Viv has a question about growing berries:

Viv’s Question: My brother needs some “info ” about boysenberry and raspberry, how to plant and care for them. He has some planted, but they are having problems. Something to keep them healthy, or what to give them to make them happy? Anything you can provide will help him.

A. I have this fabulous site from Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service for you to read in depth and print out the pages for him. Here are some portions:

Boysenberry – the berries are large, strongly flavored, soft, and medium to late maturing. When disease free plants are used, Boysenberries may produce well for 4 to 6 years. One selection is thornless, the other has very small thorns.

Cultivated blackberries do best on sandy loam soils with added organic matter. However, they will tolerate a wider range of soil types than will most other fruits. Good soil drainage and 2 1/2 to 3 feet of unrestricted rooting area are necessary for best plant performance. A site with a slight, north facing slope is preferred to help prevent spring frost injury and to protect plants from southwest winds in summer. Additional wind protection may be necessary, because succulent first year canes exposed to strong winds may be blown over and broken from the root system.

The crowns and root systems of blackberries live for many years. However, new canes arise from the crown each year and live for only two years. During the first year, the canes grow to their full height. The second season, these canes bear fruit and die. During their first growing season after planting, erect blackberry plants often produce prostrate to semi-erect canes. Erect canes will be produced in the following years.

Berries should be permanently mulched with about 4 inches of organic material such as pine bark or wheat straw. This mulch will help control weeds, conserve soil and moisture, and prevent winter injury to crowns. Mulching also promotes growth of the extensive fibrous berry root system. Since the need to cultivate for weed control is reduced by the mulch, fewer berry roots are broken, producing fewer unwanted sucker plants between the rows.

After the first year, apply fertilizer to the berry plants at bloom time to stimulate plant growth, increase berry size, and boost total production. A second application of fertilizer should be made following fruit harvest to stimulate vigorous cane growth for next season’s production. Use a total of about 10 pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 10-20-10 or 5 pounds of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row. Apply one-half of the fertilizer at bloom time, and one-half soon after fruit harvest.

First-year plants are allowed to produce as much growth as possible without pruning or training to a trellis. Established plants grow new canes while the old canes are fruiting. During the summer, prune off the last few inches of new canes, leaving them 3 to 3.5 feet tall. This is called “tipping.” Tipping forces the cane to develop lateral shoots from buds near the top portion of the cane. Fruit produced the following year from pruned canes will be at a convenient height for harvest. The fruits will be larger, cleaner, and of better quality than if canes are not pruned, because most of the fruit will be farther from the soil.

http://www.okstate.edu/OSU_Ag/agedcm4h/pearl/hort/frtnuts/f6215.htm

I live in Ohio and just bought 4 blueberry bushes. Can you tell me what kind of ground to plant them in? Is there any thing special I have to do?

A. Soil: Blueberries grown anywhere love an organic, slightly acidic soil, very well-drained, so that the roots breathe well and the water flows downward. Till in before planting to enrich the soil. For existing beds, mulch as described below.

Water: Make sure the plants get enough water. Blueberries form most of their flower buds for next year’s crop from July until October. Water stress will reduce next year’s crop.

Pruning: Once blueberry plants attain the desired size, major pruning should be done immediately after harvest. Confine the cuts to the removal of dead, broken and low-hanging limbs. Large limbs that drooped from an excessively heavy crop should also be headed back. If the plants are taller than can be conveniently harvested, reduce height by selectively removing the older canes.

Fertilizing: On established plants (3 years and older), apply 3 ounces of either 16-4-8, 12-4-8 or ammonium sulfate fertilizer per plant. This application is to encourage good, healthy flower buds for next year’s crop. Many people want to grow all their fruit organically, without applying pesticides. Few fruits can be grown entirely without pesticides. However, the amount and frequency of the use of pesticides can be greatly reduced if you follow a few simple guidelines.

First, select varieties that are recommended for the area.

Second, good sanitation is essential. Remove dead or diseased limbs and fruit as they appear. This may not control the problem completely, but it can help to check the spread.

Third, follow correct cultural practices. Excessive nitrogen fertilizer or heavy pruning will stimulate vegetative growth. The new growth is frequently the site of initial infections of diseases and insects.

