If there is a cyclist there–and the Netherlands does not lack for them–you just slow down and wait. This required some extra caution but it also meant that our speed was about the same as it would have been going by bike.

We passed an interesting castle or two and then finally arrived in Valkenburg. Our first attempt at parking actually put us on the far side of town so we figured out more precisely where we needed to be and drove down the even more narrow streets of the old town, weaving gently between masses of racing cyclists. If Amstel Gold does indeed allow 12,000 riders for its tourist event, they were all coming to register with us.

We found a good parking lot after moving through the masses and made our way to the sports centre where the registration was taking place. There were lots of banners for Amstel Gold beer and piles of empty cans and a full bar. The Specialized bike people were in evidence and had several of their top bikes, including a Tarmac SL4 belonging to Aleksandre Vinoukourov of Team Astana, a McLaren Venge (MSRP is, I think, US$ 15,000) at the top of the stand, along with a Shiv time trial bike from Team Saxo Bank.

There were lots and lots of people but the ladies manning the registration area were wonderfully organized and in only a few moments we had our registration kits, which included a number for the handlebars which included an RFID chip, a larger number for our backs, various fasteners, route cue sheets, maps and instructions discouraging us from “wildplassen,” or urinating in public places.

On the way out we were met by two lovely tall Dutch ladies with beer coaster dresses and hats representing Amstel Gold beer. I had my picture taken with them and we were provided with two cans of Amstel’s latest brew. It is called “O.O” because it has, well, no alcohol.

Back into the Qashqai and down the road we went in search of food. Cyclists need to stock up on lots of eats and many of those 12,000 expected cyclists had shown up at about the only food store we saw enroute, a Spar located close to the Brand brewery, since all the bananas except for three sorry-looking ones were left. We did get some wonderful cheese, the makings of a basic pasta dinner, milk, cereal and some other healthy things, along with some very unhealthy ones, such as the famous “stroopwaffels,” the unavoidable and irresistable Lowlands cookies which must have a great deal of honey in them. I saw that potato chips were 2 Euros for a big bag so we bought two of them only to have the nice lady at the cash tell us that they were actually three big bags for 2 Euros, so we grabbed another one.

We got back to Mechelen without further incident and got our housekeeping organized. Soon we were joined by our third rider, Thomas, who came in from Krefeld. After loading up on dinner and enjoying some of the Maisels Weisse beer I had brought, we had a long discussion about how we would get to the start on Saturday. Thomas, who was going back to Krefeld directly after the ride, said that he would drive his car over. The Thin Man was leaning towards riding the 11 or 12 kms to the start and I was debating it myself but finally thought that if the weather was going to continue to be so cold that extra distance so early on would be quite unpleasant. In the end it was decided to go with both cars and find a reasonably close parking space instead of fighting our way through traffic to the start line.

the Thin Man and Thomas, ready to roll!

A too short night’s sleep and we were up at 5:30 to eat breakfast and get our gear packed. It was bitterly cold and as we drove to the start I felt that we had made the wise decision to go by car. We found a huge parking lot just on the outskirts of Valkenburg that I had noticed the day before and there was plenty of space. The challenge lay in getting enough coins together to buy a parking ticket for the entire day but thanks to some helpful Dutch riders who could explain the system it was pretty easy. On the bikes and we rode through the old town about 2 kms to the start line, passing the registration place and then joining a huge throng going through the inflated arches marking the start. There were photographers all over the place, as well as automated video systems, as we were to learn, along the entire course. We passed over a timing mat, smiled for the photographers and were on our way at last: the long-awaited Amstel Gold sportif!

The Thin Man, an enthusiastic racer and a good climber, was off to a fast start and rode at his own tempo up the first hill, about 3 kms into the ride, and that was the last we saw of him. I tried to keep Thomas in sight but with the masses of riders around it was not so easy and I pretty quickly accepted that in an event like this everyone has to ride their own pace.

The weather had warmed up a little but it was still overcast and cool which, given the number of little hills we were constantly going up and down, was not such a bad thing. My general impressions of the event: very narrow, twisty roads with lots of “street furniture” in the way that required some vigilance to avoid; huge numbers of very fit-looking riders, overwhelmingly Dutch and abnormally tall; impressive numbers of very fit-looking female Dutch riders, who easily overtook me at will. Dutch riders were sometimes a bit overconfident in their bike handling as more than once someone would pass me then immediately cut in front, forcing me to brake. At times the roads were so narrow that they actually were more like riding along through sunken ditches. Auto traffic was fairly limited and very respectful.

I felt that things were going pretty well, considering my limited preparation. Some of the hills had big numbers on them for the professional event and although we were riding them somewhat out of order, I contemplated that fact that we would ride 12 and the pros 31 yet somehow I was sure we were riding far more than 12. Of course, here in the Limburger Alps a lot of the bits of landscape I considered hills were not even counted. It was going to be a long day after all...

At just over 50 kms we came to the first food stop, where I quickly caught up to Thomas. In addition to the usual bananas and energy drinks, there were lots of waffles to enjoy and I cheerfully gorged myself. But not wanting to get cold meant getting back on the bike and continuing. My left leg was a bit sore but otherwise things were going quite well. I did notice that I was not drinking enough and resolved to get some more fluids in.

Most people were riding good racing bikes, although there were also a few mountain bikes in the mix. At one point we passed an older Dutch gentlemen returning from his shopping on his city bike. He was moving quite well but I was still somewhat surprised when he passed us on the next long descent. But I figured he was carrying some additional weight plus knew the road well but while we passe him at the beginning of the next climb he wasn’t going to let that happen and managed to ride past us–uphill. Ah, the Dutch!

My enjoyable Saturday ride was threatened at around 80 kms as we rode though some light rain showers but these passed, to my relief, and soon it was dry again. The next highlight was probably riding into Belgium briefly and then beginning a climb to the highest point in Belgium, marked by an observation tower, followed very soon after by the highest point in the Netherlands, marked by an observation tower.

But the fun did not last for much longer: at 100 kms the heavens opened and for the next 50 kms I would “enjoy” one of my most miserable cycling experiences.

Sure, nobody picks Holland as a travel destination because of the fine weather but this was ridiculous. The rain poured down, cold and relentless, and many cyclists stopped under overpasses or in bus shelters. After fifteen minutes I was thinking I could not get much wetter so I thought it just better to press on and finish the stupid ride. Having won my place in the event through a draw, I was not feeling much like a lottery winner as the rain blasted us.

But wait: what’s this? Turning a corner into a climb we were not only greeted by a ferocious headwind but by hail pelting our faces. It was painful and I could feel my upper lip and cheeks swelling from the impact. At least everyone looked as if they were suffering as much as I was!

I had done quite well on the hills so far but a sign indicated that I was now about to meet the Keutzenberg, advertised as the “steepest hill in Holland.” That may not sound like much but I quickly discovered after the 4% grade at the start that a 22% grade is just that, wherever you are. I was already getting very tired from the cold and my legs just wouldn’t do their stuff so I had to suffer the indignity of pushing my bike uphill for a few hundred meters. I was not the only one so humiliated although the very tall, very skinny, very well-trained riders passing on the left gave me no comfort even though they were hurting too.

That bit of hell passed, back on the bike but now I did not do much more riding in the big chainring. My soaked gloves and tights and freezing feet were not improving my mood and the next stretch of road, a wide and busy regional road past flat farmland, was fantastically dull. Now it was time to call the last reserves of strength as I was down to the last 20 kms of the ride and was certain I would prevail.

The rain did not let up at all as I approached Valkenburg and the famous Cauberg, which the pros ride something like seven times in all for the Amstel Gold race. The route takes you around the town as the Cauberg is actually on the outskirts. I was very tired and wet and cold as I began the climb but in a surprisingly good mood now. At 400 m to go I got a bad cramp in my leg and had to stop and rub it out and then at 200 m it happened again, but on the other leg. I finished off my last water as I stood on the course, got back on the bike and summoned my strength for my Big Sprint Finish across the line.

