tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-70781343834805617372024-03-17T09:15:20.660+00:00Alan HalewoodAlan's blog showing his personal and working climbing.Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.comBlogger1736125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-80559991137826781232022-11-04T08:24:00.006+00:002022-11-04T08:33:46.149+00:00Scottish Winter Climbs West<p><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "Helvetica Neue";"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0JhGkf3MjmBwGtaqhUAjIHG9xLf20AkF5yXLalWAuL8aPYyH_wqHlyD_H43e1BKDXiWvgp36OZozIMYmFqvFYrL1R-x1BvqM-DiXdSnCJhuJziV2rpCSdafa1TkuAu1bbUuNIla8gBHMq3L27UC5RnLym6Ehuy1LIUPhJpC9YS5lx7kz0ZCSRpB8H/s776/Screen%20Shot%202022-11-03%20at%2020.04.47.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="776" data-original-width="548" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0JhGkf3MjmBwGtaqhUAjIHG9xLf20AkF5yXLalWAuL8aPYyH_wqHlyD_H43e1BKDXiWvgp36OZozIMYmFqvFYrL1R-x1BvqM-DiXdSnCJhuJziV2rpCSdafa1TkuAu1bbUuNIla8gBHMq3L27UC5RnLym6Ehuy1LIUPhJpC9YS5lx7kz0ZCSRpB8H/s320/Screen%20Shot%202022-11-03%20at%2020.04.47.png" width="226" /></a></div><span style="color: #cccccc;">Winter</span><p></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Don’t you love it? </span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">The bleary eyed start?</span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">The sweaty walk in, pack tugging (should have done more Autumn hill walking)?</span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">The first sight of the crag, is it “in” (and where are those 2 ahead of us going)?</span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">The first faff, gloves (damn them), pointy things (ouch).</span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">The sweet thunk of a well bedded axe vibrating like a twanged old school ruler.</span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">The scrape of points on rock (i’m sure Tom Patey said knees were “fine”- maybe check the next SMC publication to find out!!).</span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Hit it harder and maybe it’ll hold. And i wonder when the next one will be coming?</span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Should have taken the trouble to pull my hood up, do the zip up, close my glove wrists. Spindrift. </span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Please no hot aches today. Please!</span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi7jL4BICGJ4TaxmiVtr9iPlvj8gd9e8zt-denDzZSPlFTXVv_YBgQZ9QKar0QrnTz3rwk1XOsPqrybFfGYUcRGeEBpmT27RVZQ8qidyGbWqrMmkmGhlH9m4Lkx3QT3HHQN78ly0Nl00bHOI01GpbB5D4towf373iAtTndD6Cj8qx5BxOEOl1eScYpU" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2201" data-original-width="2934" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi7jL4BICGJ4TaxmiVtr9iPlvj8gd9e8zt-denDzZSPlFTXVv_YBgQZ9QKar0QrnTz3rwk1XOsPqrybFfGYUcRGeEBpmT27RVZQ8qidyGbWqrMmkmGhlH9m4Lkx3QT3HHQN78ly0Nl00bHOI01GpbB5D4towf373iAtTndD6Cj8qx5BxOEOl1eScYpU" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #cccccc;"><br /></span><p></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">But how do you choose where to go? Aye, we all trawl social media to see who has done what but what’s you’re starting point? Your tick-list? Where are your must visit venues this season?</span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Hold the page on that list. If you didn’t get your copy when it came out you NEED this guidebook. </span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Scottish Winter Climbs West is step forwards in SMC paper guidebook production. Maps, locations, parking, descriptions, timings, aspects and overviews make this guidebook so much more user friendly than any UK winter guidebook I’ve owned before. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjB5N7gZBc5rLMu21K4iszcVUamVNmmrM9AuiB-oANQS3LZeVDghfKZ18llVbe4rbppmleniXWa5yuG7VuRlcovtnP0Tjlu-TP2HgXbnY2Gb6a9SxSecqiqmKehjLoylUeHYs_t1W4Rg0-IFP2EhKVwak3z1vbNZVDW2O-EX0SFFo2XjxepOi4l6Eup" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="494" data-original-width="360" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjB5N7gZBc5rLMu21K4iszcVUamVNmmrM9AuiB-oANQS3LZeVDghfKZ18llVbe4rbppmleniXWa5yuG7VuRlcovtnP0Tjlu-TP2HgXbnY2Gb6a9SxSecqiqmKehjLoylUeHYs_t1W4Rg0-IFP2EhKVwak3z1vbNZVDW2O-EX0SFFo2XjxepOi4l6Eup" width="175" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgTMOn9ycKNdjdkEh1A9ml-bAb2Wdb_zah9iux1jOq8zOP_fBNwi2exXbld_qxYDNZrwdiez3z3a1VLceu65OfyRrrvkdLibkJvsqrGyb9URa64JW61kdMHOYgbijnF5CqWUeBxnghFPIRnP7rl8eyIP0_SJPPUQ7-LJLvUFTrXXaBhBUHkXE5LzTF2" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="492" data-original-width="342" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgTMOn9ycKNdjdkEh1A9ml-bAb2Wdb_zah9iux1jOq8zOP_fBNwi2exXbld_qxYDNZrwdiez3z3a1VLceu65OfyRrrvkdLibkJvsqrGyb9URa64JW61kdMHOYgbijnF5CqWUeBxnghFPIRnP7rl8eyIP0_SJPPUQ7-LJLvUFTrXXaBhBUHkXE5LzTF2" width="167" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><br /></span></div><p></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">And the pictures. Full disclosure, i’ve a few in there. They feel rubbish compared to some of them though. I can taste the delight and feel the grin, even though i can’t see Neil Kerr’s face, on the full page shot of him finding the Chasm in winter conditions. Hamish Frost’s double page spread of Greg Boswell on Un Poco Loco makes me want to duck like the arch is about to collapse on me. I want to scrape the crud away on Left Twin for Andy Moles and Ali Rose is having way too much fun on Isis. </span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">And how utterly outrageous (Hamish Frost’s shot again) is Greg’s position on Lost Arrow.</span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Its not just the action shots. The layout pictures will make life a lot easier. And there are gaps on those crags for the adventurous…</span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg0Ge9gXGX6JaQkmJ4MKyC99Ujg4lZm5Ixy6TwoMeAXK5PY_NeyGjElA1vrbIBQSijbGwHegWPHY5fqimSM7r2Rr2NR-mqPE_1PEaQhjNwNzRHHwrbCc6fxtO8picFjdebkGwiIiHyJHtoeckGtJOIwkXq-IsoGCY2mP-4uAc6HL__ZIok-i1o7s-70" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2952" data-original-width="3936" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg0Ge9gXGX6JaQkmJ4MKyC99Ujg4lZm5Ixy6TwoMeAXK5PY_NeyGjElA1vrbIBQSijbGwHegWPHY5fqimSM7r2Rr2NR-mqPE_1PEaQhjNwNzRHHwrbCc6fxtO8picFjdebkGwiIiHyJHtoeckGtJOIwkXq-IsoGCY2mP-4uAc6HL__ZIok-i1o7s-70" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><br /></span></div><p></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Motivation? This book’s dripping with it whether you climb II or X.</span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">But for the far-sighted and cunning its also a really canny tool. There should be smaller queues on Dorsal Arete this winter. The honey pots a bit less sticky and attractive. Read the crag heights… check the aspects… there is an awful lot to go at at your grade you’ve never heard of or considered before. </span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCo2n8xBYiAJ83MMWwVGv4We000ioTvtZdsYZiJBWZDBTWDbVKPszN-7GuQt-rvqjanNaemxqWy66dLianR48XM368HCGPVEpNuB3JeOnSZX_gKXYpOxD2smTQMFsU2unr5YOwK42K-Z9vut-oc-zMZ__dXLU5TMXsBPEUY3JrTHYMISJMiniqg_sr/s620/Screen%20Shot%202022-11-03%20at%2020.06.42.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCo2n8xBYiAJ83MMWwVGv4We000ioTvtZdsYZiJBWZDBTWDbVKPszN-7GuQt-rvqjanNaemxqWy66dLianR48XM368HCGPVEpNuB3JeOnSZX_gKXYpOxD2smTQMFsU2unr5YOwK42K-Z9vut-oc-zMZ__dXLU5TMXsBPEUY3JrTHYMISJMiniqg_sr/s320/Screen%20Shot%202022-11-03%20at%2020.06.42.png" width="227" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><br /></span></div><p style="color: #454545; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">West is best!!</span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgRYVYKADo7rxHWJDHFLC-aNgW11I43e0jLI4dEy1i_MvChEKIrIdqlfcv_AtoJIRZFUKBJvgUDa_aGYqidqpdm7r2pJ3vVJnCUNCNCcXeQDKKONDD0qZq-fuHe_ohwhva_htrUY3ZwN7-iYkVwPYpTclKgz7VpZ2JwEhcp6GtI9x7rfBxvuA1ahtZv" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3072" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgRYVYKADo7rxHWJDHFLC-aNgW11I43e0jLI4dEy1i_MvChEKIrIdqlfcv_AtoJIRZFUKBJvgUDa_aGYqidqpdm7r2pJ3vVJnCUNCNCcXeQDKKONDD0qZq-fuHe_ohwhva_htrUY3ZwN7-iYkVwPYpTclKgz7VpZ2JwEhcp6GtI9x7rfBxvuA1ahtZv" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #cccccc;"><br /></span><br /><p></p>Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-66586224559250261802020-06-17T14:29:00.003+01:002020-06-17T15:25:43.689+01:00Feeling rusty on the rock? Are you dealing with Skill Fade?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I don't know how many times I've climbed Pinnacle Ridge at Polldubh. It's a classic solo for some personal exercise, a fun route I guide a few times a year and, as the closest route to the road one I teach on every week or so in the summer.<br />
So why is my ankle wobbling like that on the wee smear and how come I can't find the piece of gear for my second runner without looking for it?<br />
<br />
