A Kiwi’s Journey

Malolo Island

2009-10-01T00:07:00.001-07:00

This post contains some memorable photograph from a recent vacation to Malolo Island in the Mamanuca archipelagos, west of the Fijian main island of Viti Levu.

Like most tourist we arrived in Fiji at Nadi International Airport. From the airport we made our way to Port Denarau on the west coast of Viti Levu to board a SeaFiji speed boat to Malolo Island.

We arrived at the Malolo Island Resort (one of several resorts on the island) early in the evening. We were surprised to be greeted by the resort staff on the jetty (pictured below). The staff were singing a welcome song and presented us with decorative shell necklace.

We stayed in a cute little bungalow (or “bure”) located less than 30 meters from the crystal clear water.

The beach area consisted of a relatively narrow stretch of golden coarse grained sand. The island’s coral reef was conveniently located less than 30 meters offshore, excellent for casual snorkeling. Alternatively, one could relax in one of the resort provided deck chairs or hammocks.

Adjacent the resort’s dining area was this beautifully landscaped, but rarely used, split-level pool.

One afternoon as we were dining for lunch, this chap fell from the heavens onto our table. We were just a tad freaked out.

A few fellow guests kayaking in calm waters of the early morning.

Enjoying a Piña colada in the resort’s bar and watching the sunset.

Every evening, shortly after sunset one of the resort’s staff performs a somewhat tacky but spectacular torch lighting ceremony.

View from the dinning area overlooking the pool and musicians playing Fijian and contemporary western music.

On the final night of our stay, the resort prepared traditional Fijian fare and invited a local group to perform. The performance was concluded with a touching farewell to departing guests.

Due to the late arrival in Fiji we had to charter a speed boat to the island. For the return trip to the main island we boarded the South Sea Cruises catamaran.

That concludes my brief review of our short but enjoyable stay in Fiji at the Malolo Island Resort. The food was much better than I expected for an isolated resort and there were plenty of scheduled and unscheduled activities. Many activities like kayaking, windsurfing, sailing and offshore snorkeling were free. Lastly, I was very impressed with the kind and generous nature of the Fijian people. Definitely worth a revisit!

Note: This post is not endorsed by the Malolo Island Resort. There are probably dozens of comparable resorts all along the Mamanuca and Yasawa archipelagos. Please consult with a travel review site (such as Trip Advisor) to find the best resort that fits your needs, financial or otherwise. Happy Travels.

Vietnam

2009-07-01T01:16:00.001-07:00

These are some picture from my vacation to Vietnam in January of 2008.

New Year’s Eve 2007 downtown Ho Chi Minh City (or Saigon)

Xôi (or glutinous rice) vendor catering to New Year celebrants

Reunification Palace, Ho Chi Minh City

A Huey helicopter parked on the roof of the Reunification Palace.

Balloon vendor

Roasting suckling pig. Before…

…and after.

Durian vendor

Rượu thuốc (liquor with preserved scorpion and cobra)

Goldfish vendor

Fruit and produce market

Sunset, Đà Nẵng

Cham ruins in Mỹ Sơn

Fertility monument in Mỹ Sơn

Mỹ Sơn

Mausoleum of Emperor Khải Định in Huế

Musicians in Huế

The car that transported Thích Quảng Đức shortly his self-immolation.

School girl wearing traditional Áo dài

Household goods merchant in open market

Vĩ tuyến 17 (or The Seventeenth parallel)

Entrance to Phong Nha cave

Inside the Phong Nha cave

View from our hotel in Đồng Hới

Unusual “natural” formation inside Hang Sung Sot cave in the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park.

Phong Nha cave

Hạ Long Bay

Woman selling seafood in Hạ Long Bay

Thien Cung Grotto in Hạ Long Bay

Boats waiting for tourist at Hạ Long Bay

Variety of Vietnamese tropical fruit (Rambutan, Pitaya, Papaya, Custard Apple and the infamous Durian)

Xich Lo (or rickshaw) driver waiting for customers

Nha Trang skyline at night

View from our hotel in the 11th district of Southern Vietnam

Yummy seafood noodle soup

A young man selling lottery tickets

Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica (or Nhà thờ Đức Bà Sài Gòn)

Kyoto

2009-05-21T22:21:00.001-07:00

Pictures of Kyoto, Japan from March, 2004.

