Most of us spend countless hours looking for those special pieces for our collections. However we tend to forget one of the most important parts of a collection. That is insuring our collections and choosing coverage that fits our needs.

There are many options out there for insuring your antiques and collectibles. However getting the right amount of coverage or knowing where to start can be a very confusing and frustrating task.

In this article I have answered some of the common questions I am asked about insurance and coverage.

Lets start by first covering the most common insurance policy options.

Antique and Collectible Insurance Policy Options and Coverage

Types of Insurance Options for Antiques and Collectibles

1. Homeowners insurance with adjusted antique and collectable coverage
2. Homeowners insurance with antique and collectible rider
3. Separate policy with your homeowner’s insurance company
4. Separate policy with a specialty insurance company

Policy Explanation and Types of Collections They Should be Used for

1. Homeowners insurance with adjusted antique and collectible coverage. - With most homeowners insurance you can increase the amount of coverage for specific types of items.

This type of policy is good if you have a very small collection. This is the way to go if you are just starting your collection.

2. Homeowners insurance with antique and collectible rider. An insurance rider is a lot like a supplement to your insurance policy. These are special conditions added to your policy to cover items outside of the standard policy coverage.

This type of policy is good if you have a small to medium size collection.

3. Separate policy with your homeowner’s insurance company. You can usually carry more than one policy with your insurance company. One to cover your standard household items and one specifically for your antiques and collectibles.

This type of policy is good if you have a large or rare/unique collection.

4. Separate policy with a specialty insurance company. There are a few insurance companies that specialize in antique and collectible insurance. These companies will write polices based on your collection and coverage need. These companies tend to be much more flexible with their policies than the standard insurance company.

This type of policy is good if you have a large, very large, rare/unique or specialized collection. However they will usually cover any size collection and are worth checking out to see what they can do for you.

Now that we have covered some of the policy types, lets talk about item types and if they are covered.

Types of Items that are Generally Covered By a Standard Homeowners Policy

With most homeowners policies there is a personal property coverage section. Personal property is considered to be the contents of your house.

However there are usually limited coverage for many types of items. Here is a brief list of items that usually have limited coverage.

Limited Coverage Items

• Firearms
• Jewelry
• Furs
• Money
• Artwork and Paintings
• Business Property
• Collector Items
• Limited Editions
• Sports Collectibles
• Souvenirs
• Collectibles (example: Hummels)
• Sporting Equipment

Some items are excluded as personal property. These items are usually motorized vehicles.

You would need to check with your insurance provider to see what is covered and what coverage limitations your policy has. Note that each insurance company, country and government have different regulations and rules.

When choosing your insurance and coverage, it is best to talk to your insurance company. They will be able to explain what is included in your policy and what modification you can make to your coverage.

Also make sure you check with different companies as each one has different policies, coverage and rates. Do not be afraid to check with a specialty insurer no matter what the size of your collection is.

Specialty insurers can be much more flexible and create a policy to fit your collection needs and may even be able to give you a better rate than your current insurer.

Here are 2 antique and collectible insurers in the U.S. Please note I have not personally used these companies and I was not paid to recommend them.

• American Collectors Insurance
• Collectibles Insurance Services

Documenting your Antiques and Collectibles

All insurance companies require you to prove your ownership of items when you are making a claim.

It is very important to document all your items (including your common household items) properly. This will make your life much easier if you ever have to make a claim. The following article will explain how to properly document your items for your insurance company.

How to document your antiques and collectibles for insurance purposes 

Remember knowledge is the only way to protect yourself when it comes to antiques and collectible. Having knowledge of your items and how much they are worth is not the only thing you need to know. You need to also know how to protect those items from events out of your control.

If you have any questions about insuring your items please feel free to leave them in the comments below.

In this article you will find 2 list to help you identify your Hummel figurines.

1. Identify Your Hummel By Number
2. Identify Your Hummel By Name

The one of the most common question I am asked is:

How can I identify what Hummel I have so I can find the value of my Hummel?

There are a few ways to identify which Hummel figurine you have.

• By the Hummel number
• By the Hummel name
• Visually – If you do not know the Hummel number or name.

How to Identify Your Hummel Figurine Using the Hummel Number.

The easiest way to identify which Hummel you own is by the Hummel number on the bottom of the figurine.