The answer is that I haven't been climbing for 3 months and outdoor Trad rock climbing for 6 months owing to the pandemic. I normally have an enforced layoff the rock over winter. Lets face it the Scottish rock season is done by the end of October at the absolute latest and (other than the odd freak winter like Feb 2019) the rock shoes only come out for indoor walls until some point in March. I do get the odd overseas rock trip to help feed the rat (digression November in the Ameln Valley in Morocco was amazing last year- highly recommended when we can travel again) and, crucially my ropework and protection skills are getting a thorough work out all winter long... usually.<br />
So 2019-2020. My last rock route was a day of new routing on 26 November 2019. My last day at the wall was 3 March 2020 and my last winter route was 20 March 2020.<br />
So over 10 weeks later setting off up a pitch on the 3rd of June 2020 was probably breaking the longest running period of no climbing in.... 30 years!<br />
<br />
"Skill Fade" is defined as: "the decay of ability or adeptness over a period of non-use". Its a fairly well understood concept in the Medical, Military and Aviation worlds and is often noted after a break from work due to maternity or other issues. Its when you get a little rusty from lack of practise and some research showed that soldiers lost the experienced the greatest skill fade in the first 2 months.<br />
How well you know something, what the 'something' is, how you learnt it, how recently etc. are all other factors that will contribute to how much skill fade you experience.<br />
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I knew there was the strong potential for some skill fade in my climbing so what can I do about it?<br />
<ul>
<li>Keep it easy. Build up the difficulty again slowly. Harder Grades, unknown routes, dirty routes, poor weather, pushy partners etc. can all make things harder. So control the variables and make life easy for yourself so you have the space to focus and return to 'former glory'.</li>
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<ul>
<li>Immerse yourself in it again. Talk about climbing, read about climbing, watch videos of climbing. Research from the medical world showed that Doctors able to talk about work issues and procedures lost their skill at a slower rate than those who lacked those opportunities.</li>
<li>Use checklists and mantras. Now would be a really easy time to forget something you have done as second nature in the past... especially if you were 'unconsciously competent' or did things without thinking about them before. Build habits and ways of checking them. What belay building nemonic did you use when you were learning? "Check or Deck" sounds a bit twee but the importance of both buddy checks and double checking (knots, anchors, krabs done up etc.) is hard to overstate.</li>
<li>On the same theme climbing mindfully; staying aware of what you are doing and focussing on that rather than 'what ifs' or thinking to far ahead too soon at the expense of your current performance may help reduce errors.</li>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li>Mileage. Getting out plenty, moving lots, placing lots of gear, building lots of belays and doing all of that with the other 4 points above will help.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
</ul>
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For example. My first day out was 10 pitches of Severe climbing, well within my grade, on a perfect weather day, with 2 friends of a similar mindset all routes well known to me. We'd all agreed the purpose of the day and were happy to have a relaxed day out reconnecting with each other (socially distanced of course) and the rock. </div>
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I think it would have been amusing to video my first pitch and watch the process. "That hold doesn't feel as good as usual". "Where is that No.5 wire?" "This all feels hard!"</div>
<div>
That last is quite important. If you aren't expecting it the realisation that things aren't going as well as you expected them to can have a negative effect on your mental state. That can become the start of a 'spiral of doom' where you realise you aren't operating as well as you were, which makes you worried, which negatively effects your performance further, which makes you more worried etc.etc. Just knowing that skill fade is 'a thing' and taking steps to manage it in advance can prevent this negative feedback loop, keep you safer and help you get back to where you were sooner.</div>
<div>
As its not just personal climbing I'm thinking about but work too my kids have been taken climbing to help me re-perfect my tangle free ropework with 2 students and in idle moments on my daily exercise I've been thinking through teaching progressions at stances I know well mentally for different types of students.</div>
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I know. I don't get out much- but as lockdown eases on it I'll be working on it!<br />
<br />
Thanks to Paul smith for inout and ideas on this piece.</div>
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Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-12372140777944518432019-01-19T20:24:00.001+00:002019-01-20T07:08:28.962+00:00Sublime on SolitaireHaven't blogged in quite a while but today was so good I've got to put some pics up:<br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: #eeeeee; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-align: center;">Its getting tough to find routes Claire hasn't done as we've been hitting the winter hills together for 6 or 7 years. Ken suggested Solitaire as I was bemoaning this fact and as its one of the few lines I don't know well on the West side of Aonach Mor I though we'd give it a shot. This meant that although there were many teams getting the 0800 gondola we didn't feel any pressure to rush. Several groups went to Golden Oldy, Ken and Scott W both did Western Rib and we were followed up Solitaire by a slightly misplaced team who thought they were on WR too. The start to Solitaire looks intimidating, steep rock and roofs... but a nice wee gully lurks at the RHS of the face. Today it reminded me of the start to Fawlty Towers- mixed crud, good turf and some really fat ice in steep bulges gave a good tussle for pitch one (definitely more at the III end of II though and no gear above half way). P2 Was thinly iced slab and no runners at all! Then the sun hit and we sought shade behind walls and in gullies wherever we could as we, the snow and the ice all baked in the heat. By keeping to the shade we found some more ice and pretty good turf but anything under the dampening snow in the sun was to be avoided. The route is longer than Golden Oldy starting low at the RHS of the clutch of summit ribs and the first 2 pitches pulled no punches today. Higher up its pleasant and meander with occasional easy steps and it was with relief that we stripped off layers on the summit and gulped down fluids. Don't get many days this beautiful in a season but after the slow start this winter I reckon we learnt this one.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-align: center;"><br /></span>Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-88075709578740615322018-04-08T09:34:00.001+01:002018-04-08T09:34:24.742+01:00Winter Part DeuxThe blog has been quiet this winter as my 'hits' statistics show a drop from a high point of over 2500 back 10 years ago when there were only 4 or 5 winter blogs around to now maybe only 100 or so. I make lots of use of Facebook <a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbwhenyoureready/">https://www.facebook.com/climbwhenyoureready/</a> and Twitter <a href="https://twitter.com/AlanHalewood">https://twitter.com/AlanHalewood</a> now though. However this is a nice place for pieces like the one from February highlighting some issues with decision making for winter climbers or this wee 3 minute video of the second part of this winter. <span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Its still winter up high but I'm all about rock climbing now! Pictures of teaching climbing and mountaineering, Winter Mountain Leader and Mountaineering Instructor Certificate Courses at</span><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><a class="profileLink" data-hovercard-prefer-more-content-show="1" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/page.php?id=109418682423937&extragetparams=%7B%22fref%22%3A%22mentions%22%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/GlenmoreLodge/?fref=mentions" style="color: #365899; cursor: pointer; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none;">Glenmore Lodge</a><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><span style="color: #f3f3f3; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">and</span><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><a class="profileLink" data-hovercard-prefer-more-content-show="1" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/page.php?id=174697015874966&extragetparams=%7B%22fref%22%3A%22mentions%22%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/plasybrenin/?fref=mentions" style="color: #365899; cursor: pointer; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none;">Plas y Brenin</a><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><span style="color: #f3f3f3; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">and my own climbs. What a great season, thanks to all who shared it with me! </span><a class="profileLink" data-hovercard-prefer-more-content-show="1" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/page.php?id=108501879183132&extragetparams=%7B%22fref%22%3A%22mentions%22%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/AMIprofessionals/?fref=mentions" style="color: #365899; cursor: pointer; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none;">Association of Mountaineering Instructors</a><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"></span><a data-ft="{"tn":"-U"}" data-lynx-mode="origin" href="https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fvimeo.com%2F263684935&h=ATNP8nMxqt6qse05s5p7nKLW1LFOFm87h4z4jAfmL5ibdODIxKxRkVoBmFZCSIDZV0aH4_g0HSkEzpZ7JxDwvUxso5fiGfbNXAjW0LGn3tmQAULNRYhe5JEbHbqDwg8AUn5dPBtJj9aC" rel="nofollow" style="color: #365899; cursor: pointer; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://vimeo.com/263684935</a></span><br />