The bathroom in my Kyoto Hotel was super tiny!

The Kiyomizu-dera

The Otowa-no-taki

Trying my luck in a Pachinko parlor.

Kyoto Station

Kyoto Tower

View from Kyoto Tower

The Shinkansen

Cairo

2009-05-20T23:24:00.001-07:00

Images from Cairo, Egypt in 2006.

The Sun Boat.

Favorite Pictures

2009-05-16T15:09:00.001-07:00

Palm Canyon, Palm Springs, California

Bellagio Hotel, Las Vegas, Nevada

Paris Hotel and Casino, Las Vegas, Nevada

Unknown exhibit, Norton Simon, Pasadena, California

Cactus Garden, The Huntington, Pasadena, California

View from M&J’s old house in Te Kuiti, New Zealand

Breakfast in unknown cafe in New Zealand

The day after it snowed in and around Las Vegas, Nevada (12/30/2003)

Joshua Tree National Park, California

Mojave Desert, California

Redlands, California

Spring in the Joshua National Park, California

Nana’s garden, Te Kuiti, New Zealand

San Francisco, California

Yosemite National Park, California

Interstate Freeway 10 west of Palm Springs, California

Flamingo Hotel, Las Vegas, Nevada

The Venetian, Las Vegas, Nevada

Lake Badwater in Death Valley, California

Artist’s Palette, Death Valley, California

Grand Canyon, Arizona

Prague, Czech Republic

Palace of Versailles, France

Central Park, New York, New York

Carnival’s Paradise moored at Ensenada, Mexico

Sunset over San Bernardino county

Death Valley, California

Badwater, Death Valley, California
The lowest point (-86m) in North America on land.

Chinatown, San Francisco, California

Night street view, San Francisco, California

Puerto Galera

2009-05-15T21:30:00.001-07:00

In November 2003, I spent two weeks on a diving resort on Sabang Beach close to Puerto Galera. Puerto Galera is the main city on the island of Oriental Mindoro in the Philippines south of Manila.

I arrived on the beach from Batangas on the mainland in one of these motorized outriggers.

The beach is lined with coconut trees and fishing vessels.

I stayed in the Villa Sabang Beach Resort. This was the view from my chalet.

One day I rented a motorbike and explored along the coast. I found this hidden picture perfect beach.

The villa operated a diving enterprise called Octopus Divers, a PADI certified school and dive club.

A clown fish.

Moray eel.

The iconic and unforgettable Jeepneys.

Heading home…

Technorati Tags: Sabang Beach,Puerto Galera,Oriental Mindoro,Philippines

Sulawesi

2009-05-15T00:20:00.001-07:00

Early in 2001, John (a good friend of mine) and I travelled to the Indonesian province of Sulawesi. Below are a few scanned photographs of that trip.

TANA TORAJA

Tana Toraja is a central region of Sulawesi. The region is famed for its traditional villages, unique architecture and fascinating culture.

This family offered John and I shelter during a tropical downpour.

The Tana Torajan Funeral

Tomate (funeral) literally means dead person, and of all Torajan ceremonies the most important are those concerned with sending a dead person to the afterworld. Without proper funeral rites the spirit of the deceased will cause misfortune to its family. The funeral sacrifices, ceremonies and feasts also impress the gods with the importance of the deceased, so that the spirit can intercede effectively on behalf of living relatives.

Sons and daughters of the deceased have an equal chance to inherit their parents' property, but their share depends on the number of buffaloes they slaughter at the funeral feast. The buffalo has traditionally been a symbol of wealth and power - even land could be paid for in buffaloes. The more important the deceased, the more buffaloes must, be sacrificed: one for a commoner, four, eight, 12 or 24 as you move up the social scale. The age and status of the deceased determines the number of animals slaughtered. Large ceremonies, where more than 100 buffaloes are slaughtered, are spoken of with awe for- years afterwards. The type of buffalo is also significant - the most prized is the tedong bonga (spotted buffalo), which may cost many millions of rupiah per head.

