There are many factors in the price of a record as I explaind in “Things you Need to Know When Buying and Selling Vinyl Records/Phonographs“. One of the major factors in the value and/or loss of value of a record/phonograph is damage or defects. In this article I will cover some of the common record notations (Also know as the short-hand notation system). This is used by many collectors, dealers, and auction houses to describe the condition, special notations or damage of a record/phonograph.

Lets get started with the most common which is record grading.

Record/Phonograph Grading Collection/Auction Scale:

This is used to describe the condition of the record/phonograph.

Note: Sometimes a +/- will be added to a grade to give a more accurate grade. I have included the +/- in this grading guide.

• SS: Still Sealed
• M+: Mint Plus (Better than mint but below SS)
• M: Mint Condition
• M -: Mint Minus (Above E+ but below M)
• E +: Excellent Plus (Above E but below M-)
• E: Excellent Condition
• E-: Excellent Minus (Below E but above V+)
• V+: Very Good Plus (Above very good below E-)
• V: Very Good
• V-: (Above P but below V)
• P: Possibly Unplayable

Now you may be asking the following question.

What do these grades mean?
To answer this I have given a brief description of the means for each grade below.

Still Sealed

• Still Sealed: This means just as it says still sealed in the original packaging.

Mint Condition

• Mint +: Almost perfect.
• Mint: Very small imperfections .
• Mint Minus: Just this side of mint.

Note: SS M+, M and M- are rarely used.

Excellent Condition

• Excellent Plus: A choice copy with no wear what so ever.
• Excellent: Virtually no trace of groove wear with only minimal traces of use and handling.
• Excellent Minus: An above average record with a slight degree of groove wear. This wear is not enough to be a serious defect or impair the audio quality in any way.

Very Good Condition

• Very Good Plus: Well played but still playable, noticeable graying in the grooves.
• Very Good: Very well worn but listenable.
• Very Good Minus: Barely playable.

Possibly Unplayable Condition

• Possibly Unplayable: This also means what it say it may not be playable.

Abbreviations (Notations)

In the following sections I will talk about abbreviations (notations) that are commonly used when buying or selling records/phonographs.

Cover Notations

These are some of the more  common notations used by collectors and seller to describe the cover of a record/phonograph.

CO (Cut-out) – This is a generic description meaning the album cover has a Pea size hole in it (usually in the center so it matches the hole in the record) or it has a corner of the cover clipped.

BB – In the 1950′s-60′s a few manufacturers put a small metal rivet in the middle of the cover (where the hole for the record is located) to prevent the cover from tearing.

Die-cut – Manufactures would perilously cut a small opening in the cover. This was usually done to show a graphic or image from the inner booklet. This is not a defect , but a special pressing process.

DJ (Disc Jockey Copy) – These were usually early presses of the album that record companies sent to radio stations to encourage them to play the songs. This is also knows and a “Radio Station Copy”.

Fox (Foxing) – This means that there are rust colored spots on the cover these can be in varying degrees. This is usually caused by exposure to damp conditions and result in a mold.

GF, G/F or Gatecover – Gatefold cover means it opens up like a b0ok.

PS or P/S (Picture Sleeve) - This is where the paper sleeve of the record has a picture or image (printed or painted) on it. This is common on 45 rpm or 78 rpm singles.

RW (Ring Wear) – This denotes that the record was not properly stored and pressure from the vinyl record has worn a ring in the cover.

SOC (Sticker on Cover) – This means someone has placed a sticker on the cover. This is usually a name or price tag.

Split – This happens when the seam of the cover splits.

TOC (Tape on Cover) – This indicates that there is tape on the cover. This is usually done to fix the cover when a slip or tear has happened.

TS (Tapes Seam) - This indicates that the seam of the cover has been taped.

WOC (Writing on Cover) and WOBC (Writing on back cover) – This indicates that there is writing on the cover. This is usually a name or price.

WS (Water Stained) –  This indicated that the cover has been water stained. This can be anything from a few drops of water or ring from a glass to total water damage. The extent of the damage should be noted by the seller.

Note: All notations do not mean “damage”.

Label and Vinyl Notations

In this section I cover some of the common notations used to describe label and vinyl condition.

NAP (Not Affect Play): This notation is commonly used with an indication of scratches. This means the scratches are light and do not affect the play of the record/phonograph.

SCF (Scuffs): This refers to scuffs on the vinyl. This is usually caused by the paper sleeve. This is not a serious defect unless it affects play.

SOL (Sticker on Label): This means someone has placed a sticker on the label of the record/phonograph. This is usually a name tag or price tag.

WOL (Writing on Label): This means someone has wrote on the label of the record/phonograph.