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<a href="https://vimeo.com/263684935">Winter Part 2</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user4693725">Alan Halewood</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-37838434860518977202018-02-18T11:29:00.001+00:002020-10-04T12:07:42.260+01:00One reason experienced winter climbers get avalanched.I've watched with interest the avalanche forecast and where climbers have been climbing this weekend. I've been winter climbing for just over 30 years now and have been in, on or in immediate proximity to friends in avalanches 4 times. More recently I've started trying to be very critically aware of why and how this happens.<br />
The concept of <a href="https://www.snoworks.co.uk/blog/?p=8937" target="_blank">heuristic traps</a> is now becoming well known in relation to avalanches. Heuristics are the simple 'rules of thumb' we employ, subconsciously, to make sense of complex information. When we get the answer wrong this becomes a 'trap' with potentially negative consequences. The bodies that study avalanches and provide our forecasts <a href="http://safos.org.uk/news-events/" target="_blank">The Snow and Avalanche Foundation of Scotland</a>, <a href="https://www.sais.gov.uk/" target="_blank">The Scottish Avalanche Information Service</a> and others (Instructors, Guides, Winter Mountain Leaders and other avalanche educators) promote the <a href="http://beaware.sais.gov.uk/" target="_blank">Be Avalanche Aware</a> process as a decision making tool to reduce the chances of us falling into these traps. Many novices to the winter environment are being introduced to this planning tool from the outset of their winter careers. Its a structured routine, a habit to fall into if you will, that provides a better framework for walkers/climbers and mountaineers to employ their experience when making decisions about where to go in the Scottish mountains.<br />
What's interesting to me is that I believe far fewer hill goers who are already competent and experienced are aware of or using the process and therein lies the problem. Rope work, use of crampons and axes, placing ice screws, even taking care of yourself in bad weather are nice closed skills that can be learnt and performed repeatedly and its relatively easy to distinguish when they are done competently or well. There is even often a 'right' or 'wrong' way to do them. Unfortunately the quality of decision making is a great deal harder to measure....<br />
As I go to the mountains and journey around each time I go out and don't get avalanched adds fuel to the belief that I'm making good decisions. Unfortunately this may be erroneous (nonsense). I may well have just been lucky. A few metres to the right or left, a degree steeper, a little more or less snow, humidity or temperature and I might have been avalanched. But the fact that I wasn't becomes a form of <a href="http://adventureblog.nationalgeographic.com/2016/01/21/more-skiers-are-getting-caught-in-avalanches-heres-why-they-ignore-the-dangers/" target="_blank">attribution bias</a>. This is where I dismiss luck and chance and attribute my success to my knowledge, skills, experience and ability; my Jedi like ability to 'read the snow'. This means I'll be inclined to repeat my actions again and again and often get away with it. Until the day I don't...<br />
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Note I'm not advocating that people take no risks at all... that's up to them. Just that we become more critically aware of what we are actually doing and how we are actually making decisions. For more on risk acceptance -including some cold hard figures- see this excellent article by Mike Austin of <a href="http://avalanchegeeks.com/" target="_blank">Avalanche Geeks</a>: <a href="https://journal.fatmap.com/avalanche-safety-series-part-2-hazard-risk-the-big-lie-59fb7e0994eb">https://journal.fatmap.com/avalanche-safety-series-part-2-hazard-risk-the-big-lie-59fb7e0994eb</a> and find some though provoking ideas from Phil Ebert on understanding your own competence on Page 22 here: <a href="https://static1.squarespace.com/static/59d2a0f0e9bfdf20d6d654b7/t/5a60031c8165f5dba0435b6b/1516241701613/TAR3304_LowRes.pdf">https://static1.squarespace.com/static/59d2a0f0e9bfdf20d6d654b7/t/5a60031c8165f5dba0435b6b/1516241701613/TAR3304_LowRes.pdf</a><br />
<br />Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-86925393812189436822018-02-11T15:42:00.002+00:002018-02-11T17:12:29.256+00:00The Winter so far...My Scottish Winter started 10 weeks ago! here is a 2 minute video of some of the highlights of what is shaping up to be a great season:
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<p><a href="https://vimeo.com/255259188">First 10 Weeks of Winter</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user4693725">Alan Halewood</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-82601667266570587762017-12-31T15:18:00.000+00:002017-12-31T15:18:30.675+00:003 minutes of the best of 2017Winter, summer and winter again... indoor walls and trips to northern Namibia and Eastern Greenland. Another great year. Here is a 3 minute video of some of my favourite images and clips from the last year. Have a cracking 2018 folks... see you on a crag or a hill!<br />
<br /><iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/249234939" width="572" height="318" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe>Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-47853739108909103552017-11-28T19:05:00.003+00:002017-11-28T19:05:55.487+00:00Day 2 in the big white wonderlandToday I'd inveigled Jon into another esoteric (don't you love some words- let the 2nd half of it flip off of your tongue... no?) venue and we made the hike up to Mullach nan Coirean's easternmost coire. There are some steep routes on the main buttress and many years ago Jamie and I scraped up the only thing in nick that day a IV,4 called Kid Gloves. There is a very short Grade 3 scramble in the coire noted in Lochaber Scrambles and a couple of other ridges that Mike Pescod mentions in the Cicerone Guide might give sport. That's what I fancied today, pinning my hopes on an accurate freezing level.<br />
Its a bit of a flog up the path cutting the zigzags next to the Allt a Choire Dheirg as forestry work has left lots of brashings and churned ground in the area but nonetheless just over 2 hours from the car and we had chosen the crest of the northern main buttress as our objective.<br />
The rubble and flat turf wasn't great as we started so I suggested a steep groove full of thin flakes for some snowed up rock left of the crest (easy for me to suggest, Jon was leading). This of course turned out to be less positive than it looked from below but there was protection and Jon's incredible 'go-go' gadget leg levered him up onto a ledge 20m above me for him to endure an epic bout of hot aches as the rocks rimed in front of me. Not one to hog the glory he brought me up to get some climbing (and clearing) in up the last of the steeper ground. I headed on another 30m over a few small walls to where the angle really eased back enjoying plenty of better frozen turf and rimed rocks. We dropped the rope here and the last 80-100m of Grade II were very reminiscent of Golden Oldy's easier bits.<br />
We topped out onto the ridge joining Mullach Nan Coirean to Stob Ban and were soon wading along its crest cursing as we stumbled on buried granite blocks. Finally rather than head up to descend Stob Ban's N ridge via its Grade I step we dropped into its NW coire, past the headwaters of the stream to traverse onto the ridge lower down pleased to be on more scoured ground now.<br />
Has the ridge been climbed before? Quite possibly. The right hand side of the crest had an easier powder filled gully but our left hand start gave us some good sport and the feeling of the unknown that is what its all about-so I don't mind one way or the other.<br />