I saw a cyclist in a white rain jacket ahead and to my left and as I overtook him with a last burst of speed I realized it was my friend Thomas, so I held back a bit and we rode across the line together. It was a huge relief to be done and we were directed off the course and towards some tents. We received our medals (which hilariously double as beer bottle openers!) and as we came to the big tents where entertainment was in full swing, we both decided that the last thing we needed was a Dutch disco.

To get back to our cars we had to loop around the town again and follow part of the course downhill once more. I lost Thomas and then as I was riding to the car I became confused and was unable to find the parking lot. I went back to the Old Town to try to retrace our path from the morning but I was so cold and wet I could not make my brain work very well. I did have my cellphone and was able to call the Thin Man, who was already back in Mechelen, but the effort of pressing the keys with my violently shaking hands was huge. I also got a call from Thomas, who was in the parking lot and wondering where I was. He gave me directions and I got back on the bike and headed down the same road I had been on before. If I only would have gone an extra 200 m the first time I would have found the car!

Anyway, I stripped off some of my wet gear, put the bike in the back and then sat in the car with the heater turned up all the way for a good 15-20 minutes. After I stopped shaking I was able to put the Qashqai into gear and drive back uneventfully to Mechelen.

The Amstel Gold sportif is extremely well-organized (except for the weather, sadly) and for the most part takes you through very charming landscapes. Not only we were photographed and videoed along the way, our times were taken for each individual leg and people could follow our suffering from home. I had a good start with the first leg averaging 23 km/h but then as the weather turned and the hills increased my speed dropped until my final time, including two food stops and a few photo stops, gave me an average of 17.4 km/h. The route is on my GPS and I will go back to Valkenburg to ride the course again (and beat the Keutzenberg!) when we have better weather. Still, I would recommend participating if you can “win” the lottery too.

After a very good night’s sleep, I awoke with a much more positive attitude and after the Thin Man and I gorged on a huge breakfast, we took our somewhat-cleaned bikes out to watch the pro race go by. Although it would go through Mechelen three times, we picked a nearby hill which would be more interesting than a flat fly-past at speed. Joining us was a fellow-cycling blogger from Australia, Sandra, whose blog I have read for a number of years and enjoyed but I had never had the opportunity to meet her. She has been travelling with her husband Alberto through Europe with a motor home, taking in all the great races and riding famous routes. It was great to finally meet her and Alberto and after making contact in Mechelen we rode up the nearby hill and awaited the peloton.

German speakers from Australia and Canada meet in the Netherlands!

A small breakaway group of about ten riders tore past us at a speed I do not recall doing at the same rate the day before on this same hill and some 12 minutes later the main pack followed. I was struck, once again, by how narrow the roads are, especially with a surging peloton going by. After all the team cars had gone, we rode back down the hill and went into a restaurant in Mechelen for some good solid Dutch food and where the Thin Man, who is fluent in German but less so in Dutch, ended up with something completely different than he thought he had ordered. No matter: we all had a good time, first with eating together and then rushing outside to see the breakaway and peloton go by once again through the main road in Mechelen.

I managed to even make a short video for the blog, showing the action on the hill as well as on the flat in Mechelen:

It was bitterly cold and we all felt that was enough spectating for the day so we took our leave and the Thin Man and I returned to our apartment, packed up our gear and did the short drive back to Düsseldorf. The next day, Monday, the Thin Man had to leave for appointments in Cologne and Bonn and I had to go to the office but that evening I was back in the Qashqai and driving westwards again, this time to Belgium and the Fleche Wallonne sportif ride on Tuesday. But that’s another story!

Here is the Amstel Gold sportif course: very very complicated!

Five Boro Bike Tour: Sunday, May 6th, 2012

2012-05-06T11:27:15Z

The Five Boro Bike Tour is this Sunday (May 6, 2012) and is sold out.

New York’s Five Boro Bike Tour is the largest recreational cycling event in the United States. Every year on the first Sunday of May, over 30,000 riders participate in the 42 mile ride around New York City. The route, closed to automobile traffic, takes riders through all five boroughs of New York City, across five major bridges, and finally across New York Harbor on the Staten Island Ferry. It is a lot of fun for cyclists of all skill sets and highly recommended.

The Road To Heaven

2012-05-05T17:41:00Z

That's Mark Baker (left), Brian Reagan, Stewart Moore, David Murphy, and myself at Únětický pivovar.

We had the best of intentions.

A bike ride was planned. We'd all meet at the Únětický pivovar in Únětice and then cycle out to the village of Chýně, about 25 kilometers away.

There's also a brewpub in Chýně. Total coincidence.

The thing was, we met up in Únětice, and the sun was shining, and the beer was flowing and we all got to talking nonsense and somehow one beer turned into five. Or maybe it was six.

Finally, we extricated ourselves and headed toward Chýně, through Tuchoměřice.

CLICK HERE for a map of our route via Garmin Connect

Tuchoměřice, only about five kilometers from Únětice, is the home of Auberge de Provence, a lovely Belgian restaurant with an elegant outdoor patio and garden that some in our cycling party had never visited.

So we stopped for another drink. And some food. Fine food, it was. Oysters on the half shell and Caesar salad and fantastic Belgian frites. A rump steak. A few more beers. We never made it to Chýně.

It was one of our shortest, beeriest, and most memorable rides.

But this is why we ride. For the exercise, of course, but for the friends and the adventure. For the utter unpredictability. For the fun of it.

RIDE STATS
Length of ride: 27 kilometers
Average speed: 15.2 kph
Maximum speed: 53.4 kph
Time on the bike: 1.46.39
Pivo Index: 7? 8?
Distance ridden so far in 2012: 149 kilometers

The long slog to Tuchoměřice.

Holding forth at Auberge de Provence.

Oysters at Auberge de Provence.

Rump steak at Auberge de Provence.

An excellent Caesar salad at Auberge de Provence.

Things started to get a little fuzzy after so many beers.

Ještě jedno pivo?

Brian and his fancy new Cannondale. (Photo by Mark Baker)

Clouding over. (Photo by Mark Baker)

Here's to good friends. Tonight is kinda special. (Photo by Mark Baker)

Smith and Wollensky

2012-05-01T17:45:09Z

Smith and Wollensky, New york ziyaretimizde deneme fırsatı bulduğum et konusunda gerçekten son derece başarılı bir restoran. Aslında bir kozmetik ürün satıcısı olan Alan Stillman, annesinden aldığı 5.000 dolarlık yatırım ve girişimciliği ile 1965 yılında Manhattan adasındaki First avenue’da açılan T.G.I. Friday’s restoranının mucidi. Bu aslında ABD’deki ilk bekarlar bar konseptinin de yaratılması demek idi. Daha sonra hızlıca 13 lokasyona yayıldı. Bugün ise dünyada 50 ülkede 1.000’den fazla T.G.I. var…

Daha sonra 1976 yılında hisselerini satan Stillman, 1977 yılının Ekim ayında 49. Cadde ile 3. Bulvar’ın kesişiminde Smith & Wollensky ‘yi açtı. İsmi ise New York’taki sarı sayfalarda bulunan iki tane rastgele soyadını seçerek koyması, yaratıcılığı ve farklılığını anlatmak için yeterli.

New York’teki en en özel Steak House’lardan biri olan bu restoran ABD’nin her yerinden özenle seçilmiş çok farklı Steak’leri geleneksel yöntemler ilebekletmesi, yıllandırması ve pişirmesi ile ünlü.

Kasaplık zor zanaat. Özellikle et konusunda Türkiye’de Günaydın, Nusr-et gibi önemli isimlerin restoranlarında Anadolu’nun kekikleri ile beslenmiş hayvanları yedikten sonra dünyada çoğu ülkede özellikle İngiltere’de hala çok istediğimiz tarz et yediğimizi söyleyemem. Ancak burası başka bir dünya. Gerek porsiyonları, servis kalitesi ve tlerin pişirilmesi ile muhteşem bir deneyim yaşatıyor.