These kids had a front row seat.

Baby Graves

Babies that died during child-birth or at a young age are buried in small compartments carved in trees. Overtime the compartments gradually close entombing the baby. A specific tree is selected for this purpose because the sap has the same appearance as milk.

The Graves of Lemo

According to local legend, these graves are for the descendants of a Torajan chief that reigned over the region hundreds of years ago.

A buffalo cools off in a mad pool.

The Londa Burial Caves (6km south of Rantepao)

The Toraja believe that you can take possessions with you in the afterlife, and the dead generally go well equipped to their graves. Since this led to grave plundering, the Toraja started to hide their dead in caves or hew niches out of rock faces.

These caves were hollowed out by specialist cave builders who were traditionally paid in buffaloes, and since the building of a cave would cost several buffaloes, only the rich could afford it. Although the exterior of the cave grave looks small, the interior is large enough to entomb an entire family. The coffins go deep inside the caves, and sitting in balconies on the rock face in front of the caves are the tau tau - life-size, carved wooden effigies of the dead.

Tau tau are carved only for the upper classes; their expense alone rules out their use for poor people. Traditionally, the statues only showed the gender of the person, not the likeness, but now they attempt to imitate the likeness of the person's face. The making of tau tau appears to have been a recent innovation, possibly originating in the late 19th century. The type of wood used reflects the status and wealth of the deceased; nangka (jackfruit) wood is the most expensive. After the deceased has been entombed and the tau tau placed in front of the grave, offerings are placed in the palm of the tau tau. You can see the carvers at work at Londa.

If there are no rocky outcrops or cliff faces to carve a niche in, wooden house graves are created, in which the coffin is placed. Most of the hanging graves, where the wooden coffins are hung from high cliffs, have rotted away. Sometimes the coffins may be placed at the foot of a mountain. Babies who have died before teething are placed in hollowed-out sections of living trees. Examples of these graves can be seen at Pana.

Most tau tau seem to be in a permanent state of disrepair, but in a ceremony after harvest time the bodies are re-wrapped in new material and the clothes of the tau tau replaced. Occasionally left lying around the more obscure cave graves is a duba-duba, a platform in the shape of a traditional house which is used to carry the coffin and body of a nobleman to the grave.

There are many tau tau at Lemo and a few elsewhere, but it's becoming increasingly difficult to see tau tau in Tana Toraia. So many have been stolen that the Toraja now keep many of them in their own homes.

Around Rantepao

Street scene and padi fields on the outskirts of Rantepao.

Manado

North Sulawesi is the most developed region on the island, and probably the most egalitarian in Indonesia; its people have a long history of trade and contact with the outside world. With the Sangir-Talaud island group, North Sulawesi forms a natural bridge to the Philippines, providing a causeway for the movement of peoples and cultures, and as@& result the language and physical features related to the Philippines can be found amor4 the Minahasans.

The three largest distinct groups in the province are the Minahasans, Gorontalese and Sangirese, but there are many more dialects and subgroups. The kingdoms of Bolaang Mongondow, sandwiched between Minahasa and Gorontalo were important political players too.

The Dutch have had a more enduring influence on this isolated northern peninsula than in the archipelago. Dutch is still spoken among the older generation, well-to-do families often send their children to study in the Netherlands.

Below is a picture of the a mini-bus station. Manado had a serious rubbish problem, the stench from uncollected garbage was terrible.

Pulau Bunaken

Bunaken Island is north west of Manado in Northern Sulawesi. Due to the lack of facilities on the island the diving resorts (collection of bungalows) offer full board and lodging.

Picture below is the suicidal boat that ferried locals and budget travelers between the island and the mainland. Safety was not an option.

Tomohon

For an anti-Chinese country Buddhist temple are fairly rare. This one is located in Tomohon, not far from Manado. Tomohon is just a small town sitting on the door step of one big-ass active volcano called Gunung Lokon.

