What is an Estate Sale Company?

An estate sale is where a company comes into your home and evaluates the estate you are interested in selling. After you hire the company they will sort, clean, organize, research, price, market/advertise, and sell your collection and furnishings from your home. If there are any items that did not sell, the company will remove them and either dispose of them or donate what they can to charity (with your permission).  Some companies will also clean the house, garage and yards, so the property is ready for sale.

Why should you have an Estate sale?

There are many reasons you might want to have an estate sale. Here are some of the more common ones:

• Liquidation of a passed away loved one’s estate.
• Down sizing your collection.
• Divorce.
• Required to sell due to tax related issues or court order.
• You have a house full of items to sell and need help doing it.

As an appraiser I get asked many questions, one common question is why should we have an estate sale rather then doing it as a garage sale ourselves?

Here are some reasons why you should have an estate sale rather than a garage sale:

• You may not know the value of the items you are selling. This can lead to items being sold under market value.
• You may throw something away thinking it was trash.  Items may appear to be trash but can hold value.  It is always best to let the experts determine what is valuable and what is not.
• Estate sale companies do all the work for you
  • Clean
  • Itemize
  • Set up the sale
  • Run the sale
  • Market and Advertise
  • Process all sales transactions (they also except most forms of payments.)
  • Insure
  • Higher values for your items
  • Staff to help answer all the questions potential buyers may have.

How does an estate liquidator get paid?

Estate liquidators take a commission of the net proceeds of the sale. The percentage is similar to what an auction would charge (10-25%).  In most cases you never have to out of pocket any money.

Do’s and Dont’s of and Estate Sale:

A successful estate sale depends on many factors. Here are some do’s and dont’s when having an estate sale.

• Almost all estate liquidators have one common request: Don’t throw away anything at all and let them do the dirty work.
• Don’t clean the items, the estate specialist will do all of this for you. Cleaning an item can damage it if not done properly.
• You can have an estate sale for many reasons other than a family member passing away.
• Make sure to take the items you and your family would like to keep. If you find that there is something in the sale you wish to keep, all you have to do is tell the people handling the sale and it will be removed.

Estate Sale FAQ’s:

Q:) Do you have to have a death in the family in order to have an estate sale?

A:) No, You can have an estate sale as long as you are in possession of an entire estate full of items. This should be a large collection worthy of selling to collectors and dealers.

Q:) How do I choose an estate specialist to help me?

A:) When you are interviewing different people to handle your sale, keep in mind these people will be handling your family heirlooms and treasures. If you feel you can trust them alone in your house and that you can communicate openly with them about your wishes, you are probably safe to hire them. Make sure to check for licenses and or references prior to making your choice. Many estate specialists have just started out and may be hard to track down for payment. You will know when you have met the right person for your sale. Make sure you feel comfortable with the company you hire.

Q:) What do you need to do to prepare for an estate sale?

A:) Don’t throw away anything at all and let them do the dirty work.

Q:) How long will it take to have an estate sale?

A:) Usually takes a full seven days from start to finish. This includes sorting, cleaning, tagging, staging the sale, pricing, marketing, and selling all items.

Q:) How will I know what sold and for how much?

A:) A reputable and trustworthy company will give you a complete itemized list of the sale and items sold at the end of the liquidation. This list should be typed and easy to understand.

Q:) What happens if there is hidden money, photos, love letter, or personal papers found inside the house?

A:) Any reputable and responsible Estate Specialist will simply set these things aside, along with anything else that seems too personal to sell without permission. They will usually have the family come and retrieve the items or will mail it to you upon your request.

Q:) Who pays the sales tax for the purchases made by the general public, who do not hold re-sale numbers or tax ID numbers?

A:) Some liquidators charge sales tax per item, but most pay all the taxes themselves.

Q:) How does the liquidator get paid from the sale?

A:) Most estate liquidators work on a commission from the net proceeds of the estate sale itself. You should not have to pay any money up front or out of pocket.

Q:) What if you decide you want to keep something out of the sale?

A:) A reputable liquidator will allow you to simply ask and the liquidator should comply. Some estate liquidators have a clause in their contract saying you must pay for any items you decide to keep after signing the contract. Try to make sure you take the items you want before you sign the contracts.