Duvarları dünyaca ünlü dergiler tarafından notlar, ünlü fotoğrafları ve makaleler ile bezenmi bu restoran New York Manhattan göbeğinde ve özellikle öğren saatlerinde çok dolu. 2006 yılında The Devil Wears Prada isimli filmde hem restoran hem de mutfağı kullanılmış.

Ayrıca Christian Bale ve Willem Defoe’nun oynadığı Amerikan Sapığı isimli filmde de buluşma mekanı olarak kullanılmış. Restoran’ın en çok basında duyulduğu konu ise ünlü Warren Buffet ile akşam yemeği yemek için girişimcilerin milyonlarca dolar vermesi. Yemek tabiki bu restoranda…

Rezarvasyonsuz kapıyı açarak çok rahat kıyafetler ile bu restorana Sedef’in ete doymasından dolayı tek geliyorum. Kendisi iki sokak farklı mekanda deniz ürünü ile keyif çatarken ben restoranda kapıda kalacağımı düşünüp hayıflandım. Son derece beyefendi beyaz önlüklü bir görevli geldi ve bana rezarvasyonum olup olmadığını sordu. Olmadığını söylememe rağmen beni orta karar bir kolasyonda güzel bir masaya oturttu.

Önce harika ekmekler ve muhteşem bir tereyağı geldi. Seçimi kendilerine bıraktım, Colorado Bifteğinde karar kıldık.

Hafif yağlı ve kocaman bir et geleceği, yemek öncesi muhteşem tahta saplı klasik bir et bıçağının gelmesinden belli idi. Şarap uçuş öncesi içmediğimden kolanın bu et için en uygun hazmettirici olduğunu düşündüm ve onda karar kıldım.

Etim geldiğinde ise göslerime inanamadım. Yaklaşık 650-700 gram ağırlığında bu et Floransa’daki Buca Lapi ve Buca Mario’da yediklerimden bile büyük. Yağlarını biraz ayrıştırsam bile çok ağır ve keyifle yavaş yavaş yedim. İnsanoğlunun belkide en iyi şekilde protein aldığı an… Bu büyüklükte bundan daha iyi pişirilmiş bir et yediğimi hatırlamıyorum.

New York dışında Philadelphia, Houston, Columbus, Las Vegas, Miami, Chicago, Boston and Washington D.C. gibi lokasyonlarda da bu restoranlardan var. Ama klasik olanı New York’taki. Aşağıdaki ilk video’da bir yemek belgesel kanalının ziyaretini ve ikinci video’da ise Amerikan tarzı esprisi ile kendi reklam filmini bulabilirsiniz.

New York’a giderseniz saçma sapan yerlerde burger, junk yemek keyfine varılabiliyor. Ancak pahalı olmasına rağmen önceden rezarvasyon yapıp gitmenizi öneririm. Hayat boyunca elde edeceğiniz nadir deneyimlerden.

Adress: 49th Street & 3rd Avenue New York, NY 10022 (212) 753-1530

Open: 7 Days a Week:
Lunch 11:45am, Monday – Friday
Dinner until 11 pm, 7 Nights a Week

Londra`dan beğendiğimiz Kafe , Pub ve restoranlar / Best Food spots & posts from London

Mishkin

2012-04-28T00:39:14Z

Ezra Mishkin bir yetim. Ailesi maalesef savaş sırasında 1919 civarında öldürülmüş ve uzun süre zor şartlar altında siyah ekmek, çorbaya benzeyen az katkılı çorba ile beslenerek sırtındaki gri babasından kalan mantosu ile Ukraynadan Londraya bir şekilde 1931 yılında göç etmeyi başarıyor. Yanı 12 yıl sonra Ezra Mishkin isimli restoranını açmayı başarıyor.

Jewish Deli tipinde yani yahudilere özgü yemeklerin, tuzlanmış bifteğin, doğu avrupada meşhur özel sosislerin yapıldığı bir restoran haline geliyor.Aslında kosher usulü sosis ve et hazırlanması New York’a Almanya ve Avrupa’dan göç eden Yahudilerin Manhattan adasına yerleşmesi ile ilk olarak 1905 yılında Romanyalı bir kasap olan Isadore Pinckowitz tarafından başlatılsa da ünü çok çabuk yayılıp. ABD’den sonra Avrupalara yayılıyor.

New York ziyareti sırasında gittiğimiz Deli tarzı restoranları yazacağız. Ancak Mishkin Londrada ve onu keşfetmeye gidiyoruz. Aslında içeri girince Brooklyn tarzı bir American diner’ın andırsada çalan müzikler ve Spuntino‘dan transfer tarz elemanları ile buram buram Londra kokuyor…

Covent Garden’daki restoran’ın sahibi Russell Norman ayrıca bizim çok sevdiğimiz Polpo, Polpetto, Spuntino gibi restoranların da sahibi. Italya Venedik köylerinde yenen küçük tabak yemeklerini Londra’ya taşıyor. Uygun fiyatlı restoranları dolup taşıyor. Mishkin‘in içi diğer restoranlara göre daha ferah. Barı çok daha küçük ama masa sayısı ve oturma alanı diğerlerine göre daha büyük.

Menü’de Salted Beef yani tuzlanmış biftek li sandwich, soslu köfteler, ciğer, büyükçe ızgara et ve harika atıştırmalar var. Bunlar harika soğan halkaları, patates kızartması, lahana salatası…

Bizim yemedeğimiz ama gene yahudi yemek kültürüne has Reuben, Boğa kuyruğu, Tavuklu çorba, İsli yılan balığı da bulunmakta.

Özellikle New York’takilerden en büyük farkı, gelen bifteğin boyutu tabiiki daha küçük. Ancak eti daha az yağlı. Ekmeğine maalesef hardalı tereyağ ile karıştırıp sürmüşler, bunu gelmeden engellemenizi öneririm. Et hardal ile güzel ama İngilizlerin tereyağı hayranlığı hardal ile karışınca keyifli değil.

Soslu köfteye gelince ise muazzam. Hafif baharatlı ama akıllara zarar. buraya gelirseniz çok aç değilseniz bir köfte, bir tuzlu biftek sandwich alıp yanına soğan halkaları söylemeniz yeterli olur. Biz hata yapp iki sandwich aldık. Ama çok fazla geldi.

Mishkin’e hava kararmaya yakın gittik. Ancak iki farklı havası var restoranın. Öğlen normal bir diner havasında iken akşam müziğin sesi açılıyor, perdeler iniyor ve restoran cool kimliğine bürünüyor. Barda ise Negroni yani gin bazlı kokteyl ve martinileri denemenizi öneririm.

25 Catherine Street, Covent Gardenö London. www.mishkins.co.uk

Londra`dan beğendiğimiz Kafe , Pub ve restoranlar / Best Food spots & posts from London

Surviving The Tour de Romandie Prologue

2012-04-27T19:38:14Z

Albertina is a friend who loves the Euskatel cycling team

Surviving The Tour de Romandie Prologue

Red Reef Loop

2012-04-27T14:36:00Z

The White (cliffs in foreground) and Red (mid-distance) reefs, and the Pine Valley Mountains (far background) make an interesting scene along along the Prospector Trail. The couple of miles along the well-constructed Prospector trail are the easiest along the mostly cross-country Red Reef route.

The Red Cliffs Recreation Area near Leeds in southwestern Utah has exploded in popularity the last few years. There is a quaint campground with nice amenities, but it is the short walk into the Quail Creek Narrows that attracts tremendous day use, especially in the Spring. On some of the busier Spring weekends, BLM rangers have had to turn people away because there just aren't enough parking places near the trailhead.

The vast majority of folks flocking to Red Cliffs splash up the creek, perhaps take a dip in some of the larger pools near the "Moki steps," and then head back down. Few venture into the more difficult slot section of the narrows above, and even fewer penetrate into the upper reaches of Quail Creek Canyon or its tributaries.