Finally, weed control is much easier if plants are mulched. Mulching will also help conserve soil moisture. Remember, pesticides can be valuable tools in growing fruit, but a little common sense and fast action can help cut down on the need for spraying. A number of small fruits have excellent ornamental characteristics, at least in the eyes of a fruit enthusiast.

Above edited from: Sid Mullis, University of Georgia Extension Service office in Richmond County.

Give them full sun for most of the day. Fertilize them in the early spring as buds break. Do not feed heavily. I think for a couple of years you want to let your plants establish a good root system so plucking the flowers off would be okay, and then in the 3rd or 4th year allowing them to fruit.

Mulch heavily in late fall and again in early spring, with grass clippings/leaves [especially acidic Oak]/pine needles, which reduce the soil pH, which is very good!] Mulching in this manner helps acidify the soil, helps improve moisture retention, and ‘feeds’ the plants, as well.

Make sure not to disturb the roots, as this seems to set the plants back. Better to mulch heavily and gently pull the weeds than to cultivate as the roots are very sensitive to the soil being worked.

Whatever you do, stay away from the Aluminum sulfate some garden centers/nurseries sell as a blueberry fertilizer/soil acidifier. If you MUST do something further to lower soil pH, get some iron sulfate. Fertilizing with MirAcid should help also.

A. Plant black and purple raspberries with one plant per hill. Thin all but 7 or 8 of the strongest and thickest stems as the new plants grow. Either after harvest or the following spring, prune off close to the ground those canes that have borne fruit.

If waiting until spring, prune before the buds begin to swell but after danger of frost has passed. In the summer top the first-year canes to encourage a strong plant with fruitful side branches. Top new canes of black raspberries when they reach 24″ tall by cutting or snapping off the top 2-4″ growth.

Repeat with purple raspberries when the canes approach 30″ tall. During the following dormant season, cut back the side branches on new fruiting canes to increase berry size. On black raspberries shorten the laterals until they contain 8-12 buds or are 6-10″ long. Prune purple raspberries, which are more vigorous, back to 11-16 buds. Then cut back any spindly or short laterals.

Ideally the plant should have 4-5 strong fruiting canes remaining. Use the same procedures described for black and purple raspberries for red raspberries but eliminate the summer topping. Topping reduces yields of red raspberries.

These raspberries normally do not produce any side branches because the canes are not topped to encourage branching. Grow red raspberries in a hedgerow and do not let the row spread wider than 18″. Thin individual canes by cutting them at ground level so they are spaced 6-10″ apart.

Leave the largest diameter canes which are the most productive. After the harvest remove canes that have borne fruit. During the dormant season, head back canes growing within a wire support by one quarter of their length.

If there is no support, keep the canes at about 3′ tall.

Treat everbearing cultivars similarly, but leave the first-year canes that have just fruited intact in the fall. They will fruit again in summer after which they can be removed.

When planting blackberries in a hedgerow, restrict upright cultivars to three or four canes per plant and cut or pull out the rest. Allow 12-18 shoots per foot with trailing types. Prune blackberries the same as black raspberries with one exception: Leave laterals on second-year canes 12-18″ long.

Thin trailing blackberries to 7 or 8 canes per plant by removing unwanted canes at ground level. Shorten the canes to about 5′ long and tie to a stake or trellis. Omit the summer topping.

On upright-growing blackberries top new shoots back to 30-36″. Cut or pull out excess sucker shoots during the summer or the plant will develop into an unruly thicket. Like the other bramble fruits, these berries are biennial and require annual pruning.

Support the canes on a 36″ wire stretched between two poles. In spring thin all but 5 of the first-year canes and remove the old fruiting canes. Let the new canes grow on the ground until they exceed 36″. Then tie them to the support and head them just above the wire to encourage strong lateral branches.

The following spring cut the laterals to 18″; they will fruit later in the summer. Remove fruiting canes at ground level after harvest. Each type of bramble has a unique growth pattern that needs an individual pruning technique.

To understand how to prune brambles such as raspberries and blackberries, realize that these are biennial producers. Each spring new shoots arise from the crown but do not flower or bear fruit until the second year. Cut these canes back to the base when they die after fruiting. Unpruned plants develop into a thicket that gives the name bramble true meaning.