Small Fishing Village

The End of a Long Journey

John and I relaxing in Singapore at Raffles Hotel with a Singapore Sling or two.

Technorati Tags: Indonesia,Tana Toraja,Rantepao,Makassar,Manado

Java

2009-05-10T00:08:00.001-07:00

Around 1996, some friends and I travelled through Java, Indonesia. These are some scanned photographs from that trip.

Wayang Wong

Wayang wong is a traditional Javanese theatre with people mimicking the actions of shadow puppets (or wayang klitik).

Puncak Pass

A woman picking tea leaves on the Puncak Pass.

Borobudur

The amazing and unforgettable Borobudur temple in Yogyakarta, the largest Buddhist temple in the world.

Prambanan

Prambanan is a Hindu temple complex also located in Yogyakarta. Whilst not as large as Borobudur it is equally impressive in architecture.

It is interesting to compare these decade old photographs with recent ones (e.g. 1 & 2).

Technorati Tags: Indonesia,Yogyakarta,Borobudur,Prambanan

Kalimantan

2009-05-09T23:38:00.001-07:00

A small bird shop in Pontianak in the Indonesian providence of Kalimantan.

Technorati Tags: Indonesia,Kalimantan,Pontianak

Sumatra

2009-05-09T23:32:00.001-07:00

These are some more scanned photographs from a trip to Sumatra, Indonesia in 1994.

Bukittinggi

Bukittinggi is a small town in central Sumatra. The region is famous for its curved roofed architecture resembling bulls horns. A style inspired by an ancient legend. The local ethnic people also take their name, Minangkabau (or winning bull), from this legend.

Technorati Tags: Indonesia,Sumatra,Bukittingi

Bali

2009-05-09T00:11:00.001-07:00

These are some scanned photographs from an adventure I undertook late in 1994. My voyage took me through Kalimantan, Java and ultimately to Bali, Indonesia.

Technorati Tags: Kalimantan,Java,Bali,Indonesia

Malaysia

2009-05-08T23:58:00.001-07:00

Below are a few scanned photographs of Malaysia. They were taken in the mid 1990’s.

Batu caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Mulu Caves, Sarawak, Malaysia

Penan Woman, Sarawak, Malaysia

Technorati Tags: Malaysia,Sarawak

Cambodia

2009-05-07T23:55:00.001-07:00

Cambodia is a spectacular country with a tragic history. During my visiting in 2001 I visited the infamous Khmer Rouge prison, Tuol Sleng, and the killing fields at Choeung Ek. Both were very sobering experiences.

The premier attraction in Cambodia is Angkor Wat located near Siem Reap. It is striking in both size and the endless reliefs that adorn the never ending corridor walls. No wonder Cambodian’s placed this structure on their national flag.

When I recall Cambodia I instantly remember the ancient temple ruins in Siem Riep that were engulfed by vegetation. Some of the pictures below have been immortalized in the Tomb Raider movie that were shot shortly before I arrived.

Choeung Ek

Angkor

“Face towers of the Bayonrepresent the king as the Bodhisattva Lokesvara.”
from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angkor

“A bas-relief in a tympanum at Banteay Srei shows Indra releasing the rains in an attempt to extinguish the fire created by Agni.”
from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cambodian_architecture

Angkor Wat

“The bas-relief of the Churning of the Sea of Milk shows Vishnu in the centre, his turtle avatarKurma below, asuras and devas to left and right, and apsaras and Indra above.”
from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angkor_Waht

The Next Generation…

Technorati Tags: Cambodia,Angkor,Angkor Wat

Brunei

2009-05-03T00:22:00.001-07:00

Brunei was my home from 1994 to 1998, I have many fond memories of the people, food and places. Here is a brief look back…

Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque, Bandar Seri Begawan

Downtown Bandar decorated to celebrate the Sultan’s 50th birthday (in 1996).

Mum and I after visiting the Sultan’s palace during Hari Raya.

Kampung Air (Water Village)

Kids playing on the walkway between houses in Kampung Air.