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Walking in... better than expected</div>
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Our route started at the toe of the closer buttress and climbed rocky grooves this side of the crest</div>
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Jon sets off</div>
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"Climb over there Jon, it looks good!"</div>
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Following at exactly the same point as the last shot</div>
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Above the fun bit Jon left for me</div>
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Weather socking in a bit, Jon just below where last shot was taken from, rime building</div>
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Easier ground</div>
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Rope away</div>
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Tower at the top</div>
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Stepping down</div>
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Our line on the crest of the closer buttress seen from Glen Nevis</div>
Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-27004040779415739242017-11-27T22:03:00.001+00:002017-11-27T22:19:50.898+00:00An interrupted journey and the whitehouse.<div class="" data-block="true" data-editor="8il96" data-offset-key="a7r6i-0-0" style="font-family: 'helvetica neue', helvetica, arial, sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">
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<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: #eeeeee; font-size: xx-small;"><span data-offset-key="a7r6i-0-0" style="font-family: inherit;">The first route of winter is always an occasion. Today i was treated to a grand day out with 2 good mates, Jamie and Iain and some great snowy winter conditions. I enjoy the classics when in good condition but scratching around on Cairngorm Granite before the buildup or Ben ice routes with no ice are something I no longer look forwards to early season- and I don't climb hard enough to jump on to harder mixed routes as my first of the season- so I often go looking for a good mountaineering route or a little esoterica.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: #eeeeee; font-size: xx-small;"><span data-offset-key="a7r6i-0-0" style="font-family: inherit;">I've had my eye on the routes on the climbers right of the East Ridge of Carn Dearg Mheadhonach for a couple of years but conditions didn't coincide with time and partners. Having mentioned it to friends I noted that Scott and dave had been through a similar thought process a few days ago. I had little difficulty in persuading my pair of partners for today that it might be worth a punt.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black; color: #eeeeee; font-family: inherit;">The walk in was cold and the snow mid calf deep, occasionally worse and crusty and it wasn't until 1130 that we were in position to abseil down from the notch at the top of the ridge. From here we floundered and swam round to the base of "Perilous Journey" and Jamie led us up and awkward pitch to the base of a stunning slabby corner that Iain had expressed interest in. This interest waned markedly as we found the well sheltered and buried turf was both limited and distinctly 'pully'. A short investigation and a fruitless check for an alternative line and we were soon heading down again- feeling like we'd done more abseiling than climbing today. A discussion of limited daylight versus another pitch ensued and we were soon soling the way (I/II) first pitch of Casablanca. This is what Dave and Scott did recently reporting some loose rock... so it was with a little trepidation that I hauled on the hooks amongst stacked older on the knife edge. Everything held and I changed gear to push on a full rope length of good climbing (turf less sheltered here and better frozen although lots of digging still required) to the crest of the ridge before dark. </span></div>
<span style="color: #eeeeee;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Much banter and craic *aka bullying Iain over various things- he enjoys it) and a long walk down by </span></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">head torchin calm conditions. A good first day of the season! Cheers to Jamie for the pics of me climbing.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black; color: #eeeeee;"> <span style="font-size: 14px; white-space: normal;">Jamie eyeing Iain's idea of 'substantial tat'.... well he does only weigh about half as much as each of us!</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1d2129;"> </span><span style="background-color: black; color: #eeeeee; font-size: 14px; white-space: normal;">Jamie beginning our "Perilous Journey" questing for a route and gear.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black; color: #eeeeee;"> <span style="font-size: 14px; white-space: normal;">Iain setting out on the crux pitch of Perilous Journey. It apparently traverse right out of the corner higher up on "small ledges' and with "thin moves".</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black; color: #eeeeee; font-size: 14px; text-align: left; white-space: normal;">Discretion and all that. The gear and the turf together made the decision for us. None of us wanted this pitch so we interrupted the journey.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: #eeeeee;"><span style="color: #1d2129;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14px; white-space: normal;">Discretion and all that. The gear and the turf together made the decision for us. None of us wanted this pitch so we interrupted the journey.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black; color: #eeeeee;">Heading down again</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: #1d2129;"> </span><span style="color: #eeeeee; font-size: 14px; white-space: normal;">On the knife edge of Casablanca (The White House) wondering what's holding all these blocks in place.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black; color: #eeeeee;">Higher and a little happier</span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="31vvg-4-0" style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: black; color: #eeeeee; font-size: 14px; text-align: left; white-space: normal;">Last bit to the ridge crest and a glimpse of blue skies.</span></span></div>
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Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-70447553434763776282017-11-25T20:26:00.001+00:002017-11-25T20:26:44.862+00:00Catching up againOctober is traditionally when I take some family time during the half term holidays. This year we decided to take the kids to Morocco to give them a first taste of somewhere a little more exotic than Mallorca and as adventurous as last year's canoe trip in Canada.<br />
It was a roaring success. We spent 3 days camel trekking with our own guide and 3 camels (Sandy rode one, Jane and I had one each and Kaye rode with one of us). Then we transferred to the Atlas based in Amizmiz where an expat IML guided us in the mountains for 3 days. Kaye rode a mule this time (above some big drops- very brave) whilst the rest of us trotted along to keep up! Finally we went to Essaouira where Sandy learnt to surf from his mum whilst Kaye made it clear how she needed no help from me body boarding. We had a great trip experiencing only kindness from the Moroccans and roads that made the A82 look like a joke!<br />
Since then I had a last little mountain work before hitting the climbing walls both personally and for a round of courses. 2 CWA trainings, a CWA Assessment, FUNdas 1,2 and 3 (and another 1 and 2 to come this week), a CWLA Training and a CWLA Assessment, a day's staff training on floor walking, 2 Foundation Coach trainings and a challenging, fascinating Development Coach Training moderated by Martin from MT. I also made my annual trip to volunteer at Mountaineering Scotland's SMART weekend for students and attended 2 Mountain Training Scotland seminars (1 on the future changes in the Climbing Awards and 1 more general one that I presented a couple of afternoon sessions at). In between I've taken every opportunity to get back in the bouldering wall at Three Wise Monkeys in Fort William for some personal fun.<br />
Now the snow has arrived I've been waiting for sa day off to coincide with a cold spell rather than a thaw.... after the Adventure Sports Coaching Conference at Glenmore Lodge tomorrow I'll be getting my crampons back on for the first time since July in Greenland- whoopee!<br />
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Kids at Erg Chebbi</div>
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Not our camels</div>
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the only one crazy enough to share it with me</div>
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Kaye on trek</div>
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Steep ground</div>
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Sandy at Sidi Khaoki</div>