There is an exception to this life cycle. Canes of everbearing brambles produce a crop late in the first summer and repeat with another crop in midsummer of the second year before they die.

Assistance from: http://www.gardenadvice.com

An organic vegetable garden sounds ecological, rewarding, healthy but challenging. The cultivation process as such extends over several seasons, but when results finally appear, the homegrown veggies will be the tastiest you’ve ever had.

From a technological point of view, organic gardening is a return to traditions and to the old agricultural practices present in any culture worldwide. Click through here for extra information about garden shears .

The size of the organic vegetable garden is not important: it can even range from a few feet on the house roof or balcony to several acres. The first difficulty one may encounter in the attempt to start the cultivation of the plants is the crisis of organic seeds.

The thing is that in order to have a real organic vegetable garden, you have to begin with seeds that are completely free of all toxic residues. Therefore, ask around in your town or order them on the Internet. The benefits of an organic vegetable garden are manifold.

First of all when there are no pesticides or herbicides used in the plant cultivation, the crops will not suffer because of the chemicals, the soil keeps its properties for several years and the specific fauna will contribute to the regeneration of the garden. Furthermore, the organic vegetable garden has the advantage of dealing with the needs of the family in a very safe, cheap and easy way. In caseyou run a farm in parallel with an organic vegetable garden things get even more profitable. You can get extra worthwhile info about lawn and garden tools here.

The manure from the animals can be used as a natural fertilizer that makes the crops even more profitable. Moreover, everything one needs for an organic vegetable garden should be available from local stores; the costs are definitely not high and the necessary items come for very decent prices. Don’t ignore the tips available in gardening books because lots of the tradition is lost and we need to revive it.

Consider the following example here: think of the fact that corn and beans grown together as very practical; you won’t need any sticks for the beans because they will climb on the corn stalks. You can find lots of additional worthwhile info relating to garden hoe here.

The seeds, the soil and the organic compost will all play an important role in the evolution of the organic vegetable garden. Do not overlook any of these aspects and your home production will be a success and a reward for all the work involved in the process.

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Dave’s Garden: Gardening Tomatoes

I am sure you have tasted store bought tomatoes but have you tasted fresh tomatoes directly from a home garden. In my books there is just no comparison. The supermarket tomato just doesn’t cut it when it comes to flavour.

I kind of forgot about how awesome home grown tomatoes are until my wife and I planted some a couple of years ago and then there was no turning back. We had to keep growing our own but more.

Growing Great Tomatoes

Summer has gone into hybernations now for this year but we are planning now for next year so that we have about 10 times the amount of tomatoes we had last year. The reason…

… we want to be able to share some as that makes us feel great but more than that we want to can some tomatoes.

I eat about a half can of tomatoes a day, sometimes we eat an entire can of tomatoes but I would much prefer to go downstairs and get a bottle of our own tomatoes.

Highlights From Dave’s Garden Tomatoes Video

• Dave shows a store bought tomato and then explains why it’s not the tomato for you. I have eaten enough store bought ones to know I agree whole heartedly with Dave.
• Don’t expect to throw tomato seeds on the ground and have a great crop of tomatoes.
• Dave covers how to start your tomatoes from seed and tells us when we should start them. This is where I messed up two years and ended planting everything about a month later than I should have.
• Know your last frost date, ours is usually about June 10th, and then go back about 6 to 8 weeks before that date to plant your tomato seeds.

Learning how to grow from seeds is great and saves us a lot of money each year.

See more great videos on my Backyard Gardening YouTube Channel.

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Whilst most people tend to go for the so called modern and trendy look of having the outside of their home fully tiled or cemented, it still does not compare to the beauty of having a nice beautiful green lawn growing outside your home. Whilst it does require care and maintenance but the having a natural environment around your home is good for you and your family.

Some interesting grass seed ideas that might be of interest to you are: tips for planting grass seeds cheap grass seeds hybrid bermuda grass seeds

I am sure that you know that there are various kinds of lawn and that the one that you choose will be determined by a number of things. The things to think about are all related to the climatic condition of the area that you live in. The thing is that different kinds of lawn will respond differently to the different environments.

You have the type of lawn that grows very well in sunny and light conditions; and you will come across one that requires a much cooler environment. So if you want to cut down on the stresses of maintaining your lawn choose a type that is well suited to growing in your area. You should be able to regulate the amount of water and sun that the lawn is exposed to.