Q:) Do I have to have antiques or collectibles to have an estate sale?

A:) No you do not have to have antiques or collectibles to have and estate sale.

Always remember there are some things that should be left up to the specalists. If you are going to have an estate sale I reccommend using an estate liquidation specialist. If you have any questions make sure to ask a specialist. Don’t be afride to ask questions as this is one of the best ways to protect yourself when it comes to antiques and collectibles.

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How old does an item have to be to be an antique?

There is a great debate about how old an item has to be to be considered an antique. The standard is 100 or more years. There are some antique dealers out there that like to say 50 years. This is so they can sell more items as antiques and charge higher values.

Is my item valuable because it is an antique?

Just because the item is an antique does not mean it has a high value. Age is one of the many factors in determining an antique value. Here is a short list of factors that make an antique valuable:

• The age of the antique
• The condition of the antique
• Rarity of the antique
• Market demand for the antique
• Maker of the antique
• Quality of the antique

How can I tell if my antique is real?

Trying to determine the authenticity of an antique can be very hard. Most popular antiques went into reproduction as soon as they hit the market.  Even if the item is from the correct time period it can still be a reproduction. Most of the time the term period piece is used to represent this. Research is one of the best tools you can use to determine the authenticity of an antique. If you have any uncertainty about the authenticity of an antique I would suggest finding a specialist in that field to help.

How does the condition of an item affect its value?

There are many answers to this question. Damage can have a dramatic effect on the value of an antique. If an antique is very rare, minor damage is going to have less of an effect on the value than if the same damage was on a mass produced antique that can be found rather easily. With common antiques minor damage usually has about a 25-50% effect on the value.

Where do appraisers get there information for an appraisal?

We get our information from many sources. Here are some of the resources we use:

• Comparable sales over the last 5 years
• Past auctions
• Antique retail dealers
• eBay
• Antique trade magazines
• A network of appraisers and specialist

Should I clean my antique?

Cleaning an antique can cause damage. This damage may not be seen right away. Before cleaning an antique make sure you research the best method you should use to clean your antique. The recommended way to do this is to have your antique cleaned professionally or to ask a specialist. Many cleaners today can have harsh affects on antiques. Dusting your antiques and general cleaning will help protect your antique items and their values. For more information about cleaning your antiques read my article How to Care for Antiques and Collectibles

What is the best way to sell my antique collection?

The answer to this question varies a lot depending on the situation of the sale. When selling antiques you have many options. Depending on your situation and the amount of work you want to do will determine what your best option is. Here is a list of places to sell your antiques:

• Auction houses
• eBay
• Consignment with an antique store
• Private sale
• Newspaper or online ad service such as craigslist

Also see my articles on Choosing the Right Auction House and Auction houses vs eBay

When collecting antiques your best tool is knowledge. Doing some research can save you time and money. I hope this has answered some of the questions you may have about antiques. If you have further questions feel free to leave a comment.

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Antique Terms:

1. Alabaster: A fine grained stone that is usually gray or white in color and is slightly translucent. This is used a lot in lamp shades.
2. Armoire: A large, often ornate cabinet or cupboard with shelving, which stands alone.
3. Art Deco: Named after an exposition held in Paris in 1927. Art Deco items are angular with simple lines. The art deco period was during the 1930’s. This style is currently making a strong come back amongst collectors.
4. Art Nouveau: The French term for new art, stared in the 1890s and continued into the 1930’s. Characterized by stylized natural forms and sinuous outlines. Using such objects as leaves, vines and flowers.
5. Backstamp: In pottery, china and porcelain backstamps are the identifying mark, name stamp, or signature of a manufacture. This is normally found on the underside of the piece. The backstamp may be stamped, decaled, or cut (incised) into the piece.
6. Buffet: A 16th-century serving or side table, frequently with two or three tiers.  In the late 17th and 18th-centuries buffets had cupboards beneath the serving surface and an elaborate superstructure above.
7. Cabriole: A leg with a double curve. piece of furniture shaped in two curves; the upper arc is convex, while lower is concave; the upper curve always bows outward, while the lower curve bows inward. The axes of the two curves must lie within the same plane
8. Champlevé: This is a technique for enameling a decoration , this is where the metal base is channeled or cut out to receive the enamel.
9. Cloisonné: This is a style and technique used to apply enamel on metal objects.
10. Credenza: An early Italian serving table or sideboard with canted corners. A credenza usually has two or three cupboards in the base and drawers in the frieze.
11. Cross banding: This is where a strip or band of veneer laid across the wood grain.
12. Gilding: The methods for gilding wood has  remained unchanged. The main techniques are still in current use today:

