a degree a day

A very sunny weekend in Tirana

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Mon, 22 Oct 2012 11:53:00 +0000

All my preconceived ideas of Tirana have been proven wrong, but I guess part of it, a big part even, may be because of the spectacularly good weather we have been enjoying since we arrived here on Thursday.
The sun is shinning over the dreary old Communist buildings or over the even more scary colourful post-communist buildings.

All buildings are painted like different ice cream flavours - pistachio

The empty Pyramid - falling in disrepair

When the Communist system fall at the end of last century people here decided that they were over the grey igualitik buildings, but they went a bit OTT and some buildings have not stand that well the pass of time, specially some of the colours, everything is a bit like Alice in Wonderland

Kruja Castle, Albania

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Sun, 21 Oct 2012 09:52:00 +0000

During the last few months people has given me funny looks or have just laughed at my face when I have mentioned that I was going on holidays to Albania. At times, if I am completely honest I did wonder if going to Tirana was just that bit too much off the beaten track and that I was going to get bored senseless, argued with my friends or get robed.

Landing in Tirana everyone seem to be proven right, there was a long queue to let all foreigners in and only two bad tempered guards which had decided that stamping your passport was well below their station, I even had to go back to get mine stamped. I have had problems trying to leave countries when I had not been stamped properly.

However, from that moment on the trip has been a complete treat, amazing views, friendly people and stunning blue skies. We have spent the day visiting Kruja castle which has been fortified since ancient times, and seems to be dedicated to the memory of Skanderbeg, the local hero / king. To me he looks more like a viking tall and broad that a local Albanian, who are very friendly but short and round.

Wasabi and a lot umbrellas in Andinos Bogota with some social commentary

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Sat, 06 Oct 2012 08:55:00 +0000

When I started writing this blog, during my long trip around the world,, 360 days, 360 degrees, I got to know a lot of the markets, this time around I am getting to see a mixture, and the life of those that have, as oppose to the have nots.

Having Sushi on a trendy restaurant near Andinos

Talking with the team in Colombia we all agreed that life for the middle and upper classes is nice and easy in Colombia. For a sector of the middle class life is probably easier here that in the UK.

'Art' with the Andinos Shopping Area

However, below that life is very hard, poverty is still rampant and even in chic and elegant spots as the Andinos shopping area you get glimpses, like the passing of a cart, pulled by squalid horse, as they collect some scrap metal or cans to recycle.

Going to Down to Hell in Bogota or a Mojito in Andres

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Tue, 02 Oct 2012 18:38:00 +0000

A little Mojito, or what I like to call a Tapa

In the lower stages, Infierno = Hell

I had been before here, during my first visit to Bogota with work, but this time I felt much more comfortable., I guess it makes a big difference knowing the people you are with and actually wanting to be there.
Andres is a strange theme bar, on several floors it is based around the Catholic after life Hell, Heaven and even the intermediate stage the Purgatory.

That is one Big Bib for a Big Messy Boy

You get huge mojitos, huge bibs for those like me that have a tendency to get messy. There is a surreal element that I loved all colourful, a bit like Alice in Wonderland.

Bogota on a sunny afternoon

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:59:00 +0000

For my second week around South America I ended up in Bogota, which for once was not grey and wet.
Despite being so close to the Ecuator temperature in Bogota is always around 22, or so it has it felt to me every single day I have been here. As the city stands so high up, +2000 metres above sea level and close to the Andes it has always been cloudy and wet. In the past I have wondered why people settled here and not in Medellin, which is always at 25 to 30 degrees.
However, this time the weather has been on my side, and the sun keeps shinning through the clouds.

Bogota Main Square ( Double Click on Pic )

I have spent a lovely day going around the city, enjoying the free museums, and the sun, that I am surely going to miss back in London. And this Sunday the city was mostly closed to traffic, which makes it a nightmare to get in, but very enjoyable once you are in, or if like me you are happy to take the Transmilenium, their Bendy Bus system.

The Kuna Yala Islands or San Blas Islands

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Thu, 27 Sep 2012 04:25:00 +0000

The more time I spend in Panama the more I am liking this country and the chance that I am getting on this work trip to do something else beyond the malls and spreadsheets.