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Sandy can surf</div>
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Kaye on the body board</div>
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CWLA Assessment</div>
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CWLA training</div>
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Curved Ridge</div>
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Teaching Leading</div>
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SMART Weekend</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
FUNdas 1</div>
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FUNdas 2</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Development Coach Training</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-yuIoeUh_cr9HcHXTUw74YKZ6cyEGo0oPjMGmMZ3vL9isgnoX0mThyUUGPfFMzNQU378vbAEjd5vFEnJ7adNmdO0C9Fr78HVHl1Ec2TNvm9eCJOnqd-oHCiX0Glpv9Bev7s7w1PAF7S0/s1600/P1110806.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-yuIoeUh_cr9HcHXTUw74YKZ6cyEGo0oPjMGmMZ3vL9isgnoX0mThyUUGPfFMzNQU378vbAEjd5vFEnJ7adNmdO0C9Fr78HVHl1Ec2TNvm9eCJOnqd-oHCiX0Glpv9Bev7s7w1PAF7S0/s320/P1110806.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Foundation Coach Training</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPROIzgnY_q1kgi2V3tVIMVN3pxXFIKk-ezdKJR5xLQJqyhc2ydmCKkEKFUYx-YOtPnxjHm6viAsjv8mPloXqBZyKxm1ZKhtaBQ610wB0ukyzq1Yfd3L3bwPqcFz_gFNvwnC0CO4dVfdg/s1600/P1110852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPROIzgnY_q1kgi2V3tVIMVN3pxXFIKk-ezdKJR5xLQJqyhc2ydmCKkEKFUYx-YOtPnxjHm6viAsjv8mPloXqBZyKxm1ZKhtaBQ610wB0ukyzq1Yfd3L3bwPqcFz_gFNvwnC0CO4dVfdg/s320/P1110852.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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CWA Training</div>
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MTS Providers Seminar</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6GkP4wyFVetBxSx1UcvW_qhbgn7veqlRufmmrxbPrhieOk31xzawpSAFmglgTCoyJUfjrgZKij5kbzfNUVbCEkOrXBBr35dtv5Gw7Ro4aE0hO7oyE04inQckTEPl3CT7Xra4geaqfoIs/s1600/P1110936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="576" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6GkP4wyFVetBxSx1UcvW_qhbgn7veqlRufmmrxbPrhieOk31xzawpSAFmglgTCoyJUfjrgZKij5kbzfNUVbCEkOrXBBr35dtv5Gw7Ro4aE0hO7oyE04inQckTEPl3CT7Xra4geaqfoIs/s320/P1110936.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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FUNdas 3</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB-yYkhqFMBPkbq8jCmVUqphtKfTXr-MimnSI6n0AHxrFTpDJ6KwsWsbnAuikr_OkohlDN7o_boAFZzUPF77Z7u6C56d4h9YZeLUIP8_Exz33Rwc0q4PVllI9JKGbZJQY1-mBMdfDYoGE/s1600/P1110998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB-yYkhqFMBPkbq8jCmVUqphtKfTXr-MimnSI6n0AHxrFTpDJ6KwsWsbnAuikr_OkohlDN7o_boAFZzUPF77Z7u6C56d4h9YZeLUIP8_Exz33Rwc0q4PVllI9JKGbZJQY1-mBMdfDYoGE/s320/P1110998.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Brain dump from another Foundation Coach</div>
Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-392527221614438762017-10-02T08:35:00.000+01:002017-10-02T08:35:00.560+01:00Mountain Hardwear Scrambler 30 Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT24FvmRw1fVIM3kceBgR4X0XKSCOV1ofRulF-453TW1nuOYRAT4w_WAKJiW19uwgPKoF_v93ZB8TQMpPi5DGaBEVKBiveR_X35sKPc2-4A6TU0QE0FUOc8Alp4tiZGFhABtL7Zz8o9Hk/s1600/P1090630.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT24FvmRw1fVIM3kceBgR4X0XKSCOV1ofRulF-453TW1nuOYRAT4w_WAKJiW19uwgPKoF_v93ZB8TQMpPi5DGaBEVKBiveR_X35sKPc2-4A6TU0QE0FUOc8Alp4tiZGFhABtL7Zz8o9Hk/s320/P1090630.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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MH Scrambler 30 on a dry day on Buachaille Etive Mor</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Over the past 2 months I’ve been testing a
<a href="https://www.nevisport.com/mountain-hardwear-scrambler-30-outdry-pack" target="_blank">Mountain Hardwear Scrambler 30 Rucksack</a> from <a href="https://www.nevisport.com/" target="_blank">Nevisport</a>. It arrived just in time
to accompany me as my daysack on a 4 week trip to Greenland where it was in
constant use. Since then its done 17 graded scrambles in Lochaber and a
navigation day in the Cairngorms. Its been tossed in planes, trains, boats,
buses and cars, had a rifle strapped to it for a couple of weeks (bear
protection in Greenland) and seen everything from baking sun to West Highland
rain that penetrated 2 layers of waterproof jackets…. So what is the verdict?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLHxFj5nlbbvH4VDe-VRvHWOUinxry_X_2Ui0XPogvkUjTaMX5KSj9v45LiQVhtW4kVR1ehZoHWRDcBY1UsPMhu4KfQ9xv3W33O2flmDtabUC6bWfEOmyT92i9U8xcTwkKCOZK9sItMv8/s1600/P1070320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLHxFj5nlbbvH4VDe-VRvHWOUinxry_X_2Ui0XPogvkUjTaMX5KSj9v45LiQVhtW4kVR1ehZoHWRDcBY1UsPMhu4KfQ9xv3W33O2flmDtabUC6bWfEOmyT92i9U8xcTwkKCOZK9sItMv8/s320/P1070320.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB">Out of the packet:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Its bright and colourful (a colleague told
me I was easy to spot in the mist the other day), simple (a minimum of gimmicks
and fiddly straps) and the material feels tougher than most other waterproof
bags I’ve used, especially on the lid. Although not a lightweight pack it
doesn’t feel particularly heavy when empty.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYiiG_w9IXn5eilOAFFU7kBNYD1Ln9ugZHRoimFAHjGKIHWi-Bh9JasnTbXWST7mz0j168jY2FIbSYmkVUoK9E5LEieAqa1NbYvepBhbvtiI89ZQ96j0G9xekngO1TmXEDH69JxQqDPfk/s1600/P1080377.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1600" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYiiG_w9IXn5eilOAFFU7kBNYD1Ln9ugZHRoimFAHjGKIHWi-Bh9JasnTbXWST7mz0j168jY2FIbSYmkVUoK9E5LEieAqa1NbYvepBhbvtiI89ZQ96j0G9xekngO1TmXEDH69JxQqDPfk/s320/P1080377.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Nordvestfjord, Scoresbysund, East Greenland-1000m straight down</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVlorw-KGaDZJh4HslaHLmh4DBGrT1fIeNCa8pf7lW9l0pmjaGd5T8d8r-88TxWH_PRSmJh_B6l7RDBIEHS9MM550Rizs6A1TYeLUVVjEUsbPeCGqCZPUDnzWwqsXOiSUD9XT0A8Po6iE/s1600/21124974_1592096830841715_1528124207_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="852" data-original-width="1136" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVlorw-KGaDZJh4HslaHLmh4DBGrT1fIeNCa8pf7lW9l0pmjaGd5T8d8r-88TxWH_PRSmJh_B6l7RDBIEHS9MM550Rizs6A1TYeLUVVjEUsbPeCGqCZPUDnzWwqsXOiSUD9XT0A8Po6iE/s320/21124974_1592096830841715_1528124207_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB">Tower Gap, Ben Nevis</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Load carrying:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Its small for my needs. Guiding and
Instructing I’ve often got food, drink, personal clothing, a group shelter, a
comprehensive first aid kit, other emergency kit, map and compass, headtorch, a
harness, some climbing rack and a helmet to fit inside the bag (helmets on the
outside get lost or damaged too easily for me). I’m used to putting my rope inside
too. So the first thing I did was start carrying my rope across my body in alpine
coils and was surprised to find that, albeit with careful packing, everything
else went inside with the lid closing right over. This is an important point as
the rucksack is not a roll-top design so if the lid doesn’t cover the top its
waterproofness will be compromised. There are side pockets on the sac but, in
particular when mountaineering I prefer to keep everything inside the bag so nothing
can be lost. I would only use the open side pockets when the rest of the bag
was full and when it was stuffed the side pockets are too tight to fit much
more than a map in. They did however take my z walking poles when being
transported on the bag on the way to the start of hill days. There is a rope
carrying strap on top too but similarly when the bag is full the lid is a bit
too tight to fit a rope under and maintain a weatherproof seal. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAs9llResXCIRl4DratUynMWDwIdShsIdDBcf_Cgnh6-ya8tDIdro2JjgvUO1Iib4w7UkJVNcAWkBj2oGgLn8pqAVex7aFIaBY_IBY1rGmO2C1EWRXr93N_T_Mp88rJgRkZ9deY_TP6IY/s1600/21034443_10159428038845195_6404808741990104546_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAs9llResXCIRl4DratUynMWDwIdShsIdDBcf_Cgnh6-ya8tDIdro2JjgvUO1Iib4w7UkJVNcAWkBj2oGgLn8pqAVex7aFIaBY_IBY1rGmO2C1EWRXr93N_T_Mp88rJgRkZ9deY_TP6IY/s320/21034443_10159428038845195_6404808741990104546_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The Scrambler 30 is a lot more stable than this rock!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">In use walking
and scrambling it sits well on the back and I’ve never felt any discomfort when
it was heavily loaded. The pack conforms well to the body and shows no
inclination to swing around affecting your balance. It comes with a sleeve for
a water bladder but I don’t use one (perfect for my laptop when travelling
