The HUM number is one of the most important numbers on your figurine, this is the model number and it identifies what the Hummel is. This number is called the HUM number.

Hummel Number 618 "A Basket of Gifts"

HUM Number:

A HUM number is a 1-4 digit incised (but can be hand painted in some cases) number (there will be a size designator after the number when the figurine was made in different sizes, we will cover this more in this article). This number is used to identify what Hummel figurine you have.

Example: HUM number 96 is “Little Shopper”

If a HUM number is a plain or whole number (no size designator) this means the Hummel was only made in one size.

Size Designators:

When a Hummel is made in a different size other then the original production size it will have a size designator after the HUM Number. If the Hummel is larger it will have a Roman numeral number. The higher the Roman numeral the larger the size.  Figurines smaller then the original size are designated by Arabic numbers followed by a “/0 (zero)”. The larger the Arabic number the smaller the size.

HUM Number 304 "The Artist"

Examples: HUM Number 47 “Goose Girl”

This figurine comes in many sizes. Here are some examples:

47 and 47/0 are the standard size “Goose Girl” .

47 3/0  (Smaller size)

47/III (Larger Size)

Size Designators Chart:

/V (Musicbox)

/IV (Largest Size)

/III

/II

/I

/0 (Standard Size)

1/0

2/0

3/0

4/0 (Smallest Size)

In some cases there are exceptions to these size designators. When a figurine is restyled, it may be reduced in size but retain it’s original numbering.  In other cases you will find an Arabic or Roman number will appear to the left of the model number, this is common on old lamp bases (II/112) or (2/112). When trying to understand Hummel’s size designation system it is important to remember that the designator apply differently to each specific Hummel model.

Decoration Designations:

Each Hummel is hand painted according to the original M.I. Hummel designs. The decoration techniques used have been assigned a “Decoration Designator”, this was done because the factory uses so many different decoration techniques.

Decoration Designators Chart:

Designator                     Description

/11                                All matte-finish colors in rich variety of pastels
/11                                Blue Madonna with dark blue cloak rest of figurine in pastels
/13                                Ivory decoration in pastels
/6                                  Blue Madonna with pastel blue cloak rest of figurine in matching pastels
/6                                  Red Madonna with light red cloak rest of figurine in matching pastels
/83                               Matte-finish shading on bisque body
/H                                 Brown matte decor, very rare – not made after 1955
/W                                White over-glaze

The decoration designator is added to the model number after the size designator this will usually be a hand painted number and not incised like the model number.

Factory Production Control Number:

In some cases there will be a small hand painted or incised number on the bottom of the figurine; this is the assemblers number. This is usually a 2 digit number. This number identifies the person who assembled the individual soft clay parts of the figurine. The assemblers number has no real meaning to collectors. This number was used for Goebel production control.

I hope this article has helped you understand the Hummel numbering system. If you have any comment or questions regarding the number system feel free to leave a comment below.

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I get asked this question all the time. There are many options when it comes to selling your antiques and collectibles. Choosing an option all comes down to your personal circumstances.

In this article I have covered the most common ways to sell your antiques and collectibles. You can use this information as a guide to help you when making the choice of where to sell your items.

Private Sale:

Private sale is when you negotiate a sell between you and other parties. This can be done by yourself or through a broker. If you choose this option I would suggest using a broker. Brokers usually have a network of buyers and they also know how to negotiate in these situations on your behalf.

What types of antiques and collectibles should you sell this way?
You can sell any type of antique or collectible this way, however this works best rare or high-end antiques and collectibles.

Pros:

• You know where your antique or collectible is going. Some people specify that they want an item only to be sold to a collector, museum, or to someone that will not just resell it. This can be controlled in this situation.
• This option also allows you to take your time and negotiate.

Cons:

• You are limiting your items exposure; this can cause less interest in your item resulting in lower values (but not in all cases).
• You have to put in a lot of time going back and forth trying to make all parties happy in the deal.
• If you use a broker you will have to pay him a fee. This is usually a percentage of the sale.
• You will have to deal with shipping and refunds if the other party is not happy.

Other factors to consider:

• Time: In most cases private sales can take a long time. If you are looking to sell your item fast this is not the option for you (in most cases).