• Water Gilding is when gold leaf is applied using water as the agent to cause the gold to ’stick’ to the gesso, some of the gilding is then burnished.
• Oil Gilding is the application of fine sheets of gold leaf on to a surface with an oil size.  This is a longer lasting process but is less lustrous.
• Gilt-metal and gilded metal are achieved by fire-gilding (also known as mercury gilding), when an amalgam of mercury is applied to the metal to be gilded, which fuses when heated.

13. Hallmark: A hallmark is an official mark or series of marks applied (Usually stamped) to items made of precious metals — platinum, gold, silver and in some nations, palladium. The term hallmark can also refer to any distinguishing characteristic or trait.
14. Inlay: Is a technique used with furniture and ceramics. This is where part of a surface is removed and replaced with a contrasting material.
15. Louis XIII: Pertaining to the styles in France 1610-1643.
16. Louis XIV: Pertaining to the styles in France 1660-1710.
17. Louis XV: Pertaining to the styles in France 1715-1774.
18. Louis XVI: Pertaining to the styles in France 1774-1792.
19. Marquetry: Is inlaid veneers that are fitted together to form a design or picture that is then used to ornament furniture
20. Parquetry: Is inlaid veneers that are fitted together to form a geometrical pattern.
21. Quartering / Quarter Veneer: This is where veneer is cut and laid in four pieces, usually with grain at right angles. This is frequently found on early English pieces from the end of the 17th century.
22. Queen Anne Style: Was from 1720-1750. This style brought abrupt changes in the furniture world. It was simple with grace, less bulky and blocky, curved started to appear, pad feet and the famous cabriole leg was introduced. Secret drawers where introduced the highboys had domed bonnets. The hardware used was larger bail pulls with escutcheons. Woods for this period were walnut, cherry and maple.
23. Sconce: A decorative wall bracket for candles or electric lights.
24. Vernis Martin: Is a term used to describe a special varnishing technique perfected by the Brothers Martin in the 1730’s.
25. William and Mary: Was from 1690-1720. This style was influenced by the Dutch. This time period lead to roll ball syndrome with fat wooden balls on everything they could put them on. This was when gate leg tables, the first high chest, slant top, and upholstered easy chairs where introduced. The William and Mary style used burled veneers (fancy grained wood like burled walnut). They also had tear drop pulls Spanish feet, and were mainly made of walnut.

This is just a short list of the many terms used in the antique industry. I hope these terms help you in your hunt for antiques and collectibles. If you have an antique term you would like to share please leave it in the comment section below.

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Josiah Wedgwood marked all of his designs with a signature to identify the piece he created. This helps to verify that these pieces of Wedgwood are not a copy. This also makes it easy to date these pieces of Wedgwood accurately to the month and year it was produced. Many Wedgwood reproducers have gone to enormous lengths to falsely copy these marks. There are many newer pieces of Wedgwood china on the market that looks like antique Wedgwood China.

When buying Wedgwood or any antique from an online auction or store use caution. Antique Wedgwood China has become a popular item and is highly reproduced. Uninformed buyer may think they are getting a bargain on an antique piece of Wedgwood, when in fact they are buying a reproduction.

There are many well known collections of antique Wedgwood China worth millions of dollars. This depends on a providence of the collection i.e. the original owner, Condition of the collection and how complete the collection is.

One of the most famous  Wedgwood collections was once owned by the Queen of England. This collection has been meticulously maintained, passed down through the generations of the royal family and currently on display in London. This collection is considered priceless, irreplaceable, and one of a kind.

Do you have a Wedgwood fact you would like to add? Please leave a comment below.

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Here is some basic information about wood:

There are two kinds of wood, soft and hard:

• Soft wood is a supple wood
• Hard wood is a dense wood

A good way to tell these two types of wood apart is to press your fingernail into the wood (usually in a hidden place). If the wood is a soft wood your fingernail will leave an indention. If the wood is a hard wood your fingernail will leave no mark.