Surveying the jungle in Temburong

Jerudong Park

A Malay Wedding

Bruneian Sunset

Technorati Tags: Brunei,Bandar Seri Begawan,Temburong,Malay Wedding

Myanmar (Burma)

2009-04-30T22:17:00.001-07:00

"Then, a golden mystery upheaval itself on the horizon - a beautiful, winking wonder that blazed in the sun, of a shape that was neither Muslim dome not Hindu temple shone. 'There's the old Shwedagon,' said my companion. The golden done said 'This is Burma, and it will be quite unlike any land you know about'"
Rudyard Kipling, Letters from the East (1898)

In 1999, on the eve of the new millennium I travelled to Myanmar to explore this oppressed but vibrant country. A review of this adventure was originally posted to Yahoo’s Geocities website. Geocities will be shutdown latest this year so I decided to republish the article here. Please feel free to comment on this page if some of the information in this post is incorrect or out-of-date. Enjoy!

Yangon (Rangoon)

Shwedagon Paya

Kipling called it “a golden mystery...a beautiful winking wonder”. As the setting sun casts its last rays on the soft orange dome of the great Shwedagon Paya you can feel the magic in the air. In the heat of the day the stupa glitters bright gold. It can be quiet and contemplative; colorful and raucous. The 'Golden Dagon' is the essence of Myanmar and a place that never fails to enchant.

For Burmese Buddhists, Shwedagon is the most sacred of all Buddhist sites in the country, one which all Burmese hope to visit at least once in their lifetime.

The great golden dome rises 98m above its base. According to legends this stupa - of the solid zedi type - is 2500 years old but archaeologists are nearly unanimous in suggesting the original stupa was built by the Mon sometime between the 6th and 10th centuries. In common with many other ancient zedis in earthquake-prone Myanmar, it has been rebuilt many times and its current form dates back to 1769.

The central zedi is re-gilded every year; by 1985 it had reportedly accumulated 53 metric tonnes of gold leaf.

Telecommunication

A common sight in Yangon and Mandalay, private pay phones which cost about 20 kyat (or US$0.06). Small towns still maintain a manual switchboard.

State Propaganda - "The People's Desire"

The ruling military junta, the State Law and Order Restoration Council (SLORC), not only dominate television, radio and print with propaganda but also the streets... ...this poster reads:

"Oppose those relying on external elements, acting as stooges, holding negative views,

Oppose those trying to jeopardize stability of the state and progress of the nation,

Oppose foreign nations interfering in internal affairs of the state,

Crush all internal and external destructive elements as the common enemy."

Bago (Pegu)

Shwemawdaw Paya

The Shwemawdaw is said to be over 1000 years old and was originally built by the Mon to a height of 23m to enshrine two hairs of the Buddha. Current reaching the height of 114 meters after many renovations and reconstructions due to massive earthquakes in 1912, 1917 and 1930. The picture to the left is shows a portions of the hti that toppled from the stupa in 1917.

Mahazedi Paya

The Mahazedi (or 'Great Stupa') was constructed in 1560 by King Bayinnaung but destroyed in 1757 during the sack of Bago. The current construction was completed in 1982, but more notable is the awesome view from the top of the stupa (that's me in the centre of the photograph). Piercing the surrounding jungle canopy at random intervals are hundreds golden stupas.

Name and location unknown. Sorry, I forgot.

This place was bizarre, a large temple complex residing in the middle of a chocolate colored river. Whilst people waited for water taxis (left hand side of the island) the surrounding water boiled with catfish fighting for meager offerings.

Mandalay

Mingun Paya

The Mingun village is located about 11km up river from Mandalay on the opposite side of the Ayeyarwady river and is only accessible by boat. The ruins of Mingun Paya would have to rate as one of the highlights of my holiday... ...even in its present state it is one huge structure.

Twenty thousand slaves labored to build the massive stupa beginning in 1790. Work halted in 1819 when King Bodawpaya died, leaving a brick base that stands about a third of its intended height.

Although partially destroyed during an earthquake in 1838 is currently stands 50m high with a base measuring 72x72m. If completed it would have stood 150m high.