Remember: Even if you use a broker make sure to do your research. As much as I would love to say all brokers are honest, this unfortunately not always the case. The best way to protect yourself against a broker trying to get a good deal for his friend is to arm yourself with knowledge.

Auction:

I recommend auctions the most. This is a good all around way to sell your antiques and collectibles.

What type of antiques and collectibles can be sold at auction?
Anything can be sold at auction as long as it is not an illegal item or restricted item (e.g. endangered animal items.).

I would highly suggest using an auction house for any rare, high-end or medium range items. If you need help finding an auction house please read the following two articles.

• United States
•  Australia

Pros:

• Your items are well advertised. This is usually done by catalogues, flyers or brochures that are mailed  to the auction house mailing list. Most auction houses list their items on the internet as well.
• They have a large buyer base.
• There are experts there to value your items and help you with any information you may need.
• They take care of the shipping, handling and any refunds (refunds do not happen very often.).
• You can set a reserve price.

Cons:
This option is usually faster then a privet sell but can still take 2-4 weeks minimum. This depends on the auction schedule and if you have to wait for a specialty auction. This can sometimes as long 3 months to 6 months.

• Your items may go unsold. When this happens your items are either returned to you or relisted in the next appropriate auction.
• There is usually a seller’s fee; the average fee is 10-20%. This fee can go as high as 50%. You can read more about this in one of my earlier post Finding the Right Auction House to Sell Your Antiques.
• There can be extra costs such as transportation fees, photograph fees, reserve fees, and buyback fees if the item is unsold because of a reserve.

Consignment:

Consignment is when you put your item up for sale in a store to be sold for you. Many antique stores will take an item on consignment instead of out right buying the item. Once the item is sold you are then paid for the item minus the consignment fees. This fee is usually 10-30%.

What type of antiques and collectibles can be sold this way?
Usually mid to high end antiques and collectibles can be sold on consignment. In some stores they will take lower valueitems, but charge a higher consignment fee.

Pros:

• By having your items in a store setting you are insuring that the customer is a targeted buyer. This means the buyers are there to buy antiques and collectibles.
•  Your help out your local antique store.

Cons:

• When an item is consigned it may take a long time to sell.
• You are limiting your market to the people that come into the store.
• You have to pay a consignment fee.

Remember: I can not stress this enough. Make sure to do your research. Even when an item is on consignment you have to put the price on the item. You don’t want to under sell your item or price it too high.

Yard Sale/Garage Sale:

I only have one thing to say about this option DO NOT DO IT. You will not get the value for the item. When I was working in the auction house we would always have people come in and say somthing like: “On my way here I stopped at a garage sale and picked this up for $12.00. Can you tell me what its worth?” In this case it was a Missen stein worth $1200.00.

Online Auction (eBay):

Since the 1990’s eBay has became a popular way to sell items. I tend not to use eBay and do not suggest eBay very often.

What type of antiques and collectibles can be sold here?
All types of antiques and collectibles can be sold here. I would not suggest selling and rare of high-end items on eBay, with these items I would suggest using an auctions house.

Pros:

• You can sell your items fast.
• You are paid for your items right away.
• You have a world wide buyer base.  More people will see your item here. But this also causes the common market to get flooded, lowering the value of some items.
• There are many payment options

Cons:

• In most cases items sell for well under value.
• You have to deal with questions, shipping, refunds and people not paying.
• Some items are hard to sell because people see them as fakes even if they are not.
• Everyone is looking for that deal and expect to find it.
• You have listing fees and have to pay a % of the sell to eBay (last time I checked it was 6%)
• If your item does not sell and you relist it you have to pay the fee again.

Tip: Research research research. This is the only way to protect yourself.

 Online Antique Stores:

An online antique store is a lot like a brick and mortar antique store (consignment). The only difference is you have the whole world as your customer base. I do recommend these types of stores occasionally.

What type of antiques and collectibles can be sold here?
This all depends on the store. If it is a specialty store it will be limited to the type of items they sell. This is a good way to sell things like Hummels, jewelry, and smaller collectibles.

Pros:

• By having your items in a online store setting you are insuring that the customer is a targeted buyer. This means the buyers are there to buy antiques and collectibles.
• Your customer base is world wide.
• You do not have to take your item to a store. In most cases you just need a good picture of the item, price and a discription.