You can read my guide on Understanding the Hummel Numbering System for more information on how to find the Hummel number and what it means.

Each Hummel figurine will have a Hummel number, this is the model number assigned by Goebel.

This PDF file has all the Hummel figurines list by Hummel number and corresponding name. You can use this to quickly search for the name of your Hummel.

Download the free Hummel by Number list here.

How to Identify Your Hummel Figurine By Name.

In some cases you may not have access to the Hummel number but you may know the Name of the Hummel figurine. Since almost anything to do with Hummels uses the Hummel number and not the name it is important to have the number for reference.

This PDF file has all the Hummel figurines list by Name with their corresponding Hummel number. You can use this to quickly search for the Hummel number of your Hummel.

Download the free Hummel by name list here.

Hummel Trademark

Another important piece of information you need to value your Hummel figurine is the trademark.

The trademarks is used to date the figurine. Since a Hummel’s value can dramatically differ from trademark to trademark it is extremely important you understand which trademark your Hummel is.

You can read more about How to find the age of your Hummel here.

If you are looking for the value of your Hummel, you can get a complete Hummel Value Guide here.

If you have any questions about how to identify your Hummel feel free to leave a comment below and I will try to help you figure it out.

Don’t know what to get that special person? One thing you can never go wrong with is an antique or collectible. This is a great way to start a tradition or carry one on this holiday season.

Here are some great gift ideas for the Holiday season.

1. Hummel’s – Hummel’s are great Christmas gifts. These cute figurines featuring children from Germany are a wonderful way to show someone how special they are to you. There are figurines for just about any occasion or event.

2. Wade Whimsies Figurines – Wade figurines are miniature porcelain figurines that come in all kinds of whimsical characters. This is a good away to start a great Christmas tradition.

3. Candy Dishes – Candy dishes are great when you don’t know what to get someone. These dishes can hold more than candy. These types of dishes can be used to hold just about anything. A good candy dish can add a wonderful touch to any ones house especially round the holiday season.

4. Tea Caddy – For the avid tea lover a good gift idea is a tea caddy. Tea caddies are a receptacle used for storing tea. Tea Caddies come in all shapes,sizes and different types of material.

5. Glass Paperweights – Glass paperweights are unique and great presents. These always look wonderful wherever they are displayed. They also make great gifts for that special guy in your life.

6. Antique and Vintage Wine Accessories – There are many options for wine accessories. Here are some ideas.

• Silver wine coasters
• Wine bottle holders
• Claret jugs
• Corkscrews and other tools
• Wine funnels
• Wine labels

7. Scent/Perfume Bottles – Sent bottles can be an intriguing gift. These types of bottles have been around since 1000 B.C. and come is many different shapes and sizes. Scent bottles are a perfect gift for any girl.

8. Royal Doulton Toby Jugs – Toby jugs are a great gift idea for any guy. They make for great conversations while drinking your favorite cold drink.

9. Royal Doulton Figurines – Royal Doulton makes a large line of figurines. Everything from lovely ladies to their famous Bunnykins figurines.

10. Silver Personal Items – There are many great silver personal items. Here are some great gift ideas.

• Office items – letter openers, desk sets, and ink wells.
• Picture Frames
• Hand mirrors
• Card Cases
• Vinaigrettes
• Lighters
• Snuff Box
• Pincushions

It can be hard to pick the perfect gift for someone. I hope this article has given you some ideas for your holiday gift giving.

If you have any great gift ideas let us know in the comments section for this post.

After many requests about auction houses and which ones are the best in the United States, I have decided to do a series of  articles reviewing auction houses. I will review many auction houses across the United States focusing on the following points.

What I will cover in each auction house review:

• Price – Both buyer and seller premiums
• Auction Catalogs – Price, quality, and online version
• Website – Ease of usage, and information provided
• Services – Services the auction house offers and pricing
• Response Time – Both buying and selling inquires
• Location
• Bang for Your Buck
• Specialty Auctions
• Anything I Find Relevant to the Review

I will not be reviewing any of the major auction houses (such as: Christie’s, Sotheby’s or Bonham and Butterfield’s ). These reviews will be of independent and medium size auction houses.

Note: These are not paid (or compensated) reviews and are based on my options. These reviews will be based on my experiences with the auction house.

Is there an auction house you want me to review?