The sun should be enough for it to grow and be kept warm and the shade should be enough to keep it from drying. Before planting your lawn you need to make sure the ground is cleared of weeds and thick bladed grass and any other thing that might be growing on it. Try and make sure everything is removed right up to the root. Leaving bits of root in the ground will result in whatever it is you left growing and giving you problems in looking after your lawn.

You should be able to get the right grass seeds at a suitable nursery or general dealer within your area. Once the grass has fully developed it’s just a matter of putting the lawn mower to it after that, nothing strenuous.

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If you like cultivating your own herbs, flowers and vegetables, a window greenhouse would be a great idea for you. It’s not necessary to wait until summertime to enjoy fresh fruit and fragrant flowers, they are available all year long. You can easily transform most windows in your house into a miniature greenhouse, but kitchen windows tend to be the most popular option. Unlike garden greenhouses, the appeal of greenhouse windows is that they do not need a lot of wall space and still supply sunlight for your plants.

A greenhouse window is square in shape and is specifically made to protrude from the house in which it is installed. It comprises a roof that inclines down from the back end and also has front and side walls. You’ll likely want to consider getting a greenhouse window which provides shelves that are adjustable. You’ll need to choose between vinyl and aluminum when you are putting your mini greenhouse together.

Condensation is more likely to occur in windows made of aluminum instead of vinyl. Since vinyl does not have as much conductivity as aluminum, there is more window heat. To add strength, vinyl greenhouse windows usually have aluminum frames. These windows require very little upkeep. Aluminum greenhouse windows normally possess sturdy and heavy outsides and are beautifully teamed with interiors that are solid wood. Powder coated aluminum exterior surfaces require hardly any maintenance. These two kinds of windows typically have rounded rims for safety and also look very stylish.

The style should let in enough light for your plants, hence take care to select the right site to ensure optimum sunlight. Greenhouse windows hooked to the east or south side of a home produce the perfect utilization of natural sun, assuming you are in the northern hemisphere. Remember that the landscape around your house can make a difference in the amount of sunlight your greenhouse gets.

When considering whether to change a particular window into a greenhouse window, the amount of sunlight it receives throughout the day is a main consideration. If the window you have in mind doesn’t have sufficient sunlight, you can use fluorescent lights too. That kind of defeats the purpose of a greenhouse window, however they can be a benefit on overcast days.

Installing a greenhouse window allows you to both open up the space of a room in addition to bringing in extra light. You will be able to enjoy fresh herbs to complement your dinners, and breathe in the fabulous aromas and gorgeousness of plants all year long. These benefits show the appeal of adding a windowsill greenhouse to your house.

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It does not matter if you have a big or a small garden, most people like to have fresh herbs. Having a natural supply of herbs is wonderful for cooking, grilling and even barbecuing. And with the right herb garden layout it also looks wonderful in your garden. Before you can harvest those delicious herbs you need to consider a few aspects of herb garden layout for an effective and sustainable growth of herbs.

Natural elements to consider

For your herb garden layout, it is important to effectively plan and manage the natural elements involved in your garden. The herb garden layout should integrate nicely into the existing garden layout. However keep in mind what conditions the herbs need (sun, shade, moisture etc.). If you do this, you can successfully create a herb garden layout that will give you fresh herbs all year round.

When you are creating a herb garden layout within your existing garden layout you should consider the characteristics of the particular spot you picked:

Determine the type of soil in your garden:

* Sandy
* Sandy loam
* Loam
* Clay loam
* Clay
* Silty loam
* Silt

Determine the Soil pH:

* Acidic (<7.0)
* Neutral (7.0)
* Alkaline (>7.0)

And don’t forget:

* lighting coverage
* irrigation
* possible threats

These are the things you should consider for your integrated herb garden layout. This will determine the type of herbs you can place in your existing garden.

For lighting and watering you should consider the following for a plan for your herb garden layout.

A good way to grow a healthy herb garden is in raised vegetable garden beds but you must also consider the lighting coverage wherein your herbs are placed. The plants that require more sunlight should be placed in a region that is constantly or largely lighted. You should also be aware of the watering conditions because that must also be included in the outdoor herb garden layout.