Wood has two kinds of grain, a close grain and a coarse grain:

• Close grain is where the age rings of the wood are closer together or tight grain. This gives the wood a smooth or fine appearance.
• Coarse grain is where the age rings of the wood are far apart or open grain. This gives the wood grain an uneven appearance.

Many times lighter woods (elm, maple or oak) are stained to look like darker woods such as mahogany or rosewood.

There are some woods that are more valuable than others. This is due to the rarity or availability of the wood. Wood that have to be imported cost much more then wood found native to a country.

Valuable Wood:

• Mahogany
• Rosewood
• Burl Walnut
• Fire side Walnut
• Circassian Walnut

Less Valuable Wood:

• Elm
• Pine
• Oak
• Maple
• Spruce

Types of Wood:

Mahogany is a hard wood that has a close grain. Mahogany is native to South America, North America and the West Indies. Mahogany was popular in England during the mid 18^th century. Mahogany was used to make fine furniture during this time period. Red and Brown are two common colors of mahogany.

Oak is a hardwood that has a coarse grain. Oak is native to North America and Europe. In the 17^th century Europe started to use oak to make furniture.

Walnut is a hardwood that has a close grain. Walnut is native to North America and Europe. The colors of walnut can vary from a light walnut to a rich golden brown color. There are also special types of walnut including burled (closed scrolling grain), circassian walnut, and American fireside.

Rosewood is a hardwood that has a close grain. Rosewood is native to India, West Indies, and South America. Rosewood got it’s name because of the rose scent the wood gives off when cut. Rosewood can easily be confused with mahogany. When you look closely at rosewood you will see fine black or white rings. Rosewood is also heavier than mahogany.

Pine is a soft wood with a straight grain. It is pale and is knotted. Pine is native to North America and Europe. Pine was frequently used to make furniture that was intended to be painted or veneered.

Maple is a hardwood that has a coarse grain. Maple is native to Europe and North American. Maple was frequently veneered. Another type of maple is bird’s eye maple.

Elm is a hardwood that has a coarse grain. Elm is native to North America and Europe Like maple, elm was frequently veneered.

Veneer:

Veneering is when thin sheets of a more valuable wood are glued to a less valuable wood. This made it so furniture makers could provide more affordable furniture to more customers.  Veneered furniture  has a lower value  than a piece that is made of solid wood.

Tips for determining if the wood is veneered:

• Look at the edges of the wood and if you see a seam then it is veneered. If the edge is seamless then it is solid wood.
• 17^th century veneer was hand cut and may be uneven.
• 19^th century veneer was machine cut and are very thin and even.

Inlay, Parquetry, and Marquetry

• Marquetry: This is a technique where various types of wood are applied to the surface to produce a picture. Frequently used shapes where flowers and birds.  Many exotic wood such as satinwood, ebony and tulipwood were used for marquetry.

• Parquetry: Parquetry and marquetry are similar. The difference between the two is the subject matter. Parquetry is veneer in geometric patterns. This was commonly used for chess and backgammon boards.

• Inlay is a decorative trimming where materials other than wood is inlaid into wood. Common materials used for inlays:

• Ivory
• Bone
• Mother of Pearl
• Brass
• Tortoise Shell

Gilding:

• Gilding is where gold leaf is applied with a plaster like substance to wood. This was very popular in France.

To find out more about antique furniture and time period that a certain type of wood was used please see Antique furniture styles, the last 200 years

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1. Hummel Figurines

Most Hummel figurines are worth $40.00-$100.00. There are some rare Hummel figurines worth $500.00-$10,000.00. The common price for a Hummel figurine at an estate sale is $1.00-$10.00. If you know what Hummel figurines you are looking for there is a good chance you can find a bargain.

2. Sterling Silver

Almost every estate sale I have been to had sterling silver for sale. When it comes to sterling silver most people do not know what they have. Most of the time you can find sterling silver for under $20.00. Sterling silver can resell for hundreds to thousands of dollars. If you are going to bargain hunt for sterling silver I suggest investing in a silver hallmark book for both Continental and International marks. I also suggest buying a good 10x jewellers loop. Loops are very handy when trying to find or figure out hallmarks.