however).</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYas5fMj8UrK1RiGVx1IKGOvjjWBmoEtyMp5ZZNWeMsQ3ERn_kIqtVDV6xa2DpYHduc944nAjQwTgKpAeUc_LtMNbG10Pigf3PjLOTeiwy_QP1XN1Cv3XRGEemGljMK20oGr9tg1jXe-g/s1600/P1070381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYas5fMj8UrK1RiGVx1IKGOvjjWBmoEtyMp5ZZNWeMsQ3ERn_kIqtVDV6xa2DpYHduc944nAjQwTgKpAeUc_LtMNbG10Pigf3PjLOTeiwy_QP1XN1Cv3XRGEemGljMK20oGr9tg1jXe-g/s320/P1070381.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Hand luggage</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2F5VbZW8_y9_bY_LwVlbyjSKCDqWh_EP3fDf5vCNTKKcm2Zgn56XLM_-Ak9R6ncrNO-cEtgKhQ0ZZYnTbLk3g621wC-3mxZEfwWQ2nS0qXtJKp9PByuupd4DMVe6IeNaJ9tkTHw_QsGU/s1600/21908092_10159292594200103_1010622457_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2F5VbZW8_y9_bY_LwVlbyjSKCDqWh_EP3fDf5vCNTKKcm2Zgn56XLM_-Ak9R6ncrNO-cEtgKhQ0ZZYnTbLk3g621wC-3mxZEfwWQ2nS0qXtJKp9PByuupd4DMVe6IeNaJ9tkTHw_QsGU/s320/21908092_10159292594200103_1010622457_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Descending Ledge Route on Ben Nevis</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVLfHoXT9UsyZu4rUzW_Ygy5mtm37dUDOsRlm6uW-vmJty_yDwgH3UFAKdhwfZ-9gKbp4kSbgKPqrpS1DBV4cfp1f9ZDqHhFU_1xac1JkV6MUsVvx2ftrXcW63ktAdKLtv9oMHGrj-M1Y/s1600/P1090290.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVLfHoXT9UsyZu4rUzW_Ygy5mtm37dUDOsRlm6uW-vmJty_yDwgH3UFAKdhwfZ-9gKbp4kSbgKPqrpS1DBV4cfp1f9ZDqHhFU_1xac1JkV6MUsVvx2ftrXcW63ktAdKLtv9oMHGrj-M1Y/s320/P1090290.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-GB">Greenland Boat Journey</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Waterpoofness and durability:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">The bag was initially used as hand baggage
from Scotland to Iceland and beyond to East Greenalnd and it’s a perfect size
for this. Then it was used on a choppy 2 day boat journey frequently splashed
with salt water. It was used for about 16 days walking in Greenland including
on the first ascent of a new 2200m peak. It was dropped, sat upon, scraped
against gneiss crags and generally abused but always in sunny weather. At the
end of this the padding on the back showed a small nick from the foresight of a
rifle but the Outdry shell material looked pristine. Back in the UK its done 17
scrambles in Lochaber and had 5 days complete soaking. The contents have been
completely dry until I’ve put wet kit into it late in the day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGr06vR5LRT5eCYecZLb2UTF3tshfIUjZJNFbe4oM4bOQ6D6Uor9MLSSmnt3mLV8iC6E64xNgr_50bOSZDVhh0ewzDwMaWke2YL5S7syHpd-WUZtWsucQ-hidX1yW9TaiBSjJKzMAV2M/s1600/P1090629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGr06vR5LRT5eCYecZLb2UTF3tshfIUjZJNFbe4oM4bOQ6D6Uor9MLSSmnt3mLV8iC6E64xNgr_50bOSZDVhh0ewzDwMaWke2YL5S7syHpd-WUZtWsucQ-hidX1yW9TaiBSjJKzMAV2M/s320/P1090629.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-GB">West Highland wetness? No problem for this bag!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Summary:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">If you are looking for a reasonably priced,
tough and durable waterproof sack in the 30l range then look no further. It
would suit a day walker/solo scrambler perfectly. If you want to carry climbing
gear or a rack and rope too I’d go directly to one of its slightly larger Outdry
cousins such as the <a href="https://www.nevisport.com/mountain-hardwear-scrambler-rt-40-outdry-pack" target="_blank">Mountain Hardwear Scrambler RT 40</a> (which has both a rollmop closure and a lid) which I popped in to
<a href="https://www.nevisport.com/" target="_blank">Nevisport</a> to check out. These look just as well put together. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB">My own <a href="https://www.nevisport.com/mountain-hardwear-scrambler-30-outdry-pack" target="_blank">Scrambler 30</a> is going to be a
mainstay of my rucksack selection through this winter.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Hard use in Lochaber</div>
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First Ascent of .2201m Hinks Land East Greenland</div>
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Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-54485163246153140692017-10-01T21:18:00.003+01:002017-10-01T21:18:29.393+01:00Climbing Wall Award TrainingOn my way home from Wales I stopped off to run a <a href="http://www.mountain-training.org/about/about-mountain-training-scotland" target="_blank">Mountain Training Scotland</a> <a href="http://www.mountain-training.org/climbing/awards/climbing-wall-leading-award" target="_blank">Climbing Wall Award</a> Training Course at <a href="https://www.perth.uhi.ac.uk/academy-of-sport-and-wellbeing/climbing-centre-1" target="_blank">Perth UHI Climbing Wall</a>. 3 people came along on the course including another <a href="http://www.mountain-training.org/associations/ami" target="_blank">AMI</a> member Jess who was there to get an insight into the differences between working outside and at the wall. The climbing wall environment is different from the outdoor crags I also teach on and has its own restrictions and opportunities. I really enjoy working on these courses and helping give candidates some great coaching tools and an insight into the high level of planning and judgment required to coach the widest range of new lead climbers on artificial walls.<br />
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<br />Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-76571047040589856832017-10-01T20:41:00.000+01:002017-10-01T20:41:16.770+01:00Association of British Climbing Walls AGM The <a href="https://www.abcwalls.co.uk/about/" target="_blank">ABC</a> began in 1994 as an informal organisation for Climbing Walls to discuss issues of mutual interest. By 1997 it grew into a more formalised members association open to a wider range of walls. Today it is a large organisation representing the greatest body of knowledge on good practise in the running all manner of artificial climbing structures in the UK and attracts interest from round the world. Its offspring the ABCTT (ABC Training Trust) runs <a href="http://www.nicas.co.uk/" target="_blank">NICAS</a> the phenomenally successful participation scheme which has introduced and guided over 100000 people into indoor climbing.<br />
I first attended a meeting some time around 2000 and am now an Associate Member and sit on the Training Committee to reflect my role as a Technical Advisor for a number of Climbing Walls.<br />
I always find the AGM and the associated seminars interesting and informative and its been fascinating watching the Association becoming more professional over the years. This year was no exception and it was great to see a new paid Officer and plans to develop and finance the association to the members into the future. There were sessions on: the Climbing Awards Review, Peer Belaying, Wall Anchors, the new EN Standards, Routesetting, Autobelays, Leadership and Teamwork, Employment Law a report on Market Research done into Climbing Walls and more... Its also a chance to network and meet friends old and new. Great to see support from <a href="https://www.walltopia.com/" target="_blank">Walltopia</a> and others such as <a href="https://lyon.co.uk/" target="_blank">Lyon Equipment</a>, <a href="http://dmmclimbing.com/" target="_blank">DMM</a>, <a href="http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/homepage" target="_blank">Black Diamond</a>, <a href="https://www.climbingwallservices.com/" target="_blank">Climbing Wall Services</a> all present. It was also great to grab a few routes at <a href="https://www.beaconclimbing.com/" target="_blank">The Beacon</a> since it was too grim to get a quick route in before the journey north!<br />
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<br />Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-81233462542560944432017-09-26T22:15:00.002+01:002017-09-26T22:15:53.105+01:00Training and AssessingAt the weekend I was working with Sandy Paterson for Mountain Training Scotland on a 2 days workshop looking at how we Train and Assess NGB Candidates. Those attending were a mix of newer, experienced and aspiring Trainers and Assessors and it was great to see everyone sharing ideas on how to get the best from candidates. For the last couple of days I've been putting some of that into practise on an SPA Training course based in Glasgow. We had a mixture of weather and it was nice top see a 50/50 gender split on the course too. More pics and captions on Facebook: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pg/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1674404962594313">https://www.facebook.com/pg/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1674404962594313</a><br />
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<br />Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-10840975248158667902017-09-21T15:13:00.002+01:002017-09-21T15:13:39.711+01:003 scrambles in Lochaber3 day's mountaineering for <a href="http://www.stevenfallon.co.uk/" target="_blank">Steve Fallon</a> with MIA Trainee Kieran to assist me whilst working towards his Assessment.<br />
First up was a lovely day on the Aonach Eagach with Jay, Peter and Shona. The team made good time over the ridge on a relatively quiet day after the crowds of the Skyrun at the weekend and we descended off the west end to prolong our stunning view out to Ardgour.<br />