For those looking to see more of this area and escape the crowds, try the Red Reef Trail, which is really more of a route than it is a trail. The Red Reef Trail allows you to enjoy Quail Creek's watery narrows, but for most of the hike, you'll definitely be on your own--but in a good way.

I led a small Scout group through the approximately 10-mile hike last March. While it is a moderately challenging hike for most (sections of deep sand, confusing route finding, exposed downclimbing), the 12- to 15-year-old boys in my group had no trouble completing the hike. The general route is shown on the Red Cliffs Reserve Map and other maps covering the reserve. The loop can be completed in either direction, and there are advantages to both. Clockwise from near the Orson Adams house (just east of the campground) allows you to wade through the snow-melt water in the narrows during the heat of the afternoon. This is the direction I went with the Scouts. I've done it counter-clockwise as well, which allows you to hike downhill through the sandy wash sections.

It's a fantastic hike, and I'm surprised very few people have completed the entire loop.

Typical scene of the Red Reef route where is follows a sandy wash along a tributary of Cottonwood Creek.

Near the pass between the Cottonwood and Quail Creek drainages. Sweeping views of bluffs and bowls carved in the Navajo Sandstone are a highlight of this section.

Petrified sand foresets frozen at the angle of repose.

Majestic Desert Bighorns? Nah, looks like someone's pet goats got out and are a long way from home.

An interesting and rare constructed part of the mostly back-country Red Reef route. Someone put in a lot of work to cut this bench into the slickrock.

The descent down an unnamed tributary of Quail Creek is as exciting as it is scenic. There are several cliffs and potholes to negotiate. The hardest part seen here has a fixed rope.

The slot section of the Quail Creek narrows is a good introduction to basic canyoneering techniques: stemming, downclimbing waterfalls, and wading in ice-cold water.

Near the bottom of the slot is where you'll start to meet the throngs of people coming up from the bottom.

The famous "Moki steps" of Quail Creek. Rumor has it that back in the late 1800s, the early settlers of Harrisburg discovered much-smaller steps carved here by the Anasazi. They were later enlarged (and a rope has been permanently attached) to help out the less-nimble modern explorer.

Below the narrows on the north side of the canyon, a large cave makes a nice lunch spot on a sunny day. The Anasazi once called the cave a home, but vandalism has pretty much erased any signs of occupation.

There's no better way to end a long hike than with a little cliff jumping. We had quite the audience judging our dives.

Cuba

2012-04-21T09:06:00Z

We popped into Cuba for a couple of days on our way home. People don't generally pop in and out of Cuba and it's not really advisable, especially when the Pope's also popping in for the same couple of days and planning on generally getting in your way. We weren't stalking him, honest, although he may have been stalking us.

I'd long coveted Cuba as a potential cycle touring destination so knew a few things about it including that it was full of shiny old cars from the Fifties, and considerably less full of Americans. In our brief time there it was interesting to see the reality.

We didn't meet any Americans (although we met quite a few Germans and also an English couple - we realised it had been a few weeks since we'd seen other English people so hearing the accent was unexpectedly odd!). We stayed in a casa particular, which is a private B&B - everything I've ever read about Cuba recommends staying and eating in them rather than hotels and restaurants - and it was certainly very pleasant, but more about that later...

Quite a lot of the cars (maybe a third?) still are ancient yank tanks - most of them (apart from the taxis) are not so shiny with rust patches everywhere and spewing out lots of black exhaust smoke. It's quite a sight though, and very surreal when we first arrived, especially as they were on relatively modern looking roads and not in a black and white movie.

We spent our only full day in Havana trying to get air tickets home. We weren't sure when we arrived there whether we'd be sticking around, we'd become a bit holidayed out and keen to get home, eat delicious English food (actually yes, really) and allow our poor injured wallets to recover a bit - but it quickly became clear, for various reasons, that we'd definitely had enough. So we headed over to the offices of Cubana, the national airline, to buy our tickets back to London and that was when things started getting fun.

We'd checked on the internet the previous night, on our casa's blazingly fast (and probably a bit illegal) 38kbps internet connection, so we knew the price of the tickets. When they tried to charge us an extra 200CUC each we were a bit surprised but when we questioned this it became clear that there was a credit card price and a cash price, and that if we paid in cash we'd get our tickets at close enough to the internet price. Which was where the fun began - there was a cash machine next door, and it even worked (not common in Cuba) but it would only give out 150CUC at a time in 5CUC bills. We'd have to do that about six times to get enough cash, and that many notes in my money belt would make me look super-fat.

The next hour was spent trekking around town trying to find a decent ATM. We found one that only gave out CUP (the other Cuban currency, for locals only) and one that didn't really exist, before giving up and going back to the first one. We went into the bank and tried to use our cards to get money out at the counter. They wouldn't do that without seeing our visas, which the owner of our casa had conveniently not returned to us after taking down our details. So Dgym went to the original ATM and withdrew as much money as he could in 5CUC notes, which turned out to be just enough. He then waddled back into the bank looking extremely fat and changed them for 50's. I'm sure they put the fives straight back in the cash machine. Dgym promptly received a flurry of text messages from his ever-vigilant bank, who had noticed some weird cash withdrawal activity in a foreign country and decided to block his cards. Yay! But we got our tickets. Us: 1, Cuba: 0.

It was lunchtime by then - we caught a tourist bus back to the casa to sort a few things out, then spent another couple of hours trying to get back on the tourist bus (turns out you can get off anywhere but you have to find the stops to get on, or it will whizz by and ignore you) by which time it was getting kind of late and now we were worrying about not having enough cash left to pay for our dinner and all the other stuff - the next day would be a special holiday as everybody had the morning off to watch the Pope do his thing, so the banks (and probably the ATMs too) would be closed. So we had to get off the tourist bus again at the first cash machine we saw, which fortunately worked, while I got us lots more $5 bills. By then it was about 5pm.

No, Cuba's not somewhere you just pop into. For somewhere we only spent a couple of days, there's rather a lot to be said (and if you've spoken to Dgym since we got back, you'll have heard all about what he thought of Cuba!) ... more to follow!

Nathan Quickdraw Elite Bottle

2012-04-16T17:57:55Z

Thanks to Castleberg Outdoors I got the opportunity to test Nathan`s Quickdraw Elite Bottle. I have few other Nathan products which are really ergonomic and useful during my runs.

About Nathan Propulsion Labs

It’s this tireless pursuit that has made Nathan Performance Gear a world leader of innovative hydration, reflective, and multisport gear and accessories. Nathan’s line of race belts and vests, bladder packs, handhelds, runner’s packs, bottles, and reflective vests and accessories continue to help athletes of all levels redefine humanly possible. Available in specialty running shops, sporting goods stores, and over 35 countries worldwide, Nathan Performance Gear is a subsidiary of Penguin Brands, Inc. More: http://nathansports.com/about-us

The product sits on your hand comfortably. the mesh designed hand strap is both adjustable by putting your thumbnail inside to its special positioning style. So this way it does not bounce and you fell the bottle on your hand. At the same time you don not need to hold the bottle so firm that your hand will not get wet due to sweating. The same grabbing is also featured in other Nathan bottle that i have. You can read it`s test from here.

Small things make the runners life easier. Nathan is a compnay that things these small tips and tricks during the runs. The pocket that is embedded to the bottle has a key ring and a small compartment for a small mobile phone ( Not Smart Phones) or couple of gels, credit cards, money. Rather than the zipped compartment you can add two GU type Gels in to the front compartment which is elastic mesh pocket.

Another important feature is the ID Card attached to the bottle. This is helpful in case of any non desired situation so that people can reach your relatives. This is a very good and cool feature and i am sure that nathan is adding this to their product range.

I like Nathan products and have at least 4-5 different valuable products that i use. Handheld bottles are one of these. I strongly recommend you to try some of their products and buy when you need.