The author of this article, Hank Gordon, writes at his website www.GardenersInfoPoint.com about Drip irrigation system and for example the Raised Vegetable Garden Beds .?

Here is what our garden area looked like before we put a little work into it and started our first vegetable garden.

The ducks were landing right in the water. I almost tried fishing here.

Vegetable Gardening Tips

When my wife and I started our vegetable garden we were pretty green.

Our first decision was where to put our veggie garden. I wasn’t even concerned with the size, other than it was going to be very small. I guess it was more of a test to see if we could really do it.

Tip One: Location, Location, Location

Yeah location, it’s about real estate, the best real estate for our garden was going to be where the best sunlight was.

I was fortunate to learn this lesson before we ever started our garden. I started with planting a few raspberry plants along the side of our garage. Well it took me a while to clue in but the further summer moved forward the more in the shade our raspberry plants were.

I am digging them up and moving them to the other side of the garage now.

That lesson was easy to learn and now I try to think ahead.

Note: If you choose container gardening you can move your containers around if you start right and don’t go with huge container that are going to stay in one spot.

The only spot that we had available in our backyard was a really low spot. And we got a lot of rain that really tested the drainage. It was actually a record rain fall in our New Brunswick city.

When planning your location you want to take into account any trees or buildings that would over-shadow your garden as summer moves on. That is what limited our choices.

Tip Two: Prepare Your Soil For Proper Drainage

This was the second problem we had to over come. Like I said the area we chose is like a pond in the spring but we did a pretty good job preparing the soil with peatmoss and fresh top soil.

Each year we will add more top soil and peatmoss until we increase the height of our garden. It started out as a raised bed but with all the rain and settling it is now almost back to the level it started at.

We are actually thinking of getting a truck load of top soil specifically for the garden, just to raise that part of the yard.

You can pretty much over come most obstacles but if your garden doesn’t drain you will drown your veggies and if you don’t get enough sunlight you will be drowning weak little plants. Either way the outcome isn’t great.

So be sure you follow these vegetable garden tips before you start digging.

We have some nice Maple trees alone our street that change to autumn colours early most years so it’s a nice way to start my daily walks.

It usually stays like this for a few weeks unless we get windy weather like we had yesterday. I am almost hesitant to go for my walk today. I am afraid the fun is over for this year and it’s only Nov. 1st.

Well enough getting down over it we will have it all again next year won’t we.

This next picture is of a plant I don’t recall seeing here before but perhaps I have and just never seen it at this time of year. If you know what it is please chime in with a comment and let me know please.

I went for a long time walking by a house that had a Japanese Maple in their yard because it was stuck in a corner which is hard to see from the street if you aren’t on the right angle.

They are a very gorgeous tree so I got as close as I could without going onto their property and snapped a shot.

I see a lot of colours at this time of year but not always great looking trees but this Maple turned a bright yellow and I managed to get a picture before the winds cleaned it all off.

You can see in the back right of the picture to the left, that some of the maples are already almost stripped of leaves. Caught it at the perfect moment.

A lot of our flowers have gone for this year but there are still a lot on my walk that looked great up until just a few days ago when we got a few days of frost in a row.

It only takes me about 40 minutes to complete my walk but in that time I get exercise for both body and mind returning home refreshed and ready to take on another day of blogging.

Around the corner from our house there is a paved path that cuts across about 5 or 6 blocks. It’s great to use this path instead of the sidewalks.

It’s fenced on both sides and has vines that cover the wire fences along the path. They make great cover and give some privacy to the home owners but man when fall comes those vines change colour. I could just sit on that path and stare at them forever. Well maybe only until all their leaves fall off, which probably happened in the wind yesterday.

The image above is actually three images of the same section of fence. You can see how green an lush it is during the entire summer, then once it gets hit with a little cold wind in the fall it loses the green but still looks great and then over night it will change to the colours at the bottom of the picture.

There are bushes that are hardly noticeable all summer long but as soon as the temperature drops they turn into bushing that look like they are a blaze.

It looks kind of big in the picture but they don’t seem to get much more than 3 to 4 feet tall. I think it would make a great hedge around our property. I just need to figure out what it is.

One tree or shrub that we want to have in both back corners of our yard is a hydranga. They really draw the eye for most of the summer but once fall hits they start turning from bright white to awesome shades of pink. The picture below kind of shows how they change.