Overall Condition Notations

The above sections with specific parts of the record/phonograph (cover, vinyl and label). In this section I cover overall condition notations.

DMG (Damage): This means there is damage to the record/phonograph. This will usually be followed with a notation or description about the damage. If there is no notation of damage make sure to ask about the damage before you make your purchase.

BBL (Bubble): This means there are bubbles in the vinyl this is usually caused when the record/phonograph is expose to heat.

CR (Crack):  This means the record/phonograph has a crack in it.

EC (Edge Chip): There is a chip in the edge of the record/phonograph.

SPK (Skip): There is a skip in the record/phonograph.

DS (Dull Surface): This means the surface of the record is dull this may affect record play.

EF (Edge Flake): This is where the edge of the record/phonograph flakes. Minor edge flake usually does not affect record play, you should still ask just to make sure this defect does not have any affect on the record/phonograph play.

GR (Grainy): This means the record play is grainy (has cracking noise during play).

MLD (Mold): This means the record has mold on it. This is usually caused by water damage or exposure to damp storage conditions.

WRP (Warp): This means the record/phonograph has been warped. This is usually caused by heat exposure.

In this article I have covered only a handful of the most common notations. There are many more notations, if you have one you think should have been included in this article feel free to leave it in the comments below.

When buying or selling vinyl recodes there are some things you need to know.
In this article I will cover some of the more important things you need to know when dealing with vinyl records.

Let’s get started with knowing what type of records you have.
There are many different sizes of records that have been sold since the invention of the phonograph player here are some of the more common ones.

Record Information you Need to Know

Record Sizes:

•  78rpm (1900-1960) 10 inches
•  45rpm (1949-1990) 7 inches
•  33 1/3rpm (1948-1990) 12 inches

Record Lengths:

• Lp (Long Play up to 60 minutes)
• EP (Extended Play)
• Normal play (standard play)

Now that you know a little about the record(s) you have let’s move on to the next section.

Know Who the Artists, Songs and Company is

Many artist and record companies produced across many labels. You can have the same artist and song on many different labels. This can affect the value of your record as each on of these variables can have an affect on the value of a record.

Things to take note of:

• Most records have a record number. (This is a lot like a model number and is used to identify a record and to date the record) Example: Victor Record numbers looks similar to this: 22775
• The Record Label.
• Who makes the record (company)
• What color is the label
• What information is on the label
• Song (both A and B side)
• Artist (both A and B side)
• Producer (both A and B side)

Once you have this information you can start to research your record. This will give you a good start to find the value of the records in your collection. But we can not forget the very most important thing when it comes to record, see the next section.

Condition

The most important thing to consider when it comes to records is condition. You maybe asking yourself the following question right about now.

Why is knowing the condition of a record so important?

The simple answer is: As with any antique or collectible, the condition affects the value or monetary worth of the antique or collectible whether you are buying or selling.

One of the major causes of damage to a record is from the phonograph players themselves. Most phonographs used crude record player technology available at the time. This especially applies to records pre-1950. Finding records made before 1950 in any condition close to near mint or above is almost impossible. Records found in near mint, mint, and still sealed condition command a premium price.

Another important part of condition is the record cover. Now you maybe asking yourself this question.

Why are the record covers so important to a record value?

The answer is: Records with artwork covers such as Disney records are known to have amazing graphical covers and this can usually makes half of the records value (In some cases the cover is worth more than the record). With records like Disney Records the cover is just as important as the record. This applies mainly to 33 1/3 records (LP’s) some 78rpm and 45rpm (mostly singles) have artwork paper sleeves (These are highly collectible and very difficult to find in good condition). When there is a artwork cover with the record the collector considers both the record and cover condition when making these types of purchases.

You need to take in to account the record cover when grading a record if it applies.

Standard Grading System for Records

• SS = Still Sealed (This is the rarest condition)
• M = Mint Condition
• M- or NM = Mint Minus or Near Mint Condition
• VG+ = Very Good Plus Condition (Sometimes noted as EX or EXC = Excellent)
• VG = Very Good Condition
• G = Good Condition
• P = Poor Condition

Some dealers may add an extra (+ or -) to a grade, this allows them to get even more specific. Example VG++ this indicates a records to good to be VG+ (Very Good Plus) but not good enough to be NM (Near Mint).

There are also some common notations you may see along with the grading. These are used to tell you condition issues with the record or a rarity (example: special label). See my article on Common Record Notations this will be posted shortly so stay tuned.

How the different grades affect the value of a record.

Most price guides use NM (Near Mint) or VG+ as the standard for their prices.

We will use VG+ for this article.