In 1808 King Bodawpaya had a gigantic bell cast to go with his gigantic zedi. Weight in at 90 tonnes it is claimed to be the largest uncracked bell in the world.

Pictured last is a young girl hawking Burmese cigars (cheroots). With the exception of young women, practical all Myanmar people are chewing betel nut or smoking cigars. Older women tending to prefer the huge cigars as advertised in the photo.

u_beins_bridge

South of Pahtodawgyi, the shallow Taungthaman Lake is crossed by a long and rickety teak bridge. During the dry season the bridge crosses dry land. U Bein was the 'mayor' at the time of the shift from Ava, and he wisely salvaged material from the deserted Ava Palace to build this 1.2 km long footbridge. It has stood the test of time for two centuries and remains the longest teak span in the world.

Street Scene

A typical Myanmar street scene. On the left hand side of the photograph is a parked public bus, normally second hand Toyota Hilux utes from China. During particular claustrophobic journey in the back on these vehicles I counted 35 other passengers.

To the right of the photograph are some novice monks seeking food (or money) for the morning meal.

Beggars

Beggars in Myanmar were surprisingly common. Although generally regarded as lazy most Myanmar people give without hesitation. An interesting quirk to the begging industry in Myanmar were people posing as Monks and Nuns.

These children were seeking donors at an attraction in Mandalay. Like these children most women and young men in Myanmar smear powdered teak wood (or preferably bark) cream on their faces for skin protection and nutrition.

Pyin U Lwin (Maymyo)

During the British annexation of Myanmar, Pyin U Lwin was renamed Maymyo after a British Colonel May, and among many people it is still referred by its colonial name. Pyin U Lwin was long a British hill station where, during the hot season, the servants of the Raj went to escape the heat and dust of the plains.

As a legacy of the influx of South Asians during the British colonial era, Pyin U Lwin township has a large Nepali and Indian ethnic group. Pyin U Lwin has a large sweater-knitting industry, another large but unpublicized occupation is smuggling goods between Myanmar and China along the Burma Road to the north-east.

An unusual quirk of this township are the miniature carriages pulled by ponies (as pictured). To take a ride in one of these pony carts is like a time-warp to the American Wild West.

Inle Lake

Inle Lake is 22 km long, 11 km wide, 1,328 meters above sea level and outrageously picturesque - it has dead calm waters dotted with patches of floating vegetation and busy fishing canoes. High hills rim the lake on both sides; the lakeshore and lake islands bear 17 villages on stilts, mostly inhabited by the Intha people.
The hard-working Intha are famous for propelling their flat-bottomed boats by standing at the stern on one leg and wrapping the other leg around the oar. This strange leg-rowing technique offers relief to the arms - which are also used for rowing - during the long paddles from one end of the lake to another.

The industrious villages inhabiting the lake region support themselves by growing a wide variety of flowers, vegetables and fruit all year round. Many of these crops are cultivated on floating islands, where marsh, soil and water hyacinth have combined to form incredibly fertile solid masses which are staked to the lake bottom with bamboo poles.

Nga Phe Kyaung

This monastery located on Inle Lake has an impressive collection of Buddhist images but the monastery is famed for its jumping cats! Picture is one of the star cats in action jumping through a loop held by one of the monks.

Phaung Daw U Kyaung

One of holiest sites in the Shan State, it is the home of five gold-leaf-covered statues, of which three are said to be Buddha images, while the remaining two are reportedly Arahats or historical disciples or Buddha. The gold leaf on the figures has figures has become so thick that it is hard to tell what the figures represent.

The statues were reportedly fashioned during the rein of King Alaungsithu (1112-1167AD). The gold lumps are so holy that pilgrims rub red strips of cloth against them, then tie the cloth strips to their bikes, cars and trucks to create protective spiritual force-fields around themselves and their vehicles.

Fateful Journey...

Two thirds along the fifteen hour bus journey from Inle Lake to Nyaung U (near Bagan) the bus broke down in the middle of nowhere. It was early afternoon when the bus driver and conductor left the bus to fetch a replacement part from the next township. The driver never returned!