Technical Specs

Unique, adjustable hand strap eliminates the need to grip the Bottle and offers alternative hand positions
22 oz. (650 mL) Hydration Bottle with Clipless Cap
Highly weather-resistant pocket and zipper provide extra protection from the elements
Large, zippered pocket with external Power Stretch Mesh pocket fits smart phones
Rugged collar securely holds Bottle and prevents hand strap from loosening
Reflective detail
Weight: 4 oz.

Other Nathan Product Tests

Salomon S-Lab Sense Limited Edition

2012-04-13T15:16:37Z

Almost 2 months ago Salomon sent me an e-mail stating that i am one of the 106 (actually 105 + Killian Jornet ) lucky person that will have the limited edition Salomon S-Lab Sense with special inside designed by Killian Jornet and dedicated to his epic WS100 victory.

Think about me… I was delighted… Mad… Joyfull… Since i have met Salomon as a brand in 2004 almost 8 years ago, i felt in love and it is my true love mark that i follow, breathe, research everyday about it… I was writing articles about my Salomon gear, spreading my passion about it, telling about product quality…

I was doing this because i love it and share it through my blog. I was sharing to get few other to love it as well. I introduced the new models to first Turkish Trail runner community. I was only had buy them from abroad when i was visiting due to my business trips. Then Salomon Turkey helped me to test few and equipped me with some stuff wen i was heading to UTMB CCC in 2010.

When i came to the UK for my new work, i had chance to introduce my trail running blog posts, gear reviews to the British running community and this took attention where this was one of the best rewards i have ever got due to my blog posts and patient and passionate investing on my articles. Thank You Salomon Trail Running !

Lets come back to the shoe passing my over joy a little bit a side This is a special shoe where it is only been produced 106 pairs. And number 1 belongs to Killian Jornet and number 50 belongs to me

WHY 106 PAIRS ?

This is something that most of the people might not exactly knew ? If you have been following Salomon Facebook Pages and comments regularly, this was once discussed. 106 the distance (in miles) of the WS100 and the UTMB, plus 6 miles corresponding to the +2 Killian has done at the WS when he got lost and the +4 additional the organizers of the UTMB added because of weather conditions. This is a good catch and idea where states all the official victory miles that is done by this shoe on Killian`s feet.

Unfortunately the shoes are only in 9 US – 8.5 in UK size. I am 9.5 in US so i can not fit my feet inside This is a ultimate collectioners item, i would ask people not to lose or destroy this and leave to their children in the future telling about Salomon and Killian.

SHOES in DETAIL

This proven shoe played a key role in helping Kilian Jornet win the 2011 WS100 and UTMB. Low, light and fast, the Salomon S-LAB Sense is a top-level race shoe designed with involvement of top athletes to allow natural foot motion and forefoot running. It has a seamless construction with a breathable open mesh upper. It provides a seamless fit with SENSIFIT™ Technology and protective TPU toe cap. It has a lace pocket with the Salomon QUICKLACE™ system and a tongue cover. This shoe has dynamic traction and facilitates lightweight racing.

TECHNICAL SPECS

Weight: 6.9 OZ (Size 9M) (Unisex sizing)
Upper: 2nd skin, seamless construction, breathable open mesh, seamless Sensifit, protective TPU Toe Cap, lace pocket, quicklace, Tongue cover, Endofit, Racing last.
Sole Construction: Outsole – Non-Marking Contragrip, OS Tendon, Dynamic Traction. Midsole – Profeel.
Midsole Height: 9mm/13mm
MSRP: $200

MORE TECHNICAL SPECS

UPPER:

- 2nd Skin Seamless construction
- Breathable open mesh
- Seamless Sensifit
- Protective TPU toe cap
- Sensifit
- Lace Pocket
- Quicklace system
- Tongue cover
- Endofit
- Racing last

SOLE CONSTRUCTION OUTSOLE:- Non-marking Contragrip
- OS Tendon
- Light weight racing
- Dynamic Traction
CHASSIS
- Profeel
MIDSOLE HEIGHT
- 9mm/13mm

The shoe is incredibly light. You can not imagine how light it is before taking to your hand. I showed the shoe to both runners and non runners where all of them could not believed the weight of the shoe. 6.5 ounces (185 grams) for a men’s US 9 !

Bright red color and plain white without any addition of any colors was this years selection. Regarding to the clothes and gear that Killian was using in the Western States, Killian was mostly minimalist during this epic victory as the first European. His sleeveless special top, short cut shorts, and minimalist hand soft flasks and hat… This shoe was the perfect add up to his binding with nature and getting the revenge from last years mistakes in Western states 2010 where he was 3rd.

On the review of irunfar, Bryon Powell states the heel drop and the design behind it as follows:

“It’s a low-to-the-ground 9 mm in the forefoot and 13 mm in the heel for a 4 mm heel-to-toe drop. Anyone who’s seen Kilian run knows that he’s a featherweight, efficient, forefoot runner so why isn’t this a zero-drop shoe you ask? Well, because it’s designed to race 100 miles or more and Kilian wanted a 4 mm drop for the kilometers after mile 80. There’s something to be said for a little extra protection, even on a non-technical course”.

One of the important things regarding this shoe is that Killian can wear these without socks as he likes running like that. so actually the shoe is designed to wear it without socks. The upper part of the inside of the shoe and sides are padded. Salomon calls this EndoFit which is so comfortable.

Another important feature for the limited edition is the small map that Killian draw for his Western states Run inside the shoe.

Map indicates where to take action, where is snowy and where are the checkpoints. It is a quite good thing to see what Killian did on his 100 mile journey.

REVIEWS

Some of the great ultra running sites have reviewed the shoe in detail as well. So i just wanted to show them as well for giving a credit to their efforts.

SALOMON S-LAB SENSE LIVE EVENT

Salomon team also did a great PR around Facebook and launched the first online live shoe review by S-Lab engineers and designers hosted by Vollet Greg, Marketing Manager of Salomon in Annecy. More than 500 people were at the same time watching the event sometimes peaking to more. On below you can find a one hour video of this event.

“For three years we worked with Kilian, frequently stripping pieces from our existing shoes, reducing heel drop, and making small changes. Finally, we decided to create something totally new. Everything on the new Sense has a purpose, nothing extra was added. Kilian’s results with the shoe speak for themselves.” – Jeff Dill, Salomon Running Product Manager

The event was great as not only watching the event but you can type, ask questions to Killian and S-Lab team at the same time and most of the questions was answered. I hope, Salomon would like to do events like this to showcase their shes for the first time to public, which might creative an incredibly hype.

VIDEO REVIEWS

Other fellow prominent running sites and magazines had great reviews starting with irunfar.com by Bryon Powell whom has showed the first closer look video of this new shoe.

Video Review by IrunFar.com

Video Review by Trail running (Spanish)

Video Review by Running Shoes

LIMITED EDITION GIVE AWAY CAMPAIGNS

Some of the web sites and also magazines have given pairs with campaigns. Salomon Facebook Fan Page still has a live campaign on their FB page till to end of April 2012. This might lead you to win one of the 9 limited edition shoes left

MORE PICTURES

You can look to Salomon Sense Facebook Page

HOW TO BUY ?

Definately you will have chance to buy this shoe from retailers of Salomon after May. But if you want to get them first you have to pre order to some selected reetailers. As me being part of their amateur racing team Castleberg Outdoors are also having collecting demands for this shoes. Go to their web site by clicking the below picture to order.

Other Salomon / Products Reviews

Return to Münsterland: Yet More Castles, Please!

2012-04-12T21:49:00Z

After my successful visit to Münsterland last summer (although the weather was not very summery!), I spent the second half of the Easter Weekend visiting my friends in Laer and setting out on the next leg of my own “100 Castles Tour,” with my plan being to enjoy Easter Sunday with my friends Carmen and Uwe and participate in the thrilling backyard Easter Egg Hunt with 2 year old Franziska and then reserve Monday for a long ride doing part of the 100 Castles route Northwestern loop before taking the train back to Düsseldorf in the evening.