Affects Grade Changes Have on the Values in a Price Guide

• SS would bring 125-200% (depending on the album rarity) over the guide price in most cases.
• M and M- would command at least 50% over the listed price
• VG+ would be worth 50% less than M-
•  VG 25% of listed price
•  G 10-20% of listed price
•  P 5-10% of listed price

Finally just to add a small note of realism and what you can expect when selling or buying antiques and collectibles. When using a price guide you can expect to not see the guide values you when selling. Many collectors will not pay list price values unless the item is very rare or still sealed.

Collectors generally expect to pay 20-25% less than the stated price. You also may not be able to sell common antiques and collectibles any where near the list price as most collectors already own them, the supply is high and the demand is low.

Dealers will pay even less than collectors.

Be realistic in your expectations and remember price guides are what they say they are, guides to help you determine the value of an item. There are so many variables that can affect a value of an antique or collectable. Also note most price guides take time to publish so they are already out of date (1-3 years on average) when it hits the bookstore shelves. If you can find an online guide these are usually kept up to date more, this maybe a better way to go.

One last note if you are looking to buy or sell records the following auction house maybe a good place to start. I personally know them and worked with this auction house many times so I can highly recommend them.
Nauck’s Vintages Records

If you have any questions feel free to leave a comment below.

I get asked the following questions a lot so I decided to write an article to answer these questions.

• Should I sell my Hummel figurines on eBay?
• Where should I sell my Hummel figurines?
• Where is the best place to sell my Hummel figurines?

Should I sell my Hummel figurines on eBay?

My answer to this is never. I am strongly against eBay for selling any kind of collectible or antique item. Most of the time on eBay you will not get the true value of the item being sold. Remember most people on eBay are looking for a bargain and expects to find one. You can read more about eBay and selling items in the following article effects of eBay on the collectible market.

Where should I sell my Hummel figurines?

There are many places you can sell your Hummels. Here is a shortlist of ideal places to sell them.

• Auction House
• Internet site such as RubyLane
• Hummel collector club publications (these usually have a for sale or classified ads section you can advertise your Hummels in)
• Well know antique/collectible publications (classified ads section)

Where is the best place to sell my Hummel figurines?

In this section I have listed some of the best places to sell your Hummels.

Auction Houses

The best place by far is an auction house that specializes in Hummels or collectibles. While researching this article I came across only one auction house in the USA that has regular Hummel specialty auctions so I recommend using them.

• Kramer and Kramer (they are located in Eaton Ohio)

Note: Most auction houses have collectible auctions. You can find more information in the following article best auction houses in the United States (see the up and coming auction houses section)

Internet Sites

If I had to pick an internet site to sell my Hummels on it would be RubyLane.

I would use RubyLane for the following reasons:

• You can set your own price (this is not an internet auction site)
• They are one of the largest internet antique selling sites
• Many collectors know and trust RubyLane

Antique/Collectible Trade Magazines and Publications

Many collector groups and organizations have publications, you can usually advertise what you have for sale in their classified ads for a small fee. Just like a classified ad in a newspaper.

Here are some popular trade publications.

• Antique Weekly
• Collectible Webs
• Antique Cake
• Antique67

Note: The above publications are some of many that I found while researching this article. The only one I have dealt with personally is Antique Weekly.

Important things to remember when buying or selling antiques/collectibles

I can never say this enough, when you are buying or selling antiques/collectibles knowledge is the most important thing to remember. Having knowledge about the item can save you from making a big mistake. When selling you can under sell your items by not knowing what you have and pricing it wrong. When buy this will help protect you from over paying for an item or purchasing an item that is damaged or a fake.

This should give you a good idea on where to sell your Hummels you can also used the guide to sell any of your antiques and collectibles. If you have a favorite place to sell your Hummels, antiques or collectibles please leave it in the comment section below.

Antique hunting can be fun and exciting. Spending a nice cool day digging through the local antique stores new stock, trying to fidn that piece you have been looking for. The feeling you get when you finally find that piece is like no other. I have put together a list of tips that will help you to become a better antique hunter.

1. Knowledge – I can not stress this enough. Doing your research and knowing what you are looking for is the most important thing when it comes to antiques. As any antique hunter knows you can not plan what you will find but if you have an idea and some knowledge then you have a better chance at protecting yourself from fakes, overpricing, damage and missed opportunities. This also goes hand in hand with number 2.

2. Focus on one area of antiques – Stick to one niche this way you can learn about that niche and have the knowledge to protect your self. When you try to take on too many types of antiques you can get overwhelmed. As the saying goes “Jack of all trades master of none”. I know that you can sometimes find a perfect deal and you just have to go with your gut on, this is ok from time to time.