3. Mettlach Beer Steins

These highly collectible German beer steins are often sold for under $10.00. They tend to get confused for the lesser valued Avon or reproduction steins. Most Mettlach steins sell for well over $100.00.  These steins are highly reproduced, make sure to do your research and buy carefully.

4. Antique Clocks

Antique clocks are very common at estate sales. Knowing who made the clock is very important. Most of the time you can find the makers name on the dial, but sometimes you will have to look at the back plate of the mechanism for a makers mark.  The average cost of an antique clock at an estate sale is under $100.00. When buying an antique clock the first thing that must be taken into account is the condition. Clock repair is very expensive. Always assume a clock will need a full rebuild on the mechanism even if the clock is running. This will protect you from any unseen repairs that may need to be made.  To find out more about antique clock makers read my 10 popular antique clock makers article.

5. Named Glassware

There are many glassware makers that fall into this field. Glassware is one of the most common items you will find at an estate sale. Here are some examples of named glassware.

• Lalique
• Belleek
• Tiffany
• Haviland
• Fenton
• Royal Doulton
• Royal Copenhagen
• Nippon
• Delft
• Majolica
• Bing and Grondahl
• Spode
• Dresden
• Meissen
• Staffordshire
• Wedgwood
• Limoges
• Newcombe
• Roseville
• Waterford
• Loetz
• Steuben
• American Brilliant Cut Glass

There are many other types of antiques and collectibles out there that are sold under value. When bargain hunting always remember if a deal is too good to be true it probably is. Research your items as much as you can. Know what you are looking for. Pick one type of antique or collectible to hunt for, but keep an eye out for items you know are a bargain. The best place to resell these items are at an auction house. Read the how to pick a right auction house for selling antiques for more information on this. A list of the best auctions houses in the United States can be found here.

If you have any questions or comments on this article please leave a comment on this page.

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As an antique appraiser I get asked many questions about caring for antiques and collectibles. The proper care is essential to maintain the value of your antiques and collectibles. Once your antiques and collectibles have any condition issues the value declines. In this article I have provided some tips on how to care for popular antiques and collectibles.

Antique and Collectible Furniture:

• Dust antique furniture frequently. Use a soft cloth to dust and polish antique furniture.
• Polish antique furniture only once or twice a year. Use a good beeswax based polish.  Apply the polish, leave overnight and then buff.
• Do not use a spray polish. These polishes contain silicon, which builds up a sticky surface. This will deplete the natural oils in the wood.
• Keep the temperature and humidity regulated. Too much or too little humidity can damage wood and veneer. Temperature changes especially from one extreme to another will damage wood.  This will occur mainly when transporting antique furniture and other wood pieces from one climate to another.
• Monitor the amount of sunlight that reaches the furniture. Sunlight has many damaging effects on antique furniture. Here is a short list:
  • Fades the finish and any fabrics
  • Dries out the wood and other materials
  • Deteriorates the integrity of fabrics and other materials
  • Where possible, turn pieces of furniture around occasionally, to even the fading process
• Keep curtains drawn on sunny days when rooms are not in use.
• Inspect furnitures periodically for lifting veneer or molding. This will sound hollow if lightly tapped. Also look for loose joints, water damage or woodworm holes.
• If required to repair damage to antique furniture choose a reputable restoration shop. Good restoration takes time and money – a careless repair won’t last and can hurt the value more than if the piece was not repaired.

Antique Clocks:

• Keep antique clocks running.
• Wind carefully, using the correct size key.
• Be careful when winding antique clocks, spring-driven bracket and mantle clocks need to be held steady when winding. When winding a weight-driven regulator, longcase or grandfather clocks open the door to enable you to see that the weights do not hit the case or pendulum.
• Do not use Windex or any other ammonia based glass cleaner on the clock face, dial, gilding, painted or gilded glass.

Antique and Collectible Porcelain and Pottery:

• Hold the item by the main part of the body. Never hold or lift an item by the handle. The handle of an item is the weakest point. Many time there is damage to a handle that can not be seen, holding or lifting the item by the handle can cause further damage or may destroy the item altogether.
• Do not use abrasive or harsh cleaners.
• If the porcelain or Pottery item is very dirty, use a soft sponge to gently wipe clean.
• Do not use any kind of tape on lids or main body of the piece – peeling it off may remove enamel or gilding.
• Keep antique porcelain and pottery pieces behind glass.