Cons:

• When an item is consigned it may take a long time to sell.
• You are limiting your market to the people that come into the store.
• You have to pay a consignment fee.

One store I like to recommend is Ruby Lane. I have not personally used them but have heard good things about them.

If you have an online store you would like to recommend or a question feel free to leave a comment below.

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What is an Estate Sale Company?

An estate sale is where a company comes into your home and evaluates the estate you are interested in selling. After you hire the company they will sort, clean, organize, research, price, market/advertise, and sell your collection and furnishings from your home. If there are any items that did not sell, the company will remove them and either dispose of them or donate what they can to charity (with your permission).  Some companies will also clean the house, garage and yards, so the property is ready for sale.

Why should you have an Estate sale?

There are many reasons you might want to have an estate sale. Here are some of the more common ones:

• Liquidation of a passed away loved one’s estate.
• Down sizing your collection.
• Divorce.
• Required to sell due to tax related issues or court order.
• You have a house full of items to sell and need help doing it.

As an appraiser I get asked many questions, one common question is why should we have an estate sale rather then doing it as a garage sale ourselves?

Here are some reasons why you should have an estate sale rather than a garage sale:

• You may not know the value of the items you are selling. This can lead to items being sold under market value.
• You may throw something away thinking it was trash.  Items may appear to be trash but can hold value.  It is always best to let the experts determine what is valuable and what is not.
• Estate sale companies do all the work for you
  • Clean
  • Itemize
  • Set up the sale
  • Run the sale
  • Market and Advertise
  • Process all sales transactions (they also except most forms of payments.)
  • Insure
  • Higher values for your items
  • Staff to help answer all the questions potential buyers may have.

How does an estate liquidator get paid?

Estate liquidators take a commission of the net proceeds of the sale. The percentage is similar to what an auction would charge (10-25%).  In most cases you never have to out of pocket any money.

Do’s and Dont’s of and Estate Sale:

A successful estate sale depends on many factors. Here are some do’s and dont’s when having an estate sale.

• Almost all estate liquidators have one common request: Don’t throw away anything at all and let them do the dirty work.
• Don’t clean the items, the estate specialist will do all of this for you. Cleaning an item can damage it if not done properly.
• You can have an estate sale for many reasons other than a family member passing away.
• Make sure to take the items you and your family would like to keep. If you find that there is something in the sale you wish to keep, all you have to do is tell the people handling the sale and it will be removed.

Estate Sale FAQ’s:

Q:) Do you have to have a death in the family in order to have an estate sale?

A:) No, You can have an estate sale as long as you are in possession of an entire estate full of items. This should be a large collection worthy of selling to collectors and dealers.

Q:) How do I choose an estate specialist to help me?

A:) When you are interviewing different people to handle your sale, keep in mind these people will be handling your family heirlooms and treasures. If you feel you can trust them alone in your house and that you can communicate openly with them about your wishes, you are probably safe to hire them. Make sure to check for licenses and or references prior to making your choice. Many estate specialists have just started out and may be hard to track down for payment. You will know when you have met the right person for your sale. Make sure you feel comfortable with the company you hire.

Q:) What do you need to do to prepare for an estate sale?

A:) Don’t throw away anything at all and let them do the dirty work.

Q:) How long will it take to have an estate sale?

A:) Usually takes a full seven days from start to finish. This includes sorting, cleaning, tagging, staging the sale, pricing, marketing, and selling all items.

Q:) How will I know what sold and for how much?

A:) A reputable and trustworthy company will give you a complete itemized list of the sale and items sold at the end of the liquidation. This list should be typed and easy to understand.

Q:) What happens if there is hidden money, photos, love letter, or personal papers found inside the house?

A:) Any reputable and responsible Estate Specialist will simply set these things aside, along with anything else that seems too personal to sell without permission. They will usually have the family come and retrieve the items or will mail it to you upon your request.

Q:) Who pays the sales tax for the purchases made by the general public, who do not hold re-sale numbers or tax ID numbers?

A:) Some liquidators charge sales tax per item, but most pay all the taxes themselves.

Q:) How does the liquidator get paid from the sale?