Day 2 was just as nice. Peter and Jay were out again this time with Julia to complete the team. Grins all round as we had dry rock and great views. Lunch on the summit and this team were game for a little more so we came down Great Gully Buttress to complete the day!<br />
Day 3 and it was only ever going to be 2 out of 3 for the weather unfortunately. Lorne Alastair and Gregor headed in with full waterproofs on but Gregor turned back before the ridge with a niggling knee injury bothering him (skiing is obviously more dangerous than mountaineering). The rest of us got a good soaking but enjoyed Tower Ridge nonetheless. Another swift ascent meant we had time to enjoy Ledge Route as our way down.<br />
Well done all of you!<br />
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<br />Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-82485327017592746882017-09-21T14:57:00.001+01:002017-09-21T14:57:15.346+01:00Catching up. Just over 7 weeks since a blog post! A great month in Greenland... icebergs in light that seemed to glow with so much body you could cut it with a knife. A nice first ascent and time spent with wonderful folk. Since then? Up Tower Ridge and down Ledge Route 3 times, Curved Ridge 3 times (down Great Gully Buttress twice), the Aonach Eagach twice, Ledge Route in the rain for some first timers, up and down Dinnertime Buttress, an MIA Assessment with rock climbing at Dunked twice, Huntly's Cave once, Polldubh once and a very wet Cairngorm Nav day, a CWA Assessment, an SPA Assessment and a little quality time with the family...Its a grand life if you don't weaken...<br />
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Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-66890408137908444112017-07-28T13:41:00.001+01:002017-07-28T13:41:52.572+01:00Arriving in GreenlandI love the Arctic. The light and the stark, uncompromising environment. I also love the fact that coming to Greenland I'm not going to have to worry about crowds, altitude or 'delhi belly' compared to some other expedition locations I've been to.<br />
I'm safely ensconced at the <a href="http://tangent-expeditions.co.uk/" target="_blank">Tangent Expeditions</a> basecamp at Constablepynt Airport in NE Greenland. I have a group arriving in a few days to try to climb <i>Ingmikortilaq </i>('The place that looks like an island') which is a triple summited rocky peninsula that looks rather like 3 Skye Munros dumped in the sea. It sits in the furthest north part of Scoresbysund, the world's largest fjord system and attached to Hinks Land by a thin strip of raised ground. On the north side is Nordvestfjord and in turn at the nearby head of this is Daugard-Jensen Gletscher which calves directly into the fjord providing the bulk of the icebergs that slowly drift out down Scoresbysund to the open ocean.<br />
My team of 4 plus me will take a long boat journey with one of the local Inuits from Ittoqortoormiit and after we've sited a basecamp we have 12 days to explore the area. As well as the rocky summit we have the option of heading up onto the local glaciated peaks. There is no record of anything being climbed in the area but with various geological expeditions dating back to Lauge Koch's epic sea plane supported trips in the 50s you never quite know who has done exactly what. Hopefully these peaks will be a little too remote or technical to have seen previous ascents but that's not my prime motivation for visiting anyway.<br />
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Google earth image of Ingmikortilaq</div>
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Owing to flights I have a few days here in Constablepynt. Its my 6th trip to the area (Milne Land, Gaase Land an epic 8 day blizzarded ski retreat across the fjord from Volkaarts Boons Coast, a N-S traverse of Liverpool Land and our amazing Catalina trip to Faxe So) and I've also been to Ausmannadalen in West Greenland and Svalbard with my (then soon to be) wife, Jane. The Arctic has given me some the best times of my life. Tangent now have a great base here; raised (to keep them above spring snow and melt) shipping containers used for storage and converted as staff bunkrooms and an HQ <a href="http://www.weatherhaven.com/products/soft-shelters/polar-shelters/" target="_blank">Weatherhaven</a> with small kitchen, workshop, electricity and even some wifi piggy backed from the airport. This all forms an essential base for the busy spring expedition season supported by the <a href="https://vimeo.com/64560483" target="_blank">Snow Dragons</a> (skidoos) permanently based there.</div>
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I'll have a gentle start to the trip sorting food, tents, stoves, climbing gear, comms and emergency kit waiting for the team to arrive and then local boatman Ole will take us north on a boat journey that should take about 20 hours... excited!</div>
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Amazing what you can do with a small shipping container</div>
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Tangent HQ</div>
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On the rise walkway</div>
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A la carte dining in the Arctic!</div>
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Last night, after dinner, I took a walk down to the coast to admire and take pictures of some small grounded 'berry bits'. The evening light as the sun lowers (it doesn't go all the way down) is lovely. There were Arctic Terns and a Long Tailed Skua around and a great view (if you turn your back to the airport!). Everything is a little further away than you think out here, the quality of the air seems to shorten distances so with a decent wee hike its important to take the right tools, including a rifle. Bears are rare in the area in the summer but always a possibility. A few more pics on: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pg/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1618249094876567">https://www.facebook.com/pg/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1618249094876567</a></div>
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Grounded bergy bit</div>
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Long Tailed Skua overhead</div>
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Melting... Liverpool Land beyond</div>
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Looking down Hurry Fjord from the beach</div>
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Not a bad spot for an evening stroll</div>
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Lines in the sand</div>
Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-81022655122219844792017-07-19T20:16:00.000+01:002017-07-19T20:16:36.440+01:00Coaching Climbing with Eve and Amy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Eve and Amy came with a brief to look at some technical and psychological issues to give them more confidence in their multi-pitch climbing and we were lucky enough with a dry, breezy (almost too breezy!) day at Polldubh meaning we could get lots of climbing for limited walking.</div>
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We started with a little warm up and some bouldering giving them some technique pointers. Amy is a super precise twinkle toes climber shifting her weight very well but seemed to lack some more dynamic tools which can be useful at times. Eve moved generally well and more confidently but not as precisely as her climbing partner.</div>
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With these things to think about we got stuck in on our first route and I thought I'd overcooked it. Eve's good movement suffered on the first lead but at least this gave us plenty to talk about in terms of coping strategies and she committed in the end and was soon rigging the first belay. Here as Amy arrived we were able to tidy up their transition at the stance quite a bit and then Amy made short work of a second pitch. Now Eve decided to strap he guns on and take the harder finishing option which was led with less input from me (well done!).</div>
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After a wee review and a bite to eat we were on to another route. Amy again showed her excellent footwork on the bottom of 3 Pines but we were able to make some improvements on planning and racking gear. Eve styled the second pitch getting good gear and cruising through the roof confirming that when its steep, positive and 3-d she's happy and that its the more tenuous, open slabs that feel like her weaker area.</div>
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A quick abseil off with the clouds coming in and a last chat through lessons learnt for the day and we were down. Thanks for an interesting day Eve and Amy and thank you for letting MIA Trainee Mehmet observe throughout. More pics and captions on: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1608923549142455">https://www.facebook.com/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1608923549142455</a></div>