If so please leave the name of the auction house in the comments section below.

I deal with a lot of auction houses for both buying and selling antiques and collectibles. I get asked a lot of questions about reserves. In this article I will answer many of these questions.

Auction Reserve Q & A

Should I put a reserve on my items?

This really depends on what you are selling.

Common Antiques and Collectibles:

When selling common items it is not recommended to place a reserve on these items. Reserves can make it so buyers lose interest in an item (especially common (high supply low demand) items).

Note: Most auction houses will not let you place reserves on common items or there will be what is called a buy back fee (they will charge you a fee if the item does not sell see: What is a “Buy Back Fee”? for more information ).

Rare Antiques and Collectibles:

With rare antiques and collectibles it can be a good idea to use a reserve. However this can also cause a loss of interest in an item.

Note: The auctioneer has the ability to pass an auction lot if they feel it has not reached the value it should, even if there is no reserve (any good auction house will do this).

How much should my reserve be?

An auction reserve is usually set at 25 -75% of the estimate value.

Example: The estimated value of a painting is $10,000 (USD) the reserve would be $2,500 – $7,500 (USD).

Is there a fee for using a reserve?

This depends on the auction house. If you are selling a high end item then there is usually no fee. However if you want to place a reserve on an item that should not have one, many auction houses will charge a fee or a buy back charge (if the item does not sell).

What is a “Buy Back Fee”?

This is a fee that is charged when the auction house has to “buy back” (unsold) items. They charge this fee to cover the cost of re-listing and advertising the item. There is a lot of work and cost that goes into setting up, advertising and cataloging an auction. When your item is unsold this process has to be done again at a loss to the auction house.

What happens if the item does not meet the reserve?

Each auction house has its own polices on what happens when an item is unsold. Here are some of the more common polices.

• The item is put into the next appropriate auction with no reserve price.
• The item is returned to you.
• The item is auctioned again with a lower reserve.

Why should I use a reserve?

Reserves are best used for rare items that you want to protect. With auctions there are many factors that can effect how much an item sells for.

Here are some of the factors that can effect an auction.

• Who is bidding (are the bidders there).
• Is it a specialty auction
• Economy
• Supply and Demand
• Time of year
• Weather
• Holidays

With so many factors it can be a good idea to have a little security in place, incase everything does not fall into place perfectly.

What is the difference between a reserve and blind reserve?

Reserve: A reserve is a published reserve (usually stated in the catalog along with the estimate price). This means the bidders know the reserve while bidding.

Blind Reserve: A blind reserve is an unpublished reserve price. This means only the seller and auctioneer know the reserve price.

Will a reserve make my item sale price higher or lower?

Reserves can turn off buyers especially if it is a blind reserve. However a reserve usually does not affect the amount of money an item sells for. It affects if the item sold or unsold.

More Information About Reserves

Reserves are meant to protect an item of from selling under its estimated value.

Remember when deciding if you want to place a reserve on an item to be realistic. Credible auctioneers will give you honest advice about reserves.

Sometimes it is hard to see the real value of an item as it has great sentimental value to you. Unfortunately sentimental value has no affect on market value.

If you have any questions or comment on auction reserves, feel free to leave a comment below.

There are many factors in the price of a record as I explaind in “Things you Need to Know When Buying and Selling Vinyl Records/Phonographs“. One of the major factors in the value and/or loss of value of a record/phonograph is damage or defects. In this article I will cover some of the common record notations (Also know as the short-hand notation system). This is used by many collectors, dealers, and auction houses to describe the condition, special notations or damage of a record/phonograph.

Lets get started with the most common which is record grading.

Record/Phonograph Grading Collection/Auction Scale:

This is used to describe the condition of the record/phonograph.

Note: Sometimes a +/- will be added to a grade to give a more accurate grade. I have included the +/- in this grading guide.

• SS: Still Sealed
• M+: Mint Plus (Better than mint but below SS)
• M: Mint Condition
• M -: Mint Minus (Above E+ but below M)
• E +: Excellent Plus (Above E but below M-)
• E: Excellent Condition
• E-: Excellent Minus (Below E but above V+)
• V+: Very Good Plus (Above very good below E-)
• V: Very Good
• V-: (Above P but below V)
• P: Possibly Unplayable

Now you may be asking the following question.

What do these grades mean?
To answer this I have given a brief description of the means for each grade below.