Antique Silver:

• Wash silver in hot soapy water. Make sure to rinse the silver piece in hot water, dry thoroughly and buff with a soft cloth.
• Remove tarnish with one of the many commercial products available in the market. Silver polishes are abrasive. Use these polishes to a minimum, they can damage the silver if over used.
• To preserve the polish on domestic silver. Wrap the silver piece in dry, acid-free tissue paper and store the silver piece in a plastic bag.

Antique and Collectible Jewelry:

• Apply hairspray and perfume before putting on your jewelry. Allow these substances to dry. Spray and other substances  can stain gold or silver and damage pearls.
• Do not use jewelry cleaners, these chemical cleaners can damage antique jewelry. Soap, water and toothbrush will clean most antique jewelry. A little toothpaste and a toothbrush is a great way to clean diamonds.

Remember to test any methods of cleaning on an unseen area first. Every antique is different if you have any concerns consult a specialist before cleaning or repairing your antiques. The methods above may not be suitable for all antiques.

If you have any questions or tips please leave them in the comment section below.

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As an antiques and collectibles appraiser I see many antique insurance claims. The most common mistake I see from collectors is that they assume their home owners insurance covers their antiques and/or collectibles. In this article I have talked about how to protect yourself from this common mistake.

Most insurance companies in the United States will cover up to $2,500 of arts, collectibles and antiques. If you have an art, antique or collectible collection, this amount will cover about 1% of your collection. Insurance companies categorized artwork, collectibles and antiques together.

When you take out or update your home owners insurance you need to ask the following questions:

• How much coverage is included for artworks and antiques?
• What does this cover? Does it cover natural disasters, fire, flood, earthquake (if you are in an earthquake area), accidents, or theft?
• Is there any exclusions
• Is there any additional insurance you need to take out?
• Do you need a special rider added to your policy?
• Do they offer additional coverage?
• Is there an extra deductible?

There are some antiques and collectibles that are not covered by average insurance companies. For these items you will have to use an insurance company that specializes in antiques and collectibles insurance. If you have a large arts, antiques or collectibles collection I would recommend using an insurance company that specializes in antiques and collectibles.

Remember your homeowners and car insurance may not cover your antiques and collectibles when you are transporting them. You may need to take out extra insurance for this. Make sure you document your antiques and collectibles before transporting them. If you have any questions about documenting your antiques and collectibles please see my how to document your antiques article.

You will need to get extra coverage no matter what the size of your collection is. The best way to know the amount of insurance you need to cover the replacement cost of your antiques and collectibles is to have a professional appraiser do an insurance purpose appraisal.

Insurance purpose appraisals differ from a fair market appraisal. Insurance value appraisals are generally 2 to 3 times higher than a fair market appraisal. This is because replacement cost can be more than the item is worth. When you buy an antique for example a piece of Roseville in the 1960’s the cost of the Roseville was much less than it is today. So to replace that item it would cost you more.

When selecting an insurance policy to cover your antiques and collectibles you will want to take out a policy with at least two times the appraised value. You will also want to keep this policy up to date. An antique collection always changes. This means that the value of the collection changes too. Taking out extra coverage will help to keep your collection covered as you add to your collection. I came across many cases where the collector took out an insurance policy many years before his claim when his collection was in it’s infant stage. He forget to change his policy as his collection grew. When he filed the claim he found out that only a small percentage of their antiques or collectibles are covered.

Most collectors spend a lot of time and money on their collection but fail to spend a little time on it’s protection. These simple things can get neglected and put off until it is too late. Don’t assume you are covered ask the questions you need to. Always try to properly document your antiques and collectible.

If you have any questions about this article please leave a comment below.

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Some of the items to be auctioned include Michael Jackson’s white-jewelled glove, the gates to his Neverland Ranch, fine and decorative art, antiques, collectibles, paintings, life size bronzed statues, memorabilia, amusement, arcade games, Disneyana, garden items, and much more.