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<br />Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-68088426639797612182017-07-18T21:34:00.001+01:002017-07-18T21:34:14.706+01:00T-Shirts on Tower Ridge<span style="background-color: black; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #eeeeee;">Great to see Jenny back today. We've done some winter climbing and other things in the past and she wanted a good day out with a bit of mountaineering teaching input. She's doing a PhD in Geology and spends time in Antarctica collecting samples based at a Norwegian base (lucky thing) and I learnt things about dating the exposure of rocks as ice retreats that I didn't even know i didn't know. She'd had a nightmare journey up the A82 (which is about as fit for purpose as a chocolate t-spoon) and we didn't get away from the car until well after 11 but Jenny's fit and moves well so were on the plateau before 3 and had found time to do a little teaching and answer some of her questions. Soon nice to be in a T-shirt the whole way up. My Rab Boreas came out of the bag on the plateau as it was quite windy up there but it was soon off again as we romped down Ledge Route (via a quick peak at the saxifrages in No.4 Gully). We even had time to bathe our hot feet in the Allt a Mhuillin! Has been a pretty ropey summer weather wise but today showed the Highlands at their best and when the The Outdoor Capital of the UK is like this its are tough to beat! More pics and captions at: </span></span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/pg/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1607936455907831">https://www.facebook.com/pg/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1607936455907831</a><br />
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<br />Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-78107486355221968872017-07-16T20:29:00.000+01:002017-07-16T20:29:00.893+01:00Tower Ridge and Ledge Route<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: #eeeeee;"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; white-space: pre-wrap;">A bit wetter than expected but sheltered from the wind on Tower Ridge today with MIA Trainee Adam who was taking up Juri and Marcin. We even got a few views from Ledge Route in descent. Captions at: </span>https://www.facebook.com/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1605800546121422</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-36544303481825917852017-07-11T21:38:00.001+01:002017-07-11T21:38:12.012+01:00<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: #eeeeee;"><span data-offset-key="7v6pt-0-0" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Today I was directing a </span><span class="_247o" data-offset-key="7v6pt-1-0" spellcheck="false" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span data-offset-key="7v6pt-1-0" style="font-family: inherit;"><span data-text="true" style="font-family: inherit;">Mountain Training Scotland</span></span></span><span data-offset-key="7v6pt-2-0" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> <a href="http://www.mountain-training.org/climbing/awards/climbing-wall-leading-award" target="_blank">Climbing Wall Leading Award</a> Training at </span><span class="_247o" data-offset-key="7v6pt-3-0" spellcheck="false" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span data-offset-key="7v6pt-3-0" style="font-family: inherit;"><span data-text="true" style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://www.perth.uhi.ac.uk/academy-of-sport-and-wellbeing/leisure-facilities/climbing-centre-1" target="_blank">Perth College Climbing Centre</a></span></span></span><span data-offset-key="7v6pt-4-0" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; white-space: pre-wrap;">. Always a great fun and interesting course to work on, lots of exercises and games but more importantly lots of thought about how this could fit together to develop new leaders. More pics and captions on: </span></span></span>https://www.facebook.com/pg/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1600304823337661<br />
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Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-4096816008166760442017-07-09T18:12:00.001+01:002017-07-09T18:12:46.664+01:00Wet day on Curved Ridge<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: #eeeeee;"><span data-offset-key="79bj4-0-0" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; white-space: pre-wrap;">The weather forecast was teasing me as at one stage it looked like we'd get a dry afternoon but last night the Met Office settled on wet all day and they were right. Nonetheless there were plenty of smiles as "At least we've got the route to ourself!" from the 2 Daves and Lorne as we mountaineered our way over the summit. Short on views, long on banter! Working again for </span><span class="_247o" data-offset-key="79bj4-1-0" spellcheck="false" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span data-offset-key="79bj4-1-0" style="font-family: inherit;"><span data-text="true" style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://www.stevenfallon.co.uk/" target="_blank">Steven Fallon Mountain Guiding</a>. Captions on: </span></span></span>https://www.facebook.com/pg/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1598009166900560</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: #eeeeee;"><br /></span></span>Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-54654559430370055062017-07-08T17:37:00.001+01:002017-07-08T17:37:33.989+01:00Dry day on the Aonach Eagach<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: black; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><span style="color: #eeeeee;">Such a pleasure to be out on a more pleasant day today. Apparently there has been some warm weather down south but we haven't seen so much of that up here! That just makes a good dry day out on the UK's finest mainland ridge scramble all the better. Well done to James, Chris, David and MIA Trainee John who fairly flew across the ridge today. We didn't use the rope for the first down climb but then when it went on after the first Munro it gave the team the confidence to move well. I like a helmet of the ridge myself as I've had plenty of experience of folk dropping rocks on me on it! Thanks to <a href="http://www.stevenfallon.co.uk/" target="_blank">Steven Fallon Mountain Guiding</a> for the great work and nice to see Scott Kirkhope out working too. More pics and captions on: </span></span><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: #eeeeee;">https://www.facebook.com/pg/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1596864143681729</span></span></div>
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<br />Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-41284278752510594122017-06-30T19:31:00.001+01:002017-06-30T19:31:11.497+01:00AMI Trainee Workshop Day 2-Dry Rock<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: #f3f3f3;"><span data-offset-key="dqb7c-0-0" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Second day of the </span><span class="_247o" data-offset-key="dqb7c-1-0" spellcheck="false" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span data-offset-key="dqb7c-1-0" style="font-family: inherit;"><span data-text="true" style="font-family: inherit;">Association of Mountaineering Instructors</span></span></span><span data-offset-key="dqb7c-2-0" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Trainee workshop and today was all about climbing: parallel, series, series to parallel, teaching progressions, options for descent and even the odd problem to solve. Glad it was drier today! Captions at: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pg/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1587532551281555">https://www.facebook.com/pg/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1587532551281555</a></span></span></div>
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<br />Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7078134383480561737.post-15706489717251059312017-06-29T19:58:00.001+01:002017-06-29T19:58:39.836+01:00AMI Trainee Workshop day 1-pass the dry pants!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: #f3f3f3;"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-align: center;">Wet and remarkably cold today (think more like late October than July) on Curved Ridge. It was a challenge to maintain a learning environment and to prevent the day becoming survival only for the 3 MIA Trainees I was working with on day one of an Association of Mountaineering Instructors Trainee Workshop. Nonetheless each of us took a turn mountaineering the team up the route and we paused in descent to look at a couple of technical issues when getting a team down over a steep drop too. Drier tomorrow I hope! Captions on </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/pg/climbwhenyoureready/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1586330931401717" target="_blank">Facebook</a>.</span></span></span></span></div>
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Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12798748187251090782noreply@blogger.com0