Most passengers were already fast asleep sacrificing their bodies to the mosquitoes when I abandoned the bus on the back of a truck to Kyauk Padaung. The hotel manager in the Kyauk Padaung had to seek special dispensation to allow me to stay (<US$1/night) as none of the hotels in the township had a license for foreigners.

At any stop during a long bus journey (either intentional or not) people swarm around and inside the bus offering many types of eatable (hygiene optional) treats. At the lunch stop pictured to the left, women are offering oranges, roast chicken pieces, fried prawn fritters, cured goat meat (or other bits?) and crackers.

Mount Popa

One advantage of the forced detour to Kyauk Padaung (see above) was the close vicinity to Mount Popa which would otherwise be a full day trip from Bagan. Whilst the temple complex is nothing extraordinary the sight of it atop a huge vertical column of rock is amazing. The bizarre natural formation, which is more impressive from a distance, is considered the abode of Myanmar's most powerful nats and as such is the most important nat worship centre. At the base of the rocky outcrop there is a display of mannequin-like figures representing the 37 nats.

Bagan (Pagan)

Bagan is the most amazing sight in Myanmar, if no South East Asia. Across 40 sq km of country, stretching back from the Ayeyarwady, stand literally thousands of stupas and temples. In every direction you look you will see ruins of all sizes - huge and glorious temples like the Ananda soar towards the sky, small, graceful zedis stand alone in fields. Some come with all manner of historical tales, while others are identified only in a number.

The extraordinary religious fervor that resulted in this unique collection of buildings lasted two and a half centuries. Although humans habitation at Bagan dates back almost to the beginning of the Christian era, Bagan only entered its golden period with the conquest of Thation in 1057 AD. Just over 200 years later, Bagan declined and in 1287 was overrun by the Mongols of Kublai Khan. But what fantastic effort went into those two and a half centuries - it is as if all the mediaeval cathedrals of Europe had been built in one small area, and then deserted, barely touched over the centuries.

Bagan's prime began with the Burman King Anawrahta's ascent to the throne in 1044. At the time, Myanmar was in a period of transition from Hindu and Mahayana Buddhist beliefs to the Theravada Buddhist beliefs that have since been characteristic of Myanmar. Manuha, the Mon king of Thaton, sent a monk to convert Anawrahta; latter met with such success that Anawrahta asked Manuha to give him a number of sacred texts and important relics. Manuha uncertain of the depths of Anawrahta's beliefs, refused the request. Anawrahta's reply to this snub was straightforward - he marched his army south, conquered Thaton and carted back to Bagan everything worth carrying, including 32 sets of the Tripitaka (the classic Buddhist scriptures), the city's monks and scholars and, for good measure, King Manuha himself. All in all some 30,000 Mon prisoners of war were brought to Bagan from Thaton.

Marco Polo described the city state of Bagan in hi famous 1298 chronicle:

"The towers are built of fine stone; and then one of them has been covered with gold a good finger in thickness, so that the tower looks as if it were all of solid gold; and the other is covered with silver in like manner so that it seems to be all of solid silver... ...The King caused these towers to be erected to commemorate his magnificence and for the good of his soul; and really they do form one of the finest sights in the world, so exquisitely finished are they, so splendid and costly. And when they are lighted up by the sun they shine most brilliantly and are visible from a vast distance."

This picture was taken at the Bupaya stupa situated on the banks of the Ayeyarwady and is reputed to be the oldest in Bagam (~850AD) and in my opinion the ugliest. These two gentlemen are monks from Mandalay who's English was worst than my Burmese.
Socially, every Burmese male is expected to take up temporary monastic residence twice in his life: once as a samanera or novice monk between the ages of 5 and 15 and again as a fully ordained monk or pongyi sometime after age 20. Almost all men or boys under 20 years of age participate in the shinpyu or novitiation ceremony - quite a common event since a family earns great merit when one of its sons takes robe and bowl. A samanera adheres to 10 precepts or vows, which include the usual prohibitions against stealing, lying, killing, intoxication and sexual involvement, along with ones forbidding: eating after noon; listening to music or dancing; wearing jewelry, garlands or perfume; sleeping on high beds; and accepting money for personal use. A novice usually lasts a week or two - nine days is an auspicious number.