3. Bring your tools – When I go antique hunting I usually take my appraiser kit with me. This is because every hunter needs their tools. Taking your tools with you can help you make good purchase decisions, this way you can examin and test the items before you make a purchase. Note do not do any test that may cause damage to the items while in the store, most antique stores have a you break it you buy it policy.

A few things your kit should include are:

• 10x Jewelers Loop
• Magnifying Glass
• Blacklight
• Digital Camera
• Ruler/Measuring Tape
• Books on your niche
• Clean soft cloth to remove dust
• Paint brush to remove dust
• Notebook to make notes
• Pen or Pencil

4. Plan your route – Know where your going so you can make sure to hit all your favorite shops. Remember most antique stores have different trading hours then your normal stores they may open later or close earlier. Don’t overload and plan to visit too many stores so you have enough time to look around and enjoy yourself.

5. Learn to haggle – You can save money by just asking for a better price. Most items in an antique store or sale has haggle room in the price. Don’t be afride to ask for a better price.

6. Look for the odd one out – The odd items are usually the best bargains. Looking for items that do not belong for example: ceramics in a antique coin store. In these instances the dealer is more likely to make a good deal with you to get the item out of their shop.

7. Relationships – Having a good relationship with your local antique dealers and auction houses can result in being able to view the items before the open public (Auction house) and better prices (antique dealers).

If you have any useful tips on how to be a better antique hunter feel free to leave them below in the comments section.

Hummel figurines can have a variety of numbers on the bottom. Each number refers to specific information about that figurine.  In this article I will explain what each number is used for and what information this number refers to.

The HUM number is one of the most important numbers on your figurine, this is the model number and it identifies what the Hummel is. This number is called the HUM number.

Hummel Number 618 "A Basket of Gifts"

HUM Number:

A HUM number is a 1-4 digit incised (but can be hand painted in some cases) number (there will be a size designator after the number when the figurine was made in different sizes, we will cover this more in this article). This number is used to identify what Hummel figurine you have.

Example: HUM number 96 is “Little Shopper”

If a HUM number is a plain or whole number (no size designator) this means the Hummel was only made in one size.

Size Designators:

When a Hummel is made in a different size other then the original production size it will have a size designator after the HUM Number. If the Hummel is larger it will have a Roman numeral number. The higher the Roman numeral the larger the size.  Figurines smaller then the original size are designated by Arabic numbers followed by a “/0 (zero)”. The larger the Arabic number the smaller the size.

HUM Number 304 "The Artist"

Examples: HUM Number 47 “Goose Girl”

This figurine comes in many sizes. Here are some examples:

47 and 47/0 are the standard size “Goose Girl” .

47 3/0  (Smaller size)

47/III (Larger Size)

Size Designators Chart:

/V (Musicbox)

/IV (Largest Size)

/III

/II

/I

/0 (Standard Size)

1/0

2/0

3/0

4/0 (Smallest Size)

In some cases there are exceptions to these size designators. When a figurine is restyled, it may be reduced in size but retain it’s original numbering.  In other cases you will find an Arabic or Roman number will appear to the left of the model number, this is common on old lamp bases (II/112) or (2/112). When trying to understand Hummel’s size designation system it is important to remember that the designator apply differently to each specific Hummel model.

Decoration Designations:

Each Hummel is hand painted according to the original M.I. Hummel designs. The decoration techniques used have been assigned a “Decoration Designator”, this was done because the factory uses so many different decoration techniques.

Decoration Designators Chart:

Designator                     Description

/11                                All matte-finish colors in rich variety of pastels
/11                                Blue Madonna with dark blue cloak rest of figurine in pastels
/13                                Ivory decoration in pastels
/6                                  Blue Madonna with pastel blue cloak rest of figurine in matching pastels
/6                                  Red Madonna with light red cloak rest of figurine in matching pastels
/83                               Matte-finish shading on bisque body
/H                                 Brown matte decor, very rare – not made after 1955
/W                                White over-glaze

The decoration designator is added to the model number after the size designator this will usually be a hand painted number and not incised like the model number.

Factory Production Control Number:

In some cases there will be a small hand painted or incised number on the bottom of the figurine; this is the assemblers number. This is usually a 2 digit number. This number identifies the person who assembled the individual soft clay parts of the figurine. The assemblers number has no real meaning to collectors. This number was used for Goebel production control.

I hope this article has helped you understand the Hummel numbering system. If you have any comment or questions regarding the number system feel free to leave a comment below.

I get asked this question all the time. There are many options when it comes to selling your antiques and collectibles. Choosing an option all comes down to your personal circumstances.

In this article I have covered the most common ways to sell your antiques and collectibles. You can use this information as a guide to help you when making the choice of where to sell your items.

Private Sale:

Private sale is when you negotiate a sell between you and other parties. This can be done by yourself or through a broker. If you choose this option I would suggest using a broker. Brokers usually have a network of buyers and they also know how to negotiate in these situations on your behalf.