Still Sealed

• Still Sealed: This means just as it says still sealed in the original packaging.

Mint Condition

• Mint +: Almost perfect.
• Mint: Very small imperfections .
• Mint Minus: Just this side of mint.

Note: SS M+, M and M- are rarely used.

Excellent Condition

• Excellent Plus: A choice copy with no wear what so ever.
• Excellent: Virtually no trace of groove wear with only minimal traces of use and handling.
• Excellent Minus: An above average record with a slight degree of groove wear. This wear is not enough to be a serious defect or impair the audio quality in any way.

Very Good Condition

• Very Good Plus: Well played but still playable, noticeable graying in the grooves.
• Very Good: Very well worn but listenable.
• Very Good Minus: Barely playable.

Possibly Unplayable Condition

• Possibly Unplayable: This also means what it say it may not be playable.

Abbreviations (Notations)

In the following sections I will talk about abbreviations (notations) that are commonly used when buying or selling records/phonographs.

Cover Notations

These are some of the more  common notations used by collectors and seller to describe the cover of a record/phonograph.

CO (Cut-out) – This is a generic description meaning the album cover has a Pea size hole in it (usually in the center so it matches the hole in the record) or it has a corner of the cover clipped.

BB – In the 1950′s-60′s a few manufacturers put a small metal rivet in the middle of the cover (where the hole for the record is located) to prevent the cover from tearing.

Die-cut – Manufactures would perilously cut a small opening in the cover. This was usually done to show a graphic or image from the inner booklet. This is not a defect , but a special pressing process.

DJ (Disc Jockey Copy) – These were usually early presses of the album that record companies sent to radio stations to encourage them to play the songs. This is also knows and a “Radio Station Copy”.

Fox (Foxing) – This means that there are rust colored spots on the cover these can be in varying degrees. This is usually caused by exposure to damp conditions and result in a mold.

GF, G/F or Gatecover – Gatefold cover means it opens up like a b0ok.

PS or P/S (Picture Sleeve) - This is where the paper sleeve of the record has a picture or image (printed or painted) on it. This is common on 45 rpm or 78 rpm singles.

RW (Ring Wear) – This denotes that the record was not properly stored and pressure from the vinyl record has worn a ring in the cover.

SOC (Sticker on Cover) – This means someone has placed a sticker on the cover. This is usually a name or price tag.

Split – This happens when the seam of the cover splits.

TOC (Tape on Cover) – This indicates that there is tape on the cover. This is usually done to fix the cover when a slip or tear has happened.

TS (Tapes Seam) - This indicates that the seam of the cover has been taped.

WOC (Writing on Cover) and WOBC (Writing on back cover) – This indicates that there is writing on the cover. This is usually a name or price.

WS (Water Stained) –  This indicated that the cover has been water stained. This can be anything from a few drops of water or ring from a glass to total water damage. The extent of the damage should be noted by the seller.

Note: All notations do not mean “damage”.

Label and Vinyl Notations

In this section I cover some of the common notations used to describe label and vinyl condition.

NAP (Not Affect Play): This notation is commonly used with an indication of scratches. This means the scratches are light and do not affect the play of the record/phonograph.

SCF (Scuffs): This refers to scuffs on the vinyl. This is usually caused by the paper sleeve. This is not a serious defect unless it affects play.

SOL (Sticker on Label): This means someone has placed a sticker on the label of the record/phonograph. This is usually a name tag or price tag.

WOL (Writing on Label): This means someone has wrote on the label of the record/phonograph.

Overall Condition Notations

The above sections with specific parts of the record/phonograph (cover, vinyl and label). In this section I cover overall condition notations.

DMG (Damage): This means there is damage to the record/phonograph. This will usually be followed with a notation or description about the damage. If there is no notation of damage make sure to ask about the damage before you make your purchase.

BBL (Bubble): This means there are bubbles in the vinyl this is usually caused when the record/phonograph is expose to heat.

CR (Crack):  This means the record/phonograph has a crack in it.

EC (Edge Chip): There is a chip in the edge of the record/phonograph.

SPK (Skip): There is a skip in the record/phonograph.

DS (Dull Surface): This means the surface of the record is dull this may affect record play.