A:) Most estate liquidators work on a commission from the net proceeds of the estate sale itself. You should not have to pay any money up front or out of pocket.

Q:) What if you decide you want to keep something out of the sale?

A:) A reputable liquidator will allow you to simply ask and the liquidator should comply. Some estate liquidators have a clause in their contract saying you must pay for any items you decide to keep after signing the contract. Try to make sure you take the items you want before you sign the contracts.

Q:) Do I have to have antiques or collectibles to have an estate sale?

A:) No you do not have to have antiques or collectibles to have and estate sale.

Always remember there are some things that should be left up to the specalists. If you are going to have an estate sale I reccommend using an estate liquidation specialist. If you have any questions make sure to ask a specialist. Don’t be afride to ask questions as this is one of the best ways to protect yourself when it comes to antiques and collectibles.

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How old does an item have to be to be an antique?

There is a great debate about how old an item has to be to be considered an antique. The standard is 100 or more years. There are some antique dealers out there that like to say 50 years. This is so they can sell more items as antiques and charge higher values.

Is my item valuable because it is an antique?

Just because the item is an antique does not mean it has a high value. Age is one of the many factors in determining an antique value. Here is a short list of factors that make an antique valuable:

• The age of the antique
• The condition of the antique
• Rarity of the antique
• Market demand for the antique
• Maker of the antique
• Quality of the antique

How can I tell if my antique is real?

Trying to determine the authenticity of an antique can be very hard. Most popular antiques went into reproduction as soon as they hit the market.  Even if the item is from the correct time period it can still be a reproduction. Most of the time the term period piece is used to represent this. Research is one of the best tools you can use to determine the authenticity of an antique. If you have any uncertainty about the authenticity of an antique I would suggest finding a specialist in that field to help.

How does the condition of an item affect its value?

There are many answers to this question. Damage can have a dramatic effect on the value of an antique. If an antique is very rare, minor damage is going to have less of an effect on the value than if the same damage was on a mass produced antique that can be found rather easily. With common antiques minor damage usually has about a 25-50% effect on the value.

Where do appraisers get there information for an appraisal?

We get our information from many sources. Here are some of the resources we use:

• Comparable sales over the last 5 years
• Past auctions
• Antique retail dealers
• eBay
• Antique trade magazines
• A network of appraisers and specialist

Should I clean my antique?

Cleaning an antique can cause damage. This damage may not be seen right away. Before cleaning an antique make sure you research the best method you should use to clean your antique. The recommended way to do this is to have your antique cleaned professionally or to ask a specialist. Many cleaners today can have harsh affects on antiques. Dusting your antiques and general cleaning will help protect your antique items and their values. For more information about cleaning your antiques read my article How to Care for Antiques and Collectibles

What is the best way to sell my antique collection?

The answer to this question varies a lot depending on the situation of the sale. When selling antiques you have many options. Depending on your situation and the amount of work you want to do will determine what your best option is. Here is a list of places to sell your antiques:

• Auction houses
• eBay
• Consignment with an antique store
• Private sale
• Newspaper or online ad service such as craigslist

Also see my articles on Choosing the Right Auction House and Auction houses vs eBay

When collecting antiques your best tool is knowledge. Doing some research can save you time and money. I hope this has answered some of the questions you may have about antiques. If you have further questions feel free to leave a comment.

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Antique Terms:

1. Alabaster: A fine grained stone that is usually gray or white in color and is slightly translucent. This is used a lot in lamp shades.
2. Armoire: A large, often ornate cabinet or cupboard with shelving, which stands alone.
3. Art Deco: Named after an exposition held in Paris in 1927. Art Deco items are angular with simple lines. The art deco period was during the 1930’s. This style is currently making a strong come back amongst collectors.
4. Art Nouveau: The French term for new art, stared in the 1890s and continued into the 1930’s. Characterized by stylized natural forms and sinuous outlines. Using such objects as leaves, vines and flowers.
5. Backstamp: In pottery, china and porcelain backstamps are the identifying mark, name stamp, or signature of a manufacture. This is normally found on the underside of the piece. The backstamp may be stamped, decaled, or cut (incised) into the piece.
6. Buffet: A 16th-century serving or side table, frequently with two or three tiers.  In the late 17th and 18th-centuries buffets had cupboards beneath the serving surface and an elaborate superstructure above.
7. Cabriole: A leg with a double curve. piece of furniture shaped in two curves; the upper arc is convex, while lower is concave; the upper curve always bows outward, while the lower curve bows inward. The axes of the two curves must lie within the same plane
8. Champlevé: This is a technique for enameling a decoration , this is where the metal base is channeled or cut out to receive the enamel.
9. Cloisonné: This is a style and technique used to apply enamel on metal objects.
10. Credenza: An early Italian serving table or sideboard with canted corners. A credenza usually has two or three cupboards in the base and drawers in the frieze.
11. Cross banding: This is where a strip or band of veneer laid across the wood grain.
12. Gilding: The methods for gilding wood has  remained unchanged. The main techniques are still in current use today:

• Water Gilding is when gold leaf is applied using water as the agent to cause the gold to ’stick’ to the gesso, some of the gilding is then burnished.
• Oil Gilding is the application of fine sheets of gold leaf on to a surface with an oil size.  This is a longer lasting process but is less lustrous.
• Gilt-metal and gilded metal are achieved by fire-gilding (also known as mercury gilding), when an amalgam of mercury is applied to the metal to be gilded, which fuses when heated.

13. Hallmark: A hallmark is an official mark or series of marks applied (Usually stamped) to items made of precious metals — platinum, gold, silver and in some nations, palladium. The term hallmark can also refer to any distinguishing characteristic or trait.
14. Inlay: Is a technique used with furniture and ceramics. This is where part of a surface is removed and replaced with a contrasting material.
15. Louis XIII: Pertaining to the styles in France 1610-1643.
16. Louis XIV: Pertaining to the styles in France 1660-1710.
17. Louis XV: Pertaining to the styles in France 1715-1774.
18. Louis XVI: Pertaining to the styles in France 1774-1792.
19. Marquetry: Is inlaid veneers that are fitted together to form a design or picture that is then used to ornament furniture
20. Parquetry: Is inlaid veneers that are fitted together to form a geometrical pattern.
21. Quartering / Quarter Veneer: This is where veneer is cut and laid in four pieces, usually with grain at right angles. This is frequently found on early English pieces from the end of the 17th century.
22. Queen Anne Style: Was from 1720-1750. This style brought abrupt changes in the furniture world. It was simple with grace, less bulky and blocky, curved started to appear, pad feet and the famous cabriole leg was introduced. Secret drawers where introduced the highboys had domed bonnets. The hardware used was larger bail pulls with escutcheons. Woods for this period were walnut, cherry and maple.
23. Sconce: A decorative wall bracket for candles or electric lights.
24. Vernis Martin: Is a term used to describe a special varnishing technique perfected by the Brothers Martin in the 1730’s.
25. William and Mary: Was from 1690-1720. This style was influenced by the Dutch. This time period lead to roll ball syndrome with fat wooden balls on everything they could put them on. This was when gate leg tables, the first high chest, slant top, and upholstered easy chairs where introduced. The William and Mary style used burled veneers (fancy grained wood like burled walnut). They also had tear drop pulls Spanish feet, and were mainly made of walnut.

This is just a short list of the many terms used in the antique industry. I hope these terms help you in your hunt for antiques and collectibles. If you have an antique term you would like to share please leave it in the comment section below.

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Josiah Wedgwood marked all of his designs with a signature to identify the piece he created. This helps to verify that these pieces of Wedgwood are not a copy. This also makes it easy to date these pieces of Wedgwood accurately to the month and year it was produced. Many Wedgwood reproducers have gone to enormous lengths to falsely copy these marks. There are many newer pieces of Wedgwood china on the market that looks like antique Wedgwood China.

When buying Wedgwood or any antique from an online auction or store use caution. Antique Wedgwood China has become a popular item and is highly reproduced. Uninformed buyer may think they are getting a bargain on an antique piece of Wedgwood, when in fact they are buying a reproduction.

There are many well known collections of antique Wedgwood China worth millions of dollars. This depends on a providence of the collection i.e. the original owner, Condition of the collection and how complete the collection is.

One of the most famous  Wedgwood collections was once owned by the Queen of England. This collection has been meticulously maintained, passed down through the generations of the royal family and currently on display in London. This collection is considered priceless, irreplaceable, and one of a kind.