Leaving the big city on the 8:12 InterCity, I was the only person in the train car and, needless to say, the Blue Basso was the only bike to be seen as well. I enjoyed the quiet trip of about 75 minutes and disembarked in Münster, where the main train station has been under reconstruction for what seems like several decades, and quickly made my way to the parking lot where I met Uwe, who was driving a very impressive black Skoda Superbe station wagon rental car. Although I had installed mudguards on the Basso, it was no problem fitting the bike into the back with only the front wheel removed. A quick 20 minute ride and we were back in Laer.

In addition to my friends and their little girl, there was another couple there with there 2 year old, Lily. After an extended and relaxing breakfast, we all put on our warm clothing and went out into the yard for the Easter Egg Hunt. This was very entertaining as the two 2 year olds basically had no clue what to do as they stood there with collecting baskets. Helpful parents directed the toddlers to the various caches of eggs (which were in rather plain sight) and after a good deal of pointing and urging everyone had a large haul. And the visitor from Düsseldorf was treated to a big Lindt dark chocolate bunny.

Chapel near Laer

The sun was shining brightly and with the weather forecast for Monday looking decidedly grim, I decided to change my plans and attempt my castle tour on Easter Sunday, although I realized that with my propensity for getting lost (even with the GPS) an afternoon start on a 115 km long course would not be so smart so I figured I would just shorten it a bit.

Leaving Laer around 1:30, my first leg took me a mere 6 kms to Horstmar, which in spite of its population of 6,000 is deemed to be a “city.” I passed the old railway station and noticed a lot of construction in the area around it. Just to the north of the station begins a beautifully paved rails-to-trails bike route and the construction indicates that the right-of-way paving will continue to Laer. I wanted to take a photo of the bike route, which Uwe later told me goes 40 km to Rheine, and at that moment two cyclists on racing bikes obligingly passed by, making a more interesting photo!

I rode into the city itself, passing the Schmitz Cargobull logistics office and warehouse (once the largest sock factory in Europe when Horstmar was a textile centre) and came through two pillars marking the boundary of the old town. Horstmar, which was first established in the 9th Century, has a very odd feature. It is set out as a big square and within the one-time city wall were a number of “Burgmannhof” features, which were basically walled compounds within the walled city. These were occupied by the gentry or lower nobility and had a defensive purpose. Their owners had administrative functions to play as well in the town. Of the original eight Burgmannhöfe in Horstmar, five still exist and I took pictures of two of them.

In addition to this novel feature, the city has a fine Altes Rathaus dating to 1571 and used for meetings and weddings now, along with an impressive church that goes back to the 14th Century. I was so impressed by Horstmar that I rode out of town unintentionally failing to go look at Haus Alst, the castle that I came to add to my list. It is found a bit to the northeast and easily reached from Laer. Next time!

My route took me further west now to Schöppingen along a rather busy Bundestrasse. The course I laid out before leaving took me somewhat the wrong way but not only did I see the very nice 1538 Rathaus but I also found the local mill museum, which disappointed somewhat through its lack of a waterwheel. It stands on the little Vechte river, which apparently offers a bike route along its 160 km length. The mill also offered two signs in Platte, the regional dialect, and the locals are so proud of their dialect that they have posted poems in Platte at various bikepath points, something I have never seen before in Germany, which has no shortage of regional dialects.

Leaving Schöppingen I rode north towards Metelen and then proceeded to take a really boring main road further north to Wettringen, a place I had not really intended to visit but which I had confused with nearby Welbergen. I had passed a sign for Haus Welbergen, which was one of my castles for the day, but thought I could go around and still get there. This was completely wrong and I as I sat eating a sandwich in front of the nondescript Rathaus in boring Wettringen, I decided to try to find Haus Welbergen and then shorten my route back to Laer instead of proceeding to Bad Bentheim and Rheine as I had planned. Easier said than done.

My navigation skills failed me as I headed toward Ochtrup, which was not really on my itinerary but soon I headed south through Welbergen, but no Haus Welbergen there, of course, and I missed the Villa Jordan, a fancy 1920s mansion built for the van Heek family (more anon). I was on a marked dirt bike path which was pleasant enough but since I was not sure where I was going I asked an older lady walking her dog how to get to Haus Welbergen. She directed me through the next village, Langenhorst, and said that once I left that place I should turn left and I should get to Haus Welbergen, which was perhaps 1 km out of town. She mentioned that Langenhorst had a particularly nice church.

The church was built from 1180-1225 (although damaged badly by fire in the 16th Century) and is indeed impressive. It served as the church for an Augustinian abbey until 1576 when a foundation of noblewomen took over the church and abbey for charitable purposes.

Haus Welbergen

After several wrong turns and mounting frustration I finally found a sign for Haus Welbergen and soon rolled up to the entrance on a very quiet side street. I was thinking that it had better be worth it for all my annoyance in getting there and I was delighted to discover a really superb example of a Münsterland water castle in excellent condition. It had been given by Bertha van Heek, who died in 1961, to a foundation for German-Dutch friendship and is used for meetings and events. The property came into the hands of the Barons of Wellbeghe in 1282 and the current house, with its moat and gardens, dates from the 16th Century. The park around it is part of the European Heritage Garden Network, although the formal garden within the moated area was only offering some daffodils when I was there.

After enjoying views of the house, I returned to my bicycle and rode in the direction of Steinfurt, which I had visited by car with my friends during my last trip. The road was actually closed as it had been freshly paved but since only the white lines were missing I enjoyed a fast ride to Steinfurt, one of my favourite Münsterland towns. Of course as it was Easter Sunday not much was open and I passed through the impressive old town, stopping only on the outskirts to look at and photograph some very old buildings (including the oldest half-timbered building in Westfalia, which dates to 1380) at the Kommende, which had been set up by the Counts of Steinfurt-Bentheim to settle some of the Knights of St. John who had returned from the Crusades. The town has a remarkable history and there is still a Count occupying the castle. I had photographed the impressive castle and surroundings on my previous visit.

Ignoring my GPS course which would have taken me on the main road back to Laer, I instead took a somewhat meandering course that added a few kilometers. I also thought I would try to get back on the course as I neared Laer, which was a mistake since I ended up on a very small agricultural road followed by no road at all and I had to walk the last 200 m across a field to the main Steinfurter Strasse.

It had been a satisfying ride, even if I had not seen all the castles I had hoped for. I had put in just over 80 kms but without getting lost it would have been quite a bit less! On the next trip I will do my planning a bit more carefully and take the bike route up to Rheine and Bad Bentheim, avoiding main roads.

I was glad that I did the ride on Easter Sunday as Monday dawned cold and wet, with light rain. It was enough to discourage thoughts of more riding so after another fine breakfast, I took my leave of my friends and Carmen dropped me off in Münster at the station for an earlier trip back home.

2012 Brabantse Pijl - La Fleche Brabanonne Photos

2012-04-12T01:25:41Z

24 big photos of the start, break, solo attack, finish and podium at Brabantse Pijl - La Fleche Brabanonne

Sushi of Shiori

2012-04-11T17:50:54Z

Sushi of Siori‘ye gene Londra’da bize güzel mekanlar tavsiye eden arkadaşımız Eytan ile beraber gittik. İçeri girince bu kadar methedilen bir yerde sadece 9 kişinin bayağı dar bir ortamda yemek yediğine aklınız pek ermiyor. Genelde paket ve catering için çalışan bu restoran internette çeşitli sitelerde, Guardian, Time-Out gibi yerlerden aldığı yorumlara göre mükemmel. Biz de denemek için sabırsızlanıyoruz.

Burada farklı olan şey Ala Carte mönü dışında bizim Eytan ile Şef mönüsünü sipariş etmiş olmamız. Bu size en özel şekilde hazırlanmış, farklı balıklar, malzemeler ile yapılan “Omakase” ismi verilen Şef’in mönüsünü sunuyor. İçeriği ve balığına göre 40 GBP ile 70GBP arasında olan bu mönüden biz 50 GBP olanını seçiyoruz.