Later in life a male should spend three months as a pongyi at a monastery during the Buddhist Lent (Waso) which begins in July and coincides with the rainy season. For many men the post-rice harvest, hot-season hiatus between January and April is a more convenient time. Some men spend as little as three to nine days to accrue merit as monks. Others may enter the monkhood yet a third time, since three is considered an especially lucky number.

Mruak U (Myphaung)

Once a centre for one of Myanmar's most powerful kingdoms, Mrauk U straddles the banks of Aungdat Chaung, a tributary of the Kaladan River, 72 km from the coast.
The Rakhine King Minzawmun founded Mrauk U in 1433 and in the next century it became a free port that traded with the Middle East, Asia, Holland, Portugal and Spain; elephant were one of the main commodities supplied from the Rakhine region. A Dutchman who visited Mrauk U in the 16th century described it as one of the richest cities in Asia, and compared it with Amsterdam and London in size and prosperity.

The Mrauk U dynasty, which lasted 352 years, was much feared by the peoples of the Indian subcontinent and central Myanmar. Mrauk U kings even hired Japanese samurai as bodyguards against assassination. At Mrauk U's peak King Minbin (1531-53) created a naval fleet of 10,000 war boats that dominated the Bay of Bengal and Gulf of Martaban.

Pictured to the left is the impressive Dukkanthein at sunset. Dukkanthein, said to have been constructed by order of King Minphalaung in 1571, loosely translates to 'ordination hall that spiritually reinforces the town'. The cloisters are lined with 146 Buddha niches along with sandstone reliefs depicting 64 different types of hairstyles for the wives of Mrauk U nobility.

Laymyetnha

Yadanapon Paya & Andaw Paya

Yadanapon Paya (left) is the largest stupa in the area but was heavily damaged during WW II bombing.

Andaw Paya (right) was originally constructed by King Minhlaraza in 1521. King Minrazagi then rebuilt Andaw in 1596 to enshrine a piece of the tooth relic supposedly brought from Sri Lanka by King Minbin in the early 16th century.

Stupa Reconstruction

Many of the restoration and reconstruction projects in Myanmar (primarily Bagan and Mrauk U) are funded by UNESCO. There is some suspicion that the military pockets most (if not all) of the entrance fees requested from foreign tourist to enter Myanmar's archaeological sites.

Shittaung, Laymyetnha & Dukkanthein

View from the top of the crumbled ruins of Parahia. At the top-centre of the photograph is most complex and well-preserved of the surviving Mrauk U temples, Shittaung. And on the right hand side are the temples of Laymyetnha and Dukkanthein.

Shittaung was built in 1535 by King Minbin, the most powerful of the Rakhine kings. The name means 'Shine of the 80,000 images', a reference to the number of holy images found inside. A maze-like floor plan - which vaguely resembles a square-cornered pinwheel - suggests the shrine was originally used for Tantric-like initiation rituals. Though much smaller in size, Shittaung shares many architectural similarities with Indonesia's Borobudur.

Water Carriers

Young women returning home after fetching water from a well located near the old temples. Unlike the rest of Myanmar that use clay pots or rectangular oil tins, Mrauk U residents prefer to use aluminum pots imported from India.

Wethali

Just under 10 km north of Mrauk U are the remains of the Wethali kingdom. According to Rakhine chronicles, Wethali was founded in 327 AD by King Mahataing Chandra, Archaeologists believe that this kingdom lasted until the 8th century. The only remains of the ancient city are parts of the city wall and moat and the pictured structure which used to be the palace prayer hall.

From the hilltop on the edge of Mrauk U township two stupa are bathed in the light of sunset.

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Welcome!

2009-04-30T20:48:00.000-07:00

Welcome to A Kiwi's Journey, a blog with some interesting and thought provoking posts. Enjoy!