The Kuna people live in three semi autonomous reservations in Panama and in a few villages in Colombia, and in some communities in Panama City, Colon, the Free Trade Zone in Panama, but the largest number live in Kuna Yala Islands or San Blas, a group of small islands off Panama in the Caribbean side.

So on Saturday early morning we took off and we drove 3 hours from Panama City, partly by motorway, main roads and dirt tracks. At 7 AM we reach the border of the reservation, where a small queue had formed, just in time for it to open.
The reservation is a world of lush greenery,of palms on an impossible on an impossible angle over pristine aquamarine sea which allows you think of Pirates of the Caribbean, but as every legend it has its dark side, the ever so young women with little babies.
Nonetheless the Kuna proudly remember when in 1925 they stood against Panama and successfully managed to gain a degree of autonomy.
Poverty mixes with pride.

And how can you not be proud of this beautiful mix of sea and land, where I even saw dolphins jumping in front of our boat
As I emailed a friend from a boat in the middle off the Caribbean I could not help to wonder are we feeling more and more lonely the closer we get,

The Canal

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Tue, 25 Sep 2012 13:59:00 +0000

About to turn 100 the Canal is one of the heights of human ingenuity and courage, that started back when the Spaniards first arrived in South America. They didn't only killed millions of Indians, forcibly converted them to Christianity and steal the resources. From the beginning they look at how they could cut short the route to Cipango and Asia.

I think he was not that impress by human ingenuity

However, it was not until 1914 that the Americans built the Canal, and in 1999 the Panamanians took it back, and despite all the doom and gloom that some people expected they have managed to operate it successfully and now expanding it.
The Canal helps the fight against climate change by dramatically cutting distances and the new expansion that will be finished in a couple of years will increase the size of the ships that can use it, cutting further emissions.

Miraflores locks, the first set from the Pacific

Cerro Ancon or the Beauty of Panama

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Sat, 22 Sep 2012 01:48:00 +0000

Since I finished my year backpacking I have been worried about how close I am staying to the idea of traveling while I am writing from the Marriot,even if that is the Marrriot Courtyard. And today I came to realized that who cares. Travel opens the mind, by showing me the beauty the world has, and how much it has to offer.

The Mothercare Team by the Octopus

Some random pic

And a lot of this beauty has been man made, and today I saw a bit of both, I went up Cerro Ancon, and I saw the beauty of the jungle and then I saw the beauty of the Canal.

The American Bridge above the Canal

Gleddis and Tai sweating up the Cerro

Back on the road, but before that I would like to say

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Wed, 19 Sep 2012 23:45:00 +0000

I am glad to be back on the road, three weeks travelling through South America. I know it is not the same than a year back packing, and I know that I am travelling with work. Nonetheless it gives me enough time to soak on life on the other side of the world. More importantly, it gives me time to remember how good life is, and how sadly sometimes I just forget that.

In the last month I kept feeling how I was letting myself down.

I watched the Paralympics, the superhumans, and I kept wondering what was I complaining about, what has life not given me. A challenge to overcome is to lose your arms and legs, to lose your sight. To be a child and lose your leg, not today when is trendy to be disable, but years ago, those are mountains to overcome, and so they did, and did us all proud

So from Panama I feel happy and in a great mood

A dream crashes to the ground

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Wed, 27 Jun 2012 14:41:00 +0000

For all the times people have spoken about crises and have made it sound like Armagedon, this time it does feel like it.
I am in Galicia for a few days, visiting my family, friends and spending a few days sun bathing. I have never seen a country so beaten, so utterly hopeless. The only thing they do is wonder how bad the next piece of news is going to be.
I am starting to believe that is not the economics, not the corruption, not the utter stupidity of this country that will bring it to its knees, but the feeling of defeat that has taken over its people, of despair.
How can you go for applying to the G8 to where they are today, neither positions right....it is just anothr Almodovar movie, just drama, drama

The sun is shinning in Madrid

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Thu, 10 May 2012 14:13:00 +0000

It has been a long winter and after a full month in the UK I have managed to get myself out of London and down to Madrid, even if it is just for two days I am delighted to be away from the grey and damp London.
I think the most depressing thing is that London is always beautiful at this time of the year, the trees have blosom and London is just full of life.
Sadly this is year is not meant to be

We seem to have brought the good weather with us, because Madrid, as London has been grey and awful, but a bit Sahara heat and the skies are now clear.