EF (Edge Flake): This is where the edge of the record/phonograph flakes. Minor edge flake usually does not affect record play, you should still ask just to make sure this defect does not have any affect on the record/phonograph play.

GR (Grainy): This means the record play is grainy (has cracking noise during play).

MLD (Mold): This means the record has mold on it. This is usually caused by water damage or exposure to damp storage conditions.

WRP (Warp): This means the record/phonograph has been warped. This is usually caused by heat exposure.

In this article I have covered only a handful of the most common notations. There are many more notations, if you have one you think should have been included in this article feel free to leave it in the comments below.

When buying or selling vinyl recodes there are some things you need to know.
In this article I will cover some of the more important things you need to know when dealing with vinyl records.

Let’s get started with knowing what type of records you have.
There are many different sizes of records that have been sold since the invention of the phonograph player here are some of the more common ones.

Record Information you Need to Know

Record Sizes:

•  78rpm (1900-1960) 10 inches
•  45rpm (1949-1990) 7 inches
•  33 1/3rpm (1948-1990) 12 inches

Record Lengths:

• Lp (Long Play up to 60 minutes)
• EP (Extended Play)
• Normal play (standard play)

Now that you know a little about the record(s) you have let’s move on to the next section.

Know Who the Artists, Songs and Company is

Many artist and record companies produced across many labels. You can have the same artist and song on many different labels. This can affect the value of your record as each on of these variables can have an affect on the value of a record.

Things to take note of:

• Most records have a record number. (This is a lot like a model number and is used to identify a record and to date the record) Example: Victor Record numbers looks similar to this: 22775
• The Record Label.
• Who makes the record (company)
• What color is the label
• What information is on the label
• Song (both A and B side)
• Artist (both A and B side)
• Producer (both A and B side)

Once you have this information you can start to research your record. This will give you a good start to find the value of the records in your collection. But we can not forget the very most important thing when it comes to record, see the next section.

Condition

The most important thing to consider when it comes to records is condition. You maybe asking yourself the following question right about now.

Why is knowing the condition of a record so important?

The simple answer is: As with any antique or collectible, the condition affects the value or monetary worth of the antique or collectible whether you are buying or selling.

One of the major causes of damage to a record is from the phonograph players themselves. Most phonographs used crude record player technology available at the time. This especially applies to records pre-1950. Finding records made before 1950 in any condition close to near mint or above is almost impossible. Records found in near mint, mint, and still sealed condition command a premium price.

Another important part of condition is the record cover. Now you maybe asking yourself this question.

Why are the record covers so important to a record value?

The answer is: Records with artwork covers such as Disney records are known to have amazing graphical covers and this can usually makes half of the records value (In some cases the cover is worth more than the record). With records like Disney Records the cover is just as important as the record. This applies mainly to 33 1/3 records (LP’s) some 78rpm and 45rpm (mostly singles) have artwork paper sleeves (These are highly collectible and very difficult to find in good condition). When there is a artwork cover with the record the collector considers both the record and cover condition when making these types of purchases.

You need to take in to account the record cover when grading a record if it applies.

Standard Grading System for Records

• SS = Still Sealed (This is the rarest condition)
• M = Mint Condition
• M- or NM = Mint Minus or Near Mint Condition
• VG+ = Very Good Plus Condition (Sometimes noted as EX or EXC = Excellent)
• VG = Very Good Condition
• G = Good Condition
• P = Poor Condition

Some dealers may add an extra (+ or -) to a grade, this allows them to get even more specific. Example VG++ this indicates a records to good to be VG+ (Very Good Plus) but not good enough to be NM (Near Mint).

There are also some common notations you may see along with the grading. These are used to tell you condition issues with the record or a rarity (example: special label). See my article on Common Record Notations this will be posted shortly so stay tuned.

How the different grades affect the value of a record.

Most price guides use NM (Near Mint) or VG+ as the standard for their prices.

We will use VG+ for this article.

Affects Grade Changes Have on the Values in a Price Guide

• SS would bring 125-200% (depending on the album rarity) over the guide price in most cases.
• M and M- would command at least 50% over the listed price
• VG+ would be worth 50% less than M-
•  VG 25% of listed price
•  G 10-20% of listed price
•  P 5-10% of listed price

Finally just to add a small note of realism and what you can expect when selling or buying antiques and collectibles. When using a price guide you can expect to not see the guide values you when selling. Many collectors will not pay list price values unless the item is very rare or still sealed.