They are sort of the same colours as the snowball tree gets in the fall but I find the snowball tree, when it’s smaller tends to fall over with all the weight of those snowballs. The to look great for most of the winter. Or until one of our wind or ice storms strip them clean.

I remember living in Ontario but back then I was more interested in girls and didn’t take time to stop and smell the roses. Once I moved to New Brunswick I found the girl I would marry and then had plenty of time to watch the scenery.

Drip watering system is nothing but an irrigation system that helps you distribute the required level of water to your plans which is conducive to their growth and development. It is quite easy to make a drip watering system on your own using some handy irrigation supplies.

How Drip Watering System Work?

Drip watering system facilitates releasing a small amount of water that reaches directly to the root-base of the plant. So, the plants may get right level of soaking. Besides this, it facilitates having proper humidity level in the soil which is beneficial for the growth of the plant.

Other irrigation systems like sprays or flood irrigation offer large amount of water that often go wasted or evaporated. Drip watering can save water remarkably offering desired level of irrigation to the plant. So, drip watering can be an ideal irrigation method that anyone can make use of it.

Where to Use Drip Watering System?

Drip watering system is really spreaking a micro-irrigation which is handy to use. You can make employ this irrigation system for your houseplants. You can also make use it with a view to water your garden to keep your lawn green!

How to Prepare a Drip Watering System?

1. You will have to buy a drip watering kit with sections of pipe for preparing an irrigation system.

2. You need to get the pipe punctured with some small holes.

3. Now you can connect the pipe with your water source.

4. Let the low-pressure water run through your assembled pipe.

5. A small amount of water will drip from each punctures to the root-level of the plant.

6. You can increase/decrease the water flowing through your pipe system

You can also make use of old water hose to create your irrigation systems. Punctuate in the body of your old hose and put the cap on the one end so that enough pressure is created to expel the water out from the holes. Attach the end of your hose to the outdoor spigot and turn on the tap so that it can flow the water through holes.

Drip watering or drip irrigation system makes use of little water that reached the root-level without being wasted or evaporated. Drip watering method is convenient for both for your garden plants and for houseplants because it can save your money as well as water.

Well as new gardeners our first year of tomato growing has ended. We did great and by applying a few helpful tomato growing tips we will do even better next year, maybe we will have enough to try canning.

Last year I thought it was too early to start my tomatoes indoors and put it off for a bit. Well before I knew it too much time had pasted and I ended up buying my tomato plants again.

Our biggest error last season was to plant our tomatoes way too close together and missed out on a much bigger harvest.

Here are a few changes we will make for next season:

Firstly we realize that growing great tomatoes doesn’t just happen by accident, usually.

1. Start Your Tomatoes Indoor Early. This will give the plants a chance to grow and strengthen before we put them out in the yard. Be sure not to crowd the seeds and if you do then be sure you pluck out the extra plants so that only one or two per pot are left. They will get much healthier with elbow room.

2. Tomatoes Love Light. We didn’t plan our locations very well and didn’t plan for the angle of the sun light. The tomatoes that we planted in full sun did awesome and those that got blocked by our huge trees did okay, but not great like those in the direct sun light.

3. Proper Water And Drainage. Again we learned from our mistakes so you don’t have to. The tomato plants we planted at one end of our garden did great while those at the other end did poorly.

This was our first year at gardening. Our yard is low and the ground clay. We dug it up and put in lots of peatmoss and top soil but one end was still lower than the other, by enough to get flooded over and over. Next year we will be sure to have our tomatoes where the ground will drain well.

4. Put Your Tomato Plants Outside In The Day Time. Of course you don’t want to put your tomato plants out when it’s still to cold but on those day when it’s nice out put them out so they can get adjusted to the climate. It will strengthen your plants if you allow the wind or breeze to blow on them to give them strong stocks.

5. Re-Plant Your Tomato Plants Deeper. Growing your tomatoes from seed can lead to shallow roots so when you transplant them outside be sure to bury them deeper so they will grow a stronger root system which will make a stronger healthier plant that will produce many times more tomatoes.

These are only a few short tips, but they will definitely help you. Learn more about growing great tomatoes, things like mulching, removing leaves and pruning.