I am most impressed with this pic....it looks like an infinity pool....just a bit of glass

Madrid Gets Ready to Strike

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Wed, 28 Mar 2012 20:32:00 +0000

Sunset in Madrid

I am in Madrid at the moment, coinciding with the General Strike.
Until very recently the view, based in the results of the General election was that the country was ready to accept the austery measures and dismantling the welfare state.

I am not sure, based in the results in Andalusia and Asturias last weekend this really stands.

Tomorrow we will know what is the support, will the country show how displeased it is with the measures taken so far or will fear stop people from striking. Fear of losing your job in a country with 25% unemployment.

Leaving Providdencia, Leaving Paradise

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Sat, 24 Mar 2012 18:55:00 +0000

After our last spot of diving, which was frightening, when I got high on nitrogen and felt I was flying and found my self 55 metres below the surface and amazing at the same, at least the second immersion which was very shallow, leaving Providencia is painful.
The people here are truly hospitable, the place is gorgeous and the sea is just a bliss.
It looks like I will be back

The Divine Child of Providence‏ ( El nino divino )

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Fri, 23 Mar 2012 21:22:00 +0000

We thought it would be a good idea to go and have some seafood before leaving Providence. So after two dives and feeling enough hunger to eat a horse, not something I would say to one of my fellow divers who owns two, we walked towards South West Beach.

The long, almost deserted, beach has white sand and palms trees that seem placed there to be phtographed. The mangroves just behind do give the water a slightly muddy look, but only for a couple of metres. Look further into the sea and water is crystal clear and inviting.

The Divine Child is one of the three beach huts along the white sand, unmissiable with a Baby Jesus at its front, well more like a toddler.

Thankfully I didn't let this put me off as the mixed platter was truly amazing, fish, crab, half a lobster, rice, platain all for less than 9 quid.

Old Providence, not Oil Providence, it is good to have hope

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Thu, 22 Mar 2012 22:11:00 +0000

Although when you read the news it feels all doom and for every piece of feel good news there are ten of men's greed, of environmental degradation, it is good to hear that sometimes things happen as they should.

Two years ago the Colombian Government and a foreign oil exploration company wanted to drill in the reef off the coast of Providencia but a local campaign was started to stop the drilling. I am sure the prospects were not that great, otherwise oil may have prevailed, but the noise the locals made put an end to the drilling.

The locals feared a spill would destroy the reef, rightly so, and take away their main source of income. It was capitalism at its best. Although people may care for Nature they care more for their stomachs and where the money is going to come from to feed their kids.

Night diving in Providencia

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Tue, 20 Mar 2012 21:29:00 +0000

After a year and a half not diving, I thought I was going to take it easy at first, however, nothing ever happens as planned and I did not do one, nor two, but three dives on the same day, finishing with a night dive.

Diving has the very rare ability to relax you whilst at the same time getting your heart pumping with adrenaline.

The excitement of descending into the depths mixes with the beauty of nature, the colours of the corals and its fish, and brings inner calm and peace.

I am surprised at the good state of the coral around here, by the diversity of the fish. While other areas of the Caribbean have suffered from over fishing, and climate change has led to coral bleaching, here the colours are intense and big and small fish mix.

This has been my favourite ship wreck dive so far, probably because the water is much calmer and you get to see more, including a large nurse shark.

Preparing for the night drive

Providencia, that little dot in the Caribbean‏

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 21:14:00 +0000

Sometimes, when stupidity and back stabbing at work goes beyond what I am used to I keep thinking that I should leave. But then I come to places like this, Providencia in Colombia and it all melts away like ice does these days in the Arctic.

Obviously I am not here for work but work has allowed me to extend my trip to Colombia for an extra week and I have come to dive in this little piece of paradise. We are closer to Nicaragua than Colombia and I am not sure why this bit of land belongs to Bogota.

Like in the Bay Islands in Honduras people here speak creole, that mix of languages including African languages from those taken as slaves.