Bunun dışında Ala Carte mönüsünde istediğiniz gibi farklı Sushi, Sashimi ve Japon yemeklerini söylemeniz mümkün.

Yemeğimiz çok özel bir Tofu çorbası ile başlıyor. Büyük bir parça ve baharatları çok iyi ayarlanmış şekilde geliyor.

Eytan ve diğer adaş arkadaşı (Bir insan aynı anda kaç Eytan ile aynı masada olur o da ayrı ) güzel sunulmuş bir Sake paylaşıyorlar. Biz ise ertesi gün Londra Ultramaratonunu koşacağımdan soğuk içecek ile yetiniyoruz.

Arkasından şefin mönüsü özel bir çorba ile devam ediyor. Miso soup kıvamında ancak daha yoğun ve mantarlı. Porsiyonu küçük ancak bu tadım mönüsü size yavaş ve keyifle bir Japon yemek resitali sunuyor.

Biz bu yemekleri tadarken Sedef’in seçtiği sushi tabağı geliyor. Yılan balığı, Somon ve Tuna balıkları onun seçimi.

Biz çorbamızı bitirince önceden hazırlanmış, güzel ve farklı bir tabakta Sashimi resitali başlıyor. Clam, Somon, ve özel soslu çok ince el işçiliği ve emek ile hazırlanan bu tabak hem görsel hem tat anlamında bir şölen. Olağanüstü keyif alarak kıskanç gözler eşliğinde Eytan ile yemeye çalışıyoruz

Bu sushi resitaline daha fazla dayanamayan diğer arkadaşlar ekstra Sushi ve Sashimi söylemeyi ihmal etmiyorlar.

Ancak gene olanlar oluyor ve bu sefer bize gene özel yapılmış Sushi seti geliyor. Trüf soslu olanı (alt foto – en sağdaki) ile ben gecenin artık tat anlamında noktasına gelmiş olduğumu hissediyorum.

Sonra asma yaprağına sarılı Yılan balığı ve pilav ile beraber buharda pişirilmiş sıcak balığımız geliyor.

Onu ise tek parca Kobe etinden yapılmış küçük bir et ile finalize ediyoruz.

Tatlı olarak herkesin farklı seçeneklerde söylediği sorbeleri tırtıklayarak paylaşıyoruz. Kimse vermeye niyetli değil ancak herkesin gözü birbirinin sorbelerinin tadında. Mango, Yeşil Çay ve bal kabağı…

Karı koca tarafından yönetilen, muhteşem bir Japon kültürü ve yemek zevki sunan bu işletmeyi kesinlikle Londra’ya gelmeden listenize alın. Londra’da paket, hızlı, lüks ve pahalı bir çok Sushi restoranı göreceksiniz ve bulacaksınız. Ancak gerçekten binlerce lira verip Japonyaya gidip tadabileceğiniz kadar kaliteli Sushi yapan bu restoranı bir kere olsun denemenizi öneririm. Ucuz değil ancak özellikle Şefin mönüsü ritueli gerçekten olağan üstü bir yemek keyfi için kesinlikle değer.

Adres: 144 Drummond Street, Euston, London, NW1 2PA
Telephone: 0207 388 9962
Nearest Transport: Euston Square, Warren Street or Euston.
Hours: Tue-Sat 11:30 – 14:30 Tue-Sat 18:30 – 22:00
Web: http://www.sushiofshiori.co.uk

Londra`dan beğendiğimiz Kafe , Pub ve restoranlar / Best Food spots & posts from London

Albion Cafe

2012-04-10T16:37:55Z

Albion Cafe, iki defa gittiğimiz bodrum katında boundary restaurant ve terasınında da Kafe’nın devamını barındıran doğu Londra’da çok güzel bir mekan. Mekanın en güzel tarafı kendi fırınının olması ve harika ekmekler, pizzalar ve börekler yapmaları.

Albion geçtiğimiz dönemlerde bir çok ödül almış kaliteli bir mekan.

Best New Cheap Eats, Time Out Eating & Drinking Awards
Best Restaurant For Breakfast by The Londonpaper Wallpaper*
Design Awards 2010, Best Breakfast.

Fiyatları ne ucuz ne pahalı. Küçük ama doyurucu bir hamu işi ve soğuk ya da sıcak içecek ile 10 pound altına çıkmanız mümkün.

6 kişiden az iseniz rezervasyon yok ancak her daim kalabalık. İki kişi giderseniz biraz kapıda bekleyip isminizi yazdırıp girmeniz aşikar. Kalabalık grup iseniz bekleme süreniz oldukça artar, rezervasyonsuz imkansıza yaklaşır. Özellikle pazar kahvaltı zamanı ve cumartesi akşam üstü çok yoğun.

Her gün sabah sekizden akşam onbir buçuğa kadar açıklar. Mönüde ben yemesemde yanımdaki oturanlardan gördüğüm kadarı ile kahvaltı porsiyonları oldukça doyurucu.

Ayrıca küçük bir şarküteri ve pastane gibi de hizmet veren Albion ’dan alışveriş yapıp oturmadan da çok güzel şeyler almanız mümkün.

Mönüsüne şuradan ulaşabilirsiniz.

Adres : 2-4 Boundary Street, Shoreditch, London E2 7DD
Telefon: 020 7729 1051

İngilterede denediğimiz ve beğendiğimiz diğer restoran, cafe ve pubların incelemeleri:

Bicycling with Bacchus: The Roman Wine Route along the Moselle

2012-04-10T01:00:00Z

At a wine show at the InterContinental in Düsseldorf in November I met, for the second time, the vintner Josef Kranz-Junk and his wife, who live and work in the Moselle wine village of Brauneberg. Although I had never been there, I knew that in Thomas Jefferson’s wine journal he had indicated that he had bought bottles of Riesling from what was claimed, at that time, to be the noblest region in Germany, specifically the Juffer hill across the river from the village. I had managed to buy some Brauneberger Juffer at the Vintages store in Ottawa and had found it to be excellent. This was no fluke as a sampling of Herr Kranz-Junk’s dry Riesling showed and he told us about the area. When he said that it would also be good for cycling and that they also had rooms available, we decided to spend a short holiday there.

Leaving Düsseldorf on Thursday evening and passing through the volcanic region of the Eifel Mountains, a drive of just over two hours brought us to the village on the banks of the Moselle, about 10 kms west of the very famous town and tourist magnet of Bernkastel-Kues. Brauneberg appears to consist only of wine producers and hotel and B&Bs, with a few restaurants and some other necessities. Finding the Kranz-Junk house on Brunnenstrasse was easy and we received a very warm welcome and enjoyed a bottle of the Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett dry Riesling while chatting. The room was simple but very comfortable, and with its own washroom and shower. Needless to say, nights in Brauneberg are pretty quiet, although perhaps all the Riesling helped one to relax.

The view onto Brunnenstrasse, Brauneberg

The next morning was cool and grey but there was no rain, so time to lay out the bike gear and then go for breakfast. Frau Kranz-Junk outdid herself as we were faced with a rather massive breakfast: fresh buns and bread; salmon; coldcuts; three or four kinds of cheese; jams and honey; yogurt; muesli; hard-boiled eggs; fresh strawberries; and tea and coffee. There were no other guests over the Easter weekend but I suspect we would not have had to share anyway. For those looking for a quiet weekend in a friendly atmosphere, there is simply no better value than staying in the country in Germany. At around 30 Euros per person nightly (with breakfast!), it is cheaper than staying at home!

The bridge at Piesport, with Basso

The bikes assembled and it was time to roll out on the Good Friday bike ride, once a tradition that my friend Karl and I once tried to keep of longstanding back in Canada. Riding the main road west out of Brauneberg, we soon found a way to join the Moselradweg that runs directly along the river. The bike path (at least on the south bank of the river) is very well sign-posted and we quietly sped along, passing the villages of Wintrich and Geierslay. A group on racing bikes passed us and I thought it might be a good chance to test my early season condition so I accelerated and easily caught up to them. Well, it seemed easy until I noticed how short my breath was.