Collectors generally expect to pay 20-25% less than the stated price. You also may not be able to sell common antiques and collectibles any where near the list price as most collectors already own them, the supply is high and the demand is low.

Dealers will pay even less than collectors.

Be realistic in your expectations and remember price guides are what they say they are, guides to help you determine the value of an item. There are so many variables that can affect a value of an antique or collectable. Also note most price guides take time to publish so they are already out of date (1-3 years on average) when it hits the bookstore shelves. If you can find an online guide these are usually kept up to date more, this maybe a better way to go.

One last note if you are looking to buy or sell records the following auction house maybe a good place to start. I personally know them and worked with this auction house many times so I can highly recommend them.
Nauck’s Vintages Records

If you have any questions feel free to leave a comment below.

I get asked the following questions a lot so I decided to write an article to answer these questions.

• Should I sell my Hummel figurines on eBay?
• Where should I sell my Hummel figurines?
• Where is the best place to sell my Hummel figurines?

Should I sell my Hummel figurines on eBay?

My answer to this is never. I am strongly against eBay for selling any kind of collectible or antique item. Most of the time on eBay you will not get the true value of the item being sold. Remember most people on eBay are looking for a bargain and expects to find one. You can read more about eBay and selling items in the following article effects of eBay on the collectible market.

Where should I sell my Hummel figurines?

There are many places you can sell your Hummels. Here is a shortlist of ideal places to sell them.

• Auction House
• Internet site such as RubyLane
• Hummel collector club publications (these usually have a for sale or classified ads section you can advertise your Hummels in)
• Well know antique/collectible publications (classified ads section)

Where is the best place to sell my Hummel figurines?

In this section I have listed some of the best places to sell your Hummels.

Auction Houses

The best place by far is an auction house that specializes in Hummels or collectibles. While researching this article I came across only one auction house in the USA that has regular Hummel specialty auctions so I recommend using them.

• Kramer and Kramer (they are located in Eaton Ohio)

Note: Most auction houses have collectible auctions. You can find more information in the following article best auction houses in the United States (see the up and coming auction houses section)

Internet Sites

If I had to pick an internet site to sell my Hummels on it would be RubyLane.

I would use RubyLane for the following reasons:

• You can set your own price (this is not an internet auction site)
• They are one of the largest internet antique selling sites
• Many collectors know and trust RubyLane

Antique/Collectible Trade Magazines and Publications

Many collector groups and organizations have publications, you can usually advertise what you have for sale in their classified ads for a small fee. Just like a classified ad in a newspaper.

Here are some popular trade publications.

• Antique Weekly
• Collectible Webs
• Antique Cake
• Antique67

Note: The above publications are some of many that I found while researching this article. The only one I have dealt with personally is Antique Weekly.

Important things to remember when buying or selling antiques/collectibles

I can never say this enough, when you are buying or selling antiques/collectibles knowledge is the most important thing to remember. Having knowledge about the item can save you from making a big mistake. When selling you can under sell your items by not knowing what you have and pricing it wrong. When buy this will help protect you from over paying for an item or purchasing an item that is damaged or a fake.

This should give you a good idea on where to sell your Hummels you can also used the guide to sell any of your antiques and collectibles. If you have a favorite place to sell your Hummels, antiques or collectibles please leave it in the comment section below.

Antique hunting can be fun and exciting. Spending a nice cool day digging through the local antique stores new stock, trying to fidn that piece you have been looking for. The feeling you get when you finally find that piece is like no other. I have put together a list of tips that will help you to become a better antique hunter.

1. Knowledge – I can not stress this enough. Doing your research and knowing what you are looking for is the most important thing when it comes to antiques. As any antique hunter knows you can not plan what you will find but if you have an idea and some knowledge then you have a better chance at protecting yourself from fakes, overpricing, damage and missed opportunities. This also goes hand in hand with number 2.

2. Focus on one area of antiques – Stick to one niche this way you can learn about that niche and have the knowledge to protect your self. When you try to take on too many types of antiques you can get overwhelmed. As the saying goes “Jack of all trades master of none”. I know that you can sometimes find a perfect deal and you just have to go with your gut on, this is ok from time to time.