Do you have a Wedgwood fact you would like to add? Please leave a comment below.

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Here is some basic information about wood:

There are two kinds of wood, soft and hard:

• Soft wood is a supple wood
• Hard wood is a dense wood

A good way to tell these two types of wood apart is to press your fingernail into the wood (usually in a hidden place). If the wood is a soft wood your fingernail will leave an indention. If the wood is a hard wood your fingernail will leave no mark.

Wood has two kinds of grain, a close grain and a coarse grain:

• Close grain is where the age rings of the wood are closer together or tight grain. This gives the wood a smooth or fine appearance.
• Coarse grain is where the age rings of the wood are far apart or open grain. This gives the wood grain an uneven appearance.

Many times lighter woods (elm, maple or oak) are stained to look like darker woods such as mahogany or rosewood.

There are some woods that are more valuable than others. This is due to the rarity or availability of the wood. Wood that have to be imported cost much more then wood found native to a country.

Valuable Wood:

• Mahogany
• Rosewood
• Burl Walnut
• Fire side Walnut
• Circassian Walnut

Less Valuable Wood:

• Elm
• Pine
• Oak
• Maple
• Spruce

Types of Wood:

Mahogany is a hard wood that has a close grain. Mahogany is native to South America, North America and the West Indies. Mahogany was popular in England during the mid 18^th century. Mahogany was used to make fine furniture during this time period. Red and Brown are two common colors of mahogany.

Oak is a hardwood that has a coarse grain. Oak is native to North America and Europe. In the 17^th century Europe started to use oak to make furniture.

Walnut is a hardwood that has a close grain. Walnut is native to North America and Europe. The colors of walnut can vary from a light walnut to a rich golden brown color. There are also special types of walnut including burled (closed scrolling grain), circassian walnut, and American fireside.

Rosewood is a hardwood that has a close grain. Rosewood is native to India, West Indies, and South America. Rosewood got it’s name because of the rose scent the wood gives off when cut. Rosewood can easily be confused with mahogany. When you look closely at rosewood you will see fine black or white rings. Rosewood is also heavier than mahogany.

Pine is a soft wood with a straight grain. It is pale and is knotted. Pine is native to North America and Europe. Pine was frequently used to make furniture that was intended to be painted or veneered.

Maple is a hardwood that has a coarse grain. Maple is native to Europe and North American. Maple was frequently veneered. Another type of maple is bird’s eye maple.

Elm is a hardwood that has a coarse grain. Elm is native to North America and Europe Like maple, elm was frequently veneered.

Veneer:

Veneering is when thin sheets of a more valuable wood are glued to a less valuable wood. This made it so furniture makers could provide more affordable furniture to more customers.  Veneered furniture  has a lower value  than a piece that is made of solid wood.

Tips for determining if the wood is veneered:

• Look at the edges of the wood and if you see a seam then it is veneered. If the edge is seamless then it is solid wood.
• 17^th century veneer was hand cut and may be uneven.
• 19^th century veneer was machine cut and are very thin and even.

Inlay, Parquetry, and Marquetry

• Marquetry: This is a technique where various types of wood are applied to the surface to produce a picture. Frequently used shapes where flowers and birds.  Many exotic wood such as satinwood, ebony and tulipwood were used for marquetry.

• Parquetry: Parquetry and marquetry are similar. The difference between the two is the subject matter. Parquetry is veneer in geometric patterns. This was commonly used for chess and backgammon boards.

• Inlay is a decorative trimming where materials other than wood is inlaid into wood. Common materials used for inlays:

• Ivory
• Bone
• Mother of Pearl
• Brass
• Tortoise Shell

Gilding:

• Gilding is where gold leaf is applied with a plaster like substance to wood. This was very popular in France.

To find out more about antique furniture and time period that a certain type of wood was used please see Antique furniture styles, the last 200 years

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1. Hummel Figurines

Most Hummel figurines are worth $40.00-$100.00. There are some rare Hummel figurines worth $500.00-$10,000.00. The common price for a Hummel figurine at an estate sale is $1.00-$10.00. If you know what Hummel figurines you are looking for there is a good chance you can find a bargain.