It is nice and warm here but not too hot, and the water is a pure delight, the hues of blue are mesmerising. Yet nothing can be compared to diving but I leave that for tomorrow.

Not the Menu I Wish for Anyone

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Sat, 17 Mar 2012 22:39:00 +0000

I love this place, the country, its people, but for all their new found wealth, poverty is still rampant.
The malls for the middle and upper classes are full, the mood of retailers is buoyant, everyone wants to come and get a piece. River Island, Oasis, Karen Millen all want to be here. However, out in the streets there are people, and not a handful, picking their food from the rubbish the others dump in the street.
If crime is so in the minds of those that have got something to lose, would it not be easier to create a fairer society, where those that nowadays have nothing feel they are part of

Yes Minister

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Fri, 16 Mar 2012 21:25:00 +0000

I guess not every day I get to attend an oficial opening for a store with a UK Minister, from the Foreign Office. We have just had our official opening of one of the stores in Medellin, attended by the quite dishy, and nice deep voice, Jeremy Browne. He is a Lib Dem and Minister for South America, quite and quite handsome though he needs to do something about his teeth.

Fear in Colombia and coke stories

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Fri, 16 Mar 2012 00:04:00 +0000

Sometimes you can´t help but to be overtaken by stupid fears and worries, based on stories you have heard.
I am currently in Medellin, Colombia, and after smoking a fag and offering a lighter to a stranger that started talking to me, I walked back to the lobby of my hotel.
Out of my pocket a little bag falls off, with some off white crumbs.
I felt like all blood was drained away from my face.
I looked around and picked up the bag quickly and looked around waiting for someone to approach me and take me away, stories from my backpacking days.

Once I recovered my cool and looked at the bag, I realised it was nothing more than the crumbs from some wafer we had bought earlier.

Nonetheless by then I had almost wet my pants.

The rain in Bogota

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Wed, 14 Mar 2012 19:21:00 +0000

There is something really nice about Bogota and its people. Although, like in Chile, the country is seeing an unparalleled level of growth, you still get the feeling of being in a sleepy town that takes its time to wake up.
I keep wondering why so few English or Galician have migrated here, it's grey and wet, I feel like I am at home

Marco Polo airport and the last bits of sunshine

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 14:14:00 +0000

As I head back to London and it's below freezing temperature you really come to appreciate the open air terrace of Marco Polo airport. Sadly this is only available to priority customers, as if you are not a frequent traveller you don't need it.
Thank you Mothercare for giving me enough miles.

The vampires of Venice

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 10:50:00 +0000

My friends and I in San Marco

As I walk around I just keep wondering what drives people to dress up like this. It is not the need to hide something, because what people actually want is to be photographed the more pictures the better.

Jacqui looking stunning

Dressing down

Before coming to Venice I thought people dress up to hide something, but I guess this is more an opportunity for something to come out. Here, the shy become camera hungry and behind the mask and new person comes out feeding on the flashes and the admiration of those that pass by. It is the socially acceptable side of what drag queens talk about, the need to be admired or talked about.

My first impressions of Venice, with a little Martini

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Sun, 19 Feb 2012 16:43:00 +0000

I am not sure what I was expecting from Venice, but whatever it was it has surpassed all my expectations.

The city mixes grandeur with decadence in a way that no other place I have visited before seems to achieve, and if you then throw in the Carnival the mixture is intoxicating.

The water taxi takes you from the airport to the town across a labyrinth of small canals on a sunny but bitterly cold day with the wind cutting our faces.

Venice makes you think of times long gone by, of the Dangerous Liaisons, of the Death Plague, of Cardinal Richeliau, and every other historic novel you have ever read. You can fancy yourself on a duel over one of the small bridges, being the intrepid musketeer, or you could be in the League of Extraordinary Gentlemen…I better not have any more Martini Rosso

Next: Venice and the Carnival

noreply@blogger.com (Roberto) — Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:41:00 +0000

I got back to the UK in the middle of a cold snap, my tan fall off me as I walked out of the Heathrow Express, still on my check shorts!!!!

I can't wait for my next trip, only one week away, I am going to Venice for the Carnival.

I am so excited.