3. Bring your tools – When I go antique hunting I usually take my appraiser kit with me. This is because every hunter needs their tools. Taking your tools with you can help you make good purchase decisions, this way you can examin and test the items before you make a purchase. Note do not do any test that may cause damage to the items while in the store, most antique stores have a you break it you buy it policy.

A few things your kit should include are:

• 10x Jewelers Loop
• Magnifying Glass
• Blacklight
• Digital Camera
• Ruler/Measuring Tape
• Books on your niche
• Clean soft cloth to remove dust
• Paint brush to remove dust
• Notebook to make notes
• Pen or Pencil

4. Plan your route – Know where your going so you can make sure to hit all your favorite shops. Remember most antique stores have different trading hours then your normal stores they may open later or close earlier. Don’t overload and plan to visit too many stores so you have enough time to look around and enjoy yourself.

5. Learn to haggle – You can save money by just asking for a better price. Most items in an antique store or sale has haggle room in the price. Don’t be afride to ask for a better price.

6. Look for the odd one out – The odd items are usually the best bargains. Looking for items that do not belong for example: ceramics in a antique coin store. In these instances the dealer is more likely to make a good deal with you to get the item out of their shop.

7. Relationships – Having a good relationship with your local antique dealers and auction houses can result in being able to view the items before the open public (Auction house) and better prices (antique dealers).

If you have any useful tips on how to be a better antique hunter feel free to leave them below in the comments section.

Hummel figurines can have a variety of numbers on the bottom. Each number refers to specific information about that figurine.  In this article I will explain what each number is used for and what information this number refers to.

The HUM number is one of the most important numbers on your figurine, this is the model number and it identifies what the Hummel is. This number is called the HUM number.

HUM Number:

A HUM number is a 1-4 digit incised (but can be hand painted in some cases) number (there will be a size designator after the number when the figurine was made in different sizes, we will cover this more in this article). This number is used to identify what Hummel figurine you have.

Example: HUM number 96 is “Little Shopper”

If a HUM number is a plain or whole number (no size designator) this means the Hummel was only made in one size.

Size Designators:

When a Hummel is made in a different size other then the original production size it will have a size designator after the HUM Number. If the Hummel is larger it will have a Roman numeral number. The higher the Roman numeral the larger the size.  Figurines smaller then the original size are designated by Arabic numbers followed by a “/0 (zero)”. The larger the Arabic number the smaller the size.

Examples: HUM Number 47 “Goose Girl”

This figurine comes in many sizes. Here are some examples:

47 and 47/0 are the standard size “Goose Girl” .

47 3/0  (Smaller size)

47/III (Larger Size)

Size Designators Chart:

/V (Musicbox)

/IV (Largest Size)

/III

/II

/I

/0 (Standard Size)

1/0

2/0

3/0

4/0 (Smallest Size)

In some cases there are exceptions to these size designators. When a figurine is restyled, it may be reduced in size but retain it’s original numbering.  In other cases you will find an Arabic or Roman number will appear to the left of the model number, this is common on old lamp bases (II/112) or (2/112). When trying to understand Hummel’s size designation system it is important to remember that the designator apply differently to each specific Hummel model.

Decoration Designations:

Each Hummel is hand painted according to the original M.I. Hummel designs. The decoration techniques used have been assigned a “Decoration Designator”, this was done because the factory uses so many different decoration techniques.

Decoration Designators Chart:

Designator                     Description

/11                                All matte-finish colors in rich variety of pastels
/11                                Blue Madonna with dark blue cloak rest of figurine in pastels
/13                                Ivory decoration in pastels
/6                                  Blue Madonna with pastel blue cloak rest of figurine in matching pastels
/6                                  Red Madonna with light red cloak rest of figurine in matching pastels
/83                               Matte-finish shading on bisque body
/H                                 Brown matte decor, very rare – not made after 1955
/W                                White over-glaze

The decoration designator is added to the model number after the size designator this will usually be a hand painted number and not incised like the model number.

Factory Production Control Number:

In some cases there will be a small hand painted or incised number on the bottom of the figurine; this is the assemblers number. This is usually a 2 digit number. This number identifies the person who assembled the individual soft clay parts of the figurine. The assemblers number has no real meaning to collectors. This number was used for Goebel production control.

I hope this article has helped you understand the Hummel numbering system. If you have any comment or questions regarding the number system feel free to leave a comment below.