2. Sterling Silver

Almost every estate sale I have been to had sterling silver for sale. When it comes to sterling silver most people do not know what they have. Most of the time you can find sterling silver for under $20.00. Sterling silver can resell for hundreds to thousands of dollars. If you are going to bargain hunt for sterling silver I suggest investing in a silver hallmark book for both Continental and International marks. I also suggest buying a good 10x jewellers loop. Loops are very handy when trying to find or figure out hallmarks.

3. Mettlach Beer Steins

These highly collectible German beer steins are often sold for under $10.00. They tend to get confused for the lesser valued Avon or reproduction steins. Most Mettlach steins sell for well over $100.00.  These steins are highly reproduced, make sure to do your research and buy carefully.

4. Antique Clocks

Antique clocks are very common at estate sales. Knowing who made the clock is very important. Most of the time you can find the makers name on the dial, but sometimes you will have to look at the back plate of the mechanism for a makers mark.  The average cost of an antique clock at an estate sale is under $100.00. When buying an antique clock the first thing that must be taken into account is the condition. Clock repair is very expensive. Always assume a clock will need a full rebuild on the mechanism even if the clock is running. This will protect you from any unseen repairs that may need to be made.  To find out more about antique clock makers read my 10 popular antique clock makers article.

5. Named Glassware

There are many glassware makers that fall into this field. Glassware is one of the most common items you will find at an estate sale. Here are some examples of named glassware.

• Lalique
• Belleek
• Tiffany
• Haviland
• Fenton
• Royal Doulton
• Royal Copenhagen
• Nippon
• Delft
• Majolica
• Bing and Grondahl
• Spode
• Dresden
• Meissen
• Staffordshire
• Wedgwood
• Limoges
• Newcombe
• Roseville
• Waterford
• Loetz
• Steuben
• American Brilliant Cut Glass

There are many other types of antiques and collectibles out there that are sold under value. When bargain hunting always remember if a deal is too good to be true it probably is. Research your items as much as you can. Know what you are looking for. Pick one type of antique or collectible to hunt for, but keep an eye out for items you know are a bargain. The best place to resell these items are at an auction house. Read the how to pick a right auction house for selling antiques for more information on this. A list of the best auctions houses in the United States can be found here.

If you have any questions or comments on this article please leave a comment on this page.

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As an antique appraiser I get asked many questions about caring for antiques and collectibles. The proper care is essential to maintain the value of your antiques and collectibles. Once your antiques and collectibles have any condition issues the value declines. In this article I have provided some tips on how to care for popular antiques and collectibles.

Antique and Collectible Furniture:

• Dust antique furniture frequently. Use a soft cloth to dust and polish antique furniture.
• Polish antique furniture only once or twice a year. Use a good beeswax based polish.  Apply the polish, leave overnight and then buff.
• Do not use a spray polish. These polishes contain silicon, which builds up a sticky surface. This will deplete the natural oils in the wood.
• Keep the temperature and humidity regulated. Too much or too little humidity can damage wood and veneer. Temperature changes especially from one extreme to another will damage wood.  This will occur mainly when transporting antique furniture and other wood pieces from one climate to another.
• Monitor the amount of sunlight that reaches the furniture. Sunlight has many damaging effects on antique furniture. Here is a short list:
  • Fades the finish and any fabrics
  • Dries out the wood and other materials
  • Deteriorates the integrity of fabrics and other materials
  • Where possible, turn pieces of furniture around occasionally, to even the fading process
• Keep curtains drawn on sunny days when rooms are not in use.
• Inspect furnitures periodically for lifting veneer or molding. This will sound hollow if lightly tapped. Also look for loose joints, water damage or woodworm holes.
• If required to repair damage to antique furniture choose a reputable restoration shop. Good restoration takes time and money – a careless repair won’t last and can hurt the value more than if the piece was not repaired.

Antique Clocks:

• Keep antique clocks running.
• Wind carefully, using the correct size key.
• Be careful when winding antique clocks, spring-driven bracket and mantle clocks need to be held steady when winding. When winding a weight-driven regulator, longcase or grandfather clocks open the door to enable you to see that the weights do not hit the case or pendulum.
• Do not use Windex or any other ammonia based glass cleaner on the clock face, dial, gilding, painted or gilded glass.