What types of antiques and collectibles should you sell this way?
You can sell any type of antique or collectible this way, however this works best rare or high-end antiques and collectibles.

Pros:

• You know where your antique or collectible is going. Some people specify that they want an item only to be sold to a collector, museum, or to someone that will not just resell it. This can be controlled in this situation.
• This option also allows you to take your time and negotiate.

Cons:

• You are limiting your items exposure; this can cause less interest in your item resulting in lower values (but not in all cases).
• You have to put in a lot of time going back and forth trying to make all parties happy in the deal.
• If you use a broker you will have to pay him a fee. This is usually a percentage of the sale.
• You will have to deal with shipping and refunds if the other party is not happy.

Other factors to consider:

• Time: In most cases private sales can take a long time. If you are looking to sell your item fast this is not the option for you (in most cases).

Remember: Even if you use a broker make sure to do your research. As much as I would love to say all brokers are honest, this unfortunately not always the case. The best way to protect yourself against a broker trying to get a good deal for his friend is to arm yourself with knowledge.

Auction:

I recommend auctions the most. This is a good all around way to sell your antiques and collectibles.

What type of antiques and collectibles can be sold at auction?
Anything can be sold at auction as long as it is not an illegal item or restricted item (e.g. endangered animal items.).

I would highly suggest using an auction house for any rare, high-end or medium range items. If you need help finding an auction house please read the following two articles.

• United States
•  Australia

Pros:

• Your items are well advertised. This is usually done by catalogues, flyers or brochures that are mailed  to the auction house mailing list. Most auction houses list their items on the internet as well.
• They have a large buyer base.
• There are experts there to value your items and help you with any information you may need.
• They take care of the shipping, handling and any refunds (refunds do not happen very often.).
• You can set a reserve price.

Cons:
This option is usually faster then a privet sell but can still take 2-4 weeks minimum. This depends on the auction schedule and if you have to wait for a specialty auction. This can sometimes as long 3 months to 6 months.

• Your items may go unsold. When this happens your items are either returned to you or relisted in the next appropriate auction.
• There is usually a seller’s fee; the average fee is 10-20%. This fee can go as high as 50%. You can read more about this in one of my earlier post Finding the Right Auction House to Sell Your Antiques.
• There can be extra costs such as transportation fees, photograph fees, reserve fees, and buyback fees if the item is unsold because of a reserve.

Consignment:

Consignment is when you put your item up for sale in a store to be sold for you. Many antique stores will take an item on consignment instead of out right buying the item. Once the item is sold you are then paid for the item minus the consignment fees. This fee is usually 10-30%.

What type of antiques and collectibles can be sold this way?
Usually mid to high end antiques and collectibles can be sold on consignment. In some stores they will take lower valueitems, but charge a higher consignment fee.

Pros:

• By having your items in a store setting you are insuring that the customer is a targeted buyer. This means the buyers are there to buy antiques and collectibles.
•  Your help out your local antique store.

Cons:

• When an item is consigned it may take a long time to sell.
• You are limiting your market to the people that come into the store.
• You have to pay a consignment fee.

Remember: I can not stress this enough. Make sure to do your research. Even when an item is on consignment you have to put the price on the item. You don’t want to under sell your item or price it too high.

Yard Sale/Garage Sale:

I only have one thing to say about this option DO NOT DO IT. You will not get the value for the item. When I was working in the auction house we would always have people come in and say somthing like: “On my way here I stopped at a garage sale and picked this up for $12.00. Can you tell me what its worth?” In this case it was a Missen stein worth $1200.00.

Online Auction (eBay):

Since the 1990’s eBay has became a popular way to sell items. I tend not to use eBay and do not suggest eBay very often.

What type of antiques and collectibles can be sold here?
All types of antiques and collectibles can be sold here. I would not suggest selling and rare of high-end items on eBay, with these items I would suggest using an auctions house.

Pros:

• You can sell your items fast.
• You are paid for your items right away.
• You have a world wide buyer base.  More people will see your item here. But this also causes the common market to get flooded, lowering the value of some items.
• There are many payment options

Cons:

• In most cases items sell for well under value.
• You have to deal with questions, shipping, refunds and people not paying.
• Some items are hard to sell because people see them as fakes even if they are not.
• Everyone is looking for that deal and expect to find it.
• You have listing fees and have to pay a % of the sell to eBay (last time I checked it was 6%)
• If your item does not sell and you relist it you have to pay the fee again.

Tip: Research research research. This is the only way to protect yourself.

 Online Antique Stores:

An online antique store is a lot like a brick and mortar antique store (consignment). The only difference is you have the whole world as your customer base. I do recommend these types of stores occasionally.