The auction will be 5 days in Beverly Hills, California. There is a 7 day preview in Beverly Hill the 14th – 20th of April and a highlights tour in major cities around the world.

Registration is required to bid in this auction.
Here are the four ways you can register prior to the auction:

• In person at the auction
• The registration page of the auction website
• By calling the auction house
• Online bidding registration can be done at Auction Network Online.

Here are the many ways to bid on items in this auction:

• Place live bids on the auction floor
• Phone bidding (Most auction houses have a minimum value or bid requirements to phone bid)
• Absentee bids
• Online and Proxy bidding

As of February 15th 2009 bidders can place proxy bids.

The auction catalogs are pricy. It’s a 5 book auction catalog and cost $100.00 (USD) per set and a limited edition box set signed and numbered by Michael Jackson for $500.00 (USD). Both prices do not include shipping and handling.  I am sure all of us have complained about an auction catalogue price, I find this one to be outrageous since you can get it for free online.

For more information you can visit Julien’s Auctions website.

There are a few mistakes in the dates the auction house has listed. You would think with such a high profile auction they would at least check the dates.

If you have any question or need any pre auction advice please leave a comment below. You can also send me a message through the contact page.

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Documenting your antiques and collectibles

Documenting your antiques and collectibles properly is very important.  I highly recommend taking the time to do this no matter how small or large your collection is. This will save you a lot of time and hassle. When you make an insurance claim for antiques and collectibles most insurance companies will have an appraisal done. They will usually hire an outside appraiser to come in and appraise your items. If your items are destroyed in the disaster the appraiser will have a difficult time getting an accurate value of your items if you do not have proper documentation. Your documentation may be the only thing the appraiser has to authenticate your claim.

Video taping your antiques and collectibles

Video taping is a great way to document your antiques and collectibles. The best way to do this is to video tape the item from every angle; top, bottom, sides, front, back and inside. Also include a full room shot of your antiques and collectibles. Spend at least 3 seconds per angle. Try to hold the camera still while taping your items. Make sure to clearly tape any serial numbers, markings, signatures, damage or repairs. These markings will help the appraiser authenticate, date and value your items.

Itemized list of your antiques and collectibles

You should also have an itemized list of your antiques and collectibles. This can be hand written or typed. Include the following information:

• The date you bought the item
• The amount you paid for the item
• Any serial numbers, marking, or signatures
• Damage or repairs the item may have
• Information about the item i.e. date it was made, where it was made, what it was made of, has it been in the family and for how long
• Past appraisals, estimates of value or valuations you many have had done
• Detailed Description of the item
• Other information you think would be helpful to the appraiser

Photographing your antiques and collectibles

You can document your antiques and collectibles with still or digital photographs. When photographing your antiques take pictures from all angles; top, bottom, sides, front, back and inside the item. Take several clear photographs. Remember to document any serial numbers, marking, signatures, damage or repairs. If you take digital photographs of your antiques and collectibles save these to a disk or off site location (one simple way to store the images off site is to use an internet photo storage site such as Photobucket, Amazon’s S3).

After you have documented your antiques and collectibles you will want to make sure this information is safe and accessible in the event of a disaster. In the next section of this article I have talked about how to safely store your documentation.

Safely storing your documentation

This is as important as documenting your antiques and collectibles properly. You don’t want all your hard work of documenting your items lost in the same disaster.

Use the following suggestions to store your documentation safely:

• Store your documentation off site. Here are a few good suggestions for storing your information:
• Safety deposit box (remember to store the key outside of your house, keys can get lost or forgotten when you are in a hurry)
• Digitally; you can use an online storage site, external hard drive located outside the house, off site network, or on a cd/dvd stored out side the house
• Give a copy to a trusted family member or friend. Make sure that this friend lives some distance from your location. It is not a good idea to store the information at a neighbor’s house, there is a chance that the same disaster may strike their house too. Fires, earthquakes, floods and other natural disasters will affect large areas.
• Keep a copy of the information at work.
• Email a copy of the information to yourself. This works best if the file is under 10MB

If you have a large collection of antiques and collectibles I would recommend hiring an appraiser to help you document your collection. Most appraisers offer this service at an hourly rate.

If you have any questions about documenting your antiques and collectibles please leave a comment below.

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