Antique and Collectible Porcelain and Pottery:

• Hold the item by the main part of the body. Never hold or lift an item by the handle. The handle of an item is the weakest point. Many time there is damage to a handle that can not be seen, holding or lifting the item by the handle can cause further damage or may destroy the item altogether.
• Do not use abrasive or harsh cleaners.
• If the porcelain or Pottery item is very dirty, use a soft sponge to gently wipe clean.
• Do not use any kind of tape on lids or main body of the piece – peeling it off may remove enamel or gilding.
• Keep antique porcelain and pottery pieces behind glass.

Antique Silver:

• Wash silver in hot soapy water. Make sure to rinse the silver piece in hot water, dry thoroughly and buff with a soft cloth.
• Remove tarnish with one of the many commercial products available in the market. Silver polishes are abrasive. Use these polishes to a minimum, they can damage the silver if over used.
• To preserve the polish on domestic silver. Wrap the silver piece in dry, acid-free tissue paper and store the silver piece in a plastic bag.

Antique and Collectible Jewelry:

• Apply hairspray and perfume before putting on your jewelry. Allow these substances to dry. Spray and other substances  can stain gold or silver and damage pearls.
• Do not use jewelry cleaners, these chemical cleaners can damage antique jewelry. Soap, water and toothbrush will clean most antique jewelry. A little toothpaste and a toothbrush is a great way to clean diamonds.

Remember to test any methods of cleaning on an unseen area first. Every antique is different if you have any concerns consult a specialist before cleaning or repairing your antiques. The methods above may not be suitable for all antiques.

If you have any questions or tips please leave them in the comment section below.

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As an antiques and collectibles appraiser I see many antique insurance claims. The most common mistake I see from collectors is that they assume their home owners insurance covers their antiques and/or collectibles. In this article I have talked about how to protect yourself from this common mistake.

Most insurance companies in the United States will cover up to $2,500 of arts, collectibles and antiques. If you have an art, antique or collectible collection, this amount will cover about 1% of your collection. Insurance companies categorized artwork, collectibles and antiques together.

When you take out or update your home owners insurance you need to ask the following questions:

• How much coverage is included for artworks and antiques?
• What does this cover? Does it cover natural disasters, fire, flood, earthquake (if you are in an earthquake area), accidents, or theft?
• Is there any exclusions
• Is there any additional insurance you need to take out?
• Do you need a special rider added to your policy?
• Do they offer additional coverage?
• Is there an extra deductible?

There are some antiques and collectibles that are not covered by average insurance companies. For these items you will have to use an insurance company that specializes in antiques and collectibles insurance. If you have a large arts, antiques or collectibles collection I would recommend using an insurance company that specializes in antiques and collectibles.

Remember your homeowners and car insurance may not cover your antiques and collectibles when you are transporting them. You may need to take out extra insurance for this. Make sure you document your antiques and collectibles before transporting them. If you have any questions about documenting your antiques and collectibles please see my how to document your antiques article.

You will need to get extra coverage no matter what the size of your collection is. The best way to know the amount of insurance you need to cover the replacement cost of your antiques and collectibles is to have a professional appraiser do an insurance purpose appraisal.

Insurance purpose appraisals differ from a fair market appraisal. Insurance value appraisals are generally 2 to 3 times higher than a fair market appraisal. This is because replacement cost can be more than the item is worth. When you buy an antique for example a piece of Roseville in the 1960’s the cost of the Roseville was much less than it is today. So to replace that item it would cost you more.

When selecting an insurance policy to cover your antiques and collectibles you will want to take out a policy with at least two times the appraised value. You will also want to keep this policy up to date. An antique collection always changes. This means that the value of the collection changes too. Taking out extra coverage will help to keep your collection covered as you add to your collection. I came across many cases where the collector took out an insurance policy many years before his claim when his collection was in it’s infant stage. He forget to change his policy as his collection grew. When he filed the claim he found out that only a small percentage of their antiques or collectibles are covered.

Most collectors spend a lot of time and money on their collection but fail to spend a little time on it’s protection. These simple things can get neglected and put off until it is too late. Don’t assume you are covered ask the questions you need to. Always try to properly document your antiques and collectible.

If you have any questions about this article please leave a comment below.

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