What type of antiques and collectibles can be sold here?
This all depends on the store. If it is a specialty store it will be limited to the type of items they sell. This is a good way to sell things like Hummels, jewelry, and smaller collectibles.

Pros:

• By having your items in a online store setting you are insuring that the customer is a targeted buyer. This means the buyers are there to buy antiques and collectibles.
• Your customer base is world wide.
• You do not have to take your item to a store. In most cases you just need a good picture of the item, price and a discription.

Cons:

• When an item is consigned it may take a long time to sell.
• You are limiting your market to the people that come into the store.
• You have to pay a consignment fee.

One store I like to recommend is Ruby Lane. I have not personally used them but have heard good things about them.

If you have an online store you would like to recommend or a question feel free to leave a comment below.

Estate sales can be fun and exciting. They are also a great way to make some extra money. Once you know how an estate sale works and what to do you will have no problem having one. Follow the guidelines in this article and you will have an enjoyable estate sale.

What is an Estate Sale Company?

An estate sale is where a company comes into your home and evaluates the estate you are interested in selling. After you hire the company they will sort, clean, organize, research, price, market/advertise, and sell your collection and furnishings from your home. If there are any items that did not sell, the company will remove them and either dispose of them or donate what they can to charity (with your permission).  Some companies will also clean the house, garage and yards, so the property is ready for sale.

Why should you have an Estate sale?

There are many reasons you might want to have an estate sale. Here are some of the more common ones:

• Liquidation of a passed away loved one’s estate.
• Down sizing your collection.
• Divorce.
• Required to sell due to tax related issues or court order.
• You have a house full of items to sell and need help doing it.

As an appraiser I get asked many questions, one common question is why should we have an estate sale rather then doing it as a garage sale ourselves?

Here are some reasons why you should have an estate sale rather than a garage sale:

• You may not know the value of the items you are selling. This can lead to items being sold under market value.
• You may throw something away thinking it was trash.  Items may appear to be trash but can hold value.  It is always best to let the experts determine what is valuable and what is not.
• Estate sale companies do all the work for you
  • Clean
  • Itemize
  • Set up the sale
  • Run the sale
  • Market and Advertise
  • Process all sales transactions (they also except most forms of payments.)
  • Insure
  • Higher values for your items
  • Staff to help answer all the questions potential buyers may have.

How does an estate liquidator get paid?

Estate liquidators take a commission of the net proceeds of the sale. The percentage is similar to what an auction would charge (10-25%).  In most cases you never have to out of pocket any money.

Do’s and Dont’s of and Estate Sale:

A successful estate sale depends on many factors. Here are some do’s and dont’s when having an estate sale.

• Almost all estate liquidators have one common request: Don’t throw away anything at all and let them do the dirty work.
• Don’t clean the items, the estate specialist will do all of this for you. Cleaning an item can damage it if not done properly.
• You can have an estate sale for many reasons other than a family member passing away.
• Make sure to take the items you and your family would like to keep. If you find that there is something in the sale you wish to keep, all you have to do is tell the people handling the sale and it will be removed.

Estate Sale FAQ’s:

Q:) Do you have to have a death in the family in order to have an estate sale?

A:) No, You can have an estate sale as long as you are in possession of an entire estate full of items. This should be a large collection worthy of selling to collectors and dealers.

Q:) How do I choose an estate specialist to help me?

A:) When you are interviewing different people to handle your sale, keep in mind these people will be handling your family heirlooms and treasures. If you feel you can trust them alone in your house and that you can communicate openly with them about your wishes, you are probably safe to hire them. Make sure to check for licenses and or references prior to making your choice. Many estate specialists have just started out and may be hard to track down for payment. You will know when you have met the right person for your sale. Make sure you feel comfortable with the company you hire.

Q:) What do you need to do to prepare for an estate sale?

A:) Don’t throw away anything at all and let them do the dirty work.

Q:) How long will it take to have an estate sale?

A:) Usually takes a full seven days from start to finish. This includes sorting, cleaning, tagging, staging the sale, pricing, marketing, and selling all items.

Q:) How will I know what sold and for how much?

A:) A reputable and trustworthy company will give you a complete itemized list of the sale and items sold at the end of the liquidation. This list should be typed and easy to understand.

Q:) What happens if there is hidden money, photos, love letter, or personal papers found inside the house?

A:) Any reputable and responsible Estate Specialist will simply set these things aside, along with anything else that seems too personal to sell without permission. They will usually have the family come and retrieve the items or will mail it to you upon your request.

Q:) Who pays the sales tax for the purchases made by the general public, who do not hold re-sale numbers or tax ID numbers?