Along the Moselradweg in Springtime

We rolled on through Piesport, home of the Goltröpfchen Riesling Kabinett from Franz Reh I remember so well from my youth. The little hotels along the edge of the water were just waking up and umbrellas erected for the not-very-evident sun. Many of the buildings were very substantial, indicative of the prosperity of the region. It has almost no industry to speak of except wineries and tourism.

We rolled into Neumagen-Dhron, one of the most interesting places we saw on the trip. The village claims to be the oldest wine village in Germany (a distinction that several other places claim) and it certainly has a good claim to antiquity. German tribesmen wrecked what was then called Noviomagus Treverorum in 275 AD and a century later the Romans built a big fortress on the site with thirteen towers. Neumagen has been the site of some impressive archaeological finds, including the Neumagen Wine Ship, a Roman grave marker that can be seen in replica in the centre of the village. There is a walking route that takes you around where the various Roman structures, such as the town gates and walls, would have been. And of course there is a really good bakery, which proudly proclaims that after 35 years everything is still made from scratch.

The Roman Wine Ship grave marker, 2nd Century AD

A short ride out of Neumagen the bike path climbs a bit and takes you up into the vineyards. Down below stands a small chapel dedicated to the Martyrs of the Theban Legion, a group of Roman soldiers originally based in Egypt who converted to Christianity en masse and were executed, apparently in what is now Switzerland, for failing to offer a sacrifice to the Emperor Maximian in 286 AD. The story is confusing in the extreme as some accounts say the event happened in Cologne or Trier. Saint Victor, after whom Xanten is named, was supposedly martyred in that town. Anyway, the local Neumagen aristocrats were so taken with the story (their version has the executions in Trier turning the Moselle blood-red all the way to Neumagen) that they had the small chapel near the river built in 1506-1510.

Our route took us opposite Trittenheim, where two towers still stand on either side of the river. They once housed a guide rope for the ferry crossing the river, a common sight once on the bridge-deficient Moselle. The towers date to 1740 but there has only been a bridge over this part of the river for the last century.

The area we were traversing has been marked as the Roman Wine Route and in addition to informative signs we came upon a Roman milestone next to the bike path and then a water basin, with a nice relief of a satyr playing the pipes beside it.

The satyr is the one on the right

Passing along the quiet river, with only the occasional barge on the water and a few other cyclists along the path, we rode past the steep vineyards, bare at this time of year, until we came to Mehring, where we stopped to admire the Villa Rustica, a Roman manor house that was the focal point of what must have been one of the largest estates in the region. It had 34 rooms and there has been a partial reconstruction so that you can see where the baths were, and the storage areas and so forth. The residents enjoyed a high standard of living as gold and silver artifacts were found there during excavations in the 1980s. The manor house was built in the 2nd Century AD and expanded over the next century, until more German tribesman attacked it in 344 AD. They then lived in the ruins until the 5th Century AD when the site was abandoned and then eventually used as a quarry for local builders.

We rode past a statue of St. Francis that was erected in 1802 by local monks to calm the waters of the Moselle for passing sailors but the river looked pretty safe to us. The bike path is very good and almost all paved, with lots of places to stop and sit on a bench and look at the river, sometimes with a Roman bust nearby to keep you company. These are all reproductions as the originals have ended up in museums, such as the one in Trier, marking the Roman occupation of this part of Germany.

Our next stop was Longuich, which features an impressive castle that goes back to 1360 and is a rare example of late Gothic architecture in the countryside. It was converted in the 1980s into its present configuration as a restaurant/wine-tasting place by the family that has owned it for the last six generations.

A short distance away, however, was the Villa Rustica, our next Roman villa. This was smaller than the place in Mehring but still impressive. The bath area, with its cold/warm/hot pools, was particularly well-preserved. The villa also featured heated floors and, the first time I have noticed this, heated walls. The house, constructed also in the 2nd Century AD like the Villa Urbana, possibly belonged to a retired senior Roman administrator from nearby Trier. It too fell victim to Germanic attacks in the 4th Century.

The baths at the Villa Urbana

Having ridden around 45 kms from Brauneberg, it was time to turn around and head back after finding some lunch. We crossed the river and headed east, stopping for lunch at the cyclist-friendly Hotel Zum Fährturm in Mehring, a town that occupies both banks of the river, where I enjoyed a massive Erdinger non-alcoholic beer with my cheese omelette and excellent fries.

We should have crossed back over on the bridge at Mehring and continued on the bikepath we had come in on but with new sights to see we stayed on the north bank. This turned out to be not such a good idea as the bikepath was not well-marked and soon vanished, leaving us to ride the shoulder of the rather busy Bundesstrasse until we could escape back over the Trittenheim bridge to the quieter side.

We rolled back into Neumagen and had a break at the bakery there and then I went looking for the very impressive reconstructed Roman wine ship. Not a grave marker but the real thing which used the grave marker as a model. A typical Roman galley of the 4th Century AD, the original would have been a multi-purpose vessel which not only brought legionnaires into the territories of the German tribesman between the Roman capital in Trier and the Rhine but also would have been used for shipping wine, which came from various productions sites on the Moselle and was blended in Trier, as well as other goods.

The Stelle Noviomagi (“Star of Neumagen”) cost 400,000 Euros to construct and was launched in 2007. It is 18 m in length and can take 50 passengers, although they don’t need to row as there are two diesel engines on the ship. However, rowing is an option and there are trained crews for this. The ship can be chartered for cruises on the river, which must be fun although probably pretty slow as the Stelle Noviomagi does not appear to be built for speed. It really is quite beautiful to look at.

A final 16 km push and we were back at Familie Kranz-Junk, with 90 kms completed and a surprising 500 m vertical. The route is easy to ride and fun for cyclists of all ages and skill levels.

Saturday did not allow a repeat ride as the weather was cold and nasty, so the bikes were packed away, along with some cases of wine, and after another huge breakfast we took our leave of the Kranz-Junks and drove east towards Bernkastel-Kues, but not before crossing the river to stand next to the Juffer and to look at the Roman wine press facility, one of several in the region, where the juice was pressed out and then shipped to Trier.

Although the weather was poor, Bernkastel was already seeing a lot of tourists. It is probably what most people would think of when they think of a perfect German small town, with beautiful half-timbered buildings, lots of wine merchants and more than a few excellent bakeries.

The Café Hansen is one of these and I have stopped in there before to enjoy some wonderfully sinful cake. Nothing is better than a delicious piece of Torte with a fine coffee on a cold and grey day.

Escaping the t-shirt buying hordes in Bernkastel, our last stop of the day with the new thermal spa in Bad Bertrich. The town has been the site of hot spring bathing since Roman times when it was known as Bertriacum but the new spa is quite modern and airy.

The little town reflects a period when the last Elector of Trier, Clemens Wenzeslaus of Saxony, built a small palace as a summer residence and hunting lodge (although he apparently disliked hunting) in the late 18th Century, shortly before Revolutionary France occupied the town for two decades. Clemens Wenzeslaus lived to be 82 and is said to be the inventor of Kalte Ente, a punch consisting of wine and champagne, lemon juice and sugar with ice cubes, which became Americanized in 1937 as Cold Duck.

The Elector's little Schloss

The Vulkaneifel Therme

After enjoying the numerous saunas and the fine indoor and outdoor thermal pool, a two hour drive returned us to Düsseldorf and the end of a fine outing enjoying 20 centuries of German history.

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Amstel Gold Sportif: Getting Really Damp in the Limburger Alps

So, this is what a Qashqai is! They changed the name for Australia since they were worried the Aussies would nickname it "Cash Cow"

German speakers from Australia and Canada meet in the Netherlands!

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The Road To Heaven

Smith and Wollensky

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