A:) Some liquidators charge sales tax per item, but most pay all the taxes themselves.

Q:) How does the liquidator get paid from the sale?

A:) Most estate liquidators work on a commission from the net proceeds of the estate sale itself. You should not have to pay any money up front or out of pocket.

Q:) What if you decide you want to keep something out of the sale?

A:) A reputable liquidator will allow you to simply ask and the liquidator should comply. Some estate liquidators have a clause in their contract saying you must pay for any items you decide to keep after signing the contract. Try to make sure you take the items you want before you sign the contracts.

Q:) Do I have to have antiques or collectibles to have an estate sale?

A:) No you do not have to have antiques or collectibles to have and estate sale.

Always remember there are some things that should be left up to the specalists. If you are going to have an estate sale I reccommend using an estate liquidation specialist. If you have any questions make sure to ask a specialist. Don’t be afride to ask questions as this is one of the best ways to protect yourself when it comes to antiques and collectibles.

As a Personal Property Appraiser I get asked many questions about antiques. In this article I have answered 7 of the most commonly asked questions. These questions come up at almost every appraisal I have done.

 

How old does an item have to be to be an antique?

There is a great debate about how old an item has to be to be considered an antique. The standard is 100 or more years. There are some antique dealers out there that like to say 50 years. This is so they can sell more items as antiques and charge higher values.

Is my item valuable because it is an antique?

Just because the item is an antique does not mean it has a high value. Age is one of the many factors in determining an antique value. Here is a short list of factors that make an antique valuable:

• The age of the antique
• The condition of the antique
• Rarity of the antique
• Market demand for the antique
• Maker of the antique
• Quality of the antique

How can I tell if my antique is real?

Trying to determine the authenticity of an antique can be very hard. Most popular antiques went into reproduction as soon as they hit the market.  Even if the item is from the correct time period it can still be a reproduction. Most of the time the term period piece is used to represent this. Research is one of the best tools you can use to determine the authenticity of an antique. If you have any uncertainty about the authenticity of an antique I would suggest finding a specialist in that field to help.

How does the condition of an item affect its value?

There are many answers to this question. Damage can have a dramatic effect on the value of an antique. If an antique is very rare, minor damage is going to have less of an effect on the value than if the same damage was on a mass produced antique that can be found rather easily. With common antiques minor damage usually has about a 25-50% effect on the value.

Where do appraisers get there information for an appraisal?

We get our information from many sources. Here are some of the resources we use:

• Comparable sales over the last 5 years
• Past auctions
• Antique retail dealers
• eBay
• Antique trade magazines
• A network of appraisers and specialist

Should I clean my antique?

Cleaning an antique can cause damage. This damage may not be seen right away. Before cleaning an antique make sure you research the best method you should use to clean your antique. The recommended way to do this is to have your antique cleaned professionally or to ask a specialist. Many cleaners today can have harsh affects on antiques. Dusting your antiques and general cleaning will help protect your antique items and their values. For more information about cleaning your antiques read my article How to Care for Antiques and Collectibles

What is the best way to sell my antique collection?

The answer to this question varies a lot depending on the situation of the sale. When selling antiques you have many options. Depending on your situation and the amount of work you want to do will determine what your best option is. Here is a list of places to sell your antiques:

• Auction houses
• eBay
• Consignment with an antique store
• Private sale
• Newspaper or online ad service such as craigslist

Also see my articles on Choosing the Right Auction House and Auction houses vs eBay

When collecting antiques your best tool is knowledge. Doing some research can save you time and money. I hope this has answered some of the questions you may have about antiques. If you have further questions feel free to leave a comment.

There are many terms used in the antique industry. In this article I have defined 25 commonly used antique terms. Knowing these terms can help any collector understand the antique industry a little better.

Antique Terms:

1. Alabaster: A fine grained stone that is usually gray or white in color and is slightly translucent. This is used a lot in lamp shades.
2. Armoire: A large, often ornate cabinet or cupboard with shelving, which stands alone.
3. Art Deco: Named after an exposition held in Paris in 1927. Art Deco items are angular with simple lines. The art deco period was during the 1930′s. This style is currently making a strong come back amongst collectors.
4. Art Nouveau: The French term for new art, stared in the 1890s and continued into the 1930′s. Characterized by stylized natural forms and sinuous outlines. Using such objects as leaves, vines and flowers.
5. Backstamp: In pottery, china and porcelain backstamps are the identifying mark, name stamp, or signature of a manufacture. This is normally found on the underside of the piece. The backstamp may be stamped, decaled, or cut (incised) into the piece.
6. Buffet: A 16th-century serving or side table, frequently with two or three tiers.  In the late 17th and 18th-centuries buffets had cupboards beneath the serving surface and an elaborate superstructure above.
7. Cabriole: A leg with a double curve. piece of furniture shaped in two curves; the upper arc is convex, while lower is concave; the upper curve always bows outward, while the lower curve bows inward. The axes of the two curves must lie within the same plane
8. Champlevé: This is a technique for enameling a decoration , this is where the metal base is channeled or cut out to receive the enamel.
9. Cloisonné: This is a style and technique used to apply enamel on metal objects.
10. Credenza: An early Italian serving table or sideboard with canted corners. A credenza usually has two or three cupboards in the base and drawers in the frieze.
11. Cross banding: This is where a strip or band of veneer laid across the wood grain.
12. Gilding: The methods for gilding wood has  remained unchanged. The main techniques are still in current use today:

• Water Gilding is when gold leaf is applied using water as the agent to cause the gold to ‘stick’ to the gesso, some of the gilding is then burnished.
• Oil Gilding is the application of fine sheets of gold leaf on to a surface with an oil size.  This is a longer lasting process but is less lustrous.
• Gilt-metal and gilded metal are achieved by fire-gilding (also known as mercury gilding), when an amalgam of mercury is applied to the metal to be gilded, which fuses when heated.

13. Hallmark: A hallmark is an official mark or series of marks applied (Usually stamped) to items made of precious metals — platinum, gold, silver and in some nations, palladium. The term hallmark can also refer to any distinguishing characteristic or trait.
14. Inlay: Is a technique used with furniture and ceramics. This is where part of a surface is removed and replaced with a contrasting material.
15. Louis XIII: Pertaining to the styles in France 1610-1643.
16. Louis XIV: Pertaining to the styles in France 1660-1710.
17. Louis XV: Pertaining to the styles in France 1715-1774.
18. Louis XVI: Pertaining to the styles in France 1774-1792.
19. Marquetry: Is inlaid veneers that are fitted together to form a design or picture that is then used to ornament furniture
20. Parquetry: Is inlaid veneers that are fitted together to form a geometrical pattern.
21. Quartering / Quarter Veneer: This is where veneer is cut and laid in four pieces, usually with grain at right angles. This is frequently found on early English pieces from the end of the 17th century.
22. Queen Anne Style: Was from 1720-1750. This style brought abrupt changes in the furniture world. It was simple with grace, less bulky and blocky, curved started to appear, pad feet and the famous cabriole leg was introduced. Secret drawers where introduced the highboys had domed bonnets. The hardware used was larger bail pulls with escutcheons. Woods for this period were walnut, cherry and maple.
23. Sconce: A decorative wall bracket for candles or electric lights.
24. Vernis Martin: Is a term used to describe a special varnishing technique perfected by the Brothers Martin in the 1730′s.
25. William and Mary: Was from 1690-1720. This style was influenced by the Dutch. This time period lead to roll ball syndrome with fat wooden balls on everything they could put them on. This was when gate leg tables, the first high chest, slant top, and upholstered easy chairs where introduced. The William and Mary style used burled veneers (fancy grained wood like burled walnut). They also had tear drop pulls Spanish feet, and were mainly made of walnut.

This is just a short list of the many terms used in the antique industry. I hope these terms help you in your hunt for antiques and collectibles. If you have an antique term you would like to share please leave it in the comment section below.

Wedgwood is just over 250 years old. This makes any piece of Wedgwood made from the first year to 150 years into production an antique. For an item to be an antique it has to be at least 100 years old. Read the differences between antique, vintage, and collectible item for more information. The Wedgwood Company keeps thorough records of all the designs they produce. Pieces of Wedgwood can be easily and accurately dated.

Josiah Wedgwood marked all of his designs with a signature to identify the piece he created. This helps to verify that these pieces of Wedgwood are not a copy. This also makes it easy to date these pieces of Wedgwood accurately to the month and year it was produced. Many Wedgwood reproducers have gone to enormous lengths to falsely copy these marks. There are many newer pieces of Wedgwood china on the market that looks like antique Wedgwood China.

When buying Wedgwood or any antique from an online auction or store use caution. Antique Wedgwood China has become a popular item and is highly reproduced. Uninformed buyer may think they are getting a bargain on an antique piece of Wedgwood, when in fact they are buying a reproduction.

There are many well known collections of antique Wedgwood China worth millions of dollars. This depends on a providence of the collection i.e. the original owner, Condition of the collection and how complete the collection is.

One of the most famous  Wedgwood collections was once owned by the Queen of England. This collection has been meticulously maintained, passed down through the generations of the royal family and currently on display in London. This collection is considered priceless, irreplaceable, and one of a kind.

Do you have a Wedgwood fact you would like to add? Please leave a comment below.